presents

4 FREE
SEWING
GUIDES

Fitting Basics

1 2 3 4
1 Fitting Benefits Pt. 1
by Londie Phillips

2 Fitting Benefits Pt. 2

by Londie Phillips

3 Sleeve Fitting
by Julie Culshaw

4 Make it Fit: Simple Sheath Dress

by Rae Cumbie
 4 FREE
SEWING
GUIDES

Fitting Basics
Taking the time to correctly fit your garments will help you
create a flattering wardrobe that you’ll be proud to flaunt. Dis-
cover expert fitting techniques for various garment types by
following these essential step-by-step guides. Begin by learn-
ing how to properly fit a jacket in “Fitting Benefits: Part 1,”
and then expand your fitting skills to include pants in “Fitting
Benefits: Part 2.” Refine the fit of your sleeves and learn trou-
bleshooting tricks in “Sleeve Fitting.” Finally, “Make it Fit: Sim-
ple Sheath Dress” shows you how to fit a classic sheath
dress. Apply your newfound fitting knowledge to your future
sewing projects to create a closet full of gorgeous garments!
Happy sewing!

Beth Bradley
Associate Editor, Sew News

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 Fitting Benefits Pt. 1 ........................................PAGE 1

2 Fitting Benefits Pt. 1 ..................................PAGE 6

3 Sleeve Fitting .............................................PAGE 12

4 Make it Fit: Simple Sheath Dress ................PAGE 17

 make it fit LONDIE PHILLIPS

FITTING BENEFITS, PART 1

Before

Tight-fitting
bustline
Sleeve
length

Elbow dart

Vogue
7947

Pant
length

After
- 1 sewnews
A significant benefit for the fashion sewer is a custom fit for any body
type. This month, we explore the benefits of fitting a jacket. Next month, you’ll learn
the importance of fitting pants. These two segments will give you the knowledge to
complete a perfectly fitted suit that will become a wardrobe staple.

THE BENEFITS OF FITTING ARE causes the jacket to blouse in the back, as Muslin Fitting
OBVIOUS in the before and after shown at left. ForV-necklines or neck-
photos shown at left.The before photo lines scooped in the back, use the sizing Very few people perfectly fit any standard
shows the model wearing a size 10 cut chart to compare neck-to-waist meas- size.The benefits of sewing let you
exactly from the pattern.The after photo urements.Adjust the length accordingly. develop a perfectly fitted garment in
shows a size 10 altered to the model’s any of today’s current styles in the col-
Compare the bust, waist and hip measure- ors and fashion fabrics you enjoy most.
shape and measurements. ments. Jackets are designed with ample Make a muslin or practice sample until
ease to wear over a blouse and drape you’re familiar with fitting techniques.
The Best Pattern Size nicely.To determine the ease amount Perfect the sample and pattern before
Consider both body shape and measure- allowed for the pattern, compare the cutting the fashion fabric.
ments when choosing a basic pattern sizing-key measurements to the pattern
pieces. Some patterns print this infor- Adjust the bodice length. To adjust the
size. Bust, waist and hip measurements
mation on the pattern pieces. In the bodice back length, find the shorten-
may be misleading, especially when one
featured pattern, the bust and hips or-lengthen-here markings on the back
area needs special attention. For instance,
include 3½” of ease and the waist pattern piece.To shorten the bodice, fold
a full bust may suggest a size 14, when
includes 5” of ease. Retain the recom- the pattern and reduce the length by
in fact a size 10 better suits your height
mended allowances for comfort and the necessary amount.Tape or pin
and shape. By using a size 10, the
proper drape. the pattern to secure.To lengthen the
bustline is altered by adjusting only
bodice, cut the pattern at the shorten-
the bodice front— not by changing the The featured model’s waist and hips or-lengthen-here markings, separate the
entire jacket size. Using a size 14 would are closest to a size 10.This size is pieces the necessary amount, and true
lengthen the jacket, broaden the shoulders, also a good base for future pattern all straight-of-grain lines. Use a clear
drop the waist, lower the armhole, selections. Her bust size will almost ruler as a guideline. Place pattern-tracing
increase the waist and hip fullness, and always present fitting challenges and cloth behind the pattern pieces and
create a whole different set of problems. require pattern alterations. secure with tape. Repeat this process
Compare the across-chest, across-back on the front pattern piece (1).
and across-shoulder measurements to
the stitching lines on the pattern pieces.
Most patterns don’t include stitching 1 Adjust bodice length equally on front and back
lines, but they’re generally identified 1⁄2 Across

with pattern markings. Stitching lines shoulders

1⁄2 Across chest
are normally ⅝” from the cutting (plus 3⁄8”)
edge. Use a clear ruler and mark these
Foldline

lines with a soft pencil to help make 1⁄2 Across back

accurate comparisons. For jackets (plus 3⁄8”)
include about ⅜” for ease.
Note the size that’s most consistent with
Shorten or Shorten or
your across-chest, across-back and lengthen here lengthen here
across-shoulder measurements.
Waist
Compare the neck-to-waist measure-
Center front

ment. (The featured model’s back

neck-to-waist measurement is 15”,
but the size 10 pattern measures 16”.
This extra inch in the bodice length

sewnews 2
 Body Measurements

1
5
3
5

4 4
2
1

Take all measurements wearing the undergarments and shoes you’ll wear with the jacket. Stand straight
and in a natural position. Don’t pull the tape too tight; have a friend measure you.

Seven body measurements in yellow help Five additional measurements in red are
determine your basic jacket pattern size: needed to fit the pattern:
1 Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the chest; 1 Bust depth: Measure from the shoulder
don’t let the tape sag in the back. (at the neckline) to the bust point.

2 Waist: Measure around the natural waistline. 2 Bust-point to bust-point: Measure from bust-point
to bust-point (generally 7” to 8” for sizes 8 to 14).
3 Hips: Measure the fullest part of your hips
(approximately 7” down from the waistline). 3 Sleeve length: With your arm bent, measure from
the top of the shoulder to the elbow to the wrist.
4 Across chest: Measure across the chest, from
sleeve edge to sleeve edge. 4 Shoulder to elbow: With your arm slightly bent,
measure from the top of the shoulder to the elbow.
5 Across back: Measure across the back, from sleeve
edge to sleeve edge. 5 Bicep: Measure around the fullest part of
the upper arm.
6 Across shoulders: Measure from the shoulder upper
edge across the neck bone to the other shoulder
upper edge.
7 Back neck-to-waist: Measure from the neck bone
to the waist.

3 sewnews
Taking accurate measurements 2 Draw line through dart centers Separate pattern and fill with
pattern-tracing cloth; tape
will actually help you look more
Pattern-tracing cloth
slender and proportionate when
you wear the garment.

Foldline
Adjust the bustline. The featured model’s

Foldline
bust measurement is 3” larger than the
size-10 pattern.To add 3” to the center
front or side seams appears like a good
solution, but it doesn’t account for
necessary shaping around the bust.The

Center front
best solution is to separate the pattern
at the bust point, adding the increase

Center front
specifically where it’s needed.To increase
the bustline, draw a line down each dart
center. Connect the dart points and cut Dart
the pattern. Since 3” are needed, each
side needs to be increased by 1½”. 11⁄2”
Separate the pattern pieces 1½”.True
all horizontal and vertical lines. Insert
pattern-tracing cloth under each side
and tape (2). Even though the darts 3 Redefine darts 4 True shoulder seam; add seam allowance
to darts
are changed, the waist, hip and shoulder
measurements remain the same.
Mark the bust point on the new Bust
pattern. Redraw the darts, using the depth
Foldline

new markings to determine placement. 1⁄2Bust

The point of the lower dart should point
3⁄4”
begin about ¾” below the bust point; to bust
point New cutting line
the upper dart point should be at least
2” higher than the lower dart point
(3). The new darts are now very
wide and will be bulky if left as is.
Original dart

To resolve this problem cut away the

Center front

excess fabric. Use a clear ruler and

mark cutting lines ⅝” outside the dart
lines (4). To true the shoulder seam,
fold the shoulder dart and redraw the
shoulder seam using a clear ruler or
straight edge. Adjust the upper dart
length and/or width further during
the fitting process if necessary.
Reduce bust fullness using the same
approach. Cut the pattern along the
tip: Decrease the hipline either at the
dart lines, and then reduce the bustline side seam or the back darts. Don’t reduce
fullness the desired amount by overlap- the hip measurement on the front dart.
ping the pattern pieces. Keep the
grainlines and vertical markings true,
and then secure with tape. Redefine
the darts as outlined above and true
the shoulder seam.

sewnews 4
 To increase the waistline, determine the the pattern to determine if the width, Cutting &
problem area(s): front, sides or back.Add or bicep area, needs to be altered.
to the side seams or reduce the darts
Construction
Compare shoulder-to-elbow measurements.
depending on your body shape. Side Cut the fabric and stitch the darts as
If shoulder pads are used, add the shoulder
seams should always be reduced or directed on the pattern. Stitch the shoulder
pad thickness to your body measure-
increased equally on the front and back. seams and hand baste the side seams
ment. Length is usually added to the
If the shaping of one seam is changed using a long running stitch. Don’t press
upper sleeve in order to accommodate
and not the other, it produces a puck- the seams or darts until you fit the jacket.
shoulder pads. Compare your measure-
ered seam and affects the jacket drape. ments to the pattern; measure from the For each fitting, wear the undergarments
Side seams should hang straight up and top of the sleeve to the point of the elbow and shoes you’ll wear with the outfit.
down and not pull toward the front or dart (5).The dart point should point Even though shoes don’t affect the
back.The same is true for darts. Increase directly to your elbow when your arm is jacket length, they do affect your stance
or decrease them equally on each side. bent.Adjust the upper sleeve length to and the fabric drape.
Follow the same procedure to increase correct the elbow-dart placement. Stitch the elbow dart and baste the
the hip. Add shape to the side seams Adjust the lower sleeve length. Mark the underarm sleeve seam. Baste the sleeve
or fullness to the front or back by hemline on the pattern and lengthen cap and ease it slightly. Pin the top of
reducing the darts. or shorten the pattern as needed at the the sleeve to the jacket shoulder seam.
Make a sample jacket front from muslin. shorten-or-lengthen-here markings. Check that the dart is in the accurate
Allow for seam allowances and the Fold out the excess, or cut and separate location; determine the correct sleeve
center-front overlap when observing the pattern pieces to add length. Don’t length. Make necessary adjustments
the muslin fit. Pin-fit the muslin sample simply make the pattern longer by before pressing the darts and stitching
if it needs further adjustment. Mark adding length to the hem edge or the underarm and side seams.
along the pins, and then transfer the shorten it by trimming the pattern. Follow the remaining pattern guidelines
new markings to the adjusted pattern. This changes the sleeve contour and for construction, including interfacing,
When a pattern calls for shoulder pads, makes it either too full or too narrow pressing and finishing edges.
pin the shoulder pads to your bra straps at the wrist and/or hem.
Londie Phillips is a graduate of the San
before fitting.
Francisco School of Fashion Design.
After adjusting the main pattern pieces,

She’s presently the lead designer for

Compare bicep measurements. Jacket consider if any of these changes will
Nancy Ann Storybook Dolls.
sleeves don’t fit snuggly like a T-shirt affect the lining or facing pattern
and there’s a certain amount of built-in pieces. If so, make similar adjustments
ease. Refer again to the markings on to them.
source
Hancock Fabrics, www.hancockfabrics.com,
supplied the fabric and supplies for this project.

5 Compare sleeve measurements

To elbow
tip: When using fusible interfacing,
cut out the pattern pieces about 1⁄2”
larger all the way around. Recut the
Sleeve
length
pattern pieces after the interfacing is
applied as ironing may cause
slight fabric shrinkage. Z

5 sewnews 5 OCTOBER 2006

make it fit LONDIE PHILLIPS
Before
FITTING BENEFITS, PART 2

Extra
fabric in
the seat

Pants may be simple to sew, yet they’re

often the hardest to fit. Adjust the pattern
according to your body contours for the
optimum fit.

LAST MONTH YOU LEARNED Consider your body contours

ABOUT THE BENEFITS OF once you’ve determined
Pant
FITTING A JACKET through the your best pattern size. Body
discussion of alterations and sizing or shape deviations from the length
preferences.The topics for this segment basic pattern cause the pants too long
are body contours and pant alterations. to pull or sag. Subtle
Learn how to choose the correct variations and pattern
pattern size, alter the pattern according adjustments make a
to body contour, and pin fit.While remarkable difference in fit
choosing the correct pattern size is (1). Consider the various
important, pattern adjustments are deviations from the pattern
usually necessary for beautifully tailored and identify the areas you
results. In the before photo at right, should address. Pattern
the model wears a size-10 pant cut adjustments should be made

Vogue 7947
exactly from the pattern.The after where they’re needed and
photo shows an altered size 10 that not just by randomly adding
best complements the model’s figure. or subtracting inches at the
waist, the hips or even
the length.
Best Pattern Size If you base the pattern size on your If your stomach is round but dents in
Compare your waist and hip measurements waist measurement, the pattern should at the waist, increase the front darts.
to the pattern-sizing chart. Pattern be fairly correct in that area. If you Add up to ¼” on each side of the
sizes vary considerably compared to opted for a larger or smaller pattern dart for a total of 1” (4). Make an
ready-to-wear clothing sizes. Patterns size due to your hip measurement, additional dart if you need to reduce
also include various ease amounts refer to figure 1 to determine where the waist even more.
depending on the style. A pant with the waistline should be adjusted. If your hips are fullest in the back,
pleats may have 1” to 4” added at
If your body is narrow front to back decrease the waist up to ¼” on each
the hipline, making it difficult to
compare your measurements directly with dramatic waist-to-hip shaping, side of the back darts, and/or at the
to the pattern. Choose a pattern alter the pattern at the side seams. center-back seam (5).
based on the hip size if the compared Subtract equal amounts from the Any reduction or increase on the pattern
measurements don’t correspond to the front and back side seams (2). is doubled on the finished garment,
same size. For instance, if your waist If your body contour is very straight at since there’s a left and right side.The
is a size 10 and your hips are a 14, the side and your waist is larger than alterations need not be limited to one
choose the size-14 pattern.This allows the pattern-sizing chart, straighten the location, i.e., front, back or side. Small
for enough pattern paper to make the side seams extending the front and or considerable adjustments may be
necessary adjustments. back equally the needed amount (3). necessary in several locations.

sewNews 6
 1 Body contours
Never choose a
pattern size based
on your ready-to-
Stomach
wear size. If it helps contour
contributes
your self-esteem, to hip
measurement Basic
ignore the numbers! pattern
Dramatic size
You’ll feel and look Straight waist-to-hip
shaping Extended
at sides
body
better in properly profile
fitted clothing. Basic
pattern
Upper leg
size Basic circumference
pattern
size

After
2 Narrow body contour 4 Round body contour

Up to
1⁄4”

Increase
front dart

Back Front

Subtract equal amounts from

front and back side seams Front

3 Straight body contour 5 Full hip contour

Up to
1⁄4”

Back Front

Straighten side seams equally

on front and back Back

Increase back dart and/or

center-back seam

Vogue 7947

7 sewNews
Body Measurements
Compare
& Contrast
Take your measurements wearing the
Most patterns don’t show the stitching

shoes and undergarments you’ll wear with

line, which is generally ⅝” from
the pants. Don’t pull the tape too tight or
3 the cutting line. For more accuracy,
let it sag.
use a soft pencil and clear ruler
to mark the stitching line before
Six body measurements determine comparing measurements.
your basic pant pattern size: Hips: If the pattern size was based
7 Waist: Measure around the
on your hip size, make no changes
natural waistline.
1
at this time.

7 Hips: Measure the fullest part of

Crotch Depth: Compare your crotch-

your hips (approximately 7” down

2
depth measurement, plus 1” for ease,
from the waistline).
to the pattern side seam. Adjust the
pattern at the shorten-or-lengthen-
7 Crotch length: Measure from the
3 here markings at the hipline (6).
center-front waistline between the
legs to the center-back waistline.
Crotch length (front and back): Once the

Notice approximately where the

pattern is adjusted for crotch depth,

inner leg seam will be.

compare your front and back crotch
length measurement plus 1” for ease to
7 Crotch depth: Sit on a hard chair,
4 the pattern.This measurement provides
and then measure from the side
4
for the contour shaping around the
waist to the chair seat.
stomach and seat area.

7 Pant length: Measure

from the side waist to
5

the approximate hem.

(This varies with
different shoes.)
6 Adjust crotch depth
1
7 Upper-leg circumference:
Measure around the
6
Shorten or

fullest part of the

lengthen here

upper leg.
2 Crotch
depth

tip: Patterns are

drafted with a narrow
crotch profile (width). 5
It’s rare that the
front-crotch length
needs to be reduced.
Don’t confuse this
with the crotch depth.

sewNews 8
 Pattern Profile pattern pieces the needed amount.
Slide paper under the separated pieces
Refer to figure 1 to outline your profile. and tape to secure (9).
To get a feel for the pattern profile,
place the pattern pieces together, If your fullness is at the lower seat and leg,
aligning the inseams; secure with pins draw a perpendicular line from the
at the crotch stitching line. Note the lower seat to the center leg, and then to
profile width and shape (7). the knee. Cut on the line and separate
the pattern the needed amount. Secure
If your stomach is round, make the with paper and tape (10 on page 32).
adjustment for the crotch length at
the center-front seam (at the fullest For a very slim figure the crotch length
part of the stomach). Draw a line may need reducing. If your body
from the dart to the fullest part of width is narrow, reduce the pattern-
the center front. Cut the pattern and profile width. Draw a line from the
separate the desired length. Slide paper lower-back crotch to the inseam.
under the separated pattern pieces Fold the pattern in a dart fashion.
and tape to secure.The center-front Secure with tape (11). If necessary,
seam will be slightly curved (8). address the problem area further in
the pin-fitting stage.
If your seat is fuller than the basic
pattern, make an adjustment at the
fullest part of the center-back seam. tip: If dramatic changes are
Draw a line from the dart to the made during a muslin fitting,
fullest point of the seat, and then consider making another
horizontally to the center-back seam. sample. This saves time
Cut on the line and separate the
from further alterations.

7 Outline your profile 8 Round stomach 9 Full seat

Crotch length
front and back
Amount
Profile lengthened
width
Amount
lengthened

Profile
width

Front Back

9 sewNews
Pant Length To shorten pants fold the pattern at the If the pants are too tight, mark the
shorten-or-lengthen-here markings, muslin where the fabric pulls. Cut the
Compare the pant-length measurement reducing the length by the needed muslin, and then allow it to separate.
to the pattern’s side seam. Don’t amount. If there’s a shaped hemline, Pin a muslin scrap under the clipped
include the waist seam allowance shorten the pant above and below the areas (14). Mark the new stitching
or the hem in this comparison. knee.Take equal amounts from both lines on the center-back seam.
(The hem is generally marked and the front and back pattern pieces as this
can be from ½” to 2½”, depending Take apart the pants and lay the muslin
insures a gradual taper and/or that the pieces over the pattern.Transfer the new
on the pant style.) bell begins below the knee. Redefine stitching lines to the pattern. Extend the
Shorten the pant pattern before you the cutting lines. pattern paper by taping paper to the
cut out the fashion fabric. If the leg outside edges. It’s not necessary to cut
is cut straight or only slightly tapered, Muslin Fitting the pattern and separate it as for the
shorten the pattern around the muslin pant. Re-establish the cutting
Use basting stitches to make a sample
knee area. lines—they should be ⅝” from the
pant from muslin or sample fabric.
To lengthen pants, cut the pattern Wear the undergarments and shoes that stitching line.
at the shorten-or-lengthen-here you’ll wear with the pants. Pin-fit any This process may seem time intensive, but
markings. Spread the pattern pieces areas that still need adjusting.Transfer the result is a pattern you can use as a
the needed amount. Insert paper under the changes to the pattern pieces. base to alter other pant patterns. Since
the pattern pieces and secure with tape. the crotch and darts remain consistent,
Pin out any excess fabric and mark
Make sure the grainlines remain true. If transfer the changes to any pattern. Use
the adjustment with a fabric marker
the leg has a bell or tapered shape, true the grainline markings as a guide for
(13). Remove the stitching from the
the cutting line making gradual placement, keeping them parallel.
muslin and compare each piece to the
directional changes (12).
pattern. Fold the pattern, reducing it
the adjusted amount; tape to secure.

º Lower leg/seat fullness ¡ Reduce crotch length ™ Belled or tapered leg adjustment areas

Amount
lengthened
Fold
dart
here

Shorten or
lengthen here

Back Back

sewNews 10
 Cutting & Designer Details
Construction 7 Add a double row of stitching to the
Cut the fashion fabric and stitch the side seams for a faux flat-felled seam.
darts as directed by the pattern guide- Use contrasting thread for interest.
lines. Stitch the center-front and Roll the pant legs and add tabs and
center-back seams and baste the side buttons for a contemporary look.
seams. Don’t press the seams or darts 7 Shorten the pant legs and taper
until you fit the pants.The waistline them slightly by taking equal
will be slightly tighter after the waist- amounts from each side (front
band or facing is applied. Follow the and back). Include a vent or
remaining pattern guidelines for buttons for an accent.
construction, including pressing,
7 Add purchased decorative tape or
interfacing and finishing the edges.
accent fabric to a turned-back cuff
When choosing fabric for pants consider for trendy fashion appeal. tip: Reduce, increase
Londie Phillips is a freelance designer
the weight and drape. Fabrics with a
or modify side seams
and writer. She also teaches design
small amount of stretch or give are
and pattern-making seminars.
more comfortable, especially for fitted equally on the front and
pants.Test the fabric by pulling it back. If you change the
slightly from side to side. Choose a shaping of one seam
source
Hancock Fabrics, www.hancockfabrics.com,
fabric that drapes nicely with a close
and not the other, you
supplied the fabric and supplies for
weave. Fabrics with a loose weave
this project.
pull apart at stress areas on the seams. affect the drape and
can produce a puck-
ered seam. Side seams
should hang straight
and not pull toward the
£ Pin excess fabric; mark ¢ Pin muslin under tight areas front or back. Z

11 sewNews
how to Fitting problems & solutions

Sleeves
JULIE CULSHAW

MOST SEWERS FIT THE BODICE ation is more than 2”, alter the sleeve
OF GARMENTS but often overlook in two places—above the elbow and
the sleeves. Has this ever happened to between the elbow and wrist.
you? You’re sewing a garment and
everything’s looking fine. But when To lengthen the sleeve, slash across the
you insert the sleeves, suddenly the lengthen/shorten line(s) and spread the
garment doesn’t fit as comfortably as required amount, placing pattern-tracing
before.To avoid that disappointment, cloth beneath your pattern to fill in
check the fit of the sleeves before the gap (2). To shorten the sleeve, draw
setting them into the garment. a line above or below the lengthen/
shorten line, cut the pattern on the line
Length and tape it to the new line (3).

Check the sleeve pattern length. For garments with dropped sleeves, a
Measure your arm (or have someone better way to measure is from the bone
else do it for you) from the bone at at the top of the spine, over to the
the end of your shoulder, around your shoulder bone, then down the arm to
elbow with your arm bent, down to the wrist with the elbow bent.To
your wrist bone (1). This measurement measure the pattern, pin the pattern
includes the ease required for moving sleeve to the back pattern piece, over-
your arm. lapping the seam allowances. Measure
from the center back, diagonally over
Use this measurement to check the to the outer shoulder seam, and then
sleeve length on set-in styles. Lengthen down the sleeve center (4). If the
or shorten as necessary. If your alter- sleeve has a cuff, pin it to the sleeve;

1 2

sewNews 12
 If your pattern has a two-piece sleeve, as is
often the case with jackets, tape the sleeve
pieces together overlapping the seam allowances,
and alter both pieces at the same time.

the cuff adds 2” or more to the arm garment unless you’re working with
length. Add 1” or more if you want knit. Because knits stretch and provide
the sleeve to blouse. natural ease, you may only want 1” of
ease in a knit sleeve.
Don’t skip measuring a short sleeve.
If you have short arms, elbow-length Instead of measuring your arm, measure
sleeves may be too long, and you’ll the sleeve of a garment you feel
need to shorten the sleeve in the upper comfortable in for the most accurate
arm area. Conversely, if you have long amount of desired ease. Lay the garment
arms, you probably need to lengthen flat, measure the sleeve 2” below the
short sleeves. underarm, and subtract your arm meas-
urement. Measure the pattern and note
Shorten the sleeve in the body of the the difference.
sleeve rather than at the hem. Chopping
off the sleeve at the hem changes the To enlarge the sleeve use the following
width and you’ll lose the pattern’s hem method, which allows you to make a
shaping. For a long sleeve without a larger alteration to the sleeve circum-
cuff, shape the hem so it mirrors the ference while maintaining the size of
sleeve shape. It will be easier to stitch the sleeve cap.This method doesn’t
in place (5). affect the bodice seams or armseye in
any way.
Arm Width
Draw a vertical line through the sleeve
Measure around the fullest part of your center and a horizontal line through
bicep and allow 2” to 3” of ease in the the sleeve just below the underarm

3 4 5

13 sewNews
how to Fitting problems & solutions

curve. Cut both lines up to, but not Trim away the seam allowances in the To reduce the sleeve-cap ease, slash
through, the stitching lines. Clip the underarm area as seam bulk restricts from the cap cutting line down into
tissue from the outer edge toward, but arm movement. If the armseye still feels the head of the sleeve. Overlap the
not through, the first cut.This creates tight, remove the sleeve in the under- slashes equally to remove some ease
hinges that allow the tissue to lay arm area and trim the underarm of the (7). Reverse the procedure and add to
flat (6). garment to about ¼”. Reinsert the the sleeve cap if you need to make the
sleeve and you should notice an sleeve bigger.
Place the sleeve on pattern-tracing cloth improvement.
and trace around the original sleeve Altering Cuffs
cap. Spread the pattern open to gain If that adjustment isn’t enough the entire
extra width. If the change is significant, armhole needs to be longer. Slash the Cuffs don’t usually pose much of a
the sleeve cap will drop down.Tape the bodice front and back through the problem, but check that there’s 1” to
altered sleeve in place and trace around armhole area, add length and alter the 2” of ease.
the outer edges. Straighten the hem- sleeve cap the same amount.This
line.This gives you more room within makes both the armseye and the sleeve Pin the cuff around your wrist, matching
the sleeve where you need it, but keeps cap longer. Make any necessary changes the button marking with the button-
the sleeve cap intact so it will ease into to your front facings and neckline since hole, and make sure you can slip a fin-
the armseye as designed. they will have changed. Don’t add ger between your wrist and the cuff. If
more than ½” to 1” with this alteration. you’re making a short sleeve with a
To make the sleeve smaller, reverse band, check that you have sufficient
the above procedure, overlapping the Too Much Ease ease.
pattern instead of spreading it to make
it narrower. Setting a sleeve into a garment can be To alter cuffs, slash and spread them to
difficult, but sometimes the problem is lengthen or overlap them to shorten.
Armhole Too Tight? the pattern, not you.The sleeve cap Disregard the notches on cuffs; just
should only measure about 1” to 1½” make them fit the hem circumference.
Sometimes, the sleeve fits but the arm- larger than the armseye. If the sleeve is
hole feels tight. larger than that, getting it to fit without If you alter a cuff on a long sleeve shirt
puckers will be difficult. or blouse, alter the sleeve circumference
to fit. Change the pleats on a long
sleeve shirt or change the angle of the
underarm seam to reduce or enlarge
the sleeve lower edge.
6 7 Overlap

Making a Muslin

Although they’re advised to, very few

seamstresses make muslins. Making a
sleeve muslin is easy and can prevent
problems. It’s especially wise to make
one for a jacket sleeve.You’ll see right
away how the sleeve fits, whether the
cap has too much ease, if it’s hanging
on grain and what length adjustments
you’ll need. Be sure to put in the prop-
Hinge er shoulder pad when fitting. A half
hour spent making a muslin can save

sewNews 14
 Set-in sleeve
SLEEVE TYPES
Alterations vary depending on the sleeve.
The four basic sleeves are set-in, dropped or
extended, raglan, and dolman.
SET-IN sleeves have a cap shaped distinctly
like a bell and are meant to sit right at the
shoulder point; 1⁄4” to 1⁄2” beyond if there’s a
countless hours if you spot a problem

shoulder pad. The armhole also comes up

and correct it before cutting the gar-

higher underneath the arm. These sleeves Dropped sleeve

ment fabric.

give the trimmest look and give your arm more

freedom of movement than the more casual
Cut out one sleeve in a similar fabric

dropped sleeve.
weight to your garment fabric. Draw
the vertical and horizontal grainlines on
the sleeve. Sew the garment front and DROPPED OR EXTENDED sleeves have a
back together, baste in the sleeve flattened cap and are generally inserted into
muslin, and check the following: the garment before the underarm seam is
sewn. This sleeve is good if you lose weight
k Is the sleeve hanging straight? The because you can alter the garment side
seams and sleeves without removing the
Raglan sleeve
marked grainlines will show this right
away. If not, remove the basting and sleeves. Most shirts fall into this category.
shift the ease in the sleeve cap. Move Dropped sleeves can look sloppy because
the sleeve cap toward the garment front they’re loose fitting. To improve the fit, shorten
or back to make the sleeve hang better. the bodice in the sleeve area and reduce the
shoulder width. This brings the sleeve and the
k Is the sleeve the right length? Turn up seam higher up under the arm. Slash the
and mark the hem—this is essential if bodice front and back and
you’re adding a cuff or putting in a overlap the tissue to
sleeve vent. reduce the armseye size A
(A). Shorten the shoulder
seam; no change is
Dolman sleeve
k Are there wrinkles in the sleeve cap?
If there are draglines near the under- necessary to the sleeve.
arm, add more height to the sleeve cap (Remove up to 1” with
because there isn’t enough fabric for this alteration.)
RAGLAN sleeves are
the cap to hang smoothly. Remove the

seamed diagonally to the

basting at the sleeve cap and let the

bodice front and back. They may have

sleeve drop until the draglines disap-

a dart at the top of the shoulder or may be

pear.The opened space is the amount

seamed down the sleeve center. They’re

you need to add to the sleeve cap.

comfortable in sportswear, coats and jackets,

as they provide shoulder room and allow for
k Is the sleeve too tight or too loose?

bulkier garments underneath. Sleeves with a center seam are

Wrinkles across the cap indicate tight-

easy to alter. Alter the length between the underarm and wrist.
ness; folds collapsing in the cap indicate

Alter the width within the tissue, as the seams joining the sleeve
that it’s too loose.

to the garment are often shaped and you don’t want to affect the
way they fit into the armseye.
k Is the cap too full? Easing a sleeve into
a jacket is a mark of a good seamstress.
If the sleeve cap stitching line is more DOLMAN sleeves are cut as one piece with the B
than 1½” longer than the armseye bodice. The underarm is often cut very low, but you
you’re inserting it into, you’ll have diffi- can raise that seam. Sew the curve deeper, starting
culty.Wool is the easiest fabric to set in; gradually (B). Check the fit, as you need room to get
polyesters and microfibers are the hard- the garment over your head and shoulders. The
est—reduce the amount of ease in sharper the curve becomes, the more you need to
sleeves made from those fibers. trim and clip it so it lays flat.

15 sewNews
how to Fitting problems & solutions

Setting in Sleeves cap. Remove the interfacing from an

old tie. Cut a strip about 1” to 1½”
A dropped, or extended, sleeve has a wide. On the sleeve wrong side, place
flattened cap and is sewn to the arms- the tie interfacing on the stitching line.
8
eye before sewing the underarm seam. Sew from one notch around the sleeve
There’s little or no ease in this sleeve cap to the other notch, pulling the
cap; the little there is can be eased in interfacing as tightly as you can and
by sewing with the sleeve side against letting the fabric feed normally.When
the feed dogs to help draw in the you remove the sleeve, the interfacing
fabric. For blouses, press the seam returns to its normal length, gathering
Stitch
allowances toward the sleeve. For shirts, the sleeve cap with it.The interfacing
press the seam allowances toward the remains in the cap.When the sleeve is
bodice. Edgestitch and/or topstitch sewn into the jacket the interfacing is
shirt seam allowances. pressed out into the sleeve cap with the Tuck
A set-in sleeve has a higher, more seam allowances. It acts as a buffer
shaped cap and is inserted in the between the sleeve and the garment,
round (underarm seam is sewn and supporting the cap and giving a
rounded tailored shape.
the sleeve is sewn as a circle into the 9
armseye). For most blouses and dresses,
you can ease the sleeve cap using a Hem Treatment
method called “ease stitch plus.”
This method for hemming short
Place the sleeve cap under the presser sleeves is quick and gives a nice look.
foot, and sew from notch to notch
on the stitching line with your left When cutting out the sleeve, make sure
forefinger held tightly against the back the side seams are straight and don’t
of the presser foot.This causes the angle in. If the pattern doesn’t have a
fabric to bunch up and gathers the cap 1¼” hem, make that change on the
slightly.When you remove the sleeve, it pattern.
already has a curved shape. If this isn’t
enough gathering, repeat.Then pin the Cut the sleeve 1⁄2” longer than the
sleeve into the armseye and stitch. pattern. Sew the underarm seam. Press
under 1¼” on the hem; press under
For jackets, sew two lines of basting 1¼” again. To add a contrast cuff to a jacket,
stitches on the cap: one on the stitching lengthen the sleeve by the depth of
line and one ½” from the raw edge. On the sleeve wrong side, stitch exactly the cuff. Keep the sleeve straight when
Pull up the bobbin thread and adjust ¼” from the fold around the entire going down to the hem or the cuff
the gathers to match the armseye.Work hem. Pull down the hem allowance, won’t turn back smoothly.
the gathers so the fullness is even with pushing the little tuck up toward the
no puckers.When stitching the sleeve shoulder; press (8). The result is a tuck Replace the bottom third of the lining
to the garment, sew with the sleeve on the sleeve right side and a nice with a contrast fabric. Add seam
side on top so you can see the gather- finish inside. allowances when cutting the fabric.
ing. Pull the fabric on either side of
the presser foot to flatten it and, as long Adding a Cuff Stitch the contrast fabric to the lining;
as you sew right on the stitching line, line the sleeve right to the edge (9). Z
the sleeve will be pucker free. Many jackets look good with folded-
back cuffs.This also solves the problem
Another method for jacket sleeves of sleeve length—simply fold the cuff
involves adding a sleeve header to the more or less depending on how long
you want the sleeve.

sewNews 16
 RAE CUMBIE
make it fit
SIMPLE SHEATH DRESS

The sleeveless sheath dress first became popular

during the Roaring ’20s, flourished in the 1960s
and returned to center stage at the turn of this
a staple
century. Today, sheath dresses are
of spring and summer
wardrobes.
ACHIEVING A PERFECT FIT in a
“simple” sheath dress requires a little
advance preparation.The dress should
skim the body curves from neckline
to hem with unwrinkled ease. By
making a few simple adjustments, you
can create your own perfect sheath
dress.

choosing a pattern
Classic sheath-dress patterns feature
either darts or princess seamlines that
start at the armseye. If you’re particu-
larly curvy, the princess seams offer
more options to make adjustments.
For straighter bodies, darts provide
the necessary shaping from the upper
body through the hip curve.Your fab-
ric selection will also dictate which
design to choose. A soft, flowing fab-
ric will work better with fewer
seams, while stiffer, crisp fabrics are
better controlled with more seams as
found in princess garments.
If you don’t know your pattern
size, have a friend take your measure-
ments, including a high-bust or chest

Butterick
measurement (place the tape measure
5588
above the bust in front and above the
bra line in back). Patterns from the
major pattern companies are sized
differently than ready-to-wear garments,
so compare your measurements to the
charts in the back of the pattern cata-
logs. Choose the bust size closest to,
but not smaller than, your high-bust
measurement to assure the best fit in
the shoulders and armholes.

17 sewNews
 1 Begin at waist and draw gradual curve to
full hip, then straight down to hem.

If your chest and hip measurements making a mock-up

indicate different sizes, a multisize
pattern is a good solution—you can After making adjustments to the flat
cut on the appropriate size line in pattern, it’s useful to sew the pattern
each area. in fabric to fine-tune the fit. Choose
muslin or a fabric similar to the fash-
ion fabric. (Avoid dark or large-print
tell-tale fabrics, as the needed adjustments Full Hip Line
measurements won’t be as obvious.)
Your measurements provide informa- Cut only the main garment pieces. If
tion about how you’ll need to adjust you know you need extra room at
your pattern. the hips, cut out the garment with
If your full bust measures 2½” or extra-wide seam allowances in that
more than your high bust, make a area—2” is usually sufficient.Transfer
full-bust adjustment. all seamlines, marks and darts to the
fabric, including the center-front and
If your back-waist length is shorter or
-back lines and the horizontal hip
longer than the pattern, adjust the be no excess fabric or pouching at
line. Hand or machine-baste the fab-
pattern at the above-waist pattern dart points.
ric pieces together leaving the zipper
adjustment line. For a shorter back
area open. Princess seamlines should run
length, fold out the extra amount at
the adjustment line and tape. If your Staystitch the curved seamlines at smoothly from the armhole to just
back-length measurement is longer the neck and armhole edges. Clip to, outside the bust apex and continue to
than the pattern, cut along the adjust- but not through, the stitching so the the hem.
ment line and spread the pattern fabric will give and the garment will Neck edges and armholes should lie
the needed amount.Tape a strip of sit correctly at the neck and armhole. smoothly against the body with no
pattern tracing cloth in place to fill Put on the mock-up garment, and pulls or gaps. Side seams should fall
the space. pin the zipper opening closed. perpendicular to the floor, and hori-
If your waist and hip measurements Look for areas that are too tight or zontal lines should run parallel to the
differ from those listed on the pat- too loose. Release and stitch narrower floor. Make any necessary corrections
tern, add or subtract from the pattern seams to add room where it’s needed. so the mock-up fits this way.
waist and hip, dividing the adjustment (Fabric drag lines will “point” to areas
amount equally between the vertical needing adjustment.) If an area needs rounded upper back
seamlines. For example, if an extra 6” even more fabric, such as across a For many, a rounded upper back
is needed at the hips and you have a broad back, slash the area and add requires a fitting adjustment. If your
princess-seam pattern, there are six additional fabric. Pin out areas where dress crawls up the back of your neck,
adjustable seams—two side-front, two there is too much fabric. Make the or pulls across the upper back, slash
side-back and two side seams—equal- same changes on the pattern for the garment horizontally through the
ing 12 seam allowances. Divide the future garments. center-back seam across the curve,
adjustment amount (6”) by the num- Darts should follow body curves, and ending just before the armhole seam.
ber of seam allowances (12).The bust darts should end approximately The fabric will spread the amount
resulting ½” is the amount to add to ¾” from the bust apex.There should needed to add to your pattern.
each seam edge from the hipline to

tip: Fitting is much easier if you have someone to help make the
the hem. Use a French curve to
smoothly redraw the seam from the

adjustments. To find a sewing educator to help you, ask about sewing

waist to the hip adjustment (1).
These adjustments may need to be
fine-tuned in the fabric, but they’ll teachers at your favorite fabric store or visit www.paccprofessionals.org
for their dressmaker and sewing educator referral list. Oftentimes, sewing
give you a good start toward an
professionals will work with you on an hourly basis.
excellent fit.

sewNews 18
 2 Slash fabric and add amount needed for 3 True center back seam. Add dart to 4 Slash and spread
rounded back. remove excess added by truing seam. pattern to add
room for full bust. Slash.

Slash.

Center Front

Center Front
Center Back
Center Back
Princess Seamline

Side Front

Side Front
Add a piece of fabric, and pin in in the side-front seams as needed.
place to achieve a smooth back (2). Add these adjustments to the pattern
Slash the paper pattern along the
Butterick
by redrawing the princess bust curve

6001
same line, and tape in a wedge that or shortening the dart after folding
corresponds exactly to the mock-up. and taping out the pattern excess (5).
True the center-back seam so it
remains on the straight grain. Fill in neck & armholes
the pattern with tissue to assure a
Excess fabric in the neck and arm-
straight center-back line.
hole can be pinned out with small
Add a dart in the back neck to rede- tucks on the pattern—true the cut-
fine the neck contour (3). ting line at the tuck. If the excess
fullness is more than ½”, transfer the
bust adjustments extra to an existing dart or princess
If a princess-seam garment pulls seam.
across the bustline, release the seams Pin out the excess fabric, and mark
in the bust area, and repin them to fit. along the pins; remove the pins.The
For a very full bust, slash the mock- new marks will look like a dart, but
up side-front and the center-front, they’ll appear in an area where you
adding fabric to allow for a smooth don’t want a dart for design purposes
fit.Then go to your paper pattern, (6). The dart will be moved to a
and make the same adjustments (4). more conventional area on the gar-
Also see “Make It Fit” in the August ment. Start by transferring the marks
’04 Sew News for making a full-bust to the corresponding place on the
adjustment to a princess-seam pattern.
garment. For patterns with bust darts, slash
Adjust for a smaller bust on a darted through the dart center and through
sheath dress by pinning out a fabric the adjustment “dart,” extending the
tuck from the shoulder to the hem. slashes until they almost touch, leav-
For a princess-seam sheath dress, take ing a small hinge of tissue (7).

A sheath is a great way to showcase a new

fabric. Or, create an understated dress to set off
a lovely jacket or scarf.

19 sewNews
5 Adjust pattern for smaller bust. 6 Pin out excess at neck or bust; mark 7 Slash through darts, leaving hinge of tissue
Tuck out fullness. along pins. where slashes meet.
Excess marked at neck. Slash.
Excess marked
at armholes. Leave
hinge of
tissue.
Reduce
Reduce bust

Center Front
dart. curve.
Center Front

Center Front

Center Front
Center Front
Slash.
Side Front

8 Fold out dart at neck; fill in spread area 9 Fold out dart and pin. Trim excess at P Remove excess neck fabric. Slash, fold out
of bust dart. edge. excess and fill in spread area.
Center Front

Center Front

Center Front
Cut off.

Side Front
Bring together the lines of the dart waist & hips tracing cloth as needed. If seams need
you wish to eliminate, and tape them to be re-drawn, use a French curve to
together.This will further open the Use your mock-up to perfect the smoothly connect the areas.
bust dart. Fill in the expanded dart lower-body fit by pinning out any If you’ve made a number of adjust-
with pattern tracing cloth and tape in excess or releasing seams where ments to your pattern, consider
place (8). needed.Transfer the adjustments to making another mock-up to test and
the paper pattern, adding pattern tweak the changes for a perfect fit.
True the dart end by pinning the dart
together, folding the dart toward its
finished direction, and trimming the
excess tissue (9).
For princess-seam dresses, remove
excess armhole fabric at the upper resources
edge of the side-front seam. Make a Look for the following books at your local library, bookstore or fabric store.
Fabulous Fit by Judith Rasband; Fairchild Press, 1994.
neckline adjustment similar to the
Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen; Rodale Press, 1998.
dart method: Pin out the extra, mark

Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina; Taunton
along the pins, and transfer the marks
Press, 2003.
to the pattern. Slash the new dart and

Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; Palmer/Pletsch, 1998.
the front and side-front starting at the
bust apex, again leaving a hinge of
tissue. Bring the dart lines together, Vogue Sewing; Butterick Publishing Co., 2000. Z
spreading the front and side front. Fill
in the spread area with tissue, and
tape in place (10).

sewNews 20
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