STYLE NO.

PU_PJS_1218

BACK
Style A and B

FRONT Style A: High waisted FRONT Style B: Low waisted

Phoebe Jumpsuit
High or low-waisted jumpsuit designed to be personalized and
hacked to create your own style.
Pattern complexity

1
 MEASUREMENTS

phoebe
SIZE 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Bust: cm 83 88 93 98 103 108 113 118

inches 32.5 34.5 36.5 38.5 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5

Waist: cm 63 68 73 78 83 88 93 98
inches 25 26.5 28.5 31 32.5 34.5 36.5 38.5

Hips: cm 92 97 102 107 112 117 122 127

inches 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

Select size based on the bust or hip measurement, depending on which

is greater for making a jumpsuit.
Select size based on bust measurement if only make a top..

RECOMMENDED FABRICS
Linen, Tencel, crepe, rayon, cotton, ramie.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
This pattern is designed to be hacked and adapted, so if you make only
the top, or only the bottoms, or a Capri length jumpsuit, the amount
you need will vary. Fabric widths vary a lot so as a guide, the general
rule is to measure twice your length to estimate fabric requirements.

SUPPLIES Freebie
Style A: 4 cm/ 1.5” wide elastic to fit your waist.
Style B: 1 cm/1/2” wide elastic to fit your low waist.
SHARE
#phoebefreebie
#phoebecollection
#phoebejumpsuit
#patternunion
@patternunion
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PRINTING
This pattern is designed to be printed on A4 or US Letter. Use Adobe Reader to open your PDF file,
Adobe reader is free to download: https://get.adobe.com/reader/. Ensure your PDF is set to 100%
scaling. With some patterns, you have the option of printing all sizes or printing individual sizes. The
following diagram indicates what to look for:

Turn on the layers to select which pages to print. Your pattern comes with ‘envelopes’ that can be
attached to your printed files for easy reference. DO NOT deselect your ‘pages - do not turn off’
option as these help you tape your pages together.

When you are ready to print, again select 100% scaling, and print the page with your scaling square
to test that your printer is set correctly. When you are satisfied, print the remaining pages.

3
ASSEMBLY
Trim off the margins and tape the pages together. The layout of the pages is printed on page 1 of your
pattern.
TIP:
As a personal preference, I like to trace my patterns onto non-fusable Vilene (also known as interfacing)
for a number of reasons:
• To preserve the original pattern if I make fitting changes
• Vilene doesn’t tear like paper
• Vilene is translucent, which helps with patternmatching
• Vilene doesn’t move like paper and is easy to pin

PATTERN PIECES
There are 44 pages to print. Pages 6 and 11 are the envelope design.

Style A and Style B share pieces 1 - 4; please note the different cutting lines for the waist
position.
Pieces 5 - 8 are for Style A.

1. Front Pants, cut x1 pair (Style A and B)

2. Back Pants, cut x1 pair (Style A and B)
3. Front top, cut x1 pair (Style A and B)
4. Back top, cut x1 pair (Style A and B)
5. Outer waistband, cut x1 on fold (Style A)
6. Center waistband, cut x1 (Style A)
7. Waistband Lining, cut x1 on fold (Style A)
8. Waist ties, cut 1 pair (Style A)

The envelope design the can be pasted onto an A4/Letter envelope for easy reference
and pattern storage.

4
 SIZING INFORMATION
Important!
• Compare your personal measurements against the size chart and select your size based on your hip
measurement. As this is a pull-on garment, you must be able to get it over your hips.
• If your Bust measurement is greater than your hips you can select your size based on your bust measure-
ment, however you may find the pants are too loose, in which case print ‘all sizes’ and blend between
the hip and bust to fit.
• Always test the fit by making a test garment (toile) out of a cheap fabric that emulates the type of fabric
you plan to use.

TIP: If you are between sizes, measure the waist of your chosen size; after subtracting the seam allowances,
this measurement should be 5cm/2.5” greater than your actual hip measurement or 10cm/5” greater than
your actual bust measurement to allow for ease in the garment.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES
• Cutting instructions are printed on all pattern pieces
• Seam allowance, where used, are included on the pattern and are 1cm or 3/8” unless specified.
• Top stitching is 2mm from seam edge.
• Iron at each stage of construction.
• Use a size 80/12 needle.
• Finish seams with either overlocking or zig zag stitch if required.
• It is assumed that all seams are back-tacked at each end, unless specified.

Note: this pattern does not have a finished trouser length to allow you to decide on the
length and depth of hem.

LEGEND/ GLOSSARY
GRAINLINE
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE
FABRIC FABRIC
Overlocking

Notch
Zig Zag stitch
CB - center back

CF - center front
Straight stitch
FOE - foldover elastic

SA - seam allowance Elastic Lace

Grainline - direction of fabric grain along the selvedge

CENTRE FOLD

5
 QUICK CONSTRUCTION
Phoebe is the most versatile pattern you will ever own - and this one is free!

This pattern is designed for you to personalize to reflect your own style and encourages you to experi-
ment with your own versions. As such, the trousers have no finished length, so you can choose the length
and depth of hems (deep hems look great on light-weight fabrics and Tencel denim) while other fabrics
look good with a regular hem or even a cuff - or no hem, just fray the edges!

You can also shorten the length, making Capris, shorts, or even adding side splits. The choice is yours!

The top is just as versatile: tie the straps, twist them or knot them. Swap the back and front around - it all
works!

Why not lengthen the top and make it into a dress?! You be the designer of your own wardrobe!

Keep an eye on the Pattern Union Instagram pages or search #phoebefreebie and #phoebehacks for
inspiration, and don’t forget to post your own hacks!

And as a first for home sewing patterns, Phoebe will have Add-ons released on a regular basis for you to
hack and change things up to get even more out of your pattern.

INSPIRATION - JUMPSUITS

6
INSPIRATION - PANTS QUICK CONSTRUCTION

INSPIRATION - TOPS

7
 CONSTRUCTION
FABRIC LAYOUTS
Fabric layouts are not included as fabric widths vary so much. Instead, you have grain lines
marked on the pattern pieces which can be laid on the WARP or the WEFT.
Strictly grain lines should follow the selvage (the warp) as this is the stronger of the warp
and weft and less likely to stretch out of shape. However this is not actually necessary; the
most important thing is that the grain line is straight.

If you are wanting to create stretch in a woven garment, you would place your grain line at
a 45 degree angle to the warp and weft, but that is not required for the Phoebe collection.

So, fit your pieces to the fabric in the most economical way while keeping the grain line
parallel to the warp or weft. In some cases your fabric may have a border that follows the
selvage, and you may want to utilize that for a hem on pants or a top.

In addition, the Phoebe Collection encourages YOU to be the designer, so you can hack
and adapt the patterns to suit you. As such, fabric requirements can only be estimated by
you. The rule of thumb for buying fabric without a pattern is to purchase twice the length
plus sleeve length (if required).

Lastly, some advice from my years of making couture and teaching impoverished students:
fabric choices make a difference: synthetic fabrics rarely sew as nicely as natural fibers and
quality fabrics do not necessarily cost more. Choose carefully, don’t be swayed by a colour
or print if it won’t sew well!

8
 CONSTRUCTION
The Pants

All styles:
1. Right sides together, place the front leg over the back
leg.
2. Sew the side seam.
3. Sew the inside leg seam.
4. Overlock the seams.
5. Press the seams towards the back.

6. Turn one leg through to the right side, and insert it

into the other leg, so the right sides are together.
7. Align the inseams, and sew the crotch seam.
8. Overlock the seam.
9. Turn pants through to right side.
10. Hem pants to your desired length with the depth/
style of hem of your choice.

HACKING TIP
To make these into pants rather than a jumpsuit, simply
add the waistband.
For no tie, cut x1 pair of the waistband lining.
For a tie, use all waistband pattern pieces. Sew as per
the instructions, but without the top.

9
 CONSTRUCTION
The Top

All styles:
1. On the right side of the back, overlock around the
armholes and center back.
2. On the right side of the front, overlock around the
armholes, top tie and center front.

3. With the right sides together, place the two halves of

the front on top of each other; sew up to the notch.

10
 CONSTRUCTION
4. With the right sides together, place the two halves of
the back on top of each other; sew up to the notch.

Note: there are two options for the notches, low back
and high back, but you can choose how open you want
the back to be!

5. Open out the front, on the wrong side, fold the seam
allowance to the wrong side, and sew in the middle
of the overlocking around the armholes, across the
top of the tie, and down the center front.

11
 CONSTRUCTION
6. Open out the back, on the wrong side, fold the seam
allowance to the wrong side, and sew in the middle
of the overlocking around the armholes, and down
the center front.
7. On the top, make a double hem for the channel: turn
under 1cm, then 4cm.

8. Place the front and back on top of each other, sew

the side seam.

12
 CONSTRUCTION

9. Overlock the sides seams.

10. Thread the overlocking tails back into the seam.
11. press the seams towards the back.

Optional: stay-stitch the seam allowance under

the arms to secure the seam.

HACKING TIP
To make this into a top rather than a jumpsuit,
simply add the waistband or hem the top.

For no tie, cut x1 pair of the waistband lining.

For a tie, use all waistband pattern pieces. Sew
as per the instructions for the jumpsuit, joining
the waistband to the top rather than to the
pants.

Thread the ties through the back channels, or tie

however you want!

Waistband and Ties

STYLE A

12. Overlock the short sides of the outer waistband and the center waistband.

13. Turn the overlocked seam allowance to the wrong side and hem.

13
 CONSTRUCTION
14. Right sides together, sew the center back seam of
the inner waistband.
15. Press the seam allowance open.

16. Pin the outer waistband and center waistband to

the right side of the top, matching the notches.

17. Pin the waistband lining to the wrong side of the

top, matching the notches.

14
 CONSTRUCTION

18. Sew around waistband.

19. Press waistband down on outer and

lining.

20. Overlock the edges of the ties.

21. Turn the overlocking to the wrong side

of the fabric, and hem the ties.

15
 CONSTRUCTION

22. Calculate how much elastic is required:

Personal waist measure x 0.75 =
23. Cut a length of elastic to this measurement.
24. Wrap the ties around the elastic, with the
right sides of the fabric enclosing the elastic;
sew the ties to the elastic.

25. Pull the ties the right way out and press.

Putting it together
ALL STYLES

26. Turn the trousers inside out.

27. Place the trousers over the top, right sides
together. Pin at center back, center front
and side seams.
28. Sew around the waist
Style A: 1cm/1/4” seam allowance
Style B: 1.5cm 1/2” seam allowance
29. Overlock waistline.

16
 CONSTRUCTION

STYLE A

30. Turn the garment the right way out and press the
waist seam.
31. Thread through the waist tie.

Optional: arrange the gathers and secure the elastic

by stay stitching at the side seams to prevent the
elastic rolling when taking the garment off and on..

Press the gathers, and your jumpsuit is finished!

Now experiment with different style options to create

your own Phoebe hacks!

17
 CONSTRUCTION
STYLE B

32. Pull the top out, and press the seam allow-
ance towards the top.
33. Sew the overlocked seam to the top to
create a channel. Leave a gap between the
beginning and the end of the seam.

34. Measure a piece of elastic to sit comfortably

on your low waist.
35. Thread the elastic through the channel.
36. Secure the elastic by sewing the ends to-
gether.
37. Sew the channel closed.

18
 CONSTRUCTION

38. Turn the garment the right way out and press the
waist seam.

Optional: arrange the gathers and secure the elastic

by stay stitching at the side seams to prevent the
elastic rolling when taking the garment off and on..

Press the gathers, and your jumpsuit is finished!

Now experiment with different style options to create

your own Phoebe hacks!

Congratulations! Help spread the word, and share your creation on Instagram:

#phoebefreebie
#phoebejumpsuit
#patternunion
@patternunion
19
 QUICK CONSTRUCTION
THE PANTS
All styles:
1. Right sides together, place the front leg over the back leg.
2. Sew the side seam.
3. Sew the inside leg seam.
4. Overlock the seams.
5. Press the seams towards the back.
6. Turn one leg through to the right side, and insert it into the other leg, so the right sides are together.
7. Align the inseams, and sew the crotch seam.
8. Overlock the seam.
9. Turn pants through to right side.
10. Hem pants to your desired length with the depth/style of hem of your choice.

THE TOP
All styles:
1. On the right side of the back, overlock around the armholes and center back.
2. On the right side of the front, overlock around the armholes, top tie and center front.
3. With the right sides together, place the two halves of the front on top of each other; sew up to the
notch.
4. With the right sides together, place the two halves of the back on top of each other; sew up to the
notch.

Note: there are two options for the notches, low back and high back, but you can choose how open you
want the back to be!
5. Open out the front, on the wrong side, fold the seam allowance to the wrong side, and sew in the mid-
dle of the overlocking around the armholes, across the top of the tie, and down the center front.
6. Open out the back, on the wrong side, fold the seam allowance to the wrong side, and sew in the mid-
dle of the overlocking around the armholes, and down the center front.
7. On the top, make a double hem for the channel: turn under 1cm, then 4cm.
8. Place the front and back on top of each other, sew the side seam.
9. Overlock the sides seams.
10. Thread the overlocking tails back into the seam.
11. press the seams towards the back.
12. Overlock the short sides of the outer waistband and the center waistband.
13. Turn the overlocked seam allowance to the wrong side and hem.
14. Right sides together, sew the center back seam of the inner waistband.
15. Press the seam allowance open.
16. Pin the outer waistband and center waistband to the right side of the top, matching the notches.
17. Pin the waistband lining to the wrong side of the top, matching the notches.
18. Sew around waistband.
19. Press waistband down on outer and lining.
20. Overlock the edges of the ties.
21. Turn the overlocking to the wrong side of the fabric, and hem the ties.
20
 QUICK CONSTRUCTION
22. Calculate how much elastic is required:
Personal waist measure x 0.75 =
23. Cut a length of elastic to this measurement.
24. Wrap the ties around the elastic, with the right sides of the fabric enclosing the elastic; sew the ties
to the elastic.
25. Pull the ties the right way out and press.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER
ALL STYLES

26. Turn the trousers inside out.

27. Place the trousers over the top, right sides together. Pin at center back, center front and side seams.
28. Sew around the waist
Style A: 1cm/1/4” seam allowance
Style B: 1.5cm 1/2” seam allowance
29. Overlock waistline.
30. Turn the garment the right way out and press the waist seam.
STYLE A
31. Thread through the waist tie.

Optional: arrange the gathers and secure the elastic by stay stitching at the side seams to prevent the
elastic rolling when taking the garment off and on..

Press the gathers, and your jumpsuit is finished!

Now experiment with different style options to create your own Phoebe hacks!

STYLE B
32. Pull the top out, and press the seam allowance towards the top.
33. Sew the overlocked seam to the top to create a channel. Leave a gap between the beginning and the
end of the seam.
34. Measure a piece of elastic to sit comfortably on your low waist.
35. Thread the elastic through the channel.
36. Secure the elastic by sewing the ends together.
37. Sew the channel closed.
38. Turn the garment the right way out and press the waist seam.

Optional: arrange the gathers and secure the elastic by stay stitching at the side seams to prevent the
elastic rolling when taking the garment off and on..

Press the gathers, and your jumpsuit is finished!

Now experiment with different style options to create your own Phoebe hacks!
21