Geography Sba (Unit 1 Cape)

SCHOOL-BASED ASSESSMENT.
GEOGRAPHY.
● CANDIDATE NAMES: Sajanaa Bhagwat
Raeon Benjamin
Hailyy Brachalalsingh
Milton Downes
Jaydan Brathwaite
● TITLE OF PROJECT: The Influence of Wave Characteristics on Beach Profile.
● SUBJECT: Geography.
● YEAR OF EXAMINATION: 2024.
● TEACHER’S NAME: Ms. Mellissa Mathura.

● TERRITORY: Trinidad.
● TABLE OF CONTENTS:
CONTENTS PAGE
Statements of Purpose of Investigation 1
location of field study. 2

Methodology. 3
presentation of data. 4
Analysis of data
conclusion.
recommendations
bibliography.
● STATEMENT OF PURPOSE OF INVESTIGATION:
The aim of this secondary based assessment is to analyze the influence of wave characteristics
such as height and frequency in relation to the beach profile of Las Cuevas Bay, Northeast Coast,
Trinidad utilizing data collection, map sketching and diagrams.

● METHODOLOGY:
On Friday the 10th of November 2023 at 10:00 AM the students of lower 6 Geography visited
Las Cuevas Bay located on the North-East Coast of Trinidad.
Photographs were taken and a sketch map was made of the beach. The coastal landforms and
features seen were observed and sketched as well as the weather conditions and tide level of that
given day. A compass was used to determine the wind direction on the beach.
To calculate longshore drift, two stakes were placed ten meters apart on the beach shore,
located in the swash zone and a tennis ball was thrown far into the ocean before the waves were
to break, parallel to stake 1. A timer was set and the time taken for the ball to reach the second
stake was recorded. This process was repeated a total of three times and an average was found.
Wave frequency was calculated using an tennis ball in the water and the number of waves that
passed that object over a period of one minute was recorded. This reading was taken twice more,
and an average was calculated of the three recordings.
Wave height was calculated near the shore by placing a ranging pole into the water ensuring
that it touched the seabed. When waves passed, the crest height and trough height were measured
using the ranging pole. The difference between the crest and trough height indicated the wave
height. This process was repeated three times and an average was calculated.
Information of the beach profile was obtained with the use of a line transect. Stakes were
placed at 1-meter intervals starting from the cliff until the swash zone was reached. Beginning
from stake one named “T0” at each interval, the twine was placed between the stakes and using a
level, the line was made even. The height of the twine at both stakes was measured using a
measuring tape and this process of leveling and measuring was repeated until the swash zone
was met. This procedure was repeated at two other locations along the beach, spanning east and
west of the beach profile.
At each of the transect sites, sand samples were taken from the backshore, foreshore and
swash zone. A total of nine samples were taken from the three sites. at each site, the length of the
swash zone, foreshore and backshore was measured to obtain the beach width. The shape and
size of the sand from each section at the three sites was observed and recorded.
The same samples were separated into individual bins and dried. 100 grams of each sand
sample was measured and sifted through sieves of different sizes. Each sample was weighed
according to its size and classified using the Wentworth scale.
PRESENTATION OF DATA:
FIGURE 1 SHOWING BAR GRAGH OF BEACH WIDTH

FIGURE 2 SHOWING LINE TRANSECT
FIGURE 3 SHOWING LONGSHORE DRIFT
FIGURE 4 SHOWING WAVE FREQUENCY
READINGS(m) AVERAGE(m)
per minute
1 2 3 21/7=3
7 6 8
FIGURE 5 SHOWING WAVE HEIGHT
READINGS(m) AVERAGE (m)

Per minute
1 2 3 0.3+0.4+0.5=0.4
1.1-0.8=0.3 1.35-0.95=0.4 1.65-1.15=0.5
● ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION OF DATA
Figure 1 presents a bar graph illustrating the width of the beach in meters, with a specific focus
on three distinct areas: the backshore, which is the upper part above the high tide mark; the
foreshore, the intertidal zone between high and low tide marks; and the swash shore, influenced
directly by wave action. The graph also highlights sample areas where sand was collected for the
research.
Figure 2 displays measurements taken along a line transect on the beach. In a line transect,
researchers walk in a straight line and note observations or measurements at predetermined
intervals. This method helps gather information about the features or conditions present along the
defined path on the beach.
The bar graph in Figure three shows the data of longshore drift for an average of three times. The
longshore drift is caused by the northeast trade winds blowing across the surface of the sea at an
angle parallel to the shore. This zigzag movement allows for sediment to be transported onto the
shore. When waves retreat, they leave at a different angle pulling sediment back into the sea. The
data took an average time of over 300 seconds. This extended period suggests that the backwash
is strong hence the reason why it took such a long period.
Figure 4 shows the wave frequency at the 3 different sites. The location of this research is at a
bay. This would suggest that there is wave refraction happening. Wave energy is therefore
concentrated at the headlands and dispersed in the bays. (Bleasdell #281). As a result of the north
east trade winds, there are high energy waves that are responsible for eroding the headlands. The
wave frequencies recorded were all under 10 per minute having six, seven and eight waves. This
low frequency of waves shows that the waves are dominantly constructive and have
characteristics such as weak backwash and strong swash. These factors lead to the development
of the flat sandy beach of Las Cuevas.
Figure five shows the wave height recorded at Las Cuevas Bay. There is very little energy being
released at the bay of the coastline as a result of the headlands present absorbing the majority of
the high energy waves. All the wave heights recorded at the coastline are under one meter in
height and therefore constructive. The average wave height of 0.4 meters at the time of study
shows that there is more deposition occurring at the coastline. The low wave height causes
sediment to be deposited onto the beach and build the beach profile.

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SCHOOL-BASED ASSESSMENT.

● TITLE OF PROJECT: The Influence of Wave Characteristics on Beach Profile.

● YEAR OF EXAMINATION: 2024.

● TEACHER’S NAME: Ms. Mellissa Mathura.

Statements of Purpose of Investigation 1

location of field study. 2

Trinidad utilizing data collection, map sketching and diagrams.

FIGURE 1 SHOWING BAR GRAGH OF BEACH WIDTH

FIGURE 4 SHOWING WAVE FREQUENCY

READINGS(m) AVERAGE (m)

researchers walk in a straight line and note observations or measurements at predetermined

defined path on the beach.

is strong hence the reason why it took such a long period.

of the flat sandy beach of Las Cuevas.

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