PLANT SPECIES IN LANDSCAPING

Annuals
As their name implies, annuals are plants that complete their life cycle
in only one season. Typically used to add seasonal color to flowerbeds
and planters, these prolific bloomers die back after flowering.
Removing spent blooms will stimulate annuals to produce more showy
flowers. Common annuals are marigold, vinca, begonia, coleus, zinnia,
impatiens, petunia, nasturtium and pentas. But climate plays a big role
in determining an annual plant's lifecycle — some varieties of daisies,
geranium, lantana, mandevilla, pansies and verbena are perennials in
warm climates.
Biennials
Much less common than annuals and perennials, biennials live for two
years, producing foliage the first year and flowers the next. Flowering
biennials include hollyhocks, foxglove, dianthus and Canterbury bells.
Most biennials are actually vegetables — beets, Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, collards, endive, kale,
kohlrabi, leeks, onions, parsley, parsnip and rutabaga — that produce
food the first year but don't complete their growing cycle and drop
seed till the second.
Perennials
Technically defined as a plant that lives for more than two years,
perennials are the backbone of any landscape with colorful annuals
providing variety. Depending on your climate, some perennials may
keep their leaves through the winter but most drop them and die back
to the ground to return again in the spring. Popular perennials include:
clematis, some types of daisies, hardy ferns, hellebore, hibiscus,
hostas, lavender, some ornamental grasses, peonies, periwinkle,
phlox, roses, salvia, sedum, violets and yarrow.

Bulbs
One of the easiest plants to grow, bulbs provide plenty of show-
stopping color year after year for very little effort. Best of all, bulbs
self-propogate meaning they multiply and spread to quickly fill a small
bed with blooms. Tulips and daffodils are the most widely known bulbs
leading many people to associate bulbs with spring but many varieties
of lillies, including canna, Asiatic and Oriental, bloom during the heat
of summer. A few other plant types are often mistaken for true bulbs
because they grow the same way. For example, bearded iris is a
rhizome, crocus and gladiolus are corms, and dahlias and elephant's
ear are tubers.

Grasses, Rushes and Sedges

Although we typically loosely refer to grasses, rushes and sedges as
ornamental grasses, they actually belong to different plant families
and have varying sun and moisture needs. The easiest way to
differentiate them is the shape of the stems: grass stems are typically
round or hollow while sedge stems are usually triangular and rush
stems are generally round or flat. As for care, grasses (like pampas
grass, shown here) prefer a full-sun location with well-drained soil
while sedges are best suited to shady, damp locations and rushes like
it wettest of all — they're typically found growing at water's edge.
Tropicals
With a warm year-round climate and abundant rainfall, it's no wonder
that the tropics are home to some of the world's most stunning plants.
It's also no wonder that those of us who live in less tropical climes
want to incorporate these exotics into our landscapes — but often the
harsh reality is that many tropical plants aren't hardy beyond USDA
Zone 8. Container gardening is always a safe bet, you can overwinter
the potted plant indoors then return it to your landscape once the last
threat of freeze has passed.
Evergreens
Defined as plants that retain their leaves year-round, evergreens add a
bright spot of color to a winter landscape. Conifers, like pine, spruce,
cedar and fir are what typically come to mind when we think of
evergreens but magnolia, hollies and eucalyptus trees are also
evergreens. Dependent on your planting zone, many blooming shrubs,
like laurels, azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias and gardenias, retain
their leaves year-round making them great foundation plants.
Deciduous
We can thank deciduous trees and shrubs for the kaleidoscope of
orange, red and golden leaves we enjoy each fall. Unlike evergreens
that retain their leaves, deciduous plants shed them each year before
entering a dormant period in winter, then grow a new canopy of leaves
in spring.

Aquatic Plants
If a pond or water garden is part of your landscape, aquatic plants are
worth considering not only for their beauty but also for the role they
play in purifying and oxygenating the water while providing a shady
habitat for resident fish, like koi. Although we're most familiar with
water lilies, there are hundreds of aquatic plants — some float on the
water's surface, like lotus and water hyacinth, while others are
entirely submerged, rooted to the pond's bottom, or grow along the
water's edge like cattails, reeds and rushes.
Vines
The acrobats of the plant world, climbing plants take your garden to
new heights when supported by a trellis, arbor, wall or fence. Although
a few vines, like morning glory and nasturtium, are annuals, most are
perennials, coming back year after year to completely cover their
supporting structure with blooms, fruit or leaves. Thanks to the variety
of colors available, clematis is a popular climber. Other good choices
are bougainvillea, blackberry, gloriosa lily, honeysuckle, jasmine,
mandevilla, trumpet vine and native wisteria.
Groundcovers
If your yard includes a steep bank or bare patches under trees where
grass refuses to grow, planting a hardy groundcover could be just the
solution to your landscaping woes. These low growers creep along the
ground quickly forming a dense mat that's resistant to weeds. With so
many varieties to choose from, the key is matching the plant to its
location, either sun or shade. For sunny areas, good choices are
creeping phlox, goldmoss sedum, ice plant, plumbago, creeping juniper
and lemon thyme. For shade, try periwinkle, euonymus wintercreeper
or English ivy.
Cacti and Succulents
Thanks to a sophisticated method for storing water in their roots,
stems and leaves, succulents (which includes cacti) have managed to
thrive in the most inhospitable environments. This toughness also
makes them incredibly easy to maintain and ideal for desert
landscapes. The increasing popularity of xeriscaping, or landscaping
that reduces or eliminates the need for irrigation, has brought
attention back to these water-saving plants — but their habitat needs
(sandy, loose soil, infrequent rain and year-round warm temperatures)
limit their use to mainly the Southwest. The most popular exception is
the prickly pear cactus which has been known to survive as far north
as Canada.
Shrubs
Compact and dense, shrubs can be either evergreen, like boxwood,
holly, barberry and azaleas or deciduous, like lilacs, viburnum,
forsythia and spirea. Their small stature make shrubs the perfect
choice for foundation planting around your home but shrubs are also
ideal for adding color to hedges and borders or anchoring garden beds.
Almost all shrubs will benefit from an occasional trim to help them
keep their shape and promote new growth — but always wait until the
shrub has finished flowering for the season.
Deciduous
Contrary to evergreens, deciduous plants shed their leaves every fall to prepare themselves for
winter and therefore spring to come. A new canopy is grown every spring which later prepares to
shed. Some of the examples are oak, birch, and maple.
Bulbs
One of the easiest plants to grow – the bulbs serves the purpose of aesthetics and is effortless and
fast-growing. Once the bulbs start to grow, they spread themselves around the bed they are
placed on. Also if you want a vibrant and colourful garden, bulbs are a good
option. Tulips and Daffodils are the most common types used.
Groundcovers
Groundcovers could be an interesting typology to use. If the garden seems bare on the ground or
underneath the trees, along the perimeter or even to smudge the change in landscaping edges, or
walkways to the gardens, groundcovers play an active role. If the garden is steep or the bed is
unlevelled due to topography, groundcovers could be used to level it up. Some of the
groundcovers used are Creeping phlox, Myrtle, and Japanese Pachysandra.

AESTHETIC CHARACTERISTICS OF
PLANTS
FORM
Form is the three-dimensional shape of a plant or a plant mass. Overall form is more or less
relevant depending on the viewing perspective; for example, the form of a tree can appear quite
different when the viewer is standing under the canopy than it does when the viewer is standing
in an open field. Plant forms can be divided into three groups—trees, shrubs, and groundcover.
Trees are distinguished by their large size, their trunks, and their canopy. Shrubs are typically
medium sized and are characterized by a mass of foliage covering the branches. Groundcover is
the smallest in size and varies greatly in form, but the distinguishing characteristic is the way the
plants are used—to cover the ground—hence the term "groundcover."

TREE FORMS
Tree forms are often dominant in the garden because of their size. Trees are also the most
functional plants in the landscape, providing shade and blocking views, so when choosing a tree
form, consider function first. Creating a shady area in the garden requires a round or oval tree,
while a screen usually requires a more columnar or pyramidal form, and a weeping tree form
makes a good focal point. It is also important to ensure the tree will not outgrow the space and
require severe pruning. Choose the tree for its mature size and shape in relation to the space.
Common tree forms include vase, columnar, round, weeping, and pyramidal

SHRUB FORMS

Shrubs have a variety of forms, so it is important to consider how shrubs will look when massed
together. Mounding and spreading shrubs look best in a mass, while cascading and spiky forms
work well for individual specimen plants. Shrub forms include arching, irregular, cascading,
upright, spiky, rounded, mounding, and vase shaped (Figure 2). The form of the shrub
determines its most suitable function. Upright, vase, mounded, and round forms work best as
taller screens and buffers; irregular and spreading forms work well as groundcovers; and arching,
cascading, pyramidal, and spiky forms work best as focal points.
GROUNDCOVER FORMS

Groundcover or bedding plants tend to have the most complex forms, but they typically look
better in masses because they are often small and have little impact as individual plants. Masses
of groundcover plants usually lose individual form and look like one plant, so it's important to
consider how plants will look as a mass. Groundcover forms include clumping, matting,
sprawling, short spikes, and spreading (Figure 3). Matting, spreading, or sprawling plants are
used to form a solid, low cover over large areas. Plants that grow in clumps or short spikes can
be used in smaller masses and work well in planters or enclosed areas.
TEXTURE
Texture refers to how coarse or fine the overall surface and individual leaves of the plant feel or
look (perceived visual texture). Like form, a variety of textures provides interest and contrast in
the landscape. Texture can be found in the foliage, flowers, blades, and bark of the plant, as well
as in the plant's overall branching pattern. The size and shape of the leaves most often determines
the perceived texture of the plant. A plant can generally be described as having a coarse,
medium, or fine texture (Figure 7). Coarse texture is more dominant than fine and tends to stand
out individually, while fine texture is more subordinate and tends to unify compositions.
COARSE TEXTURE

Plant characteristics that create coarse texture include thick twigs and branches; leaves and twigs
with spines or thorns; large leaves; leaves with very irregular edges and/or bold, deep veins;
variegated colors; and bold or irregular forms (Figure 8). With their high contrast, coarse-
textured plants attract the eye and tend to hold it because the light and dark contrasts of the
shadows provide more interest. Each leaf of a coarse-textured plant breaks up the outline, giving
the plant a looser form. Examples of plants with coarse texture include philodendron, agave,
bromeliad, holly, palm, and hydrangea.

MEDIUM TEXTURE

Medium-textured plants have foliage and branches that are neither overly large nor small and
delicate; most plants fall in this category. They are characterized by medium-sized leaves with
simple shapes and smooth edges. The average-sized branches are not densely spaced nor widely
spaced, and the overall form is typically rounded or mounding. Medium-textured plants act as a
background to link and unify the coarse- and fine-textured plants. Plants with medium texture
include agapanthus, camellia, euonymus, pittosporum, and viburnum.
FINE TEXTURE

Characteristics that create fine texture include small, delicate foliage; thin, strappy leaves
(grasses); tall, thin stems; small, fragile twigs with many branches; narrow trunks; long stems
(vines); and small, delicate flowers. They are often described as wispy and light or with a
sprawling, vining form. Fine-textured plants can sometimes have a stronger form because the
small individual leaves are densely packed (e.g., boxwoods) to create a solid form. Plants with a
fine texture include grasses, ferns (Figure 10), Japanese maples, vines, and junipers with fine
needles.
PROPERTIES OF TEXTURE

Coarse textures have high visual weight, and fine textures have low visual weight. Figures 1 and
2 show the contrast between a visually dominant landscape with all coarse texture and a less
visually strong landscape with all fine texture.
SIZE
Size refers to the overall height and width of the plant and its relative size or scale when
compared to other plants, structures, and spaces in the yard. Plants are most often sized by
height. Large plants are trees and shrubs that grow 4–6 ft. or higher at mature size. Medium
plants, typically shrubs, range from 2–4 ft. in height. Small plants, typically groundcover and
bedding plants, are 2 ft. tall or shorter. Plant size is closely related to form. Columnar, pyramidal,
and upright plants are narrow and occupy less horizontal space, while sprawling, arching, and
mounding plants tend to use less vertical space. Locations that require consideration of size
include overhead utility lines, underground water and electrical (no large trees), building height,
windows and doors, and architectural features, such as arbors and archways. Spaces that require
size consideration include planters, plant beds, and containers, particularly next to the walkway
and house.
CHOOSING PLANT COMBINATIONS
Before choosing plants, consider your design theme and the types of plants that are characteristic
of the theme. The theme will help identify the feel that you want in the space. For example, a
tropical theme might have more extroverts—bold, coarse, and energetic plants—while a
contemplation garden might have many more introverts—quiet, calm plants. A composition of
plant material works the same way a painting composition works. Features are arranged to create
a dominant area that is the focal point, and the rest of the composition serves as the background.

When choosing plants for the composition, consider form and size first, then texture, and finally
color. Consider the space where the plant will be located and note the following: size of the
space, color of the walls and hardscape, texture of the hardscape, and surrounding views. Always
remember to consider the size of the plants at maturity and provide ample space for growth.

REFERENCES
Austin, R. 2002. Elements of planting design. New York: John Wiley & Sons.
Bertauski, T. 2005. Designing the landscape: An introductory guide for the landscape
designer. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall.

Thomas, H., and S. Wooster. 2008. The complete planting design course: Plans and styles
for every garden. London: Octopus Publishing Group.

Scarfone, S. 2007. Professional planting design: An architectural and horticultural

approach for creating mixed bed plantings. New York: John Wiley & Sons.