Training Your Dog

Essential Methods To Train Your Dog Yourself

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 Table of Contents
SO YOU WANT TO TRAIN YOUR DOG ................................................ 4
KEY BENEFITS OF OBEDIENCE TRAINING ................................................................ 5
PRE-TRAINING GUIDELINES .................................................................................... 8

PUPPY TRAINING: LEASH WALKING ................................................. 11

THE THREE-STEP GUIDE: ....................................................................................... 12

THE “SIT” COMMAND........................................................................ 15

THE THREE-STEP GUIDE: ....................................................................................... 17

THE “DOWN” COMMAND ................................................................. 20

THE TWO-STEP GUIDE ........................................................................................ 22

WHY DOESN'T YOUR DOG COME WHEN CALLED? ........................................... 26
THE COMPREHENSIVE SIX-STEP GUIDE: ............................................................... 30

THE “STAY” COMMAND .................................................................... 35

THE THREE-STEP GUIDE: ....................................................................................... 36

THE “HEEL” COMMAND .................................................................... 40

THE COMPREHENSIVE EIGHT-STEP GUIDE: ........................................................... 41

THE “GO TO” COMMANDS ............................................................... 44
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 THE NINE-STEP GUIDE: ........................................................................................ 45

THE “LEAVE IT” COMMAND .............................................................. 48

THE SEVEN-STEP GUIDE: ...................................................................................... 49

THE “STAND” COMMAND ................................................................. 54

THE SIX-STEP GUIDE ............................................................................................ 54

EVERYONE’S FAVORITE: “FETCH”..................................................... 59

THE FIVE-STEP GUIDE .......................................................................................... 60

DOG TOILET TRAINING ..................................................................... 64

DOG PUPPY TRAINING...................................................................... 67

DOG TRAINING EQUIPMENT ............................................................. 70

TRAINING OLDER DOG ..................................................................... 72

YOU’RE READY TO MOVE ON TO GREATER THINGS! ...................... 74

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So You Want To Train Your Dog
Dogs are among the most popular family pets around the
globe. They have been known for their sense of loyalty,
compassion and most of all their ability to be trained
more than any other popular pet. Dogs can be taught a
myriad of tricks and behaviors ranging from very basic
ones like sitting, begging and going outside to do their
business to extremely complex tricks like acrobatics and
scent recognition.

Every dog is different so training is never a

guaranteed experience but just about any canine can be
trained if you have the will and the desire. In this book
I’m going to explore the most basic training methods that
can be used on all or most dogs, usually without fail. I’m
going to emphasis positive reinforcement training as it is
not only effective but much safer than alternative
methods that have been used throughout the years. Due
to the short nature of this book we will probably not
venture into theatrical tricks or acrobatics; it’s always
smart to start with a good foundation and that begins
with obedience training.

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Obedience training is a general term which can be
achieved through the many various dog training
techniques. Regardless of which training technique you
choose to employ, your techniques should build or
strengthen a healthy and appropriate relationship
between you and your dog.

Training opens up a clear line of communication

between you and your dog. This includes you knowing
what to expect of your dog in all circumstances, and your
dog understanding and respecting what is expected of
him/her. Dog Training for Obedience lays down a set of
rules or boundaries which educates your dog to become a
responsible member of society. Including how to relate to
other dogs, animals and people, basic manners and how
to behave in any situation. Lastly it establishes the
groundwork which assists in preventing the development
of unacceptable problem behavior - such as jumping up,
barking, chewing, digging etc.

Key Benefits of Obedience Training

Dog training for obedience is the very best thing you can
do for the relationship you enjoy with your dog. Basic
obedience training makes life simple to your dog and

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eliminates confusion. Your dog will know his place in the
world and understand right from wrong. Dogs really
appreciate this black and white view of the world.

Training done right is fun and rewarding for both you

and your dog. You'll have a happy, relaxed and confident
dog who you can take anywhere and will be a pleasure to
be around. Greater freedom can also be extended to your
dog, as he'll be more trustworthy when obedience
trained.

An obedience trained puppy or dog is a much safer

dog. If your dog dashes out the front door you will still
have voice control over him. You will be able to call on
one of your obedience training commands like "come"
"down" or "sit". This is very reassuring for any dog lover.

You gain trust and mutual respect with your dog. He

understands what is expected of him and knows that you
will always be fair and consistent with this. When your
dog is trained in obedience he will be fine around friends
and kids under supervision.

Training also meets some of the most important

rudimentary needs your dog has like exercise, mental
stimulation, spending time with you and providing
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activities to keep your canine friend happy. Dog training
for obedience greatly reduces the risk of being locked in
a dominance struggle with your dog. You'll be his strong
and always fair leader, who he'll respect and look to for
guidance. Obedience training is a step by step process
which you build upon over time. It creates a foundation
for your dog to learn additional skills and training
commands. Throughout this process your dog will be
gaining confidence along the way.

It’s A Lack Of Training That’s Dangerous!

It's an unfortunate reality that untrained dogs are the
major cause for puppies and dogs ending up in animal
shelters all over the world. This is good for nobody,
especially the poor dogs. Your dog can't ever be really
close with you and your family. By this I mean that your
dog won't be involved in family outings, instead spending
much of his time alone in the yard. This can bring on
numerous behavioral problems and can be a real pest for
you, and even your neighbors. Your dog can be unsafe
around people, other animals and on the roads.

It is a common trait for untrained dogs to challenge your

leadership or authority. Obedience trained dogs will also
try to test you out in this manner. But when you are
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proficient in obedience training you'll have the tools to
deal with it. Constantly (but not effectively) your dog will
be yelled at and pushed further away from you and your
family.

Pre-Training Guidelines
You'll find proven training techniques for specific
obedience commands by selecting from the list below.
These are some general tips to keep in mind that hold
true in any dog training for obedience situation:

• Praise and reward your dog when he does what you

ask of him, give an appropriate correction when he
doesn't do what he has been taught to do. The key is
to find the right balance for your dog.
• Don't expect your dog to just know this stuff straight
away. Repetition of the command and the action is
crucial. Believe in what you are doing and stick to it.
• Always be consistent (this includes everybody who
lives with your dog), make it easy for your dog. Give
him a simple decision to make and make it clear to
him which way is acceptable and which way is
unacceptable - provide instant feedback.

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• Never correct or punish your dog for not doing
something he has not been properly taught to do -
be realistic and fair.
• Make your training sessions short, sharp and fun -
for you and your dog. This is where many dog
training schools fall down.
• Take it slow, master one easy command to start with
then move on and build upon it. Continue to
mentally challenge and stimulate your dog
throughout the training process.
• You're the best person to perform these tasks with
your dog. Your dog has to live with you, you are his
pack and you must be the person he looks to for
leadership and who he respects.
• Test or proof the obedience commands in different
situations, places and with added distractions.
• Incorporate obedience training into your daily routine
- your dog could perform a "sit" before you give him
his dinner, or a "down stay" when you go get the
mail.
• Never try to correct your dog if you don't catch him
in the act of doing wrong, timing your correction is
all important.

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• Find out what motivates your dog, this will be an
important tool in your training sessions.

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Puppy Training: Leash Walking
While the previous three commands are good to start at
any age, there are some things that you need to start as
early as possible so your puppy can grow up with these
habits. One of the first things you need to teach your
young puppy is how to behave on a leash. It is a crucial
skill to master for both you and your dog's future. After
training a puppy to walk on a leash they are much safer
and more manageable, plus it means walking is an
experience you can both look forward to and enjoy.

If you follow the steps outlined below you should

have your puppy leash trained within a couple of weeks.
Some puppies will get it down in a matter of days and
some will take much longer but just about any dog can
learn the basics so never give up. Don't just expect your
puppy to know this stuff! Your goal is to clearly
communicate to your dog, what is acceptable behavior on
the leash, and what is not.

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The Three-Step Guide:

Step 1: Collar Familiarity

This first step can begin as soon as your puppy arrives at
his new home. All it involves is getting your young pup
familiar with and comfortable wearing a collar. A simple
light weight leather collar is ideal for this task. Place it on
your puppy when you feed him or as you are playing, this
provides a bit of a distraction from the collar. He'll
probably roll around trying to dislodge it, or try his best
to scratch it off. When he is doing this it is important that
you don't take it off him. Wait till he has settled down
and forgotten about it before you take it off.

Step 2: Leash Familiarity

Once your puppy is happy wearing his new collar, it is
time to introduce the leash. Same thing again here, you
just want to get him comfortable with the leash, and to
show him the leash is not to be feared. Any light weight,
thin leash is fine for this step. You can buy your puppy a
fancy leather leash after he is properly leash trained if
you choose. All you need to do is clip the leash onto his
collar, let him check it out and drag it around the house

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(always under your supervision). He'll forget about it
after a while.

Step 3: In-Depth Leash Training

Now that your puppy is comfortable in his collar and with
the leash, it is time to pick up the other end of the leash.
Make these first leash training sessions short, sharp and
fun. At this early stage you will probably find that your
puppy loves to follow you around everywhere - use this
to your advantage. To start with just walk around the
house with the leash in hand, and your puppy trotting
alongside you. When he is walking along on a loose leash
give him plenty of praise, petting and even some treats.

When he strains on the leash, stop immediately.

Don't yank him back over to you with the leash, just call
him back over to you and praise him when he comes.
Never ever keep walking when your puppy is pulling on
the leash, this only rewards his behavior and reinforces
the habit. Your puppy has to learn that when he pulls on
the leash, he gets nowhere. If he wants to continue
walking, it has to be by your side on a loose leash. The
same rule applies if your puppy sits down when you are
walking. Don't yank him forward towards you, just call

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him over and reward him when he arrives. Then set off
walking again with your puppy by your side.

This method of training a puppy to walk on a leash is

suited to very young puppies, it requires no pulling from
you or your dog. The result is a nice loose leash hanging
down between you and your dog. All it takes to achieve
this is to follow the above steps, then apply some
patience and persistence.

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The “Sit” Command
Training your dog to sit on command is a good place for
you and your dog to start your obedience training. It's a
nice easy command which your puppy or dog will master
very quickly. This will increase your dog's confidence and
provide a foundation on which to build more advanced
skills and commands.

Another benefit of training your dog to sit is that it

gives you a good alternate behavior to request of your
dog. If your lovely dog likes to greet visitors to your
home by jumping up all over them, or charges out the front
door every time it opens, you can gain control of him by
applying your "sit" command.

You can start with this obedience command as soon

as you bring your new puppy home, or any time after
that. Before you start training your dog to sit (or any
other obedience command) ensure that your dog is
confident and comfortable around you - lets you touch
him, gives you his attention etc.

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General Rules To Remember When Training Your
Dog To Sit
• Keep your training sessions short, ten minutes is
plenty to begin with.
• Any time is a good time to practice really, you don't
have to structure all your lessons. Incorporate the
training into your daily routine. Get your dog to sit
before you feed him or make him sit before you
throw his ball at the park. When applied in this
manner obedience training will be fun in your dog's
mind, and rewarding.
• Make it perfectly clear to your dog what you are
asking of him - what you want him to do.
• Make training your dog to sit fun, don't make it feel
like a chore, for you or your dog.
• Training sessions should be full of consistent
repetition, praise and positive reinforcement.
• Don't expect your dog to immediately learn this, or
any other obedience command and then never forget
it. It's up to you to reinforce the meaning of your
command through repetition and consistency
throughout your dog's life.

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 • Gradually phase out the food rewards you may use
in the learning period of a new command. Giving a
food treat or reward every now and then doesn't hurt
your dog though, even if he respects your commands
without one.
• When training your dog to sit for the first time, make
it easy for him/her to succeed. Start your training
sessions in a familiar environment to your dog, free
from other distractions. Master the command in this
setting, then slowly make it harder for your dog. Add
other variables, throw a challenge out to your dog
such as taking the training session to the park or
increase the duration of the sit.

The Three-Step Guide:

Step 1: Puppy Connection
This first training technique is great for young puppies.
When you are with your pup and you see him about to sit
or in the act of sitting, say "sit" in a clear and firm tone.
As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor, give him
praise and maybe a bit of a scratch behind the ear. In
your dog’s mind you are building an association between
your verbal "sit" command and the act of him sitting.

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Most puppies make this connection very quickly. Before
long you will be able to say "sit" at any time, and your
puppy will understand what you are asking of him.
Remember to always reward and praise your pup as soon
as his behind hits the floor. Your pup will love it, he'll be
thinking "all I have to do is sit down and I get attention,
treats and praise!"

Step 2: “Off Leash” Training

For older puppies and dogs this training technique works
every time. With your dog standing right in front of you,
grab a small tasty treat in your hand. Guide the treat
from his nose level up over his head, the treat should be
a few centimeters away from your dog at all times. Your
inquisitive dog will follow the treat up with his nose and
at the same time his rear end will hit the ground. As soon
as his behind hits the ground give him the treat and
lavish him with praise. If your dog backs away or jumps
up at the treat you are taking your hand too far back
over his head, or holding it too far away from his nose.
Repeat this step until your dog gets it, then you can
introduce the verbal part of the command. Just before
you begin to move your hand (the one with the treat in
it) say "sit". Your dog will soon respond to your verbal
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"sit" command without you even moving your hand.
Remember to practice/reinforce this command at any
time throughout the day, in any situation.

Step 3: “On Leash” Training

If your dog doesn't respond to the methods outlined
above, or if you prefer to use a collar and leash in your
training, this technique will do the trick. Stand next to
your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the
leash straight up, directly above the collar. At the same
time gently press down on your dog’s back (down near
his hips) and say "sit". As soon as your dog is in the
sitting position, reward and praise him. Within no time
you won't need to press down on your dog’s back or even
hold the leash up. He will understand that your "sit"
command means that you require him to plant his
backside on the ground. And he'll be happy to do it for
you because he knows that he receives praise and
attention when he does.

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The “Down” Command
The down command is the next lesson to teach in your
dog obedience training schedule. It should be taught as
soon as you and your dog have mastered the sit
command. The down command is a fundamental
ingredient of your overall dog obedience training
program. It provides the foundation for many other
advanced commands/skills and establishes you as the
leader in the relationship you share with your dog. The
reason for this is that the laying down position is a
submissive and somewhat vulnerable position for your
dog to be in, especially when you are standing tall over
the top of your dog.

The down command is a very handy tool you will

come to rely on in many situations. Popping your dog
down into the lying down position is great for times when
you need to go into a shop or for occasions when there
are small children around. It can take a bit of practice to
reach this level, but it is worth the effort.

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General Rules for Learning The Down Command
When you are in the learning phase of teaching the down
command, start out by making it simple for your dog,
then slowly turn up the difficulty level.

• Move your training sessions to a public place.

• Increase the time you keep your dog in the down
position.
• Bounce a ball around your dog when he is in the
lying position, or scatter some food around him. The
idea is that your "down" command will be so strong
in your dog's mind, that none of these other
distractions matter. He can only get up to chase the
ball or eat the treats when you release him from the
down command.

What you are trying to achieve with the down command

is to have your dog quickly get down into the laying
position, belly touching the ground and his front legs
extended out in front.

In a familiar environment to your dog with no

distractions, let’s get started!

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The Two-Step Guide

Step 1: Off-Leash Training

Grab your dog’s favorite tasty treat and hold it a couple
of centimeters in front of his/her nose. Move your hand
straight down to the ground. Your dog should follow it
down (you can praise and encourage him down). As soon
as his belly hits the ground, with his legs out in front,
lavish him with praise and give the treat. Repeat this
action over and over in short sharp training sessions.

When your dog is "getting it" and going down right

away, you can add the verbal part of the command. I use
"down" other people use "lay" or "drop", just choose the
one you are comfortable with and stick to it (make it a
one word command only). Add your command just before
you start to move the treat towards the ground. This step
is all about building an association in your dog's mind
between the verbal "down" command and the act of him
laying down.

The idea is that eventually, after plenty of repetition

and praise your dog will only require your verbal
command, and not the treat in your hand to lure him
down. Also, in time you will be able to start the command
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not only from the sitting position but from standing and
in any situation you and your dog are in.

• When your dog is responding well to your verbal

command, introduce some other variables which
make the down command a little more challenging.
Try the command as you go about your daily
business, around other people or dogs and increase
the duration of the command.

Step 2: On-Leash Training

Put your preferred collar and leash on your dog - I just
use a nice leather buckle collar when teaching the down
command.

• Place your dog into the sitting position and stand or

kneel right next to him.
• Basically you are trying to guide or coax your dog
into the down position. How you do this depends on
the size and co-operation level of your dog.
• Always say your "down" command first, then
immediately guide your dog down into the lying
position. Grab hold of the leash and gently pull your
dog’s head down, at the same time guide him down
by pressing down between his shoulder blades with

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 the palm of your hand. You can also lift up your
dog’s front legs and extend them out in front of him,
find the method which works best for you. Praise and
encourage your dog all the way down. Then of
course as soon as he's in the down position make it
clear to him that you are happy with him and that he
has done a good job.
• After lots of repetition your dog will respond to your
verbal command only. Then try the command when
your dog is in the standing position and in other
settings. Make the command a little more
challenging by adding some distractions and
increasing the time he is required to stay in the
down position.

Whichever method you choose to teach your dog the

down command be consistent and keep at it. When you
are happy with your dog getting into the down position
you will probably want to add a release command to it.
This means that when you issue your down command,
your dog goes straight down and is not permitted to get
up until you issue another command. You can use "away"
or "off you go" for this purpose.

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The “Come” Command
The “Come” or “Come Here!” command is probably the
most important obedience command you will ever teach
your puppy or older dog. At some point in time you will
no doubt rely on it to guide your dog away from serious
danger.

Apart from being essential for safety reasons, when

your dog has mastered the dog training “come”
command he/she can be allowed greater freedom in
many situations. Like when you are down at the beach or
out hiking your dog can go off exploring on him own but
will always be alert and ready to respond to your come
command. This gives you peace of mind and is very
reassuring.

Your ultimate goal when teaching the dog training

come command (sometimes called recall) is to receive an
immediate response from your dog upon hearing your
command, every time, regardless of what else is
happening in the area at that time.

Let’s not kid ourselves though, this type of response

is not always easy to achieve. The dog training come

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command can take a lot of work, and the truth is that it
is very difficult for some dogs to get 100% right. For
certain breeds and dogs that love to chase or have a
strong scent drive the come command actually works
against their natural instincts.

Don't let this put you off though, you can succeed
using the techniques outlined below. Basically, you can
teach the fast come command as soon as you get your
new puppy (the earlier the better) or older dog, and
you'll be reinforcing it every time you are with your dog
throughout his/her life.

Why Doesn't Your Dog Come When

Called?
These are the most common reasons why our lovely dogs
seemingly ignore us and don't come when we call out to
them.

• Your dog does not understand what the "come"

command means, he simply doesn't know what you
are requesting him to do.
• Your dog may have been allowed to get away with
disobeying your come command in the past and was

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 not held accountable for him actions (or lack of
action!).
• Your dog may believe that following the scent trail of
a squirrel or continuing to romp around with other
dogs at the park is more appealing than coming back
to you.
• Maybe your dog has responded well to your
command in the past but was inadvertently punished
for him good behavior. This could mean that you
called him over then immediately locked him in a
crate, or called him over and plonked him straight
into a soapy bath (which he hates!).

General Guidelines for the “Come” Command

• Never under any circumstances punish your dog
when he comes back to you. Even if your dog seems
to take an eternity to respond to you and you've got
smoke coming out of your ears through frustration,
it's important that you don't get angry with your
dog. She'll associate your anger with the last action
he did - which was coming to you.
• Your goal is to make coming to you a more attractive
option to your dog than any other alternative action.

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• Never let your dog off leash in public before you
have your dog responding very well to your come
command. Your dog has to work his way up to this
privilege - see the steps involved in the dog training
come command below.
• Your come command should be something your dog
looks forward to hearing, something he has a
positive association with. You do this by making it
wonderful each he comes to you, make it worth his
while. Certainly do not only use the command to call
your dog over to snap the leash back on after an off
leash run or call his away from fun.
• Incorporate the come command training into your
daily activities. Use it to call your dog over for his
dinner or call him over at any time just to give him a
scratch behind the ear or a tasty treat.
• When you are teaching your dog the come command
off leash and your dog doesn't respond, don't chase
after him, first try waiting for him. If you do have to
go and retrieve him don't punish him when you catch
up with him, just go home or start your training
session again, this time on leash.

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 • Never call your dog in situations you know your dog
won't come to you. You don't want your dog to think
that sometimes it is ok if he doesn't respond to your
"come" command. It has to be every time and your
dog must never get away with not respecting it.
• As with all obedience commands start your training
sessions out easy, master one step then move on
and build upon it. Challenge your dog along the way,
but don't move too quickly. Your dog will gain
confidence all the way along this process.

Depending on what level you and your dog are up to in

your obedience training, you can apply one or all of the
steps outlined below. I've found that if you apply
repetition, reinforcement and patience to these training
techniques, you and your dog will achieve great results.

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The Comprehensive Six-Step Guide:
Step: 1. Young puppies love to follow you around
and often bound up to you with great delight - use
this to your advantage. At this early stage all you
need to do is make it clear to your puppy that you
are happy to see him each time he comes to you.
Make it a very pleasant and rewarding experience
every time.

Step: 2. The next step is to introduce the verbal

"come" command so that your dog connects its use
with the act of coming to you. Start inside with no
distractions around, crouch down or kneel, then in a
friendly and welcoming voice say "Macy come"
(Macy's my little Shih Tzu puppy), you can even
wave a tasty treat around to lure your dog over if
necessary. When your puppy (or older dog) gets to
you, immediately praise and reward him effort.
Repeat this exercise many times throughout the day
to reinforce the connection.

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Step: 3. If you have someone else there to help, you
can now introduce the "back and forth" game.
Position yourself at one side of the room and your
helper on the other side. Call your dog over "Macy
come" (only once, but you can encourage him over),
then reward when he arrives, next your helper calls
him over and rewards him when he arrives. This
game is a lot of fun for your dog and teaches your
dog to respect the "come" command from a person
other than you. You can extend this exercise into a
game of hide and seek by going into a different room
to your partner, call your dog and let him find you.
Make it worth him while when he does track you
down - most dogs love this game.

Step: 4. Now you are confident your dog

understands and is responding quickly to your
"come" command you can reinforce it in different
environments and situations. Put your dog on a leash
(just the one you take him on walks with) and head
outside. Call your dog with the same "come"
command and walk backwards, when he comes close
to you give him a treat and a nice scratch behind the

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 ear. Practice this at various stages throughout your
normal walk, don't forget to always praise your dog's
good work!

Step: 5. The next step you can take is similar to step

4 but this time clip a long line on instead. This is a
lightweight piece of rope which you can buy at pet
shops or from hardware and camping stores. To start
with put the long line on in a familiar environment
(like your yard) and then you can progress to public
places (like the dog park) when you are ready. The
long line just trails along behind your dog (she will
forget it is there after a while), he will feel that he
has complete freedom, but in reality you can catch
him whenever you please. Continue to call your dog
over "come" and praise him when he does, then
send him on him way again. Please note that the
trailing long line is not used to "reel your dog in", it's
there as a precautionary measure to stop your dog
bolting away from you. It's very hard for any dog to
outrun you with the trailing leash clipped on, and
hopefully you won't need to be chasing your dog

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 anyway.

Step: 6. Next you can challenge your dog with a fun

game. Again you should introduce this game in a
safe confined area free from distractions, then
progress from there. You need your helper again for
this exercise. Stand about 50 feet from your helper,
with your dog wandering around without a leash
(you can have a tab leash on if you choose). Then
throw a ball so it lands near your helper. As soon as
the ball leaves your hand say, "Macy come!", by
doing this you are giving your dog a choice to make.
he can either come to you as requested (which you
would reward him for) or set off after the ball. If he
decides the ball is a better option, your helper leans
down and picks it up before he arrives. Your helper
just holds onto the ball and ignores your dog. When
your dog decides it's time to go back to you, just
give him a bit of a pat, but don't make a fuss. It's a
good idea to mix it up a bit and throw the ball
without issuing your "come" command at times, just
let your dog get the ball.

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If at any time while working through these steps
your dog doesn't seem to be "getting it" just take it
back a step and work on an easier level.

34
The “Stay” Command
After you and your dog have mastered the sit and down

commands, the logical extension on them is training your

dog to stay. Really when you think about it your sit and
down commands aren't much value if your dog merely
gets into those positions and then bounces back up
straight away. That's why I like to add the stay
command, although some dog trainers believe it to be an
unnecessary extra command. Their theory being that
when they request that their dog sits or goes into the
down position, the dog should stay in that position until
they are told otherwise. For those of you choose to use
the stay command - read on.

Training a dog to stay can be difficult at first. In a

way it goes against what your dog is used to (following
you around) and also his/her natural instincts (being
close to their pack). With this in mind keep the stay
command very simple to begin with and build upon your
dog’s successes slowly.

Once you have trained your dog to hold a reliable

stay in any situation you will find it handy on many
occasions. It's a great behavior to request when visitors

35
come to your home, if you need to duck inside a shop or
if you have a dog who likes to bolt out the front door.

Right let's get started - it's a good idea to first train

your dog to stay when he/she is calm and not all hyped
up - after a walk is a good time. Your first training
session should be in a familiar environment to your dog,
free from any distractions and should only last for a few
minutes.

The Three-Step Guide:

Step 1: Position Training

Put your dog into the position you would like him/her to
stay in (use your sit, down or stand commands) and
stand directly in front of him. After about 1 or 2 seconds,
if your dog is still in the position you requested, give him
some praise and a treat. You are rewarding the behavior
you are looking for which is a stay, even if it is only 1
seconds worth to start with. As soon as you give your
praise and treat, the behavior is over (this is your signal
for your dog to release from his stay) so it is fine if your
dog moves off. Then you begin the process again from
the start, this time maybe hold your praise and treat off
for 3 or 4 seconds. Just take it slowly and if your dog
36
breaks out of the stay at any time before you have given
him the release command, simply say "No", don't give
the treat and start the process again.

Step 2: Verbalize
The next step is to add a verbal command and hand
signal to step 1. It goes like this - once again stand
directly in front of your dog and place him in the position
you would like him to stay in. Now as soon as he is in the
desired position say "stay" and at the same time hold
your hand out in front of you, with your palm facing out
towards your dog's nose (like a stop sign motion). Now
after waiting a second or two praise and reward your dog
for staying in this position (sit-stay or down-stay etc.). As
was the case in step 1 you can now repeat this process
over and over, gradually increasing the time between
your "stay" command and your praise and treat. What
you are doing is building an association in your dog's
mind between your verbal "stay" command and the act of
staying in the one spot.

Step 3: Distraction Training

You've now got the stay command sorted - in its most
basic form anyway. It's now time to add some other
variables and build upon it. Many trainers label this
37
proofing stage as the three D's - Duration, Distance and
Distractions. Up until now (in steps 1 and 2) you have
been working in a familiar environment free from
distractions and you've just been standing right in front
of your dog. Let's mix it up a little, adding one new
variable at a time. Start out by issuing your "stay"
command with your hand signal, now take a step
backwards, pause, and then step back towards your dog.
If your dog has remained in his sit-stay or down-stay,
praise him and give him a tasty treat. Continue to repeat
this process, gradually increasing the amount of steps
you take back - always remember to return back to your
dog before you reward him. Keep in mind what it is you
are actually rewarding him for (the stay) and if he gets
up to move away he shouldn't be receiving a reward or
treat. The next challenge you can add to the stay
command is to move your training session to a different
location, possibly somewhere with a few distractions such
as other people or animals. Remember take it slowly and
only add one new variable at a time. Another good idea is
to practice your stays anytime throughout the day. For
example make your dog "stay" when you go out to collect
the mail or "stay" when you are preparing his dinner.

38
A game you can play with your dog to reinforce the
"stay" command is hide and seek. This game is heaps of
fun and all you do is place your dog in a down-stay then
run off and hide. When you are ready, sing out your
release command and your dog will set off to track you
down.

Note: When training a dog to stay do not keep your dog

in a sit-stay for more than 2 or 3 minutes. If you need
your dog to stay for longer periods use the down-stay.

39
The “Heel” Command
Firstly I should say that teaching a dog to heel is a
different skill than training a dog to walk on a loose
leash. Training a dog to heel relies on getting and holding
the attention of your dog. The heel can be called upon for
short periods (like when other dogs or children are
around) but is not suitable for your long daily walks.

Dog Training - The Heel

When your dog is in the heeling position it means he/she
is virtually pinned to your left leg (not touching though)
and must stay there until released by you. Heeling is a
difficult skill for your dog to master, it must be taught
slowly and built piece by piece. I find that short, sharp
and intense training sessions work best with my dogs.
This is because learning to heel requires heaps of
concentration from your dog and lots of repetition - don't
expect too much too soon. Start out simple, set your dog
up to succeed and don't move too quickly.

40
The Comprehensive Eight-Step Guide:
Ok let’s have a go at building a good solid and reliable
heel. You can go through these steps off leash (if
possible) or on leash. The leash is there for security only,
it is not used to drag your dog around or hold him in
position. The idea is to condition your dog to want to be
by your side rather than to force him to be there. This is
the method I use to teach my dogs to heel - as with
building any obedience command, start in an
environment that is familiar to your dog and free from
distractions.

Step: 1. Stand with your dog closely next to your left

leg, both of you facing the same way.
Step: 2. Have one of your dog’s favorite treats in
your left hand, hold it up near your waist, not
directly in front of your dog’s nose. Now say "Harry"
(your dog’s name) to get his attention and to gain
eye contact. Immediately take two steps forward
then stop. If your dog moves with you and is still in
the heel position enthusiastically praise him and give
the treat.
Step: 3. As soon as your dog swallows his reward
from step 2 repeat the heeling process again, then
41
 do it again. Say "Harry", take two steps forward
offering encouragement to your dog ("come on" or
"that's a good boy"), stop, praise and treat. Only
ever give the reward when your dog is still in the
heel position.
Step: 4. At this point your dog will be very interested
and attentive. It's important to note that you are
using the treat to reward his behavior rather than to
lure or bribe him.
Step: 5. If at any time your dog lags behind or
forges ahead of you hold off with your praise and
reward. Simply say "“No”" and start again.
Step: 6. Continue to practice your heel training and
when 2 steps forward becomes easy for your dog,
increase to 4 steps, then 6 steps and so on... Keep
up your encouragement, praise and tasty rewards.
Step: 7. When your dog is reliably heeling for 10 or
more steps it's time to
Step: 8. You've now got the very basic heel going
well and on cue, it's time to build upon it and add
some more variables. Introduce the following
elements one at a time and make it as easy as
possible for your dog to succeed. Mix it up - continue

42
 with your enthusiasm, encouragement, praise and
treats.
• Walk slowly, speed up, stop, speed up etc...
• Take your training session to a new location.
• Add some left and right turns and then some
obstacles.
• Practice your heeling around other people and
animals.
• Increase the duration of the heel.
• Roll a ball in front of you - what does your dog do?

That's the heel training process I follow and have

experienced good results with. Always remember to keep
your training sessions fun and don't expect too much
from your young puppies, it will take some time.

43
The “Go To” Commands
The Go To Your Spot command a fantastic behavior to
teach your dog.

I find the "Go To Your Bed" command to be one of the

most useful and most used of all of the dog obedience
commands. It is great for practical and also safety
reasons - I find myself calling on this command in many
situations everyday including:

• When visitors arrive at my home. Instead of my dogs

getting all excitable and jumping all over guests I
use the "Go To Your Bed" command to redirect their
behavior.
• If a dog is barking excessively you can call on this
obedience command which acts as an alternate
behavior for your dog to perform.
• When me and my family sit down for a meal, I send
my dogs to their spot to give us a bit of space.

One thing to always keep in mind when applying the Go

To Your Spot command is that you don't want it to feel
like a punishment to your dog. In other words don't
always use it when your dog is in trouble, try to make it a
positive, fun place for your dog to retreat to.
44
 Follow the steps below to build the “Go To Your
Spot” command slowly. Start out so it's easy for your dog
to understand, then gradually make it harder by adding
other variables (duration, distance and distractions).

The Nine-Step Guide:

Step: 1. Choose your designated spot (make
sure it's a nice and comfortable place), attach
a label to it ("Go To Your Bed" "Go To Your
Mat" etc.) and stick with it.
Step: 2. Stand with your dog about 1-2 meters
from the chosen spot. Say "Go To Your Bed"
while pointing towards the spot. At the same
time throw one of your dog’s very favorite
treats onto the bed. Your dog is sure to rush
over to the bed to collect the tasty treat. As
soon as he/she collects the treat be sure to
praise him enthusiastically.
Step: 3. Repeat step 2 many times to reinforce
the behavior. This also builds a connection in
your dog’s mind between you saying, "Go To
Your Bed" and pointing with the act of going
over to him bed. At this point it's important to
note that the treat is acting as a lure to entice
45
 your dog over to the bed - this will eventually
change.
Step: 4. Now gradually increase the distance
between where you and your dog are standing
and the bed. Continue to practice "Go To Your
Bed", point, throw the treat and then praise.
Step: 5. It's now time to change the job of the
treat from being a lure to being a reward for
the desired behavior. It goes like this - say
"Go To Your Bed" while pointing towards the
bed, but this time do not throw the treat. By
now your dog will most probably understand
that your verbal command and pointing
means that you want him to go to him spot. If
he responds to your command by going to
him bed you then give the treat (rewarding
the behavior) and lavish him with praise. If
your dog doesn't "get it" go back a step by
using the treat as a lure again.
Step: 6. Continue step 5 over and over again.
You can practice at any time throughout the
day, it doesn't have to be a set training time.
Also mix up the place where you request your

46
 dog to "Go To Your Bed". Say it close to the
bed, then further away and eventually even
from a different room (don't move too fast
though).
Step: 7. You can now add other elements to this
command. One at a time you could add a
distraction such as having another person in
the room bouncing a ball or put your dog’s
food bowl down then request the "Go To Your
Bed".
Step: 8. You may choose to add the dog
obedience down command to this exercise.
Step: 9. After a while you should fade and vary
your rewards. You can give the treat every
second or third time your dog goes to his bed,
or you could throw a ball for him to chase as
the reward instead of the tasty treat.

Remember to keep it fun and build the "Go To Your Spot"

command piece by piece over a period of a couple of
weeks. If you are consistent and show a little patience,
you and your dog are sure to achieve results.

47
The “Leave It” Command
The "Leave It" dog obedience training command is a very
useful behavior to teach your puppy or older dog. You'll
be surprised how often you find yourself calling on this
command.

The "Leave It" command is great in many day to day

situations. If you are out on a walk and your dog tries to
eat animal droppings (coprophagia) off the grass or if you
catch him in the process of clutching a cookie off the
coffee table the "Leave It" command is perfect.

You can begin to teach the "Leave It" command at

any time - it's just as necessary as the other basic
obedience training commands such as sit, down, come,
stay etc.

Follow the steps below to build your "Leave It"

command. You'll end up having your dog under voice
control - no need to be yanking and pulling against your
dog with the leash.

48
The Seven-Step Guide:
First we need to build the behavior, then we'll attach our
verbal "Leave It" cue and finally we'll then generalize the
behavior.

Step: 1. In a familiar environment to your dog,

free from any distractions (other people or
animals) sit down in front of your willing dog.
Step: 2. In one hand place an ordinary "Leave
It" treat (some kibble or other plain dry treat) in
the other hand place your dog's very favorite
"jackpot!" treat (liver, hotdog, cheese etc.).
Step: 3. With the ordinary "Leave It" treat
resting on your open palm, extend your hand
out towards your dog. Don't say anything. When
your dog reaches forward to gulp down the
treat, quickly close your hand - don't let him get
it. If he withdraws his interest, immediately say
"Yes!" and give the jackpot treat from your
other hand. Alternatively, if he is really
persistent and determined to get at the kibble
treat in your closed fist, just hold it out of his
reach and ignore him.

49
Step: 4. About 10 seconds after trying Step 3,
do it again. This time if he doesn't dive straight
in after the "Leave It" treat, enthusiastically say
"Yes!", give the jackpot treat from your other
hand and give him a loving scratch behind the
ear. If he goes for the ordinary "Leave It" treat
straight away, close your fingers over it again.
He will probably look up at you in a quizzical,
puzzled manner - which is good. As soon as his
attention is off the treat say "Yes!" give the
jackpot treat from your other hand and praise
his good work.
Step: 5. Continue Steps 3 & 4 many times
(repetition and consistency are two of the vital
keys to successful dog training!). Pretty soon
your dog will catch on that if he doesn't go for
the boring old "Leave It" treat he will be
rewarded with a monster "jackpot" treat from
the other hand.
Step: 6. Now your dog understands the basic
behavior it's time to attach your verbal "Leave
It" cue. This is so we can request the behavior
whenever the need arises. Continue practicing

50
 exactly as you have been except you now say
"Leave It" just as you begin to extend your hand
(the one with the ordinary treat) towards the
dog. This step builds an association in your
dog's mind between you saying "Leave It" and
the act of him leaving an object alone.
Step: 7. Now you've got the behavior and
you've got it on cue it's time to add some other
variables. This step generalizes and proofs the
“leave it” command so we can rely on it in any
circumstance. One at a time introduce the new
elements listed below - don't move too quickly
for your dog, take it slowly.

51
 • While practicing the Leave It command hold your
hand in different positions - close to the ground, up
at your dog's eye level etc...
• Hold off with saying "Yes" and giving the jackpot
treat until your dog actually looks you in the eye.
• Put the ordinary treat straight down onto the ground
in front of your dog and say "Leave It" - if your dog
goes for the treat quickly cover it with your foot.
• Take your training sessions into other rooms and
eventually outside.
• Say "Leave It" when you are at varying distances
from your dog.
• Practice in the presence of distractions such as other
people and dogs.
• Practice when you are out on your daily walk - with
your dog on leash drop some treats on the ground
and then walk past them.

The Leave It command is very useful and not all that

difficult for your dog to learn, it won't take long to teach.
The important thing to keep in mind is that you need to
make leaving the object alone a more attractive
alternative to your dog than going for it.

52
53
The “Stand” Command
The stand command is a very handy behavior for you and
your dog to have in your repertoire. The stand command
is a behavior you will call on in many different situations.
It's great when you visit your Veterinarian or dog
groomer. You'll also call on the stand command when
bathing your dog and clipping his/her nails. It's also the
best position for your dog to be in if you require him to
stay for long periods.

As we do when teaching any new command/behavior

we always start out in a familiar place which is free from
any distractions. Make it as easy as possible for your dog
when learning the stand command - then we can throw in
some other variables.

The Six-Step Guide

The first step is to reward as many instances of the
"stand" behavior as possible - through shaping it or
simply letting is occur naturally.

To begin with you should teach the stand command when

your dog is in a sitting position and then from the laying
down position.

54
Step: 1. Grab a few tasty treats in your hand -
this will be used to lure your dog into the stand
position. Your dog's nose will target the treat in
your hand. With your dog sitting hold the treat a
few inches in front of his/her nose. Then slowly
draw it away horizontally (parallel to the
ground). There is no need to say anything to
your dog at this stage. If your dog responds to
this lure by getting up into the stand position
you should immediately reward him with a treat
and some enthusiastic praise. NOTE: If your dog
does not follow your food lure you can give him
some verbal encouragement, or give him a bit of
a prod with your finger to get him moving.

Step: 2. Continue to repeat and practice this

food targeting exercise - always reward a
desired response.

Step: 3. This next step is to get the stand

behavior without using food as a lure - you will
55
 be using the food only as a reward from now on.
You achieve this by continuing exactly as you
have been, but this time without any food in
your hand. Ok so now the process is that you
put your empty hand in front of your dog's nose
and slowly move it away horizontally. 9 out of
10 dogs will continue to follow your hand - even
without the treat. If your dog continues to
follow, you should reward immediately with a
treat from your other hand and also praise just
as you have already been doing. If your dog
does not follow your empty hand you can go
back to giving some verbal encouragement or a
bit of a prod with your finger. Once your dog is
consistently following your empty hand you can
cut back on the food reward. Put your dog on a
variable food reward schedule - reward every
second successful stand, then every third and so
on. Mix it up to keep your dog guessing.

Step: 4. Once your dog is solid with the process

in step 3 you can add your verbal command to
the stand exercise. Basically we can now get the
56
 behavior we desire (the stand), now it's time to
add the verbal cue which will trigger the
behavior. What you do is say "stand" then
continue with the same process as in step 3. The
process goes like this - say "stand", use your
hand signal, then praise and reward as soon as
your dog gets into the stand position. Repeat
this process many times - anytime throughout
the day is a good time to practice. This step
builds up the association in your dog's mind
between you saying "stand" and the act of him
standing.

Step: 5. It's now time to drop your hand signal

and any other prompting and rely on your verbal
cue only. Say "stand" and wait for your dog to
move. It is highly likely that your dog will
continue to stand just as he has been in the
previous steps. He will already have made the
connection between your verbal "stand"
command and the act of him standing. If your
dog does not move when you say "stand" your

57
 dog is not ready for this step - go back and
practice step 4 some more.

Step: 6. When you have the basic stand

command rock solid on verbal command it's
time to add some other variables. This step is all
about generalizing, strengthening and proofing
the stand command. What this means is that
you build on the basic command to make it
effective for longer periods, in a wide range of
locations and in the presence of other
distractions.

58
Everyone’s Favorite: “Fetch”
The fetch command, also known as retrieve, is one of the
most popular commands that people want to be able to
teach their dogs. A quick game of fetch is a fantastic
outlet for a dog's natural prey drive and knocks the edge
off even the most energetic of dogs. Plus it's one of the
few interactive games you and your dog can play
together - it's a brilliant way to strengthen the human-
dog bond.

Most dogs love to chase a ball and return it to you,

but many dogs need a little guidance to get the behavior
up to a satisfactory level. You'll find your dog to be a
natural or reluctant retriever at first, but after a while
most dogs love playing a game of fetch. Why wouldn't
they? It's great fun!

Teaching a rock solid and reliable retrieve takes a

few separate steps to get just right. The following steps
will teach your dog to be interested in an object, charge
after it when it is thrown, pick it up, return it straight
back to you and drop it at your feet. All without any
skylarking, sniffing, hesitation or detours!

59
The Five-Step Guide
Step 1:
Let’s start out by playing a simple and fun game. In a
small room free from any distractions, sit down on the
floor with your dog. Have a small squeaky toy in your
hand and some tasty treats in your other hand. Ideally
the toy will be one that your puppy has shown interest in.
Now toss the toy a small distance (still within your reach)
from yourself and let your puppy pounce on it - you can
encourage your puppy if need be. When your puppy
grabs the toy you should reach out and take it from
his/her mouth while saying "good puppy". As soon as you
have hold of the toy you need to replace it by feeding a
treat to your dog.

If your puppy won't let go of the toy, simply use the treat
as a bribe. Hold the treat just in front of his nose and
wait for him to drop the toy - praise your dog and give
him the treat as soon as the toy drops from his mouth.
Practice this simple game in 5 minute blocks at least a
couple of times a day. This is the crucial first step

60
towards developing a solid and reliable fetch or retrieve
in your dog.

Step 2.
Now we will continue the game we played in Step 1 but
this time we will add a release word or cue to the
exercise. As you are taking the toy from your puppy's
mouth (or when he drops it in your lap) say "thank you"
or "thanks" and immediately give the treat and praise -
just as you did in Step 1. Repeat this process many
times, you are building an association in your dog's mind
between your "thanks" cue and the act of him giving the
toy to you. After plenty of practice and continual
reinforcement (the treats) you will not have to grab the
toy from your dog's mouth, he will give it to you upon
hearing your cue word. Now we have got the basic fetch
behavior we are trying to shape - we just need to build
on it a little more.

Step 3.
Now we can slowly (very slowly) increase the distance of
the retrieve. Start out by throwing the toy a couple of
meters from you - hopefully your dog will continue to
pounce on the toy and bring it back to you for his treat.
Continue just as you have been, say your release cue
61
"thanks" and give the treat for every successful retrieve.
Important: If at any time your dog does not bring the toy
back to you do not chase him or make a fuss. Simply sit
and wait patiently until he brings it back to you - then
treat as normal. Your aim is to make it clear to your dog
that in order for the fun and games to continue he must
bring the toy back to you. If your dog doesn't bring the
toy back to you, finish up and try again later on - next
time go back to the shorter and easier retrieve game as
in Step 1.

Step 4.
Continue practicing this game of fetch over and over.
Repetition and positive reinforcement are the keys to
building and strengthening a solid retrieve. You can now
mix up the distance you throw the toy and take your
training sessions into different rooms within the house.
When you introduce a new object such as a ball (which is
what you will use for a game of fetch at the dog park) to
the game you need to start out again at a short distance
and increase the distance slowly. Remember to only ever
treat and praise your puppy when the retrieve object gets
delivered directly to you.

62
Step 5.
That's pretty much the retrieve behavior built in 4 steps.
If you like you can now add a cue at the start of the
exercise. Simply say "fetch" or "get it" just before you
throw the ball. After a while when you say your "fetch"
cue your dog will look straight up at you in anticipation of
a chase.

You can also gradually fade the treats now. The game
itself will be reward enough for your dog. Instead of a
tasty treat being your dog's motivation, the next throw of
the ball will be enough of an incentive for him to bring
the ball straight back to you.

The retrieve is a great exercise to teach most dogs and it

will only take you a couple of days to work through the 5
steps outlined above. Pretty soon you will have an eager
dog who drops the ball at your feet at any opportunity!

63
Dog Toilet Training
Unless you have a sixth sense you can't predict when and
where your dog is going to do the toilet, that is why dog
toilet training is necessary. Dogs need to learn to hold it
and go where he is supposed to as they don’t know any
different. In the wild dogs can go when and where they
please, but this is not the wild and they need to be
taught the difference.

Dog toilet training can be something of a difficult task.

Every day needs to be the same and you need to give
him constant attention when you can; this will make the
toilet training procedure a lot easier. Your training
process will take longer if you are working out of the
house quite often as your dog will need to go and the
house is the only place that he can.

When you start out dog toilet training you need to give
him a place of his own, maybe a corner of your back
room. That should be where you put his food and his bed
and his toys and cover the whole floor in newspaper.
When you leave the house make sure he is in that room
and can't get out.

64
When you are gone, he will obviously need the toilet and
will go where he is standing, but over time he will pick a
place and start to do his business in the one place, when
he starts to do that, you can then start to remove the
paper from the area furthest away from his chosen spot.
Gradually continue this until it is only a small space
available for him to go, if he misses the paper then you
are moving a little bit too fast and need to go back a step
or two until you get to as little papers as possible. When
he gets older, he will be able to control his bladder
movements a lot easier.

When you are at home spend as much time with your

dog as possible. Dog toilet training will be much easier if
you do. Every 45 minutes or so take your dog outside
and whenever he does the toilet outside make sure he is
praised very happily and excitedly with lots of
enthusiasm and do this every time that he goes outside.
He will realize that this is where he needs to go to the
toilet and when he can control his bladder a little better,
he will wait until you come to let him out. It does take a
lot of time and patience though.

Never scold your dog for doing the toilet in the house as
he does not know any better. We did the toilet in our
65
nappies until we were potty trained because there was
nothing else, we could do about it, when we needed, we
went, well dogs are the same. No dog is properly toilet
trained until he is about 6 months old, so it is a lengthy
procedure but a great one when the end results start to
show!

66
Dog Puppy Training
A new puppy in the home excites everyone especially
children but make sure you got the puppy for a good
reason and not just on a spur of the moment feeling. Like
they say dogs are for life not just for Christmas. A puppy
can bring lots of happy memories and times, but they
have a lot of training and work involved to, they are not
all fun and no work!

A puppy’s temperament depends on where the puppy has

been brought up and what type of breed he is. German
shepherds, Rottweilers, bull dogs and boxers are all
guard type dogs so tend to be very loving and protective.
Border and bearded collies tend to be herding dogs and
reared on farms and tend to be quite enthusiastic and
never sit still (be aware because they are reared on a
farm, they may be a little bit nervous around modern-day
technologies, such as bridges, loud noises etc.).
Labradors, gun dogs and pointer are all hunting dogs so
expect them to be full of energy and laughable moments.
Of course, these are just general expectations every dog
has its day and its personality!

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Puppy dog training is something that can be achieved in
a matter of weeks depending how much time and
attention you spend on it. You don’t need to train for
hours and hours a day, a few minutes several times a
day is all it takes. The first thing you need to train your
new puppy in is obedience, commands like sit, come,
heel, stay and fetch are basic enough for them to learn.
As they get older you can incorporate commands like
paw, roll over and play dead! Training a young puppy is
not as hard as you may think as they are like a blank
sheet of paper waiting to be written on. The way and
things that that they are taught will stick to them and will
influence them later on in life, although training isn’t
forever so you need spend a few minutes every day just
to keep reminding them what to do.

There are not so nice consequences involved when

puppies aren’t trained, for a start your house will
constantly be a toiler ground for them, and your furniture
will have massive holes in it. Puppies are like babies and
need to be taught the difference between right and
wrong, to do this you need some puppy dog training!

Many handlers experienced or in-experienced are turning

towards training products and aids, but training can be
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done without these methods. Just a bit of good old hard
work! A puppy may take several months to training but
when it is complete the rewards will be well worth it, but
don’t forget to top up on your training for several
minutes each day or your dog will slowly forget and you’ll
have to start all over again, with an even bigger task,
training an older dog!

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Dog Training equipment
To train your dog you need some good equipment to do
it! It's easy enough to find places that sell dog training
equipment these days. You can find stores in your local
phonebook or on the internet. The internet has
everything these days and is usually a lot less expensive.
So, I suggest having a look there first. Dog training
equipment comes in all shapes, sizes and colors so there
is something to suit everyone.

Dog training equipment can be used anywhere, at home,

at a friend’s house or even in a field in the middle of
nowhere. The equipment is usually lightweight and
portable and very easy to pack so you should have no
problems carting it around. Not only can you get dog
training equipment for dog agility, but you can also
purchase items for dog obedience.

Dog obedience items are simple things like clickers, treat

balls (which are amazing), extendable leashes and other
similar items. They are a lot easier to get than agility
items. When you decided you want to compete with your
dog you usually pick one or the other, dog agility or dog
obedience. For dog obedience you only concentrate on

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dog obedience, for dog agility you need your dog to be
obedient so there is a little bit more training involved.

Dog training equipment can be funky or old fashioned,

bright or dull it’s up to you. Many stores cater for
individual needs so you can specify what you would like
your equipment to be like. Dog training equipment is
sometimes needed for obedience when you have a
stubborn dog, and for dog agility training equipment is
essential.

Dog training equipment needn’t only be for competition

purposes. You can get equipment for fun training to.
When you want to teach your dog to come, sit and stay
and some other commands toys are always a great help.
You and your dog need to enjoy special moments
together to make a bond with each other, why not make
a bond and train at the same time? The better the bond
the more fun it will be!

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Training Older Dog
They say that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, are
they right? They are partly right. An older dog will take a
heck of a lot more training and dedication from its
handler than a younger dog will, basically because an
older dog’s mind is a lot more set in its ways. An older
dog will have passed that crucial period in its life that
influences what the dog will behave like when it is older,
therefore it already thinks it knows how to behave and
trying to teach him other ways to behave can take a lot
of time and effort.

It is not impossible, but you can’t train an old dog like

you train a puppy. You have to be a little bit stricter on
an older dog because they have a lot more intelligence
than a puppy and know how to drive you round the bend.
An older dog will more likely do something if he thinks
it’s his idea rather than yours, for example if he goes to
sit, say sit and then praise him, he will think it was his
idea and if you keep on repeating this process sooner or
later you will have him sitting on command. This process
will work for many of the commands, like fetch, come,
stay and heel.

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In saying that you may find that your older dog is
particularly easy to train, some dogs have a streak of
stubbornness which means they do not train as easily as
others, but some are a lot more susceptible to training
methods. Training an older dog will of course be difficult
but bad habits need to be broken and long-term habits
need to be stopped. Your dog will thank you for it in the
end and the end result will be well worth the trouble.

Training an older dog can be a grueling task but try

making it fun by joining a class (they are not just for
people with puppies) or try to get some support from
family or friends, invest in some training products like
toys and treats, or even go as far as a training school,
but one thing is for sure once you’ve taught your dog
what he needs to know the bond between you will grow
and you will become inseparable.

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You’re Ready To Move On To
Greater Things!

If you’ve followed this book closely you should be ready

to start teaching your dog complex tricks and behaviors
in a matter of weeks! Always remember to be patient and
always use positive reinforcement to teach your dog.
Dogs who are abused or scared into obedience often
don’t have an actual understanding of the behaviors they
learn and develop other behavioral problems that could
make them a threat to you or your family. With a little
patience and a lot of love you and your furry friend will
be enjoying each other’s company without worrying
about behavioral issues in no time!

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