Understanding and Sourcing

UNIT 2 CONCEPTS AND PRINCIPLES OF of Fabrics

TEXTILE FIBRES

Structure
2.0 Introduction
2.1 Objectives
2.2 Concepts and Principles of Fibres
2.2.1 Textile Fibre
2.3 Classification of Textile Fibres
2.3.1 Natural Fibres
2.3.2 Man Made Fibres
2.4 Classification of Textile Fibres Based on the Length
2.5 Properties of Fibres
2.5.1 Primary Properties
2.5.2 Secondary Properties
2.6 Identification of Textile Fibres
2.7 Technical Test
2.8 Fibre Blending
2.9 Miscellaneous Fibres
2.10 Let Us Sum Up
2.11 Check Your Progress – The Key

2.0 INTRODUCTION
This unit is part of the second block of Course III on Introduction to Fashion
Industry. The first block aims at creating an understanding of the fashion industry.
As a first step in this direction, this Unit focuses on creating a broad understanding
of textile fibres without which there cannot be any fashion industry. Although,
until the dawn of the 20th century garments were made only with the help of
natural fibres, a large variety of natural and man-made fibres have been added
since then. The last section deals with the properties of specific types of fibres.

2.1 OBJECTIVES
After studying this Unit, you would be able to:
define a textile fibre
classify textile fibres according to their length and origin
state the essential characteristics of all textile fibres
list the methods used for identifying different types of textile fibres
differentiate between different textile fibres based on their properties

2.2 CONCEPTS AND PRINCIPLES OF FIBRES

Fibres are the starting point for garments. Although the textile industry uses
several methods and processes to improve or modify the fibres, their basic 25
Understanding of Fashion properties go a long way in determining how the fabric and garment makers can
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make use of these. Just as we cannot cook food without having a good idea of
the properties of the ingredients, we cannot make a quality garment without
understanding how different fibres behave during their conversion into fabrics
and garments. Since the fashion industry invariably procures fabrics from the
mills, processors or traders, it becomes necessary also to know their classification
based on fibre content for communicating with them clearly and correctly.

2.2.1 Textile Fibre

Fibre is what the fabrics are made of and textile fibres are distinguished by their
suitability for conversion into fabrics. Textile fibres are microscopic hair like
substances with comparatively high ratio of length to width that helps in spinning
them into yarns or bonding them together for creating fabrics directly. In spinning,
fibres are twisted together lengthwise for producing a continuous strand called
yarn. Apart from having several hundred times of length in relation to its length,
the textile fibres need also to be strong enough to withstand the mechanical
actions of spinning, weaving, knitting, etc. Other properties like elasticity,
fineness, uniformity, durability, lustre, and crimp are also necessary for improving
the quality of yarns, fabrics and garments.

2.3 CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES

Textiles can be classified based on its origin, length and also by its thermoplastic
properties. Based on their sources, textile fibres are broadly classified into natural
and man-made or manufactured fibres. There are also several sub categories
under each as explained below:

2.3.1 Natural Fibres

Natural fibres are classified, according to their origin, into the following three
groups:

Vegetable fibres: These fibres are derived from plant or vegetable sources such
as stalk, stem, leaf, or seed pods, and include cotton, linen, jute, flax, ramie, coir,
sisal and hemp.

Animal fibres: Fibres sourced from animals are also known as protein-based
fibres. They are harvested from animals or removed from cocoons or webs and
include silk, hair, fur, wool, feathers, etc.

Mineral fibres: These fibres are mined from the earth. The asbestos fibre for
example, found its use in textile because of its acid, fire and rust resistance.
However. It is being phased out because of its suspected carcinogenic effect.

2.3.2 Man Made Fibres

Man Made Fibres are artificial fibres manufactured using chemical or
metallurgical technologies and fall into the following categories:

Regenerated Fibres: These fibres are produced using a natural source as a base
and using a chemical process for generating the filament. Examples include
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viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, acetate rayon, rubber fibres, etc. Some of Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
the recent additions to this include Lyocell and Tencel.

Synthetic Fibres: These are manufactured using only chemical processes and
use petroleum, natural gas and coal as the raw materials. These raw materials are
converted into substances capable of forming fibres. The petrochemical industry
is the main source of fibres in this category with coal and natural gas also
contributing a bit. Nylons, polyesters, acrylics and polypropylene are examples
of synthetic fibres. Elastomeric fibre such as Spandex and Lycra are recent
additions to this list.

2.4 CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES

BASED ON THE LENGTH
Based on their length, fibres are classified into Staple Fibres and Filaments.
Staple Fibres: Any fibre with a limited or finite length is called “Staple Fibre”
and include fibres like cotton, wool, jute etc. These natural fibres may be a short
staple fibre having a maximum length of 60 mm or a long staple fibre having
lengths between 60 to 150 mm. Staple fibres are measured in inches or centimetres.
Staple fibres must be spun or twisted together to make a long continuous strand
of yarn. They may also be used in their staple form to produce non-woven or
felted fabrics. Staple fibres are usually natural fibres, although synthetic fibres
can be cut into short lengths for the purpose of blending with natural staple
fibres or used on their own to produce yarns with a natural feel.

Filaments: All fibres having unlimited or infinite lengths are called filaments.
Filaments are measured in yards or meters. Silk is a natural filament, which is
reeled from cocoons. Man-made fibres nylon, polyester etc. are also filaments
by forcing liquid raw materials through spinnerets and then hardened to produce
continuous filament strands of a determined length. Regular filament yarns are
smooth and silk-like as they come out of the spinneret. Their lustre, however,
depends on the amount of de-lustering agent used in the spinning solution and
the amount of twist in the yarn. Filament yarns have no protruding ends and
therefore, do not shed lint or pill. The compactness can be a disadvantage where
bulk and absorbency are necessary for comfort. Filament fibre is usually stronger
than staple.

We can also classified third category by thermoplasticity. You can discuss this
category during counselling sessions with the counsellor.

Check Your Progress 1

Note: a) Space is given below for writing your answer
b) Compare your answer given at the end of the Unit
1) State whether the following statements are true or false
1) Linen is an animal fibre (True/False)
2) Examples of natural fibres are polyester and nylon (True/False)
3) Cotton is a cellulosic fibre (True/False)
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Understanding of Fashion
Industry 4) Nylon is a filament (True / False)
5) Spandex is a protein fibre (True / False)
6) All man-made fibres are short length fibres. (True / False)
7) Fibres of long length produce smoother fabric. (True / False)
2) What are the examples of vegetable fibres ?
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3) What are man-made fibres ?
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4) Give examples of staple fibres
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2.5 PROPERTIES OF FIBRES

A fibre must possess some essential characteristics for use in textiles. High length
to width ratio, strength, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness or spinnability and
uniformity are some of the essential primary properties of textile fibres.

Secondary properties of textile fibres are desirable but not essential and they
include physical shape, lustre, density or specific gravity, absorbency, electrical
conductivity, elasticity, elastic recovery, pilling, hand, thermal behaviour, the
resistance to biological organisms, chemicals and other environmental conditions.
These properties may advantageous or disadvantageous in specific conditions

2.5.1 Primary Properties

High length to width Ratio: A textile fibre must possess greater length of at
least 100 times its width. The cross-sectional area of the fibre must be smaller
28 than the length of the fibre. Majority of the natural fibres used in the textile
industry have greater length than the diameter. Length to Width Ratio of Some Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
common fibres is as follows:

Fibre Length to width ratio

Cotton 1400

Wool 8000

Linen 170

Silk 330000

Strength:The strength of the textile fibres must be adequate for spinning these
into a yarn as well as making and processing fabrics. The strength of a fibre may
not be uniform throughout. It depends upon the molecular structure of fibres.
The strength of a fibre is defined as the ability to resist stress. Fibre tenacity may
also vary from 1 gm/denier in acetate to 8 gm/denier in glass. A strong fibre is
durable, has a better tear strength and resists sagging and pilling. Glass ranks
first in tenacity. Nylon and Polyester come next. Some of the fibres such as
rayon also lose strength when wet.

Flexibility or pliability: It is also one of the primary requirements of textile

fibres. A textile fibre needs to be bendable. This property is essential to create
yarns and fabrics that can be creased; to increase the drapability of fabrics.
Flexibility and pliability are also important to allow the body to move comfortably.

Cohesiveness or spinnability: Cohesiveness is the quality of the fibres to adhere

together during spinning. It may result from the longitudinal contour, cross
sectional shape or the structure of the surface/skin of individual fibres. For
example, wool possesses scales on the outer skin of the fibre which help in
interlocking fibres while spinning. If the surface or shape of a fibre does not
contribute to cohesiveness, filament yarns may be added for introducing
cohesiveness. Since filaments run along the full length of the yarns, there is little
necessity of individual fibre’s ability to stick to each other. Polyester has the
lowest cohesiveness but it can be made into staple yarns by adding a small
percentage of cotton and later burning it through carbonising process.

Uniformity:Uniformity in the length, width, cohesiveness and flexibility of fibres

is required for producing fine yarns. All man-made and synthetic fibres are uniform
since they are made through artificially controlled processing. Natural fibres,
except silk, however, are not uniform. It is not possible to produce very fine
yarns from natural fibres without doing additional processing.

2.5.1 Secondary Properties

Physical Shape: The physical shape of the fibre accounts for many of its
properties such as the surface contour (smooth, rough, serrated), the shape of the
cross section and the width and length of the fibre. The shape of the cross section
influences certain factors such as lustre, body and hand. The surface contour
influences cohesiveness, resiliency, loft and thickness. It determines the level of
resistance to abrasion, pilling, absorbency and warmth. The cross sectional shape
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Understanding of Fashion can be changed for all artificial fibres, unlike natural fibres, by controlling how
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these are moulded though spinnerets.

Lustre: Lustre is more subdued than shine since lustre is generated by breaking
up the light rays into many short rays while the shine results from the reflection
of the light without breaking it. The smoothness, length, and shape of the fibres
determine the natural brightness or dullness of the fibres. Among the natural
fibres, silk has high lustre while cotton is the dullest. All man-made fibres are
produced with lustre control processes as it is not always desirable to produce
bright fabrics. The lustre of man-made fibre is controlled by the addition of
pigments such as titanium dioxide in spinning solution. The lustre of natural and
man-made fibres can also be improved by various finishing techniques. For
example, the lustre in cotton is improved by mercerization.

Absorbency: Absorbency in the ability of fibres to take in or regain moisture

and is measured as a percentage of the weight of the bone-dry fibre under the
standard conditions of temperature and moisture. Fibres that absorb water easily
are known as hydrophilic (water loving). For example, natural protein and
vegetable fibres as well as rayon and acetate fibres are hydrophilic. Fibres that
have difficulty in absorbing water are known as hydrophobic fibres. Most of the
synthetic fibres are hydrophobic in nature. The absorbency factor of glass fibre
is ‘0’. Absorbency is an important factor for garments as it influences many
other properties such as comfort, warmth, water repellency, static build up,
dyeability, shrinkage, wrinkle resistance etc. It is easy to wash a hydrophobic
fabric as it does not absorb stains and it dries quickly.

Elasticity: Elasticity is the ability of fibres to return back to original shape after
being stretched and is expressed in percentage. If a fibre returns to its original
length after being stretched, it is said to have 100% elastic recovery. Elasticity is
required to cope with the stress that fabrics experience because of the body
movements of the wearer. This property depends on the side chains and cross
linkages among the molecules of the fibre. If strong bonds are present among
molecular chains, the fibre tends to return to its original length. If the bonds are
not strong enough to recover, wrinkles and creases are formed. Some fibres show
immediate elastic recovery and some others may have delayed elastic recovery.
For example, wool, silk, viscose and nylon have good elasticity. Cotton and
acetates have poor elastic recovery. Polyester has moderate elongation but has
good elastic recovery.

Electrical Conductivity: It is the ability of a fibre to transfer or carry electrical

charges. Poor or low conductivity results in building up of static charges. This
leads to the clinging of clothing and in extreme cases can produce electrical
shocks. Water is an excellent conductor of electricity and fibres with high moisture
regains will never face the problem static build-up. Synthetics are poor conductors
of water and therefore, face the problem of static charge build-up. Antistatic
finishes are given to fabrics in order to inhibit the piling up of static electricity
on fabrics.

Abrasion Resistance: It is the ability of fibres to withstand the rubbing or

abrasion. This is an important property, as it influences the durability of the
fabrics. If fabrics do not tolerate rubbing, they would get damaged easily and
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become unsightly. Abrasion resistance may be due to the tough outer layer or the Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
flexible molecular chains of the fibre. The size of the yarn also influences the
abrasion resistance. Thick yarns resist abrasion more than thin yarns. Yarn
uniformity is also important as irregular yarns are abraded more easily than
uniform yarns. Nylon has excellent resistance while acetate and glass have very
poor abrasion resistance as compared to silk, wool and cotton.

Resiliency: Resiliency is the ability of a fibre to bounce back to shape following

compression, bending or similar deformation. Wool and silk fabrics are more
resilient. They can be deformed, crushed or wrinkled during wear but they come
to shape upon hanging.

Thermal Properties: The thermal behaviour of fibres is also an important factor

for determining their performance and care. Among the textile fibres which are
in use, some are heat sensitive and some are not. Heat sensitivity is the ability to
soften, melt or shrink when subjected to heat. All synthetic and acetate are heat
sensitive thermoplastic fibres. Fibres that are not heat sensitive are known as
non-thermoplastic fibres. The heat sensitivity of a fibre may be due to the vibration
of molecules in the fibre upon heating. Fabrics made from heat sensitive fibres
need to be finished after washing, at safe, lower and recommended temperatures.
Heat conductivity is the ability of fibres to conduct away heat from the body.
This is also an important factor since it makes different fabrics suitable for different
seasons.

Chemical Properties: Chemical reactivity is the effect of acids, alkalies,

oxidizing agents and solvents on fibres. Acid or alkali is harmful for cellulose
and protein fibres. Therefore, the effect of acid and alkali must be known during
bleaching, dyeing and finishing. Different fibres react differently with acid and
alkali. For example, cotton and linen get damaged when they are subjected to
hydrochloric, sulphuric and nitric acids. On the other hand, alkaline solution is
not harmful to cotton and linen. Acids or alkalies must be chosen properly for
use in different types of processing.

Biological and Other Properties: Biological and other properties such as ageing
resistance, sunlight resistance, resistance to moths, mildew and microorganisms
play an important role in determining the performance of fabrics in use and care.

Sensitivity to Environmental Conditions: Behaviour of a fibre on exposure to

sunlight and air pollution are also important in their use and care. Protein fibres
have low resistance to sunlight. Glass, acrylic and polyester fibres can withstand
sunlight. Acetate fibres get discoloured by air pollution.

Check Your Progress 2

Note: a) Space is given below for writing your answer
b) Compare your answer given at the end of the Unit
5) List the various primary properties of textile fibres.
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Understanding of Fashion
Industry 6) Differentiate between primary and secondary properties of textile fibres.
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7) Why is strength considered a primary property of textile fibres?
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8) Define cohesiveness.
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9) Give example of hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibres.
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10) Why is elasticity important in a textile fibre?
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11) What is heat conductivity in a textile fibre?
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 Concepts and Principles of
2.6 IDENTIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES Textile Firbers

Both non-technical and technical tests are available for the identification of fibres.
Non-technical Tests: Non-technical testing does not require any special
equipment and are simple to perform and include the following:

Feeling Test: Skilled perception of feeling the fabrics by touching them is acquired
only after handling many different fabrics over a period of time. The feeling
effect is created by the heat conducting property of the fibres and fabrics. For
example, wool fabrics will feel warm when touched because the heat generated
by wool, which is a non-conductor of heat, will remain in the touched area itself.
The following list provides fibre specific information about the experience of
feeling by touching:
Cotton: – Cool to touch, feel soft and inelastic.
Linen: – Cool to touch, feels smooth and lathery.
Jute: – Cool to touch, feels smooth and leathery.
Silk: – Warm to touch, feels elastic and smooth.
Wool: – Warm to touch, feels elastic and springy.
Rayon: – Cool to touch, feels smooth, inelastic and lustrous.
Acetate Rayon: – Warm to touch, feels smoother more elastic and resilient
then rayon.
Nylon: – Feels very smooth, light weight elastic and lustrous.
Polyester:-Feels very smooth and stiffer.
Acrylic: – Feels of wool, but light weight and slippery feeling.
Burning Test: The fibres are chemically different and therefore show different
burning characteristics which can be used to identify them. The burning test is a
relatively simple test but it requires a keen observation of what happens at different
stages such as: (a) when approaching the flame, (b) propagation of flame (d) the
smell emitted, (e) colour of the smoke and (f) the residue after the burning. The
burning test is more efficient than the feeling test but it also has its limitations.
For example, fabrics made of bi-constituent fibres, that are combination of two
different textile polymers, cannot be identified with this test.

Cellulosic Fibres (Cotton/Linen/Hemp/Rayon/Bamboo): Ignites and burns

quickly, may flare, leaves a glowing ember after flame is extinguished. Smoke is
white or light coloured and smells like burnt paper or leaves. Ash is light grey or
white and very soft.

Protein Fibres (Silk/Wool, Cashmere, Alpaca, etc.): Burns slowly and shrinks
or curls away from the flame. Will not stay lit after flame is removed. Very little
smoke is produced but it smells like burnt hair (wool) or feathers (silk). Ash is a
gritty powder or a dark brittle, easily crushable bead.

Synthetic Fibres (Acetate Rayon /Polyester/Acrylic): Ignites and burns quickly

and can continue to burn after a flame is removed. Fibre may shrink from the
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Understanding of Fashion flame, melt, and can drip leaving a hard plastic-like bead. Burning these fabrics
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will produce black smoke and hazardous fumes. Nylon smells like plastic when
burnt but can also can produce a celery-like smell; Acrylics burn with a strong,
acrid, chemical smell. Polyester smells slightly sweet, also with a chemical odour.

2.7 TECHNICAL TESTS

Technical tests require laboratory equipment and are reliable than the non-
technical tests. These require skilled personnel to handle the equipment and
chemicals as well for recording the results accurately. Technical tests include the
following:

Microscopic test: In Microscopic tests, the fibre is cut in the perpendicular

direction and a thin cross-section and examined under the microscope up to a
minimum of 100 magnifying power and observing the longitudinal and cross
section of the fibre. The shape of the cross-section and the macroscopic features
help in identifying some fibres, particularly natural fibres.
Fibre Longitudinal View Cross Section
Cotton Mature cotton looks like a flat, twisted, Mature cotton has bean or kidney
ribbon or a collapsed twisted tube. A large shaped cross section, and a small
number of convolutions are usually found. lumen. Mercerised cotton looks
Mercerised mature cotton is almost almost round to oval, a small
cylindrical in shapes and has very few point at or near the centre
convolutions. representing the lumen.
Linen Smooth and Bamboo like with cross The cell wall appears thick and
marking nodes, no lengthwise striations, polygonal in shape.
narrow lumen
Jute Cylindrical with uneven in diameter, a Rounded polygonal with a
lumen is broad and varies greatly central lumen
Wool Cylindrical, irregular, rough surface, Nearly round or circular,
scale-like structure. medulla may appear
Silk Smooth surface, Structureless, triangular Triangular shape with rounded
shaped transparent rod corners.
Viscose Normal type fairly dense longitudinal Irregular with a serrated
Rayon striations or fine lines. Special type-may outline, Oval or round
be smooth and Structure less
Cellulose Uniform in width with a few Irregular with a serrated outline
Acetate distinct longitudinal striations
Acrylic Smooth surface, uniform diameter, rod- Rounded or Dumbbell shaped
like appearance, some types with
irregularly spaced striations
Nylon Structureless, uniform diameter, rod-like Circular, trilobal
appearance
Polyester Structureless, uniform diameter, Circular
rod-like appearance

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8) Chemical Tests: Different types of chemical tests help establish the identity Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
of the fibres used. These tests give accurate and precise analysis and include
the following:

1) Stain Test: Also known as the Double Barrel Fibre Identification (DBFI),
the test is based on the theory that each fibre has its own distinct two-
colour reaction when treated with stain. A fibre will turn into a particular
colour in the presence of diluted acetic acid and to some other specific
colour when stained in the presence of a mild alkali.

2) Solvent Test: It involves treating the fibres in certain solvents for identifying
them. The fibre is placed in a chemical, at a particular temperature and the
solubility will confirm the type of fibre.
1) Wool and Silk :- sodium hypo-chlorite ( 5% chlorine, 250c)
2) Silk :- cold 70% sulphuric acid
3) Cellulosic Fibre :- 75% sulphuric acid at 250c
4) Viscose Fibre :- sodium zincates
5) Acetate, Triacetate Rayon: – acetic acid/250c or cold acetone.
6) Nylon 6 and nylon 66:- HCl at 250c or formic acid at 250 c.
7) Acrylic: – DMF at cold/ ammonium thiocyante (70% at boil).
8) Only Nylon6 :- DMF at boil
9) Polyester: – METACRESOL AT 950C / chloro-phenol at boil.

Check Your Progress 3

Note: a) Space is given below for writing your answer
b) Compare your answer given at the end of the Unit
12) List the stages of observations in Burning test.
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13) List the limitations of burning test.
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Understanding of Fashion
Industry 14) Describe the burning behaviour of protein fibres..
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15) Describe the microscopic structure of wool and Cotton.
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16) List the various chemical tests.
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2.8 FIBRE BLENDING

Blending is the combining of different fibres together intimately to achieve a
desired set of product characteristics. Blending can influence colouring, strength,
softness, absorbency, ease of washing, resistance to wrinkling, ease of spinning,
cost, etc. The basic objective of blending is to give the end-product certain
characteristics which are unobtainable from a single fibre component, such as
strength, crease resistance, aesthetic effects, price, etc.

Reasons of Blending
1) To improve performance: One of the main objectives of blending is to
produce fibres that perform better. Blending helps in compensating the
weakness of one fibre with the strength of others. for blending fibres is to
produce better performance. For example polyester when blended with
cotton acquires moderate absorbancy which is almost amost absent in pure
polyester fibres and fabrics..
To improve the texture: Hand or feel and appearance of fabrics is
important for the wearers of garments. For example, blending of wool
fibres with polyester produce suiting materials with a better appearance
and feel. Viscose, when blended with cotton, improves it’s lustre and
36 softness and thereby enhancing the appearance of the blended fabric.
 To reduce the cost: The cost of a very expensive fabrics can often be Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
reduced by blending the costly fibres with another cheap fibre. For
example, expensive wool is blended with cheaper polyester to reduce
the cost.
To produce cross-dyed effects: Fibres with unlike dye affinity are
combined and dyed together so that it produces interesting cross dye
effects as one fibre takes up the colour while the other retains its original
colour.
To improve the spinning, weaving and finishing efficiency: For
example, the spinning efficiency of polyester is improved by blending
it with cotton to produce spun yarns.
Examples of Blended Fabrics
1) Terry Cotton: Fabrics of various blend ratios are available in the market
today. A blend of 65% polyester and 35% cotton is common. A blend of 65/
35 polyester and cotton produces a fabric for daily wear. 50/50 blend
produces softer and more absorbent fabric. Polyester, when blended with
cotton, contributes more strength wrinkle resistance and shape retention.
Cotton produces comfort as it provides absorbency and heat conduction.

2) Terry-wool Suiting Fabrics: The excellent shape retention of polyester is

the foremost contribution to worsted fabrics which show poor shape
retention. Polyester provides excellent wrinkle resistance and crease
retention that contributes to shaping retention whether wet or dry. Depending
on the blend ratio, polyester increases the strength of wool fabrics. Wool
provides warmth resiliency, drapability, and absorbency depending on the
blend ratio. Blends of polyester and wool are available in ranges from 65%
polyester and 35%, which will be suitable to produce a light weight, all
season suiting. For medium worsteds 60/40 blend is suitable. When more
warmth is required 50/50 blends should be opted.

3) Polyester Viscose Rayon: The blend of polyester with viscose contributes

durability, resiliency and shape retention. The wet strength of the resultant
fabric is also improved, viscose provides absorbency, soft texture, and variety
of colour. A blend of polyester and viscose generally ranges from 65% of
polyester and 35% viscose to 55/45, 45/55, 48/52 respectively. Among these
blend levels, 48/52 and 65/35 are commonly used for school uniforms and
suiting materials.

4) Cotton Silk Blend: By blending cotton and silk together, the resultant fabric
is one with a soft, delicate lustre but one that is more durable than silk
alone. This blend is created as the two fibres are spun together to make a
combined yarn, so the cotton may have the silk twisted on to it.

Check Your Progress 4

Note: a) Space is given below for writing your answer
b) Compare your answer given at the end of the Unit
1) State whether the statements are true or false
37
Understanding of Fashion
Industry 1) Cotton has good absorbency. (T/F)
2) Linen is a good conductor of heat. (T/F)
3) Bleaching agents have no effect on wool. (T/F)
4) Rayon is the first man-made fibres made from cellulose. (T/F)
5) Polyester has good resistance for degradation by sunlight. (T/F)
6) Cotton cannot be blended with manmade fibres (T/ F)
18) Fill in the Blanks:
1) Lycra is a synthetic fibre known for its exceptional ______________
(Elasticity/ Absorbancy)
2) Nylon fabrics have _____________ resistance to sun light (High/
Low)
3) Lustre of Manmade fibres can be modified by adding
______________ (Delusterant/Oxygen)
4) Acrylic is a substitute for ___________ (Polyester/ wool)
5) Tensile strength of _____________ is less when wet. (Cotton/
Rayon)
6) _____________is the weakest of all natural fibres (Jute/ wool)
7) The silk fibre consists of 80% of _______________, a natural
protein. (Fibroin/ sericin)
8) Linen is made of cellulose fibres inside of the ___________of the
flax plant. (Stalk/ Pod)
9) Cotton disintegrates while in contact with ______________ (Acid/
Alkali)

2.9 MISCELLANEOUS FIBRES

These are inorganic fibres made from substances such as metal or glass. Gold
and silver threads have been used in textile fabrics and garments for long but
their usage is shrinking because of high costs. Glass fibres are obtained from
silica. However, these are used more in furnishings and industrial applications
than in apparel making

2.10 LET US SUM UP

This unit attempted to give you summary view of the vast world of fibres. What
we learnt first was that fibre is the starting point of textiles. We also learnt that
not all types of fibres were useful for the textile industry. We, therefore, looked
at the specific factors that made fibres suitable for fabric making. We followed it
up by classifying fibres based on their sources and fibre lengths. We then studied
all the generic properties of fibres, which the textile industry made use of for
creating yarns and fabrics with distinctly different properties. We looked at both
the primary and secondary properties of textile fibres.

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The focus of the unit the shifted to the challenge of identifying the fibres based Concepts and Principles of
Textile Firbers
on tests. We first learned about the simple and technical tests such as touch and
feel as well as the burning tests, which can help us to identify different kinds of
textile fibres. We also learned that the touch and feel test required experience
and the burning tests needed meticulous observations.

In the last part we delved deep into the details of the distinct characteristics of
both natural and man-made fibres. We identified a large variety of properties
such as strength, fineness, durability, elasticity, resilience and absorbency as well
as effects light, chemicals, microorganisms on different fibres. Towards the end
we were introduced to the concept of blending which aimed at creating better
performing yarns and fabrics by combining the advantageous properties of one
or more fibres.

The study of fibres is indeed a vast subject and this Unit provided an introduction
that should help you to learn more on the subject and keep yourself regularly
updated about the latest developments in this field.

2.11 CHECK YOUR PROGRESS: THE KEY

1) State whether the following statements are true or false
1) False. Linen is a vegetable fibre
2) False. Polyester and Nylon are synthetic fibres.
3) True
4) True
5) False. Spandex is a synthetic fibre
6) False. All man-made fibres are Filaments.
7) True
2) Cotton, Linen, Jute
3) Man Made Fibres are artificial fibres manufactured using chemical or
metallurgical technologies
4) Cotton, Linen, Wool
5) High length to width ratio, strength, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness
or spinnability and uniformity.
6) Primary properties are the essential properties that a fibre must possess in
order to be used as a textile fibre. They include strength, cohesiveness etc.
Secondary properties are desirable properties but are not essential. They
include lustre, absorbency etc.
7) The strength of the textile fibres must be adequate for spinning these into a
yarn as well as making and processing fabrics.
8) Cohesiveness is the quality of the fibres to adhere together during yarn
making process.
9) Hydrophobic fibres – Nylon, Polyester. Hydrophilic fibres – Cotton, rayon
10) If a fibre returns to its original length after being stretched, it is said to have
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Understanding of Fashion 100% elastic recovery. Elasticity is required to cope with the stress that
Industry
fabrics experience because of the body movements of the wearer.
11) Heat conductivity is the ability of fibres to conduct away heat from the
body. This is also an important factor since it makes different fabrics suitable
for different seasons.
12) The burning test requires a keen observation of how a textile fibre reacts
when (a) approaching the flame, (b) the burning behaviour inside the flame,
(c) during removal from the flame, (d) the smell emitted, (e) colour of the
smoke and (f) the residue after the burning.
13) Burning test is a non-technical test. Therefore, the results may not be
confirmatory. Moreover, fabrics made of bi-constituent fibres, that are
combination of two different textile polymers, cannot be identified with
this test.
14) Protein Fibres (Silk/Wool, Cashmere, Alpaca, etc.) burn slowly and shrinks
or curls away from the flame. Will not stay lit after flame is removed. Very
little smoke is produced but it smells like burnt hair (wool) or feathers
(silk). Ash is a gritty powder or a dark brittle, easily crushable bead.
15) Under the microscope, Cotton fibre looks like a flat, twisted, ribbon or a
collapsed twisted tube with a bean or kidney shaped cross section, and a
small lumen. Wool fibre has a cylindrical, irregular, rough surface, scale-
like longitudinal structure and a circular cross section.
16) Stain test, Solubility test.
17) State whether the statements are true or false
1) True
2) True
3) False. Strong bleaching agents like hypochlorite have effect on wool.
4) True
5) True
6) False. Cotton/ polyester blend is an example of a very common blend.
18) Fill in the Blanks:
1) Elasticity
2) Low
3) Delusterant
4) Wool
5) Rayon
6) Wool
7) Fibroin
8) Stalk
9) Acid

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