Ceylon Railway Illustrated Guide

C37 C4-
CORNELL
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
Cornell University Library
DS 489.C37C4
The Ceylon government railway :a descri
3 1924 023 977 659

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OTHER
WORKS ON CEYLON
BY HENRY W. CAVE
i.
The Book Of Geyloil. An Account

of its Varied Attractions for the Visitor
and Tourist.
664 Pages. 736 Illustrations. 12s. net.
" This most exhaustive work on Ceylon, and the author, a learned graduate of Oxford,
is a
is well qualified by long residence and travel throughout the island to speak with authority.
The book is a perfect mine of information." Scottisli Geographical Magazine.
" This volume seems to contain almost everything that can be said about the island, tell-
ing the reader all he should see, describing the industries of the country, and giving practical
guidance as to expenses." The Spectator.
" It is a big name which Mr. Cave has given to his book, but he has evidently resolved
that the volume shall live up to its title. It is in fact one of the most comprehensive and
thoroughly satisfactory books we have ever seen, and no visitor to Ceylon will be able to do
—
without it." The Aberdeen Journal.
II.
Goldeil Tips. A Description of Ceylon

and its Great Tea Industry.
With 213 Illustrations from Photographs by the Author. 10s. 6d. net.
" Mr. Cave seems tohold a brief for the whole Island of Ceylon, with its varied attrac-
tions. . . . The charm of Cingalese life and nature is depicted with glowing colours and
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" Mr. H. W. Cave has given us a most fascinating and picturesque account of Ceylon.
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once to the enchanted island." Westminster Gazette.
"Mr. H. W. Cave deserves well of Ceylon. He has done an immense amount of work
in making the attractions of the Colony known to the reading public who reside in other
parts of the Kmpire. His latest work is a splendid effort."— Standard,
III.
The Ruined Cities of Ceylon.

FOURTH EDITION. 12s. net.
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—Antiquary. fascinating and beautiful book. Superlative praise is the only thing it merits."
" Written in a very pleasant and scholarly style. "—Spectator.

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IV.
Baudenkmaler aus Altester Zeit

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THE
CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
THE
CEYLON GOVERNMENT
RAILWAY
A DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED GUIDE
MAINLY EXTRACTED FROM THE AUTHOR'S
EARGER WORK "THE BOOK OF CEYLON"
BY
HENRY W. CAVE
M.A. (Oxon.), F.R.GS.
MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. AUTHOR OF "PICTURESQUE
CEYLON," " GOLDEN TIPS," " THE RUINED CITIES OF CEYLON,"
"THE BOOK OF CEYLON'"
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED

London, New York, Toronto and Meleourne. mcmx
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
First Edition, 6,000 copies
Printed July, iqio
1
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I.
II.
Introductory
Colombo
..........
...........
PAGE
i
General Description of the Ceylon Government Railway

III.
.......
IV.— The Coast Line Itinerary
— —
. 19
32
V.— The Main Line Itinerary Colombo
VI.
Royal Botanic Gardens — Randy
The Ma tale Line Itinerary . .
.....
to
.
Peradeniya
. . .
The
..116
69
VII.—The Main Line Itinerary Resumed — Peradeniya J unction

to Bandar awe la, including Adam's Peak . . . 125
VIII. The Udapussellawa Line Itinerary, including Nuwara

Eliya . . . . . . . . . .155
IX.-
to Kankesanturai ........
The Northern Line Itinerary— from Polgahawela Junction
The Kelani Valley Itinerary — Colombo

168
X.
XL The Negombo Line ......... to Yatiyantota . 215
231
MAPS AND PLANS
.....
Railway Map of Ceylon Giving Distances of Stations and their
Elevation above Sea Level
Map of the Fort of Colombo .........90
Facing 1
Map of the Town of Kandy

Map of Anuradiiapuea
........
Plan of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya
.........
. . .
m:
173
APPENDIX
Useful Information for Visitors to Ceylon
FhotolAth.S.QOSo:ioelM
THE
CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY
The attractions of Ceylon are manifold and appeal to a variety Attractions
of tastes and needs. First of all the economic conditions of Ce y' on
of the country are encouraging to the capitalist who devotes
his energies to tropical agriculture; tea, rubber, cocoa, carda-
moms, and coconuts flourish remarkably and seldom fail to
yield an abundant return to the careful investor. Man)' people
visit Ceylon in search of health, or to escape the rigours of
the European winter, and it is noticeable that the visit once
made is often repeated. As a health resort Ceylon not only
possesses a warm and equable climate, but the recommenda-
tion of complete change of scene. To the enervated European
residents of the plains of India it is a veritable paradise
they are discovering that a visit to Kandy and Nuwara Eliya
is not only a source of health but of enjoyment, and that it
restores their vanished energies without the great expenditure
of time and money involved in a voyage to Europe. To the
leisured classes who travel the attractions of Ceylon arc per-
haps the greatest, and it is satisfactory to be able to assure
them that consideration for their comfort and convenience is
always increasing. The northern section of the railway has
added immensely to the opportunities of the visitor, who can
now explore the most remarkable antiquities in the world with
a reasonable expenditure of time and in perfect comfort.
—
Every leisured taste can be gratified whether it be anti-
quarian, aesthetic, entomological, botanical or
ethnological,
sporting and when it is considered that the gratification of
;
such tastes can be accomplished in such an agreeable climate

and during a period when the very opposite conditions prevail
in Europe it is almost a wonder that any who can avail them-
selves of these opportunities fail to do so.
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Climate Not the least of its attractions are the great variety and
choice of climate that Ceylon affords. Fortunately the best
months for visiting the countrv are those which in Europe are
the most disagreeable. The recent extensions of the railway
system in rendering the ruined cities easily and comfortably
accessible have made Ceylon more than ever a desirable retreat
during winter months and if it has not yet rivalled Egypt
;
in popularity the circumstance is clue less to its climate and

attractions than its distance. For general salubrity it is
unrivalled in the East. Notwithstanding the variety of tem-
perature to be met with at various stations and elevations,
the equability of each is remarkable, and stands in great con-
trast to the fickleness of European weather. Classification of
the climate of Ceylon is easy (i.) moist and hot but tempered
:
Temf>eratur. by cool sea breezes, with a temperature of 75 to S5 F. as

in most of the maritime provinces, including the towns ol
Negombo, Colombo, Kalutara, Galle and Matara; (ii.) hot
and drv, as the north-west coast and the peninsula of Jaffna;
(iii.) humid and warm, as in the hilly regions bordering the
great mountain belt, with a shade temperature of 75 F. by
da}' and 70 F. by night; and (iv.) temperate, as in the tea
districts of the mountain zone, where the shade temperature
averages by day from to 65 F. according to elevation,
Rainfall aspect and other causes. The annual rainfall is less than
50 inches in Jaffna, the north-west, and the south-east; from
50 to 75 inches in the north-east; 75 to 100 inches in a belt
of twenty miles width surrounding the mountain zone and ;
from 100 to 200 inches in the tea-country. The occurrence of

rain can be anticipated with fair accuracy, and the seasons
for heavy downpours regularly coincide with the change of the
monsoons. From October to May north-east winds prevail ;
for the rest of the vear the south-west monsoon blows con-
tinually. To the influence of these monsoons and the uniform
temperature of the surrounding oceans the equable and tem-
perate character of the Ceylon climate is mainly due. April,
Wettest May, October and November are the wettest months. As much
months as 53 inches has been registered in Colombo during October
and November but the tourist will find the latter month not
;
unfavourable for a sojourn in Ceylon. August and September

are often delightful months in Ceylon, and although they do
not suit the traveller from Europe, thev are in favour with the
European resident of India, Burmah and the Straits Settle-
ments, who is beginning to find that a visit to Ceylon for health
and pleasure is the most profitable within his reach.
It isperhaps scarcely necessary to remark that there are no
seasons in Ceylon as we know them in Europe; the difference in
the hot districts lies between hot and a little hotter, and in more
temperate districts between cool and a little cooler. Tennent,
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 3
in a passage that cannot be improved upon, says :

" No period climate
of the year is divested of its seed-time and its harvest in some
part of the island the fruit hangs ripe on the same branches
;
that arc garlanded with opening buds. But as every plant has
its ownperiod for the production of its flowers and fruit, each Flora
month characterised by its own peculiar flora.
is As regards
the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety
of tints would be wanting which form the charm of a European
landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of
unchanging green. But, although in Ceylon there is no
revolution of seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant
exhibits colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal
woods of America. It is not the decaying leaves, but the fresh
shoots, which exhibit these bright colours, the older are still
vividly green, whilst the young are bursting forth; and the
extremities of the branches present tufts of pale yellow, pink,
crimson, and purple, which give them at a distance the appear-
ance of a cluster of flowers."
It may be useful to the intending visitor to indicate the
sort of weather he is likely to meet with at the various centres
of interest in each of the months usually chosen for visiting
Ceylon.
During December Colombo is in many respects plcasanter climate f,
than at anv other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara-

tively cool, and has an average rainfall of six inches for the
month, which serves well to keep the vegetation at its best,
and the golf links and other recreation grounds in good con-
dition. The rain seldom keeps the visitor prisoner for more
than a very few hours, while the longer intervals of fine weather
are delightful. The same conditions apply to the south coast
and to Kandy. In Nuwara Eliya the fine weather and the
wet are about equal. Anuradhapura expects wet days, but
during the fine intervals is more attractive by reason of the
lakes and pokunas being well filled with water. Jaffna is
agreeable, and its well-tilled fields look smiling and pleasant.
Januarv is on the whole a better month for the visitor. Jamia-y
The winds are dry and cool, and it is necessary in Colombo
to avoid sitting in them when heated from exercise, or sleeping
with windows open to the north. The nights are refreshing,
and early morning exercise pleasant. It is a good month for
visiting the many towns of interest on the south and south-
west coasts. Kandy is cool and delightful and admits of sleep
beneath the blanket, while in the mornings and evenings
vigorous walking can be indulged in with pleasure. Nuwara
Eliva has now a mean temperature of 56 F. Fires in the
evening are comfortable, while the early mornings are often
frosty. The rainfall here averages six inches during this month ;
but the fine days are glorious. Anuradhapura has not definitely
4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
climate arrived at its fine weather period, but is generally pleasant.
It is perhaps photographs in this
sufficient to say that all the
book illustrating the ruins of the city were taken during the
month of January. Jaffna is quite at its best and much cooler
than in the later months.
February In February Colombo is dry the nights are cloudless and
;
cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days

are bright and sunn)-, the early mornings cold, the evenings
most agreeable and the nights dewy. Nuwara Eliya is also
in its best mood, and is probably at this time as regards climate
the pleasantest spot on the earth. February is also a good
month for visiting Anuradhapura, and quite the best for trips
to Dambulla, Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa. Jaffna is also fine,
and although it is much warmer than in January it is not yet
too hot to be pleasant.
March In March the heat in Colombo increases rapidly, the earth
receiving more heat than bv radiation and evaporation.
is lost
The temperature rises to 87 F. during the day and seldom
descends below 8o° F. at night. There is consequently
amongst Europeans a general exodus to the hills. Kandy is
rather warmer than in February the range of the thermometer
;
has decreased and the morning air has lost its crispness but ;
the climate is pleasant and the month is a good one for the
tourist. Nuwara Eliya is still delightful as in February, but
with diminishing range of temperature, the nights being less
cold. At the ruined cities the conditions are favourable to
tine visitor, the month being quite fine. Jaffna becomes hot,
but not unbearably so, and the tourist should not leave it out
of his itinerary.
CHAPTER II
COLOMBO
To the end that this account of the facilities afforded by the
Ceylon Government Railway may serve as a comprehensive
handbook for the traveller, it will be useful here to give some
account of the amenities of the port of arrival, and such
information as will enable the steamship passenger to enjoy
its many attractions to the best advantage.
First aiimpse The character of the first glimpse of Ceylon necessarily
of Ceylon
yaries with the time of day and the atmospheric conditions
that may be prevailing. During the north-east monsoon, from
October to April, which the best season for visiting Ceylon,
is
the conditions are generally favourable, and the scene which
unfolds itself to us if we are early risers, and have the good
fortune to approach the coast at break of day, is one of unique
beauty.
We behold first the mountain zone, saered to tea production, First aiimp
ey on
rising in one might)' upheaval from the plains of Ceylon, and °
capped in the centre by the venerated peak named alter our

first parent. The mists are as yet lying- in the valleys, and
the cool blue tones above them give us the true contour of
those fertile mountains upon which millions of tea bushes are
nourishing. At different elevations there are four extensive
ledges which appear to rise abruptly from the base, and from
these a number of lofty mountains raise their rugged brows to
the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet.
As we approach nearer and nearer we see the mists arise,
attracted upwards by the rays of the rising sun, and a scene
of verdant loveliness is disclosed which stands in welcome con-
trast to the parched and barren shores we have left behind
at Suez and Aden. The mountains are now lost to view and
the details of the beautiful palm-fringed shores gradually
increase as we steam towards the harbour.
The harbour is formed of three artificial breakwaters,
enclosing- an area of 660 acres. Some idea of the masses of
water that are hurled against these concrete walls during the
fury of the monsoons may be gathered from our illustration..
MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY BREAKING OVER THE SOUTH"WEST ARM

OF THE COLOMBO HARBOUR
Sinhalese \y L have now arrived within the harbour, and our atten-
.
tion arrested by many quaint scenes.

is A multitude of
canoes from the shore are making for our vessel. Their
singular form immediately excites our curiosity. Each is
constructed from the trunk of a tree, which is first hollowed
out and then levelled at the top. Balance is secured by an
outrigger attachment, which consists of two poles of wood
extending at right angles to a distance of about ten feet
from the body of the boat, and connected at the ends by
a float. Boats of this construction are used by the Sinhalese
for fishing and for passenper traffic. They withstand the
roughest sea, and literally fly before the breeze. As each
steamer drops anchor within the magnificent breakwater
of Colombo these weird craft crowd around, many of them
bringing traders laden with precious stones, which will be
offered at double or treble their value to unwary passengers;
others plying for the hire of their boats to take passengers
ashore, some with dusky Tamils who sing unceasingly to
the plash of their oars many with comely Sinhalese of
;
lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot

surmounted by a tortoiseshell comb, giving them a curiously
feminine appearance some with Indo-Arab traders in curious
;
costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall

plaited brimless hats of parti-coloured silks. This motley fleet
is the first scene of novelty that claims attention upon arrival
in the harbour of Colombo.
Landing The distance of the landing jetty from our ship will vary
from a mile to a few hundred yards according to the berth
allotted for anchorage. Passengers go ashore at their own
convenience in launches, canoes, or jollv boats, all of which
plv for hire around the steamer. The boats are licensed. The
rates of hire are observable in a prominent place upon arrival
at the landing jetty, and a jetty sergeant is present to afford
information and check anv incivility on the part of boatmen.
The The Customs officials are courteous and obliging to
Customs travellers, who are not required to pay duty on such articles as
comprise ordinary travelling baggage. But firearms are liable
to a duty of five to ten rupees and articles which are not in
;
use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of §j4

per cent, on that value.
Rates of carriage hire, 'rickshaw hire, portages and statis-
tical information generally are given at the end of this volume,
and will be easily found on reference to the index.
The Fort Li few of the world's large ports is the traveller offered
so pleasant a prospect upon landing. There is usually a slum
to be traversed before the surroundings become attractive, but
here we are at once in pleasant places. Upon leaving the
jetty we arrive in the Fort, which term in olden times
bore its literal meaning; but now indicates that portion of

Colombo occupied by the residence of the Governor,
chiefly
the offices of the Government and of the British merchants.
We are impressed by the prosperous appearance of the
place. The streets are broad, the roads are good, the
merchants' offices and stores are capacious and in many
instances possess considerable architectural merit, while the
hotels are superior to any others in the East, a matter of no
small importance to the traveller and resident alike. We are
at once confronted by one of them the Grand Oriental Hotel
.
faces us as we leave the harbour.

Other first-class hotels are the Bristol in York Street, the
Galle Eace Hotel at the southern end of the esplanade, and
the Mount Lavinia, about seven miles down the coast; while
amongst the smaller ones are the Globe and the British India.
The Eort, a plan of which is annexed, can easily be ex-
plored on foot and without a guide. By turning to the right
upon reaching the Grand Oriental Hotel we pass the old
banqueting hall of the Dutch Governors, which now does duty
as the English Garrison Church of St. Peter. It contains
some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning

again to the left we pass along Queen Street, with the Gordon
Gardens on our right and the Legislative Council Chamber
and various Government offices on the left (Plate 2). The
2. GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 3. THE QUEEN'S HOUSE.
THE GENERAL POST OFF RANKS AND BANKS IN QUFEN STREET.
The Qu.en's Government archives are also located here and include the
House
official records of the Dutch Government from the year 1640
to 1796, besides the British records from the latter date. The
Gordon Gardens are on our right, and adjoining them is the
residence of the Governor of the colon}', known as the Queen's
House. Although not a handsome building, its massive
masonry and spacious corridors provide what is most desirable
in a tropical residence,protection from the sun's rays, while
the grounds of some four acres are shaded by
beautiful trees.
It was erected about the middle of the last century. We
cannot give an adequate idea of the architecture or general
appearance of this building from a photograph, for it is not
only in a somewhat confined position for so large a house, but
is also embowered in foliage. Some idea of its appearance
from the street may be gathered from our Plate 3.
Genem' Immediately opposite the Queen's House is the General
Vest Op'ic
Post Office (Plate 4). The colony is abreast of the times
in its postal arrangements, and in many instances offers
advantages that the Old Country has not begun to provide,
notably, a value-payable parcels post while its post-card and
;
newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain.

The visitor will find the arrangements for his convenience
satisfactory and complete. He will enter by the handsome
flight of steps leading to a spacious hall floored with intaglio
tiles. Here he will find the poste-restante counters as well as
every other postal facility.
The next buildings to claim our notice as we pass along
Oueen Street are the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank and the
Chartered Bank of India on the left (Plate 5).
Opposite these banks is another institution of a similar
character, the Mercantile Bank of India. An equally venerable
thing is the sacred Bo Tree which flourishes at its entrance.
This tree is of the same species as the famous specimen at
Anuradhapura, now upwards of two thousand years old, whose
history described on a later page.
is
Here Queen Street is intersected by Chatham Street, and The
Lighthouse
in the middle of the crossings stands the Lighthouse of
Colombo, which serves the additional purpose of a clock tower.
The quadrilateral shape of this building is unusual in a light-
house, and its more important purpose is sometimes unsus-
pected by the visitor who passes by. As we approach the end
of Queen Street we notice the military officers' quarters on the
right, the left being occupied chiefly by the offices of shipping
houses and produce brokers.
We now proceed by way of Chatham Street. The stranger
will be struck with the picturesque appearance of this and other
streets of Colombo due to the Pithecolobiurn saman or rain
6. CHATHAM STREET.
io THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Colombo trees by which they are shaded. They are called rain trees
from the circumstance that at night the leaves fold into a kind
of sac in which the moisture condenses and at sunrise when
the leaves open is discharged in a shower. The Suriya tree
(Thespesia populnea) also affords shade to many of the streets
and roads it flowers profusely with delicate primrose-coloured
;
blossoms, large and showy, changing to purple as they fade,

and in form resembling the single scarlet hibiscus. The roads
are metalled with dark red cabook, a product of disintegrated
gneiss, which being subjected to detrition communicates its
hue to the soil. Chatham Street is composed of a strange
jewellers medley ot restaurants, native jewellers, curiosity shops and pro-
vision boutiques the houses being for the most part old and
,
limited to one floor. It is a remnant of old Colombo in the

sailing-ship days and must soon disappear, as most of the
Dutch buildings have already done, to give place to colossal
houses of business befitting the dignity of the port.
York si, cei We turn to the left into York Street (Plate 7), which would
scarcely be recognised by those who left Ceylon twenty
years ago. It contained the eastern wall and moat of the
old Dutch fort, which have disappeared in favour of the
Registrar General's office, the Bristol Hotel, the National Bank
of India and the Victoria Arcade. Prince Street and Baillie
Street intersect the square which we have traversed. The
latter is a somewhat narrow and treeless but busy thorough-
fare, containing merchants' offices and the Bank of Madras.
Prince Street also consists entirely of mercantile houses.
Having now given a brief sketch of the Fort, we
66
Colombo" proceed with a few hints as to the best means of seeing
the rest of Colombo. The visitor with little time at his
command should spend half an hour round the Fort by the
route described then take a first-class seat in front of the tram-
;
car lor the Grand Pass terminus upon the Kelaniya River; next
visit Maradana and Borella by the same means of locomotion
;
afterwards hire a carriage,* drive along Galle Face, Union

Place, Yauxhall Road, the Lake, Hyde Park Corner, the
Cinnamon Gardens, the Hospital, Horton Place, Gregory's
Road, the Museum, Turret Road, Polwatte and Kollupitiya.
Then if time permits drive to Mutwal. The visitor who follows
this route will have seen Colombo, and should it be his first
visit to the East he will have received enough new impressions
to dwell upon for many days.
Tramways A start is made for Grand Pass from the Fort terminus
near the Grand Oriental Hotel. Most of the cars are fitted
with outside seats in front, which are first class. Into one
ot these we step. We
now leave the Fort and are carried
along past tens of thousands of tons of coal which proclaim
* For rates of carriage hire, etc., see Index.
7. YORK STREET.
8. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE.

i- THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Colombo their own story of the vast amount of shipping that comes
this way. A minute later we are in the Pettah, the natives'
mart. The effect is kaleidoscopic. Moormen or Indo-Arab
traders occupy Main Street with well-stocked stores containing"
everv description of goods. In the vicinity of the Town Hall
we notice the great diversitv of races represented Sinhalese,
:
Moors, Tamils, Parsees, Dutch, Portuguese, Malays and

Afghans ; the varietv of costume worn by each race in
accordance with caste or social position, from the simple loin
cloth of the cooly to the gorgeous attire of the wealthy and
high-caste gentleman the different complexions and forms of
;
toilet, the avocations carried on in the open street, are all enter-
taining to the visitor who for the first time becomes a witness
of the manners and customs of oriental life. At every turn
the eye is met by a fresh picture. This mixed and motley
crowd live their life and carry on their labours almost entirely
in public. Neither doors, windows, nor shutters interfere with
a complete view of the interior of their houses and stalls. The
handicraftsman works serenely in his open shed, sometimes
even in the open street women are occupied in their most
;
domestic affairs unveiled from the glance of the curious

passer-by, and tiny children, clothed only in the rich tints
of their own complexions, sport amongst the traffic. All this
harmonises charmingly with the conditions of climate and the
nature of the people. The heat renders clothing uncomfortable,
The Grand Pass and closed up dwellings unendurable. The tram ride is
Tramway
perhaps too rapid for the stranger to fully appreciate these
novel scenes ; but a glance at them through three miles of
native streets is all that time affords. The terminus is reached
at the River Kelaniya.
Tin
Tramix
Bo>-,iia W e now return to our starting point and take a seat in
the car that moves off in the opposite direction. Proceeding*
up York Street and turning to the left, we pass the Survey
Office, Public Works Office, Chamber of Commerce, and the
Port Railway Station. The lake scenerv first claims our
attention. Presently we pass the Royal College situated on
high ground to the left. This is the principal Government
educational institution, the nucleus of a future university,
shortly to be removed and rebuilt on a new site. A ferry
connecting with a peninsula of the lake called Captain's
Garden provides a pretty bit of scenery, and here we notice
the operations of the washerman, the dark, dank dhoby who
bleaches our soiled linen by the primitive method of beating
it upon slabs of rock. Upon leaving the lake the line passes
the Railway Goods Station upon the right and the Technical
College upon the left.
After passing the Technical College we proceed along Mara-
dana Road for half a mile, when we pass over the railway at
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY >3
the Maradana Junction Station, the principal station whence Colombo

trains leave tor the coast line and the Kelani Valley as well as
lor up-country and the northern line. Then we notice on our
lelt the Police Headquarters and Parade Ground, and on the
right the largest Mohammedan mosque in Colombo.
Other notable places are the Lady Havelock Hospital for
women and children and Campbell Park, into which the visitor
might stroll for a few minutes before taking- a tram back again.
On the return journey we might look out more particularly
for quaint scenes in the bazaars through which we pass. Tlteba.zaa.rz
The open character of the native shops is universal; they
vary only in the classes of goods they have for sale. The
customers are almost as varied as the wares. The Sinhalese
man of sienna complexion, wearing his long hair gathered
up into a knot surmounted by a comb of tortoiseshell, is
attired in garb varying with caste, even the comb assuming
different forms in accordance with social position. The
Sinhalese women too have a multitude of distinctions in dress.
Our next business is a drive through pleasant places where a pleasant
we shall see something of native life amidst the exquisite dr,vc
scenery with which this most beautiful of tropical cities
entrances the traveller of esthetic temperament. Our choice
in the matter of conveyance lies between the jinrickshaw and
the horse carriage, victoria or waggonette of somewhat in-
different quality to be hired in Colombo. If our choice falls
upon the former, a rubber-tyred 'rickshaw should be chosen
if the latter, a waggonette is preferable as offering less obstruc-
tion to view. It is advisable to obtain either through the hotel

attendant, and to give him sufficient notice to enable him to
secure the best procurable. A licensed guide* may be of
service, but he must be required to adhere to the route marked
out, and he should be allowed only to answer questions and
act where necessary as interpreter. We drive through Prince
and Queen Streets which are by this time familiar to us and
onwards to Galle Face. Upon leaving the Fort we notice
first the military barracks on our left, built on the foundation
of the old wall of the Dutch fort and fronted by a spacious
parade ground. It will be seen that of the five handsome blocks
four arc placed en echelon so that each may receive the full
benefit of the sea breeze. Next we arrive upon Galle c.aiu i-acc
Face, which is an open lawn about one mile in length and
three hundred yards wide, flanked on one side by the sea and
the other by the lake. It is controlled by the military
authority, but used by the public as a recreation ground for
football, cricket, hockey and other games.
At the extreme southern end of the Galle Face Esplanade GaUe Face
and in close proximity to the sea stands the luxurious Galle Hotel
* For regulations respecting guides refer to Index.
i
Colombo Face Hotel. We now cross over the central road, avoiding the
turn to Kollupitiya on the east side of the hotel, and pass by
Christ Church and the Masonic Temple.
slave island Next we cross a bridge into Slave Island, an unpleasant
name given to this locality by the Dutch who used it as a prison
for their State slaves. The coast railway line is now crossed,
and we proceed along Union Place for about half a mile.
The first turning to the left brings us immediately to some
pretty lakeside views. Attention at this spot is divided between
the charming landscape and the operations of the dhobies upon
the banks in the foreground. Groups of bronze-tinted figures
are waist-deep in the water, engaged in the destructive
occupation of cleansing linen by beating it upon the rocks.
Across the lake at this point is St. Joseph's College, an
establishment for the higher education of Roman Catholic
boys. It has five towers, and in general appearance somewhat
resembles an Italian palace. It is erected on one of the most
charming sites conceivable, environed with beautiful palms
and flowering trees and overlooking the finest part of the
extensive lake of Colombo.
The lake Turning to the left we now drive down Vauxhall Road for
a quarter of a mile and then turn sharplv to the left, crossing
Union Place and making our way beneath an avenue of trees
to another picturesque stretch of the lake. At this point are
several charming pictures affording an opportunity not to be
missed by the amateur photographer. This fresh-water lake
is one of the most charming features of Colombo. Its rami-
fications are so manv that one is constantly coming- across
pretty nooks and corners quite unexpectedly, each fresh view
presenting a wealth of foliage luxuriant beyond description.
Palms in great variety intermingle with the gorgeous mass
of scarlet flamboyant blossoms, the lovely lemon-yellow lettuce
tree, the ever-graceful bamboo, the crimson blooms of the dark
hibiscus, contrasting with the rich green of the areca, date
and palmyra palms, the huge waving leaves of the plantain,
flowering trees and shrubs of every description of tropical
foliage, the whole forming to the rippling water a border of
unrivalled beautv and unfailing interest.
Park street We now leave the lake to explore the roads and houses of
residential Colombo, which extends for about four square miles
to the south of the lake and is centred by the Victoria Park.
The Victoria Park is an ornamental recreation ground laid
out with gardens, band stand and promenade, golf links, tennis
courts, a galloping course for riders and a circular carriage drive.
The whole is bounded by bungalows with their picturesque
The Museum grounds. Here, too, will be found the Colombo Museum.
The bronze statue on the lawn facing the entrance is that of
Sir William Gregorv, one of Cevlon's most successful
*#**%£
SLAVE ISLAND. 10. UNION PLACE.
13. VAUXHALL ROAD. HE GENERALS HOUSE.
16. BUDDHIST TEMPLE, iEW FROM THE GENERAL'S HOUSE.

17. BANYAN TREE. 18. VICTORIA PARK.
~
W>tffW
Governors, who ruled the colony from 1872 to 1877, during Colombo
which period the museum was erected. The scientific and
educational value of this institution is recognised and appre-
ciated greatly by a large portion of the community ;while it
serves a still larger class as a show place always interesting
and attractive. In the central hall are brasses and ivory. The
Ceylon products room contains all manner of things peculiar
to the colony : jeweller)', coins, models of various operations,
including pearl fishing, masks of devil dancers, tom-toms in
great variety, the sumptuously enshrined and devoutly wor-
shipped Buddha's tooth, and ethnological models in great
variety displaying many curious native costumes. In the
archaeological rooms arc to be seen a highly interesting
collection of works of art from the ancient ruined cities. The
natural history galleries on the upper floors are filled with
fine specimens of indigenous birds, beasts and fishes. The
many curiosities of the insect world will surprise the stranger,
for Ceylon abounds in insect life.
This part of Colombo, including the Victoria Park and
extending west and south of it in a whole series of cross roads
and crescents, is popularly known as the Cinnamon Gardens
from the circumstance that it was, in the time of the Dutch
occupation of Colombo, one of their chief reserves under
cultivation of that precious spice. But for the last half-
century the bushes have been fast disappearing in favour of
the beautiful bungalows and gardens which make the locality
one of the most charming residential spots conceivable, the
envy and admiration of visitors from the southern colonies.
The greatest charm to many a visitor is the drive, which Reads a/the
can be extended to ten miles or so, along the many parallel carfen""
roads, cross roads and crescents to the west and south of the
Victoria Park. The houses, so different from those of colder
countries, quite innocent of dirty chimney stacks and fire
grates, are quite in accord with the charm of their surround-
ings. Each residence nestles in a paradise of palms and
flowering shrubs of infinite variety, gorgeous crotons and
creepers innumerable, the latter overgrowing roofs and pillars
and climbing the neighbouring trees, which they bespangle
with their lovely blossoms.
The Havelock Race-course is to the south of the Victoria The Race-course
Park. Here the Colombo Turf Club has its regular race
meetings. Gymkhanas and other sports are also held here at
various intervals under the auspices of the Polo Club, whose
ground is the open space inside the course.
The Ridgeway Golf Links are reached by driving to the The Goij Links
end of Horton Place. The course is extensive, complete and
well laid out. The greens will be found very fast but generally
excellent.
i8 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Colombo There are several interesting routes by which we may
return to the Fort. If after our wanderings we happen to be
near the race-course we shall drive down Race-course Avenue
and return to Galle Face or the Fort by way of Flower Road,
Green Path, or Turret Road and Kollupitiya.
A drive round the suburb of Mutwal, to the north of the
Fort, would make our acquaintance with Colombo nearly
complete, and is to be recommended in case of this being our
first experience of a tropical citv. Our way is through Main
Street and the Pettah, where we shall again be interested in the
quaint scenes of native daily life and occupation. We pass the
Dutch Belfry, the Town Hall and the Market Place, and turn
into Wolfendahl Street, which bears to the right and leads
direct to a most interesting remnant of the Dutch occupation,
a massive church in Doric style, built by the Dutch in 1749.
The drive may now be continued in a north-eastcrlv direction
to the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Santa Lucia, which is the
finest building in Colombo. The nave is capable of accom-
modating six thousand persons. In a north-westerlv direction
SI. Thomas's another half-mile brings us to St. Thomas's College, one of
College
the leading educational institutions of the colony, founded by
Bishop Chapman, first Anglican Bishop of Colombo in 1851.
From the tower of the Cathedral a good view of the harbour
may be obtained.
The suburb of Mutwal has been to some extent robbed of
its beauty by the great encroachment of harbour works and
fortifications, but north of these it is more beautiful and in-
teresting than any other part of the coast near Colombo.
25. THE SPORTS CLUB CRICKET GROUNDÔN GALLE FACE.

CHAPTER III
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OE THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT
RAILWAY
There is no consideration more important to the traveller The
who intends Railway
visiting a country than the facilities
far-off
afforded by its railways and roads. Fortunately Ceylon is well
equipped in both respects. Her railway now affords an easy
and even luxurious means of reaching- the most attractive parts
of the country. It renders easily and quickly accessible the
most beautiful scenery, the more interesting antiquities and
all those fields of agricultural industry —the tea, the coconuts
and the rubber, which have brought about the advanced state
of prosperity which the colony enjoys. Xo other country in
the world can take you in spacious and comfortable railway
carriages on a track of five feet six inches gauge, over moun-
tains at an altitude of more than six thousand feet. Yet such
facilities areprovided in Cevlon.
In following pages will be found described and
the
illustrated the whole of the Ceylon Government Railway and
the districts which it serves. The description is not limited
to the various towns and villages which give their names to
the railway stations, but is extended to those parts of the
country which the traveller will be likely to visit by using the
railway for the whole or part of his journey. The places are
taken in order of stations, so that the traveller who possesses
this book may read of each place or district as he passes
through it. It will, however, be useful first to take a glance
at the following general description of the various lines and
the rules and regulations which have been made for the comfort
and convenience of passengers. The traveller who will take
the trouble to do this will find himself amply repaid bv the
various facilities of which he may avail himself, but of the
existence of which he might otherwise be ignorant.
The Railway The Ceylon Government Railway is State owned as its
name implies and is under the control Ceylon Govern-

of the
ment. The total mileage at present open is 576 miles, of which
509 are on the broad gauge (5 ) 2 feet) and 67 on the narrow
gauge (2% feet).
The sections of the broad gauge line are the Main, Coast,
Negombo, Northern and Matale lines. The narrow gauge
are the Kelani Valley and the Udapussellawa lines. A new
broad gauge section from Madawachchi to Talaimannar and
a narrow gauge section from Avisawella to Ratnapura are at
present under construction.
Mam line The Main Line runs from Colombo in a north-easterly
direction about forty-five miles, when after Polgahawela
for
has been reached it gradually winds south-eastwards until, at
the terminus of Bandarawela (ifio ^ miles), it is in the same
1
latitude as Colombo. This line is by far the busiest and most

profitable of the sections, due to the fact that it serves the
great tea districts of the mountain zone. It was the first
section of the railway to be constructed, and in its later stages,
after the foot-hills are reached at Rambukkana (fifty-two
miles from Colombo), will be found the chief engineering
triumphs of the line. From Rambukkana the line rises 1,400
feet in the thirteen miles to Kadugannawa with a ruling
gradient of 1 in 45 and curves of 10 chains (220 yards) radius.
The " ghat " or hill-section may be said to begin at
Nawalapitiya, the principal railway centre of the hill districts,
eighty-seven miles from Colombo, and 1,913 feet above sea
level. From this point the line rises almost continually with
a maximum gradient of 1 in 44 and minimum curves of 5
chains (no yards) radius until it reaches a height of 6,225 f eet
at Pattipola, 139 miles from Colombo. From this point, after
passing through the summit-level tunnel, the line falls by
similar gradients and curves to Bandarawela, its present
terminus.
Coastline The Coast Line follows the west coast in a southerly
direction to Galle (71^4 miles) and thence, still along the coast,
in an easterly direction, to its terminus at Matara (98 %
miles
from Colombo).
The Negombo Branch leaves the main line at Ragama
(9 miles from Colombo), and runs northwards through
cinnamon and coconut estates to the seaside town of Negombo
(i4 T 2 miles from Ragama).
Korthc The Northern Line, one of the sections of the railway
line
most recently completed, extends from its junction with the
main line at Polgahawela (45^2 miles from Colombo) to
Kankesanturai in the extreme north of the island, its distance
from Polgahawela being 211*^ miles.
Miliars The Matale Branch extends northwards for 21 miles from
brancli
27. FIRST CLASS COMPARTMENT
~ERTHS.
.29. BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOMBO.
30. REFRESHMENT CAR.

Peradeniya junction (70)2 miles from Colombo on the main

line) to Matale, which was the starting point for the long
coach journey to the north prior to the construction of the
Northern line. Kandy is situated on this branch, 74^ miles
from Colombo and nearly four miles from Peradeniya junction.
The Kelani Valley Line runs eastward from Colombo for A'e/am
"' y
"
4724 miles and serves the tea planting district from which it
takes its name.
The Udapussellawa Line runs from Nanuoya (128 miles udapmsellawa
l '" e
from Colombo) to Ragalla, a distance of 19 miles, and upon
it situated Nuwara Eliya, the sanitarium of Ceylon, 6,200
is
feet above sea level and 63 miles from Nanuoya. This

branch is very similar to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
of India, with a maximum gradient of 1 in 24 and minimum
curves of So feet radius.
The rolling stock of the railway is now constructed locally Tiie ro n;nj,
in the workshops in Colombo, where over 1,000 workmen siock
are employed under the superintendence of skilled European
foremen. These shops are well equipped with pneumatic
and other labour-saving machinery, whilst new tools are being
added year by year. The older type of four-wheeled carriages
were imported from England and erected in the colony, and
there are still a good many of these on the line, but they are
being steadily replaced by the standard type of bogie carriage
forty-two feet long. These modern carriages, which are
constructed of teak, are not of the Indian type, with its
longitudinal seats, but of the English pattern, and are furnished
with excellent lavatory accommodation. The outsides of the
carriages are of varnished teak, whilst the interiors are of the
same wood polished, picked out with satinwood and adorned
with photographs of interesting places on the line. The line is
well provided with sleeping and refreshment cars, the former
running on the up and down night mail trains between Colombo
and Nanuoya (for Nuwara Eliya), whilst the latter are run on
the principal trains between Colombo, Kandy and up-country
stations.
Passengers to whom time is an object, and who wish to sleeting cars
pay a flying visit to Nuwara Eliya, can leave Colombo after
dinner, travel in a comfortable sleeping berth for the nominal
sum of Rs. 2.50 (in addition to first-class fare), get an early
tea or breakfast in the refreshment car before arriving at
Nanuoya, and be in Nuwara Eliya before half-past eight next
morning. In the opposite direction they can also make the
night journey down between dinner one evening and breakfast
the next morning, early tea being served by the attendant in
the sleeping car.
The catering for the refreshment cars is in the hands of a Catering
private company, and meals can be obtained along the road in

Railway comfort and at moderate prices, without the inconvenience and
regulations ]oss f t me involved by the Indian system of
[
" refreshment
"
stops.
On
the Northern line, where the traffic is too light for the
running of a refreshment car, the through trains halt at
Anuradhapura a sufficient length of time to enable passengers
to obtain a satisfactory mid-day meal.
In addition to the refreshment cars, the car company pro-
vide breakfast, tiffin and dinner baskets on application, either
from their depots in Colombo, Polgahawela and Hatton, or
from the refreshment cars.
There are three classes on the railways as in England, and
the fares charged are exceedingly moderate.
On all parts of the line, except the Hill section above
Nawalapitiya, the standard single fare per mile is as follows,
viz. first-class, 8 cents; second-class, 5*3 cents; third-class,
2
2 /z cents; and return tickets at a fare and a half are issued
for all classes.
Taking 6 cents as equalling one penny, the rate per mile
for a first-class return ticket in the lower sections is one penny
or the equivalent of the third-class fare in England.
Colombo time is observed throughout the railway system.
The Ceylon Currency is as follows :
—
English sovereign = rupees 15.
,, half-sovereign = rupees ""so.
Rupee (silver = is. 4CI.) = 100 cents,
qo cents (silver)
25 .- ( ... )
(nickel, square with rounded corners)

5 ,,
(copper)
1 ,,
Luggage The following is the free allowance of luggage per adult passenger,
viz. :
—
First class, 112 lbs. second class, 84 lbs. third class, 56 lbs.
; ;
For children with half tickets, half the above is allowed free.
Children travelling free (viz., under 3 years of age) are not allowed
any free quantity of luggage.
Excess luggage is charged for at full parcels rates, which should be
prepaid at the starting station, but if not charged for there, the excess
may be collected at the end of the journey or at any intermediate point.
A receipt should be obtained for all excess charges.
Luggage in bulk can be forwarded at goods rates, which are obtainable
on application to any stationmaster.
Passengers are advised to be at the starting station in good time in
order to admit of their luggage being weighed, labelled, and loaded in
the train before starting time.
The luggage must be well secured and properly addressed with the
owner's name and destination, in addition to the railway destination label,
which passengers should personally see affixed to the packages. It is
necessary for passengers to obtain and produce their tickets before their
luggage can be labelled. Where numbered luggage receipts are issued,
it is necessary that these should be produced on arrival
at destination'
before the luggage can be delivered up.
Care should be taken to remove all old labels from luggage, especially
those for previous journeys on the C.G.R.
Railway
Passengers should be careful to comply with these regulations, failing
regu a 10n>
which the railway will not be responsible for any loss or miscarriage.
Passengers may take into the carriages (at their own risk and in their Packages in
own charge) only such small packages as can be placed under the seat carnages
occupied by the owner, or on the hat-racks (where provided). Articles
may not be placed in the gangways of carriages or entrances to lavatories.
Passengers are earnestly requested to adhere to this rule, so as to
prevent discomfort not only to themselves, but to their fellow passengers.
The railway will not be responsible for any loss of or damage to the Responsibility
following articles if conveyed as luggage, viz. : —
Musical instruments,
f "]^'"?ot
plate, bullion, money, bills, deeds, notes or securities, precious stones, damage to
jewellery, trinkets, watches, clocks, china, glass, or other frail or fragile luggage
articles. Such articles will only be conveyed as parcels, and they must
be insured as shown below.
The liability of the railway for loss of or damage to passengers'
luggage conveyed free is limited to Rs. 150 for first-class passengers,
Ks. 100 for second-class passengers, and Rs. 50 for third-class passengers,
unless the value is declared and an insurance charge of 1 per cent, on
the excess value is paid before the luggage is deposited.
Should passengers wish to leave their luggage at any station, they can Left Ivggagc
do so on paying the cloak-room fee of ro cents per article for two days,
and 5 cents per article for every additional day or part of a day.
Bicycles are charged 25 cents each for first two days, and 10 cents for
every additional day. A receipt must be obtained, which must be pro-
duced before the articles can be given up again. Railway servants are
strictly forbidden to take charge of any article belonging to passengers
unless it is deposited in the cloak-room and a receipt obtained for it,
as stated above.
Any property of passengers found in the carriages, at the stations, or Lost luggage
on the line, will be removed to the nearest station for twenty-four hours,
after which it will be forwarded to the lost-property office in Colombo,
and if not claimed within three months it will be sold.
Should any passenger lose any article he should inform the guard of
the train and the nearest stationmaster, and also report the loss as soon
as possible to the Traffic Superintendent in Colombo, in order that imme-
diate steps may be taken to trace the missing property.
In cases where passengers are responsible for the loss of anv article,
a small fee will be charged and satisfactory evidence of ownership
demanded before the article is delivered up.
Passengers who wish to secure the exclusive use of a compartment or Reserved
carriage can do so on payment of the following charges, viz. :
—
First class, accommodation
two-thirds of the seating capacity of the carriage or compartment re-
served second class, three-quarters third class, four-fifths.
; ;
To reserve a full compartment in the sleeping car, a first-class ticket

and sleeping-car ticket must be taken for each berth in the compartment.
Accommodation for invalids and through carriages can be arranged on invalid
application to the General Manager, Colombo. accommodation
Compartments for the use of ladies and young children only, will be and through
carrm
provided without extra charge on the through trains on notice being given
Compartnn
on the previous day to the stationmaster at the station from which the tor la/lies tits
compartment is required.
The sleeping-cars which run on the up and down night mail trains y/, r /,/„
between Colombo and Nanuoya are provided with accommodation for
twelve passengers, namely, two four-berth and two two-berth compart-
ments, and lavatory accommodation. Each berth is numbered and pro-
vided with pillows, sheets, blankets and quilt, and an attendant accom-
panies each car.
The charge for each berth in the sleeping-car is Rs. 2.50 in addition
to the ordinary first-class fare for the distance to be travelled. A sleeping-
Railway car ticket must be purchased for each berth before the car is entered, and
regulations it must be delivered to the car attendant.
Children under twelve years of age accompanying adults may occupy

sleeping berths on payment of half ordinary first-class fare plus full cost
of a sleeping-car ticket, and two or more children may occupy the same
berth with one sleeping-car ticket.
Application for berths must be made not later than 6.30 p.m. at any
station on the line, but payment will not be accepted nor accommodation
provided until it has been ascertained that berths are available.
One two-berth compartment in each saloon, with lavatory adjoining,
nun.bered 1 and 2, is reserved for ladies, but if this compartment is not
booked by 6.30 p.m. it will be available for married couples, and if dis-
engaged at the time the train is due to start it will be given to gentlemen
passengers.
Ladies travelling alone are allowed to occupy this ladies' compart-
ment only.
The other two-berth compartment (which is provided with jug, basin,
&c.) is suitable for married couples, but it is not reserved for this purpose,
and is given to the first applicants. The berths in it are numbered 3
and 4.
Ayahs are only allowed in the sleeping-car when the full compart-
ment is paid for.
Refreshment The refreshment cars are first-class carriages, and second-class passen-
ears gers are only allowed to enter them for the purpose of obtaining refresh,
ments, nor may they remain in the cars for more than one of the advertised
stages
Dogs and luggage may not be taken into refreshment cars under any
circumstances.
Smoking is only permitted when passengers are not taking meals, and
then only with the consent of all other passengers in the car.
Refreshment
Refreshment rooms exist at Colombo (Maradana Junction), Polga-
racms '
hawela, Hatton. and Nanuoya on the Main line, Alutgama on the Coast
line, and Anuadhapura and Vavuniya on the Northern line.
Refreshments at these places are provided at moderate prices. The
guard of the through Northern line trains will wire free of charge for
the provision of midday meals at Anuradhapura.
Passengers from the Bandarawela line by the down night mail can
have dinner ordered at Nanuoya by wire free of charge on application to
the guard.
Special traim A special train can be provided from Colombo to Kandv and back on
payment of a minimum charge of \o first-class return fares (Rs. 9 is the
first-class return fare) on application to the General Manager, Colombo.
Steamer passengers wdio have sufficient time for a journey to Kandy
during the stay of their boat in Colombo can arrange for a special through
the steamer agents. The run takes a little over three hours each way.
For other special trains the charge is Rs. 4 per mile for a single, and
Rs. 6 per mile for a return journey, plus fares and luggage at ordinary
rates for the passengers and luggage conveyed. The mileage will be
calculated from the nearest station from which an engine can be supplied
;
and the minimum charge for running a special is Rs. 50.
Applications for specials should be made to the General Manager not
less than twenty-four hours before the special is required, and
no
guarantee can be given that it will be provided.
The booking offices will be open for the issue of tickets half an hour
before the advertised time for the departure of trains, and may be closed
five minutes before the departure time.
In order to prevent inconvenience and delav, passengers are requested
to provide themselves with suitable change, as "the booking clerks
may not
at all times be able to give change. Passengers should also examine their
tickets and change before leaving the booking "ounter, as errors cannot Railway
afterwards be rectified. regulations
The English sovereign and half-sovereign aie accepted at all booking
offices, their equivalents being Rs. ic;and Rs. 7.50.
Tickets are not transferable, and must be produced or delivered up Tickets
whenever demanded by the railway servants.
Single journey tickets are only available on the day of issue, or by
a through train starting on the day of issue.
First- and second-class return tickets for distances 10 miles and under
are available for return within three days, inclusive of the day of issue
and day of return {i.e., a ticket issued on Monday is available for return
not later than Wednesday). Tickets for distances over 10 miles and up
to and including 30 miles are available for return within seven days,
inclusive of the day of issue and day of return, and tickets for distances
over 30 miles are available for 30 days inclusive of the day of issue and
day of return.
For the convenience of tourists, Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons have
authority to issue coupons over the C.G.R. These are subject to the
same conditions as ordinary tickets, but are available for two months and
for break of journey where required.
Passengers desirous of travelling beyond the station to which they have
booked must, before passing that station, hand their tickets to the guard,
who will see to the collection of the excess fare at the proper point, but
under no circumstances can the advantage of a return ticket be obtained
by payment of excess fare. Passengers cannot be rebooked at roadside
stations to proceed by the train in which they have arrived.
Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations over Break cf
30 miles apart are allowed to break their journey at an intermediate i"" r"0'
station once on the outward and once on the homeward route, provided
that they do not travel more than once in each direction over the same
section of the line, and that the return journey is completed within the
time for which the return ticket is available. "When passengers avail
themselves of this privilege, they must on alighting from the train,
produce their ticket to the stationmaster, who will endorse it '
Broke
L
journey at " (the name of the station being inserted) and initial
and date the endorsement. Passengers holding first- and second-class
return tickets between any stations 30 miles apart, of which Peradeniya
Junction is an intermediate station, may travel into Kandy and break
journey tfiere without paying excess fare between Peradeniya Junction
and Kandy in either direction. In this case the tickets must be endorsed
by the stationmaster at Kandy.
Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between Matale line
stations and stations beyond Kandy, but less than 60 miles apart, are
allowed to break journey at Kandy provided they resume their journey
the same day. Such tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at
Kandy before the passengers leave the station premises.
Children under three years of age will be conveyed free. Children of ChiLhcn
that age and under 12 years will be charged half fare.
One female servant only will be allowed to accompany her mistress in Female servant
a first-class carriage (whether in charge of children or not) on payment and nurses
of second-class fare, provided such an arrangement does not interfere
with the comfort of other passengers travelling in the same compartment.
Nurses in charge of children, when not accompanying their mistresses,
must pay the fare of the class in which they travel.
Should a passenger, from an unavoidable cause, be unable to obtain Travelling-
a ticket before starting, he must as soon as possible report the fact to the without ticket
guard, and pay his fare at the destination station, or earlier if demanded.
A passenger travelling without a ticket, or with a ticket so torn or
mutilated that the date, number of station from or to, cannot be de-
Railway ciphered, is liable to be charged from the station from which the train
regulations originally started, unless he can prove satisfactorily that he entered the
train at some intermediate station.
Excess fares Passengers who are called upon to pay excess fares should demand and
obtain a receipt for the amount paid.
Extension oj Passengers who are unable to use the homeward halves of ordinary
*' cktt *
return tickets within the specified time can have them extended on appli-
cation at the station from which they are returning, and on payment of
the necessary extra sum.
special terms Special terms are granted to pleasure parties consisting of not less
to parties of than io persons travelling by ordinary trains between stations not less
travellers
than 25 miles apart, and also to other special parties. Full particulars
of the charges and regulations can be obtained on application to the
General Manager, Colombo.
Telegrams The travelling public are allowed to despatch telegrams through the
Railway telegraph department at the rates of the Post Office telegraph
department, provided they are bottd fide from a passenger or to a pas-
senger travelling by tram. At certain stations ordinary postal messages
are also dealt with. The Post Office rates are as follows :
—
First ten
words, 25 cents each additional two words or less, 5 cents.
;
The name and address of the addressee must be paid for, and also
that of the sender if included in the body of the telegram and signalled.
Though ever}' effort will be made to ensure quick despatch and correct
delivery of telegrams, the railway will not be responsible for delay or
non-delivery.
Any person requiring to send a telegram relative to parcels, luggage,
&c, such as requests for re-addressing, &c, will be charged 50 cents for
such telegram, and a further sum of 25 cents if a reply is required.
Should it be found that the telegram was necessitated by the fault of an}'
member of the railway staff, the amount paid will be refunded.
Passengers who may have left articles on the station premises or in
the carriage in which they have travelled, and who wish inquiries made
by wire, will be required to pay 25 cents for telegram of inquiry and 2^
cents for reply. If, however, the articles lost were booked and placed on
the van, inquiry will be made by wire without charge.
Ammunition Only safety breech-loading cartridges may be despatched by passenger
train, and they are charged for at ordinary prepaid parcels rates, pro-
vided they are packed in a box, barrel, or case of wood, metal, or other
solid material of such strength that it will not become defective or in-
secure whilst being conveyed.
Horses, car- lne rates and regulations for the conveyance of horses, carriages,
riaês, motor motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol by passenger train, may be obtained on
vehicles, parcels application to any stationmaster.
Small animals, such as cats, puppies, mongooses, monkeys, mousedeer,
Small animal &c, and poultry and other kinds are only carried in strongly-made square
and poultry crates or hampers, and they are charged for by weight at parcels rates.
T)„ rs Dogs in crates, cases, or bankers will be charged for by weight at
parcels rates :when in dog-locker, 2^ cents each for every 25 miles or part
of 2^ miles.
Dogs for conveyance in the dog-locker must be provided with chain
and leather or metal collar in good order, unless a letter of indemnity
is furnished.
Xo person is allowed to take a dog into a passenger carriage except
with the consent of the stationmaster at the starting station and the con-
currence of his fellow-passengers, and then only on prepayment of double
rate for each dog.
The acceptance of a dog at the double rate for carriage with the owner
is subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected
to, no refund being given.
The railway will not be responsible for the loss of or injury to any dog Railway
which may escape either in consequence of its becoming unmanageable, regulations
slipping its collar, or by the breakage of the cram or collar by which ;t
is secured.
Bicycles (not packed), other than motor bicycles, when sent as parcels Bicycles
or carried as passenger luggage, will be conveyed at owner's risk at i
cent per mile over the Main, Coast, and branch lines below Nawalapitiya,
and 2 cents per mile over the Main line and branches above Nawalapitiya.
Minimum charge, 25 cents.
The railway will not undertake to convey the following articles as mbusiibk
parcels, viz. :
—
Gunpowder, fireworks, vitriol, aquafortis, turpentine, d dangerous
tides
matches, mineral oils or acids, or any other combustibles or dangerous
materials. Any person contravening this regulation will be liable to
prosecution under the Railway Ordinances.
The charge for insurance of articles conveyed by passenger train
(which must be prepaid) is 1 per cent, on the value (minimum charge,
R. 1), to be declared in writing at the time of booking.
Stationmasters arc authorised to accept insurance rate on packages
valued at less than Rs. 500. For articles valued at or above that sum,
application for insurance is to be made to the General Manager, Colombo.
Cheques or other orders for payment of money are not accepted unless Cheque.
authorised by the General Manager.
Information regarding the conveyance of articles at goods rates may
be obtained on application to any stationmaster or to the General Manager,
Traffic Superintendent, or Goods Agent, Colombo.
The railway will not be responsible for information given by others Inquiries
than the principal officers in charge of the different stations, of whom
inquiries should always be made, or of the General Manager, Traffic
Superintendent, or District Superintendents.
Passengers are requested to report direct to the General Manager, /«, >ility
Traffic Superintendent, or District Superintendents any instance of in-
civilitv, want of attention or misconduct on the part of persons employed
on the railway. Complaints should embody the name and address of the
complainant.
Railway servants are forbidden to ask for or receive from the public Gratuities
any fee or gratuity.
LIST OF STATIONS
N EGO 11 BO
NOTE CONCERNING THE OLD COLOMBO TERMINUS AND

MARADANA JUNCTION STATIONS
The starting point for the Main Line until recently was
the " Terminus " Station, namely, the terminus of the
original "Colombo to Kandy Railway," the first section of
which was opened in 1865. When subsequently the " Coast
Line " was constructed, engineering difficulties precluded its
being led through the "Terminus," and so the Junction was
formed at Maradana, and the "Terminus" became a small
branch of about a quarter of a mile in length. Apart from the
inconvenience of working such a station, the growing goods
traffic of Colombo necessitated extension of the main goods
yard, adjoining the Terminus Station and after the considera-
;
tion of many schemes for grappling with the problem of

increased passenger and goods traffic in an already crowded
locality, it was decided to make Maradana Junction the
principal passenger station of Colombo, and to close the
Terminus for passenger traffic, the space thus released being
utilised for extension of the goods yards, railway workshops
and other improvements.
There is still preserved as a relic of old-time ideas a hand-
some bronze sundial, erected on one of the old Terminus
platforms in the early days of the railway, to enable railway
men to tell the time without the expense of clocks and
watches.
The present Maradana Junction Station, completed in 1909,
contiasts favourably with the old-fashioned structure that
sorely tried the temper of Colombo residents hastening to
Nuwara Eliya for week-ends or brief holidays at Easter and
Christmas.
The new station is built on modern lines. A handsome
two-storied building provides a booking office for first and
second class passengers (with railway offices above), and thence
a foot-bridge leads to electric luggage lifts and to the platforms
below, of which there are three, accommodating (besides the
Kelani Valley narrow gauge trains) five broad gauge trains at
a time.
There are comfortable waiting-rooms for all classes, and
a good refreshment room.
At the present time both Coast and Main Line trains start
from and finish at Maradana Junction, but on completion of the
new " Fort" Station (probably about the beginning of 1911),
the principal up-country trains will depart from and arrive
at that station, thus serving the " Fort " district of Colombo
more conveniently.
CHAPTER IV
THE COAST LINE ITINERARY

Coast Line tHe seaside railway from to Matara affords every
Colombo
and towns of the south coast,
facility for visiting the villages
where Sinhalese life pure and simple can be seen to greater
advantage than anywhere else in Ceylon. Here is to be found
the purely Sinhalese section of the inhabitants of the island,
a circumstance due to the fact that the lowlands of the south
were not invaded by the Malabars, who in early times con-
quered and held possession of the northern provinces for long
periods, with the result of a considerable commixture of the
Aryan and Dravidian races.
The line begins at Maradana Junction in the heart of
Colombo, and the next four stations are also in Colombo, after
which follow four more which may be called suburban. At
present the suburban coast line is single, and its stations are
old-fashioned and insufficient for the heavy traffic, but the work
of doubling the line and rebuilding the stations as far as
Moratuwa (13m. 7c.*) is in progress, and the undertaking
should be completed about the end of 1911. Upon leaving
Maradana Junction the line follows the banks of the lake
for the first two miles, when it passes under the Kollupitiya
Road to the coast. At the end of the first mile we reach
—
The Pettah (im. 6c). This station serves the most
densely populated portion of Colombo where the native trader
chiefly dwells. A description of the locality which it serves has
already been given in our account of Colombo. This station
will shortly be closed, and the existing Pettah and Fort
stations will be amalgamated at a new and commodious " Fort
Station," about midway between the existing stations.
The Fort —
The Fort (im, 45c). From the platform of this station
which we illustrate by our plate 31 there is a remarkably
beautiful prospect. As stated above, a new Fort Station
is under course of construction. When completed, the
principal up-country (i.e. Main Line) trains will start from and
terminate at the Fort. The station is largely used by the
clerks of the European mercantile firms and the government
offices in the Fort who live in the suburbs and in the more
distant towns and villages to the south of Colombo. It is
also a most convenient starting point for passengers from the
steamships and visitors at the Grand Oriental and Bristol
hotels, who take trips to Mount Lavinia and the various places
of interest farther south.
* The distances of all stations from the Maradana Station at Colombo
are indicated in miles and chains ; there being 80 chains in a mile.
32
> A\ .
7J
mJ
la&fly
fA
Was
31. THE FORT STATION.

35 WELLAWATTA STATION
:-,'> .
'
'':
—
Slave Island (2m. 24c). Slave Island station is situated Coast Line
near the southern end of Galle Face and is therefore most con- slave island
venient for the visitors of Galle Face Hotel. Near it a narrow

channel joins that part of the lake which borders Galle Face
to the larger stretch which reaches from Slave Island to
Polwatte. The railway crosses the channel at the point illus-
trated by our plate 32, and from the bridge we get the
view in plate 33. It will be noticed that we are in
picturesque surroundings already, and this condition will con-
tinue for the whole ninety-eight miles of the line, increasing, if
possible, in beauty, and never absent. We now pass beneath
the Kollupitiya Road, and arrive upon the sea-beach just below
the Galle Face Hotel.
—
Kollupitiya (3m. 25c). Kollupitiya station is situated Kollupitiya
just where Green Path and Turret Road converge and reach
the main Galle Road and it is therefore most conveniently
;
placed for residents round and about the Victoria Park and
Cinnamon Gardens. It also serves the populous district of
Kollupitiya itself, which contains more bungalows of the better
class within a given space than any other portion of Colombo.
Many Europeans who prefer residences quite close to the sea
live here, as do a large number of the burgher and native com-
munities. The main road is somewhat squalid here and there
with bazaars and various detached boutiques, but always beau-
tiful by reason of the flora in which the squalor is embowered.
Bambalapitiya (4m. 45c). — Bambalapitiya is a suburb of Bambalapitiya
Colombo with characteristics somewhat similar to Kollupitiya,
but less densely populated, and therefore more desirable as a
residential neighbourhood. Near the station are many exten-
sive and luxurious bungalows.
—
Wellawatta (5m. 70c). Our illustration (Plate 35) will wellawatta
give a good idea of the existing stations in the suburbs of
Colombo, but a newer and better type will shortly replace
them. It will be noticed that they border the sea very closely;
but it must be borne in mind that there are no considerable
tides to reckon with, the sea rising to an extent almost
imperceptible. The heavy seas of the south-west monsoon,
however, have not to be lost sight of, as they sometimes treat
these stations more roughly than is good for them. In
fact, the result of the south-west waves on the railway
line between Colombo and Mount Lavinia has been so
serious that the Government have had to go to large ex-
pense in protective works to preserve the railwav, including
the opening of a special quarry at Ragama (nine miles from
Colombo on the main line), where huge blocks of stone arc
conveyed to the coast and systematically packed along the edge
of the railway by means of large cranes to stop the encroach-
ments of the sea. The scenery around Wellawatta is notable
for the pretty landscapes observable from the railway bridges.
Examples are given in our plates 34 and 37.
coast Line
Dehiwaia
—
Dehiwala (7m. 44c). Dehiwala, although in effect a
suburb of Colombo containing some excellent bungalows, in
Fishingindusiry reality retains its older character of a fishing village, and the
visitor will find it a convenient and attractive place in which to
observe some of the quaint operations of the fishing industry
and the remarkable fish themselves, with their curious shapes
and beautiful colours. The number of species caught amount
to no less than six hundred. Of those which are edible the
—
one most preferred is also the most plentiful the Seer. In
size and shape this fish somewhat resembles the salmon, but its
flesh is white. In flavour it is by some thought to be superior
to salmon ; but however this may be, it is certain that few
people tire of Seer, although it is daily served at some meal
throughout the year.
Fish auctions take place each day upon the sands and very
;
interesting are they to the visitor, not only as a study of native

life, but as an exhibition of the strangest creatures brought
forth from the deep. Among the most curious are the saw-
fish. These are something like sharks in the body, but the
head has attached to it a huge flat blade, with sharp teeth pro-
jecting on cither side. This frightful weapon in a full-grown
fish of some twelve or fourteen feet long extends to about
five feet in length. With it these monsters charge amongst
shoals of smaller fish, slaying them right and left and devour-
ing them at leisure. The saws are sold as curiosities and can
generally be obtained in Colombo. The red fire-fish, some-
times brought ashore, is of a remarkably brilliant hue. The
sword-fish, the walking-fish with curious arms and legs, by
means of which it crawls along the bottom of the sea, the dog-
fish marked like a tiger, and various species of the ray are
frequently caught.
Our plate 38 shows the coast from Dehiwala to Mount
Lavinia. Here sea turtles of great size are frequently captured.
Bnddhht Another attractive feature of Dehiwala is the Buddhist
Temple. Although smaller than some others within a short
distance from Colombo it is most accessible and the plcasantest
to visit, owing to its being clean and well kept. Within are
to be seen huge images of Buddha, both sitting and reclining.
Mural paintings, of the crudest character, represent various
legends, and especially set forth the various forms of punish-
ment in store for those who disobey the Buddhist precepts.
Before the images offerings of flowers are heaped including
;
lotus blossoms, temple flowers, and the blossoms of the areca

and coconut palms. No worshipper comes empty-handed
and the fragrant perfume is sometimes almost overpowering.
38. THE COAST FROM DEHIWALA TO MOUNT LAVINIA.
39. BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT DEHIWALA.

Bafefe -k^k, *Jfc
—
Mount Lavinia (8m. 70c). This station takes its name Coast Line
from the handsome marine residence which Sir Edward Barnes Mount
built here when Governor of Ceylon in 1824. It stands upon a Lavinia
rocky promontory washed by the waves on three sides and
commands the finest view of coast scenery near Colombo; " an
edifice," wrote Tennent, "in every way worthy of the great
man by whom it was erected. But in one of those paroxysms
of economy which are sometimes no less successful than the
ambition of the Sultan in the fable in providing haunts for
those birds that philosophise amidst ruins, the edifice at Mount
Lavinia had scarcely been completed at an expense of ^,30,000
when it was ordered to be dismantled, and the building was
disposed of for less than the cost of the window frames."
This once vice-regal villa long since became the Mount Lavinia
Grand Hotel, and as such it has a world-wide reputation. It is
a favourite rendezvous of ocean passengers, but its greater use-
fulness is the opportunities it presents to residents inland
in
who from time to time need a change to sea air. At Mount
Lavinia that desideratum is available under the pleasantest pos-
sible conditions. The recreations of sea-bathing, fishing, tennis
and billiards are all at hand, while the situation is romantic and
picturesque. Our illustrations show the position of the hotel,
the bathing accommodation and the railway station.
Bathers are undisturbed by the presence of sharks, as the Bathing- at
reef and rocks keep out these voracious monsters and render Mo int Laxmm '
the bathing quite safe and enjoyable. The temperature of the

water being about 85 F. the luxury can be indulged in ad
libitum. to the inland resident who visits Mount
Another boon
Lavinia isthe plentiful supply of fresh fish and the " fish
tiffins " and " fish dinners " for which the hotel is noted. In
our view of the railway station there will be noticed some
barracks on the left which were until recently used as a
sanitarium for troops but since the adoption of Diyatalawa for
;
this purpose they have fallen into disuse.

The railway station is shortly to be enlarged in connection Railway
with the doubling of the line. There is an ample train service facilities
to and from Colombo. Besides the hotel the station serves the
village of Galkissa, which has a population of about 5,000.
No horse carriages are available for hire but bullock R»*d
;
"" lr£^" '" ! r :<

hackeries can be obtained at rates of 50 cents a mile for
Europeans and 25 cents for natives.
Amongst the local products are coconuts, cinnamon and Local products
native vegetables. Fish is the only commodity sent by rail.
Lace, bamboo tats (shade blinds), bullock carts, curiosities Manufactures
and carved furniture are all manufactured in the village of
Galkissa.
Snipe shooting can be had in season within a mile of the sport
station,
4o THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Coast Line —
Angulana (nm. 22c). Angulana is a village of about
Angulana 1,000 inhabitants. Its local manufactures are limited to
buttons and walking sticks. Coconuts, betel and cinnamon
are its chief agricultural products. The Anglicans, Wesleyans
and Roman Catholics each have churches and schools in the
village. The station is small and its business limited to
passengers and the despatch of about ten tons of fish per week
to Colombo. It will shortly be rebuilt.
Lunawa —
Lunawa (12m. 5c). Lunawa is a village of about 1,800
inhabitants, almost entirely Sinhalese. The coconut is its
chief product of the soil, and its manufactures are limited to
furniture and general carpentry work. The main Colombo-
Galle Road runs parallel with the railway at a distance of half
a mile from the station. The Prince of Wales' College for
boys, an extensive and successful institution founded by the
munificence of the late Mr. C. H. de Soysa, is situated here.
It is affiliated to the Calcutta University, and has proved of
immense benefit to the adjoining large and populous town of
Moratuwa. The station here will also shortly be rebuilt.
Local
accommodation Passengers will find a rest-house close to the station, where
food can be obtained without any previous notice. Good buggy
carts and hackeries drawn by single bulls can also be obtained
by those who desire to explore the neighbourhood.
Moratuwa —
Moratuwa (13m. 7c). Moratuwa, which with its adjoin-
ing village contains a population of 30,000, is an exceedingly
picturesque town. Its inhabitants apply themselves chiefly to
—
one calling that of carpentry. The visitor who wishes for
a glimpse of native life pure and simple may obtain it here
amidst the pleasantest surroundings.
Railway The railway station is in the town and possesses a ladies'
facilities waiting-room in addition to the usual waiting-hall. There is
no refreshment-room but quite near the station is the Reliance
;
Hotel where food can be obtained without previous arrange-

ment, both for Europeans and natives. It has also sleeping
Conveyances
accommodation to the extent of seven double bed-rooms. Horse
carriages, buggy carts and hackeries can be readily obtained
near the station. Particularly nice hackeries can be hired at
very moderate rates, and are most convenient for visiting the
various interesting spots.
Local products The chief agricultural products are coconuts, cinnamon
and betel. A large quantity of arrack is distilled here, of which
some 250 tons are sent off by rail during the course of the
year. Plumbago mining is carried on to some extent in the
neighbourhood, and an average of about ten tons per month
is despatched by rail.
Manufactures
The local manufactures, in addition to furniture of every
description, are carriages, tea-chests and lace. The tea-chests
despatched by rail average about sixty tons a month.
!|t
The hackery which we illustrate by plate 46 is the genuine
Moratuwa article and was photographed near the station.
We disport ourselves in this, dangling our legs at the back
as the driver dangles his in front. Our steed is a smooth-
skinned little bull with a hump above his shoulders with which
he draws the car by pressing against the cross-bar affixed to
the shafts. The hackery is essentially the carriage of the middle-
class native. The whole turn-out may cost from £2 to ^,7
or £8, according to the age and quality of the bull and quality
of the car. The upkeep amounts to little, while the cost of
fodder is a very few shillings per month. So it will be evident
that the hire to be paid by the passenger is not a ruinous
sum but however little, it should be agreed upon at the start
;
50 cents or 8d. an hour would be the approximate charge; but

there is no fare fixed by local ordinance in the out-stations
and villages. Upon turning from the station road the bazaar
with its gabled roofs illustrated by plate 47 will attract
attention. Thence we should drive on to the toll-bar (Plate
48), and leaving our little car stroll on to the bridge which
crosses the Panadure River (Plate 49). Here will be noticed
many quaint scenes, not the least interesting being the
manipulation of the extensive but frail-looking bamboo rafts
used by the natives for river traffic (Plate 50). A drive
along the Galle-Colombo Road in the direction of Lunawa will
afford considerable interest, and afterwards a look around the
various furniture factories, winding up the excursion with a
row upon the extensive and beautiful lake. The primitive
methods of the carpenters, who construct their own tools and
employ their toes as well as their fingers in their work, will
strike the visitor as a strange contrast to Western methods.
The European visitor is sure of a welcome and everything
is open to his inspection. His presence is always an occasion
of great interest and amusement to the non-workers, and
especially the children, who flock around him and wonder at
the curiosity which he exhibits in their parents' occupations.
Parties of Europeans not infrequently visit Moratuwa to be
entertained by the carpenters, who upon short notice decorate
one of their timber boats and place it at the disposal of the
party. By this means the many interesting places on the banks
of the great lagoon may be reached.
A large estuary, unaffected by tides, which, as has been
before remarked, are almost non-existing on this coast, pro-
vides Moratuwa with its extensive and ornamental lagoon. Its
charm as a pleasure resort is all too little recognised by the
residents of Colombo but that it is so used may be seen from
;
our photographs (Plates 53 to 57). The best method of

arranging a day's picnic is to make up a considerable party;
hire two of the large flat-bottomed boat=- roofed with plaited
fronds of the coconut palm, as seen in our illustrations, the one
for the party and the other for commissariat and attendants ;
to accompany these hire also a couple or more small out-

rigger canoes.
It will be observed that Moratuwa is within the region of
cultivated cinnamon. In our peregrinations we shall have
noticed large gardens of this renowned laurel, which still
attracts cultivators even to an extent almost inducing over-
production. Indeed the supply is so fully equal to the demand
that the profit now obtainable by its cultivation is insufficient
to attract the European investor. We cannot here afford space
to trace the history of this interesting product from the time
when Moses was commanded to take 250 shekels of cinnamon
as part of the ingredients for the manufacture of holy anointing
oil for consecration purposes. Where the cinnamon of Moses
was grown is a matter of some doubt but the tree is regarded
;
by the highest authorities as indigenous to Ceylon where the

situation and climate are so exactly suited to it that none so fine
and delicately aromatic has been found elsewhere. It has been
referred to by many ancient classical writers and always re-
—
garded as a greatly prized luxury a gift for kings. In the
markets of early times it can only have existed in small
quantities, for we find the price paid in ancient Rome to have
been the equivalent of £8 sterling per pound weight. Its
cultivation is not referred to, and there seems to have been an
impression even so late as the middle of the seventeenth century
that cinnamon was only good when allowed to grow in a wild
state. The cinnamon of commerce flourishes only in a small
portion of Ceylon, near the coast, from Negombo twenty miles
north of Colombo to Matara at the extreme south of the island.
Where it grows the air is moist, the rainfall copious and
frequent, and the soil dry and sandy on the surface with a
stratum of richer soil beneath. Some trees are found farther
inland in the wooded valleys that intervene between the suc-
cessive ridges of the Kandyan mountains, but they give a
coarser bark with a strong flavour which is not appreciated.
Cultivation has also been tried in the Kandyan country, but
has not resulted in any measure of success.
The trees in an uncultivated state grow to the height of
twenty to thirty feet, and the trunk may be three feet in
circumference. The leaf is said to have a flavour of cloves,
but the stalks taste very pleasantly of cinnamon. The young
leaves are of mixed flame-colour and vellow ; after a short
time they become of a beautiful pea-green, and upon reaching
maturity they put on a dark olive tint. The blossoms arc
white with a brownish tinge in the middle, and produce fruit
in the form of an acorn but more diminutive. The trees culti-
vated to produce the cinnamon of commerce arc not allowed to
58. LOPPING THE CINNAMON TREES.
59. CINNAMON PEELERS.

4b THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
grow above ten feet. The branches that are lopped off to be
barked are of about the size and thickness of an ordinary
walking stick. The trees can be grown from seeds or shoots.
When they are about three years old they afford one branch
fit for cutting; at five years they give three and at eight years
ten branches of an inch thickness. At twelve years the tree
is in its greatest perfection, but it will flourish for a century.
The tree blossoms in January in April the fruit is ripe and

;
the cutting is done from May to October. The harvest opera-

tions are these :the Chalia * goes forth into the gardens,
selects a tree the suitability of which he distinguishes by its
leaves and other characteristics. When the tree is seen to bear
fruit well it is in good health and the bark will peel without
difficulty. To prove whether it is ripe the Chalia strikes his
hatchet obliquely into the branch if on drawing it out the bark
;
divides from the wood, the cinnamon has reached maturity

but if not it must go on growing. The sticks are gathered by
boys and tied into bundles with coir strings they are then
;
carried to the peeling stores.

The operation of peeling the sticks requires considerable
skill. A knife with blade of copper two and a half inches long,
something like that used by shoemakers, sharp pointed and
slightly hooked, is employed. The peeler seated on the ground
makes two parallel cuts up and down the length of the bark,
which, after being gradually loosened with the point of the
knife, he strips off in one entire slip about half the circum-
ference of the branch. If the bark does not come away easily
the sticks are rubbed vigorously with a round piece of hard
wood which has the effect of loosening it. The ultimate object
of the methods employed is to make the bark up into quills, a
quill being a solid rod of cinnamon resembling a thin cane four
feet in length, in which form it is exported the pieces of bark
;
when stripped are therefore placed round the sticks both with
a view to preserving their shape and as a convenience for the
next operation. They are now allowed to remain for three
to six hours, when fermentation takes place and the bark is
ready for skinning, which process is accomplished in the follow-
ing manner. The Chalia sits with one foot pressed against a
piece of wood from which a round stick slopes towards his
waist. Upon this stick he lays the slip of bark, keeps it steady
with the other foot, and holding the handle of the knife in one
hand and the point of it in the other, scrapes off the skin,
which is very thin, of a brown colour on the outside and green
within. This treatment of the bark leaves only that part which
has the desired delicate taste it is of a pale yellow colour
;
and a parchment-like texture. The bark is now left to ferment

* The Chalias are a caste of low grade whose calling is that of
cinnamon searcher and peeler.
and dry, which if the weather be favourable takes about thirty Coast Line
minutes. The next process is that of forming the quills. The
smaller pieces are inserted into the larger, and both contracting
still closer under the process of drying form solid rods. They
are afterwards rolled into perfect shape and made up into
bundles.
Cinnamon oil is distilled from the chips and trimmings of
the quills. Altogether there are now about forty thousand
acres of cinnamon under cultivation in Ceylon.
—
Panadure (17m. 51c). Panadure, a town of 2,000 in- Panadure
habitants, has many of the characteristics of Moratuwa. Its
estuaries, which are more extensive, are dotted with islands
that add an extra charm to the landscape. They are the
retreats of multitudes of water-fowl and are covered with
exquisite vegetation. The passenger should look out for the
beautiful view from the railway bridge crossing the mouth
of the river near the station. Quaint sights are frequently to
be seen here, especially when the native fishermen are dis-
porting themselves upon the piles of the fish kraals.
The station is in the heart of the town and is provided Accommodation
with the usual waiting-rooms. There is an hotel quite close "", 7 y a „ OT
, ,
to it called the Station View Hotel, and a good rest-house

about half a mile distant. Previous notice should be given if
food is required. Horse carriages and bullock hackeries can
be obtained near the station at very moderate rates.
The chief local agricultural products are coconuts, areca Local products
nuts, plantains, cinnamon, tea, rubber, paddy, betel and
pepper. Arrack is distilled in great quantity and contributes
the greater portion of the freight to the railway here, about
eighty tons a month being despatched, and twenty-five tons
cf vnegar.
The visitor to Panadure will find the townspeople engaged Manufactures
in the manufacture of tea chests, brass and silver work,
coir rope and matting, agricultural implements, furniture and
carriages.
There are two interesting historical events that are asso- Historical
ciated in the popular mind with Panadure. Both were battles. incld?nts
The first occurred in the twelfth century, when Alekeswera, a
famous general of King Parakrama Bahu of Polonnaruwa,
met the Indian invaders near Panadure and defeated them.
The second belongs to the struggle for supremacy between the
Dutch and Portuguese in the seventeenth century. Marching
three thousand strong from Kalutara to Colombo, the Dutch
had safely crossed the Panadure River, when their progress
was disputed by seven hundred picked troops of the Portuguese
who had been employed in the wars against the Kandyan
King. The latter were surrounded and five hundred of them
4S THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
slain ; the survivors succeeded in reaching Colombo again,
but in such sorry plight that half of them died of their
wounds.
Wild lowl in prodigious numbers, and the reptile denizens
ol the lake, its islands and the luxuriant woods that surround
it,provide good sport for week-end parties from Colombo.
A most enjoyable trip may be made by coach from Pana-
dure to Ratnapura (forty-two miles), returning by boat upon
the Kaluganga or Black River to Kalutara (see Kalutara).
—
Wadduwa (21m. 37c). Wadduwa is a village of about
3,000 inhabitants. It owes its name, said to be derived from
wake, curve, and duwa, island, to the physical circumstance
that it is surrounded by a narrow canal. The station deals only
with passenger traffic. It is situated in the village, which is
entirely embowered in palms. Its produce is coconuts, cinna-
mon and betel, and its manufactures, coir rope and matting,
and to a small extent brass work and silver and gold jewellery.
There is no special attraction or accommodation for visitors.
Kalutara North (26m. 6c.) and Kalutara South

(27m. 28c). — Kalutara
a large town of considerable im-
is
portance, in a beautiful situation at the mouth of the
Kaluganga or Black River. It boasts of two railway stations
which serve the north and south of the town respectively. One
is on each side of the river, which is spanned by two large
iron bridges.
The older bridge until recently carried both the railway and
road (as depicted in plates 60 and 61), but as it was not
considered sufficiently strong for the more modern (and con-
sequently heavier) engines and trains a new bridge has been
completed in 1910 for the railway alone, and the old bridge has
been given over entirely for road traffic. The two bridges lead
to Kalutara South, the older and more important part of the
town. From the old bridge we get our view (Plate 63)
showing the quaint boats consisting of two dug-outs joined by a
platform or deck upon which is built a house with plaited
fronds of the coconut palm. By means of these boats the
native trades between Kalutara and Ratnapura, the city of
gems, about fifty miles up-river. Perhaps this is the finest
stretch of river scenery in Ceylon but the visitor who wishes to
;
explore it will (pending completion of the railway extension to

Ratnapura at end of 191 1) drive to Ratnapura from Avisawella
station on the Kelani Valley line (twenty-seven miles) or from
Panadure station on this line (forty-two miles) and sail down
the river to Kalutara. To go up the river by boat is a long
and wearisome business owing to the rapidity and volume of
the stream.
66. ROAD SCENE IN KALUTARA. 67. VIEW FROM TEAK BUNGALOW.
4 'M$m
88. DUTCH HOUSE IN KALUTARA. 69. FRUIT BAZAAR.
f35SH BSSfei,
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Si
The sail down from Ratnapura to Kalutara is a perfect Coast Line

rhapsody of delight the shores are resplendent with colour rlu Kal„
; .
nga from
and beauty of trees and flowers now a temple lifts its head Rainapura
;
to
above the foliage now a village encompassed by groves of Kalutara
;
tamarinds, jaks, talipots and kitul. Along the banks on

either side wave the yellow stems and leathery leaves of the
bamboos, while the broad and rippling stream bears us on its
bosom in one long dream of loveliness for the whole fifty miles
of our journey.
The enjoyment of the natural beauties of Kalutara is not A /tractions of
spoilt by the presence of a teeming population. The well laid Kalutara
out and park-like appearance of the town as approached from
the southern end of the bridge gives a pleasant first impres-
sion, and one hears without surprise that the place has enjoyed a
great reputation as a sanitarium from the time of the Dutch,
by whom it was held in great esteem. The remains of the
old fort (Plate 65) which they built upon a natural eminence
at the mouth of the river are conspicuous as we leave the
bridge. Upon this site now stands the new residence of the
chief Government official of the district, and immediately below
it are the Kachcheri or Government Offices (Plate 70). The
Anglican Church of St. John (Plate 64) comes next into view ;
it was built in 1876 and was the first new church consecrated
by the present Metropolitan Bishop of Calcutta when Bishop

of Colombo. A short distance farther on we find ourselves in
the heart of the town, where the law courts are seen on the
right and the police station on the left embowered in glorious
foliage (Plate 66). A new rest-house of two storeys with every Local
convenience and comfort for the traveller faces the sea and accommodation
esplanade near the law courts. It has ample accommodation
for six visitors— six bedrooms and six bath-rooms, in addition
to a spacious dining-room and broad verandahs. Excellent
catering will be found, no previous notice being required here.
There are also five native hotels in the town. Carriages can
be obtained at the rates of one rupee (is. 4d.) for the first
hour and 25 cents (4d.) for each subsequent hour. The charge
for long journeys in visiting distant tea and rubber estates is
50 cents (8d.) per mile. Bullock hackeries can be hired at
the rate of 25 cents (4d.) per. mile. Near the rest-house is
Kalutara South railway station.
The Dutch houses with their double verandahs (Plate 68) Pictiu
add decidedly to the picturesqueness of the roads, which reaches fcatur,
its highest development at Kalutara. Most charming is an
inlet of the sea which washes the embankment of the railway
as it leaves the town. The road and rail here run along-
side of each other. A short distance beyond the scene in
our picture we come upon the curious and beautiful tree
illustrated in plate 72, a fine old banyan (Ficus indica), which
Coast Line extends to a great height and has thrown an arch across the
road. The upper portion harbours a mass of parasitic plants
and ferns of exuberant growth, the whole forming a lofty
rampart of vegetation from which depend the filaments and
aerial roots of the parent tree in graceful and dainty tracery.
Our plate shows only the lower portion of this wonderful tree.
We now turn off the main road and drive through the
back streets, although that somewhat disparaging epithet is
hardly suitable as applied to lanes where slender palms with
sunlit crowns form a lofty canopy from which garlands hang
in natural grace over every humble dwelling; where even the
palm-thatched roofs are often decorated by the spontaneous
growth of the gorgeous climbing " Neyangalla " lily. In this
fairyland we strike the note of human interest ; for here is
Nonahamy seated at the entrance of her dwelling engaged in
the gentle occupation of weaving the famous Kalutara baskets.
Kalut, These dainty little articles are made in numberless shapes and
bas'ccti sizes, and for a variety of useful purposes, from the betel case
and cigar case to the larger receptacle for the odds and ends of
madame's fancv work. Those of the ordinary rectangular sort
are made in nests of twelve or more, fitted into one another for
convenience in transport, and the visitor seldom comes away
without a nest or two of these most useful and very moderately-
priced articles. The process of manufacture is simple :
children are sent out into the jungle to cut off the thin fibres
from the fronds of the palm illustrated in plate 73 these are
;
split into narrow slips and dyed with vegetable dyes black,
yellow and red, and then woven by the skilful fingers of girls.
Toddy and At Kalutara we are in the midst of another industry which
'"'""
is of immense proportions and productive of a large amount
'
/l
of revenue — the distillation of arrack. We shall have noticed

the apparent barrenness of the coconut trees in the extensive
groves through which we have passed. This peculiarity is due
not to the inability of the palms to produce fine fruit, but
results from the somewhat unnatural culture, by which they
are made to yield drink in place of food. Each tree extends
beneath its crown of leaves a long and solid spathe in which
are cradled bunches of ivory-like blossoms bearing the embryo
nuts. When the branch is half shot, the toddy-drawer ascends
the tree by the aid of a loon of fibre passed round his ankles,
giving security to the grip of his feet, which owing to their
innocence of shoes have retained all their primitive prehensile
endowment, and proceeds to bind the spathe tightly in a
bandage of young leaf he then mercilessly belabours it with
;
a bludgeon of hard wood. This assault is repeated daily for

a week or more till the sap begins to appear. A portion of
the flower-stalk is then cut off, with the result that the stump
begins to bleed. The toddy-drawer now suspends beneath each
72. BANYAN TREE. 73. KALUTARA BASKET TREE.
[
FB&- '-\ -^Ssdt- /
76, FROM PAIYAGALA CROSSING. 77. BERUWALA BAZAAR.
FISHING BOATS AT BERUWALA. C3. BERUWALA BAY

maltreated blossom a small earthenware chattie or gourd to Coast Line

receive the juice. This liquor is toddy. Day by day he ascends
the tree and pours the liquid from the chattie into a larger
vessel which he carries suspended from his waist. In many
groves of coconut palms there is a network of ropes reaching
from tree to tree for our drawer is a funambulist of some skill,
;
and even on a slack rope he will frequently make his way

safely to the next tree; but not always. Sometimes he falls,
and as the ropes are from sixty to ninety feet above the ground
the result is always fatal. The number of such accidents
recorded annually is upwards of three hundred. " Toddy " is
probably a corruption of the Sanscrit tari, palm liquor but ;
doubtless a Scotsman is entitled to claim the credit of the

application of the term in its European shape to the wine of
his country. Toddy is in great favour amongst the natives as
a beverage, and when taken at an earlv stage of its existence
is said to be pleasant and wholesome ; but after fermentation
has made progress it is intoxicating. Toddy may be regarded
as the wine and arrack the brandy into which most of the
former is distilled.
The chief local products are coconuts, tea, rubber, paddy, Local
products
betel, cinnamon, mangosteens and plumbago. There are about
thirty plumbago mines in the district turning out upwards of
a thousand tons a year. There are also seventeen thousand
acres of tea and many thousands of acres of rubber.
Katukuruxda (29m. 8c). — Katukurunda is a village of Katukurunda

about 2,000 inhabitants who are accommodated by the railway
with a passenger station. There is no rest-house or hotel.
The coconut palm is the staple product, while the manu-
factures are limited to the spinning of coir yarn, and the
fashioning of articles of brasswork.
Paiyagala North (31m. 16c.) and Paiyagala South (31m. Paiyagala
75c). —
Paiyagala North is simply a passenger station without
waiting-rooms and there is no other accommodation at or near
it. Paiyagala South is of greater importance and does a con-
siderable business in goods as well as passengers. These
stations serve a population of about 7,000, the inhabitants of
a group of villages including Induruwegoda, Palevangoda,
Kachchagoda, Gabadagoda, Pothuwila, Parranikkigoda, Goma-
ragoda, Pahalagoda, Mahagammedda and Veragala. The
names of the villages from which the stations take their names
are Maha-Paiyagala to the south and Kuda-Paiyagala to the
north. These villages are almost as picturesque as their ;,„;„,
names. The level crossing where the Colombo-Galle Road '"'J
passes over the railway is a charming subject for the artist
and the avenues from the station both north and south
(Plates 76 and 78) are especially beautiful and give a very
Coast Line good idea of the groves of palms in which these stations of
the coast line nestle.
Conveyances Visitors to Paiyagala should send on a servant to engage
hackeries, which are not always in readiness here. They can
however generally be obtained, the rate being 25 cents a mile.
Local products Coconuts, toddy, arrack, paddy, cinnamon and areca
nuts are the chief products. Tea and rubber are also sent to
this station from estates a few miles distant. Fishing is an
important industrv, and Paiyagala South supplies Colombo
with about five tons of fish a month. Some indication of the
occupation of the people may be gathered from a recital of the
railway freights, which average in a year 210 tons of arrack,
go tons of plumbago, 75 tons of timber, 40 tons of tea, 30 tons
of copra, 50 tons of areca nuts and 10 tons of coir yarn.
There is also a considerable trade in cabook stone for building
purposes.
Maggona —
Maggona (33m. ioc). Maggona is a village of about
3,500 inhabitants, mostly of the fisher caste. It affords no
special attractions or accommodation for visitors. The Roman
Catholics have made it a mission station of considerable im-
portance, where they have a large reformatory as well as
industrial and other schools.
Beruwaia —
Beruwala (35m. 7c). Beruwala, or Barbcryn as it is
often called, is situated upon one of the most picturesque bits
of coast in Ceylon. Its charming bay, always lined with quaint
craft and busy with the operations of the fishermen (Plates 79
and 83), extends to a headland of considerable prominence, off
which lies the island of Welmaduwa. Here will be seen one
of the Imperial lighthouses built in the form of a round tower
of grey gneiss rock. The structure is 122 feet high and its
light can be seen at a distance of nineteen miles. The traveller
who wishes to see the beauties of the bay should make his
way along the road shown in plate 83 and hire an outrigger
canoe to visit the island. Should he be interested in the
methods of fishing employed by the natives (Plate 79) this will
prove an admirable place to watch their operations. The
Beruwala bazaar (Plate 77) is a particularly lively one and
ministers to a large population ; for the villages here are
grouped rather densely together. We illustrate the railway
station (Plate 78), which, it will be noticed, is laid out for
both passengers and goods.
Aiutgama —
Alutgama (38m. 28c). Alutgama station serves a popu-
lous district, and is therefore necessarily provided with con-
siderable accommodation both for goods and passengers
including a refreshment room. The products of the district
despatched by rail are considerable and include plumbago, tea, Coast Line
coral, lime and arrack. We are, however, more interested in
the circumstance that Alutgama is the station for Bentota, a Bentota
village blest with such beautiful surroundings that it has always
been in favour as a quiet honeymoon resort. The rest-house
is one of the coolest on the coast ;it is spacious, salubrious and
prettily situated on a point of the beach where the Bentota

River forms its junction with the sea. The opportunities for
quiet seclusion, a table well supplied with all the luxuries of
the province, including oysters, for which the place has a local
renown, and the exquisite scenery of the district attract many
visitors. But a greater attraction of the place is the river.
Boats may be hired quite close to the rest-house. It is best
to engage a double-canoe with platform. On this deck com-
fortable seats, or even chairs, can be placed, and if an early
start is made, before the sun's rays become very powerful, a
trip of some three or four miles up the river will be found to
be a delightful experience. Bentota lays claim to several of Antiquities
the most ancient Buddhist Wihares in Ceylon. One of these,
the Galapata, is situated on the south bank about three miles
up the river, and should be visited by the tourist. It contains
some interesting relics of earlv times, amongst them a stone
door or window frame, said to date from the reign of Ring
Dutthagamini, B.C. 161. The carved scrollwork upon it is the
kind to be met with.
finest of the
Induruwa (41m. 54c). —
This is the latest railway station induruwa
opened on the coast line. It serves a population of about
3,000, who are mostlv cultivators of coconuts, paddy, areca

nuts, plantains, and cinnamon. There are no special attrac-
tions for visitors.
—
Rosgoda (45m. 2gc). At Rosgoda we alight upon a Kosgoda
platform adorned with flowering shrubs and plants of beautiful
foliage. The village and its neighbouring hamlets contain a
population of about 12,000, spread over an area of thirty
square miles. There is no special accommodation for travellers
at or near the station, but at Uragasmanhandiya, three and
three-quarter miles inland, there is a Government rest-house,
where two bedrooms and food supplies may be found if
previous notice is given to the rest-house keeper. Hackeries,
single and double bullock-carts, and horse carriages can be
hired at Rosgoda.
To the west of the village the land is charmingly undulated,
and exhibits a beautiful panorama of hills interspersed with
paddy fields. In this direction, at about the third mile, is
Uragasmanhandiya, for some years the Volunteer Camp of
Exercise. The site was chosen by the late Colonel Clarke
on account of its combined features of a suitable parade and
training ground and picturesque surroundings.
Coast Line There are many traces of ancient civilisation in the neigh-
bourhood, among them the ruins of an ancient Walauwa
(native chief's residence), dating from the year 1600, besides
about a dozen other old Walauwas. The present inhabitants
are mostly Sinhalese and of the Salagama caste.
Local products Coconuts, bread fruit, areca nuts, betel, pepper, cinnamon,
jak, citronella and rubber are all cultivated here. Copra to
the amount of about 250 tons, cinnamon 100 tons, coir yarn
200 tons, plumbago 60 tons, and arrack 40 tons per annum
are despatched by rail.
Manufactures The manufactures of Kosgoda include basket-making, lace,
silver and brass work, knives, carts, skilfully carved furniture,
bricks, earthenware, copra, coconut oil, coir yarn, coir ropes,
various products from the kitul palm, ekel and coir brooms,
citronella oil, cinnamon oil and native medicines.
From the above account it will be apparent that the visitor
who desires acquaintance with Sinhalese life and pursuits in
their most unsophisticated state should take advantage of the
opportunities offered by Kosgoda.
Balapitiya —
Balapitiya (49m. 63c). The railway station of Balapitiya
serves a local population of about 1,000. For the visitor
staying at Bentota or Ambalangoda on account of sport or for
the sake of beautiful scenery, it also provides facilities for
exploring the shores and islands of the extensive lagoon that
lies at its feet. This grand stretch of water, flanked by
mountain scenery, and dotted with a hundred islets, ranks
very high amongst the many natural beauties of the southern
province. It is but three miles from Ambalangoda and eleven
from Bentota, and, thanks to the railway, is so easy of access
that it should be visited by all tourists who stay at the rest-
houses of those places.
Ambalangoda Ambalangoda (52m. 62c). — Ambalangoda invites the
European resident in Ceylon and the visitor alike as a pleasant
seaside place where good accommodation and excellent food
can be obtained, and where the rare luxury of bathing in the
open sea can be enjoyed in perfect security.
The Resthouse is one of the most comfortable of its kind and
possesses eight bedrooms. The spacious enclosure surround-
ing slopes to the coast, where a natural barrier of rocks at
once protects the bather from the attacks of sharks and pre-
vents him from being carried out to sea by dangerous currents.
Our illustration (Plate 85) will give the reader some idea of
the natural features of the bath and its surroundings.
Local products The visitor will find other attractions, too, at Ambalangoda,
which with the surrounding hamlets has a population of 25,000
people, engaged mostly in agricultural pursuits. Coconuts,
tea, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products.
84. SINHALESE CHILDREN, SOUTH-WEST COAST.
85. COAST AT AMBALANGODA.

"
•»
86. DUTCH GATEWAY AT GALLE.

—
Hikkaduwa (6om. 14c.). This station serves a popula- Coast Line
tion of about 4,000, engaged in the cultivation of coconuts, Hikkaduwa
areca nuts, tea, paddy and cinnamon and in the preparation
;
of coral lime, plumbago mining and the manufacture of coir

yarn, lace, drum frames, and metal bowls used by Buddhist
monks.
Dodaxdtwa (64m. 13c). — Dodanduwa is famous for its Dodanduwa
plumbago and coir rope. supplies annually about 1,000
It
tons of the former and 300 tons of the latter. It possesses an
asset of natural beauty in Ratgama Lake, which is quite close
to the station. In the fields bordering this lake snipe shooting
is very good during the latter months of the vear.
About six miles west of Dodanduwa lies Baddegama,

renowned as the oldest mission station of the English
Church. The Church Missionary Society has the honour of
having made the first effort here, and the results have been
most encouraging.
—
Gixtota (68m. 28c). Gintota is a village of about 2,500 Qintota
inhabitants, most of whom are occupied in coconut planting
and the manufacture of coir rope from the fibre of the coconut
husk. Its interest to the visitor, however, centres in the lovely
scenery of the Ginganga, which here flows into the sea. The
source of this river is near Adam's Peak. In its course, which
is fifty-nine miles long, it drains no less than four hundred
square miles of land.
—
Galle (71m. 68c). Galle, the chief town of the Southern Qaiie
Province and seat of provincial government, claims consider-
able attention, combining as it does a wealth of historical
interest with great natural advantages. For upwards of a
thousand years before Colombo assumed any degree of mer-
cantile importance, Galle was known to the eastern world as
a famous emporium. The places hitherto visited by us have
for the most part greatly changed in character during the last
fifty years, and the descriptions of them by earlier writers
would not hold good to-day. But this venerable port of the
south is a striking exception, and the visitor will find very
little at variance with Sir Emerson Tennent's account, published
in the middle of the last century.
"No traveller fresh from Europe," says Tennent, "will Pkturesqne
ever part with the impression left by his first gaze upon fiat " r"
tropical scenery as it is displayed in the bay and the wooded
hills that encircle it ;for, although Galle is surpassed both in
grandeur and beauty by places afterwards seen in the island,
still the feeling of admiration and wonder called forth by its
loveliness remains vivid and unimpaired. If, as is frequently

the case, the ship approaches the land at daybreak, the view
recalls, but in an intensified degree, the emotions excited in
childhood bv the slow rising of the curtain in a darkened
Coast Line theatre todisclose some magical triumph of the painter's fancy,
in all theluxury of colouring and all the glory of light. The
sea, blue as sapphire, breaks upon the fortified rocks which
form the entrance to the harbour the headlands are bright
;
with verdure and the yellow strand is shaded by palm trees

;
that incline towards the sea, and bend their crowns above the
water. The shore is gemmed with flowers, the hills behind
are draped with forests of perennial green ; and far in the
distance rises the zone of purple hills, above which towers the
sacred mountain of Adam's Peak."
Galle in In modern times Galle has been the mart first of Portugal
modern times
and afterwards of Holland. The extensive fort constructed by
the Dutch is still one of the chief features of the place and
encloses the modern town. Although dismantled, few portions
of it have been destroyed, and the remains add greatly to the
picturesque character of the landscape. Amongst a large
number of interesting remains of the Dutch period are the
gateway of the fortress, the present entrance from the harbour,
and the Dutch church, both of which we illustrate. A steep
and shady street known as Old Gate Street ascends to the
principal part of the town.
Galle s
flourishing
The most flourishing period of Galle during the British
period occupation was that immediately preceding the construction
of the harbour at Colombo. Then Galle obtained by far the
largest share of the modern steamship trade. Its harbour was
always regarded as dangerous, owing to the rocks and currents
about the mouth but it was preferred to the open roadstead of
;
Colombo, and the P. & O. and other important companies

made use of it. Passengers for Colombo were landed at Galle,
and a coach service provided them with the means of reaching
their destination.
Besides the trade that follows on shipping, the town was
alive with such business as travellers bring. The local manu-
facturers of jewellery and tortoiseshell ornaments, for which
Galle has always been famous, met the strangers on arrival
and did a thriving business. In fact, Galle was a miniature
Vicissitudes
of what Colombo is to-day. But the new harbour of Colombo
sealed its fate. The manufacturers now send their wares to
Colombo, and the merchants have to a great extent migrated
thither. The prosperity of Galle has therefore suffered a
serious check; its fine hotel knows no "passenger days," its
bazaars are quiet and its streets have lost their whilom busy
aspect. Nevertheless, it is the seat of administration of a
large, populous and thriving province, and must always remain
a place of considerable importance. Its share of commerce
Consolations
will probablv increase as cultivation and mining still further
extend. It is a great centre of the coconut industry, which
has in recent years developed to a remarkable degree.
THE ENGLISH CHURCH GALLE.
89. THE DUTCH CHURCH, GALLE.

The visitor will be impressed with the cleanliness no less Coast Line
than the picturesque character of the streets, which are shaded streets md
by Suriya trees. The buildings, as will be seen from our photo- f^'"^'"'
graphs, are substantial and well-kept, some of the houses of
the wealthier residents being admirably planned for coolness.
Lighthouse Street contains the humbler dwellings; but even
here the houses are spacious, and each has along the entire
front a deep and shady verandah supported on pillars. This
street probably presented the same appearance during the
presence of the Dutch. The English Church of All Saints', Churches
visible in our photograph of Church Street, is the finest in
Ceylon, both in its architectural features and the manner of
its building.
The old Dutch Church, paved with tombstones and hung
with mural monuments of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, has now an antiquarian interest. It is still used
by the Presbyterian section of the inhabitants, and is well

worth the attention of the visitor as an excellent specimen of
the places of worship which the Dutch erected wherever they
formed a settlement. Churches and forts are the abiding
evidences of the solid determination of the Dutch to remain
in Ceylon. They had come to stay, and consequently spared no
cost or trouble to make their buildings of a permanent character.
The British colonists, on the other hand, make Ceylon their
temporary home, and seldom intend to die there consequently:
thev do not display great enthusiasm for permanent institu-

tions indeed, a whole century has passed without any attempt
;
to build a cathedral worthy of the name, and outside Galle

there is scarcely a beautiful English church in the island.
Galle possesses a municipal constitution the area within
;
the municipal limits is about seven square miles, with a

population of 37,000. The New Oriental Hotel, having
been built when Galle was the principal port of call between
Aden, the Far East and Australasia, possesses accommoda-
tion almost in excess of the present needs of travellers.
Pleasant driving excursions can be made among the environs
of Galle, which are always and everywhere delightful and
interesting. The traveller will find facilities of every kind in
the way of conveyances and boats, while banks, social clubs,
a golf club, and other institutions usual in large towns are at
hand.
—
Talpe (78m. 23c). Talpe railway station has been estab- Talpe
lished chiefly for goods traffic in the products of the coconut.
It is about two miles from the village, which has a population
of about 1,000. There is no rest-house or hotel.
Ahangama (84m. 24c). — Ahangama
has about 2,000 inhabi- Ahangama
tants engaged in cultivation of tea, coconuts, palmyra, paddv,
betel, arccas, pepper, plantains, cinnamon and citronella.
v
Coast Line Coggala Lake, about five square miles in extent, is two miles
distant from the station. Sport, particularly snipe and wild
boar, may be obtained in the neighbourhood.
Weligama —
Weligama (89m. 58c). Weligama is one of the many
interesting spots on the south coast where the currents have
scooped the shore into bays of exquisite beauty. Primitive
nature in her most delightful moods here greets the traveller,
who, after his recent experience of Galle, with all its drowsy
luxury of a later stage of civilisation, cannot fail to be struck
by the fact that Ceylon is a land of contrasts. Indeed it is
one of the charms of travel in this fascinating land that so
short a distance transports us from the up-to-date world to
the manners, customs and surroundings of past centuries, and
provides that change of thought and scene which induce the
mental and physical benefits which are to most of us the end
and object of our travel. There is a comfortable rest-house
three-quarters of a mile from the station, pleasantly situated
so as to command a good view of the bay. Good food and
accommodation, boats, hackeries and attendants are always
available. Excellent sport in fishing is obtainable. There are
many objects of interest which will be pointed out by the
villagers.
Loral products The population of Weligama is about 10,000. Its products
are coconuts, areca nuts, cinnamon, citronella and plumbago.
Lace and coir rope are its manufactures.
Kamburu- Kamburugamua (95m. —
4c). Kamburugamua railway
station serves the scattered villages which lie midway between
Weligama and Matara, having a population of about 6,000.
There are no facilities or accommodation beyond the mere
platform of the station, nor is there need for them as Matara
is only three miles distant. The chief products are coconuts,
citronella and vegetables. In some months of the year no less
than ten tons of pumpkins are despatched by rail to various
markets. Coir yarn and lace are manufactured in every
village. There is very good snipe shooting in the neighbour-
hood.
Matara —
Matara (98m. 36c). Matara, the present terminus of the
coast line, is a beautiful and interesting town of about 20,000
inhabitants, lying at the mouth of the Nil-ganga, or Blue
River, which flows into the sea within four miles of Dondra
Head, the southernmost point of the island. Apart from the
beauty of the river, which like all others in Cevlon is bordered
on either bank with the richest vegetation, the chief points of
interest in Matara are connected with Dutch antiquities. Of
these a short account only must suffice.
There are two forts and an old Dutch Church still in good
preservation to testifv to the importance with which Matara
was regarded in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
Coast Line The smaller is of the well-known star formation.
of the forts
The star fort It wa s by Governor Van Eck in 1763. The gateway is
built
in particularly good preservation, and although the arms above
the door are carved in wood every detail is still perfect. At
the present time this star fort serves as the residence of the
officer of the Public Works for the Matara district.
The main fo,t The larger fort consists of extensive stone and coral works
facing the sea and extending inwards on the south till thev
meet the river, which forms part of the defences. Within the
enclosure are most of the official buildings of the place, includ-
ing the Courts, the Kachcheri, and the residence of the
Assistant Government Agent. To these buildings must be
added the rest-house, which is important to travellers and
will be lound very comfortable. The appearance of the fort,
from within, is distinctly park-like and picturesque owing to
the beautiful trees which have been introduced in recent years.
These afford delightful shade and render a stroll beneath them
pleasant when the sun does not permit of walking in the open.
The land around Matara is extremely fertile and no place
could be more abundantly supplied with food, especially fish,
the variety of which is very large. The neighbourhood affords
most delightful walks and drives through the finest avenues of
umbrageous trees to be met with in Ceylon.
A/i-oanâ Our picture of the bathing-place on the banks of the Nil-
ganga possesses one peculiarity which may seem curious to
the European who is not acquainted with tropical rivers the —
fence of large stakes constructed to keep out the crocodiles.
Without bathing would be unsafe and would probably
this,
be indulged many a human life. This photo-
in at the cost of
graph also presents a typical scene in the background from
which some idea may be gathered of the recreation grounds
of a southern town in Ceylon. Here golf and cricket claim
their votaries as in larger places, and facilities for enjoying
these games are not wanting.
Local The local accommodation for travellers is considerable.
accommodation
Ladies will find a well-furnished waiting-room at the railway
station. The government rest-house is ten minutes' drive from
the station ;it has seven good bedrooms and spacious dining-
hall and verandahs. Horse carriages can be obtained at the

rate of one rupee for the first hour and twenty-five cents an
hour for subsequent time; and bullock hackeries can be
Local products obtained at twenty-five cents an hour. The chief local pro-
ducts are coconuts, paddy, betel, arecas, kurrakan, pepper,
plantains, cinnamon and citronella.
J\laiuifactutcs
The local manufactures are baskets, lace, jewellery, coir
and furniture.
Matara being an " Assistant Government Agency " is fur-
nished with courts and the residences of government officers.
CHAPTER V
THE MAIN LINE ITINERARY
The main line passenger trains leave Colombo at

at present
the Maradana Junction; but as alterations are in progress,
which will involve a change in the location of the main
passenger station, it will be advisable to obtain the latest
information at the date of travelling.
Leaving Colombo, the main line passes through marshy
lands and backwaters until at the second mile the River Kelani
is crossed and a fine view afforded on either side. At the
fourth mile the first station appears, and although it is situated
in the village of Paliyagoda it takes its name of Kelaniya from
the district.
—
Kelaniya (3m. 49c). There is no hotel or rest-house Kelaniya
accommodation at Kelaniya, nor are there any conveyances for * '***
hire with the exception of bullock-hackeries, which, however,
will generally be found sufficient for all requirements. The
agricultural products are coconuts, paddy and vegetables.
The women of the villages are chiefly occupied in carrying the
vegetables upon their heads to the markets of Colombo, and
large numbers of them will be noticed engaged in this useful
work. The chief native industry is the manufacture of bricks
and tiles for building purposes. Our illustration (Plate 91)
gives a very good idea of a tile yard in it can be seen some
;
of the oldest fashioned tiles, which are semi-cvlindrical. These

have been superseded to some extent by the flat-shaped pattern
from Southern India but for simplicity, general utility and
;
coolness thev have no equal. Other industries of Kelaniya are

the desiccating of coconuts for purposes of confectionery, and
the storage and preparation of artificial manures for the tea
and other estates. The latter is a business of considerable
magnitude.
* The number of feet {riven in the margins indicate the elevations of

the station above sea level.
69
xuc muco KP' 4fJI
92. SCEN
But the chief object of interest to the visitor is the Kelaniya Main Une
Wihare (Buddhist Temple), which is held in great veneration
by all the Buddhists of the lowlands, and to which many

thousands come on full-moon days, bearing gifts of fruit,
money and flowers for the shrine. This building stands near
the river bank, about two and a half miles from the railway
station. The present temple is about two hundred years old,
but its dagaba or bell-shaped shrine is much older and was
probably erected in the thirteenth century. The site is, how-
ever, one referred to in history and legend in far more remote
antiquity. The image of Buddha, thirty-six feet in length, and
the brilliant frescoes depicting scenes in his various lives, are
fittingly found in the place which he is supposed to have visited
in person during his life. However much traditions may
transcend the limits of strict historical verity, it is undoubted
that Kelaniya was a place of considerable fame in early times,
and it is not surprising that its venerable temple and its sacred
shrine attract both pilgrims from afar and non-Buddhist sight-
seers of many nationalities, especially as the railway has added
so much to the facilities for reaching them.
Hunupitiya (5m. 42c). — Hunupitiya is best known to

Colombo people for its rifle range, where practice is carried on
by the military and police from Colombo. The accommodation
is limited to the large waiting hall of the railway station and
a restaurant called the Hunupitiya Bar, about one hundred
yards from the station. Coconuts and paddy are the chief
agricultural products, while small plots of betel, arecas and
plantains are also cultivated. The manufactures are limited to
coir yarn spun from the husks of the coconut.
Raoa.ua Junction (9m.). — At Ragama cultivation increases Ragama

in variety, and we notice both tea and cinnamon in addition to Junction
the coconuts and paddy. The inhabitants of the village are
Sinhalese, and number about 2,500 irrespective of those who
are temporarily in the observation camp, an institution from
which Ragama derives much of its present importance. The
reason for the existence of this camp is found in the fact that
Ceylon is dependent upon India for the supply of labour for the
tea estates, involving a constant immigration of Tamil coolies
to the extent of about 150,000 per annum. In order that these
new-comers should not import disease into the various districts
of Ceylon they are, immediately upon disembarkation at
Colombo, placed in quarters specially provided at the root of
the breakwater. Here they are subjected to a thorough inspec-
tion, bathed and fed. Next they are entrained on the spot and
conveyed to Ragama, where they are kept under observation
until it is considered safe for them to proceed to their various
Main Line destinations. During the Boer War a large number of recalci-
trant prisoners-of-\var were removed from the delightful camp
of Diyatalawa and placed here in order that thev might not
infect the rest with their discontent.
Ragama is the junction for the branch line to Negombo,
1 4/2 miles in length. The line runs through typical local
scenery and cinnamon and coconut plantations. Negombo,
which is situated on the sea, is an exceedingly pretty town,
and even before the advent of the railway was a favourite motor
run, the rest-house keeper being noted for his fish breakfasts.
(See also Negombo section, pages 230-232). Near Ragama
are the famous Mahara quarries whence was obtained
all the stone for the construction of the breakwaters and
harbour works of Colombo. Another quarry has been opened
close by the old one for the supply of stone for protective
works on the coast line and other railway requirements.
The branch railway line which will be noticed diverging to the
right leads to the quarries.
Henaratgoda
3 6/l rf
'
—
Hexar atgoda (16m. 40c). Henaratgoda is a busy little
town of about 5,000 inhabitants, situated amidst well-watered
fields and gardens whose products are of considerable variety
and importance. Gardens devoted to the culture of the bete!
Local pioduds vine are in evidence, and supply railway freight to the extent
of twenty tons of leaves a week in addition to large loads
depatched by other means. The district also produces areca
nuts, pepper, cinnamon, rubber, tea, paddv and coconuts.
Its chief interest, however, centres in the Botanic Gardens,
where we may see some of the finest Para rubber trees in the
colony. Many passengers from various countries who call at
the port ol Colombo make a trip to Henaratgoda for the special
purpose of seeing these trees. The railway and other facilities
afforded render the journey easv and comfortable. There is a
good rest-house near the station and refreshments are pro-
curable without previous notice. Buggies or hackeries can be
Botanic Gardens hired near the station for driving to the gardens about a mile
distant. The usual charge is twenty-five cents or fourpence
a mile. The garden is one of a number of such institutions
that are under the Government Department of Botany and
Agriculture with headquarters at Peradeniya, where its Director
and his extensive scientific staff of experts reside. The
Henaratgoda gardens were opened in 1876 for the purpose
of making experiments in ascertaining suitable subjects for
cultivation in the heated lowlands. It was about this time that
the Para rubber seed was planted, and manv of the trees that
we see there to-dav are therefore upwards of thirty years old.
These, together with others more recently planted, provide an
excellent and encouraging object lesson to the investor in the
latest " boom " of tropical culture.
93. HENARATGODA RAILWAY STATION.
94. RUBBER TREES IN HENARATGODA GARDENS.

Photo by Air. Kelway Bai>ibcr.
05. RUBBER TREES, HENARATGODA. RUBBER PLANTED AMONQ TEA.
97. VILLAGE SCENE, VEYANGODA.

Although the Royal Botanic Gardens at Henaratgoda have
recently been so much regarded as the show place of rubber
trees to the neglect of all else, the visitor will find many fine-
specimens of other useful trees and plants, including ebony and
satinwood. The cultivated area is about thirty acres.
Veyangoda (22m. 54c). — Veyangoda, the first stop of the
fast trains to Kandy, lies midway between Negombo on the
west coast and Ruanwella in the Kelani Valley, and derives
its importance from the main road between these places which
on the one side contributes a large freight in dried fish from
the coast for the estate coolies in the hills, and on the other
tea and various products for the port of Colombo. The large
factory visible from the railway is the desiccating factory of
the Orient Company.
There is a good rest-house, about five minutes' walk from
the station, situated on a knoll overlooking the railway line,
containing two single and two double bedrooms. Food should
be ordered in advance.
The village of Veyangoda is about three miles from the
railway station, upon the old Colombo-Kandy road. Near it,
at the twenty-fourth mile from Colombo, is situated the his-
toric residence of Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike, C.M.G., The Maha
the Maha Mudaliyar of Ceylon (a title signifying the head of Mudaliyar
the Mudaliyars or low-country chieftains). The present Maha
Mudaliyar is also native aide de camp to his Excellency the
Governor of the Colony, and amongst the duties of his office
is that of presenting on State occasions the various native
dignitaries to the Governor.
Mirigama (30m. —
54c). To the traveller proceeding to
Kandy for the time the lowland scenery, as the train
first
proceeds from station to station, is an ever fascinating
panorama. He cannot fail to feel enchanted bv the alternating
scenes of primitive husbandry, glimpses of villages embosomed
in palms, magnificent groups of tropical trees, and particularly
with the effect of the masses of thick forest broken up at fre-
quent intervals by deep recesses devoted to the cultivation of
paddy. From November to January, when the corn is rising
from its watery bed, snipe and other aquatic birds appear
in large numbers between Veyangoda and Rambukkana and
afford excellent sport. In February and March the attention
is arrested by the quaint operations of harvest, which are con-
ducted with a ceremonial to be illustrated and described later
in connection with the Kandyan villages.
The country around Mirigama is very favourable to the
cultivation of the coconut, as is evidenced by the remarkable
yield of fruit on many of the trees. It is not often, however,
that the traveller can spare the time to inspect the various
-G THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Main Line features of interest in this important branch of tropical agri-
Mi, culture, but he may as he passes through it welcome some
account in these pages supplemented by illustrations that
belong to the district. Its ubiquity is often the only thing
noticed by the visitor about the coconut palm, and from this
arises the erroneous supposition that it is an indigenous plant,
whereas the native saying that it will not flourish away from
the sound of the human voice is nearer the truth. The coconut
is the chief source of Sinhalese wealth ;but unlike cinnamon
it depends upon man for its existence, and if left to nature
pines and dies. It is true, therefore, that wherever you see
the coconut palm there is population. Although European
colonists have considerably extended its cultivation it is pre-
eminently the national tree, the friend of the natives, all of
whom share in its benefits, from the wealthy owner of
tens of thousands of trees to the humble possessor of a tithe
of one.
I ses of
coco/utt
(lie
There are few gifts of the earth about which so much may
be said its uses are infinite, and to the Sinhalese villager all
;
sufficient. " With the trunk of the tree he builds his hut and
his bullock-stall, which he thatches with its leaves. His bolts
and bars are slips of the bark, by which he also suspends the
small shelf which holds his stock of home-made utensils and
vessels. He fences his little plot of chillies, tobacco and fine
grain, with the leaf stalks. The infant is swung to sleep in
a rude net of coir-string made from the husk of the fruit ; its
meal of rice and scraped coconut is boiled over a fire of coco-
nut shells and husks, and is eaten off a dish formed of the
plaited green leaves of the tree with a spoon cut out of the
nut-shell. When he goes fishing by torch-light his net is of
coconut fibre, the torch or chulc is a bundle of dried coconut
leaves and flower-stalks ;the little canoe is the trunk of the
coco-palm tree, hollowed by his own hands. He carries home
his net and string of fish on a yoke, or pingo, formed of a
coconut stalk. When he is thirsty, he drinks of the fresh
juice of the voung nut ; when he is hungry, he eats its soft
kernel. If he have a mind to be merry, he sips a glass of
arrack, distilled from the fermented juice, and he flavours his
currv with vinegar made from this toddy. Should he be sick,
his body will be rubbed with coconut oil; he sweetens his
coffee with jaggery or coconut sugar, and softens it with
coconut milk it is sipped by the light of a lamp constructed
;
from a coconut shell and fed by coconut oil. His doors, his
windows, his shelves, his chairs, the water gutter under the
eaves, are all made from the wood of the tree. His spoons,
his forks, his basins, his mugs, his salt-cellars, his jars, his
child's money-box, are all constructed from the shell of the nut.
Over his couch when born, and over his grave when buried, a
98. RESIDENCE OF THE MAHA MUDAL1YAR-' SIR* 'SOLOMON DIAS BANDARANAIKE.
09. A PROLIFIC TREE, 100. A COCONUT GROVE.

101. THE CHEKKU OR OIL MILL.
102. MIRIGAMA COCONUT ESTATE.

bunch of coconut blossom is hung to charm away evil Main Line

spirits."*
As an object Export of oil
of commerce coconut oil, of which upwards and ji bra
of 5,000,000 gallons are annually exported, holds the first
place. Next in importance is the fibre of the husk known as
coir. This exported to the extent of about 10,000 tons
is
annually. The export
of copra (the dried kernel of the nuts)
amounts annually to about 375,000 cwt., while that of
the desiccated nut for confectionery amounts to upwards of
16,000,000 lbs. From this recital of figures it will be rightly
surmised that a very small proportion of the annual yield of
nuts leave the country in their natural state, nearly all the
export trade being in manufactured products. One thousand
millions is a reasonable estimate of the year's supply of coco-
nuts in Ceylon, about two-fifths of which are exported in the
form of oil, copra, confectionery and husked fruit, the re-
mainder being consumed by the population chiefly as food and
drink.
In Colombo there are mills containing machinery of the Coconut mill

most powerful and ingenious character for the expression of
the oil from the coconuts. Their design and construction are
the jealously guarded secret of the firms who own them, and
a mystery to the general public; but the " chekku " or Sin-
halese mill illustrated by plate 101 will not escape the notice
of the stranger. There are about three thousand of them in
Ceylon. This primitive apparatus consists of a large mortar, ihechekku
generally of hewn stone, but sometimes of iron or wood, with
a pestle worked by a lever which is drawn in a circle by a
pair of bullocks. The rude construction of the apparatus,
weighted at the end of the lever with roughly hewn rocks
upon which the scantily clad driver disports himself, and the
ear-splitting creaks of the timber as the poor little bullocks
communicate motion to the pestle by means of their humps
form one of those typical Oriental scenes which have not
changed for a thousand years, and victoriously hold their
own against the innovations of the foreigner even in this
age of scientific appliances.
The average yield per annum of a coconut tree is about
fifty nuts, but exceptionally prolific trees are common enough
on well cultivated plantations, and of these the yield may
reach one hundred and fifty or more. A specimen is given in
plate 99. It will be observed that at least fifty nuts are clearly
visible, and as many more are hidden from view. The yield Prolific bees
of this fine tree must be upwards of two hundred in the year.
* This charming description of the Sinhalese villager's necessities
supplied by this bountiful palm is from the pen of the late Mr. John
Capper.
So THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Main Line The nature of the soil and the method of cultivation doubtless
account for difference incrop as they do in other branches of
agriculture.
The stranger from Europe often makes his first close
acquaintance with the unhusked coconut at the railway stations
of Ceylon, where little brown urchins, with hatchet in one
hand and in the other several nuts suspended by stalks, peram-
bulate the platforms shouting " Kurumba, Kurumba. " The
thirsty traveller is thus invited to drink the water of the fresh
coconut, which is at once wholesome, cool and refreshing.
Local At Mirigama the traveller is accommodated in a neat little
ticcommoda tion
rest-house containing four bedrooms and the usual dining hall
and verandahs. It is situated a mile from the railway station
in an elevated position commanding beautiful scenery. Food
can be obtained here without being ordered in advance. Good
hackeries can be hired at twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile.
The manufactures comprise baskets, such furniture and
bullock-conveyances as are required for local use, and desic-
cated coconut to the extent of about one hundred tons a
month. There are plumbago mines in the district from which
about one hundred and fifty tons per month are despatched by
rail. Betel leaf is also grown for the supply of distant markets
to the extent of about six tons per month. The goods and
passenger traffic at Mirigama testify to a very flourishing trade.
Ambepussa
itejeet
Ambepussa (34m. 45c). —Ambepussa possesses the general
characteristics of Mirigama, and these need not be again
described but the area served by the railway station is not so
;
large. The village from which it derives its name is four miles
away upon the old highway to Kandy, whereas the station in
reality is situated in the village of Keendeniya. Ambepussa was
a place of importance in earlier times, and owns a rest-house
more than usually capacious, built upon an eminence over-
looking' charming country and possessing extensive grounds.
It is, however, essential for the traveller to give notice of his
intended arrival if he is likely to require provisions. The
country here becomes more mountainous and the Maha-oya runs
a wild and tortuous course. The climate is exceedingly hot.
Good snipe shooting is to be had from November to February
as well as hare, wild boar and deer.
Alawwa
igo/l-ct
Alawwa (40m. 24c). — Alawwa is one of the least important
of the main The scenery, however, becomes more
line stations.
varied in character as we pass through this district. The
railway runs parallel to the Maha-oya, which affords oppor-
tunities to the snap-shotter for there are many exquisite vistas
;
between the clumps of bamboo that decorate the banks and ;
with the present day rapid lenses and focal-plane-shutters

photography from a moving train is not impossible, as some
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY Si
of the illustrations in this volume prove. Before the railway Main Line
opened up this district to cultivation it was so malarious that
it is said that every sleeper laid took its toll of a human life,
so terrible was the death rate from the fever-laden miasma of
some of the tracts of jungle-land that had to be penetrated.
—
Polgahawela (45m. 34c). Polgahawela is the junction Polgahawela
2 ^ Jce
station for the Northern line (and in the early future for India).
Passengers arc afforded ever)' facility for comfort. There is
a refreshment room under the management of the Refreshment
Car Company, where meals can be obtained. There is also a
rest-house quite near the station with bedrooms. Light re-
freshments can be obtained. The agriculture of the district is
the same as described in connection with Mirigama, with the
considerable addition of plantains, which are grown here ex-
tensively for markets which arc brought into reach by the
railway, about one hundred and fifty tons being despatched in
the course of each month. This station serves the large and
important district of Kcgalle, the distance to the town of Kegalle
Kegalle being ten miles in a southerly direction, and to which
there is a mail-coach service conveying European passengers
for a fare of two rupees. The traveller who is intending to
see all the most interesting and beautiful places in Ceylon
should not omit Kegalle from his itinerary. It provides a
pleasant excursion from Kandy either by motor car or by rail
to Polgahawela and thence by coach. The situation of the
town is lovely and the scenery by which it is encompassed is
exquisite, while the antiquities scattered throughout the
district are too numerous to mention here.'" One of the most
interesting, however, is so near to Polgahawela, being only Antiqmtie
two and a half miles distant on the coach road to Kegalle,
that some reference to it must be made. This is an old
Buddhist temple known as Wattarama, built in the third
ccnturv and endowed with the lands and villages around it by
King Gothabhaya. Its age is attested no less by ancient
writings and traditions than by the interesting remains.
Beside the ruins of the original edifice, consisting of large
monolith pillars and various steps and door-frames, there is a
group of buildings of various later dates composed partlv of
ancient materials.
About a mile from the railway station, at (lalbodagamakanda,
may be seen twelve granite pillars, the only remains of a
beautiful palace said to have been built by King Bhuwenake
Bahu II., in A.n. 1319, lor his sixty-seven beautiful queens!
A large number of Talipot Palms are to be seen between Talipot palms
Polgahawela and Kandy and fortunate will the traveller be
;
* The antiquarian who explores

this District should provide himself
with a copy of the " Report on the Kcgalle District " by the Archaeo-
logical Commissioner obtainable at the Government Record Office,
;
Colombo ;
price, six rupees.
Main Line who happens to pass through this district when a large number
of them are in flower. The botanical world offers no more
beautiful sight than this. The period when it may be enjoyed
is, however, quite uncertain, as the flower bursts forth once
only in the lifetime of the tree when it is approaching its
hundredth year. It occasionally happens that scores of trees
are in flower at one time, while at another not one may be
seen.
Rambukkana —
Rambukkana (52m. lie). At Rambukkana the ascent into
2 9°/«' the Kandyan Mountains begins, and the landscape assumes an
aspect of fascinating grandeur. If Ceylon presented no other
spectacle of interest to the traveller it would still be worth his
while to visit Kandy if only to see the panorama that unfolds
itself as the train moves upward in its winding and intricate
course on the scarped sides of the mountains overlooking the
lovely Dekanda valley. An additional powerful engine is now
attached to the rear of our train, and so sharp are
the curves that it is frequently possible for the passenger
seated in the train to see both engines or from his;
seat to take a photograph including in the landscape a

Scenery oj the large portion of the train in which he is travelling. At
/"ISS one moment, on the edge of a sheer precipice, we are
gazing downwards some thousand feet below at another ;
we are looking upwards at a mighty crag a thousand feet

above from the curves by which we climb the mountain
;
sides fresh views appear at every turn far-reaching valleys

;
edged by the soft blue ranges of distant mountains and filled

with luxuriant masses of dense forest, relieved here and there
by the vivid green terraces of the rice fields cascades of lovely
;
flowering creepers, hanging in festoons from tree to tree and

from crag to crag above and below deep ravines and foaming
;
waterfalls dashing their spray into mist as it falls into the

verdurous abyss fresh mountain peaks appearing in ever-
;
changing grouping as we gently wind along the steep

gradients daring crossings from rock to rock, so startling
;
as to unnerve the timid as we pass over gorges cleft in the

mountain side and look upon the green depths below, so near
the edge of the vertical precipice that a fall from the carriage
would land us sheer sixteen hundred feet below the lofty ;
Talipot is flourishing on either side the scattered huts and

;
gardens, and the quaint people about them, so primitive in

their habits which vary little from those of two thousand years
—
ago these are some of the features of interest as we journey
into the Kandyan district.
Theprecipitous mountain of Allagalla which we illustrate
is the most conspicuous feature of the landscape. Our
train creeps along upon its steep side of granite. The
track is visible in our picture (Plate 103) like a belt passing
103. ALLAGALLA. THE STREAK OF FIRE.
104. THE DEKANDA VALLEY. PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TRAIN WHILE

Photo by Pldti & i
105. SENSATION ROCK.

around the rock. The peak towers aloft 2,500 feet above us, Main Line
while the beautiful valley a thousand feet below.
lies On the
far side of that peak lies Hataraliyadda, a warm but radiant
valley, where primeval manners and customs are yet unin-
fluenced by the march of western civilisation.
Allagalla
Allagalla is always majestic, but most beautiful immediately
after excessive rainfall, when it is literally besprinkled with
cataracts, some of which burst forth many hundreds of feet
above the railway, and dash into the valleys some thousand feet
below, increasing in volume and gathering enormous impetus
as they pass under the line in deep fissures. The height of
Allagalla is 3,394 feet. Tea grows upon its steep acclivities,
and those who are occupied in its cultivation on these giddy
heights are enviable spectators of the most varied and beautiful
atmospheric scenes that are to be found in Ceylon. Unsettled
weather is extremelv frequent and is productive of an endless
variety of cloud and storm effects over the wonderful valley
which undulates below until in the far distance it is backed by
the rugged mountains opposed to Allagalla and which reach
a greater height. At one time a vast sea of mists is rolling
in fleecy clouds over the lowland acres and the summits of the
hills are standing out from it like wooded islands ;at another
every shape of the beautiful landscape is faultlessly defined
and every colour is vivid beneath the tropical sun then an ;
hour or two will pass and rolling masses of dense black vapours
will approach the mountain while the sunbeams play on the
distant hills; now the sun becomes obscured, a streak of fire
(Plate 103) flashes through the black mass and immediately the
whole mountain seems shaken by the terrific peal of thunder.
Then follows a downpour at the rate of a full inch an hour ;
the cascades turn to roaring cataracts, the dry paths to rush-

ing torrents and the rivulets to raging floods. The rice-fields
suddenly become transformed into lakes and the appearance of
the valleys suggests considerable devastation by water but
;
it is not so : the torrent passes away almost as suddenly as

it comes, and the somewhat bruised and battered vegetation
freshens and bursts into new life as the heavy pall of purple
cloud disperses and the gleams of the golden sun return to
cheer its efforts. That tea or anything else should grow on
these rocky slopes is one of the marvels of this wonderful land.
Our attention will perhaps be mostlv attracted to the
Dekanda Valley (Plate 104). The terraced rice-fields, the bcauti- Dekamla
ful trees, plants and creepers upon the slopes beneath us, the
distant mountains rising in tiers on all sides and o'erhung with
vapours whose forms and contrasts of tone from the deepest
black to the purest white are almost always present, the curious
—
shapes displayed by the heights all these contribute to make
our slow progress seem all too rapid.
We are now in the freshness of mountain air and have left
behind us the steamy low-country, where the simmering heat,
although the efficient cause of the beautiful features of the
landscape, is nevertheless somewhat trying to our energies. For
thirteen miles we have been slowly crawling round the moun-
tain sides, ever moving upwards, till at length, through a
narrow pass, we emerge upon one of the ledges of the
mountain system. Here the brave Kandyans held their capital
for centuries against all the attempts of Europeans to take it.
An ancient There was an ancient prophecy current amongst them that
prophecy
fulfilled
whoever should pierce the rock and make a road into Kandy
from the plains would receive the kingdom as his reward. The
prophecy was at length fulfilled by the British, who made the
road, pierced the rock and secured the safe and permanent
possession of the prize. The scene of the exploit is now
before us.
106. THE FULFILMENT OF A PROPHECY.
From the train we may see the road and the pierced rock
as illustrated by our plate. The eminence rising above this
rock is known as Scouts' Hill from the circumstance that the
Kandyans jealously guarded this gate to their kingdom with
their forces always in readiness, should an enemy appear from
the low-country. Each inhabitant was subject to sentinel duty
and thousands were kept at posts overlooking the plains
around, many even having to keep their watch on the tops
of trees commanding extensive views of the whole country
round, so that no person could get either in or out of the
kingdom unobserved and without permission. Indeed, so
jealous were the apprehensions of the Kandyan monarch when
the British appeared in Ceylon that a strict system of pass- Main Line
ports from one district to another was adopted.
A lofty column comes into view as a signal that we have The Damson
"""'""""'
arrived at the top of the pass. Both road and rail here con-
verge and make their entrance into the Kandyan country
together, the road being most picturesque at its entrance to
Kadugannawa. The monument is not, as is often supposed,
in commemoration of the introduction of the railway, but a
memorial to Captain Dawson of the Royal Engineers, who
planned and superintended the construction of the road. It
was erected by public subscription in 1832.
—
Kadugannawa (65m.). At Kadugannawa we are at once in Kadugannawa
most interesting Kandyan country, its chief attractions to us i,6go/eet
being the singular beauty of the road scenery and the historical
temples in the district.
Now that we have reached the region where both climate
and opportunity combine in offering inducements to the tra-
veller to visit the interesting wilu'tres, pansalas and dcwales
which are so closely associated with Buddhist life and thought
in Ceylon, it is fitting to pause for a moment for the definition
of terms with which we must now become familiar.
Wihdre and strictly means a temple of Buddha with wih&res
literally
an altar over which is placed an image of the Buddha. In
general use, however, the term includes three or four buildings :
the pansala, or abode of the priests; the dagaba, or dome-

shaped monument, which usually enshrines some relic ;the
bodhimaluwa, or platform and altar surrounding a sacred
bo-tree, and the wihare or temple of the image. In large
pansalas, accommodating a number of monks, there is usually
a poya-ge or hall in which the monks recite their confessions.
To some of the temples there is also attached a bana maduwa,
or preaching hall, where the Buddhist scriptures are read and
expounded.
The history of the de-wale offers a striking example of the Dewdks
adoption and absorption by a conquering religion of deities
previously in possession of the field. As Rome took to herself
many of the deities of the Hellenic world, and as even later
religious systems are not altogether untinctured by those they
have superseded, so the victorious Buddhism that invaded
Ceylon in the early part of the third century B.C. felt the in-
fluence of the Hindu gods worshipped by the earlier colonists
and by the Tamils who came into the island at a later date.
It was impossible, however, for the self-denying faith of Buddha
to incorporate in its mild and humane cult repugnant features
of the dethroned faith. The only course then was to substitute
for their objectionable characteristics others more in conformity
with the precepts of Gotama. In this way Vishnu, the second
person of the Hindu trinity, becomes the tutelary deity of the
Main Line island, while the third person, Siva, adopted under the name
of Xata, is the Expected of the next Kalpa, the new Buddha
who is to reign in succession to the present. Kataragam, the
Hindu god of war, is honoured for the aid given by him to
Rama, when the latter invaded Ceylon and defeated the demon-
king Ravana in order to rescue Sita from captivity. To these
three deities, and to Pattini, the goddess of chastity, the
majority of the de-wales will be found to be dedicated.
Cadaiadeniya Gadaladeniya is within easy reach of Kadugannawa. Two

and a half miles distant, upon the main road to Kandy, at a
place called Embilmigama, near the sixty-fifth mile stone from
Colombo, a pathway on the south side leads to a typical temple
village, three-quarters of a mile from the main road. Here on
a small hill will be found one of the most interesting and pic-
turesque imihdres in Ceylon, the Gadaladeniya. A considerable
portion of the building is original and dates from a.d. 1344.
A most pleasant excursion can be made to this temple by
driving from Kandy, seven miles, or by rail to Kadugannawa,
and thence by hackery, the cost of which is thirty cents a mile.
Lanliatiiaki The most beautiful of all the Kandyan temples, the Lanka-
tilake, may
be reached by continuing the bridle path for about
two and a half miles past Gadaladeniya. It is hoped that at
an early date this bridle path will be converted into a cart road,
when it will be possible to drive from Kandy to both these
ancient temples. Lankatilake may also be reached from Kandy
via Peradeniya Junction lour and a half miles, and thence by
a minor road to Dawulagala, three and a half miles, after which
a footpath must be taken for the last mile.
Embekke dewdle is nearly a mile distant by bridle path from

Dawulagala. Architecturally this temple is very interesting.
Still another romantic and historical spot is to be reached

by turning' off the main road at the same place, namely Embil-
migama, about two and a half miles from Kadugannawa, and
at the sixty-fifth mile stone from Colombo; but this time we
take the minor road on the north side leading to Siyambala-
goda (three miles), and from this village it is three-quarters of
a mile walk to Dodanwala Maha dewule, a temple of great
historical interest, and containing many relics of the battle
between the Kandyans, under Rajah II., and the Portuguese.
Kadugannawa is said to have been a health resort in earlier

times, and with its salubrious air,good supply of pure
its
spring water, the grandeur of its scenery and its proximity to
interesting places it is still deserving of the attention of Kand-
yans as a charming suburb.
(Sr
*3™
ENTS7V, r/0/y
^?tBlM
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS,
PERADENIYA.
—
Peradeniya Junction (70m. 46c). Here the fast trains of Peradeniya
Junction
the main line are divided the Kandy and Matale portion pro-
;
ceeding northwards, and the Bandarawela part to the south

with the passengers for Nuwara Eliya and the Uva country.
Proceeding in the Kandy train we next come to
—
Peradeniya New (70m. 86c). Peradeniya New is the Peradeniya
station for the Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, world- Boianic
famed for their usefulness and their beauty. Here, in a situa- Gardens
157? feet
tion perfectly ideal from whatever point of view it is regarded,
is a marvellous collection of living specimens of the flora of
the whole tropical world, as well as the great herbarium and
museum of Ceylon plants. The term Royal Botanic Gardens,
however, stands for something vastly more important than the
great show-place of floral wonders which has gained their wide
repute. From their inception a century ago they have been
organised to foster and assist agricultural enterprise but in ;
recent years the scope of their usefulness in this direction has

been so widened and developed that the title now indicates a
government department of botany and agriculture presided
over by a director and staff of scientific specialists in botany,
chemistry, mycology and entomology, under whose direction
all agricultural possibilities are put to the test and experimental
culture carried on in various parts of the country. Thus not
only are all useful and ornamental trees and plants of other
countries introduced into the colony, but technical and scientific
advice and instruction are given as to every condition that
makes for success in culture, in the treatment and prevention
of diseases of plant life and the destruction and prevention of
insect pests. In no country is more assistance for agriculturists
provided by the Government, whose attitude to the native is
truly paternal for it supplies him with seeds, advice and in-
;
struction, free of cost

it cares for his prosperity
; finds out ;
what it desirable for him to grow and experiments upon the

is
product for him ; advises him upon every point, and periodically
inquires how he is getting on.
The gardens are situated within a loop made by the
Mahaweliganga, which forms a peninsula of about a mile in
length with a minimum breadth of six hundred yards. The
enclosure covers one hundred and fifty acres, and the elevation
above sea-level is 1,600 feet. The general configuration will
be seen by a glance at our plan. The facilities for inspecting
the plants could scarcely be improved upon, and although the
greatest enjoyment will generally fall to the pedestrian, the
roads over which driving is permissible afford good opportuni-
ties for those who like to take their pleasures lazily.
The task
of exploring the gardens will prove easy enough
with the help of our plan, and the directing boards that are
Peradeniya erected at the entrance to the various drives and walks. The
Gardens botanist will find the principal plants and trees labelled.
The red Upon approaching' the main entrance there will be noticed
cotton tree
quite near the rest-house the fine specimen of the red cotton-
tree (Bombax malabaricurn). This is the tree known locally
as Katu-imbul, and is one of the few trees in Ceylon that are
deciduous. Its most attractive period is January or February,
when it presents a gorgeous spectacle, due to its being literally
covered with large fleshy flowers of bright scarlet hue, which
it showers in profusion upon the green sward, thus providing
for itself the rich setting of a carpet of blossoms.

Assam
"•'"''"'"
On the left of the entrance to the gardens we arc now
attracted by a grove of Assam rubber trees {Fiats elastica).
The little plant with its bright green oval leaves, which in
England we are accustomed to see in sitting-rooms and con-
servatories, grows in its native land to an enormous size, and
throws out horizontal boughs to an extent of more than fifty
feet. It is most remarkable, however, for its snake-like roots,
which extend from the base of the trunk to a distance greater
than the height of the tree.
We now pass into the stately enclosure where the botanic
splendour in which Ceylon is so richly clothed from shore to
The entrance shore reaches its supreme display. On either side of the en-
trance is a tall African palm (Ehicis guineensis), the seeds
of which yield the palm oil of commerce The pillars of the
gates arc apparelled with a graceful creeper from Brazil
(Bignonia unguis), which flowers in April.
Magnificent Immediately opposite the gates we are arrested in amaze-
groitpof ment at the sight of a magnificent group of palms. An
example of each kind indigenous to the island, together witli
many noble specimens of foreign lands, appears in the stately
assemblage, wreathed in flowering creepers and surrounded
with sprays of elegant ferns.
The Talipot Avenue, near the river on the left, and easily
found by reference to our plan, is one of the most striking
features we shall meet with, its shades of colour in green and
gold affording delight to the artistic eye.
All European ideas of a garden must be discarded if we
wish to realise the general features of Peradeniya. There is
an entire absence of formal arrangement, but the beautiful
—
undulation of the land produces a grand effect a garden and
park combined, under conditions the most favourable for both.
"Here Nature asserts herself almost uncontrolled; she gives
us grandeur of form, wealth of foliage, exuberance of growth,
—
and splendour of colour unfading beauties but of a quite
different kind from those of the sweet summer flower-gardens
or the well-kept stoves and greenhouses of England." Of
109. ASSAM RUBBER TREE.
110. THE TALIPOT AVENUE.

111. RIVER VIEW, EASTERN DRIVE.
112. THE PAPAW. 113. BRIDOE VIEW.

course the primary object of the garden is scientific instruction,
but the picturesque must have been kept well in view in plant-
ing the groups of trees and arranging the various families of
plants.
If we turn to the left along Lake Road we shall notice
many and ornamental trees; amongst them the Amherstia
lofty
nobilis, from Burma, while many are completely shrouded
in flowering creepers, which trail in graceful forms from great
heights. The Thunbergia, with its lovely bell-shaped blossoms,
creeps in masses over the fine old tree trunks which it clothes
in the same bountiful manner. Near this spot are to be seen
gamboge trees and some curious African trees with long
pendulous fruits. The Brazil nut tree (Bertholetia excelsa)
is also in evidence here. Continuing in the same direction we
soon arrive at the amateur photographer's paradise, the most
photographed spot in the garden. Here is a charming pool,
and round about it a multitude of singularly beautiful foliage
subjects that can be combined with its glistening waters.
As we approach the corner at the extreme south of the
gardens, the features are varieties of succulent
noticeable
plants, the graceful papaw
(Carica papaya) laden with its enor-
mous fruits suspended beneath a crown of beautifully shaped
leaves. The papaw (Plate 112) is frequently spoken of as the
poor man's fruit from the fact of its fertility, its many useful
properties and its general distribution, for it is seen in every
poor man's garden. In appearance it resembles a green melon
and has an orange-yellow flesh of sweet and pleasant flavour.
Papain, from which it derives its digestive properties, is said to
be superior to the animal product known as pepsin. The stem
of the tree has a pretty pattern of diamond shape and fre-
quently grows to a height of fifteen to twenty feet. Many
young palms of exceedingly beautiful foliage will also be
admired here, within the loop formed by the drive. Aloes,
agaves and screw pines (Pandanus) abound. The screw pine,
with its scarlet fruits, tempting only to monkeys, its glossy
sword-like leaves, its forked cylindrical stem so beautifully
chased, and its strange stilt-like roots, presents a fantastic
appearance.
Weretrace our way through the Talipot Avenue, and pass Talipot
Avenue
the pond where a beautiful road and river view is the next to
claim our admiration. The high banks of the river are in many
parts clothed with climbing shrubs between the enormous
thickets of bamboo, which wave their plumes over river and
path.
Having now explored the south-west corner we return to
the oval group of palms near the entrance, and entering the
Main Central Drive illustrated by plate 115 we find ourselves at
once in a grove of exquisite beauty, its charming features being
due to the careful planting of the shrubs and trees, which form
a bank of ornamental and flowering plants rising gradually
from the edge to the tall trees which constitute the background
and overhanging canopy. The first turn on the left is Monu-
ment Road, where we shall find the famous kauri pine of New
Zealand, the curious candle tree with its pendulous fruits
which resemble so many candles hanging by their wicks from
the branches; and the most interesting double coconut palm
(Lodoicea sechellamm).
The Great Lawn will be noticed from the Monument Road,
along the edge of which are fine trees, too numerous to mention
here in detail.
We return to the Main Central Drive, cross over it, and
stroll down the Liana Drive, where we shall see the Ceylon
satinwood tree (Chloroxylon swietenia), and an abundance of
lianas hanging in festoons. These climbing- palms provide
the cane used in furniture-making and matting. They grow to
enormous lengths, sometimes hundreds of feet.
Our next step is to make for a scene which to many is the
most fascinating and longest remembered of all in the gardens
— the Fernery. This, as our map will show, is to the right a
little farther along the Main Central Drive, and is provided
with a network of paths about which the visitor will wander
in a maze of delight. Beneath the shade of lofty trees rivulets
flow between banks carpeted with ferns of infinite variety, some
so minute as to be hardly distinguishable from delicate moss,
others robust and tree-like, and some even bearing fine tufts
of feathery leaves as large as stately palms. Beautiful parasites
rover the trunks of the protecting trees. It is always a
veritable fairy scene.
Near the Fernery is the Flower Garden (Plate 117). At the
south end will be found a circular tank containing many inter-
esting aquatic plants, including the plants from which Panama
hats are made (Carludovica palmata), water poppies, the
sacred lotus, Egyptian papyrus, the water hyacinth and others.
Near the tank arc two fine rubber trees of the same species as
the grove near the entrance (Ficus clastica). If we pass
beneath the archway formed by the peculiar snake-like climber
{Bnuhinia cwguinu), which we shall not fail to notice near the
tank, the path will lead us to a shady walk amidst all manner
of spice trees, especially nutmegs, cinnamon, allspice and
cloves.
In the Flower Garden there are shade houses for orchids
and other shade-loving plants. To the north-east of the Flower
Garden, as may be easily seen in our map, is the Palmyra
Avenue (Borassus flabelliformis). Beyond the Palmyra Avenue
isthe Rose Garden, which should not be missed; and to the
114. THE LAKE: PERADENIYA GARDENS.
MAIN CENTRAL DRIVE. BAMBOO CLUMP :

WESTERN DRIVE.
117. THE FLOWER GARDEN.
i'iNG FOXES N FLOWER.

right of the avenue is a stretch of land devoted to tropical Peradeniya

Qardens
vegetables, including gourds, yams, sweet potatoes, tapioca,
arrowroot, pineapples and man)' others.
In the Bat Drive may generally be seen hundreds of so- Flying faxes
called flying foxes hanging head downward like legs of mutton
from the topmost branches of lofty trees. These curious bird-
beasts (Pteropus edwardsii) are fruit eaters, and particularly
fond of the seeds of the banyan tree (Ficus Indica). By day
they sleep suspended as seen in our picture, and at night
unhook their claws, and spreading their heavy wings, they fly
around the trees in large numbers, making no little noise in
their foraging exercises.
A drive around the gardens by the river side is especially
pleasant and affords many lovely views. At the north end
there is a portion of ground allotted to nature herself, where
in the jungle self-sown plants compete for the mastery in earth
and air.
The Museum situated near the Great Circle commands The .Museum
beautiful views and is full of objects of great interest. Here
will be found specimens of the many valuable timbers of Ceylon.
Entymology is represented, and the specimens include the Entomology
greatest wonders of the insect world, many of them so closely
allied to the vegetable kingdom that only on close examination
can the question be determined as to whether we are looking
at an object having a sentient being, or a mere bundle of leaves
or sticks.
Volumes might be written about these Roval Botanic
Gardens at Peradeniya ;but it is beyond the scope of the
present work to give more than a general idea of them. Thev
contain the most lavish display of tropical flora that has ever
been brought together, and the practical benefit of such an
establishment, with its large staff of accomplished experts, will
be manifest to every visitor.
—
Kaxdy (74m. 36c.). By the most experienced travellers Kandy
Kandy is usually awarded the high distinction of being the 1602 y;,/
most picturesque spot of the British Empire. The formation Formation
'
of the town itself may be described as a basin in the hills, the 0J tke ' 07v
'1
bottom being occupied in one part by native quarters, temples

and pansalas, and the rest by a picturesque lake, around which
many miles of carriage drives, bridle roads and walks, at
various elevations line the hill-sides, which are studded with
pretty bungalows. A reference to our illustrations will give
some idea of the way in which this beautiful little town clusters
around the lake, amid all the wealth of foliage peculiar both
to mountain and plain, which here meet and intermingle.
Kandy is incomparably beautiful; but let it be at once Scenery
understood that in thus describing it we are not limiting the
epithet to the town and its immediate surroundings. It is
ioo THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Kandy rather the Kandyan country as a whole that is thus distin-
guished, and this must be seen from the hill-tops which com-
mand the far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls
over rocky channels and through scenes of almost majestic
beauty from the Hunasgcria peak from Mattanapatana from
; ; ;
Lady Horton's Walk and other steep acclivities that encircle

the town itself. Travellers too frequently, either from want
of time or lack of energy, obtain but a faint idea of the varied
beauty of the Kandyan district.
Kandyan Our interest ill the Kandy of to-day will be strengthened by
history
some knowledge of the previous records of the Kandyans and
their little city. It has no very ancient history. It was for
the first time adopted as the capital in the year 1592 by Wimala
Dharma, the one hundred and sixty-fourth monarch who had
reigned in Ceylon since the year B.C. 543, the earliest period
of which any events are recorded. For more than a thousand
years Anuradhapura was the capital, and the residence of the
kings, till in a.d. 729 this once mighty city, the stupendous
ruins of which we shall describe later, was forsaken, and hence-
forth for some five hundred years Polonnaruwa became the
capital. With the downfall of Polonnaruwa, consequent upon
Malabar invasion, the prestige of the Sinhalese monarchy
dwindled. From the year 1235 various places were selected for
the capital, including Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, Gampola,
Cotta and Sitawaka, until the final adoption of Kandy, which
continued to be a place of royal residence until the reign of
the last monarch, Sri Wikrama Rajah Sinha, 1798-1815.
From the time of the first contact with Europeans, which
took place in the early part of the sixteenth century, Kandy
was for three hundred years the chosen ground where the
Sinhalese made their stand against the aggressions of European
stmagics intruders. The Portuguese first carried on a desultory struggle
with the
I'ortjte/rcs
with the Kandyans for one hundred and fifty years, during
which time they repeatedly gained possession of, and in great
part destroyed, the city, but never succeeded in holding it to
their own advantage, or for any considerable length of time.
With the arrival of the Dutch in the middle of the seven-
teenth century a policy which involved less fighting was
adopted, but the attitude of proud defiance on the part of the
mountaineers was not one whit changed in consequence. From
the very beginning the Dutch recognised the futility of trying
to gain and hold possession of the Kandyan kingdom.
At rival of It remained for the British to accomplish the task nor was
;
the British Jt by anv means an easy one for them. For twenty years after
their first arrival in the year 1795, Kandy remained unsubdued.
At length Kandy was in possession of the British. The King
was captured at Medamahanuwara, deposed and deported to
the fortress of Vellore in India, and at a convention of the
MAP OF THE TOWN OF KANDY.
Scale of Yards.
chiefs held in the great Audience Hall of the palace his Kandy
dominions were transferred to the Crown.
British
Good government speedily brought about contentment and hO^t °J
the rapid advancement of civilisation. And recrudescence of the roads
wars, which had lasted lor three hundred years, was guarded
against by the construction of good military roads. It seems
to us somewhat strange that no attempt was ever made by the
Portuguese or Dutch during their three centuries of warfare
with the Kandyans to compass their end by means ol roads.
Roman history had afforded many notable examples of this
mode of conquest from which they might have profited. The
new roads of the British soon broke down the exclusive habits
of the inland population, and the march of progress has been
continued without interruption to this day.
Freedom and the benefits that follow in its train have now Peace and
c'"•"'"
become familiar to the Kandvan mind, and peace, prosperity
and contentment are now enjoyed by a people for centuries
accustomed to serfdom, poverty and the excesses of unscru-
pulous tyrants.
Before we proceed to describe Kandy as it will be found by Hotel accom-
the traveller to-day it may be useful to remark that during "Kandy"'
the months of October to April it is always advisable for in-
tending visitors to book hotel rooms in advance, ft frequently
happens that several large steamships arrive at Colombo
together, and a rush for Kandy is made by a large number of
their passengers, who fill the hotels to their utmost capacity.
It is safer therefore to telegraph for accommodation, unless it
has been ascertained in Colombo that this course is unneces-
sary. The local hostelries comprise the Queen's Hotel, which
is a large and well-equipped institution, in a most convenient
situation; the Florence Hotel, quiet, comfortable and home-

like in picturesque grounds upon the lake road the Firs ;
Hotel, and other smaller hotels and boarding houses.

The population of Kandv is about 25,000, of whom only Population
about one hundred are English. The form of local govern- andana
ment is a municipal council of which the Government Agent is
the chairman, and the area embraced by the municipality is
about eleven square miles. The streets as well as the hotels
and the principal bungalows are lighted by electricity.
The exploration of the interesting features of the town may
be easily and pleasantly done on foot, with the occasional use
of a jinrickshaw. This useful little man carriage is obtain-
able as easily as in Colombo, and the 'rickshaw cooly is under
similar municipal regulations. He can be engaged bv the
hour for a trifling sum. The jinrickshaw is especially useful
if taken out on little expeditions and left bv the roadside
during the exploration of places that are accessible only by
pathways. Horse carriages can be obtained at the hotels.
Kandy As we ascend the steep acclivities the beauty of the land-
7 -
laiii i scape
scape approaches the sublime; we gaze across far-reaching
valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over channels strewn
with massive rocks, and through scenes of almost majestic
beauty we see the Hunasgeria peak towering above vast
;
stretches of vivid greenery where cacao groves are interspersed

with masses of lofty palms, with here and there patches of the
—
most lovely colour of all vegetation the emerald hue of half-
ripe paddythe grandeur of the Matale hills and the whole sur-
;
rounding country which, when viewed from the heights that

embrace the town, is a panorama of surpassing loveliness.
Not Kandy is the surprising
the least charming feature of
mildness of the climate. height above the sea is scarcelv
Its
two thousand feet, and its distance from the equator is but
six degrees yet a blanket at night is welcome and comfortable
; ;
whereas in Colombo it is never required. The days are hot

and somewhat glaring, owing to the lack of that red tint in
the roads which is so comforting in Colombo but the refresh- ;
ing early mornings and evenings admit of a goodly amount of

exercise.
Local The cosmopolitan character of the visitors will be at once
attractions
apparent for not a week passes without the arrival of scores
;
of fresh tourists from every part of the world. They come here
to see the home of the later Sinhalese kings the famous and ;
beautiful mountain-stronghold that was the last part of Ceylon

to fall into the hands of the foreigner the Dalada Maligawa,
;
or Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha the quaint manners ;
and customs of a people whose ancient dynasty endured for

twenty-four centuries the interesting temples and religious
;
ceremonies of the Buddhist cult the perfection of tropical

;
botany and agriculture and the most beautiful walks and

;
drives in the tropics.

Two roads encircle the lake — the lower at the water's edge
and the upper at a high elevation on the hill-sides. We
choose
the latter, and no sooner have we ascended to a moderate
height, than a series of beautiful landscapes is presented to us
through openings in the shrubs and trees which border the
road. As we wind about the varied curves, the ever-changing
aspect of the town and surrounding country presents a con-
stant difference of outline and colour which is most enchanting.
Lady _
By far the most interesting walk or drive in Kandy is that
Morton
Walk known as Lady Horton's, from which a distant view of the
road just described can be obtained. Here we take our stand
for a few moments and gaze across the lake at the tea estates
upon the opposing slopes. There we notice a rugged cliff
rising to the height of 4,119 feet. This is the highest point of
the Kandy tea-growing district known as Hantanne.
The uncultivated hill on the left of Hantanne is a point of Kandy

vantage from which magnificent stretches of country may be Hantanne
seen. It is commonly known as " Mutton Button," a corrup-
tion of its correct name " Mattanapatana. " The ascent of this
hill, which is about 3,200 feet high, is a somewhat arduous
task, and occupies from two to three hours but our exertions
;
are well rewarded by the splendid views which it commands.

In winding course we continue to ascend until, at the north- Dumiara
eastern point, the valley of Dumbara bursts into view. In
spite of the clearings made for cultivation, it is still beautifully
wooded. The lovely jungle is, however, fast giving way to
the less beautiful but more remunerative tea and coco planta-
tions. This district is about 12,000 acres in extent, about
7,000 of which are now under cultivation. The elevation,
which is from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea-level, is found to be
most suitable for the cultivation of a large variety of products,
especially when, as is the case with Dumbara, the rainfall is
moderate and well distributed, being about sixty inches in the
year. We see, therefore, in Dumbara, fields of cacao or
chocolate trees with large rubber trees planted amongst them
for shade. Some estates consist of fields of pepper, areca nuts,
coconuts, cacao and coffee, while here and there are fields of
tea bushes interspersed with coconuts. Vanilla and carda-
moms are also represented. The district is, however, chiefly
noted for its cacao or chocolate, of which it has upwards of
five thousand acres.
Beyond the Dumbara valley we notice in the far distance
the outline of a noble mountain which is known as the Knuckles.
The top of this mountain is shaped by four distinct peaks
resembling the knuckles of the hand, from which it derives its
name. It is an important district under cultivation for tea,
cinchona, cardamoms, and other products.
We have mentioned Lady Horton's Walk before describing
the town itself, because the traveller is recommended to take
the earliest opportunity of seeing the panorama of the Kan-
dyan country spread out before him from these heights. The
entrance to the walk will be found in King Street near the
gates of the King's Pavilion. The length of the walk is about
three miles.
One of the chief objects of interest to all travellers, and The Temfie
generally the first visited, is the Dalada Maligawa or Temple of the Tooth
of the Tooth.
The Temple and the Pattirippuwa, which is the name of
the octagonal building on the right of the main entrance, are
enclosed by a very ornamental stone wall and a moat. The
Temple itself is concealed by the other buildings within the
enclosure. Upon entering we pass through a small quadrangle
121. THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH.
122. KANDYAN CHIEFS.

and turn up a flight of stone steps to the Temple. Kandy

to the right
The most noticeable features are grotesque carvings, highly-
coloured frescoes, representing torments in store lor various
-
classes of sinners, and images of Buddha. A most ear-splitting-

noise is kept up by tom-tom beating and the playing of various
native instruments. On either side are flower-sellers, and the
atmosphere is heavy with the perfume of lovely white blossoms.
Each worshipper in the Temple brings an offering of some
fragrant ilower. The beautiful Plumiera, with its pure creamy
petals and yellow heart, is the most popular sacrificial blossom,
and this, together with jasmine and oleander, is everywhere
strewn by the devout Sinhalese. If our visit happens to be
made on a day of high festival when the adored relic is to be
exposed, the scene will be enlivened by the presence of a large
number of yellow-robed priests, gaily-caparisoned elephants,
which are kept by the chiefs for ceremonial purposes, and the
chiefs themselves, who appear in their rich white and gold
dresses and jewel-bedig'ht hats. They are naturally handsome
men, and when attired in full court dress, they look very im-
posing. To begin with, they contrive to wind about their
persons some hundred and fifty yards of fine silk or muslin,
embroidered in gold. This drapery, tapered finely down to the
ankles, ends in neat little frills. Round the waist is fastened
a yelvet gold-embroidered belt. Over a shirt, fastened with
magnificent jewelled studs, they wear a jacket with very full
sleeves, fastened tight above the elbow, and made of brocaded
silks of brightest hue. Their hats are of very curious shape,
even more lavishly embroidered than the jackets, and studded
with jewels. Crowds of reverent worshippers of both sexes,
apparelled in costumes of brilliant colours and great variety,
assemble in the spacious precincts.
We notice a narrow doorway with two pairs of elephants'
tusks on either side, and some very curious metal work on
the door itself; this leads to a steep narrow staircase, at the
end of which is a door most elaborately inlaid with silver and
ivory; this is the entrance to the little sanctuary which con-
tains the jealously-guarded sacred tooth, the palladium of
Ceylon, and an object of unbounded reverence to four hundred
millions people.
of Within this chamber, in dim religious
light, a solid silver table, behind which the huge silver-gilt
is
Dagoba, or bell-shaped shrine, with six inner shrines protecting

the tooth, is usually visible through thick metal bars. But on
great occasions the nest of priceless shrines is brought forward,
and the tooth is displayed, upheld by a twist of golden wire,
from the heart of the large golden lotus blossom. The shrines
are all of pure gold, ornamented with magnificent rubies,
pearls, emeralds, and catseyes, and the last two are quite
Kandy covered with rubies. Besides these treasures, there arc here
many priceless offerings and gifts of kings, including an image
of Buddha carved out of one great emerald, about three inches
long by two deep.
The Oriental
Library
Weare glad soon to retreat from this small chamber, so
hot, and filled with almost overpowering perfume of the
Plumiera blossoms, and to visit the Oriental Library in the
Octagon. In the balcony we pause awhile and look around
upon the motley crowd below. The chief priest with great
courtesy now shows us a very rare and valuable collection of
manuscripts of great antiquity. Most of them are in Pali and
Sanskrit characters, not written but pricked with a stylus on
narrow strips of palm leaf about three inches wide and sixteen
or twenty inches long. These strips form the leaves of the
books, and are strung together between two boards which form
the covers. Many of the covers are elaborately decorated with
embossed metal, and some are even set with jewels. Besides
the sacred and historical writings, there are works on astro-
nomy, mathematics and other subjects.
The The Audience Hall is ingrounds adjoining those of the
A udienc
Hall Temple of the Tooth. It is an historic building, and should be
visited alike for its association with the ceremonial of the
Kandyan kings and for the sake of its architecture. In the
terrible times that preceded the British occupation it is to be
feared that it was too often a court of tyranny and injustice ;
but it now serves as the forum presided over by the District

Judge of Kandy.
The Behind the Audience Hall is the Kandy Kachcheri, or
Kachcht
offices of the Government Agent of the province, an extensive
and handsome building, but, alas having no feature of any
!
kind that harmonises with its surroundings.

In the same locality is an old building, said to have been
a portion of the palace of the queens in the days of the
monarchy, but now used as a museum for treasures of Kan-
dyan art and craftsmanship it is, moreover, the home of the
;
Kandyan Art Association, a society formed to encourage the

preservation of the best traditions of Sinhalese art, which,
previous to the introduction of Western influence, possessed
a character that was at once meritorious and distinctive. The
native cunning of the low-country craftsman may be said to
have diminished to a greater extent than that of the Kandyan,
who, owing to his being so completely shut out from the rest of
the world down to the nineteenth century, was limited to the
resources of his own immediate locality and to the craftsman-
ship that had descended from father to son for many genera-
tions. The result of this isolation is seen in some special
peculiarity that characterises all the ancient handiwork that
124. CRAFTSMEN OF THE KANDYAN ART ASSOCIATION.
125. BUDDHIST ALTAR AT ASGIRIYA TEMPLE KANDY.

THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY m
textile Kandy
may be met with, whether in architecture, painting,
work, implements of ordinary use, or articles ol personal
Skill developed among social conditions ol
service
adornment.
tenure. Under this tenure the craftsman held lands that «%%~f
art
sufficed to provide him with food, and prosecuted his
according to the laws of his caste, for its own sake and not for
monev. His personal needs were so modest and few that his
thoughts and his attention were never distracted by anxiety
for the morrow. The main principles of his art came down
as the legacy of a long line of ancestors who had been engaged
in its mysteries, and "he applied his skill, both hereditary
and
acquired, to the needs and the fancies of his patrons, and, like
his
the masters of the Middle Ages, found in every detail of
work such pleasure and delight that even the meanest objects
were transfigured into things of beauty. The traveller may
see the truth of this in every antique survival of earlier times.
But the Kandyan craftsman is even now an artist, and although
he is no longer uninfluenced by the foreigner, the instinct to
follow the traditional lines is the strongest element in him.
Part of the old Queen's Palace adjoining the Museum is
ffif™'™//
given up to workshops where the traveller may sec articles Association
of silver and brass-work in process of manufacture, may even
select a design for any article he fancies and sec it in its
stages of fabrication if he has time to pa}- an occasional visit.
Our illustration(Plate 124) depicts some of the Kandyan art

workers following their calling in the premises of the museum.
Their modest and simple methods will surprise and interest us.
Seated upon the ground and surrounded by the needful appli-
ances, the roughly constructed blow-pipe, the earthenware
chattie containing a small charcoal fire and the box of self-made
tools, thev fashion the most delicate work. Many a treasure
representing the inherited artistic temperament of the Kan-
dvan craftsman has been secured by the traveller from the
institution in recent vears, and we recommend the collector to
avail himself of the present opportunity, as no man can say
how long the features which distinguish the inherited genius of
the Kandyan artist may hold their own against the mechanical
influences that have alreadv corrupted Western handicrafts.
In the vicinity of the buildings referred to above is the T/uoia
/laacl
old palace of the Kandyan kings, or at any rate a considerable
portion of it, now occupied bv the Government Agent of the
Central Province as a private residence.
Opposite the Old Palace is a walled enclosure of temple
buildings containing the Xata Dewale, a dagaba, a bo tree
provided with a bodhi-malmva or platform with an altar for
offerings, and several halls for educational purposes. The
principal entrance to this sacred enclosure provides the artist
ii2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Kandy with an excellent subject. Opposite this is the JMaha or Vishnu
r/u King's Dewale. This temple is on the borders of the King's Pavilion
grounds, which are entered from King Street. The King's
Pavilion is the most charming of the residences of the Governor
of the Colony, and there is nothing prettier in Kandy than the
garden in which it stands. When his Excellency is not in
residence the public are admitted to the grounds.
Noble trees and ornamental plants abound everywhere and
wild nature is still found compatible with effective artificial
arrangement. Fine specimens of the Traveller's Tree are very
noticeable here. This tree is so called from the useful property
possessed by the leaves of sending forth a copious supply of
water, when pierced at the part where they burst forth from
the stem. Nor are the trees and shrubs the only features of
interest in this delightful garden ; the creatures that appear
everywhere lend their aid to charm the naturalist : geckoes,
bloodsuckers, chameleons, lovely bright green lizards, about a
foot in length, which, if interfered with, turn quite yellow in
body, while the head becomes bright red glorious large butter-
;
flies, with most lustrous wings; blue, green, and scarlet

dragon-flies of immense size; and gay birds, giving life and
colour to the scene. Millepedes are amongst the creatures
constantly crawling about; they are about a foot long, as thick
as one's thumb, of a very glossy jet black colour, and possessed
of a large number of bright yellow legs. The strangest insects,
too, are seen amongst the shrubs, so near akin to plant life that
it is impossible to believe them to be alive until they are seen
to move.
Church of Opposite the entrance to the King's Pavilion is the English
St. Paul Church of St. Paul, which was built about the middle of the
nineteenth century. There are some features of interest in
the interior, the woodwork particularly testifying to the skill
of the Sinhalese in carving. At the west end there is a monu-
ment to officers of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment who served in
the Crimean War, and in the south transept there is a window
erected by the Cevlon Mounted Infantry in memory of their
comrades who fell in South Africa.
Next to St. Paul's Church, upon turning the corner which
leads to the Queen's Hotel, is the Police Court, which may
afford some interest to the visitor who has never before wit-
nessed the proceedings in an Eastern court of justice. Near
the entrance will be noticed a fountain erected by the planters
of Cevlon to commemorate the visit of his Majesty King
Edward VII. in 1875.
... ,
Victoria
. The Victoria Esplanade, with its charming
1 ' o and useful lawn
Esplanade that stretches from the Queen s Hotel to the Temple, is the
rendezvous of the public on all occasions of festivity. It is
adorned on one side by a picturesque wall after the character
126-129. KANDYAN SCENERY AT THE RESERVOIR,
Kandy of that which surrounds the Temple, and on the other by the
handsome wall of the grounds known as the Temple En-
closure. On the lawn will be noticed a monument to the
members of the Ceylon Planters' Rifle Corps who fell in the
South African War; and another commemorating Sir Henry
Ward, one of Ceylon's ablest Governors.
For a short walk or drive few places provide a more
interesting and beautiful road than that which encircles the
Kandy Lake. The formation of this exceedingly ornamental
piece of water is attributed to Wickrama Rajasinha, the last
of the Kandyan kings. Some of its greatest aesthetic attrac-
tions over and above its lovely situation are however due to
the interest taken in the improvements of Kandy by many of
the Governors and Government Agents who have lived there
from time to time. Thus Sir William Gregory added the
ornamental wall upon the bund. The upper road affords the
best views, amongst which is that depicted by our photo-
Wace Park graph (Plate 120), taken from Wace Park, a small ledge on the
hill-side tastefully laid out at the suggestion of the late Mr.
Wace when he was resident as Government Agent. No visitor
should fail to take a stroll to this spot, about five minutes' walk
from the Queen's Hotel; and those who want specially pretty
subjects for the camera should obtain a pass from the Secretary
of the Municipal Council, or from the Queen's Hotel, to be
admitted to the grounds which enclose the Reservoir of the
Municipal Water Supply.
This reservoir is reached by the road which passes at the
-rx,:r:
back of Wace Park, the distance being half a mile. The
lovelv shaded walks around the reservoir, with constant pretty-
openings disclosing vistas across the glistening waters, pre-
sent an opportunity to the enthusiastic amateur photographer
that should not be missed. Some proof of this may be
gathered from plates 126 to 129.
Gregory The Gregory Road, which is the upper of the two lake
Road
roads, provides many beautiful views, and is most convenient
for a short walk or drive in the early morning when the
mountain air is keen and invigorating. Indeed, the first stroll
along this road is one of very slow progress, and as a rule
the fresh comer will not go far the first time, but return again
and again at his leisure.
Thestreets of Kandy will interest the visitor only in so
far as they afford a glimpse of native town life and occupation
in the bazaars ; this is, however, always amusing to the
visitor who is a stranger to Eastern customs. In Kandy it
is muchpleasanter to visit the bazaars than in Colombo, owing
to the cooler atmosphere and the wider and cleaner streets
indeed one may walk through them in comfort. Trincomalee
Street and Colombo Street should at any rate be visited. Near
the bottom of King Street may be seen the only remnant of Kandy
a Kandyan chief's walawwa or residence that has survived
from the time of the Kandyan kings.
Ward Street is the chief thoroughfare of Kandy and pos-
sesses the Europeanstores, banks, the Queen's Hotel, the
Kandy Club and the Victoria Commemoration buildings which
are occupied as the headquarters of the Planters' Association
of Ceylon. This edifice was erected by the Planters of Ceylon
as their memorial of the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria.
Turning to the left at the bottom of Ward Street the road
becomes very picturesque, and on the way to the railway
station the market is seen fronted by a handsome garden of
palms, the most prominent of which is the talipot. Upon near-
ing the railway station an extensive building will be noticed on
the right, amidst flowering shrubs and noble trees the Post —
Office. This part of Kandy is known as the Vale of Bogambra,
the scene of many a tragedy in the time of the Kandyan
monarchy, including the tyrannous and ghastly execution of the
Ehclapola family described in most works on Ceylon.
ROAD SCENE THE BOTTOM OF WARD STREET.

CHAPTER VI
THE MATALE LINE

In the railway system the Matale line begins at Peradeniya
Junction, Kandy being served by it. The distances of the
stations given in the following itinerary are therefore reckoned
from Peradeniya Junction.
Mahaiyawa —
Mahaiyawa (4m. 71c). This station as will be seen from
our map is practically in Kandy itself, being only one mile
from Kandy station.
Katugastota —
Katugastota (7m. 25c). Katugastota (three and a half
1,534 a" 1
miles north of Kandy) is a picturesque and flourishing suburb

of Kandy situated on the Mahaweliganga at the point where
the Matale carriage road crosses it by an iron bridge. It is
much frequented by visitors who have no time to make more
distant excursions. One of the attractions consists of a con-
siderable stud of elephants belonging to the Kandyan chief
Dunuwilla whose walawwa is on the bank of the river. They
frequently engage in river sports under the direction of their
keepers to the amusement and delight of passengers who pay a
flying visit to the mountain capital.
Wattegama —
Wattegama (11m. 33c.). Wattegama is famous for its
l,62o/«* flourishing cacao and tea estates which contribute considerable
freight to the railway. The village is provided with a rest-
house containing four bedrooms and it is generally possible to
;
hire a carriage and pair of horses at the rate of one rupee per
mile. Hackeries are always available.
116
Near the station a road connects Wattegama with the

Panwila road. It is the station for the districts of Panwila,
Hunasgiriya, Madulkele, Kelebokka and Knuckles.
—
Ukuwella (17m. 52c). Ukuwella is a small village about Ukuwella
three miles to the south of Matale. The railway station that
takes its name from the village serves a large number of
important estates.
—
Matale (21m. 9c). Matale the terminus of this branch Matale
is
of the broad gauge railway. is a place of considerable

It
importance as the chief town of a large planting district con-
taining nearly a thousand square miles, the most northerly
in which Europeans have opened up estates it is under an
;
Assistant Government Agent, and is divided into three sub-

divisions, Mdtale South, East and North, each under a Rate-
mahatmaya.
Upon arrival we find a comfortable rest-house fitted with
every convenience for the traveller and well provisioned. The
town contains one of the largest purely native bazaars in
Ceylon, extending for almost a mile in one long street shaded
by a fine avenue of rain trees, so called from the circumstance
that at night the leaves fold into a kind of sac in which the
moisture condenses and at sunrise when the leaves open is dis-
charged in quite a shower. Here are to be seen the necessaries
and luxuries for the supply of the native community throughout
the large and important planting district of which Mdtale is
the centre. All the shops are after the fashion of open stalls,
and the traders, their goods and transactions, from one end
of the street to the other, are open to the gaze of passers-by.
The barber, the tinker, the merchant of gay-coloured cloths,
and the curry-stuff vendor, are all doing a roaring trade.
The mellifluous tones of Ramasamy's voice are unceasing, and
the stranger will not fail to be struck with surprise at the
inordinate amount of talking required by every trifling bar-
gain.
The scenery has the same characteristics as the Kandyan Scenery of
district, and especially beautiful in its wealth and variety Mdtale
is
of tropical foliage. The hills rise to an altitude of five
thousand feet, and are wooded to the summits, save where
clearings have been made for the cultivation of coffee,
cacao, and tea; they exhibit fine specimens of some of the
most remarkable trees in Ceylon, many iron-
including
wood trees, with crimson-tipped foliage and delicate flowers.
The northern division of Matale reaches to Nalanda, on
the main road to the famous rock temples of Dambulla
so that the large number of visitors who now journey
to Dambulla pass through the heart of this district and see
the fine tea, cacao and rubber estates for which it is famous.
132. THE ALUWIHARE.
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY ng
Their total extent is about sixty thousand acres, of which
nearly half is cultivated. The elevation being from 1,200 to
4,000 feet, mixed planting is popular; and we find, in addition
to tea and cacao, cardamoms, coconuts, areca nuts, annatto,
kola, rubber, cinchona, vanilla, pepper, sapan, and sago. There
are thousands of acres of rich forest which contains much
ebony, satinwood, halmilla, and palu.
Of scenery, and products Matale affords great
climate,
variety. has its lowlands, with their coconut, vanilla and
It
cacao groves, and the warm glow of tropical sunshine; hills
of moderate elevation, in some parts cultivated, in others wild
and forest-clad lofty mountains, with their cool and in-
;
vigorating atmosphere so inviting to Europeans and to the

;
north it stretches away in spurs which gradually decrease

amidst a vast wilderness of forest and scrub, the haunt of
the elephant, leopard, buffalo and bear. Big game is to be
found in proximity to estates, and is still more plentiful a
day's march to the north. Sambur, barking deer, and pig sport
afford good hunting, while the leopard, bear, and buffalo are
available as victims for the sportsman's gun. Few planting
districts can boast of sporting grounds at once so good and
so accessible.
But Matale has also its antiquarian interest, for here is AfowilmrS
situated the ancient rock temple Aluwihare, which claims our
attention both as an extremely picturesque spot and one to
which is attached considerable literary interest. We
proceed
for two miles past the town upon the Matale-Anuradhapura
road, then turn aside to the left following a jungle path till
we come upon a flight of stone steps which lead to what
appears to have been originally a cleft in the rock (Plate 132).
On the left side runs a verandah, a modern tiled erection, which
conceals the entrance to a cavern sacred as the scene of King
Walagambahu's convention of monks in the first century B.C.,
at which were transcribed the sayings of Buddha hitherto pre-
served only by tradition.
Prior to 1910 Matale was the starting point for the mail
coach service to Dambulla and Trincomalee, but in July of that
year a motor mail service, under the control of the railway, was
inaugurated from Anuradhapura (on the northern section of the
railway) to Trincomalee, and the mail coach service from Matale
to that place was discontinued.
The traveller, therefore, who wishes to visit the rock temples Dambulla
of Dambulla and the ancient rock fortress of Sigiri (a trip which
is strongly recommended) should either engage a motor car at
Kandy or a waggonette and pair of horses which can be hired
in Matale. The first stage of the journey reaches Nalanda
fourteen and a half miles from Matale. Here will be found a
120 THE CEYLOX GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Nalanda good rest-house, standing in picturesque grounds and em-
bowered in remarkably fine tamarind trees. It is neatly
furnished and comfortable, and will serve as a convenient
halting place for refreshment. Upon leaving Nalanda we shall
notice that habitations become less frequent and dense forest
Dambulla begins to take the place of cultivated lands. Dambulla is
reached at the twenty-ninth mile from Matale. The village
consists of a double row of mud huts, which do duty as native
shops, and extends for about two hundred yards at the foot of
a solitary mass of rock which rises from the plain to a height
of about five hundred feet and is about a mile in circumference.
Near the summit is a series of five caverns which in their
natural state were selected as hiding places by King
Walagambahu upon his being driven by the Tamils from his
throne at Anuridhapura in the first century B.C. After fifteen
years of exile he regained his throne, and in gratitude for the
protection they had afforded him, transformed them into
temples.
Rock temples These caverns are entered from a ledge near the summit
of a huge boulder of dark gneiss five hundred feet high and
two thousand in length. The ascent is made by a steep but
picturesque stairway cut in the natural rock. At the top of
this rock bursts into view a landscape that apart from the
interest of the temples would well repay a more toilsome
climb. Ranges of mountains stretch away over the Kandyan
province in the dim grey distance ;the rock of Sigiri rises
in solitary grandeur from the dense forest to the east and
;
beneath us lie the rice fields granted by the ancient kings as

the endowment of the temples.
sigiri At Dambulla there is a spacious and comfortable rest-
house where, if we are travelling by horse conveyance, we shall
find it convenient to put up for the night and equip ourselves
with information about Sigiri, whither we should proceed at
dawn. There is excellent accommodation for the traveller at
the small rest-house quite near the rock, but it is desirable
to notify the rest-house keeper beforehand of the intended
visit as there are only two bedrooms, and food supplies have
also to be arranged. For those travelling by motor car, it is
recommended that they should go straight on the same day to
Sigiri after visiting the Dambulla rock temples.
Kasyaf.a The historic interest which attaches to this lonely crag
centres in the story of the parricide King Kasyapa, who, after
depriving his father Dhatu Sen of his throne and life, sought
security by converting this rock into an impregnable fortress.
Although it has been said that Sigiri was a stronghold in
prehistoric times, we have no account of it earlier than the
fifth century, the time of Kasyapa, the particulars of whose
reign related in the Mahawansa are considered specially reliable
teagaafct
Sigiri as being written by the Buddhist monk Mahanamo, an eye
witness of the troublous times that he describes. It is, more-
over, the only contemporary account of Sigiri that has come

to light.
At daybreak, if in a horse conveyance, we drive six miles
to Inamalawa, where we branch off through the jungle by a
road which has recently been made quite practicable for car-
riages and motor cars. This road is very picturesque, and
the jungle gay with birds of brightest plumage and alive
with wild animals. Troops of monkeys are frequently seen
and jackals here and there put in an appearance.
At length after about six miles of this road we emerge
into the open and of a sudden Sigiri appears rising abruptly
from the plain. An artificial lake, formed under the south
side of the rock, helps to form a striking picture (Plate 133).
There are traces of massive stone walls enclosing about fifty
acres round the base of the rock and forming the first line
of fortification. Upon a nearer approach we observe that
terraces were formed on the slopes which lead to the per-
pendicular side of the rock ; they are faced with stone and
were doubtless constructed for purposes of defence. Here and
there huge boulders have been carved into foundations for
halls, and into luxurious baths (Plate 134).
We cannot here give all the interesting details of archi-
tectural remains that have been discovered by the explorations
of the Achaeological Commissioner of the Ceylon Government.
The traveller will find some astonishing remains laid bare by
recent excavation, and if he will take the trouble to ascend
to the top of the rock by the aid of the protective handrails
now provided he will see the remains of spacious apartments,
flights of stairs in quartz, a carved throne, courtyards,
passages and innumerable other signs of a remarkably
luxurious retreat.
A visit to Sigiri results in the very agreeable feeling that
we have seen one of the most fascinating and romantic spots
that the old-world scenes of any country can afford. The
warm red tones of its cliffs, the beautifully worked quartz stairs
of its ruined galleries and terraces, the picturesque lay of its
massive ruins, the grandeur of the forest which surrounds it,
and the waters of its lake, with the dark and mysterious
reflections amidst the lotus leaves that o'erspread the surface,
combine to form an impression that will never fade from the
memory.
A Circular A most enjoyable circular tour by motor car, occupying
Tour by four or five days, may be made from Kandy, embracing the
Motor Car
places above described and visiting in addition Polonnaruwa,
Kanthalai, Trincomalee, and Anuradhapura, returning to
Kandy via Dambulla and Matale. The first day should be given
to Sigiri, and for the first night Habarane rest-house on the

Trincomalee road, five miles beyond the turn to Sigiri, will be
found a convenient hostelry. Polonnaruwa is reached by a
minor road from Habarane, the distance being twenty-seven
miles. At the fourteenth mile we reach the lake of Minneria,
which is one of the most exquisite things in Ceylon. Killarney
and other well-known beautiful expanses of water and wood-
land may be mentioned in comparison, but at Minneria there
arc many additional charms, of which climate is not the least.
The islands and woodlands unexplored for many centuries
are so thoroughly things of nature. Then the creatures every-
where add to the romance ; the myriads of curious birds,
many of great size and magnificent plumage the crocodiles
;
lazily basking upon the banks, and the spotted deer often
darting across the open glades. Even the knowledge that the
elephant, the bear, and the leopard, though out of sight, are
present in large numbers, lends additional interest to a scene
which is beyond description.
The city of Polonnaruwa ranks high amongst the
archaeological wonders of the world. That the Sinhalese should
have been able to build and maintain a city of such dimensions,
wealth, beauty and power, is evidence of the high qualities of
the race in early times. It is obviously impossible to give an
adequate description of its interesting palaces, temples, shrines,
and monasteries within the limits of this small handbook, and
the visitor is therefore recommended to provide himself with
one of the following books: "The Ruined Cities of Ceylon,"
by Henry W. Cave; "Guide to the Ancient Capitals of
Ceylon," by John Still; " The Book of Ceylon," by Henry W.
Cave.
A day having been spent in exploring the ruins it will be
convenient to return to Habarane for the night, and on the
following morning to proceed to Kanthalai (28 miles). After
travelling through the dense forest, it is with a shock of
delight that the monotony is broken by the sudden appear-
ance of a beautiful lake stretching away for miles to dreamy
ranges of distant hills, whose beauties are reflected in its calm
waters. Such is Kanthalai, another of Ceylon's marvellous
ancient irrigation tanks. We shall gain some idea of the
artifice by which it was formed, as for more than a mile we
proceed upon the great causeway faced with enormous blocks
of granite that forms its southern boundary. Near the Trin-
comalee end is a comfortable rest-house for the accommodation
of large parties of sportsmen and travellers, for the fields
which are irrigated from the lake are unrivalled as snipe
grounds.
We —
have now only one more stage to Trincomalee twenty-
six miles of the same undulating forest road.
i2 4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Trincomaiee There are some five or six magnificent harbours in the
Tiu harbour world, and Trincomaiee is one of them. Situated on the north-
cast of the island, it faces the Bay of Bengal and overlooks the
whole eastern coast of India. The entrance, which faces
south-east, is guarded by two projecting headlands, approach-
ing to within about seven hundred yards of each other. When
it is borne in mind that the monsoons blow from the north-east
and south-west the importance of this feature is obvious. The

rocky headlands have a beautiful effect upon the landscape,
which is made up of a placid expanse of water dotted with
wooded islets that seem to float on its surface, rich tropical
forest covering the acclivities that border its coasts, and a
distant background of lofty mountains.
The form of the harbour is irregular, and the numerous
indents of its coast line supply many a charming feature.
Some of the islands are romantic in appearance as well as
association, and notably amongst them Sober Island, once the
favourite resort of the officers of the East Indies squadron.
Special points of interest to the traveller are Fort Frederick,
with its rocky headland known as Saami Rock, where weird
Hindu ceremonies are performed the pretty drive along the
;
eastern side of the harbour; and the magnificent banyan tree

in the grounds of Admiralty House. The European residents
of Trincomaiee, since its abandonment as a naval station, are
almost limited to the resident officials the native population
;
being about eleven thousand. The rest-house is capacious, and

good provisions are obtainable.
readily
From Trincomaiee there
is a direct road (50 miles) to
Anuradhapura, whither we now proceed, and which will be
found fully described on pages 172 to 202.
CHAPTER VII
PERADENIYA JUNCTION TO BANDARAWELA

We now resume the Main Line itinerary which we left at Main Line
Peradeniya Junction in order to visit Kandy and the places
situated on the Matale branch. The main line at Peradeniya
Junction turns abruptly to the south and passes through the
very heart of the greatest tea districts of this celebrated tea-
growing country. First we traverse a fertile and beautiful
valley where rice fields form a charming foreground to hills
that are clothed with palms in great variety and luxuriance.
At the eighth mile from Peradeniya Junction we reach the
town of Gampola, for a time the seat of Sinhalese power.
—
Gampola (78m. 25c). As the last of the native capitals of Gampola
Ceylon before the removal of the moribund dynasty to Cotta i,5J2/êt
in 1410, Gampola can claim to be a place of considerable
interest. The city was founded in the year 1347 by King
Bhuwaneka Bahu IV., who reigned there for nine years.
Remains of that period are still to be seen at the Niyangam-
paya wihare, about one mile from Gampola station and adjoin-
ing Mariawatte tea estate. This temple, which was built by
Bhuwaneka Bahu upwards of five centuries ago and restored
by the last king of Kandy in the year 1804, still contains some
of the original work, the stone carving of the basement being
a good example of the fourteenth century work. But Gampola
must have been a place of note in still earlier times for the
;
ancient Sinhalese chronicle Mahawansa records that King

Wijaya Bahu visited it in the eleventh century. King Wick-
rama Raja Sinha in the year 1804 granted a sannas or deed
engraved upon copper to this temple, bestowing lands upon it
and ending in the following terms, detailing the punishments
that will wait upon the sacrilegious thief
:
—
125
"~*-"*^
^^^k. I
" His Majesty has been pleased to grant the same as if Main Line
uttered by the mouth of the goddess Saraswati, and he made
the gift at a happy time, sitting in a golden throne in the form
An
of Sakkraya at the city of Senkanda Sailabidhana Siriward- interesting
hanapura, which abounds with all riches; and this sannas, in deed ofgift
accordance with the order and command of his Majesty, has
been granted on Monday, the second day of the increasing
moon of the month Medindina, in the year of Saka 1726, called
Raktaksa. He who shall cut, break or take even a blade of
grass or any wood or fruit or anything belonging to Buddha
shall be born as a pretaya, but anyone who shall make any
offerings shall enjoy felicity in the Divyalokas and enter into
Nirvana. He who shall take bv force anything that belongs
to Buddha, with intent to appropriate to himself or give it to
others, shall become a worm in ordure for a period of sixty
thousand years. "
It is curious that, notwithstanding the awful nature of the
penalty, in the year 1907 the golden image of Buddha, worth
^,2,000, was stolen from this wihdre. The golden image is
still missing, and the thief has escaped British justice, which
is a matter of very trifling moment in comparison with the
sixty thousand years of punishment that are in store for him.
The visitor to Gampola will find the local accommodation
good both at the railway station and the rest-house which is
quite near to it. Carriages, with single horse or a pair, can
be hired at moderate rates. Jinrickshaws are also procurable.
A large number of tea estates are served by the Gampola
station, from which upwards of six thousand tons of tea are
despatched annually. To the east of the railway stretch some
districts that were the first to be stripped of their virgin forest
by the European. To the west lies the picturesque district of Dolosbage
Dolosbage, which lends itself admirably to pictorial treatment
but with so many claiming attention some must of necessity
be left with merely passing reference. The old town of Gam-
pola is also the railway terminus for the beautiful districts
of Pussellawa and Ramboda, through which an excellent
macadamised road passes, and over the heights of Nuwara
Eliya, to descend again amongst the rolling patanas and deep
glens of the Uva country, which we shall see later. This road
scales the mountain slopes by zigzag cuttings, now on the
mountain side, now passing through narrow defiles, and
onwards upon the verge of deep abysses, beautiful everywhere,
in many parts enchanting, and in one, the pass above Ram-
boda, magnificent.
—
Ulapane (82m. 75c). Ulapane is a village among tea Ulapane
estates, with no special attractions for the visitor. The name 1,846/Af/
is said to be derived from a Sinhalese word, meaning "
the
Main Line scene of the impalement," from the circumstance that the
owner of the village in the reign of Raja Sinha I. was impaled
for high treason. There also a tradition that a man of this
is
village who first the remarkable work of irrigation
traced
known as the Raja Ela (the king's stream) which waters the
paddy fields of the district for twelve miles, after being
honoured by the king and rewarded for his skill, fell into
disgrace and was also impaled.
Nawalapitiya —
Nawalapitiya (87m. 29c). At Nawalapitiya, the up-
country headquarters of the railway, a powerful engine is
placed in the rear of the train to assist in conveying it up the
steep gradients that begin here and continue until we reach the
summit level of Pattipola at an elevation of 6,225 feet. Nawala-
pitiya is a busy little town of about 2,500 inhabitants. Its
native bazaars serve a large planting area where the Tamil
cooly from Southern India is chiefly employed. The general
characteristics of the place are therefore something like those
we have met with at Matale.
Instead of a rest-house the traveller will find here quite
close to the station a modest but comfortable hostelry called
the Central Hotel.
Amba°amum,i We are now about to pass through the tea estates of
Ambagamuwa, the wettest planting district in Ceylon, having
an annual rainfall of about 200 inches, or eight times that of
London. Weascend in snake-like windings, now along the
almost precipitous rock trimly cut like the scarp of a fortress,
now right through masses of solid gneiss, and out into the open
eminence again, the scene changing with every curve. At one
point we come upon a sight especially interesting, but which
will nevertheless elude all but the expectant traveller —
the
Hog's-back entrance and exit of the Hog's-back Tunnel. As we approach,
Tunnel
the mountain is cleft by a deep narrow ravine, which is in
reality a watercourse, down whose steeps rushes a torrent
towards the river in the valley below. Over this the train
passes, affording a grand spectacle when the water, in the
south-west monsoon, dashes with resistless force amongst the
boulders and broken crags of the chasm, above which the train
seems momentarily suspended. The vision lasts but a few
seconds, when the tunnel heightens the keen sense of wonder-
ment with its contrast of absolute darkness. In a few moments
more the scene seems to reappear as the mountain side is cleft
again, and an exactly similar ravine is bridged, followed by
the darkness of a second tunnel. After obtaining a view of
the Galboda Cliff on the left we arrive at Galboda station.
Qaiboda
-'^ l J'' ct
—
Galboda (94m. 38c). At Galboda attention may be drawn
to the picturesque station garden. It may here be mentioned
that the railway strongly encourages the cultivation of station
gardens, and substantial prizes arc annually awarded for the
best results in the various districts. Upon leaving Galboda Main Line
station we still ascend in ever-winding' course, and as we pass
through Blackwater and Weweltalawa estates a grand open
view is afforded extending over the low country right away to
the famous Kelani Valley. Even Colombo, one hundred miles
away, is said to be discernible from this point on a clear day.
—
Watawala (100m. 13c). Watawala station which serves Watawala
a large group of tea estates is now passed, and the Dickoya 3,259/"''
district with its thirty thousand acres of tea bushes next
appears, the railway running parallel to the road on the
opposite side of the valley and the Mahaweliganga flowing
between.
Rozelle (103m. —
63c.). Rozelle is another of the small Rozelle
stationswhich exist for the convenience of the tea estates that 3,74*/"'
surround them.
This railway journey into the tea districts is worth making Scenes on
for itsown sake but even the excitement of an occasional sus- rail-way
;
pension 'twixt earth and sky over a steep ravine, the wonderful
dissolving views of mountain, forest, and stream, and the rapid
changes of climate, do not exhaust all the points of interest on
this remarkable line. The European traveller will notice with
curious interest the gangs of coolies — men, women, and chil-
dren — some arriving from Southern India, each carrying the
sum of his worldly goods, some departing to return to their
coast or native land, others merely leaving one district for
another, but all enjoying the freedom of unrestrained con-
versation in their very limited vocabulary, the subject of wages
and food providing the chief topics, and those of paramount
concern. Other gangs are noticed engaged in their daily task
of plucking or pruning the hardy little tea bushes on the various
estates. Nor should we pass over the pretty feature of the
numerous bungalows, each situated upon some charming knoll
and surrounded by a veritable little paradise.
—
Hatton (108m. 16c). Hatton is the largest railway centre Hatton
for the tea industry, serving not onlv the Dickoya district but 4,141 feet
also the tea estates of Maskeliya and Bogawantalawa, which lie
farther to the south. It is of special interest to the tourist as
the nearest point of the railway to Adam's Peak, a mountain
of great historical interest, which has allured to its heights
millions of the human race, the ascent of which should be
accomplished by all travellers who are possessed of the neces-
sary energy and physique for the task. There is a first-class L ocal
hostelry at Hatton, the Adam's Peak Hotel, where the traveller accommodation
can spend the night and make his arrangements for the expe-
dition. Carriages can be obtained, and the manager of the
hotel makes all arrangements for the visitor. Many tourists
make their plans for arriving at the peak just before dawn,
doing the steep part of the climb by torchlight or by moonlight
J
Adam's if the occasion happens to be favourable but those who wish
;
Peak • •
to avoid travelling in the night can arrange to arrive at sunset,

taking up camping equipment for the night and sleeping on the
peak. The distance from Hatton as the crow flies is but twelve
miles, but the roads and paths by which we must travel extend
to twenty-two, fourteen of which we can drive and the remain-
ing eight being accomplished on foot. Only the last three
miles present anything of the nature of mountain climbing, and
they are easy compared to the ascent by the south-western
route from Ratnapura, which, owing to its supposed greater
merit, is the one commonlv chosen by pilgrims. The tourist,
however, usually proceeds from Hatton by the north-eastern
route. The drive takes us first through lower Dickoya to
Norwood bridge, which is reached at the sixth mile; we then
cross and turn sharply to the right, passing into the valley of
Maskeliya and reaching Laxapana at the fourteenth mile, where
we leave our carriage at the Laxapana Hotel and prepare for
the climb.
Sacred There is no object more familiar

to the inhabitants of Ceylon,
character
or cme t ] lat ma k C s
a deeper impression upon the multitudes who
'mountain visit her shores than the lofty cone which bears the name of
our first parent and it may be said without fear of contradic-
;
tion that among- all the mountains in the world invested by

tradition with superstitious veneration none has stirred the
emotions of so many of our fellow-subjects as Adam's Peak.
The origin of its sacred character, involved at once as it is in
the legendary history of several ancient religions, has been the
subject of considerable research and greater conjecture.
There is no doubt that the legends take their rise in the
mark on the summit resembling the impress of a gigantic
human foot. This the Buddhists devoutly worship as the
sacred footprint of Gautama, while the Hindoos equally claim
it as that of Siva, and the Mahommedans, borrowing their
history from the Jews, as that of Adam. Thus do the adherents
of three great religions, to the number of 800,000,000 of our
fellow-creatures, vie with one another in veneration of the
lonely Peak. As in pilgrim bands they ascend the mighty cone
their hearts are moved and they regard its rugged paths as
steps unto heaven. From all parts of Asia thousands annually
flock up the steep and rocky track, enduring privation and
hardship for the good of their souls. Some of the very old
people of both sexes are borne aloft upon the shoulders of their
stalwart sons, others struggle upwards unaided, until, fainting
by the way, they are considerately carried with all haste in
their swooning condition to the summit and forced into an
attitude of worship at the shrine to secure the full benefits of
their pilgrimage before death should supervene others never
;
Adam's Peak reach the top at all, but perish from cold and fatigue and there
;
have been many instances of pilgrims losing- their lives by

being blown over precipices or falling from giddiness induced
by a thoughtless retrospect when surmounting especially dan-
gerous cliffs.
The European traveller, although uninfluenced by any super-
stition, is nevertheless affected by the awe-inspiring prospect
that meets his gaze when he has reached the summit. There
are man}' mountains of greater height from whose lofty peaks
the eye can scan vast stretches of eternal snow, but none
can unfold a scene where Nature asserts herself with such
impressive effect as here.
No other mountain," wrote Sir Emerson Tennent, " pre-
sents the same unobstructed view over land and sea. Around it
to the north and east the traveller looks down on the zone of
lofty hills that encircle the Kandyan kingdom, whilst to the
westward the eye is carried far over undulated plains, threaded
by rivers like cords of silver, till in the purple distance the
glitter of the sunbeams on the sea marks the line of the Indian
"
Ocean.
Under peculiar atmospheric conditions that frequently
present themselves the curious phenomenon known as the
Shadow of Adam's Peak is observable at dawn from the summit
of the mountain. The first faint beams reveal the fleecy shroud
of mist covering the world below, and as the welling light
grows clearer up rises the mighty shadow. Like a distant
pyramid it stands for many seconds then nearer and nearer,
;
ever increasing in size and distinctness as the rays of light

broaden over the horizon, it advances towards us like a veil,
through which the distant mountain forests and plains are dis-
tinctly visible, till at length it seems to merge in its might}
parent, and instantly vanish.
Kotagaia —
Kotagala (mm. 25c). Soon after leaving Hatton the
4,065/irf railway line passes through the Poolbank tunnel, 614 yards
long. About the middle of the tunnel the gradient begins to
decline, until at Kotagala station we are seventy-six feet lower
than Hatton. After passing Kotagala the loveliness of the
scenery increases until it seems to reach its climax as the
remarkable beautv of the St. Clair Falls unfolds itself just
before we reach Talawakele. The falls appear on the left, and
some vigilance is required to obtain a good view owing to the
recent growth of trees. The passenger who alights at Tala-
wakele should not fail to visit these falls, which can be reached
by walking to the 19^2 mile post on the Nawalapitiya road.
Two miles farther on the same winding road, one of the most
beautiful landscapes in Cevlon is to be found, where, at an
abrupt corner of the road, another cataract, the Devon Falls,
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY L33
138. ST. CLAIR FALLS.
bursts upon the sight. No photograph can do it justice the ;
charm of the view is in the setting of the waterfall with its

steep and rugged background of rock, and the estates at
various elevations towering above it, while the more distant
ridges one by one recede till the farthermost is lost in rolling
vapours. There are here five miles of road that present some
exquisite landscapes seldom seen by the visitor, who is usually
pushing on with all speed to Nuwara Eliya.
—
Talawakele (115m. 69c). Talawakele is an important Taiawak<rfe
station of Dimbula, the largest of all the tea districts. The 3.932/"'
little town itself has a population of about 1,500, and includes
amongst its local manufactures the various kinds of machinery
used in the manufacture of tea and the preparation of rubber.
Some idea of its business may be gauged from the fact that
about twenty million pounds of tea are despatched annually
from Talawakele station alone. Local accommodation for Dhnhuia
travellers is good. The rest-house, five minutes' walk from
the station, has three bedrooms and stabling for three horses,
good food being procurable without previously ordering. The
divisions of Lindula and Agrapatana are served by mail coaches
in which passengers can travel, and private carriages may be
obtained at moderate rates of hire. The whole district is well
served with means of communication the railway runs right
;
through it, winding- about its mountain sides for twenty miles,
and reaching the elevation of five thousand feet ; while splendid
Main Line roads penetrate its various divisions. One of these, Agra-
Agraj>atana patana, is second to none for its perfect combination of all the
characteristics of climate and soil that have been found suitable
lor the production of the highest class of Ceylon tea. It has
indeed a perfect tea-climate ; and the formation of the hills
ensures immunity from damage by wind, which in many dis-
tricts is a danger that has to be provided against by the growth
of extensive belts of grevilleas and gums for shelter. I do not
say that none are necessary in Agrapatana, but fewer than in

more exposed country. The climate of Dimbula, especially in
the Lindula and Agrapatana divisions, is as near perfection as
need be desired. Its average shade temperature is about
65 Fahr. and it ma}' be said that the variation is from 55°
,
to 70 . The rainfall is about one hundred inches for the year,

and is fairly distributed. After giving warning by the gradual
increase in the density of the vapours, it descends in true
tropical fashion, but with long intervals of sunshine between
the storms.
To vis:t Agrapatana we leave the railway at Talawakele,
where a good road passes through Lindula for about five miles,
and thence for twelve miles through the Agra district.
Tim Agra Through the Agra district flows the Agra Oya, the longest
feeder of the Mahaweliganga (the Great Sandy River), whose
acquaintance we made
at Peradeniya. This tributary takes its
rise at Kirigalpotta, a mountain reaching an altitude of 7,732
feet, near the Horton Plains. As we wend our way round the
hillsides it is always present, meandering close at hand in the
valley beneath. In flood it is a roaring torrent, but after the
rains have subsided it becomes a picturesque and shallow river,
flowing amongst the thousands of massive boulders of granite
that have during long ages of time become detached from the
mountains and rolled into its bed.
As we drive through this district we get frequent glimpses
of this river and the tea estates which lie upon its banks. Here
we see a factory on some spot where the presence of the stream
is a valuable asset in providing power to supplement steam ;
there we notice a bungalow upon some site chosen for its beau-
tiful aspect and as we drive along the well-made metalled road
;
we notice that every acre, with the exception of some patanas,

or grass lands, from which the district derives its name, is well
covered with tea plants, looking unmistakably healthy, and
evidencing the perfect " tea-climate " to which we have made
reference.
Tea For a short description of the tea industry we can choose no
planting
more suitable spot than this, or one more convenient to the
traveller who desires to use this book for the purpose of glean-
ing information about the various districts through which he
is passing- by rail. We will first take in its order the daily

round of the planter's life. To him the adage " Early to bed
and early to rise " is something more than a copy-book head-
line. He rises at early dawn, which in this country varies only
some minutes throughout the year, and at 6 a.m. attends the
muster of all the coolies employed on the estate. These com-
prise men, women, and children of about eleven years and
upwards, who assemble in gangs near the factory or other con-
venient spot. Each gang is in charge of a cangany or task- The a
master, whosuperintends the work of the labourers, chastises
them for their shortcomings, and looks after their finances,
not alwavs disinterestedly. The cangany plays an important
part not only in the management of the labourers, but also in
their supply, and we shall have more to say about him later.
The conductor, too, is another official who puts in an appear-
ance and holds an even more important position. He is the
superintendent's right-hand man in the fields; he understands
the art of cultivation and looks after the various gangs. The
tea-maker who superintends the work inside the factory is also
there for work in every department begins with the break of
;
day. All appear as if by magic at the blast of a horn or the

sound of a tom-tom. The superintendent arrives on the scene,
counts them, and assigns them in gangs to various work; some
to plucking, others to pruning, weeding-, and clearing surface
drains. He then recounts them and enters the number assigned
to each work, in order that he may be able to check them
at the end of the day. Early tea, that simple term used in
Ceylon to denote the Indian chota hazari or little breakfast,
is the next item in the superintendent's programme, and he
returns to his bungalow for this repast. The factory is next
visited, and everything there being found satisfactory he pro-
ceeds to the fields and inspects the work of the pluckers. Here
he walks carefully along the lines of women and children who
are plucking the young grown leaves.
In our picture may be seen some pluckers at work. The Pluck-i.
baskets, which they carry suspended by ropes from their heads

and into which the}- cast the leaves over their shoulders, hold
about fourteen pounds weight when full. At the end of each
row of bushes is placed a large transport basket, into which the
leaves are emptied from time to time as the baskets become
full. Women are preferred to men for this work, and earn as
much as twenty-five cents, or about fourpence a day. They are
not always the wives of the male coolies of the estate many of
;
them come over from fndia attracted by the high rate of wages
above mentioned. They look very picturesque while standing
intent upon their work among the bushes, with their fine glossv
hair and dreamy black eyes, their ears, necks, arms, and ankles
adorned with silver ornaments, and their gay cloths of manv
Tea planting colours falling' in graceful folds. To such an extent does prac-
tice quicken the action of eye, brain, and finger, that it is
difficult for the uninitiated to believe how carefully chosen is
each leaf or shoot that falls into the basket. Plucking is a
most important part of the tea-planter's business, and re-
quires careful teaching and constant supervision. Only the
young and succulent leaves can be used in the manufacture,
and the younger the leaf the finer the quality of the tea; so
that ifa specially delicate quality is desired, only the bud and
two extreme leaves of each shoot will be taken whereas if a
;
large yield is wanted, as many as four leaves may be plucked

from the top of the shoot downwards, but with the result of a
proportionately poorer quality of the manufactured article.
There are many other points in the art of tea plucking that
require care and judgment, as, for instance, the eye or bud in
the axil of the leaf plucked must be left uninjured on the
branch and where special grades of tea are required the selec-
;
tion of particular leaves is of the utmost importance.

Weeding Although a tea estate has no hedgerows or such visible
boundaries, it is nevertheless divided into fields for convenience
of treatment, and each field is visited in turn by the super-
intendent. Weeding- is very effectively and thoroughly carried
out. It would astonish farmers in the Old Country to hear
that in Ceylon the tea fields are weeded on contract at the
rate of about one shilling and fourpence for each acre per
month, and that upon this system they are kept almost entirely
free from weeds and grass. Indeed, it may be said that the
tea gardens of Ceylon are kept far cleaner than most of the
flower gardens of England.
,, If left to Nature the tea plant will grow to the height of
about twenty feet, with a circumference of about the same
but the art of the planter keeps it down to about three feet
by constant prunings. After a year or two of plucking the
plant naturally loses the vitality requisite to send forth abund-
ance of new shoots it then undergoes the merciless operation
;
of dismemberment ; its branches are lopped off to such an

extent that it looks utterly ruined. But, as though its vital
parts had appreciated the rest, it bursts forth with renewed
vigour, and in a very few weeks is ready for the ordeal of
another year's constant plucking. It is the practice in some
cases to prune somewhat lightly every year and in others to
apply a heavier pruning biennially.
But we are anticipating, and it will perhaps be better to
explain the treatment of the plant in its earliest stages of
growth. It is planted in the fields either as seed or in the
form of young plants taken from a nursery. Each plant is
allotted twelve square feet of surface soil, and thus we may
sav that a full planted acre contains 3,630 plants. An
140. PRUNING.
important consideration in planting out the young seedlings

which are raised in the nursery is the " lining " or placing them
so that each may obtain the fullest exposure to the sun, in order
that when they reach maturity the plucking surface, which
wholly depends upon the sun's influence, may be as great as
possible. Opinions differ as to the age at which plucking may
begin, but it depends greatly upon the elevation of the estate
above sea-level, the growth being naturally less rapid in the
cooler regions of higher altitude. We may, however, say
roughly that in the low country, from sea-level to two thou-
sand feet, tea plants will mature for plucking in two years,
and upon the higher lands in four years. But about a year
before the plant thus comes into bearing for purposes of tea
manufacture it is cut down to about nine inches or a foot
from the ground and again the same operation is performed
;
two inches higher than the first cutting a couple of months

before plucking begins. The plant is now plucked regularly
every eight or nine days for two years, when it is again cut
down to a couple of inches above the last cut. It will be
seen from the foregoing remarks that in the matter of pruning
the vounger bushes are treated somewhat differently from the
older ones, inasmuch as the young ones are allowed to retain
a larger proportion of their recent growth.
The amateur who tries his prentice hand with the pruning
knife will be surprised at the hard labour of the task and the
d'scomfort of the stooping attitude that must be adopted and ;
when it is considered that a field of about fifty acres contains

some two hundred thousand bushes the amount of toil in-
volved will become apparent. Of course male coolies only are-
employed at this work, and they become so remarkably dex-
terous that what seems to the novice a task of great exertion
becomes to them one of comparative ease.
The branches which are lopped off in the process of pruning
are for the most part left where they fall; but as many fall
into and obstruct the surface drains it is necessary to put on
coolies to clear these out. A space of about six feet on either
side of the drain is kept entirely free, so that there may be
no impediment to the flow of the surface water. It is, how-
ever, considered advisable, in seasons of much blight, to burv
or burn the prunings, and this method has recently been very
extensively adopted.
It is now about ten o'clock, and the baskets of the most
dexterous pluckers should be nearly full. The superintendent
therefore returns to them and notes against their names the
weight of leaf plucked by each, after which the baskets are
emptied and the leaf conveyed to the factory. This operation
is repeated two or three times in the course of the day. At
four o'clock the pluckers cease work and carry off their baskets
Tea planting to the factor}', where the)' sort over the leaf upon mats spread
on the ground, as shown in our picture, and cast out any very
coarse leaf that may have been accidentally plucked. The
number of pounds plucked by each cooly is again entered in
the check roll against his or her name, and then the sum of
each plucker's efforts passes before the eye of the super-
intendent before the coolies are dismissed ; and woe betide
him, or her, who has not a goodly weight accounted for.
Laziness thus detected brings a fine of half pay and in many
cases a taste of the cangany's stick.
But we were describing the daily round of the superin-
tendent, and at present we have not pursued it beyond the
early morning visits to various kinds of field work. Some four
hours spent in this occupation in the pure mountain air, upon
the rockj' steeps that we have described, induce a fairly healthy
appetite for food and drink, and the next consideration is
therefore the inner man. The planter returns to his bungalow
for breakfast at about eleven, and generally spends the after-
noon in attention to correspondence. At four the sound of
the tom-tom, horn, or whistle, according to the custom of
the estate, summons the coolies from the fields to the muster
ground, where the superintendent now marks them down in
the check-roll for their day's pay. In case of bad or in-
sufficient work the offender is marked down as " sick," which
means no pay at all for that day or he gets what is termed
;
"half a name," which means half pay. Now they depart to

Cooly lines their dwellings, which are called "lines." A cooly line is
usually a long building of one storey only, divided into a large
number of compartments. Each compartment accommodates
about four coolies, and it is obvious that they do not rejoice
in the luxury of much space ; but their ideas of comfort are
not ours, and they are better pleased to lie huddled together
upon the mud floors of these tiny hovels than to occupy superior
apartments. Their lot does no^ call for pity or sympathy, for
in many respects they are a favoured class.
The factory We have now dealt with a day's field-work we have seen
:
how the raw material is obtained but we have still to examine

;
the various processes by which it is converted into the manu-

factured article. For this purpose we visit the factory. Here
the green leaf undergoes four distinct processes, known as
withering, rolling, fermenting, and firing. We will take these
in their order, and first as to withering :
Withering Let us deal with the green leaf that has been plucked on
Monday and brought to the factory as before described. It
is received by the tea maker, who ascertains its net weight,
which he enters in a book. It is then passed on to an upper
storey, where it is spread thinly on shelves of jute hessian
and left to wither. Our illustration of this process will give
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY 14:
Tea planting
a better idea of the shelves and the method of spreading' the
leaves than many words of description. These shelves are some-
times made of wire instead of jute, but jute hessian very loosely-
woven, so that the air can pass freely through it, is mostly used
for this purpose. Successful withering depends very much on
good light, warm temperature and a dry atmosphere. The
last named is often the most difficult to obtain, and upon wet,
dull days it has to be produced by artificial means. In fan-
weather the leaf will wither naturally in about eighteen or
twenty hours, but as the weather and climates vary in different
districts there can be no time rule to guide the tea maker.
When it is explained that the object of withering the leaf
is
to allow the sap and other moisture to evaporate until the leal
assumes a particular degree of softness and flaccidity, which
renders it susceptible to a good twist by the roller in the next
process, it will be realised how important a thing it is for
the tea maker to judge of the exact moment when these con-
ditions have been reached and the withering must terminate.
The leaf, being withered to this exact degree, is swept Rolling
together and conveyed to the lower floor by means of a shoot.

Here it is put into a machine called a roller. The object of
rolling is to squeeze out the tannin and any moisture left over
after the withering and to give the leaf a good twist. It is
difficult to describe a tea roller, or to illustrate its effective

parts by a photograph of the complete machine in working ;
our illustration should, however, assist us to understand it

sufficiently with the following explanation The lower part
:
may be regarded as a table with cylindrical ribs attached to

its surface and a trap door in the centre. Suspended above
this table is a smaller surface opposed to it, and the two sur-
faces are moved in contrary directions by a crank with an
eccentric motion. The upper surface is open in the centre, and
extending upwards from the opening is a funnel or box to
receive the withered leaf, which being therein placed the two
surfaces are set in motion by steam or other power, and the
leaf is thus rolled and twisted between the two surfaces. The
lid of the funnel or box is gradually screwed down as rolling-
proceeds, and in this way the pressure upon the leaf is regu-
lated. The appearance of the leaf or " roll," as it is technically
termed, when taken out of the roller is a mess of mashy lumps.
next put through a roll-breaker, which not only breaks
It is The
roll breaker
up the balls or lumps into which the leaves have formed but
sifts the small and fine leaf through a wire mesh on to a cloth
placed below to receive it. The roll-breaker operates on the
leaf by means of rapidly revolving shafts to which are attached
iron forks that beat against the balls as they are cast into the
funnel. It is by the use of rolling machinery that Cevlon tea
Tea planting is kept pure and free from the dirt which finds its way into the
teas of China, where the operation is performed by the hands
of the bland but unwashed Ah Sin.
Fermenting The leaf is next spread out in wooden frames, and having
been covered by wet cloths is allowed to ferment until it attains
a bright copper tint such as the infused leaves have in the
tea-pot or at least should have, for the brighter they appear
;
the better the tea. The rolling process, by breaking the cells
of the leaf, induces fermentation, which is a very necessary
stage of the manufacture, the character of the tea when made
depending greatly on the degree to which fermentation is
allowed to continue. When the commodity known as green
tea is required, the fermentation is checked at once so that
no change of colour may take place but to produce black tea
;
the process must be carried on for a considerable time, the

sufficiency of which is determined by the smell and appearance
of the leaf — points that require considerable experience and
care, since over-fermentation entirely spoils the quality.*
Desiccating Eermentation being complete, the tea is now transferred
to the apparatus known as the desiccator, where it undergoes
the process known as firing. The fermented leaf is spread
thinly upon wire trays, which are pushed one after the other
into this machine, where a current of hot air from 210 to
220 Fahr. is made to pass through them. The tea emerges
from the desiccator perfectly dry and brittle, and of a black
colour. It is now completely manufactured. The tea maker
next weighs it and enters the amount of " made tea " against
the leaf which he received on Monday, and it should be found
to be lighter by 76 per cent. The actual ratio of green leaf
to " made tea " works out at about 4,200 lbs. of green leaf to
1,000 lbs. of manufactured tea.
Monday's plucking which has now by Tuesday night been
converted into tea, is placed in bins, with wire meshed lids,
to cool, and on Wednesday morning it goes through the
process of sifting, which sorts it up into the various grades
known commercially as Broken Orange Pekoe, Orange Pekoe,
Pekoe, Souchong, and Dust, all of which terms are of Chinese
origin, and refer to some characteristic of the sort of tea they
represent.
si/ting The sifter is a machine consisting of a series of sieves one
above the other in the form of sloping trays with wire meshes.
The top tray has a mesh large enough to admit all but the
coarsest leaf; the mesh of the second one is somewhat smaller,
and the third and fourth decrease in like manner. This
* In the Kelani Valley and other districts of the low country where the
climate is much hotter, very little fermenting is necessary. The leaves are
spread out thinly for a short time and firing may then be proceeded with.
Tea planting sequence of meshes, varying in their apertures, is designed
inasmuch as each sieve
to allow the tea to practically sift itself,
arrests a particular grade, the smallest leaf falling through all
the sieves. These sieves or trays are made to oscillate at a
very high rate of speed, the power being supplied from the
factorv engine. It will be seen from our illustration that the
sifter automatically ejects the various grades by means of
spouts from which it falls into chests.
Golden Tips There is yet something more to be said about the tea as
it comes from the sifter. The smallest " leaf " which finds its
way to the bottom of the sifter is known as " tea dust." It
makes good tea but the crime de la crcme of Ceylon tea is
;
that which is arrested by the fourth sieve, known commercially

as Broken Orange Pekoe. It is a fine and small tea, consist-
ing to a great extent of voung tips which look like little chips
of wood. These tips not only give the tea a good appear-
ance, but they add greatlv to its strength and flavour when
infused, as they are the essence of the leaf. Alone the)' would
be far too strong for the tea-pot, but sometimes they have been
separated from the other leaves and sold as pure golden tips.
They may be separated by throwing the tea against a big sheet
of jute-hessian, to which the tips adhere and the remainder
falls to the ground.
The Broken Orange Pekoe travels along the lowest tray
till reaches the end of the machine, where it falls into its
it
box, from which it is removed, weighed again, and transferred

to bins reserved for its special grade. The other grades,
Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, and Souchong are all treated in like
manner, each falling from the sifter into its special box. The
tea maker enters into the factory book the weight of each grade-
after sifting, and checks it by the aggregate weight entered
before sifting.
The different grades are day by day stored away in their
separate bins, until there is enough to make what is tech-
nically known as a " break," which means a sufficient quantity
to place on the market —
say 6,000 lbs. and upwards.
Bulking The next operation is " bulking," a process simple enough,
but of very real importance. The whole contents of the bins
of one grade are thrown out and moved by scoops or shovels
until they become so thoroughly mixed that one pound of tea
is quite certain to be equal to another in flavour and appear-
ance. This bulking is necessary to ensure a uniformity of

qualitv throughout a grade of tea which has been plucked and
made on different days. The term " factory bulked," when
marked upon the chests in which the tea is packed for ship-
ment, indicates that the above operations have taken place,
and is a guarantee of uniform quality. It is imperative that
the planter should give most careful attention to this matter,
as buyers are entitled to reject any break that does not prove
to be evenly bulked and, moreover, teas discovered to be
;
unevenly bulked when they arrive in the London customs are

liable to be rebulked at the expense of the grower before
removal.
Packing- j s the next operation. Each chest
is lined with
lead, and weighed carefully with packet of hoop iron

its little
and nails necessary for finally securing the lid. The gross
weight of each is noted, and filling then commences. This is
generally done by machinery. The chest is placed on a plat-
form which oscillates and revolves at about two thousand five
hundred revolutions a minute the tea being poured in is thus
;
shaken so that the utmost capacity of the chest is utilised. All

this is done so accurately that the full chest contains its allotted
net weight to an ounce. A sheet of lead is now placed on the
top and soldered down, thus securing the contents from air
or moisture. The lids now being nailed on and the hoop iron
attached, the chests are reach' for the final operation of marking
with the estate name, the grade, and the gross and net weight,
after which they are ready for despatch to the tea market.
That tea planting is an active and busy life will be gathered
from the foregoing sketch of the daily round, and it may not
be untrue to say that the planter as a rule works hard. Perhaps
it is equally true that he plays harder. In this and many other
districts life is by no means all work, nor does it mean, as it
used to do in the early coffee days, banishment from the
amenities of social life. Each district has its sporting, social,
and athletic clubs, and cricket, football, and hockey grounds,
while some have also their racecourse.
We take train again at Talawakele, and after a mile or
two a distant view' of the beautiful Devon Falls is noticed. An
interesting feature of this part of the journey is the curious
serpentine winding of the line. In one place to advance a
single furlong it takes a curve of nearly a mile in length,
tracing the outline of a huge soda-water bottle, and rising
meanwhile ninety feet. The windings necessary to reach the
Great Western mountains now become so compressed that to
accomplish the distance of about one mile direct the train
traverses six miles of railway in a fashion so circuitous that a
straight line drawn from a certain point would cross the rails
nine times.
Watagoda (120m. 9c). — Watagoda station has no feature Watagoda

of special interest beyond its usefulness andin receiving 4.4°°/^
despatching the produce of the important districts which it
serves; but as we reach it, having ascended to four hundred
feet above Talawakele, the atmosphere becomes so crisp and
refreshing that it is difficult to realise the latitude of our
Main Line position within six degrees of the equator. The line now
gradually ascends upon the steep sides of the Great Western
range, and approaches Nanuoya, with sensational crossings
upon girders laid from rock to rock over the clefts of the moun-
tains, affording magnificent views of the Dimbula district and
of Adam's Peak, twenty-five miles distant, and upwards of
seven thousand feet above sea-level. The lovely purple glow
that softly lights the distant ridges in the early morn lends an
additional charm to the return journey begun at daybreak.
Nanuoya
""
—
Nanuova (128m. 6c). Nanuoya is the junction for the
'
Nuwara Eliya and Udapussellawa line. The railway facilities
are convenient, including waiting, dressing, and refreshment
rooms. Passengers travelling from Bandarawela can order
their meals by telegraph free of cost.
Weshall for the purpose of our description continue upon
the main line to the terminus of Bandarawela, afterwards re-
turning to the narrow gauge line which serves Nuwara Eliya.
From Nanuoya the main line gradually ascends some 700
more feet in the next nine miles, the scenery changing from
cultivated tea estates to stretches of primeval forest inter-
spersed with patanas or grass lands. The temperature be-
comes cold and the vegetation, although never leafless, appears
stunted as compared with the luxuriance of the lower valleys.
On the opposing slopes of a magnificent gorge the Dambagas-
talawa waterfalls dashing forth in the midst of dense forest
will be noticed from the train, and afford a beautiful sight that
should be watched for by the traveller.
Ambaweia
6,o64/ "'
—
Ambawela (137m. 8c). Ambawela station serves the New
Gallway estates five miles distant but is far from any town
;
or village. Vegetables of every kind that flourish in tem-

perate climates do well here and are cultivated for the Colombo
market and the requirements of the passenger steamships.
Among the animals that inhabit the forests are the " elk," or,
more correctly, the " sambhur " deer, the leopard, and the
elephant.
Pattipola
6,245 f"*
Pattipola (139m. 6c). — Here the highest point of the main
line is reached. This station interests us as being a con-
venient point from which to start on a walking or riding ex-
cursion to the Horton Plains (six miles). It is not the nearest
station to the plains but from it the path is easier than from
;
Ohiva, and it is the only one of the two accessible on horse-

back. Moreover, there is a comfortable rest-house at Pattipola
where wc can stay in case of missing- a train. Horton Plains
will presently be described ; but first some reference must be
made to the unique natural features of the spot we have now
reached. At Pattipola there is but a wall of rock, the crest
of a mountain, between us and a province totally different in
physical aspect and in climate. The railway pierces the rock
144. A GORGE OF THE UVA DOWNS.
145. OHIYA RAILWAY STATION.
146. UVA UNDER ITS RAINY MANTLE.

at a spot about a mile beyond Pattipola Station, and as we Main Line

emerge there is suddenly spread before us the grandest
panorama in Ceylon, a vast mountain ledge of rolling downs,
six hundred square miles in extent, forming an arena to the
lofty blue mountains that surround it. It is the province of
Uva. The transition is instantaneous, and the spectacle a startling
startling, especially
if, as often happens, we have been en-
veloped in dampmists in our approach to the tunnel. The
phenomenon is most striking in the south-west monsoon, when
the prevailing weather on the west side of the dividing range
is wet, misty and cold, while on the eastern side the whole
plains are ablaze with sunshine, and the air is crisp and dry.
It is even possible to stand on the crest of the mountain through
which the tunnel passes and see the storms of the west being
held back from the bracing air and sunshine of the east by
the dividing ranges. The existence of these two distinct and
separate climates is due to the action of the monsoons in con-
nection with the peculiar formation of the mountain system.
The astonishing effect is not limited to this neighbourhood,
but extends to all the ranges which divide the province of Uva
from the west. Thus it frequently happens that when Nuwara
Eliya is wet, a clear sky and sunshine may be enjoyed by an
hour's drive into Uva, and vice versd, for Uva is frequently
under its rainy mantle during the north-east monsoon. Some
beautiful effects are produced by this peculiar combination of
phenomena in the graceful forms evolved from the mists as
they roll onward and gather in dense masses above the crests
of the mountain barriers that protect the sunny plains.
—
Ohiya (143m. 33c). Ohiya, which we illustrate in plate Ohiya
5,go2/eet
145, is one of the most picturesque stations on this line; but
its beauty is of a character reminiscent of Cornwall rather
than the tropics, for here we see English flowers in great
variety and abundance, and no sign of the flora which dis-
tinguishes the lower elevations. About a thousand feet above
Ohiya lie the Horton Plains, which may be reached in an hour Jlorton
Plains
and a half by a precipitous path through the forest. This
extensive table-land, seven thousand feet above sea-level, was,
until the introduction of the railway, so exempt from human
interference that the elk, red deer, wild boar, and leopard
dwelt there in great numbers, and the sportsman of Ceylon
could always depend on a good bag. The old rest-house was
the only building for fifteen miles, and it was chiefly used for
hunting and shooting parties.
The present rest-house is a comfortable building, and in
the trout-fishing season is much frequented by fishermen, who
come to seek the wily trout in the picturesque stream, which
has been stocked and preserved by the Ceylon Fishing Club,
and which winds for many miles through the valley.
i
Main Line The famous abyss known as The World's End, within a
The Worlds short walk of Horton Plains rest-house, also attracts a number
of travellers, and merits a few lines of description. The
southern portion of the great table-land ends so abruptly as to
give the sensation of having literally arrived at the end of the
world. The traveller comes upon this suddenly when emerging
from the forest, and the effect is startling in the extreme. One
may stand at the brink of the precipice and gaze straight
down the sheer side of the mountain upon another world five
thousand feet below. Here is an atmosphere bracing and cold ;
there lie the steaming plains of the low country. So great

is the distance of the plantations, rivers, bungalows, and
forests, that only by the aid of a telescope can the nature of
any particular object be determined. Few human eyes looked
across that marvellous abyss until quite recent years but with
;
the facilities now offered by the railway it is becoming a more

frequented spot. Although the leopard may have deserted his
old haunt and the herds of elephants betaken themselves to
quieter regions undisturbed by the iron horse, the same weird
forests, with their dense undergrowth of masses of nelu scrub,
the same magnificent landscapes and the impressive scene at
the World's End are there unaltered. The trees, which look
so old and undisturbed with their rich long beards of variegated
moss, appear to be dwarfed by the cold of their lofty and
exposed situation. Wild flowers, orchids, and ferns always
render the scene fairy-like in the sunshine, but it is when the
nelu is in blossom that these highland forests transcend in
beauty almost every other part of Cevlon. This lovely flower-
ing shrub, of the Strobilanthes family, is the chief undergrowth
in these forests, and the species number as many as twenty-
seven, some of which grow only in the drier parts of the
country, but about twenty of them favour those forests with
a considerable rainfall. Some are delicate and small, others
have thick cane stems and grow to a great height. The
blossoms cluster round the joints of their stems, and display
—
great variety of colour blue, purple, red, white, and the parti-
coloured crimson and white. The blossoming is so profuse
that the plant takes some years to recover, and it is therefore
seldom that these high jungles are seen in their fullest glory.
The fragrance of the atmosphere is no less remarkable than
the beautv of the scene.
Haputale
4,7 6 5/
—
Haputale (153m. 43c). From Ohiya the railway gradually
descends amidst a multitude of broken cliffs and rocky ravines
and through a series of short tunnels until Haputale is reached.
This place should be visited by the traveller, if only for the
magnificent view to be obtained of the low country. On a
clear day the lowlands are visible right away to the south coast.
There is usually considerable haze over wooded and undulated

lands in the far distance; but even this is beautiful, and lends
a lovely blue tint to the whole scene.
To the south of Haputale lies an important planting- district
possessing- an almost perfect climate and lovely scenery. The
visitor, who will find the accommodation at the rest-house
sufficient for his needs, should explore the outlying districts of
Koslande and Haldamulla.
—
Diyatalawa (156m. 76c). Diyatalawa is famous as the Diyatalawa
feet
place where five thousand of the Boer prisoners-of-war were 4,367
encamped for two years. A considerable number of the build-
ings erected for their accommodation are still in use for military
purposes, the camp being used as a sanatorium for regular
troops and a training ground for the volunteers.
—
Bandarawela (160m. 58c). Bandarawela is the terminus
of the main line. Upon arrival here the visitor is generally
eager to admit that upon no other railway journey has he ex-
perienced scenes so varied and interesting as those afforded by
this journey from Colombo to Bandarawela. The railway now
renders the choice of climate to which we have previously re-
ferred available at all seasons. There is a good hotel at
Bandarawela, and the enervated resident of the lowlands can
at all times make sure of enjoying fine invigorating air in a few
hours, choosing Uva when Nuwara Eliya is wet, and vice versa.
The principal mountains which enclose the great stretch of
rolling downs, which we have seen upon our journey down
from Ohiya, surveying them from the left, are Hakgalla,
Pidurutallagalla, the Udapussellawa and Kandapola ranges,
and Namunakula.
Many pleasant excursions are open to the visitor from
Bandarawela, descriptions of which we have not space to
include here. We must, however, make some reference to
one of the most charming towns of Ceylon, that lies in a lovely
valley at the foot of the noble Namunakula — Badulla, the
capital of the province and the seat of the Government Agent.
Between Bandarawela and Badulla there is a regular coach
service, which makes the journey quite practicable for the
visitor. The journey of seventeen miles will be found interest-
ing mainly on account of the flourishing tea estates through
which we pass and the rice fields which will fill the valley for the
last four or five miles. Arriving at Badulla, in consequence of
our having descended from an elevation of four thousand to
about two thousand feet, the climate will be found much
warmer. The lower elevation favours tropical verdure, and
we see in Badulla the beautiful trees and palms that we miss in
the arena of the patanas of Uva. Upon entering the town the
traveller is impressed by the architectural features, the fine
trees and the general well-kept air of the place.
147. VIEW FROM HAPUTALE LOOKING TO TOTAPELLA.
148. Th
149. SHARP CURVE OF THE RAILWAY ABOVE
NANUOYA.
CHAPTER VIII
THE UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE ITINERARY

Passengers for Nuwara Eliya leave the main line trains at Nanuoya
Nanuoya and proceed by the narrow-gauge line which passes swf"*
through Nuwara Eliya to the district of Udapussellawa. The
pass by which Nuwara Eliya is reached is one of the most
exquisite things in Ceylon. In traversing its length the line
makes a further ascent of one thousand feet in six miles.
The curves and windings necessary to accomplish this are
the most intricate on the whole railway, and frequently have
a radius of only eighty feet. On the right side of a deep
mountain gorge we ascend amongst the tea bushes of Edin-
burgh estate, and at length emerge upon a road, which the
line shares with the cart traffic for about a mile. In the depths
of the defile flows the Nanuoya river, foaming amongst huge
boulders of rock that have descended from the sides of the
mountains, and bordered by tree ferns innumerable and brilliant
trees of the primeval forest which entirely clothe the face of the
heights. In this land of no seasons their stages of growth
are denoted by the varying tints of scarlet, gold, crimson,
sallow green, and, most striking of all, a rich claret colour, Udapussei-
the chief glory of the keena tree. Here is no leafless winter,
although we have reached an altitude where frost is not un-
known. None of the plants are deciduous. In such a climate,
however, with bright, warm and sunny days following on
chilly nights, the lovely ferns which sometimes in the early
i55
i
Udapussel- morn look with their blackened fronds soon recover
pitiable
lawa Line
their wonted hues. In plate 149 we see one of the sharp
curves of the railway to which we have referred, and in plate
148 we see the road and railway together. At Blackpool the
railway leaves the cart road and enters an enchanting glen
embellished with pools and bordered by receding hills down
whose slopes the waters of twin cataracts are dashing in head-
long course. Blackpool is the site for the new station for the
electric lighting of Nuwara Eliya, the falls of the Nanuoya
stream being used to give the necessary power. We
cross the
waters where they reach the glen, and passing through a deep
cutting come out upon the plain of Nuwara Eliya, which the
railway crosses, reaching the station on the eastern side.
Nuwara Eli; Nuwara Eliya (6m. 45c.) is well equipped with hotels and
boarding-houses. The Grand Hotel is in a central position
on the west side of the plain overlooking the golf links and
public gardens the New Keena Hotel, on the same side, is
;
near the United Club, croquet and tennis grounds, and the
Local race-course the Grand Central Hotel, near the golf links,
;
accommodatu
and the St. Andrews Hotel, well situated at the north end
of the plain, command a fine view of the whole station.
Amongst boarding-houses, Carlton House will be found
both cheap and comfortable, especially for families with
children it is
: a favourite resort for planters' families who
want a change. In addition to the accommodation thus
afforded, furnished bungalows for families making a prolonged
visit are usually available.
There is probably no other place in the world that possesses
such a remarkable combination of attractions as Nuwara Eliya.
This fact should be noted not only by the large army of wan-
derers who annually flee from the rigours of winter in northern
latitudes, but also by the enfeebled residents of the Indian
plains, for whom this unique retreat with its health-giving
properties should have an irresistible attraction. Nuwara
Eliya has a special recommendation which gives it the palm
over all other health resorts. Here we can enjoy the purest
and most invigorating air, with a temperature best suited to
the health of Europeans, and yet behold a luxuriant tropical
country at our feet. We can experience the change from a
glorious bright day to a cold Scotch mist, and yet, if we choose,
we can leave the moist atmosphere and leaden sky at will, and
by an hour's drive reach dry hills and sunny plains.
Year by year Nuwara Eliya is becoming more popular as
a winter resort for English people who wish to avoid the
vagaries and trials of an English winter. The journey is
simplicity itself, and only involves stepping into a steamer at
London, Southampton, or Liverpool and stepping off again
at Colombo. The cost is moderate, and there is a varied choice
<
g
Z
of first class shipping lines,such as the P. and O., Orient, Nuwara Eliya
Bibby, North German Lloyd, Messageries Maritimes, Nippon
Kaisha (Japanese), and others. Those who have wearied of
the Riviera and Egypt, and who desire to seek "pastures new,"
will never regret the comfortable voyage to the East and the
subsequent happy days spent in Ceylon and Nuwara Eliya,
with its glorious climate and varied attractions.
A clear idea of the situation of this favoured spot can best
be gained by regarding the highlands of Ceylon as one huge
upheaval, having an area of about 4,000 square miles, with an
irregular surface of hills and peaks of varying height, deep
ravines and grassy plains, dense forests and open valleys ; a
dozen distinct climates, each with its special characteristics of
animal and vegetable life, from the lofty palms and gorgeous
flowering shrubs of the lower elevations to the hardwood trees
and English flowers of the highest from the steaming" haunts
;
of the bear and buffalo to the cool regions beloved of the elk
and elephant. There are choice of climate and choice of scenery
to suit an)' constitution and to gratify every taste
; the wildest
rugged country and the fairest undulating plains; wild sport Attractions to
for the daring, golf-links and trout-fishing for quieter spirits, lusitors
and a new world withal for those who need a complete change
from familiar scenes.
From the base of this mighty upheaval rise abruptly the lis situation
four extensive ledges which we observed from the sea, at
different elevations, and a number of lofty mountains, some of
which reach the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level.
The highest, called Pidurutallagalla, reaches 8,280 feet, and at
the foot of it lies the Nuwara Eliya plain, just 2,000 feet below.
Its position is, roughly speaking, in the centre of the highlands
and approximately at the highest elevation, o'ertopped by only
one of the mountain ledges. What wonder, then, at its pure
and unpolluted air and its marvellous effects on the weakened
constitutions of denizens of the low country, who find in it a
sanatorium for regaining the energies they have lost?
To the newly-arrived visitor nothing is more astonishing Its salubrity
than the mental and physical change that he himself experi-
ences. The pale and languid victim of the sultry plains is
surprised at the sudden return of his lost appetite and the
delightful glow that pervades the system, marking the return
of the warm tints of health. A few days effect a still greater
change the muscles become firm, the limbs gain vigour, and,
;
above all, the rising spirits rapidly dispel the clouds of de-
pression and invest existence with new delight. All this is due
to the wonderful influence of the pure mountain air.
Nuwara Eliya is an elliptical mountain valley, the plateau Geographical
being 6,240 feet above sea-level and about eight miles in cir- fcatur
cumference. It is surrounded by steep mountain ridges rising
Nuwara Eliya to a height varying from a few hundred to two thousand feet
above the plain. —
There are four gaps that on the north-east
leading into the Kotmale valley, that on the south-east to the
province of Uva, that on the west to the Dimbula valley, and
that on the east to Kandapolla and Udapussellawa. The tops
themselves are for the most part thickly wooded, and still con-
stitute favourite haunts of the leopard and the elk. The plain
is charmingly undulated, and forms an admirable playground
for both residents and visitors. In this connection it boasts,
like so many other places, one of the best golf-links out of
Scotland, and possesses an excellent race-course.
climate When we remember that Nuwara Eliya is only six degrees
north of the equator, and no more than 6,240 feet above the
sea, the mean temperature, which is only 57 Fahrenheit,
appears extraordinarily low. There is no doubt that this is
mainly due to the geographical position of the island. Its
moderate dimensions expose it to the full influence of the
uniform temperature of the surrounding seas, while it is subject
to the direct rays of the sun only twelve hours out of the
twenty-four. The intense evaporation by day and the rapid
cooling by night are also two important factors in the climatic
peculiarities of the island. The Governor of Ceylon has a
charming residence here (Queen's Cottage), and he and his
family frequently make use of it, especially in the hot weather
from March to May.
its season The Nuwara Eliya season extends from November to May,
each month having a fair proportion of fine days, February being
the finest. On the whole, perhaps, March is the pleasantest.
June and July are the only months that should be altogether
avoided on account of rain and wind. October is generally
very wet. But let it not be supposed that the merits of Nuwara
Eliya as a health resort disappear with the fine weather. It is
true that during the second half of the year rainy days arc
prevalent, but the occasional bright spells intervening bring
the most glorious days of the year, and the worst that can be
said is that during this period it resembles a rather wet summer
in the Highlands of Scotland. Moderately warm days, with
a Scotch mist, followed by cool evenings that allure to the
cheerful fireside of a well-furnished and carpeted bungalow,
with intermittent days of sunshine, and a change within easy
distance to any temperate climate you may fancy, make up a
state of things not to be contemned even by those who are in
a position to humour their every whim. Nuwara Eliya, indeed,
supplies not onlv the energy needed for vigorous exercise, but
provides also, in addition to its sporting facilities, innumerable
walks that are unequalled in their attractions. Amongst them,
the path to the summit of Pidurutallagalla, 8,300 feet above the
level of the sea, deserves especial mention.
The ascent is easy and the reward great. From no other Nuwara Eiiya
mountain top in the world can you literally see over a whole pidurutaila-
From shore i'" //"
island of such extent and beauty as from this.
to shore lie outstretched in every direction forests and plains,
mountain ranges interlaced in intricate confusion, masses of
verdant patana lands, interspersed with glittering streams :
while the stillness of the profound solitude is broken only by

the sounds from mountain torrents in their wild rush over the
huge boulders in the rock)- ravines. It is here, with the
accumulated impressions of the whole journey from the coast
to the highest point of the highlands fresh in his mind, that
the traveller confers on Ceylon the title of "the show place of
the universe."
to the top is about four miles, and a very good
The journey
two hours' walk. The glorious exhilaration of the pure
and bracing air encourages residents in Nuwara Eliya to
make frequent excursions on this account alone. The prospect
varies so much under different atmospheric conditions that
every fresh trip is amply rewarded by the ever-changing scenes
that meet the gaze, while the cloud studies surpass even those
of Alpine countries.
But grandest of all is that beautiful scene which heralds the
approach of day. To stand upon the highest point of this
sea-girt land, with the shadowed sky above and brooding dark-
ness below, there to watch the rosy-fingered dawn cast her
first rays upon the thousand peaks that begin to peep through
the snowy mists which yet enshroud the low-lying valleys, is
an experience well worth the surrender of a few hours of
sleep and an occasional fright at midnight forest sounds which
betoken the proximity of some denizen of the jungle. The
first glimmer of light reveals snowy masses of mist as far as
the eye can scan, right awav to the ocean east and west, with
lighted peaks peering through the veil resembling laughing
islands dotting a sea of foam. Then as the dawn breaks a
golden tint gradually appears over the hills, and when the sun
bursts over the horizon a rapid transformation takes place.
The petrified surf of the mists now begins to move upwards,
and reveals with vivid clearness the valleys all fresh from
their repose. The dewy leaves of the forest trees and the
trails of beautiful moss which cling to their branches glisten
with tints of gold, the moistened rocks sparkle with diamonds,
and all nature rejoices at the new-born day.
As the sun rises higher the nearer slopes become more
distinct, and the distant ranges are clearly visible right away
to Adam's Peak. The intermediate range of the Great Western
(7,264 feet), five miles west of Nuwara Eliya, and Talankanda
range (6,137 feet), dividing the tea-growing districts of Dim-
bula and Dickoya, are seen most clearly as the sun gains power.
L
16s THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Nuwara Eliya Nuwara Eliya is lying at our feet. The whole plain glistens
with hoar frost or sparkling dew the river, like a silver streak,
;
winds its course to the Hakgalla gorge, and for a great dis-
tance ranges of forest-clad mountains alternate with waving
plains. The nearest range is that called One Tree Hill,
then comes the Elk Plains range, the next is a mountain of
the Agrapatana district, and the lofty range in the distance
is that of Horton Plains. The tops of all these ranges are
clothed with forests, while rolling patanas cover the ridges
between.
As we descend in the broadening day we notice the great
contrast between the character of the Pidurutallagalla forest
and that of the lowlands. Instead of waving palms we see
weird trees with gnarled trunks and forked boughs, festooned
with long beards of lichen and orange moss. Many of the
trunks are clothed with rich green creepers and adorned with
the fantastic blooms of native orchids, and parasites innumer-
able bedeck the upper branches with strangest flowers, while
the magnificent Rhododendron arboreum, with its great
branches and brilliant blossoms, appears everywhere as a
common forest tree.
Although the European community is small, it cannot be
said that life is in the least degree monotonous to those who
are fond of country pursuits. In addition to the wild sport of
the jungle, including hunting (on foot) of the so-called elk
(really sambhur deer), at which the presence of visitors is
welcomed by the courteous owners of local packs, there are
many distractions, such as cricket, golf, polo, hockey, and
lawn-tennis. The lake is full of carp, and trout have been
successfully introduced into the neighbouring streams, licences
to fish in which are granted for any period between the months
of April or May and October on payment of the necessary
subscription.
Goij But of all the amusements in which Nuwara Eliya indulges
we must award golf the first place, because it has the largest
number of votaries. That this should be so nobody wonders
who sees the links and realises what a perfect golfing climate
Nuwara Eliya affords. The course consists of eighteen^ holes,
and for perfect turf, excellent greens, and variety of hazards
it would be difficult to find an equal. Visitors are welcomed
by the Golf Club and can play on moderate terms, and in this
perfect climate the game can be played at morning, noon, or
—
eve a blessing to the low country resident, whose exercise
is usually restricted to the cooler hours of evening, when the
sun's rays are less severe.
The visitor, be he from the low country of Ceylon, from
the plains of India, or from distant England, Australia, New
Zealand, or the Far East, has nothing but praise for this
153. NATIVE TREE FERNS AT HAKGALLA.
perfectly maintained golf course. Ladies are allowed to play

on these links except on Saturdays and Sundays.
For the sterner sex, the Hill Club, with its perfect situation
and comfortable accommodation (including a number of bed-
rooms), will be found most excellent, and members of recog-
nised clubs can obtain temporary membership. It ranks as
the principal club of Ceylon, out of Colombo.
The United Club for ladies and gentlemen is a most suc-
cessful institution. It includes a library, reading-room, ball-
room, concert hall, separate ladies' or "mixed" golf links,
croquet and lawn tennis courts. Its quarters are situated in
the midst of its courts and links and command exceedingly
pretty views. There is an excellent cricket pitch in front of
the club-house, and although this once supremely popular game
has to some extent suffered eclipse through the introduction of
golf and croquet, some first-rate cricket is often played here.
The sunny yet cool climate seems to breed enthusiasm lor
sports and amusements of all kinds.
A shallow gap on the mountain heights forms the exit
from Nuwara Eliya on the Uva side. This gap leads to a
lovely gorge, which extends to the foot of the majestic Hak-
galla, where the clouds descend in saturating mist during the
wet season. This is the most interesting drive in the neigh-
bourhood. For five miles the descent is steep. The pre-
cipitous crags have been cut away for the construction of the
road, which in its winding course affords grand views of deep
wooded ravines, covered with tree ferns in wonderful variety,
and teeming with waterfalls.
Beneath the rock, which in its form and outline is one of
the notable things in Ceylon, nestle the Hakgalla Gardens.
While these gardens are no less than 5,400 feet above the sea,
this mighty crag towers above them to the height of a further
1,600 feet. Here is a spot famous for picnic breakfasts, usually
discussed in an arbour with an unbroken view of the plains
of Uva stretching far below.
The gardens, beautiful in themselves, owe much to their
situation, and are the seat of experiments in the acclimatisa-
tion of plants from temperate lands outside the tropics and
from the heights of other tropical countries. We are surprised
at the number of trees and shrubs, and the variety of fruits
and flowers that are rarely to be found in a tropical garden.
In addition to acclimatisation, the all-important work of ex-
tending and improving the various species of indigenous plants
is carried on, in order that the natural resources of the country
may be utilised to the best advantage. In this place of practical

science agricultural theories arc translated into actual fact, and
provide invaluable material for the enterprise and initiative of
the colonist.
154. KANDAPOLA STATION 6,316 FEET ABOVE
SEA LEVEL.
155. THE UDAPUSSELLAWA RAILWAY NEAR KANDAPOLA.

Kandapola (12m. 33c). —

Kandapola station, 6,316 feet Udapussei-
above sea level,has the distinction of being situated at the
highest elevation reached by the Ceylon Government Railway. Kandapola
It marks the entrance into the planting district of Udapussel- t,3i6/iet
lawa, which, although in the Central Province, is really part
of the great mountain ledge popularly known as the Uva
country, and is subject to the same conditions of climate as
Haputale and Bandarawela which we have already described.
So that in the wet season of Nuwara Eliya a drv and sunny
climate is very near at hand, being easily accessible by a short
railway journey. The line to Kandapola leaves Nuwara Eliya
by the eastern gap, crosses the Barrack Plains, and winds up
a steep incline, sharing the carriage road for the greater part
of the distance.
Brookside (16m. 45c). — Between Kandapola and Brook- Brookside
side the line descends thirteen hundred feet in four miles. -t,9 s i/'<''
This station serves the estates around it, but has no special
interest for the visitor.
—
Ragalla (igm. 17c). Ragalla is the terminus of this line. Ragalla
Here there is a rest-house with the usual appointments, where $,*&/"*
visitors can obtain food and lodging.
Those who live upon the few tea estates that extend to the
very edge of these highlands where the descent to the heated
plains of the low country is abrupt and precipitous are fre-
quently witnesses of atmospheric phenomena that are at once
terrible and magnificent. The sun is shining upon the smiling
gardens of tea at an elevation of five thousand feet from which
the spectator sees the olive green patanas in soft and sym-
metrical curves rolling away to the borders of the tender green
paddy fields of the lower slopes. Away in the distance lies the
Bintenne country with its undulated land of forest and jungle,
the retreat of the elephant, leopard and bear, and stretching
away in a blue haze to the sea coast. Deep violet shadows are
playing upon the lower foothills in constantly changing forms
as masses of cloud pass over them. Presently the vapours
gather in dense masses enshrouding in semi-darkness one
sequestered valley. Suddenly a streak of fire passes through
the leaden sky, a faint rumbling reaches our ears, the darkened
mass momentarily changes to a lurid glow only to appear more
blackened by the flame. Then, as if a vast cistern were sud-
denly perforated in a myriad places it simply " rains ramrods
"
for a quarter of an hour, the frequent flashes of vivid lightning
affording the spectator a view of the deluge descending upon
the little valley whose vegetation recovers from the bombard-
ment almost as suddenly as it had been attacked, and thrives
amazingly as the result; for although not very distant from
the cool and bracing region from which it has been witnessed,
that little dale is a veritable hothouse.
156. GANEWATTE STATION.
CHAPTER IX
THE NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY

From Polgahawela Junction to Kankesanturai
Northern The Xorthern Line which branches off from the main line at
Line
Polgahawela affords the traveller every facility for visit-
ing- the chiefCeylon's antiquities, its oldest ruined city
of
Anuradhapura also renders easily accessible the interesting
; it
peninsula of Jaffna, until quite recently so isolated from the

capital that communication was possible only by sea or a most
uncomfortable three or four days' journey by cart road. But
the interest of the visitor centres in the supreme attraction of
Anuradhapura, whose remains are, as we shall see later,
amongst the greatest wonders of the world.
The itinerary from Colombo to Polgahawela has already
been described, and we shall now proceed to the first station
of the northern branch.
Potuhera Potuhera (7m. 53c). —
It will be sufficiently evident that
we are here again in the midst of tea, cacao, arecas, coconuts,
paddy, betel, kurrakan, tamarinds, plantains, limes and sweet
potatoes. We
see them all flourishing in the native gardens,
and especially the plantains, tons of which are daily despatched
to distant markets. The village is a verv small one but ;
boasts of a large number of ancient wihdres due to the circum-

stance that Kurunegala, onlv six miles distant, became the seat
of government after the final overthrow of Polonnaruwa in the
earlv part of the fourteenth centurv.
16S
THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY i6g
Kurunegala (13m. 150.)- —

Kurunegala is now the capital Northern
Line
of the North Western Province, and the centre of an important
agricultural district, which has during the last twenty years
risen by leaps and bounds to a condition of great prosperity.
Not only has the capitalist greatly extended the cultivation of
coconuts where a few vears ago all was jungle inhabited only
by the elephant; but the villager, stimulated bv example and
the encouragement of a paternal government, has awakened
to the prolific possibilities of his higher lands, and has added
other products to his hitherto exclusive paddy cultivation. The
result is not only a great increase of wealth ; but a decided
improvement in health also; for Kurunegala was not many
years ago dreaded for its own special type of malarial fever
that almost alwavs attacked the new-comer and which greatly
distressed the natives during the dry weather immediately
following on the rains, when vegetation rotted in the swamps.
Now that so much of the country has been cleared of its rank-
vegetation for cultivation great improvement is manifest, and
it is hoped that in course of time Kurunegala fever will be
unknown. The town, which has a population of about 7,000,
is beautifullv situated and possesses an ornamental lake of
about one hundred acres. The fine residence of the Govern-
ment Agent, still known as the Maligawa (palace), is on the
site of the ancient roval palace. A few years ago its grounds
were strewn with remains of the original building but the ;
most interesting of them have now been deposited in the

Colombo museum.
The natural features of Kurunegala are extremely pii -
turesque, and possess some characteristics that are peculiar.
Behind the town there stretches for some miles a series of
enormous rocks rising to upwards of eight hundred feet from
the plain. Thev are eight in number, and six of them bear
distinctive names of animals which their curious shapes have
been supposed to represent. These are the Elephant, Tortoise,
Beetle, Goat and Crocodile. There are also two others
Eel,
known as the Gonigala or Sack Rock, and the Yakdessagala
or She-demon's Curse; the latter rising to 1,712 feet above sea
level.
These rocks doubtless influence in some degree the tempera-
ture of the air at Kurunegala; but less than is generally
supposed. The heat is very much the same as at Colombo,
averaging 8o° Eahr. The most interesting of the rocks may
be climbed, and the reward is commensurate with the effort
demanded, the surrounding country exhibiting its tropical flora
to better advantage than when seen from the greater heights.
On the Tortoise Rock (Ibbagala), which is approached from
the Kachcheri within the town, there is an interesting- temple
situated beneath an overhanging ledge a portion of the rock
;
157. KURUNEGALA VIEW FROM THE ELEPHANT ROCK.
158. KURUNEGALA: ELEPHANT ROCK FROM THE LAKE.

does duty as the roof and is gorgeously painted with the Northern
Line
Buddhist conventional portraits, flowers, and various other
designs. The temple contains a large number of images of the
Buddha and his disciples. In the precincts are a dagaba and a
copy of the impression of Buddha's footprint upon Adam's
Peak.
The Elephant Rock (Etagala), which adjoins the Tortoise,
is the favourite resort of visitors and residents alike. It affords
delightful views of the town, the lake and the more distant
country.
—
Wellawa (19m. 18c). At Wellawa the aspect of the Wellawa
country already begins to change, and products that we have
not hitherto met with are noticed amongst them tobacco and
;
hemp. The village of about 1,500 inhabitants is under a

Ratemahatmaya who pays a monthly visit of inspection, while
minor judicial causes are dealt with by a Gansabawa president
at fortnightly sessions. The landscape is enriched by the
Yakdessagala, to which we have referred, and Dolukanda
peak. Fair sport in snipe, deer and hare may be obtained.
The neat little railway station of two stories, with its flower
garden extending along the platform, will be noticed.
—
Ganewatte (26m. 39c). As we approach Ganewatte the Ganewatte
little paddy farms, which have been observed amongst the
greater stretches of waste land covered with natural jungle,
gradually become fewer, and it is evident that we are enter-
ing- a sparsely populated region. There is a rest-house at
Hiripitiya, about a mile from the station, which is useful to
the sportsman. It is, however, necessary to order provisions
in advance or take them.
For about twelve miles from Ganewatte the country on
either side of the railway appears to be waterless and uncul-
tivated, until about four miles from Maho a large pond is
passed. Here the signs of life are storks and water fowl.
Paddy again appear, and cart roads are in evidence on
fields
both sides of the line suggesting a centre of some importance
amongst the wilds.
Maho (40m. 3c). —
The railway here brings within easy
reach of the antiquarian the remains of another royal city,
Yapahuwa, which is situated about three miles from Maho
station. Yapahuwa was the retreat of the reigning sovereign
Bhuvaneka Bahu I. after the downfall of Polonnaruwa, and
remained the capital for eleven years from 1303. The most
interesting of the remains have been removed to the Colombo
museum, and amongst them a stone window with forty-five
circular perforations within which arc sculptured symbols and
figures of dancers and animals, the whole being carved out
of a single slab of granite. It shows the great artistic skill
of the period and gives a clue to the lavish architectural

i-2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Northern decoration employed in beautifying the city, notwithstanding the
Llne
troublous times. But Yapahuwa soon met with a fate even
worse than Polonnaruwa for the Pandvan invaders not only
;
overthrew it, but captured and carried off to India the national
palladium, the tooth of Buddha.
Travellers can obtain single or double bullock carts at
Maho at very moderate rates of hire. The only accommodation
in the neighbourhood is the rest-house at Balalla about three
miles distant. It is necessary to take what food may be
required or order it in advance. The climate being exceedingly
hot a plentiful supply of aerated waters should also be taken
as the water of the district is not to be trusted.
Ambanpola —
Ambanpola (47m. 2ic). As we approach Ambanpola the
dense scrub gives place to more open country and the forest
trees become finer. Upon reaching the river Miova over which
we pass upon approaching Galgamuwa some excellent timber
will be noticed, indicating increased fertility due to a more
ample supplv of water. But upon proceeding further north we
are soon again in stunted scrub which renders the journey
monotonous as compared with our experiences on the railways
further south.
Galgamuwa Galgamuwa (53m. 40c). —
The country around Galgamuwa
abounds in lakes or tanks constructed for purposes
artificial
of irrigation, one of which will be noticed quite close to the
station from which the water supply for our engine is
obtained. By means of these tanks a considerable acreage of
land is brought under cultivation the products are, however,
;
quite different from those with which we are already familiar,

the chief of them being gingelly, chillies, kurrakan, gram and
cotton. There arc eighteen irrigation tanks in the neighbour-
hood, around and about which birds are plentiful; snipe, golden
plover and teal affording good sport. Large game too abounds
in the forest, including leopard, deer, pig, elephant, and bear.
There is a rest-house within a mile of the station where the
traveller will find the usual accommodation. Provisions should
be taken or ordered in advance.
Taiawa —
Tai.awa (71m. 75c). Talawa has no special interest for the
visitor, and no accommodation beyond that afforded by the
railway station. Its possibilities in the direction of cotton cul-
ture are being put to the test by the government, who have
established an experimental station not far from here.
Anuradhapura —
AnuradhApura (81m. 2ic). Anunidhapura is the capital
of the North Central Province and the seat of a Government
Agent but beyond this it is a place of supreme interest to
;
the visitor and is consequently provided with considerable

accommodation for the traveller. The hotel is fairly spacious
and very comfortable, but it cannot be said that the accommo-
dation is sufficient at all times, and it is very necessary for the
ANURADHAPURA
Map showing the positions of the
Principal Ruins.
Pavilions witli Moonstones ^^.

and sculptured flights of steps
Northern intending- visitor to secure rooms before proceeding- on the
Line journey to Anuradhapura. Professional guides and convey-
ances may be obtained.
The city is on a level plain, about three hundred feet above
the sea, and possesses a warm but not uncomfortable climate,
the mean temperature being 8o° Fahr. The rains extend from
October to December. January is often a Aery pleasant month,
but liable to showers. February is generally most pleasant,
while March and April are rather warmer. Fine weather and
wind characterise the months of July and August. But the
weather seldom interferes with the visitor, as even in the wet
season fine intervals are frequent and enjoyable.
Before entering upon a description of the many wonders of
Anuradhapura it should be stated that from July, 1910, the
Government Railway Department are inaugurating a motor
mail service from Anuradhapura to Trincomalee, sixty-five miles
distant. For those who do not care to go to the expense
of hiring a private motor car for the circular trip mentioned
on pages 122-124, a tr 'P by the mail coach to Trincomalee is
strongly urged. Thereby at a reasonable cost a delightful
experience of one of the most charming real jungle roads (on
which one may possibly light upon an unwary leopard or wild
boar) in the island will be obtained, whilst in Trincomalee
one of the most lovely of natural harbours in the world will
be discovered. (See also description of Trincomalee on p. 124.)
i'iu- story ,^ The account of Anuradhapura given in these pages is in-
th
tended mainly to excite the interest of the traveller or to
quicken that which has already been aroused before he pro-
ceeds to make a personal acquaintance with the ruins. It is
mainly extracted from the author's previous work upon the
subject.
It is a great thing that the period of the erection of the
buildings whose remains now stand before us falls within
the domain of authentic history. Not a single building or
sculptured stone has been found that docs not come within
this period, and it is remarkable that in India no relic of
ancient architecture has been discovered of a date anterior
to that of the ruined cities of Ceylon, while the history of the
latter is infinitely clearer and more reliable than that of the
adjoining continent, a circumstance due to the careful pre-
servation by the Sinhalese of the olas on which the events
of verv earlv times were inscribed.
lle
Mihintale first claims our attention because here began the
Buddhist influence, the efficient cause of all the constructive
energy which the Sinhalese displayed in the erection of their
vast cities and monuments. Eight miles to the east of the
*" Ruined Cities of Ceylon," by Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S.,
M.R.A.S. 4th Edition. Hutchinson & Co., London, 1907.
159. THE MAHA SEYA.
160. ROCK DWELLINGS.

Mihintale sacred part of the city of Anuradhapura the rocky mountain,
now called Mihintale, rises abruptly from the plain to the
height ol a thousand feet. Its slopes are now covered with
dense forest from the base almost to the summit, with the
exception of the space occupied bv a grand stairway of granite
slabs which lead from the level plain to the highest peak.
These steps, one thousand eight hundred and forty in number,
render easy an ascent which must have been originally very
toilsome. They are laid on the eastern side, which is the least
steep, the southern face being almost precipitous. The last
hundred and fifty steps are hewn in the solid rock, and at the
top is visible the north-east side of the ruined Etwehera
dagaba.
At first sight the landscape conveys only the impression
of a natural hill with precipitous sides covered with
vegetation, and were not curiosity aroused bv the flight of
steps, the dagaba might easily escape notice. A closer
examination, however, reveals the existence of the ruined
edifice that crowns the summit of the mountain. Near it there
are other dagabas of great size. One, called the Maha Seya
(see Plate 159), is placed in a position whence grand views of
the surrounding country are obtained. The summit of this can
be reached by the adventurous climber, and the exertion, if not
the danger, is well repaid bv the striking spectacle of the ruined
shrines of Anuradhapura rising above a sea of foliage, and the
glistening waters of the ancient artificial lakes relieving the
immense stretches of forest. For twenty centuries this mass of
brickwork defied the destructive tooth of time and the dis-
integrating forces of vegetable growth but a tew years ago it
;
showed signs of collapse on the west face, and underwent some

repairs bv the Ceylon Government. Our illustration presents
a near view from the south, showing the portion cleared of
vegetation and repaired. Some idea of the proportion of this
dagaba may be gathered by noticing that what appears to be
grass upon the upper portion of the structure is in reality a
mass of forest trees that have grown up from seeds dropped
by birds.
The whole mountain is literally covered with interesting
remains sacred to the memory of Mahinda, the royal apostle
of Buddha in Ceylon. In the solid granite of the steeper
slopes were engraved the instructions for the priests, dealing
with every detail of their life and every item of ceremonial
observance.
inscription* These which are still legible, tell us that none
inscriptions,
who destroyed any way were permitted to live near the
life in
mountain special offices were allotted to various servants and
;
workmen accounts were to be strictly kept and examined at

;
an assembly of priests certain allowances of money to every

;
person engaged in the temple service were made for the Mihintale
purchase of flowers, so that none might appear without an
offering cells arc assigned to the readers, expounders, and
;
preachers; hours of rising, of meditation, and of ablution are

prescribed careful attention to food and diet for the sick is
;
enjoined there arc instructions to servants of every kind,

;
warders, receivers of revenue, clerks, watchmen, physicians,

surgeons, laundrymen, and others, the minuteness of detail
giving an excellent idea of the completeness of arrangement
for the orderly and beautiful keeping of the venerated locality.
Amongst other interesting remains on the mountain is the jY"a'" Pahwa
Xaga Pokuna or snake bathing pool. This is hewn out of the
solid rock, and is one hundred and thirty feet in length and of
extremely picturesque appearance. On the rock which over-
hangs one side of the pool is an immense five-hooded cobra
carved in high relief. Having regard to the role of protector
assigned to the cobra in the ancient legend, this monster, with
his hood spreading fully six feet across, doubtless possessed
prophylactic virtues, which were assisted by the ceremonial
ablutions for which this weird and mysterious looking bath
was constructed.
Amongst the best preserved relics is the Ambastala Dagaba
which enshrines the ashes of Mahinda, who ended his days on
the spot where his successful mission began. The shrine
marks, it is said, the very piece of ground where the first
meeting of the monarch Tissa and the royal missionary took
place. It is built of stone instead of the usual brick, and is
surrounded by fifty slender octagonal pillars with sculptured
capitals.
We have exhausted all the space that can here be devoted
to Mihintale but the enthusiastic student of antiquities might
;
spend weeks in exploring the very numerous remains upon this

mountain, which at present has not been dealt with by the
Archaeological Commission. The road from Anuradhapura is
good, and the rest-house affords comfortable accommodation.
At Anuradhapura we shall see the remains of many build- Anuradhapura
ings which were erected by Tissa as a result of his conversion.
These will be found in that part of the city which was at the
time of Mahinda's visit the Mahamega, or king's pleasure
garden. The tradition is that the report of Bimbisara, king
of Magadha, having presented his own pleasure garden to
Buddha and of its being accepted by him for the use of the
priests had reached the cars of Tissa, and in imitation of this
pious example he dedicated the Mahamega to sacred purposes.
This garden of twenty square miles in extent was in the centre
of the royal city. The gilt was important, as signifying the
royal protection extended to the new religion, and like all
matters of special interest it received much attention from the
M
161. THE MAHAMEGA, OR KING'S PLEASURE GARDEN
Anuradhapura
—may
ancient chronicler, as be seen by the following extract
from the Mahawansa :
Dedication " In the morning-, notice having- been previously given

of the by
Maliamega beat of drums, the celebrated capital, the road to 'the them's
(chief priest's) residence, and the residence itself on all sides,
having- been decorated, the lord of chariots, decked in all the
insignia of royalty, seated in his chariot, attended by his
ministers and the women of the palace, and escorted by the
martial array of his realm, repaired to the temple constructed
by himself, accompanied by this great procession.
"There, having approached the theras worthy of venera-
tion and bowed down to them, proceeding together with the
theras to the upper ferry of the river, he made his progress,
ploughing the ground with a golden plough to mark the limits
for the consecration. The superb state elephants, Mahapaduma
and Kunjara, were harnessed to the golden plough. Beginning
at the first Kuntamalaka, this monarch, sole ruler of the
people^
accompanied by the theras, and attended by the four con-
stituent hosts of his military array, himself held the half
of
the plough.
" Surrounded by exquisitely painted vases, carried
in pro-
HE CEVLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
1
179
PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TOP OF THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.
cession, and gorgeous flags; trays containing sandal dust; Anuradhapura

mirrors with gold and silver handles; baskets borne down by Dedkatici
the weight of flowers triumphal arches made of plantain of the
;
Mahaiatr,
trees, and females holding up umbrellas and other decora-
tions; excited by the symphony of every kind of music;
encompassed by the martial might of his empire overwhelmed
;
by the shouts of gratitude and festivity which welcomed him

—
from the four quarters of the earth; this lord of the land
made his progress, ploughing and exhibiting furrows, amidst
enthusiastic acclamations, hundreds of waving handkerchiefs,
and the exultations produced by the presentation of superb
offerings.
"The eminent saint, the Mahathera, distinctly fixed the
points defining the boundary, as marked by the furrows made
by the king's plough. Having fixed the position for the
erection of thirty-two sacred edifices, as well as the Thuparama
dagaba, and having, according to the forms already observed,
defined the inner boundaries thereof, this sanctified person on
that same day completed the definition of all the boundary
lines. At the completion of the junction of the sacred
boundary line the earth quaked."
Anuradhapuri Having thus dedicated the royal precincts of the city to
religious purposes, Tissa's next object was to hallow them by
the presence of a relic of the Buddha himself.
It is not within our present purpose to quote the legends
that embellish the history contained in the ancient Sinhalese
writings, and we must pass on to the shrine itself, built by
Tissa about the year B.C. 307.
The Thuparama We accept as authentic the statement that the Thuparama
was the first of the large shrines built upon this sacred ground,
and that it was erected by King Tissa to enshrine a true relic.
This monument is in itself evidence of the remarkable skill
of architect, builder, and sculptor in Ceylon at a period anterior
to that of any existing monument on the mainland. The upper
portion of the structure has been renovated by the devotees of
modern times, but the carvings and other work of the lower
portion remain untouched. All the Ceylon dagabas are of this
bell shape, but their circumference varies from a few feet to
over eleven hundred, some of them containing enough masonry
to build a town for twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The
Thuparama is small compared with many of them, the
diameter of the bell being about forty feet and its height about
sixty.
The most attractive feature of the dagaba is the arrange-
ment of ornamental pillars on the platform. A large number,
as may be seen by a glance at our illustration (Plate i6ia),
are still erect. They are all slender monoliths of elegant
proportions. The carvings of the capitals are singularly beau-
tiful they contain folial ornaments as well as grotesque figure-
;
sculptures, and are fringed to a depth of more than a foot with

tassels depending from the mouths of curious masks. These
pillars are placed in four concentric circles, and decrease in
height as the circles expand, the innermost being twenty-three
feet and those of the outside circle fourteen feet high.
There has been a great deal of speculation as to the possible
structural use of these pillars. It is very likely that they served
some purpose besides that of mere ornament, but what that
was we are hardly likely now to discover, as no allusion is
made to them in any of the ancient chronicles.
Of the original one hundred and seventy-six pillars only
thirty-one remain now standing entire with their capitals.
The interesting ruins of the Dalacki Maligawa, or Palace of
the Tooth, are within the original outer wall of the Thuparama
enclosure. This palace was built for the reception of Buddha's
tooth upon its arrival in Ceylon in a.d. 311.
Sacra! ^Ye pass now to a relic which has perhaps attracted more
Tile
Ho Tree attention than any other —
the sacred bo tree. The royal con-
vert, King Tissa, having succeeded in obtaining a branch of
161a. birds eye view of the thuparama.
162. THE SACRED BO TREE.

163. THE ISURUMUNIYA ROCK TEMPLE.
164. SCULPTURED TABLET AT ISURUMUNIYA.

the fig tree under which the Buddha had been wont to sit in Anuradhapura
meditation, planted it at Anuradhapura, and it is now the
venerable tree which we see still flourishing after more than
twenty centuries. Its offspring have formed a grove which
overshadows the ruins of the once beautiful court and the tiers
of sculptured terraces which were built around it. All that is
left of the magnificent entrance to the enclosure is seen in our
picture (Plate 162) —
a few bare monoliths and the two janitors
still at their post.
The history of the venerable tree recounts with great
exactness the functions held in its honour, together with
reliable information on matters connected with its careful
preservation and the adoration bestowed upon it. That it
escaped destruction by the enemies of Buddhism throughout
many invasions is perhaps attributable to the fact that the
same species is held in veneration by the Hindus who, while
destroying its surrounding monuments, would have spared the
tree itself.
Another very ancient and interesting foundation attributed hurummiya
to King Tissa is the Isurumuniya Temple. This curious build-
ing, carved out of the natural rock, occupies a romantic
position. Before and behind lie large lotus ponds on whose
banks huge crocodiles may occasionally be seen. We may
easily photograph them from a distance by means of a telescope
lens, but they object to be taken at short range. We may
approach them with a hand camera, but immediately it is pre-
sented to them they dart into the water at lightning speed.
These ponds are surrounded by woodland scenery which
presents many an artistic feature but we must here be content
;
with a near view of the temple itself. To the right of the

entrance will be noticed a large pokuna or bath. This has
been restored and is quite fit for its original purpose of cere-
monial ablution, but the monks now resident have placed it at
the disposal of the crocodiles, whom they encourage by pro-
viding them with food.
The modern entrance to the shrine, with its tiled roof, is in
shocking contrast to the rock-building, and unfortunately this
is the case with all the ancient rock-temples of the island.
The terraces which lead to the shrine are interesting for

their remarkable frescoes and sculptures in bas-relief. There
are more than twenty of these in the walls, and all of them are
exceedingly grotesque.
In addition to the tablets, the natural rock was frescoed in
high relief, and although many of the figures have become
hardly discernible, owing to the action of the climate during so
many centuries, others are still clearly defined. Above the
corner of the bath are the heads of four elephants, and above
them is a sitting figure holding a horse. Similarly there are
1 84 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Anuradhapura quaint carvings in many other parts. The doorway is mag-
nificent, and for beautiful carving almost equals anything to
be found in Ceylon. There is nothing of special interest about
the shrine. It has a figure of Buddha carved out of the solid
rock, but the rest of it has been decorated quite recently, and,
like the entrance porch, seems out of harmony with the spirit
of the place.
There are many more remains of this period in Anuradha-
pura, but we shall now pass on to the Brazen Palace, a building
of somewhat later date —
the end of the second century B.C.
In the interval between Tissa's death and the building of
the Brazen Palace by Dutthagamini, a large number of monas-
teries were erected and the community of monks greatly in-
creased. But even so early as this after the foundation of the
sacred city trouble came in the form of invasion from Southern
//,! ' VI
India. For some years the Tamils held the upper hand, Elara,
one of their princes, usurped the Sinhalese throne, and the
Buddhist cause was in danger of complete annihilation, when
the Sinhalese king Dutthagamini, stirred by religious enthu-
siasm, made a desperate stand and recovered his throne. The
story of the final combat is worthy of our notice as showing
the character of the man who erected the most wonderful of
the Anuradhapura monuments.
It was in b.c 164 that Dutthagamini, having grown weary
of the protracted struggles of his arm)' which for some years
he had led with varying fortune against Elara, challenged that
The duel prince to single combat. Having given orders that no other
person should assail Elara, he mounted his favourite war
elephant, Kandula, and advanced to meet his adversary. Elara
hurled the first spear, which Dutthagamini successfully evaded
and at once made his own elephant charge with his tusks the
elephant of his opponent. After a desperate struggle Elara
and his elephant fell together.
Then followed an act of chivalry on the part of Dutthaga-
mini so remarkable that it has been regarded with admiration
for twenty centuries. He caused Elara to be cremated on the
Death y , Mara s P ot where he fell, and there built a tomb. He further ordained
that the tomb should receive honours, and that no one should
pass it without some mark of reverence and even to this day
;
these injunctions are to some extent respected, and the tomb is

still marked by a huge mound.
With the death of Elara the power of the invaders was

broken, and the heroic Dutthagamini restored to the country
those conditions of peace and prosperity under which Tissa
had been enabled to inaugurate the religious foundations
already referred to. To the further development of these he
now applied himself.
The community of monks had enormously increased with

the popularity of the new religion, and Dutthagamini made t/w Brazen
their welfare his chiefest care, erecting the Loha Pasada, J-ai,nc
known as the Brazen Palace, for their accommodation. This

remarkable building rested qn sixteen hundred monolithic
columns of granite, which are all that now remain ; their
original decoration has disappeared, and we see only that part
of them which has defied both time and a whole series of heretic
invaders. The basement or setting of this crowd of hoary
relics is buried deep in earth that has been for centuries accumu-
lating over the marble floors of the once resplendent halls, and
all that is left to us are these pillars partially entombed,
but still standing about twelve feet out of the ground (see
Plate 165).
The history of this wonderful edifice is fully dealt with in
the native chronicles, whose accuracy as to the main features
is attested in many ways, and not least by the "world of
stone columns " that remain.
The following description is taken from the Mahawansa,
and was probably written about the fifth century a.d. from
records preserved in the monasteries :
—
" This palace was one hundred cubits square and of the
same height. In it there were nine stories, and in each of
them one hundred apartments. All these apartments were
highly finished with silver and the cornices thereof were em-
;
bellished with gems. The flower-ornaments thereof were also

set with gems, and the tinkling festoons were of gold. In this
palace there were a thousand dormitories having windows
with ornaments which were bright as eyes.
The palace did not long remain as originally constructed by
Dutthagamini. In the reign of Sadhatissa, about B.C. 140, the
number of stories was reduced to seven and again, about two
;
centuries later, to five. Its history has been marked by many

vicissitudes, generally involving the destruction of some of its
upper stories. These attacks on the wonderful edifice were not
always due to the iconoclastic zeal of Brahman invaders, but to
a serious diyision in the ranks of the Buddhists themselves.
About the year B.C. 90 a question arose as to the authority of
certain doctrines which one party wished to be included in the
canon. The proposal was regarded as an innovation and
strenuously opposed by the orthodox fraternity, with the result
that those who adhered to the innovation formed themselves
into a rival body known as the Abhayagiriya. Hence the great
Brazen Palace, which had originally been the residence of the
highest ascetics, was dependent for its preservation on the
varying fortunes of its orthodox inhabitants. This division,
which marred the unity of Buddhism in Ceylon for fourteen
centuries, was perhaps at the height of its bitterness when
Anuradhapura Maha Sen came to the throne at the beginning of the third
century. He adopted the heresy above referred to and pulled
down the Brazen Palace in order to enrich the rival monastery
with its treasures. This apostate king, however, afterwards
recanted, and in his penitence he restored the palace once more
to its ancient splendour, and rebuilt all the other monasteries
that he had destroyed.
From the nature of its construction as well as the intrinsic
value of its decorative materials, the Brazen Palace has always
been more exposed to spoliation than the shrines and other
buildings whose colossal proportions astonish us as we wander
through the sacred city.
A more enduring and not less remarkable piece of the work
of Dutthagamini has come down to us. The new religion had
filled its votaries with almost superhuman energy, and only the
verv hills themselves could compare with the buildings which
were the outward expression of their devotion. Foundations
were laid to the depth of one hundred feet and composed of
layers of crystallised stone and plates of iron and copper alter-
nately placed and cemented ; and upon such bases were piled
millions of tons of masonry.
t/ic Ruaimidi We see the remains of one of these stupendous edifices in
the Ruanweli or Gold-dust Dagaba. Its present appearance
from a distance, from which our picture is taken, is that of a
conical shaped hill nearly two hundred feet high, covered with
trees and surmounted by a tiny spire. It is, however, a mass
of solid brickwork (see Plates 166 and 167).
Time and the frequent attacks of enemies have to a great
extent obliterated the original design, but there is sufficient of
the structure still remaining to verify the accounts of the ancient
writers who have transmitted to us full details of the building
as it was erected in the second century B.C. We should not
readily believe these accounts without the evidence of the ruins.
It is as well, therefore, to see what remains before we glance
at the first written story of the dagaba.
The ruins of the eastern portico in the foreground of the
picture at once suggest an entrance of stately proportions.
The pillars are arranged in six parallel rows so that wooden
beams might be laid upon them longitudinally and transversely
for the support of the ornamental open roof which was un-
doubtedly there. The boldly sculptured lions of the left front
give a clue to the style of ornament adopted.
Upon traversing the passage, which we notice is sufficiently
large to admit elephants, we arrive at an extensive court or
platform nearly one hundred feet wide and extending round
the whole dagaba. This is the path used for processions in
which a large number of elephants frequently took part. From
this rises another immense square platform measuring about
165. THE LOHA PASADA OR BRAZEN PALACE.
166. THE RUANWELI DAGABA.

167. THE RUANWELI SHOWING THE EXCAVATION OF THE ELEPHANT WALL.
168. MINIATURE DAGABA ON THE PLATFORM OF THE RUANWELI.

five hundred feet each way and made to appear as if supported Anuradhapura
by about four hundred elephants. These elephants form the
retaining- wall ; they were modelled in brickwork and placed
less than two feet apart only their heads and fore legs appear
; ;
their height is about nine feet. Although all that have been
excavated are in a terribly dilapidated condition (see Plate 167),
there are still evidences here and there of the original treatment
and finish. We learn from the native records that they were
all coated with the hard and durable white enamel, chunam,
and that each had ivory tusks. In protected places portions of
the original surface still remain, and the holes in the jaws
where the tusks were inserted are still visible.
There are also traces of ornamental trappings which were
executed in bold relief they differ considerably on each
;
elephant, suggesting great ingenuity on the part of the

modellers.
These two platforms form the foundation constructed to
sustain the ponderous mass of the solid brick shrine which was
built upon it to the height of two hundred and seventy feet,
with an equal diameter at the base of the dome.
The upper platform from which the dagaba rises covers
an area of about five acres, and is paved with stone slabs these
;
share the general ruin, due more to ruthless destruction than

the ravages of time. We notice that repairs have been effected
by fragments of stone taken from other fine buildings for
;
there are doorsteps, altar slabs, carved stones, of all shapes

and sizes, some incised with curious devices of evident
antiquity, and even huge monoliths from the thresholds of
other buildings have been dragged hither to supply the
destroyed portions of the original paving.
The objects of interest surrounding the dagaba are very
numerous. There are four ornamental altars, and various
parts belonging to them scattered everywhere :carved panels,
pedestals, scrolls, capitals, stone tables,
friezes, elephants'
heads, great statues of Buddhas and kings.
Our illustration (Plate 168) shows how formidable is the
business of excavation. The platforms had been buried to the
depth shown by the heaps of earth that still surround them
and hide the greater portion of the elephant wall. The same
features are observable in the illustration which faces this page.
Here upon the platform we notice in its original position a
miniature dagaba, of which there were probably many placed
around the great shrine as votive offerings. This specimen
with the platform below it is composed of a ponderous mono-
lith, and does not appear to have been disturbed.
In the far distance is a statue with a pillar of stone at the

back of it. This is said to be a statue in dolomite of King;
i go THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Anuradhapura Batiya Tissa I., who came to the throne B.C. ly. It is eight
feet high, much weather-worn, and full of fractures.
Near it are four other statues placed with their backs to
statues the dagaba, three of them representing Buddhas, and the
fourth King Dutthagamini. They originally stood in the
recesses of a building on the platform, and were dug out
during the excavations. They are all sculptured in dolomite
the folds of the priestly robes with their sharp and shallow
flutings are very beautifully executed. They were probably
once embellished with jewels, the pupils of the eyes consisting
of precious stones, and the whole figures being coloured in
exact imitation of life.
The figure on the extreme left is said to be that of the king,
who is wonderfully preserved considering his great antiquity.
The statue is ten feet high, and must have looked very im-
posing in its original state, the jewelled collars being gilt, and
their pearls and gems coloured and polished ; even now the
leatures wear a pleasant expression.
The hall where these figures were unearthed was probably
built specially for their reception. It is close to their present
position, and its threshold is marked by a plain moonstone.
inscription oj Within a lew yards of the statues stands a very fine slab
engraved in old Sinhalese characters. This seems to have
formed part of the wall at the side of the porch of the hall,
and it is still erect between two of the original pillars, being
very firmly fixed in a bed of brickwork. The engraved face
would thus have been inside the portico. Its date is the latter
part of the twelfth century, and it gives some account of
various good deeds of the King Kirti Nissanka, who was
famous for his attention to the repair and maintenance of
religious edifices. After reciting that he " decorated the city
like a city of the gods," it ends with an appeal to future princes
to protect and preserve the wihdres, the people, and the
religion.
To give a complete description of the Ruanweli dagaba
and of the numerous ruined halls, altars and monuments that
form part of or are connected with it would fill a volume at least
as large as the present. We must, however, remark briefly on
a lew more points of special interest.
The three terraces or pasadas round the base of the bell are
about seven feet wide, and were used as ambulatories by the
worshippers. The uppermost terrace is ornamented with fore-
quarters of kneeling elephants to the number of about one
hundred and fifty. These are placed on the outer edge at regu-
lar intervals all round the dagaba. From the terraces the great
hemispherical mass of brickwork was carried to the height of
two hundred and seventy feet, including the tee or small spire.
Its present appearance, as may be seen in plate 167, is a Anuradhapura

shapeless mound covered with trees sprung from stray seeds ;
but beneath those trees are the millions of bricks which were
carefully and religiously laid two thousand years ago.
The lower part of the bell has been restored to some extent
by pious pilgrims who have from time to time expended con-
siderable sums of money upon it but the race that could
;
make these immense shrines what they once were has

vanished, and with it the conditions which rendered such works
possible.
The principal ornaments of the dagaba were the chapels or
altars at the four
cardinal points. All these are in a very
ruinous portions of the friezes carved in quaint
condition,
designs being strewn about, as also are railings, mouldings,
brackets, vases, and sculptures of various kinds. One of these
structures, however, has been restored as far as possible from
the fragments found lying about at the time of its excavation
There are traces here and there of enamel and colour,
especially upon the figure subjects, and it is supposed from
this that the whole surface of the altars was covered with
that wonderfully durable white chunam, and that they were
made attractive to the native eye by the gaudy colouring of
the figures and cornices.
In addition to the interesting architectural features of the
shrine there are numerous inscriptions in old Sinhalese charac-
ters, relating to grants of land and other matters connected
with the dagaba.
Each of several succeeding kings added something to the
decoration, and erected more buildings in the precincts of the
great shrine. It is recorded of King Batiya Tissa, who reigned
between 19 B.C. and 9 a.d. and whose statue near the dagaba
,
we have already noticed, that on one occasion he festooned the

dagaba with jessamine from pedestal to pinnacle and on
;
another he literally buried it in a heap of flowers, which he

kept watered by means of machinery constructed for the pur-
pose. Another king is said to have placed a diamond hoop
upon the spire.
Great wealth was lavished on the structure for many years
after its erection. In later times, when the enemies of
Buddhism obtained possession of the city, the great dagaba
suffered severely on many occasions it was partially destroyed,
;
and again restored when the power of the Sinhalese was

temporarily in the ascendant. The last attempt to destroy it
is said to have taken place in the thirteenth century.
After our somewhat protracted examination of the Ruanweli, Tin

the landscape
we pass from its precincts into one of the open stretches of
park-like land that have been reclaimed from forest and jungle.
The gardens that were once an especially beautiful feature of
ig2 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Anuradhapura the ancient city were but a few years ago overgrown with trees,
and dense thicket had veiled every vestige of brick and stone.
Recent clearings have, however, disclosed numberless remains
which form a unique feature in the landscape. Clusters of
pillars with exquisitely carved capitals, as perfect as if they
had recently left the hands of the sculptor, appear interspersed
with the groups of trees that have been spared for picturesque
effect. Here and there numbers of carved monoliths are lying
prostrate, bearing evidence of wilful destruction. As we
wander through one of these charming glades we are attracted
especially by the group of pillars illustrated in plate 169. In
almost every instance of such groups the ornamental wings on
the landing at the top of the steps are exposed, although the
steps and mouldings of the bases are buried in earth. In the
illustration here given it will be noticed that these wing-stones,
covered with makara and scroll, vie with the carved capitals in
their excellent preservation ; the fabulous monster forming the
upper portion and the lion on the side are still perfect in every
particular.
It is probable that these buildings consisted of an entrance
hall and a shrine, that they were, in fact, the image houses of
the wih&res.
/„/„„„., Another very interesting feature of the cleared spaces is
the large number of stone-built baths or tanks, called
pokunas. There are so many, and they vary so much in
architectural treatment, that they must have added greatly to
the beautiful aspect of the city. The specimen illustrated in
our plate has been restored, and gives a good idea of the
original appearance, although much of the ornamental portion
is missing. It will be noticed that on one side there is a stone-
paved terrace, within which is an inner bath. This inner bath
was doubtless sheltered by a roof supported upon stone pillars,
of which there are several fractured pieces and socket holes
remaining. The inner bath leads into a chamber like the
opposite one visible in the picture. The walls of these chambers
are beautifully worked single stones, and the tops are covered
by enormous slabs of a similar kind, measuring twelve by
seven feet.
TheK-uttam.
The most interesting example yet discovered is the Kuttam-
poknna pokuna or Twin-bath (see Plate 171). This consists of a couple
of tanks placed end to end, measuring in all about two hundred
and twenty by fifty feet. The left side of the picture serves to
show the condition in which the baths were when discovered,
but on the right we see that some considerable restoration has
been effected. The materials are generally found quite com-
plete,although dislodged and out of place.
Our photograph was taken in January, before the end of
the rainy season, and in consequence the tank appears too full
169. REMAINS OF IMAGE HOUSES.
170. A POKUNA.
171. THE KUTTAM-POKUNA.
172. THE ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.

of water to admit of the structure being seen at any consider- Anuradhapura

able depth, and some verbal description is therefore necessary.
The sides are built in projecting tiers of large granite blocks
so planned as to form terraces all round the tank at various
depths, the maximum depth being about twenty feet. Hand-
some flights of steps descend to the terraces, some of them
having carved scrolls on the wings. The bold mouldings of
the parapet give an exceedingly fine effect to the sides. There
are signs of rich carvings in many parts of the structure, but
every portion is too much defaced to trace the designs.
There is something very weird about these remnants of
ancient luxury hidden in the lonely forest. In the dry season
of the year, when the ruined terraces of the Kuttam-pokuna can
be seen to the depth of sixteen feet, this scene is one of the
most impressive in Anuradhapura.
We cannot help reflecting, too, that the famous baths of
the Roman emperors were constructed contemporaneously with
these, and that while those of Caracalla and Diocletian, being
built of brick, have crumbled now beyond repair, the pic-
turesque and elegant baths of Dutthagamini, with their
beautiful terraces and stairways of granite, can with little
trouble be restored to their pristine condition.
It is impossible to arrive at the exact purpose of the various
forms of baths found at Anuradhapura. Some were doubtless
attached to the monasteries and used exclusively for ceremonial
ablutions some were private baths of the royal family others
; ;
were possibly for public use, and many served as receptacles of

the drinking water of the inhabitants. All of them were fed
from artificial lakes outside the city.
We have already referred to the usurpation of the throne King
H'alazambaJiu
of Ceylon by the Tamil invader, Elara, and to the combat with and the
Dutthagamini, which resulted in the defeat and death of the Mhayagmya
usurper. Strange as it may appear, the victor, who had merely
regained his birthright, was constrained to make atonement
for bloodshed as well as the natural thank-offering for his
victory, and to this we owe the building of the great monastery
of the Brazen Palace and the Ruanweli dagaba. We find a
curious repetition of history in the occurrences that took place
about thirty vears after his death, when the old encmv again
got the upper hand. The king, Walagambahu, was deposed,
and the usurper, Pulahatta, assumed the sovereignty. Fifteen
more years of alien rule ensued, during which no less than
four of the usurpers were murdered by their successor, until
Walagambahu vanquished the fifth, Dathiya. He then pro-
ceeded to raise a monastery and shrine that should eclipse in
magnitude those constructed by Dutthagamini under similar
circumstances.
Anuradhapura of the monastery have vanished, save only
The buildings
the boundary walls and the stumps of its pillars, which are
The found in large numbers; but the Abhayagiriya dagaba (Plate
[bhayetgiriya
.
172), of its kind the greatest monument in the world, has defied
all the forces of destruction, both of man and nature, and
although abandoned for many centuries, during which it re-
ceived its vesture of forest, there is still a very large proportion
of the original building left. The native annals give as the
measurement of the Abhayagiriya a height of four hundred and
five feet, or fifty feet higher than St. Paul's Cathedral, with
three hundred and sixty feet as the diameter of the dome. The
height is now greatly reduced, but the base covers about eight
acres, and sufficiently attests the enormous size of its super-
structure. The lower part of the dome is buried under the
debris of bricks which must have been hurled from above in
infidel attempts at destruction. Beneath this mass the remains
of the numerous edifices, altars, and statues, which surrounded
the dagaba, are for the most part concealed, but excavations at
various periods have disclosed some ruins of considerable in-
terest, notably the altars at the four cardinal points, one of
The altars which is visible in our illustration (Plate 172). These altars
are very similar to those of the Ruanwcli dagaba, but much
larger and more elaborate in detail, being about fifty feet in
breadth. Many of the carvings are in remarkable preservation
considering their vast age and the perils they have experienced.
King Malta The next group of ruins to which we come belong to the
third century, when Maha Sen, on the recantation of his heresy,
built another enormous dagaba and a series of smaller religious
edifices, of which there are some very interesting remains.
This monarch ascended the throne a.d. 275, and died a.d. 302.
His support of the schismatics who had seceded from the
orthodox faith is attributable to a tutor under whose influence
he came by the secret machinations of the party. The result
of this was that upon coming to the throne he persecuted those
monastic orders that turned a deaf ear to the new doctrines.
Hundreds of their buildings were razed to the ground, including
the famous Brazen Palace, and the materials were used for the
erection of shrines and monasteries for the new sect. When,
however, after the lapse of some years, the old faith still held
its place in the affections of the people and his throne was
endangered by general discontent, he returned to the faith of
his fathers, restored all the buildings that he had destroyed,
and reinstated the members of every foundation that he had
overthrown.
jeimmnarama The inception of the Jetawanarama monastery and dagaba
is attributed to the middle period of this monarch's reign in
the following quotation from the Mahawansa :
—
" The king having had two brazen images or statues cast
placed them in the hall of the great bo tree and in spite ol Anuradhapim'i
;
remonstrance, in his infatuated partiality for the thera Tissa

of the Abhayagiriya fraternity —
a hypocrite, a dissembler, a
—
companion of sinners, and a vulgar man constructed the Jeta-
wanarama vihara for him, within the consecrated bounds of
"
the garden called Joti, belonging to the Mahavihara.
The Jetawanarama thus begun before the recantation of j, /„;,;, „«r„»ia
the raja was not completed till the reign of his son Kitsiri
Maiwan.
In our photograph may be seen the remains of this great
shrine across the glistening waters of the Basawak Kulam
from a distance of about two miles (see Plate 173). The
Basawak Kulam is one of the lakes constructed as tanks for the
supply ol water to the city. Although we shall have occasion
to refer to these tanks later, we may here notice that this one
is said to be the oldest and dates from B.C. 437. The lofty
dome, which sixteen centuries ago stood gleaming from its
ivory-polished surface above the trees and spires which dotted
the landscape, now stands a desolate mountain of ruined brick-
work, over which the forest has crept in pity of its forlorn
appearance. Its original height is open to question. It is
said to have been three hundred and fifteen feet, but at present
it is no more than two hundred and fifty. Like the other
dagaba already described it was restored at various periods,
and its original outline may have been altered. The spire
which still crowns the dome was probably added when the
dagaba was restored by King Parakrama Bahu in the eleventh
century. Sir Emerson Tennent's pithy remarks upon this
monument cannot be overlooked by any writer on Anuradha-
pura, and must be reproduced here :
" The solid mass of masonry in this vast mound is pro-

digious. Its diameter is three hundred and sixty feet, and its
present height (including the pedestal and spire) two hundred
and forty-nine feet so that the contents of the semi-circular
;
dome of brickwork and the platform of stone seven hundred

and twenty feet square and fifteen feet high exceed twenty
millions of cubic feet. Even with the facilities which modern
invention supplies for economising labour, the building of such
a mass would at present occupy five hundred bricklayers from
six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of at least
a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise eight
thousand houses, each with twenty feet frontage, and these
would form thirty streets half a mile in length. They would
construct a town the size of Ipswich or Coventry they would
;
line an ordinary railway tunnel twenty miles long, or form a

wall one foot in thickness and ten feet in height, reaching from
London to Edinburgh. Such are the dagabas of Anuradhapura,
structures whose stupendous dimensions and the waste and
Anuradhapura misapplication of labour lavished on them arc hardly outdone
even in the instance of the Pyramids of Egypt."
/rtatx'nnarama In close proximity to the great Jetawanarama dagaba are
live buildings in one enclosure measuring two hundred feet
square. In the centre stood the principal pavilion, the ruins of
which are shown in plate 174. At the four corners of the
enclosure were the subsidiary edifices, now only traceable by
a few stone pillars that mark the site of each. Only so much
of the central pavilion as is seen in this plate has been ex-
cavated, but it suffices to show some exquisite carving and to
give some idea of the importance of the building. The hand-
some stylobate measures sixty-two by forty-two feet, and had
a beautifully moulded base of finely-wrought granite. The
superstructure has entirely disappeared. The flight of steps at
the entrance needs very few words of description, as it can be
seen in our illustration (Plate 174). The landing is a fine
monolith thirteen feet long and eight wide. On either side of
the landing is a grotesque figure. A coping skirts the landing
on each side, and terminates in a rectangular block ornamented
with a panel containing a seated lion beautifully carved in high
relief. This is one of the best pieces of sculpture we shall meet
with. The strength of the beast is well brought out, while the
uplifted paw and the look of defiance are most suggestive. But
as remarkable as the skill of the craftsman is its preservation,
exposed and uninjured during so many centuries. The steps
are ornamented by squatting figures of men who appear to be
supporting the tread these, too, are well carved the hands
; ;
are pressed upon the knees; the waist is girdled, and a jewelled
band falls over the shoulders from the head waving curls are
;
flowing ; their ears, arms, elbows, wrists and ankles are

adorned with jewelled rings and bangles. The pilasters on
cither side of each figure are carved in similar minute detail
and represent bundles of leaves.
The moonstone At the foot of the steps lies the best preserved moonstone
yet discovered. The moonstone, it may be observed, is almost
peculiar to Sinhalese architecture, and is a semicircular slab
forming the doorstep to the principal entrance of a building.
Its ornamentation varies considerably, as may be seen on com-
paring plate 174 with plate 175. In our specimen (Plate 174)
the innermost fillet contains a floral scroll of lilies next comes
;
a row of the hansa, or sacred goose, each carrying in its beak

a lotus-bud with two small leaves then comes a very handsome
;
scroll of flowers and leaves ;after this is a procession of

elephants, horses, lions and bulls; and, lastly, a border of rich
foliage. All this carving is as sharp and well defined as if it
were fresh from the sculptor's chisel, and this in spite of an
interval of sixteen hundred years.
Guard stones Guard stones and wing stones doubtless formed part of the
173. THE JETAWANARAMA ACROSS THE BASAWAK KULAM.
174. MOONSTONE AND STEPS.

175. MOONSTONE GUARD STONES MAKARA TORANA AND STEPS.
176. DALADA MALIGAWA.

decoration of these handsome steps, but they have entirely Anuradhapura

disappeared. The dvarpal stones which lace one another on the
landing- are not so well preserved as the steps, owing to their
being exposed while the lower portion of the structure was
buried.
The everywhere teeming with ruins awaiting dis-
forest is
covery and excavation. Sometimes the only sign of an impor-
tant edifice is a single pillar or group of pillars standing above
the ground, or perhaps a portion of some stairway which has
not yet become entirely hidden by earth. A few years ago
Mr. S. M. Burrows discovered the most perfect door-guardians
and flight of steps yet unearthed by a very slight indication of
the kind referred to. These form the subject of our illustra-
tion, plate 175. I quote Mr. Burrows's own words in refer-
ence to them from his Archaeological report " The extreme tip
:
of what appeared to be a dorapaluwa (door-guardian stone),

' '
and some fine pillars at a little distance from it, invited excava-
tion. The result was highly satisfactorv. A vihara of the
measuring about eighty feet by sixty, was gradually
first class,
unearthed, with perhaps the finest flight of stone steps in the
ruins. The moonstone,' though very large, presents the lotus
'
only, without the usual concentric circles of animal figures

but one at least of the door-guardian stones, standing over five
feet high, is unrivalled in excellence of preservation and delicacy
of finish. Every detail, both of the central figure and its two
attendants, stands out as clear and perfect as when it was first
carved ; for the stone had fallen head downwards, and was
buried under seven or eight feet of earth."
We have already referred to Kitsiri Maiwan I., who finished '/'/„ Dalada
the great Jetawanarama begun by his father, Maha Sen. In ATetliramn
the ninth year of his reign, a.d. 311, the famous tooth-relic of
Buddha was brought to Ceylon by a princess who in time of
war is said to have fled to Ceylon for safety with the tooth con-
cealed in the coils of her hair. The Dalada Maligawa, or
Temple of the Tooth, was then built for its reception within
the Thuparama enclosure. The ruins of this famous temple
are well worthy of inspection. The building appears to have
consisted of an entrance hall, an ante-chamber, and a relic-
chamber. Our illustration shows the moulded jambs and lintel
of the entrance to the ante-chamber still in situ. The prin-
cipal chamber is interesting for its curiously carved pillars,
the heads of which are worked into a design often supposed to
represent the sacred tooth. At the principal entrance there is
a handsome flight of stone steps, at the foot of which is a richlv
sculptured moonstone and a dvarpal on either side. The origin
of the Perahara festivals, still held annually at Kandy, dates
from the erection of this temple from which the tooth was upon
festival occasions borne through the streets of Anuradhapura on
Anuradhapura the back of a white elephant which was always kept at the
temple for the purpose. During the invasions of the Malabars,
when the temple was more than once destroyed, the sacred relic
was on several occasions removed for safety and thus preserved,
but at length, in the fourteenth century, it was seized and
carried off to India. The Sinhalese king Parakrama Bahu III.,
however, by proceeding to India successfully negotiated its
ransom and brought it back again. There is a story of its
having been taken and destroyed by the Portuguese at a later
date, and although Europeans consider the evidences of this
final mishap as historical, the natives are satisfied that the
original relic still exists in the temple at Kandy and regard it
with the greatest veneration.
Toitmiia The native annals give many particulars of the streets of
the ancient city, but considering how deeply buried are the
foundations of buildings traces of the streets are difficult to
find. There is, however, one of considerable interest at Tolu-
wila, a couple of miles east from the centre of the city.
Here for seweral hundred yards the way is paved, and on
either side there are remains of many buildings. At intervals
where the road rises and falls there are flights of steps. In
the vicinity there are a good many indications of wthdres and
a small dagaba. It is very likely that this was within the
sacred part of the ancient city.
Eor a fuller description of the ruins of Anuradhapura the
reader isreferred to " The Ruined Cities of Ceylon," by H. W.
Cave and guide books by John Still and S. M. Burrows.
;
The facilities afforded by the Ceylon Government Railway

will now enable thousands from every country to explore
Anuradhapura, which has at length taken its rightful place
amongst the most alluring monuments of the ancient world.
NORTHERN LINE ITINERARY RESUMED.

Anuradhapura to Kankesanturai.
Madawachchi —
Madawachchi (97m. 31c). The railway here approaches
and passes over the main road which leads to the Giant's Tank
and Mannar. The station takes its name from the nearest
village, which is situated at the junction of the Jaffna and
Mannar roads three miles distant. At the time of writing
(1910) a railway extension of imperial importance is being
constructed from Madawachchi towards India, and comDletion
isanticipated in 191 1 or 1912. Sixty-six miles in length, it runs
westerly through the jungle past the Giant's Tank, and over
a series of bridges to the island of Mannar, which it traverses
to its extreme westerly point at Talaimannar. Our Indian
neighbour, the South Indian Railwav, meanwhile is also
approaching us, by constructing a viaduct and swirig bridge
over the Paumben Channel, between the mainland and the Northern
Line
Indian-owned island of Rameswaram (famous all over the
East for its saered Hindu temple), across which a railway line
already stretches to Dhanishkodi on its eastern end. By these
important works India and Ceylon will be brought within some
twenty miles of one another by rail, the intervening gap being
for the present " bridged " by a comfortable ferry service in
assured smooth water, as the boats will proceed " northabout
or " southabout " of the " Adam's Bridge " (i.e. the series of
shoals and islets between Rameswaram and Mannar Islands)
according to the season, be it north-east or south-west mon-
soon. It is possible that this intervening space of twenty
miles may one day be crossed by embankments and bridges,
as there are no insurmountable engineering difficulties in the
way. The Ceylon Railway purposes running carriages
of the most modern type on this service, including sleeping
and refreshment saloons, and ere a couple of years have passed
a much more comfortable route for travellers between India and
Ceylon will have been provided than the present dreaded sea
route between Tuticorin and Colombo.
The Giant's Tank, which is thirty-five miles from
Madawachchi, is one of the most stupendous of the ancient
irrigation works in the island, having a retaining bund three
hundred feet broad, which originally extended for fifteen miles.
There is a rest-house at the tank, as also at the village of
Madawachchi.
177 ANCIENT SPILL BY WHICH THE OVERFLOW OF A RIVER IS DIVERTED TO THE GIANT S TANK.
(Photograph by Oiven If. Hemiian, Esq.)
Northern
" lc
—
Vavuniya (iiim. 77c). Upon nearing Vavuniya we arrive
in the Northern Province, the part of Ceylon which has for
Vavuniya centuries been known as the Wanni, comprising' that portion
of the island which lies between Jaffna in the north, Mannar on
the west coast, and Trincomalee on the east altogether about
;
2,000 square miles. The country is generally flat and covered

with thick forest and jungle, save where masses of black rock
rear their gaunt heads above the foliage. Nevertheless here
and there a few hills lend a welcome relief to the monotony, as
do here the Madukanda range, which forms a background of
beauty to the Vavuniya tank. For nine months of the year,
January to September, it is the driest part of the island, and
cultivation depends on the numerous irrigation tanks. Only
one perennial fresh water lake exists in the whole province, and
this is said to be partly artificial. The rivers flow only during
the rains from October to December; at other times they are
mere beds of dry sand.
Tkejtcoph The inhabitants are mostly Tamils, with a sprinkling of
Sinhalese and Moormen. Their condition is very low in the
social scale. The villages consist of a few enclosed plots or
courtyards, each containing several rude huts built with mud
walls of about four feet high and a single door, to enter which
it is necessary to stoop very low. There are no windows, and
amid the semi-darkness of the interior the family reclines upon
the mud floor or at best upon mats, the whole dwelling being
innocent of furniture. Food consisting of kurrakan (a kind of
millet), or paddy, is kept in a receptacle constructed with sticks
interlaced in basket fashion and coated with mud.
The courtyard is furnished with other necessaries to exist-
ence in the shape of earthenware pots and mortars for pounding
grain, and ploughs, and is inhabited by poultry and the
ubiquitous pariah dog. In the more prosperous villages the
squalid dwelling is surrounded by a wealth of fruit trees,
oranges, limes, and plantains. Magnificent tamarind trees of
great age are also plentiful. The people exist in great poverty,
and apparently without any ambition to better their lot, and
such is their indolence that the offer of good wages will not
stimulate them to the slightest exertion. A paternal govern-
ment exacts from them a certain amount of communal labour
in connection with the irrigation of their lands, but even this
they frequently evade until compelled by prosecution under the
ordinances that have been framed for the common good. This
lack of energy, however, which is in striking contrast to
the industry of their brethren in the Jaffna peninsula, calls
for sympathy, since it is bred of the poverty-stricken con-
ditions that have existed in these districts during the centuries
that have passed since their ancestors devastated the once
fair province and left it to decay. They are the miserable
remnant of conquerors who knew not how to colonise, and Northern

Llne
their indolence is due not so much to mere habit as to their
physical degeneration.
The people of the Wanni were doubtless in a more flourish- 27«"'«m*
ing condition before the invasion of the European, when they
had their chieftains, the vassals of the Tamil rajahs, who held
court at Jaffna. Their impoverishment probably began when
the Portuguese took Jaffna and relentlessly exacted tribute from
them by force of arms. The Dutch followed with further
devastation in their train, but still failed in the task of subjuga-
tion. In these continued struggles irrigation works were
neglected, agriculture was abandoned, a general decay set in,
and jungle crept over the land. As time went on the wild
and dangerous denizens of the forest increased enormously at
the expense of man, who retreated to any place that promised
security, till at length, when the British took possession, the
first efforts in the direction of amelioration took the form of
the destruction of the elephants and leopards.
But it must not be supposed that there is no prospect of
improvement in the condition of the poor villager in this un-
fruitful part of the country. His lot is a difficult problem to
the Government, but is nevertheless its constant care. It is as
necessary to provide means as to inculcate the lessons of self-
help, and both arc being done. The Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis,
who was in charge of the Northern Province for a considerable
time, says :
" With all their faults the Yanni people are an
easy people to deal with, and one cannot help liking them.
They are hospitable and not disobliging. Some of their ideas
are verv primitive. Government, as represented by the
Assistant Agent, is all-powerful, and they go with their com-
plaints to him on every conceivable subject."
There is game of all kinds, large and small, throughout this Came
province, but not so abundant as half a century ago. ft is,
however, a somewhat difficult country for the sportsman.
Elephants in small numbers inhabit all parts. Deer, pig,
bears, and leopards are not easily bagged, owing to the
widespread density of the forests and jungle. The natives
shoot large game to a great extent at night from ambushes
in the vicinity of water holes, an excellent means of ridding
themselves of bears by whom they are liable to be attacked,
and of leopards who destroy their cattle but unfortunately
;
the slaughter is extended to other game, with the result

that it is fast disappearing. The birds that are plentiful
include pigeons, hawks, partridge, quail, egret, hornbill, teal,
flamingos, and peafowl. Crocodiles arc large and very
numerous in the tanks and lagoons, often wandering far from
the water in search of food, and sometimes satisfying their
hunger with human flesh.
Northern Mankulam (140m. 2ic). —Mankulam is in the very centre
of the Northern Province. It is the nearest point of the rail-
Mankulam wa y to Mullaittivu, the seat of administration for the district,
which is thirty miles to the cast. There is very good sport of
all kinds to be obtained from Mankulam, and it is the most
convenient spot for the sportsman, there being four rest-houses
within seven miles and a regular bullock-coach service with
Mullaittivu. The district is, however, very sparsely inhabited
by man. The land is fertile and admirably adapted for the
cultivation of tobacco. Mankulam station affords an instance
of trade following the railway, cart-loads of dried fish being
brought daily from Mullaittivu on the east coast and despatched
by rail to feed the coolies of the tea estates in the mountain
districts.
Paranthan —
Paranthan (163m. 6c). This station is principally used for
the despatch of timber. Satinwood, for which the district is
famous, is the chief freight. There is no local accommodation,
and the station is five miles from the village whose name
it bears.
Elephant
Pass
—
Elephant Pass (168m. 71c). There is a natural curiosity
as to the origin of the name Elephant Pass, and the explana-
tions given arc plausible enough. Jaffna is a peninsula joined
to the mainland by a long causeway, which at one time was a
shallow ford. By this ford herds of wild elephants were in the
habit of visiting Jaffna during Julv and August, the ripening
season of the palmyra fruit. Palmyra palms abound here, and
the elephant is particularlv fond of the fruit, which grows in
luxuriant clusters, each of which is a good cooly load. If a
sufficiency of fruit had not fallen from the mature trees the
elephants would pull down the younger plants for the sake of
their tender leaves. This is the theory adopted by Tennent,
but it is equally reasonable to attribute the name to the use
made of this ford by the natives in bringing elephants from
the mainland to the fort as tribute to the Portuguese and
Dutch, who shipped them to Indian markets.
There no railway station at Elephant Pass, but the train
is
stops for passengers. There is a quaint and picturesque old
building at the edge of the lagoon, facing the sea on
one side and the lagoon on the other, which was once a
Dutch fort. Formerly it was a rest-house in the davs before
the advent of the railway, but it is now closed to the public and
converted to a " circuit bungalow " for the Government Agent
of the Northern Province. By the courtesy of that officer it
is at times lent for temporary occupation to those who desire
a short residence in the vicinity and who are prepared to bring
their own equipment, servants and provisions. Duck-shootino-
and fishing can be indulged in to any extent, and the salubritv
of the place is beyond question.
Pallai (176m. 54c). — In approaching Pallai we become Northern

aware that the whole character ofcountry and its in-
the
habitants have suddenly changed. Orderly cultivation takes Pallai
the place of jungle and forest, and a large, healthy and in-
dustrious population succeeds to the indolent and degenerate
peasantry who have aroused our pity during our journey
through their poverty-stricken districts. Pallai has a popula-
tion of five thousand, ten Roman Catholic churches, and one
of the Church Missionary Society curiously the latter institu-
;
tion has seven schools to three of the Roman Catholics. The

coconut is again seen flourishing here, and the large extent of
its cultivation is evidenced in the railway freight of copra,
240 tons being despatched to Colombo alone during the month
of my visit. Pottery is also amongst the manufactures.
—
Kodikamam (185m. 77c). This station serves the important Kodikamam
town of Point Pedro, ten miles distant and the northernmost
port in Ceylon. There is a daily coach service between the
two places.
Point Pedro is almost the extreme northern point of Ceylon.
It cannot boast of a harbour, but the coral reef which guards the
shore affords shelter and a safe anchorage. The little town is
neat and trim. We notice at once that care is bestowed on
the upkeep of roads, bungalows, and gardens, betokening' the
presence of an industrious population. It derives its import-
ance from the circumstance that the town of Jaffna, on the
western side of the peninsula, can never be approached by
ships within some miles, owing to the way in which the water
shoals towards the coast, while in the south-west monsoon
ships of eight or ten feet draft cannot come near enough to
receive and discharge cargo at this port. At such a time Point
Pedro and Kankesanturai, although open roadsteads, are in-
valuable anchorages.
Chavakachcheri (190m. 41c.).— As we approach this town Chavakach.
cherl
the surprising neatness of garden culture attracts our attention.
The villages are numerous, and disclose a closely-packed popu-
lation, and the roads everywhere are in perfect condition.
Large groves of the palmyra palm take the place of the coco-
nut which flourishes further south. Tons of eggs are amongst
the articles of food constantly despatched to Colombo, the
railway having opened up the distant markets to the industrious
Tamils, with the effect of raising prices locally, but at the same
time contributing considerably to the wealth of the poultry
farmer. The Americans have chosen Jaffna as a field for
missionary effort, and two of their churches are in this village,
the population of which is 3,500.
Navatkuli (195m. 71c). — Navatkuli possesses similar Navatkuii
characteristics to those of the preceding station, from which
it is but five miles distant.
Northern
—
Jaffna (200m. 24c). Jaffna, the capital of the Northern
Province and the seat of its administration, is an extensive and
Jaffna
well ordered town of about 35,000 inhabitants. Its climate is
warm, equable, and dry. The Dutch, who adopted the penin-
sula as one of their chief settlements, regarded it as particularly
healthy, an opinion which is endorsed by its present rulers.
It is especially beneficial in the cure of lung diseases, and
should, now that it has become accessible by rail, prove a useful
sanatorium for those who need open-air treatment. At present
it possesses too little accommodation for the visitor, there being
only one hostelry —

the rest-house —
and that is in a warm situa-
tion, but it is spacious and comfortable, and suffices for short
visits.
Palmyra Agriculture the chief occupation of the inhabitants.
is The
i ultivation
palmyra palm is once the most conspicuous and the most
at
beautiful feature of the landscape. The traveller will especially
admire those forests of this palm which have increased at
such different periods that the crowns of broad fan-like leaves
rise in tiers from the foreground, young ones of ten feet,
receding in deep belts of thirty, fifty, and seventy feet
high, backed by the mature forest reaching one hundred or
more.
Tobacco, although it does not supply the cultivator directly
with all the necessaries of life as the palmyra does, is next in
importance, and economically is the most valuable of all the
products of Jaffna, there being upwards of ten thousand acres
in cultivation, yielding about seven million pounds per annum.
The quality is coarse, strong, and full flavoured. It is not
such as to find favour with Europeans, but is thoroughly
grateful to the taste of the natives of both Ceylon and India.
Most of it is exported to the mainland. Attempts have
frequently been made to grow leaf of more delicate aroma, and
with some success, but it does not suit the local market, and
therefore finds little favour with the Tamil grower, who has not
the spirit of enterprise or the ambition necessary to successfully
compete with the purveyors of the white man's cigar. The
Jaffna weed is pre-eminently the natives' fancy, and is likely to
retain its hold when the large expanse of uncultivated land of
the Northern Province, through which we have passed on our
way to Jaffna, has been reclaimed for growing tobacco for the
Western markets. It is certain that the Jaffna Tamil must
sooner or later extend his boundaries, for practically every inch
of the peninsula is under cultivation, and the population is
already too dense. With the new railway facilities he will
infallibly spread southward, and as a born agriculturist he
will obtain from the soil whatever of profit it will yield.
Nevertheless the question of extending the tobacco fields is
not a simple one, since the quantity of coarse and pungent
178. TOBACCO.
179. THE METHOD OF IRRIGATING THE TOBACCO FIELDS.
O
180 DUTCH CHURCH AT JAFFNA.
181. DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA.

tobacco grown for the local and Indian market already suffices, Northern
and the fine and delicate qualities requited in the more distant
markets demand patient and careful experiment. In this, J affna
however, the Government will lend its scientific aid through
the agency of the Department of Botany and Agriculture.
Irrigation, in which the native cultivator cannot easily take
the initiative, except in the hill country, has perhaps more
than anything else restrained the Jaffnese. On the peninsula
it is an easy matter, because an unlimited supply of water is
obtainable from never-failing wells.

The irrigation of the tobacco fields, as well as that of the {;
the Ma,
extensive fruit and flower gardens which everywhere abound, fields
is primitive and peculiar. Water is obtained exclusively from
the wells, and it is raised after sunset by labourers in the
following manner : —The well sweep, a horizontal lever in the
form of a log of wood about fifteen feet long, is so attached to
a high post that it will act like the see-saw beloved of village
children in Europe ;a woven basket of palmyra leaves is at-
tached to the end of the lever over the well. A couple of coolies
then play see-saw by walking to and fro on the log, making the
basket descend and return again full of water by this useful
kind of sentry-go. Thousands of coolies draw water during
the night, and others distribute it over the fields and gardens.
Sometimes one cooly is sufficient for the lever. Another
labourer, generally a woman, stands near and directs the
basket in its ascent, and empties it into the necessary channel
by which it is conducted to the plants.
We are amazed no less at the orderly and neat cultivation
than at its variety. Every kind of "curry-stuff" seems to
grow in Jaffna, which also produces the best fruits of the island.
A large export trade is done in them, which is paid for by the
importation of rice. Dry grains are easily grown but rice,
;
which requires much water, is unsuited to the soil and climate,

and is therefore not much cultivated on the peninsula.
The fields are fenced in by palings formed of the middle
ribs of palmyra leaves, or by such plants as aloes and cactus,
which effectually keep out intruders. In no other part of
Ceylon will the visitor see such fine crops of brinjals, chillies,
ginger, gourds, melons, yams, sweet potatoes, and arrowroot.
There is no town in Ceylon which still bears on its features
the impress of the Dutch occupation so completely as does
Jaffna. This is doubtless owing to the architecture of its most
—
prominent buildings the Fort and the bungalows. The Fort
is built of coral, and shows no sign of decay at the present dav.
Some idea of the masonry can be gathered from our little
picture (Plate 181). Within its enclosure are several fine
buildings : a massive church in the form of a Greek cross, the
Queen's House, occupied by the Governor of the colony upon
Northern official visits, Government offices and police quarters. There
are nowvery few Dutch Presbyterians resident in Jaffna, and
TIw old
Dutch church
in consequence the church has become disused and its furni-
ture removed. The size of the church and the large number
of tombs of Dutch officials testify to the importance of Jaffna
in the Dutch period. Other remains of Dutch architecture in
Jaffna worthy of the visitor's attention are the buildings in
Main Street, where the gables and verandahs will especially
claim notice. In this street is a house, now owned and
occupied by a Tamil member of the bar, which contains
some elaborately carved doors of massive character with
finely engraved brass plates and hinges, bearing witness, in
the sumptuous appointments of the Dutch houses, to the con-
trast between the earlier colonisation and that of the present
day, when the modern houses contain scarcely any suggestion
of the home country, and are obviously regarded by their
occupants as a temporary residence and not as a permanent
home, a difference perhaps attributable to the steamship, which
has brought the East and West, in time, so near together.
There are also many remains of the earlier Portuguese
occupation worthy the attention of the visitor, notably the fine
ruined church and monastery on the Kavts road near the
eighth milestone from Jaffna. The drive is a most pleasant
one, and as comfortable carriages can be readily hired at
Jaffna it should not be missed. Another Portuguese ruin of
an equally interesting character will be found at Achchaveli,
eleven miles from Jaffna on the Point Pedro road. This
is an excellent drive to take for the inspection of the tobacco
fields.
The visitorcan make himself very comfortable at Jaffna,
especially from December to February, when the temperature
is moderate. The rest-house is not all that could be desired in
such a large town, but it faces an open park-like space with
fine avenues. The town generally gives a favourable im-
pression. Its bungalows are spacious, well-built, and clean
its streets are wide and well-tended, while its gardens and
commons are so well kept as to suggest that there are no idle
folk amongst the inhabitants. In fact, everyone is very busy
at Jaffna, and we find that about as much work is done
thoroughly there for one rupee as is half done in Colombo for
double the amount.
Wehave referred to the race that inhabits Jaffna as one of
agriculturists but we also find industrious artisans working in
;
the carpentry, jewellery, and other trades. The goldsmiths

arc ingenious, and have formed very distinct styles and patterns
that arc peculiar to them. Their bangles, brooches, chains,
and rings are beautiful in design and workmanship, while their
tools are of the most primitive order and few in number.
182. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA.
183. JAFFNA STATION.

2i 4 THE CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY
Northern
Line
Chunakam (206m. 14c). — Chunakam is the half-way station
between the town of Jaffna and the terminus of the railway on
Chunakam the northern shore. There is no accommodation for the visitor,
who will merely pass through on his trip to Kankesanturai.
Between Jaffna and this place may be seen in its greatest
variety and profusion every species of agriculture with which
the Tamil has enriched the peninsula.
Kankesan =
turai
Kankesanturai (211m. 18c). —
Kankesanturai is the
northern terminus. Here the visitor will find comfortable
quarters and an invigorating sea breeze at the rest-house.
The chief features of the quiet little port to-day are the light-
house and the remains of the old fort that has been lashed
by the surf for four centuries.
As we dwell upon the striking scenes that the little peninsula
has afforded us, and contrast them in our minds with the wild
and uncultivated lands which we have seen further south, we
cannot resist the conclusion that the possession of economic
qualities is, after all, to be preferred to scenery.
134 ENTRANCE TO THE DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA.

CHAPTER X
THE KELANI VALLEY
Where in olden times the Kandyan kings were wont to Keiani Valley
descend from their mountain fastnesses and give battle to the Theohhn
European invader a narrow-gauge railway now creeps along
a romantic and beautiful valley. In those days travelling
facilities were limited to jungle paths and dug-out ferry boats ;
cultivation was sparse but nature was bountiful, and among

her many gifts was the wild cinnamon which aroused the
greed and avarice of the foreigner. For this he fought, and
it was here in the valley of the Keiani that the greatest
struggles with the Kandyans took place. The country between
Colombo and Yatiyantota is full of historical associations, and
many legends lend their quota of interest to the rugged land-
scape. But the charms of romance have now yielded to the
demand of commerce. Where a few years ago the life and
occupations of the people were absolutely primitive and tillage
was limited to native methods, there are now thirty thousand
acres of tea, ten thousand of rubber and a railway.
In spite of this great extension of the area of cultivation Attractions
and of means of transport, the attractions of scenery and the °f sc ">*>y
quaintness of native customs are very little diminished, and
the tourist or visitor will not have seen all the best part of
Ceylon until he has made the acquaintance of this famous
district. Even the soldiers who were engaged in fierce warfare
with the Kandyans, and who experienced all the trials and
hindrances of marching in a tropical country without roads,
were enchanted by the singular beauty of the country and
described it in their journals in terms of glowing enthusiasm.
The same fascinating landscape of undulating lowlands and The natives
lovely river views is there, but the modern traveller finds not
only excellent roads, but always a courteous, gentle and con-
tented population. In no other district of Ceylon is Sinhalese
rural life more full of interest. The primitive methods of the
natives in the manufacture of quaint pottery, their curious
system of agriculture and the peculiar phases of their social
life, are not less interesting than the beautiful country in which
they live.
215
Kelani Valley The railway runs parallel to the river but at a distance of
some miles to the south until Karawanella is reached there- ;
fore he who wishes to see the river and the villages of Kadu-
wella and Hanwella must make a special excursion from
Colombo by horse carriage or motor car or he can take the
;
train to Waga and drive to Hanwella.

Kaduweiia Kaduwella is charmingly situated, and, like almost every
village of importance in the Kelani Valley, has a delightful
rest-house, which is built on a steep red rock almost over-
hanging the river, and commanding one of many delightful
vistas where the noble Kelani meanders in and out, and dis-
plays its curving banks, always covered with the richest foliage.
Here one may sit and watch the quaint barges and rafts as
they pass, laden with produce for Colombo, or groups of
natives and cattle crossing
all day long by the ferry close by.
Cave-Temple There is a famous Cave-Temple of the Buddhists at
Kaduwella, very picturesquely situated under an enormous
granite rock in the midst of magnificent trees. It has a fine
pillared hall, the bare rock forming the wall at the back. The
usual colossal image of Buddha is carved in the solid granite,
and is a good specimen of its class.
Behind the temple a magnificent view is to be obtained
from the top of the cliff over the hilly country. The jungle
is thickly inhabited by troops of black monkeys, flocks of green
parrots, huge lizards resembling young crocodiles, and myriads
of smaller creatures. Indeed, the zoologist, the botanist, and
the artist need go no further for weeks.
Maiwana On the right bank of the river, opposite Kaduwella, is a
place of classical interest now known as Welgama, but
anciently by the more poetic name of Malwana. Three cen-
turies or more ago it was the chosen sanitarium of Portuguese
Governors and high officials, and was regarded as the most
salubrious spot within their reach. Here they dwelt in princely
palaces few traces of which remain.
Pottery The villages upon the banks of the river are famous for
their pottery. The visitor will be interested no less by the
quaintness of the ware itself, than by the methods of its manu-
facture, which is carried on in open sheds by the wayside.
Hanwella The large village of Hanwella is reached at the twenty-
first mile-post from Colombo. It was a place of considerable
consequence in the davs of the Kandyan kingdom, and
possessed a fort commanding both by land and water the
principal route which led from the interior of the island to
Colombo. Here the last king of Kandy was defeated by
Captain Pollock. Not far from this place was a palace
erected for the use of the king when on this his final expedition,
and in front of it were placed the stakes on which he intended
to impale the captured British.
185. VIEW FROM THE REST-HOUSE, HANWELLA.
186. THE MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY

187. ARECA PALMS. ARECA ADORNING THE JUNGLE.
189. THE HACKERY

Our view No. 185 is taken from the grounds of the rest- Keiani Valley
house which occupy the site of the old fort built by the The historic
r'"t-iwuse
Portuguese about three centuries ago. The stone seats observ-
able in our picture bear inscriptions recording the visits of
members of the British royal family. King Edward VII. was
here in 1876. In 1870 Hanwella was visited by the Duke ol
Edinburgh, and in 1882 by His Majesty King George V. and
the late Prince Victor. Trees planted by all the Princes will
be seen flourishing in the grounds.
The up-river view (Plate 185) is particularly beautiful in River scenery
the early morning when the Adam's Peak range of mountains

is visible in the background; the broad silvery stream narrow-
ing in distant perspective, the rich borders of foliage that

clothe the lofty and receding banks, the foreground clad with
verdure and flowers, and the blue haze of distant mountains
over all make up a picture that does not easily fade from
memory, but which no photograph can adequately represent.
KELANI VALLEY LINE ITINERARY

The railway itinerary from Colombo to Yatiyantota begins at Keiani Valley
Maradana Junction. The line upon leaving Colombo runs

south until the first station, Cotta Road (2m. 20c.) is reached.
This is a small suburban station within municipal limits.
After leaving Cotta Road the line traverses the Ridgeway
golf links (said to be the best low country links in the East)
to Nugegoda.
—
Nugegoda (5m. 52c). Nugegoda is in the centre of a Nugegoda
cluster of well-populated villages of which the once famous
principality of Cotta is the chief. The road scenery in the
neighbourhood is very charming as may be gathered from our
plate 189. Although Cotta was the seat of kings in the Cotta
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the whole country was

subdivided into petty states, there are no remains of historical
interest to detain the visitor. The chief institutions in the
district are the missionary and educational establishments of
the Church Missionary Society, which date from the year 1818.
The manufactures consist of pottery and pillow-lace, which
the villagers may be seen making- in the shade of their palm-
thatched verandahs. Both may be purchased at surprisingly
small prices (Plate 186).
The agricultural products are cinnamon, the various palms
and garden vegetables, tons of which are sent by rail to the
Colombo markets.
Pannipitiya (rom. 49c.). — Pannipitiva offers no special Pannipitiya
attractions to the visitor. It is a purely Sinhalese village of
about eight hundred inhabitants, whose occupations chiefly
consist in the cultivation of the betel, cinnamon and oranges.
Keiani Valley —
Homagama (i 5m. 23c). Homagama station serves a purely
Lme Sinhalese population engaged in agriculture. The chief pro-
Hcmagama ducts are the palm, cinnamon, betel, areca nuts, coconut oil
and garden vegetables. We
shall here notice a distinct
increase in the cultivation of the elegant areca nut palms which
form one of the noticeable features of the Keiani Valley.
Arecajaims They adorn the jungle on all sides. A pleasing effect is pro-
duced by the beautiful delicate stem, with its rich feathery
crest, standing out from the surrounding foliage. The graceful
bamboos, the huge waving fronds of the plantain, the shapely-
mango, covered with the bell-shaped blossoms of the thun-
bergia creeper, all seem to form a setting in which the elegant
areca displays its beauties to the greatest possible advantage.
The virtues of this tree, however, are not aesthetic only.
It is very prolific in the production of nuts, which grow in
clusters from the stem just beneath the crest of the palm.
Previous to the development of the nuts the tree flowers, and
diffuses a delightful fragrance all around. In size and appear-
ance the nuts are not unlike the nutmeg, and are similarly-
enclosed in a husk. What becomes of them is easy to realise
when it is considered that every man, woman, and child is
addicted to the habit of betel-chewing, and that the areca
nut forms part of the compound used for this purpose added ;
to this, there is an export trade in areca nuts to the amount

of about ^75,000 per annum.
Padukka —
Padukka (21m. 74c). Padukka is a Sinhalese agricultural
village of the same character as Homogama, with the addi-
tional feature of an excellent rest-house. From this point
onward the railway enters the district where rubber cultiva-
tion on a large scale is taking place, and the traveller will
from time to time notice plantations of these most lucrative
Jak trees trees in various stages of growth. The jak trees in this dis-
trict will attract the notice of the traveller by their stupendous
growth and gigantic fruit. The jak not only grows the largest
of all edible fruits, but it bears it in prodigious quantity and
in a peculiar fashion. It throws huge pods from the trunk
and larger branches, and suspends them by a thick and short
stalk. There are sometimes as many as eighty of these huge
fruits upon one tree, some of them weighing as much as forty
to fifty pounds. They are pale green in colour, with a granu-
lated surface. Inside the rough skin is a soft yellow substance,
and embedded in this are some kernels about the size of a
walnut. This fruit often forms an ingredient in the native
curries, but its flavour is disliked by Europeans. Elephants,
however, are very fond of it, and its great size would seem to
make it an appropriate form of food for these huge beasts.
A much more extensive use of the jak tree is the manufacture
of furniture from its wood, which is of a yellowish colour
190. THE JAK TREE
101. SITAWAKA RIVER.
192. SITAWAKA RIVER.
193. THE TOLL BA 194. THE GUIDE POST TO RATNAPURA
195. A KELANI BARGE AT HANWELLA.

when seasoned. It is harder than mahogany, Kelani

turning to red Valley
which somewhat resembles.
it Line
—
Waga (27m. 48c). From Padukka to Waga the course of Waga
the railway line north and approaches to within four miles of
is
Hanwella. Thus it will be noticed that the traveller who
wishes to visit Hanwella without the expense of motor car or
other conveyance from Colombo, can travel by rail to Waga
and thence to Hanwella by hackery (Plate 189), which will cost
about twenty-five cents or fourpence a mile.
At Hanwella will be found the comfortable rest-house iiaimviia
already described, where the artist or naturalist will be
tempted to prolong his stay. Upon leaving Hanwella the
route mav be varied by driving to Kosgama station instead
of back to Waga, the distance being about the same. We
have now reached the outskirts of the Kelani Valley tea
plantations, and tea has to be added to the list of local
products, although areca nuts provide most of the freight
despatched from Waga station.
Apart from the beautiful scenery and historical associations LeUmgama.,
of Hanwella, the traveller will be well rewarded for a trip
to Waga by the lovely prospect of the Labugama Lake, from
which Colombo derives its water supply. Here in silence and
solitude lies an expanse of water artificially dammed, but with
such a glorious setting that it is unsurpassed for picturesquc-
ness in the rest of this beautiful country. Around the basin,
which is situated 360 feet above sea level, are rugged hills
rising to upwards of 1,000 feet and exhibiting the greatest
variety of tropical flora, planted by the hand of nature herself.
The catchment area of 2,400 acres is intersected by manv
streams, which flow from the hills over boulder-strewn beds
bringing pure supplies to the reservoir. The marginal sward,
like the gold slip of a picture frame, has its pleasing effect at
the edge of the still waters, in which are mirrored the graceful
shapes evolved from the mists of a vapour-laden sky. Beauti-
ful cloud-effects are seldom absent, for it is a locality which
attracts and then disperses them. The rainfall is indeed
heavy and frequent, amounting to 160 inches in a year, or
nearly double that of Colombo. The visitor should therefore
be prepared accordingly.
Before the Kelani Valley was exploited for agricultural
purposes, the locality around Labugama was famous for
elephant hunting and shooting. A kraal was constructed here
in 1882 in honour of the visit of His Majesty the King and the
late Prince Victor, and a large number of elephants were
caught.
—
Puwakpitiya (34m. 43c). At Puwakpitiya we reach the Puwakpitiya
tea cultivation. This station serves the estates of Penrith,
Elston, Glencorse, Ernan, Ferriby and Northumberland.
Keiani Valley Rubber is also largely cultivated in this neighbourhood. From
Line the heights upon Ferriby Estate there are grand views of the
surrounding mountainous country.
Avisaweiia —
Avisawella (36m. 66c). Avisawella is a town of con-
siderable importance both historically and as the centre of the
district. It is moreover at present the junction between the
rail and coach service to Ratnapura, the city of gems. The
local products are tea, coconuts, cardamoms, paddy, betel
leaf, kurrakan, cinnamon, rubber and areca nuts.
The accommodation for travellers at the rest-house quite
near the railway station is excellent, and the food supply
always good.
suimmka Sitawaka is the historical name of this place, and although
it has long' disappeared from maps and modern documents, the
river, a tributary of the Keiani, upon which the ancient city

stood, is still known as the Sitawaka River (see Plates 191 and
192). The name is derived from the incident of Sita, the heroine
of the epic Ramayana, being forcibly brought hither by Rawana.
This legend of prehistoric times provides a fitting- halo of
romance for so charming a spot but in later times, when
;
history has supplanted tradition, we find Sitawaka towards

the middle of the sixteenth centurv the capital of a lowland
principality, the stronghold of Mayadunne and his son
Rajasinha, who had the courage to oppose the King of Cotta
and the Portuguese, with the result that many bloody battles
were fought around the city, which eventually, about the close
of the century, was destroyed by the ruthless Portuguese, who
scarcely left a stone standing. The beautiful temple, con-
structed of finely worked granite, and the gorgeous palace
were burned and wrecked so completely that only traces of
them are now visible.
Ratnajmra Ratnapura, to which we have made reference in connection
with Panadure and Kalutara in our description of the coast
line, is twenty-six miles from Avisawella, and there is at
present a dailv coach service between the two places.
The planters of the Ratnapura district have, however,
made out a case before the Ceylon Government and an exten-
sion of the Keiani Valley line, twenty-seven miles in length,
is now under construction from Avisawella to Ratnapura, and
will probably be opened for traffic at the end of 1911. The

country to be traversed is very similar to that already de-
scribed in the journey from Colombo.
For exquisite scenery many award the palm to Ratnapura.
Certain it is that no traveller can be disappointed; for here
are obtainable distant views of great sublimity in mountain
walls clothed with forest rising thousands of feet in sheer
perpendicular ; and in the nearer landscape well-watered
valleys and undulating- plains may be seen teeming with every
form of tropical flora. Ratnapura is also the centre of the Kelani Valley
gemming industry, which is entirely in native hands. Here Llne
the traveller can obtain an insight into the methods by which Ratnapura
the hidden treasures of the earth are brought to light. Here Gems,
under our feet lie the gems that will some day adorn future
generations of the wealthy. The discovery of these precious
stones is an unceasing source of considerable wealth. The
gem-digger comes upon a sapphire, with the possible result
that a thousand pounds from the coffers of the Rajah in a
distant land is transferred to the sum of wealth in Ceylon,
but such valuable finds are few and far between. Genuine
stones there are in abundance, but those that are flawless and
of approved tint are the prizes of the industry.
Deiiiowita (42m. 50c.). —Dehiowita is surrounded by many Dehiowita
large tea estates, which supply a considerable traffic to the
railway. Rubber cultivation is on the increase here. The
little town lies about three quarters of a mile from the railway
station, and contains about nine hundred inhabitants, many
of them being estate coolies.
—
Karawanella (45m. 40c). Karawanella station is one mile Karawaneiia
from the village of Karawanella and two miles from Ruanwella,
which together have a population of about 1,500. Some of
the most beautiful scenery in Ceylon is to be found here. The
river views are perhaps unequalled, especially that from Kara-
wanella bridge (Plate 196). There are plenty of heights from
which to view the diversified character of the country. Immense
perpendicular ledges of rocks rise from the forest, rearing
their stupendous heads above the thickets of palm and bamboo.
Even these rocks of granite which appear in giant masses
all over the forests by disintegration supply nourishment
for the luxuriant vegetation with which they are covered
(Plate 199). The reward of human labour is apparent in the
tea and rubber estates now flourishing where once the lands
lay in utter devastation as a result of the native wars with
the Portuguese and Dutch, the country here being the farthest
point to which the invaders managed to penetrate.
At Ruanwella the rest-house and its grounds, which are Ruanwella
on the site of a ruined fort, are in themselves full of interest,
and will be found so conducive to comfort as to make the
visitor who is not pressed for time very loth to leave. A fine
archway, the entrance to the ancient fort, is still preserved,
and forms an interesting feature in the gardens. The site,
commanding as it did the water communication between
Kandy and Colombo, was of great importance. Here the
Kandyans made more than one brave but ineffectual stand
against the British troops in the early part of the nineteenth
century- At this time the Kandyan king's royal garden was
occupied by British troops, and was thus described by
i'
Keiani Valley Percival :
—
"The grove where we encamped was about two
Line miles in circumference, being bound on the west by a large,
The king's deep and rapid branch of the Malivaganga, while in front
garden
towards Ruanwella another branch ran in the south-east
direction, winding in such a manner that the three sides
of the grove were encompassed by water, while the fourth was
enclosed by thick hedges of bamboos and betel trees. This
extensive coconut-tree garden lies immediately under steep and
lofty hills, which command a most romantic view of the sur-
rounding country. It forms part of the king's own domains,
and is the place where his elephants were usually kept and
"
trained.
The British retained Ruanwella as a military post until
the new road to Kandy was completed and the pacification of
the Kandyans entirely accomplished, after which the fort and
commandant's quarters were transformed into a well-
appointed rest-house and picturesque gardens. The ruined
entrance still bears the initials of Governor Sir Robert Brown-
rigg and the date 1817.
Produce boats A pleasant stroll from the rest-house, through shady groves
of areca and other palms, brings us to a part of the river which
is not only very picturesque, but gives evidence of its use
of commerce as a highway. Here we can see the quaint pro-
duce boats and the curiously constructed bamboo rafts being
laden with freight for the port of Colombo.
From this point to Colombo the distance by water is about
sixty miles and such is the rapidity of the current after the
;
frequent and heavy rainfalls that these boats are able to reach
Colombo in one day the only exertion required of the boatmen
;
being such careful steering as to keep clear of rocks, trees,

and sandbanks. The return journey, however, is a more
arduous task, and entails great labour and endurance for
many days.
Yatiyantota Yatiyantota (47m. 6oc).— Yatiyantota is the present
terminus of the Keiani Valley railway. It is very much shut
in by hills and in consequence very warm. There is a good
rest-house with two bedrooms.
There are few attractions here for the visitor; but it serves
as a halting place for those who proceed by this route to
Dickoya and the higher planting districts, the mountain pass
to which is a thing of very great natural beauty and of its
kind unequalled in Ceylon, where so many mountain passes
have lost their primitive beauty owing to the inroads of
modern cultivation clearing away all the primeval forest.
Here, in the Ginigathena Pass, the landscape has not yet
suffered, and the views from Kitulg-ala at the eighth mile from
Yatiyantota are exceedingly beautiful. Upon leaving the rest-
house the road runs along the banks of the Keiani, as seen
196. THE KELANI AT KARAWANELLA.
197. PRODUCE BOATS AT RUANWELLA.

Keiani.Vaiiey in our plate 198, the ascent beginning about the third mile.
Llne
There are no conveyances to be obtained at Yatiyantota
except bullock hackeries, and the visitor who wishes to pro-
ceed by this route to Hatton should therefore make the trip
by motor car from Colombo. But for the tourist who explores
Cinigatkcna t] le Kelani Valley at leisure, a walking tour up the Ginigathena
Pass, with a hackery for an occasional ride, is pleasant

enough, and may be done by making headquarters at Ruan-
wella rest-house which is cooler and pleasanter than Yati-
yantota.
Kegaiu In the same way the tourist may make a trip from Ruan-
wella to Kegalle (twenty miles), through a lovely wooded and
undulating country. The cyclist will find it easy to explore
the whole of the Kelani Valley by using the railway for the
longer journeys, and taking short excursions on his bicycle
from the various rest-houses.
198. THE KELANI AT YATIYANTOTA.
199. ROCKS OF GRANITE AT RUANWELLA.

200. DANDUGAMUWA BRIDGE
201. THE RAILWAY STATION NEGOMBO.

CHAPTER XI
THE NEGOMBO LINE

The last completed section of the Ceylon Government Railway Negombo Line
is Negombo Line (broad
the gauge), which extends from
Ragama Junction, on the main line, in a northerly direction
for fourteen and a half miles. This line will be eventually
further extended to serve the populous villages of the western
coast and the important towns of Chilaw and Puttalam. The
visitor is recommended to make the short trip to Negombo
both on account of the interesting scenery en route and the
picturesque features of the town itself. The first station
reached after leaving the junction of Ragama, which is only
nine miles from Colombo, is Kandana.
—
Kandana (2m. 5c). This station chiefly serves the native Kandana
agriculturist, who is occupied in the cultivation of all manner
of garden produce for the market of Colombo. At the begin-
ning of the fifth mile we reach a place of much greater
—
importance Ja-ela.
Ja-ela (4m. ioc.). — There is a local tradition that in early Ja-ela
times this place was occupied by Malays from Java, who con-
structed a canal (ela) and named the locality Ja-ela, signifying
their origin and achievement. For many centuries the district
has been famous for its cinnamon, which, whether wild or
cultivated, has been found to possess a quality of distinctly
superior aroma. There is an excellent rest-house close to the
station.
Siduwa Road (7m. 78c). —
This is merely a small siding siduwa Road
where tickets are issued for the convenience of the inhabitants
of outlying villages too distant from other stations. It is
approached by Dandugamuwa bridge, which we illustrate.
Katunayake (10m. 45c.) is situated amidst well-watered katunayake
fields and gardens, where a thriving and busy population de-
vote themselves to a great variety of tropical culture and
to whom the introduction of the railway is proving a boon of
considerable importance.
—
Negombo (14m. 42c). Negombo is one of the most Negombo
picturesque towns in Ceylon, and is, moreover, favoured with
perhaps the richest soil, a property which accounts for the
magnificent appearance of the vegetation throughout the dis-
trict. In this respect it is indeed unsurpassed anywhere in the
island. Its products include many exotic fruits, originally
23 r
202. THE LAKE OF NEGOMBO.
203. THE WATER CARRIERS, NEGOMBO.

introduced from Java and the Malay Peninsula, while its in- Negombo Lin
digenous plants and trees include almost the whole flora
of Ceylon, in the most beautiful combination that the vegetable
kingdom is capable of exhibiting, or that the most fertile
imagination can picture. Every reference to Negombo in the
wide range of literature that has been devoted to Ceylon since
the arrival of Europeans at the beginning of the fifteenth
century has noted this fact with appreciation. After the
eulogies of the Portuguese and the Dutch, Cordiner wrote
in 1807: "The Jack, the bread-fruit, the jamboo, and the
cashew-tree weave their spreading branches into an agreeable
shade amidst the stems of the areca and coconut. The black
pepper and betel plants creep up the sides of the lofty trunks
;
cinnamon and an immense variety of flowering shrubs fill the

intermediate spaces, and the mass of charming foliage is
blended together with a degree of richness that beggars tin-
powers of description. All the beautiful productions of the
island are here concentrated in one exuberant spot, and, as
Ceylon has been termed the garden of India, this province
may be styled the herbarium of Ceylon." Modern methods of
culture have still further intensified the luxuriant aspect of the
district
; and now that the railway has rendered it so easily
accessible, its botanical marvels and its charmingly picturesque
features will deservedly become as familiar to the European
traveller as those of Kalutara and Galle. The town has a
population of 20,000 inhabitants, mostly Sinhalese. The
bungalows, suggestive of Dutch influence in their architec-
tural features, are neat and clean, and the whole place exhibits
a well-kept appearance befitting the seat of an Assistant
Government Agent who presides over the district. An im-
portant item to the traveller is the capacious rest-house
situated upon a walled embankment overlooking an extensive
and beautiful lake (see Plate 202). Here the traveller will
find the necessaries of life, and such native delicacies and
luxuries as unrivalled tropical gardens and fisheries can
afford. Quaint craft will be seen sailing to and fro in front
of this hostelry. In close proximity is the bridge observable
in our picture of the water carriers (Plate 203), leading to the
pretty island of Numnai Karsi, where salt may be seen oozing
through the sand in sufficient quantity to be segregated for
table use. The smaller island of Kuttai Duwe, famous for its
auctions of fish, is also observable to the right. Sailing upon
this charming lake is one of the pleasantest recreations of
visitors. The quaint operations of the fisherfolk are an unfail-
ing attraction to those who have never before seen them.
The Dutch, during their occupation of the maritime provinces,
applied their proverbial genius for the construction of water-
ways in looping together the large saltwater lakes of
Negombo Line the western coast by means
of canals. Thus they were able
to carry produce fromPuttalam to Colombo without the
risk of navigating- in the open sea. The canal at Negombo
affords the visitor a very good specimen of these waterways,
and, moreover, provides the amateur photographer with some
very attractive subjects for his camera.
In the town, also, there are many things of interest that
should not escape the traveller. The manufacture of curiosities
in brass is carried on extensively, and, although it is perhaps
easier to buy the finished article in Colombo, whither it is
usually sent as soon as fashioned, the visitor to Negombo
should inspect the primitive methods by which the natives
produce many articles of real merit.
An old Dutch fort of the year 1678, still mounting two
guns, will attract attention. This was originally the site of a
stockade erected in earlier times by the Portuguese, who held
Negombo as a sanitarium but their conquerors, the Dutch,
;
who came into possession of Negombo early in the seventeenth

century, were prompt to perceive the commercial value of the
district and its suitability for the cultivation of cinnamon; and
to the end that they might exploit the land to the fullest
advantage they converted the stockade into a considerable
fortress, with four batteries, which enabled them to control
the natives who were within their reach and to protect their
gangs of cinnamon searchers and peelers. Within this old
fortress are now the courts and offices of the Government.
A large proportion of the inhabitants of Negombo are stead-
fast adherents of the Roman faith, a heritage which has
descended to them from the Portuguese. Their church of
St. Mary, which has been under construction for about fifteen
years, is well worth a visit. The magnificent altar of marble
has alone cost about twenty thousand rupees, mainly con-
tributed by the poor fisherfolk, who systematically apply a
certain of their catch to the fund required.
proportion
Negombo may be explored without much expense, the rates
of carriage hire being very moderate. From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.,
Rs.4; any six consecutive hours, Rs.2; one hour, R.i;
each additional hour, 75 cents.
The average temperature of Negombo is 8o° F., and the
annual rainfall 69 inches.
USEFUL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS
TO CEYLON.
CURRENCY.
British sovereigns are legal tender at the rate of £i for 15 rupees.
The silver coins in use in Ceylon are Indian rupees and the decimal
coinage of Ceylon consisting of 50 cents (half rupee), 25 cents (quarter
rupee), and 10 cents (one tenth of the rupee).
The bronze coinage consists of five-cent, one-cent, half-cent, and
quarter-cent pieces.
BOAT HIRE IN THE HARBOUR OF COLOMBO.

For Steam Launches, Baals anal Canoes.
Per Head.
From landing jetty to any vessel, or vice versa, or
from one vessel to another within the Break-
water 25 cents
For the return journey ... ... ... ... ... 2^ cents
[In each case between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., 40 cents.]
The above fares include one hour's detention for boats and canoes.
For every subsequent hour's detention 40 cents between 6 a.m. and
7 p.m., and 50 cents between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., per boat (not passenger).
Two children under ten count as an adult children under two go free.
;
Special agreement must be made for boats or canoes required for

special service.
For Baggage.
Chairs, hand-bags, or straps of rugs (with owner) Free
,, ,, ,, (without owner) 5 cents each
Small packages (up to 33 in. by 19 in. by 18 in.) 10 to 15 cents
Large boxes or cases ... ... ... ... ... 25 cents
Disputes should be referred to the Jetty Sergeant, while gross im-

position or incivility can be reported to the Master Attendant (Harbour
Master), whose office is in the Custom House, and who in all matters
connected with the wharf and the shipping acts as Police Magistrate.
GUIDES.
Licensed Guides wearing dark blue coats with green facings can be
engaged at the Guides' Shelter near the landing jetty. The fee is 50 cents
for the first hour and 25 cents for each additional hour.
Rs. c.
INDEX
Chavakachcheri, 207
Chunakam, 214
Abhayagiri}'a Dagaba, 194-195 Cinnamon culture, 44, 45, 46
Adam's Peak, 130, 131, 132 Gardens, Colombo, 17, 35
Hotel, 129
Climate, 2, 3
Agra-oya, 134 Coconut cultivation, 75, 76, 77, 78,
Agrapatana, 134
79
Ahangama, 65 Colombo, The approach to, 4
Alawwa, So ,The Fort, 7
Allagalla, 82, S3, S5 Cotta, 219
Alutgama, 56 Customs, 6
Aluwihare, 11S, 119
Ambagamuwa, 12S
Ambalangoda, 58, 59 D
Ambanpola, 172 Dalada, Anuradhapura, 200, 201
Ambastala Dagaba, 177 Dambula, 119, 120
Ambawcla, 14S Dawson, 87
Ambepussa, So Dehiowita, 22^
Angulana, 40 Dehiwala, 36, 37
Anuradhapura, 172-202 Dekanda Valley, S3, S5
Areca palms, 220 Dewale, Definition "1, 87
Arrack, 52 Dhobies, iq
Attractions of Ceylon, 1
Dimbula, 133
Avisawella, 224 Djyatalawa, j 53
Dodanduwa, 61
I!
Dodanwala, 88, 89
Badulla, 153 Dolosbage, 127
Balpitiya, 5S Dumbara, 10;
Bambalapitiya, 34, 35
Bandarawela, 153
Banyan tree, 16
Bentota, 57
Edinburgh Crescent, 16
Elara, 184
Beruwala, 54, 56
Bo-tree, Ancient, 1S0, 181
Elephant Pass, 206
Boat hire in harbour of Colombo,
Embekke, 88
F.mbilmigama, 88
23 s
Etwehera Dagaba, 176
Borella, 12
Brazen Palace, 1S5
F
Brookside, 167
Fishing industry, 36
C Flora, 3
Canoes, Sinhalese, 6 Flower Road, iS
Carriage hire, 235 Flying foxes, 98
Cathedral of Saint Thomas, 18 Fort, Colombo, Plan of the, 7
Santa Lucia, 18 Railway station,
, 12, 31,
Chatham Street, 9 2
3
233 INDEX
Gadaladeniya, SS, 3S1 Kadugannawa, Dewales at, 87

Galboda, 12S Kaduwela, 216
Galgamuwa, 172 Kalutara, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52
Galle, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65 Kamburugamuwa, 66
Galle Face, 13 Kandana, 231
Hotel, 14 Kandapola, 166, 167
Gampola, 125, 126, 127 Kandy, 99-115
Ganewatte, 168, 171 , Arrival of the British at, 100
Garden Club, The Colombo, 16 , Climate of, 104
Giant's Tank, 203 , History of, 100
Ginigathena Pass, 228 , Hotels of, 103
Gintota, 61 Lake, 101
Golf Links, Colombo, 17 , Map of, 102
Grand Pass, 12 ,Population and area, 103
Green Path, 16, 18, 35 Kankesanturai, 214
Guides, 13 Kanthalai, 123
Guildford Crescent, 65 Karuwanella, 225
Katugastota, 116
Katukurunda, 55
H Katunayake, 231
Kegalle, Sr, 228
Habarane, 123 Kelani Valley, 215-229
Hakgalla, 165 Kelaniya, 69
Hantanne, 105 , Making tiles at, 70
Hanwella, 216, 223 River, 70
Haputale, 152 , Scene on the river, 70
Hatton, 129 Temple, 71
Henaratgoda, 72 Kodikamam, 207
Hikkaduwa, 61 Kollupitiya, 14, 35
Hog's Back Tunnel, 12S Kosgoda, 57
Ilomagama, 220 Kotagala, 132
Horton Place, 17 Kurunegala, 169, 170
Horton Plains, 51 1
Hotel, Bristol, 7
, Carlton House, 156
, Galle Face, 7 Labugama, 223
, Grand, 156 Lake of Colombo, 14
, Grand Oriental, 7 Lankatilake, 8S, 89
, Mount Lavinia, 39 Lunawa, 40
, New
Keena, 156
Andrews, 156
St.
,
Hunupitiya, 71 M
Madawachchi, 202
I Maggona, 56
Mahaiyawa, 116
Induruwa, 57 Mahamega, 17S, 179
Isurumuniya, 1S2 Maha Sen, 196
Seya, 175
Mahaweliganga, 116
J Mahinda, 177
Maho, 171
Ja-ela, 231 Mankulam, 206
Jaffna, 20S-213 Map of Anuradhapura, 173
Jak trees, 220, 221 Fort of Colombo, 7
Jewellers, 10 Kandy, 102
Jetawanarama, 196, 197 Peradeniya Gardens, 90
Jinrickshaw hire, 236 the railways, facing -p. 1
INDEX 239
Maradana statical, 31 Polonnaruwa, 123

Matale, 117, 118 Post Office, The General, S
Matara, 66, 67, 6S Potuhera, 16S
Mihintale, 174 Poya-ge, 87
Minheria, 123 Prince of Wales' College, 40
Mirigama, 75 Pussellawa, 127
Monsoons, 2 Puwakpitiya, 223
Moonstones, Architectural, 198, 190
Moratuwa, 40, 41, 42, 43
Lagoon, 42
Mount Lavinia, 3$, 39
Museum, Colombo, 14, 16, 17 Queen Street, Colombo, 9
of Art at Kandy, 10S Queen's Ifouse, Colombo, 8
Mutwall, iS
R
N
Racecourse, Colombo, 17
Nalande, 119, 120 Ragalla, 167
Nanuoya, 14S, 154, 155 Ragama, 71, 72
National Bank of India, 11
Railway regulations, 24-29
Navatkuli, 207 , animals, 28
Nawalapitiya, 1 28 , bicycles, 29
Xegombo, 231-234 , break of journey, 27
Nilganga, 6S , children, 27
Northern Line itinerary, 16S-214 , horses and vehicles, 28
Nugedoda, 219 , invalids' accommoda-
Nuwara Lliya, 156-165 tion, 25
, amusements, 162, 165 j luggage, 24
climate, 160 , petrol, 2S
Golf Club, 162 , special terms for par-
, Season of, 160 ties, 28
, special trains, 26
O , telegrams, 28
, tickets, 27
Ohiya, 150, 1^1

Railway, The, 19
Coast Line, 20, 32
,
Kelani Valley Line,

,
23, 215-
229
, Main Line, 20
1'adukka, 220 , Matale Line, 20, 116
Paiyagala, 55 , Negombo Line, 230-234
Pallai, 207 , Northern Line, 20, 16S
Palmyra cultivation, 20S , Udapussellawa Line, 23, 155
Panedure, 47 , list of stations, 29, 30
Pannapitiya, 219 , refreshment cars, 22, 23
Pansala, Definition of, 87 , rolling stock, 23
Papaw, 94, 95 , sleeping cars, 21, 23
Paranthan, 206 , workshops, 22
Park Street, Colombo, 14 Rainfall, 2
Pattipola, 14S Rambodde, 127
Peradeniya, 90 Rambukkana, 82
Botanic Gardens, 90-99 Rameseram, 203
Junction, 91, 125 Ratnapura, 4S, 51, 224, 225
, mapof Gardens, 90 Reservoir at Kandy, 113, 114
Pettah, 32 Royal College, 12
Pidurutallagalla, 161 Rozelle, 129
Point Pedro, 207 Ruanweli Dagaba, 186-191
Pokunas, 190, 193, 194 Ruanwella, 225, 226
Polgahawela, 81 Rubber, 72, 73, 74
?4° INDEX
Union Place, 14. 15
United Club, 165
St. Clair Falls, 133 Uva, 149-153
St. Joseph's College, 14, 15
St. Thomas' College, iS
Siduwa Road, 231
Sigiri, 120, I2i, 122
Slave Island, 14, 33, 3^ Vauxhall Road, 14, 15
Vavuniya, 204
Veyangoda, 74, 75
Victoria Arcade, 11
Park, 14, 16, 17, 35
Talawa, 172
Talawakele, 133
Talipot palms, 81, 82
Talpe, 6q
W
Tea planting, 134-147 Wadduwa, 4S
Technical school, 12 Vvaga, 223
Temperature, 2 Wanni, 204, 205
Temple of the Tooth, 105, 106 Watagoda, 147
Thuparama Anuradhapura, 180
at Watawala, 129
Tiles, Manufacture of, 70 Wattegama, 116
Tissa, 177 Weligama, 66
Tobacco, 20S, 209, 211 Wellawa, 171
Toddy, 52 Wellawatta, 33, 34, 35
Toluwila, 202 Wihare, Definition of, 87
Tramways, Colombo, 10, 12 Wolfendahl, 18
Trincomali, 123, 124 World's End, 152
U
Udapussellawa, 167 Yapahuwa, 171
Ukuwela, 117 Yatiyantota, 226
Ulapane, 127 York Street, 10
p.y Cassell and Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C.

Grand Oriental Hotel,
COLOMBO, CEYLON.
Facing the Harbour, offers view of the surrounding

a (magnificent
Coast, and is and Telegraph lOffices, Banks,
in close proximity to the Post
Shipping Agencies, Customs, and a few minutes drive from the Railway
Station and Cinnamon Gardens.
Electric Fans in Bedrooms and Public Rooms. Suites of Rooms,
Private, Dining, Reading, and Drawing Rooms.
The only Hotel in Colombo with Tropical Garden.
The Hotel Orchestra plays during Tiffin (Luncheon) and Dinner every
day, and at special Garden Concerts on Wednesday and Sunday Evenings.
POSITION AND CUISINE UNSURPASSED IN CEYLON.
Special Terms for Familiesand Visitors making a prolonged stay.

Cook's Coupons accepted.
THE COLOMBO HOTELS COMPANY, Ltd., Proprietors.

Telegrams: "GRAND, COLOMBO."
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a
QUEEN S HOTEL
KANDY.
ESTABLISHED 1849
Extensively) Enlarged and Improved,
Lift. Electric Light throughout. Baths on all Floors.
Superior Accommodation for 250 Visitors.
This First-Class Hotel

Is 1,700 feet above Sea level and occupies the best Site
in the Mountain Capital, overlooking the lovely
Lake, Mountains, Esplanade, and the Ancient

Temple of the Buddhist Religion, the
Shrine of Buddha's Tooth.
Within Three Minutes Drive of the Railway Station.
Four Trains to and from Colombo Daily.
ALL TRAINS ARE MET BY HOTEL PORTERS AND CARRIAGES.
PRIVATE CARRIAGES. J>' CHARGES MODERATE.
On parle Franqais. Man Spricht Deutsch.
Telegraphic Address :
M. FRIEDHOFF,
•QUEEN'S, KANDY." Manager.
WALKERS' GARAGE.
SITUATED AT SLAVE ISLAND, COLOMBO.

Only a Few Minutes Drive from the Passenger Jetty, the Galle
Face and Grand Oriental Hotels.
HIGH GLASS CARS FOR HIRE

BY HOUR, DAY, OR TOUR.
Please ask for Walkers' Motor

Guide through Ceylon.
Giving full particulars of Tariff, &c, and description of the
principal trips that can easily be made.
Rates are
Moderate
and
Fully Inclusive.
Special Terms
for Long
23* Engagements.
WALKER, SONS & CO.,

COLOMBO, CEYLON.
Telegraphic Address: "WALKERS," COLOMBO.
Codes: A.B.C. 5th Ed., LIEBER'S, BENTLEY'S Cs WESTERN UNION
Telephone Numbers: 142, 189 and 288.
ELLERMAN LINES OF STEAMERS.
Total fleet 85 steamers. Controlling Owner:
Total gross tonnage over 320,000. Sir John R. Ellerman, Bart,
CITY LINE.
FLEET.
Tonnage. Hon
C.ty of AgTa
Round Ceylon
nd to
South India and Back

by the splendidly appointed steamers
LADY BLAKE f LADY McCALLUM.
For further particutars apply to
WALKER, SONS «3 CO., LTD.,

Managing Agents,
CEYLON STEAMSHIP CO., LIMITED.

"BIBBY LINE."
Fast Twin Screw Mail and Passenger Steamers.
ESTABLISHED 1821.
The Bibby Fleet now consists entirely of Twin Screw Steamers, all fitted with bilge
keels, and specially built for the First Class Eastern Passenger trade, viz :
—
I mistered
CHESHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
DERBYSHIRE
WORCESTERSHIRE
HEREFORDSHIRE
WARWICKSHIRE
LEICESTERSHIRE
GLOUCESTERSHIRE (building)
These fast and powerful Sleamers (specially constructed by Messrs. Harland and
Wolff, Belfast, for the Eastern Trade) are of the most modern type, and uniformly
provided with every possible comfort for passengers.
The Saloon State Rooms, etc., are amidship and fitted for first class passengers only.
The State Rooms throughout the fleet are placed entirely on the main and promenade
decks, thus ensuring ample light and ventilation under all circumstances. Patent
mechanical ventilation and refrigerators. Experienced Surgeon and Stewardess carried.
Electrical Fans provided in all the cabins free of charge.
COLOMBO TO RANGOON.— Regular Sailings every

Fortnight.
. FARES .
MANAGERS OF TOURS AND EXCURSIONS,
FORWARDING AGENTS, BANKERS, Etc.,
Head Office :
Victoria Branches also at
BOMBAY,
LUDGATE CIRCUS, Arcade, CALCUTTA,
LONDON, EC. and RANGOON.
COLOMBO.
Thos. Cook & Son have at all their offices a trained and competent
staff, conversant through the experience or years, with all the
details of Travel through India, Burmah, and Ceylon, and
they respectfully invite all visitors to Ceylon to call at their
offices and make arrangements for their Indian Tours.
J*
Railway Tickets issued over all Railways of India, Burmah,

and Ceylon and throughout the World.
J*
Steamship Tickets issued on all Lines around India and through-

out the World.
J*
Packages of every description stored and shipped as Cargo to all
parts of the World, at lowest rates.
Passengers' Baggage shipped on steamers at lowest rates.
Letters of Credit and Circular Notes issued and cashed.

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C37 C4-

3 1924 023 977 659

The original of this book is in

the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in

The Book Of Geyloil. An Account

Goldeil Tips. A Description of Ceylon

The Ruined Cities of Ceylon.

" Written in a very pleasant and scholarly style. "—Spectator.

Baudenkmaler aus Altester Zeit

CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED

General Description of the Ceylon Government Railway

V.— The Main Line Itinerary Colombo

VII.—The Main Line Itinerary Resumed — Peradeniya J unction

VIII. The Udapussellawa Line Itinerary, including Nuwara

The Kelani Valley Itinerary — Colombo

XL The Negombo Line ......... to Yatiyantota . 215

MAPS AND PLANS

Map of the Town of Kandy

such tastes can be accomplished in such an agreeable climate

in popularity the circumstance is clue less to its climate and

Temf>eratur. by cool sea breezes, with a temperature of 75 to S5 F. as

from 100 to 200 inches in the tea-country. The occurrence of

unfavourable for a sojourn in Ceylon. August and September

in a passage that cannot be improved upon, says :

than at anv other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara-

cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days

capped in the centre by the venerated peak named alter our

MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY BREAKING OVER THE SOUTH"WEST ARM

tion arrested by many quaint scenes.

lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot

costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall

use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of §j4

bore its literal meaning; but now indicates that portion of

faces us as we leave the harbour.

some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning

2. GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 3. THE QUEEN'S HOUSE.

THE GENERAL POST OFF RANKS AND BANKS IN QUFEN STREET.

newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain.

blossoms, large and showy, changing to purple as they fade,

limited to one floor. It is a remnant of old Colombo in the

afterwards hire a carriage,* drive along Galle Face, Union

8. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE.

Moors, Tamils, Parsees, Dutch, Portuguese, Malays and

domestic affairs unveiled from the glance of the curious

the Maradana Junction Station, the principal station whence Colombo

tion to view. It is advisable to obtain either through the hotel

13. VAUXHALL ROAD. HE GENERALS HOUSE.

16. BUDDHIST TEMPLE, iEW FROM THE GENERAL'S HOUSE.

25. THE SPORTS CLUB CRICKET GROUND^ON GALLE FACE.

name implies and is under the control Ceylon Govern-

latitude as Colombo. This line is by far the busiest and most

30. REFRESHMENT CAR.

Peradeniya junction (70)2 miles from Colombo on the main

feet above sea level and 63 miles from Nanuoya. This

private company, and meals can be obtained along the road in

(nickel, square with rounded corners)

To reserve a full compartment in the sleeping car, a first-class ticket

Children under twelve years of age accompanying adults may occupy

NOTE CONCERNING THE OLD COLOMBO TERMINUS AND