3.1 Clothing Performance Requirements

3.
1: Clothing Performance Requirements
3.1 CLOTHING PERFORMANCE REQUIREMENTS

Updates from Last Issue Oct 2021
Contents – Added clickable links to make navigation easier and manual more user friendly.
Added new sections – 2 General Product Safety Risk Assessment Requirement, 3 Testing and 4 Understanding the Testing
Tables.
NL 02 – Add Woven heavy weights requirements for seam slippage, seam strength, tensile strength and tear strength.
NL 02 – Tensile Strength test method amended from strip method to grab method.
NL 03 – Tear strength requirement amended 18N changed to 1800g so unit value is inline with all other testing tables.
NL 04 – ‘Brushed fabrics: 3@500revs’ amended to be ‘Brushed jersey fabrics only: 3@500revs’ to be clearer.
NL 05 – Seam strength and tensile strength separated requirement for medium and heavy weight fabrics.
NL 05 – Surface flash test added for pile fabrics.
NL 06 – Added CF to wet rub requirements for brushed fabrics. Was missing.
NL 06 – Pilling requirements made clearer between Woven Brushed and Knitted Brushed Fabrics.
NL 06 – 915 Flammability testing to BS EN 14878 – Requirement amended to pass to Class A.
NL 07 and NL 11 - Extension and Modulus – Made clear it is to only be tested on fabrics containing elastane.
NL 07 – Bursting strength test method amended from ‘BS EN ISO 13938’ to ‘BS EN ISO 13938-2’.
NL 09 – Added all chemicals to reflect Level 2 testing in the chemical management policy.
NL 11 – USA Flammability test was missing. Added.
NL 12 – Separated components out to be clearer. Added sections for metal, plastic, elastic, feathers etc.
NL 12 – Updated 915 security of attachment test method to be latest version PD CEN/TS 17394.
NL 12 – Feathers – Added colour fastness to dry rub test.
NL 13 – Added requirements for Sun Safe garments in line with EN 13758 parts 1 and 2.
NL 13 – Added requirements for water proof testing.
NL 13 - Added Easy Care and Non-Iron Test Method and Requirements.
NL 13 – Added Crease Recovery and Wrinkle Recovery Test Method and Requirements.
All testing tables – All tests re-order into chemicals, physicals, colour fastness and appearance after wash for uniformity
All testing tables – Added base, bulk, small order and additional colour way columns for clarity.
All testing tables – Fibre composition – Requirements has been amended to say ‘no tolerance on Single fibres’ to match
NLRM008 section 4.3B.
All testing tables - Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) has been added to all relevant tables to reflect
Level 2 testing in the chemical management policy.
All relevant testing tables - Cadmium Test method updated to match Chemical management policy.
All testing tables – Formaldehyde to only be tested on stiff nets, easy care, anti-pill & pigment print. Apart from NL03, NL
06, NL 07 and NL 11.
All relevant testing tables – Shade change on Abrasion test amended from 5000 rubs to 6000 rubs as per standard.
All relevant testing tables – Fabric weight test method to be BS EN 12127 for all fabrications. Garment weight to be
measured using following, ‘Weigh garment in grams on a calibrated balance with an accuracy of at least 1g.’
All relevant testing tables – Dimensional stability requirement removed for True Knitwear. It should only be assessed in
garment form during appearance after wash test.
In all dimensional stability tests, sample to be dried as per the care label – amended.
All relevant testing tables – Spirality fabric and garment test method procedures amended to procedure C and procedure
B only.
All relevant testing tables – Bursting Strength – Not needed on lace and Crotchet.
All relevant testing tables - Pilling test method year updated from 2000 to 2020.
All relevant testing tables – pH to be tested on additional colour ways on tables NL03, NL 06, NL 07 and NL 11 only.
All relevant test tables – Colour Fastness to washing, water and perspiration to be use Lyo W MFS.
All relevant testing tables – Amended Colour Fastness to Light to ISO 105 B02 (Method 2 modified BWS 4).
NL IHTM01 – Drying written incorrectly in purpose. To be dried as per Care Label instructions to match procedure.
NL IHTM01 – 6.1 requirement incorrect. Changed to “Grade 4. If colour change is present due to OBA – go to 6.1.1.”
NL IHTM01 – Dimensional Stability – Woven to be +/-3%. True knitwear requirement added at +/-5%.
NL IHTM02 – Load for metal changed from 500N to 200N.
Issue Status: Final 1 of 60 March 2022

3.1: Clothing Performance Requirements
Contents
1 Introduction................................................................................................................................................. 3
2 General Product Safety Risk Assessment Requirement – Applies to all products ..................................... 3
3 Testing ........................................................................................................................................................ 4
3.1 Accredited Laboratories ......................................................................................................................................... 4
3.2 Submission Procedure ............................................................................................................................................. 4
3.3 Validity of Testing...................................................................................................................................................... 4
3.4 Component Mapping ................................................................................................................................................ 5
3.5 Other Retailers Test Reports ................................................................................................................................. 5
3.6 New Look Preferred Suppliers ............................................................................................................................. 5
4 Performance Standards and Testing Tables ................................................................................................ 6
NL 01 - Woven Lightweight (less than 150gm²) .................................................................................................. 7
NL 02 - Woven Medium (151gm²- 279gm²) and Heavy (280gm² and over) Weight ......................... 10
NL 03 - Denim, Twill Weave, weight over 8½Oz/yd or 280gm² ................................................................. 13
NL 04 - Jersey, Knitwear and Knitted Outerwear .............................................................................................. 16
NL 05 - Coats and Jackets (excluding Knitted Outerwear) ............................................................................ 19
NL 06 - Nightwear - Knitted and Woven ............................................................................................................... 23
NL 07- Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear and Beachwear (Including Intimate Linings) .................... 27
NL 08 - Artificial Fur Fabric, Components and Trim (pile greater than 3mm) ...................................... 32
NL 09 - Artificial Leather, Polyurethane (PU), Polyvinylchloride (PVC) .................................................. 34
NL 10 - Leather, Suede, Nubuck and Hair-on Skins .......................................................................................... 36
NL 11 - All Linings and Pocketing ............................................................................................................................ 38
NL 12 - Trims, Embellishments and Zips .............................................................................................................. 40
NL 13 - Marketing Claims ........................................................................................................................................... 45
5 New Look In-House Test Methods (NL IHTM) ...................................................................................... 46
NL IHTM 01 - Appearance After Wash Assessment ......................................................................................... 47
NL IHTM 02 - Tensile Strength Of Clasps, Rings, Sliders And Hooks Used On Bra Straps................ 50
NL IHTM 03 - Heat Conductivity Of Metal Trims .............................................................................................. 51
NL IHTM 04 - Puncture Resistance Of Bra Wire Casing .................................................................................. 52
NL IHTM 05 - Wadding Migration ........................................................................................................................... 53
NL IHTM 06 - Fibre Percolation For Synthetic Fibres ..................................................................................... 56
Appendix...................................................................................................................................................... 57
Appendix 1 - USA FLAMMABILITY TESTING FOR ALL TEXTILE CLOTHING, 16 CFR 1610 ............. 57
Appendix 2 - FLAMMABILITY ASSESSMENT ...................................................................................................... 58
Appendix 3 - CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN ........................................................................................................... 59
Appendix 4 – Reference for ISO 105 C06 .............................................................................................................. 60

1 Introduction
New Look’s Product Performance Guideline outlines the performance tests required and New Look in-house test methods.
It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that all products supplied comply with all current and applicable legislation,
regulations, and guidance, that the product is safe and fit for purpose and suppliers will be held accountable for not doing so.
Suppliers must remain informed of changes in international legislation. The whole Supply Chain is required to exercise due
diligence jointly and take all reasonable precautions to avoid any offences being committed. To meet these obligations
suppliers must perform a risk assessment of each product. Documentation should be retained for at least 10 years.
2 General Product Safety Risk Assessment Requirement – Applies to all products

This standard must be used in conjunction with other requirements outlined in the New Look Supplier Manual
Suppliers need to provide evidence for all products, that it is safe, fit for purpose and meets customers’ expectations.
Safety Standards & Performance Standards

To achieve these suppliers will need to use whole and parts of all safety and performance standards that could be applicable
to the product.
Chemical Compliance
All components must either be tested to the standards specified in 2.2 Chemical Management Policy or existing tests mapped
to the style.
This must be managed by suppliers with the laboratories and may require a specific test request form.
Product History
When assessing whether a product is safe, will perform and meet customers’ expectations, suppliers must consider the safety
history of the product or similar products.

3 Testing
It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure all products are tested and meet the New Look Performance Requirements and
suppliers will be held accountable for not doing so. Any deviation from these requirements must be approved by the relevant
New Look technologist.
There may be instances where testing appropriate to a specific product is not covered in this Performance Requirements and
additional testing may be requested by the technologist.
3.1 Accredited Laboratories

All third party testing must be conducted by a New Look accredited laboratory. List of accredited third party labs by product
category and location:
Accredited Lab Approved Product Categories Approved Locations Website
Intertek All products All locations https://www.intertek.com/

*New Look preferred
partner lab*
Eurofins / MTS All products All locations https://www.eurofins.com/
TUV Rhineland All products All locations https://www.tuv.com/world/en/
SGS All products All locations https://www.sgs.com/
Impaq Tech All products China Only http://www.impaq-tech.com/
Qima Sunglasses Only China Only https://www.qima.com/
Bureau Veritas Footwear and Bags Only Wenzhou and https://www.bureauveritas.co.uk/

Guangzhou Only
New Look does accept testing from accredited Mill Labs. Mill Labs must successfully meet the criteria of the New Look Mill
Lab Accreditation Process and be approved by New Look before they can be used.
3.2 Submission Procedure

All testing, certification, risk assessments, declarations of conformity and other type of documentation related to testing and
compliance must be uploaded onto the Datalink system, using electronic test request forms, component sheets, and/or
Product Approval Sheets (PAS).
Completion and upload to Datalink must be conducted in a timely manner in line with the critical path and before shipment
can be made. The supplier will be held accountable for any delays during the submission process due to any of the following
reasons:
• Testing submitted with tests missing due to lack of supplier checking against the testing tables
• Testing not submitted in a timely manner within the critical path
• Testing not submitted with enough time to react to failures
You must attempt to resolve any failed results prior to submitting them to New Look. Any unresolved failures must be
discussed with the department technologist immediately to prevent delays in production.
3.3 Validity of Testing

It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure the testing can be related to the final product.
Base test reports are valid for 12 months.
Bulk test reports and Chemical test reports are valid for 6 months.
Once the relevant test report has expired, it is the suppliers responsibility to provide a new test report for future products.

3.4 Component Mapping
A new test is not always required. New Look accept cross referencing of test reports via component mapping.
Components that are like for like (from the same original source, made and finished in the same way) can be mapped.
Component Mapping allows for one test report or certificate to be used for a component across multiple styles.
It is the suppliers’ responsibility to manage information on component use across multiple styles and suppliers will be held
accountable for not doing so. It is important to note that, if a component that is used across multiple styles fails, then every
style containing that component may need to be withdrawn from the market.
3.5 Other Retailers Test Reports

New Look will accept test reports from other retailers, if the reports have been cross checked to ensure New Look limits are
met using equivalent test methods.
3.6 New Look Preferred Suppliers

New Look will not require submission of test results from preferred suppliers detailed in section 1.9 of the New Look Supplier
Manual. If a supplier is not in section 1.9 of the supplier manual, they are not New Look preferred.

4 Performance Standards and Testing Tables

This section explains the performance standards testing tables and the tick box (X) format.
Base
These tests represent the physical properties of the fabric and should be carried out on the correct quality that is intended to
be used in bulk production. The fabric tested should be from the same Mill to the agreed weight, correct fibre composition
and construction. Where base testing is conducted, it is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure bulk production performs to
the same standard.
Bulk
These tests should be conducted on all final fabric or final garment (depending on testing table). The fabric must be the
correct quality and colour and have the appliable wash, finish or print applied.
Small Order
For orders under 2000 units, New Look permits the use of small order testing.
An order is considered small when a base quality is used for under 2000 units. When small order testing is not permitted, and
full testing is needed:
• When a combination of small orders and/or additional colours of the same base fabric exceed 2000 units
• When orders are repeated, and total units exceed 2000 units
• When the base fabric is used across multiple departments and total units exceed 2000 units
The supplier is responsible for tracking all base qualities and informing New Look when small order testing needs to be
converted into full testing.
It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure New Looks base and bulk requirements are still met and all fabrics meets our
standards, even though testing relief is given for small orders.
Small order testing must be conducted by a 3rd party lab and consists of:
• Fibre Composition
• USA flammability
• Pilling
• Colour fastness to Dry Rub
• Appearance After Wash. It is imperative an Appearance After Wash test completed on small orders because this
test will assess dimensional stability, spirality, CF to washing, cross staining, pilling and seam openings after wash.
• Some testing tables require extra physical tests for small orders too.
There may be some instances where additional tests are required on small orders at the request of the technologist.
Note – Small order testing is not permitted for NL 07 Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear & Beachwear and full testing must be
carried out.
Additional Colour
Where the same fabric is being used (same Mill, Weight, Fibre Composition, and Construction) but in a different colour, some
testing tables require additional physical tests, and all tables require additional colour fastness tests to be performed.
Approval provided by one department may not be appropriate in another department and does not guarantee
acceptance. Also, if a commercial acceptance is provided from one department or due to the fact the order is a small
order, this does not guarantee the same commercial allowance will be accepted by another department, on a repeat or a
full-size order. It is the supplier’s responsibility to clarify the requirements with the relevant technologist at the time of the
order and to advise if marginal results have been previously accepted, and the supplier will be held accountable for not
doing so.

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
PERFORMANCE STANDARD
Base
Bulk
NL 01 - Woven Lightweight (less than 150gm²)
Test name Test Method Requirement

CHEMICALS
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol Extraction in acetone or Total APs: 10 ppm X X
methanol GC/MS, sonication
ethoxylates (APEOs)
for 30 minutes at 60 degrees C
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite tests permitted for Total APs +
are acceptable instead of test up to 3 components APEOs: 100 ppm
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3 X X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up 20ppm
are acceptable instead of test to 3 components
75ppm X X
Only test on:
Formaldehyde EN ISO 14184-1
Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up
/ Easy care and Non-iron /
are acceptable instead of test to 3 components Pigment print, binders and
coatings
pH Value ISO 3071 X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite testing is not 4-7.5
are acceptable instead of test permitted
PHYSICALS
+/-3% for Laboratory Test x X
+/-1% on elastane blends.
Fibre Composition & Labelling EU Regulation
No tolerance on single
Suppliers are responsible for ensuring 1007/2011/EC
fibres.
that care label complies to NLRM008 Recommendation -
Results must be recorded in
Must be tested at 3rd Party Laboratory NLRM008
line with NLRM008 in
section 4.3B
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 +/-5% of stated weight X
Woven: +/-3% X
100% viscose: +/-7%
Dimensional Stability to Washing Viscose blends: +/-5%
4N Wash BS EN ISO 6330 For viscose & viscose blends
Dry as per care label results should be recorded
before & after ironing.
If recovers the result should
be a pass
Flammability X X
Only non-exempt fabrics require
testing. The exempt fabrics are: If applicable: Class 1
• Plain surface fabrics only weighing Plain surface fabrics:
88.2g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2) or more. Average flame spread time
• Plain or raised surface fabrics, Flammability Fabrics Act should not be less than 3.5s
regardless of weight, made 1953
entirely from or entirely from Raised surface fabric:
combinations of the following 16 CFR 1610 Average flame spread time
fibres: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, should not be less than 4s
Olefin, Polyester, Wool & and there should be no base
Polyamide burn
• Interlining fabric used between
outer layer and lining

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 01 - Woven Lightweight, less than 150gm²

BS EN ISO 13936 – 1 @ 6 mm opening, X
Seam Slippage
(Fixed opening) requirement min 8 kg
Seam Slippage X
BS EN 13936 -2 (Fixed load) <6mm@8kg
(Woven stretch fabrics)
BS EN ISO 13935 – 2 X
Seam Strength 9kg
(Grab method)
X
Tensile Strength
BS EN ISO 13934-2 (Grab 12kg for
Not required on broderie or cutwork
method) lightweight/delicate
components
Tear Strength Fabrics under 100gm² = X

Not required for 100% filament nylon 600g
or polyester (except micro-fibre and Broderie &/or cutwork (any
brushed or emerised fabrics) BS EN ISO 13937-1 gm²) = 600g
In stretch fabrics, the test is only X
required in the direction that does not Fabrics between 101gm² -
contain elastane 150gm² = 750g
3-4@2,000revs X X
Brushed fabrics:
Pilling Resistance 3@2,000revs
BS EN ISO 12945-2:2020
Test not applicable to fabrics made of Record result @500revs &
Martindale
100% filament yarn @1,000revs
Observe & record if pile loss
occurs
10,000 rubs X
Abrasion Resistance
BS EN ISO 12947 Shade change 3 @ 6000
Required on trousers only
rubs
Stretch & Recovery X
BS EN ISO 20932 - 1 (3kg 90% Recovery after 1 min &
Only required on fabrics containing
load) after 30 mins
elastane
COLOUR FASTNESS
BS EN ISO 105: C06 X X
Colour Fastness to Washing Change & staining 4
Washed A2S@40
Cross-staining 4-5
Use Lyo W MFS
Colour Fastness to Rubbing X X X
Not required on white or cream BS EN ISO 105: X12 Dry 4; Wet 3-4
components
Colour Fastness to Water X X
BS EN ISO 105: E01 Change 4 & staining 4
Not required on white or cream
Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining 4-5
components
Colour Fastness to Perspiration X X X
(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04 Change 4 & staining 4
Not required on white or cream Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining 4-5
components

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 01 - Woven Lightweight, less than 150gm²

APPEARANCE AFTER WASH
Appearance After Wash (or Dry Clean) X X X
Assessment
Required in the following
circumstances:
- Contrast colours within a style
New Look In-House Test
- Contrast fabrics within a style NL IHTM 01
Method: Pass
- Trims present
- Process is applied during production
e.g. printing/ acid wash/ garment
burnout/etc.
- Small order (under 2000 units)
Add Performance Standard NL 11 for Linings & Pocketing

Add Performance Standard NL 12 for Embellishments, Trims & Zips
Add Performance Standard NL 13 Marketing & Performance Claims
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 02 - Woven Medium (151gm²- 279gm²) and Heavy (280gm² and over) Weight

CHEMICALS
Extraction in acetone or X X
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol methanol GC/MS, sonication Total APs: 10 ppm
ethoxylates (APEOs) for 30 minutes at 60 degrees
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates C Total APs +
are acceptable instead of test Composite tests permitted APEOs: 100 ppm
for up to 3 components
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3 X X X
75ppm X X
Formaldehyde EN ISO 14184-1 Only test on:
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets /
are acceptable instead of test to 3 components Easy care and Non-iron / Pigment
print, binders and coatings
pH Value ISO 3071 X X
PHYSICALS
+/-3% for Laboratory Test X X
Fibre Composition & Labelling EU Regulation +/-1% on elastane blends.
Suppliers are responsible for ensuring 1007/2011/EC No tolerance on single fibres.
that care label complies to NLRM008 Recommendation - Results must be recorded in
Must be tested at 3rd Party Laboratory NLRM008 line with NLRM008 in section
4.3B
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 +/-5% of stated weight X
Woven: +/-3% X
100% viscose: +/-7%

Viscose blends: +/-5%
Dimensional Stability to Washing
Viscose and Viscose blends
4N Wash BS EN ISO 6330
should be
Dry as per care label
recorded before and after
ironing. If
recovers the result should be
a pass.
X X
Flammability
• Plain surface fabrics only weighing Plain surface fabrics: Average
88.2g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2) or more. flame spread time should not
• Plain or raised surface fabrics, be less than 3.5s
Flammability Fabrics Act
regardless of weight, made
1953
entirely from or entirely from Raised surface fabric: Average
16 CFR 1610
combinations of the following flame spread time should not
fibres: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, be less than 4s and there
Olefin, Polyester, Wool & should be no base burn
Polyamide

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
PERFORMANCE STANDARD NL 02
Base
Bulk

151gsm - 279gsm = @ 6mm opening, X
requirement minimum 10kg
BS EN ISO 13936 – 1
Seam Slippage
(Fixed Opening)
280gsm and over = @ 6mm opening,
requirement minimum 12kg
151gsm - 279gsm = <6mm@10kg X
Seam Slippage BS EN 13936 -2 (Fixed
(Woven stretch fabrics) Load)
280gsm and over = <6mm@12kg
151gsm - 279gsm = 12kg X
Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935 – 2
280gsm and over = 15kg
151gsm - 279gsm = 15kg X
BS EN ISO 13934-2
Tensile Strength
(Grab method)
Tear Strength X
Not required for 100% filament nylon or 151gsm - 279gsm = 1000g
polyester (except micro-fibre and brushed
BS EN ISO 13937-1
or emerised fabrics)
In stretch fabrics, the test is only required in 280gsm and over = 1200g
the direction that does not contain elastane
3-4 @2,000 revs X X
Pilling Resistance BS EN ISO 12945- Brushed fabrics: 3 @2,000revs
Not applicable to fabrics made of 2:2020 Record result @500revs &
100% filament yarn Martindale @1,000revs
Observe & record if pile loss occurs
15,000 rubs X
Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 12947 Linen & linen blends: 12,000 rubs
Shade change 3 @ 6,000 rubs
BS EN ISO 20932 – 1 90% recovery after 1 min & after 30
Only required on fabrics containing
(3kg load) mins
elastane
COLOUR FASTNESS
BS EN ISO 105: C06 X X
Change& staining 4
Colour Fastness to Washing Washed A2S@40
Cross-staining :4-5
Use Lyo W MFS
components
X X
Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105: E01
Change & staining 4
Not required on white or cream Use Lyo W MFS
Cross-staining 4-5
components

(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04 Change & staining 3-4
Not required on white or cream Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining 4-5
components

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
PERFORMANCE STANDARD NL 02
Base
Bulk

APPEARANCE AFTER WASH TESTING
Appearance After Wash (or Dry X X X
Clean) Assessment
circumstances:
- Contrast fabrics within a style NL IHTM 01 New Look In-House Test Method:
- Trims present Pass
- Process is applied during
production
burnout/etc.

Add Performance Standard NL 13 for Marketing & Performance Claims
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
NL 03 - Denim, Twill Weave, weight over 8½Oz/yd or 280gm²
Bulk
All tests must be carried out in garment form, finished to the agreed level of finish, colour and
handle. *Note there is no base test requirement for NL 03. All tests to be done on bulk.

CHEMICALS
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol methanol GC/MS, Total APs: 10 ppm
ethoxylates (APEOs) sonication for 30 minutes
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates at 60 degrees C Total APs +
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
Not required on white components
Composites permitted, up 20ppm
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates
to 3 components
are acceptable instead of test
Formaldehyde X X X
EN ISO 14184-1
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® Class 1
certificates are acceptable instead of
to 3 components
test
pH Value ISO 3071 X X X
PHYSICALS
X X
+/-3% for Laboratory Test
Fibre Composition & Labelling +/-1% on elastane blends.
EU Regulation 1007/2011
Suppliers are responsible for ensuring No tolerance on single fibres.
Recommendation -
that care label complies to NLRM008 Results must be recorded in
NLRM008
Must be tested at 3rd Party Laboratory line with NLRM008 in section
4.3B
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 +/-5% of stated weight
Flammability X X
1953
16 CFR 1610
Polyamide

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Bulk

BS EN ISO 13936–1 @ 6mm opening, requirement X
Seam Slippage
(Fixed Opening) minimum 12kg
Seam Slippage BS EN 13936 -2 (Fixed X
<6mm @ 12kg
BS EN ISO 13935 – 2 X
Seam Strength (Garment or production 15kg
seam)
X
Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934–1 20Kg
Tear Strength X
Not required for 100% filament nylon
or polyester (except micro-fibre and
brushed or emerised fabrics) BS EN ISO 13937-1 1800g
In stretch fabrics, the test is only
required in the direction that does not
contain elastane
19,000 rubs X
Shade change required on
Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 12947 black only
Shade change 3-4 @ 6,000
rubs
Stretch & Recovery X X X
Only applicable to fabrics containing
elastane BS EN ISO 20932-1 (3kg 90% recovery after 1 min &
For recommended extension ranges by load) after 30 mins
style – Refer to the New Look
Technologist
COLOUR FASTNESS
X X
To be assessed during
Colour Fastness to Washing N/A
Appearance After Wash Test
X X X
Colour Fastness to Rubbing Adult denim: Dry 3-4
Not applicable for non-dyed, bleached, BS EN ISO 105:X12
whites, creams or ivory 915 Children’s: Dry 4, Wet 3

BS EN ISO 105: E01 Change & staining: 4
Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining: 4-5
components
(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04 Change: 4
Not required on white or cream Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining: 4-5
components

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Bulk

X X X
Appearance After Wash Assessment New Look In-House Test
NL IHTM 01
Required for all denim styles & colours Method: Pass

Add Performance Standard NL 13 for Marketing & Performance Claims
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 04 - Jersey, Knitwear and Knitted Outerwear

CHEMICAL
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol methanol GC/MS, sonication Total APs: 10 ppm
ethoxylates (APEOs) for 30 minutes at 60 degrees
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates C Total APs +
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
Not required on white components
to 3 components
Formaldehyde 75ppm X X
EN ISO 14184-1 Only test on:
Composites permitted, up Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets /
certificates are acceptable instead of Easy care and Non-iron / Pigment
to 3 components
test print, binders and coatings
pH Value X X
ISO 3071
Composite testing is not 4-7.5
certificates are acceptable instead of
permitted
test
PHYSICALS
Fibre Composition & Labelling EU Regulation +/-1% on elastane blends.
Suppliers are responsible for ensuring 1007/2011/EC No tolerance on single fibres.
that care label complies to NLRM008 Recommendation - Results must be recorded in
Must be tested at 3rd Party Laboratory NLRM008 line with NLRM008 in section
4.3B
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) Knit +/-5% of stated weight
≤5 gauge: +/-5% of stated X

Weigh garment in grams
weight
Garment Weight for True Knitwear on a calibrated balance
Ensure sealing size is tested with an accuracy of at
>5 gauge: -5%/ +10% of stated
least 1g.
weight
True Knit: To be assessed in X
garment form during
Appearance After Wash Test.
Jersey: +/- 5%
100% viscose: +/-7%

4G wash BS EN ISO 6330
should be recorded before
and after ironing. If recovers
the result should be a pass.
Rib constructions may require

a reshape to return to original
dimensions

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

X X
Flammability
1953
16 CFR 1610
Polyamide
X X
3-4@500revs
Brushed jersey fabrics only:

Pilling Resistance
BS EN ISO 12945-2:2020 3@500revs
Not applicable to fabrics made of
Martindale
100% filament yarn.
Record result @250revs
occurs
Fabric: BS ISO 16322 – 2 X

Procedure C
Spirality
Less than 5%
Single jersey only
Garment: BS ISO 16322-3
Procedure B
X
250kpa
Bursting Strength
BS EN ISO 13938-2 Lace and crochet fabrics and
Not required on fabrics containing
components – Do not need to
elastane
test.
X
Test after 1 and 30 minutes,
Stretch & Recovery define pass/ fail after 30mins
only:
Only applicable for weft knitted fabrics 90% Recovery for Polyester/
BS EN ISO 20932 – 1 (1.5kg
containing elastane Viscose/ Nylon based fabrics
load)
85% Recovery for cotton-
For seam free garments conduct on rib based fabrics
band and middle of body section. 80% Recovery for jersey
jacquard only

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

COLOUR FASTNESS
X X
BS EN ISO 105: C06
Change & staining 4
Cross-staining: 4-5
Use Lyo W MFS
X X
Colour Fastness to Water
components

Dry and Wet
For ribbed or textured construction or
finishes, testing also required on the Dry 4: Wet 3-4
BS EN ISO 105: X12
back of the fabric.

components
X X X
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04 Change & staining: 4
Not required on bleached/ faded/ tie- Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining 4-5
dye, white and cream fabrics
Colour Fastness to Light X X

ISO 105 B02
Outerwear Only – Supplier to inform Grade 3
Method 2 modified BWS 4
lab on E-TRF.
APPEARANCE AFTER WASH TEST
X X X
Appearance After Wash (or Dry Clean)
Assessment
circumstances:
- Contrast fabrics within a style NL IHTM 01
Method: Pass
- Trims present
- Process is applied during production
burnout/etc.
Add Performance Standard NL08 Artificial Fur Pile Fabric, Component and Trims (pile more than 3mm height)
Add Performance Standard NL 13 Marketing & Performance Claims
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 05 - Coats and Jackets (excluding Knitted Outerwear)

CHEMICALS
X X
Extraction in acetone or
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol methanol GC/MS, Total APs: 10 ppm
ethoxylates (APEOs) sonication for 30 minutes
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates at 60 degrees C Total APs +
X X X
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3
75ppm
X X
Formaldehyde EN ISO 14184-1 Only test on:
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets /
are acceptable instead of test to 3 components Easy care and Non-iron / Pigment
print, binders and coatings
X X
pH Value ISO 3071
PHYSICALS
X X
Fibre Composition & Labelling
Suppliers are responsible for EU Regulation
ensuring that care label complies to 1007/2011/EC
No tolerance on single fibres.
NLRM008 Recommendation -
Results must be recorded in line
Must be tested at 3rd Party NLRM008
with NLRM008 in section 4.3B
Laboratory
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) +/-5% of stated weight
X
Woven: +/-3%
100% viscose: +/-7%

should be recorded before and
after ironing. If recovers the
result should be a pass.
X
Dimensional Stability to Dry
Cleaning 1 x Commercial Cycle +/- 3%
Only applicable to dry clean product.

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

X X
Flammability
testing. The exempt fabrics are:
If applicable: Class 1
• Plain surface fabrics only
Plain surface fabrics: Average
weighing 88.2g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2)
flame spread time should not
or more.
be less than 3.5s
• Plain or raised surface fabrics, Flammability Fabrics Act
regardless of weight, made 1953
Raised surface fabric: Average
entirely from or entirely from 16 CFR 1610
flame spread time should not
combinations of the following
be less than 4s and there
fibres: Acrylic, Modacrylic,
should be no base burn
Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool &
Polyamide
Surface Flash X X
BS 4569 PASS
Not required on Mod-Acrylic blends
BS EN ISO 13936 – 1 6mm, requirement minimum X

Seam Slippage
(Fixed Opening) 12kg
X
<6mm@12kg
<279gsm = 12kg X
Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935 – 2
X
Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 – 1 20kg
<150gsm = 750g X
Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1 151gsm to 279gsm - 1000g
280gsm and over = 1200g

X X
3-4@2,000revs
Brushed fabrics: 3@2,000revs
Pilling Resistance BS EN ISO 12945-2:2020
Record result @500revs &
Not applicable to fabrics made of Martindale
@1,000revs
100% filament yarn.
occurs
20,000 rubs X
Linen & linen blends: 12,000
Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 12947
rubs
Shade change 3@ 6,000 rubs

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

WADDED OUTERWEAR – FEATHER and DOWN OR SYNETHTIC
Mark whether Goose (land X X
Test method - Garments
fowl), Duck (water fowl), or un-
with Feathers: Species
known.
Identification BS EN 1885
Species Identification If un-known please comment –
Annex B (IDFB Part 12-
(Feather and Down filled products ‘Further investigation is
2015)
only) required by the supplier to
Recommendation -
identify the animal origin’.
NLRM008
10g of feather is required
with NLRM008 in section 4.3B
Must comply with mandatory X X
Hygiene and Cleanliness
requirements – Test to BS EN
Specification
BS EN 12935: 2001 1162:1997 Oxygen index –
(Feather and Down filled products
acceptable less than 20.
only)
20-50 test to EN 1884.
Feather Labelling X X
(Feather and Down filled products BS EN 12934 Must comply.
only)
Feather Composition State composition analysis. X X
(Feather and Down filled products BS EN 12131:2018 Splits out all the different
only) components.
If more than 6 fibres longer X X
than 2mm penetrate either side
Wadding Migration NL IHTM 05 of the cushion (outer and lining)
the test should be reported as
fail.
Report the number of fibres X X
migrating through the fabric for
Fibre Percolation NL IHTM 06 each specimen.
If in excess of 50, report as
"50+”
COLOUR FASTNESS
Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105: C06 Change &staining: 4 X X
Washed A2S@40 Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining :4-5
X X
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning Change & staining 4
BS EN ISO 105: D01
Only applicable to dry clean product Cross-staining: 4-5

Not required on while or cream BS EN ISO 105: X12 Dry 4, Wet 3
components
components
(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04 Change &staining: 4
Not required on white or cream Use Lyo W MFS Cross staining: 4-5
components
ISO 105 B02 X X
Colour Fastness to Light Grade 3
Method 2 modified BWS 4

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

X X X
Appearance After Wash (or Dry
Clean) Assessment
circumstances:
- Contrast fabrics within a style New Look In-House Test
NL IHTM 01
- Trims present Method: Pass
production
burnout/etc.
Add Performance Standard NL09 Artificial Leather, Polyurethane, Polyvinylchloride, Face Coated Fabrics, Components & Trims
Add Performance Standard NL10 Leather, Suede, Nubuck & Hair-on Skins
Add Performance Standard NL11 Linings & Pocketing
Add Performance Standard NL12 Embellishments, Trims & Zips
Add Performance Standard NL13 Marketing & Performance Claims
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 06 - Nightwear - Knitted and Woven

CHEMICALS
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl Extraction in acetone or X X
Total APs: 10 ppm
phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) methanol GC/MS, sonication for
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® 30 minutes at 60 degrees C
Total APs +
certificates are acceptable Composite tests permitted for
APEOs: 100 ppm
instead of test up to 3 components
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX®
Composites permitted, up to 3 20ppm
certificates are acceptable
components
instead of test
Formaldehyde X X X
EN ISO 14184-1
components
instead of test
pH Value X X X
ISO 3071
permitted
instead of test
NIGHTWEAR FLAMMABILITY
UK - Nightwear (Safety) No Testing needed. X X
Adult Flammability
Regulations 1985 (SI No 2043) Label needs KAFF.
X X
915 Flammability Performance
UK - Nightwear (Safety)
of Fabrics
Regulations 1985 (SI No 2043)
Required on 915 nightdress,
nightshirts and dressing gowns. Pass
BS 5722
100% Cotton or Cotton blends
Test must be conducted in
are not permitted for this
finished garment form
product as they will not pass
X X
915 Burning Behaviour of Pass to Class A.
BS EN 14878
Children’s Nightwear Any Class B or lower results
Test must be conducted in
Required on 915 Pyjama’s, vest & must be immediately flagged
finished garment form
boxer shorts. to the 915 Tech by supplier.
Flammability X X
• Plain surface fabrics only If applicable: Class 1
weighing 88.2g/m2 (2.6 Plain surface fabrics: Average
oz/yd2) or more. flame spread time should not
• Plain or raised surface be less than 3.5s
fabrics, regardless of weight, Flammability Fabrics Act 1953
made entirely from or 16 CFR 1610 Raised surface fabric: Average
entirely from combinations flame spread time should not
of the following fibres: be less than 4s and there
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, should be no base burn
Olefin, Polyester, Wool &
Polyamide
Interlining fabric used between

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

PHYSICALS
Fibre Composition & Labelling X X
Suppliers are responsible for EU Regulation
ensuring that care label 1007/2011/EC
No tolerance on single fibres.
complies to NLRM008 Recommendation -
Results must be recorded in line with
Must be tested at 3rd Party NLRM008
NLRM008 in section 4.3B
Laboratory
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) +/-5%
Weigh garment in grams X

Garment Weight for True ≤5 gauge: +/-5% of stated weight
on a calibrated balance
Knitwear >5 gauge: -5%/ +10% of stated
with an accuracy of at
Ensure sealing size is tested weight
least 1g.
Woven: +/-3% X
Jersey: +/-5%
True Knit: To be assessed in garment
form in Appearance After Wash Test.
100% viscose: +/-7%

Dimensional Stability to
Washing
BS EN ISO 6330 Viscose and viscose blends should be
4N Wash
recorded before and after ironing.
If recovers the result should be a
pass.
Rib constructions may require a

reshape to return to original
dimensions
Test after 1 & 30 minutes, define X
pass/ fail after 30 only:
Stretch & Recovery 90% Recovery for polyester, viscose,
Only applicable for knitted BS EN ISO 20932 – 1 (1.5kg nylon-based fabrics
fabrics containing elastane load) 85% Recovery for cotton-based
fabrics
80% Recovery for jersey jacquard
only
Woven: 3-4@2,000revs X X
Pilling Resistance Brushed Fabrics: 3@2,000revs
For ribbed or textured Record result @500revs &
construction or finishes, testing @1,000revs
also required on the back of the BS EN ISO 12945-2:2020 Observe & record if pile loss occurs
fabric Martindale
Knitted: 3-4@500revs
Not applicable to fabrics made Brushed fabric: 3@500revs
of 100% filament yarn. Record result @250revs
Observe & record if pile loss occurs

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

BS EN ISO 13936 – 1 (Fixed X
Seam Slippage 6mm, requirement minimum 10 kg
Opening)
X
<6mm @ 10kg
BS EN ISO 20932 – 1 (3kg
Only required on woven fabrics 90% Recovery after 1 min
load)
containing elastane
X
Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934 – 1 15kg
Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935 – 2 12kg X
Tear Strength X
Not required for 100% filament
nylon or polyester (except
micro-fibre and brushed or
BS EN ISO 13937-1 1000g
emerised fabrics)
In stretch fabrics, the test is
only required in the direction
that does not contain elastane.
15,000 rubs X
Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 12947 Linen & linen blends: 12,000 rubs
Shade change 3 @ 6,000 rubs
Procedure C
Spirality
Less than 5%
Single jersey only
Garment: BS ISO 16322-3
Procedure B
Bursting Strength 250kpa X
Not required on fabrics BS EN ISO 13938-2 Lace and crochet fabrics and
containing elastane components – Do not need to test.
COLOUR FASTNESS
BS EN ISO 105: C06 Change & staining: 4 X X
Colour Fastness to Washing Washed A2S@40 Cross-staining: 4-5
Use Lyo W MFS Contrasting fabrics: 5
BS EN ISO 105: E01 Change & staining 4-5
Use Lyo W MFS Cross-staining: 5
components
(Acid & Alkali)
ISO 105 E04 Change & staining: 4
Not required on bleached,
Use Lyo W MFS Cross staining: 4-5
faded, tie-dye, white and cream
components
Fabric face and back to be tested Dry 4
BS EN ISO 105: X12
Not required on white or cream Wet: 3-4
components

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk

Appearance After Wash X X X
Assessment
circumstances: 4N Wash
- Multiple parts within a style
made of different fabrics, this
includes lining
NL IHTM 01 New Look In-House Test Method:
- Different colours of fabric
Pass
within a style even if they are
the same fabric
- Trim’s present
production e.g. printing/acid
wash/garment burnout/etc.
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

Additional Colour
NL 07- Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear and Beachwear (Including Intimate Linings)
Base
Bulk
There is no small order testing for NL 07. All tests to be done on all orders.

CHEMICALS
Extraction in acetone or X
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl phenol Total APs: 10 ppm
methanol GC/MS, sonication for
ethoxylates (APEOs)
30 minutes at 60 degrees C
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates are Total APs +
Composite tests permitted for up
acceptable instead of test APEOs: 100 ppm
to 3 components
X X
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates are Composites permitted, up to 3 20ppm
acceptable instead of test components
X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates are Composites permitted, up to 3 75ppm
acceptable instead of test components
X X
pH Value ISO 3071
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates are Composite testing is not 4-7.5
acceptable instead of test permitted
PHYSICALS
+/-3% for Laboratory Test X
Fibre Composition & Labelling +/-1% on elastane blends.
Suppliers are responsible for ensuring EU Regulation 1007/2011/EC No tolerance on single fibres.
that care label complies to NLRM008 Recommendation - NLRM008 Results must be recorded in
Must be tested at 3rd Party Laboratory line with NLRM008 in section
4.3B
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) +/-5% of stated weight
True Knit: To be assessed in X

garment form during
Appearance After Wash Test
Jersey: +/-5%
Woven: +/-3%
100% viscose: +/-7%
For viscose & viscose blends
should be recorded before &
after ironing. If +/-3% after
ironing, then record as a pass
Rib constructions may require

a reshape to return to original
dimensions.

Additional Colour
NL 07 - Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear and Beachwear (Including Intimate Linings)
Base
Bulk

Flammability X
regardless of weight, made Flammability Fabrics Act 1953
entirely from or entirely from 16 CFR 1610 Raised surface fabric: Average
Polyamide
Woven: BS EN ISO 20932-1 95% Recovery after 1 min & X X
(3kg load) 30mins
Stretch & Recovery Test after 1min & 30 mins X X
Only applicable for fabric containing Warp knitted up to 5% elastane
elastane content Define as pass/ fail after
30min only
For seam free garments conduct on rib All weft knitted fabrics Polyester/viscose/nylon
band and middle of body section. For BS EN ISO 20932-1 bases: 90%
other types of fabric conduct as (1.5kg load) Cotton bases: 85%
normal.
Warp knitted only X X
To be tested on all colourways and BS EN ISO 20932-1 95% Recovery or lingerie after
prints at bulk stage 1 min only
(2kg load) >5%- 11% 90% Recovery for swim after 1
(2.5kg load) 12%- 20% min only
(3.5kg load) >20%
X X
BS EN ISO 20932-1
Extension & Modulus Within +/- 10% of the
Method A
Only to be tested on fabrics containing specification of the fit
elastane. confirmed fabric.
Modulus @ 40% on 2nd Cycle
Woven: 3-4@2,000revs X
Record result @500revs &
@1,000revs
Pilling Resistance Observe and record if pile loss
Not required on fabrics made of 100% BS EN ISO 12945-2:2020 occurs
filament yarn. Martindale
Knitted: 3-4@500revs
Record result @250revs
Observe and record if pile loss
occurs

Additional Colour
Base
Bulk

Spirality Procedure C
Required on single jersey beachwear ≤5%
only Garment: BS ISO 16322-3
Procedure B
250kpa X
Bursting Strength
Lace and crochet fabrics and
Not required on fabrics containing BS EN ISO 13938-2
components – Do not need to
elastane
test.
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936 – 1 (Fixed 6mm, requirement minimum X
Woven beachwear, and woven lingerie Opening) 8 kg
Seam Slippage X
BS EN 13936-2
Woven beachwear, and woven lingerie <6mm@8kg
(Fixed Load)
(Stretch fabrics)
Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 (Grab 12kg X
Woven only Method)
Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935 – 2 (Grab X
9kg
Woven only Method)
Tear Strength X
Woven only
Not required for 100% filament nylon

or polyester (except micro-fibre and BS EN 13937 - 1 600g
brushed or emerised fabrics)
In stretch fabrics, the test is only
required in the direction that does not
contain elastane
COLOUR FASTNESS
Change & staining 4 X X
BS EN ISO 105: C06
Neon/fluorescent shades
change & staining 3-4
Use Lyo W MFS
Contrasting fabrics: 5
Colour Fastness to Water
BS EN ISO 105: E01 Neon/fluorescent shades
Not required on for white and cream
Use Lyo W MFS change & staining 3-4
components
Cross-staining 5
Colour Fastness to Rubbing X X
Dry 4
Not required on for white and cream BS EN ISO 105: X12
Wet 3-4
components
Colour Fastness to Perspiration X X
(Acid & Alkali) ISO 105 E04
Change & staining 4
Not applicable to bleached, faded, tie- Use Lyo W MFS
dye or white and cream components

Additional Colour
Base
Bulk

Colour Fastness to Light ISO 105 B02 Change: 4 X X
Swimwear and beachwear only Method 2 modified BWS 4 Neon/fluorescent: 3
BS EN IS0 105 -E03 X X
Use Lyo W MFS
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water Change: 4
Swimwear and beachwear only Chlorine concentration: Neon & Fluorescent: 3
50mg/l Swimwear
20mg/l Beachwear
Colour Fastness to Sea Water BS EN ISO 105 -E02 Neon & fluorescent shades,
Swimwear and beachwear only Use Lyo W MFS change & staining 3-4
Cross-staining 5
Phenolic Yellowing X X
Only required for white and cream
BS EN ISO 105 X18 Colour Stain: 4
outer fabrics and on white foam
(Foam test valid for 6months)
X X
Appearance After Wash Assessment New Look In-House Test
NL IHTM 01
Required for all styles and colours Method: Pass
Specific Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear and Beachwear Trim Testing
Salt Water Corrosion EN ISO 22775:

Corrosion & Tarnishing: 4
Only applicable to metal components Method 2- 2004
Tensile Strength New Look In-House Test Method: Pass, Valid

NL INTM 02
Clasps, rings, sliders and hooks for 6 months
New Look In-House Test Method: Pass, Valid

Heat Conductivity of Metal Trims NL INTM 03
for 6 months
Puncture Resistance of Bra Wire New Look In-House Test Method: Pass, Valid
NL INTM 04
Casing for 6 months
Elastics Various See next page for performance requirements.


Specific Lingerie, Underwear, Swimwear and Beachwear Elastic Testing
PHYSICALS – Test all colourways

Width (mm) Extension (%) Modulus (g)
8 125 -175 100 –190
10 125 –175 150 –280
Extension @ 2.5kg 12 125 –175 180 –300
Woven Cycle 14 125 – 175 200 –380
Elastics Load (%) 16 125 – 175 230 – 400
Modulus @ 40% (g) 18 125 – 175 250 - 420
20 125 – 175 270 - 450
25 125 – 175 300 - 490
30 125 – 175 320 - 530
Extension @ 2.5kg
Woven 16 135 – 165 100 – 190
Cycle
Fold-over 18 135 – 165 120 – 220
Load (%)
Elastics 20 135 – 165 150 – 280
Modulus @ 40% (g)
24 135 – 165 180 - 300
BS EN ISO 20932 Width (mm) Extension (%) Modulus (g)
–3 6 120 – 180 82 – 112
8 120 – 180 96 – 120
Speed: Extension @ 1.5kg 10 120 – 180 110 – 150
Knitted 500mm/min Cycle 12 120 – 180 120 - 160
Elastics Load (%) 14 120 – 180 130 - 170
Gauge Length: Modulus @ 40% (g) 16 120 – 180 140 – 180
100mm
20 120 – 180 150 – 200
Test cycles: 5 25 120 – 180 160 – 300
30 120 – 180 170 - 330
Cycle Loading: Width (mm) Extension (%) Modulus (g)
See standard 8 135 - 180 100 – 160
10 135 – 180 140 – 220
15 135 – 180 180 – 300
Extension @ 1.5kg 20 135 – 180 200 – 350
Knitted
Cycle 25 135 – 180 300 – 530
Insert
Load (%)
Elastics 30 135 – 180 330 – 580
Modulus @ 40% (g)
35 135 – 180 360 – 600
40 135 – 180 400 – 700
45 135 – 180 420 – 715
50 135 – 180 500 - 900
Shoulder 10 60 – 80 450–1000
Extension @ 3.6kg
Strapping 13 60 – 80 600–1200
Cycle Load (%)
– Lingerie 16 60 – 80 750–1400
Modulus @ 40% (g)
19 60 – 80 900–1600
23 60 – 80 1050-1800
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 08 - Artificial Fur Fabric, Components and Trim (pile greater than 3mm)
Artificial Fur Garments Must Be Tested In Garment Form

CHEMICALS
Extraction in acetone or methanol Total APs: 10 ppm X X
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl
GC/MS, sonication for 30 minutes
phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) at 60 degrees C
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite tests permitted for up
Total APs +
are acceptable instead of test to 3 components APEOs: 100 ppm
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
components
instead of test
75ppm X X
Formaldehyde Only test on:
EN ISO 14184-1
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets
Composites permitted, up to 3
certificates are acceptable / Easy care and Non-iron /
components Pigment print, binders and
instead of test
coatings
pH Value X X
ISO 3071
permitted
instead of test
PHYSICALS
Suppliers are responsible for
No tolerance on single
ensuring that care label complies EU Regulation 1007/2011/EC
fibres.
to NLRM008 Recommendation - NLRM008
Results must be recorded in
Must be tested at 3rd Party
line with NLRM008 in
Laboratory
section 4.3B
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) +/-5% of stated weight X
Dimensional Stability to Washing X

BS EN ISO 6330 +/-5%
4N Wash / Dry as per care label
Flammability X X
• Plain surface fabrics only If applicable: Class 1
weighing 88.2g/m2 (2.6 Plain surface fabrics:
oz/yd2) or more. Average flame spread time
• Plain or raised surface should not be less than 3.5s
fabrics, regardless of weight,
Flammability Fabrics Act 1953
made entirely from or Raised surface fabric:
16 CFR 1610
entirely from combinations Average flame spread time
of the following fibres: should not be less than 4s
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, and there should be no base
Olefin, Polyester, Wool & burn
Polyamide
• Interlining fabric used
between outer layer and
lining
Surface Flash X X
Not required on Mod-Acrylic BS 4569 PASS
blends
(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 08 - Artificial Fur Fabric, Components and Trim (pile greater than 3mm)
Artificial Fur Garments Must Be Tested In Garment Form

COLOUR FASTNESS
X X
BS EN ISO 105: C06
Change & staining 4
Cross-staining 4-5
Use Lyo W MFS

Appearance After Wash (or Dry New Look In-House Test X X X
NL IHTM 01
Clean) Assessment Method: Pass
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 09 - Artificial Leather, Polyurethane (PU), Polyvinylchloride (PVC)
Face Coated Fabrics, Components & Trims

CHEMICAL
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl Extraction in acetone or X X
Total APs: 10 ppm
phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) methanol GC/MS, sonication for
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® 30 minutes at 60 degrees C
Total APs +
certificates are acceptable Composite tests permitted for
APEOs: 100 ppm
instead of test up to 3 components
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
components
instead of test
Cadmium Total X X X
DIN EN 16711-1:2016 100ppm for Adult’s
Composite tests permitted for
up to 3 components 40ppm for 915 Children’s
instead of test
Total Digestion Method X X X
Microwave Digestion followed
by EN ISO 17294-2
Lead Total
Lead in surface coatings ≤90ppm
CPSA section 101 16 CFR 1303
instead of test
followed by EN ISO 17294-2
up to 3 components
Organotin Compounds X X
CEN/ISO 16179:2012
Composite tests permitted for 0.5ppm / 1ppm
up to 3 components
instead of test
pH Value X X
ISO 3071
Composite testing is not 4.0-7.5
permitted
instead of test
Phthalates X X
CPSC-CH-C1001-09.3
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® Each = <500ppm
certificates are acceptable Total = max 1000ppm
up to 3 components
instead of test
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbon X X
(PAH) 1 ppm each
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® AfPS GS 2019 All 18 PAHs - Sum of 10ppm
certificates are acceptable max
instead of test
PHYSICALS
Labelled as per result FTIR X X
Coated fabrics; polyurethane
Composition Test FTIR The full chemical name must be
Suppliers are responsible for FTIR - Fourier Transform used in the description.
ensuring that care label complies Infrared - spectroscopy analysis Do not put % quantity in front of
to NLRM008 nontextile
Materials.
with NLRM008 in section 4.3B.

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 09 - Artificial Leather, Polyurethane (PU), Polyvinylchloride (PVC)
Face Coated Fabrics, Components & Trims

PHYSICALS
X
Fabric Weight BS EN 12127 (gm²) +/-5%
Dimensional Stability to X
Woven Backing: +/- 3%
Washing BS EN ISO 6330
Knitted Backing: +/- 5%
4N Wash / Dry as per care label
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 @6mm requirement X
(Woven backing fabrics) (Fixed Opening) minimum 10kg
Seam Slippage BS EN 13936 -2 X
6mm@10kg
(Woven backing fabrics) (Fixed Load)
Tensile Strength X
BS EN ISO 13934-1 15kg
(Woven backing fabrics)
Tear Strength X
BS EN ISO 13937-1 1000g
(Woven backing fabrics)
20,000 cycles X
No surface cracking, damage
Flex Resistance BS EN ISO 5402
& separation of coating
from base fabric
COLOUR FASTNESS
Cross-staining 4-5
Colour Fastness to Washing BS EN ISO 105:C06
Washed A2S@40 Use Lyo W MFS Suede Coated Fabric
Change & staining 3 / Cross-
staining 3-4
BS EN ISO 105: E01
Not required for white and cream Change & staining 3
Use Lyo W MFS
components
Dry 3
Not required for white and cream BS EN ISO 105:X12
Wet 3 (outerwear only)
components
Change & staining 3-4
Not required for white and cream Use Lyo W MFS
components
Appearance After Wash (or Dry X X X
Clean) Assessment
circumstances:
- Contrast fabrics within a style NL IHTM 01 New Look In-House Test
- Trims present Method: Pass
production
burnout/etc.

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 10 - Leather, Suede, Nubuck and Hair-on Skins

CHEMICALS
ethoxylates (APEOs)
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Total APs +
Composite tests permitted for up
are acceptable instead of test APEOs: 100 ppm
to 3 components
Azo EN ISO 17234-1 & 2 X X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up to 3 20ppm
are acceptable instead of test components
Chromium VI EN ISO 17075-2 X X X
Chrome VI is to be tested for each After ageing if tested at source 60ᵒ
production batch and tests kept for clothing & soft accessories and 5%
3ppm after ageing
reference by suppliers. Relative humidity for 24 hrs
are acceptable instead of test Composite tests not permitted
pH Value EN ISO 4045 X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite testing is not Leather: 3.2 – 4.5
PHYSICALS
Identification, Composition & X X
Labelling
Conformance to BS EN
Ideally to be conducted in garment
Microscopic Identification 15987
form so that lab can recommend
BS EN 15987 Results must be
care label.
recorded in line with
It is the suppliers responsibility to
NLRM008 in section 4.3B
ensure that care label complies to
NLRM008
≥3kg X
Baumann Tear Strength BS EN ISO 3377 – 2 General: 20N
Trousers: 30N
X
Seam Strength BS 5131 – 5.13 10kg/ mm (100N/mm)
COLOUR FASTNESS
Change & Staining 4 X X
Contrast 4-5
Aniline leather: Change 4
Colour Fastness to Water EN ISO 11642
& Staining 3
Not applicable for white/ cream Use Lyo W MFS
Cross-staining 4-5
Nubuck & suede: change
% staining grade 3
Dry(50 Cycles): X X X
Smooth surface ≥ 3/4
Suede/nubuck surface ≥
Colour Fastness to Rubbing 3
BS EN ISO 11640:2012
Not required for white and cream Wet (25 cycles):
Smooth surface ≥ 3
Suede/nubuck surface ≥
2/3
(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 10 - Leather, Suede, Nubuck and Hair-on Skins

Appearance After Wash Assessment X X X
circumstances:
- Multiple parts within a style made
of different fabrics/ Leathers, this
includes lining
- Different colours within a style NL IHTM 01 Method: Pass
even if they are the same fabric/
Leather
- Trims present
production e.g. embossing, printing
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 11 - All Linings and Pocketing

CHEMICALS
Alkylphenols (APs) & Alkyl Extraction in acetone or methanol X X
Total APs: 10 ppm
phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) GC/MS, sonication for 30 minutes at
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® 60 degrees C
Total APs +
certificates are acceptable Composite tests permitted for up to
APEOs: 100 ppm
instead of test 3 components
Azo X X X
EN 14362-1 & -3
components
instead of test
Formaldehyde X X X
EN ISO 14184-1
components
instead of test
pH Value X X X
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® ISO 3071
4-7.5
certificates are acceptable Composite testing is not permitted
instead of test
PHYSICALS
Suppliers are responsible for
EU Regulation 1007/2011 No tolerance on single
ensuring that care label
Test method - 1007/2011/EC fibres.
complies to NLRM008
Recommendation - NLRM008 Results must be recorded
Must be tested at 3rd Party
in line with NLRM008 in
Laboratory
section 4.3B
Flammability X X
Only non-exempt fabrics
require testing. The exempt
fabrics are:
If applicable: Class 1
• Plain surface fabrics only
Plain surface fabrics:
weighing 88.2g/m2 (2.6
Average flame spread time
oz/yd2) or more.
should not be less than
• Plain or raised surface
Flammability Fabrics Act 1953 3.5s
fabrics, regardless of
weight, made entirely from
16 CFR 1610 Raised surface fabric:
or entirely from
Average flame spread time
combinations of the
should not be less than 4s
following fibres: Acrylic,
and there should be no
Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin,
base burn
Polyester, Wool &
Polyamide
Interlining fabric used between
Tensile Strength (Grab X
Method) BS EN ISO 13934-2 15kg
Woven fabrics only
6mm, requirement X
Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936–1
minimum 8 kg

(Under 2000 Units)
Additional Colour
Small Order
Base
Bulk
NL 11 - All Linings and Pocketing

Seam Slippage BS EN 13936 -2 X
<6mm @ 8kg
(Woven stretch fabrics) (Fixed Load)
Woven: BS EN ISO 20932-1 X
95% Recovery after 1 min
(3kg load)
Warp knitted up to 5% elastane Test after 1 & 30 min, code X
content pass/ fail after 30 only
Stretch & Recovery All weft knitted fabrics Polyester/viscose/nylon
Applicable to lingerie and BS EN ISO 20932-1 bases: 90%
swimwear only (1.5kg load) Cotton bases: 85%
Warp knitted only X
95% Recovery or lingerie
BS EN ISO 20932 - 1
after 1 min
(2kg load) >5%- 11%
90% Recovery for swim
(2.5kg load) 12%- 20%
after 1 min
(3.5kg load) >20%
Extension & Modulus X
Only to be tested on fabrics BS EN ISO 20932-1 Method A Within +/- 10% of the
containing elastane. specification of the fit
Applicable to lingerie and Modulus @ 40% on 2nd Cycle confirmed fabric.
swimwear only.
COLOUR FASTNESS
Not required for white and Dry 4
BS EN ISO 105: X12
cream components Wet 3 (swimwear only)

Change & staining 3-4
Not required for white and Use Lyo W MFS
cream components
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

NL 12 - Trims, Embellishments and Zips

FABRIC TRIMS – Braids, Fringing, Grosgrain, Lace, Ribbons, tassels, pom-poms etc
ethoxylates (APEOs)
up to 3 components
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3
75ppm
Only test on:
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composites permitted, up to 3
Glues and adhesives / Stiff nets / Easy care and Non-
are acceptable instead of test components iron / Pigment print, binders and coatings
pH Value ISO 3071
METAL TRIMS – Beads, buttons, metal accessories, poppers, rivets, strap adjusters etc
Total Digestion Method
by EN ISO 17294-2
Lead
Lead in surface coatings
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates ≤90ppm
up to 3 components
Cadmium DIN EN 16711-1:2016 100ppm for Adult’s
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite tests permitted for
are acceptable instead of test up to 3 components 40ppm for 915 Children’s
Nickel
EN 1811/EN12472
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates <0.5 µg/cm²/week
Composite tests not permitted
Salt Water Corrosion
Only applicable to Swimwear and EN ISO 22775, method 2 - 2004 Corrosion & tarnishing: 4
Beachwear
Heat Conductivity of Metal Trims
New Look In-House Test Method: Pass, Valid for
Only applicable to Swimwear and NL INTM 03
6 months
Beachwear
HARD PLASTIC TRIMS – Beads, Buttons, heat seals, plastic poppers and strap adjusters etc
by EN ISO 17294-2
Lead
Lead in surface coatings
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates ≤90ppm
up to 3 components
Cadmium DIN EN 16711-1:2016 100ppm for Adult’s



SOFT PLASTIC TRIMS – PU, Plastisol etc
ethoxylates (APEOs)
up to 3 components
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3

Cadmium Total DIN EN 16711-1:2016 100ppm for Adult’s


by EN ISO 17294-2
Lead Total
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Lead in surface coatings ≤90ppm
are acceptable instead of test CPSA section 101 16 CFR 1303
up to 3 components
Organotin Compounds CEN/ISO 16179:2012

Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates Composite tests permitted for 0.5ppm / 1ppm
are acceptable instead of test up to 3 components
pH Value ISO 3071

Phthalates CPSC-CH-C1001-09.3
Each = <500ppm
Total = max 1000ppm
are acceptable instead of test up to 3 components
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbon

(PAH) 1 ppm each
AfPS GS 2019
Standard 100 OEKO-TEX® certificates All 18 PAHs - Sum of 10ppm max


SECURITY OF ATTACHMENT - 915
Must submit a minimum of 5 specimens for
PD CEN/TS 17394:
testing on each separate foundation.
Buttons including tack buttons
Shall not detach at a force of:
and toggles - BS EN 17394-2
70N (if largest dimension ≥6mm)
50N (if largest dimension 3mm – 6mm).
Metal mechanically applied
press fasteners – PD CEN/TS
If button detached below the above force, then
17394-3
Pull Test it shall not form a small part.
915 Childrenswear only

PD CEN/TS 17394:
All product to be tested Either a minimum of 2 complete samples shall
be submitted or a sufficiently large sample
All other attachments (including
containing not less than 2 samples of the
non-metal press fasteners,
attachment and which can be divided into two
eyelets, diamantes, rivets,
pieces (one to act as a control)
sequins, textile attachments
such as pompoms, and stitched
Shall not detach or if detached shall not form a
on components -
small part.
PD CEN/TS 17394-4
FEATHER TRIMS
Species Identification Mark whether Goose (land fowl), Duck (water

Test method - Garments with
It is the suppliers responsibility to fowl), or un-known.
Feathers: Species Identification
ensure that care label complies to If un-known please comment – ‘Further
BS EN 1885 Annex B (IDFB Part
NLRM008 investigation is required by the supplier to
12-2015)
Not required if supplier can prove identify the animal origin’.
Recommendation - NLRM008
species through a vet certificate and Results must be recorded in line with NLRM008
10g of feather is required
chain of supply invoices. in section 4.3B
Must comply with mandatory requirements –
Hygiene and Cleanliness Test to BS EN 1162:1997 Oxygen index –
BS EN 12935: 2001
Specification acceptable less than 20.
20-50 test to EN 1884.
Colour Fastness to Rubbing
components
Animal Products - Supplier Self- Complete New Look Self-Declaration Form –
N/A
Declaration Form Download from Edi-track
Feather Labelling
(Feather and Down filled products BS EN 12934 Must comply.
only)
Feather Composition
State composition analysis. Splits out all the
(Feather and Down filled products BS EN 12131:2018
different components.
only)

ELASTICS – CHEMICAL
ethoxylates (APEOs)
up to 3 components
Azo EN 14362-1 & -3
pH Value ISO 3071
ELASTICS - PHYSICALS
8 125 -175 100 –190
10 125 –175 150 –280
12 125 –175 180 –300
Extension @ 2.5kg Cycle
Woven 14 125 – 175 200 –380
Load (%)
Elastics 16 125 – 175 230 – 400
Modulus @ 40% (g)
18 125 – 175 250 - 420
20 125 – 175 270 - 450
25 125 – 175 300 - 490
30 125 – 175 320 - 530
Extension @ 2.5kg Cycle 16 135 – 165 100 – 190
Woven Fold-
Load (%) 18 135 – 165 120 – 220
over Elastics
Modulus @ 40% (g) 20 135 – 165 150 – 280
24 135 – 165 180 - 300
BS EN ISO 20932 – Width (mm) Extension (%) Modulus (g)
3 6 120 – 180 82 – 112
8 120 – 180 96 – 120
Speed: 10 120 – 180 110 – 150
500mm/min Extension @ 1.5kg Cycle
Knitted 12 120 – 180 120 - 160
Load (%)
Elastics 14 120 – 180 130 - 170
Gauge Length: Modulus @ 40% (g)
100mm 16 120 – 180 140 – 180
20 120 – 180 150 – 200
Test cycles: 5 25 120 – 180 160 – 300
30 120 – 180 170 - 330
Cycle Loading: See Width (mm) Extension (%) Modulus (g)
standard 8 135 - 180 100 – 160
10 135 – 180 140 – 220
15 135 – 180 180 – 300
Knitted Extension @ 1.5kg Cycle 20 135 – 180 200 – 350
Insert Load (%) 25 135 – 180 300 – 530
Elastics Modulus @ 40% (g) 30 135 – 180 330 – 580
35 135 – 180 360 – 600
40 135 – 180 400 – 700
45 135 – 180 420 – 715
50 135 – 180 500 - 900
Shoulder 10 60 – 80 450–1000
Extension @ 3.6kg Cycle
Strapping – 13 60 – 80 600–1200
Load (%)
Lingerie 16 60 – 80 750–1400
Modulus @ 40% (g)
19 60 – 80 900–1600
23 60 – 80 1050-1800

i.e. elastics, beads, buttons, braids, fringing, grosgrain, heat-seals, hotfix, lace, metal accessories, poppers, ribbons, rivets,
sequins, strap adjusters, tassels and pom-poms (non-exhaustive list)
ZIPS
Below are the Permitted and Not Permitted Zip Categories for all New Look Clothing Products.
Zip Performance Code Zips Types / Size Comments
A Ultra-Light 2mm Not permitted

3-4mm Spiral/Coil Zip: Metal and Plastic Zips
B Light Permitted
4mm/5mm Invisible Zip
C Medium 5mm/6mm Spiral/Coil Zip: Metal and Plastic Permitted
D Medium/Heavy 7mm/8mm Spiral/Coil Zip: Metal and Plastic Zip Permitted
E Heavy Over 8mm Not permitted
All Zips must be from a New Look preferred source. Using Zips which are not from the New Look preferred Source list, must be
agreed with your technologist and the following chemical and physical testing must be completed.
915 - When ordering zips for 915, supplier must inform preferred zip supplier, zip is intended for childrenswear to ensure zip
meets additional 915 zip tests.
CHEMICALS
Zips can be metal or plastic or a combination of materials. Refer to the New Look Chemical Management Policy for applicable
Chemical tests. All parts of the zipper must be tested for chemicals including tape, teeth, stoppers, slider, puller and puller
accessories.
PHYSICALS
Test Method Test Standard Requirement
B C D
Light Medium Medium/Heavy
B Puller Attachment 80N 200N 250N
C Closed End 70N 80N 110N
D Top Stop 60N 90N 100N
E Open-ended slide fastener box 70N 90N 120N
F Resistance to Reciprocating 500 cycles without breakdown
BS EN 16732
G Lateral Strength of Slide Fastener 200N 250N 370N
H Lateral Strength of open end 70N 90N 120N
I Slider Locking Device 15N 25N 40N
Additional 915 (Childrenswear) Tests
J Open end - Single stringer slider retention 70N 70N N/A
K Torque Strength 0.34N.m 0.34N.m N/A
BACK TO MAIN
CONTENTS

NL 13 - Marketing Claims
Package testing is not required; select individual marketing and performance test to allow the claim to be used.
Marketing tags must not be added to the product without the passed test report to confirm the claim.
Additional test as requested by the New Look Technologist
Test Name Test Method Requirement
1) Wicking Height:
Wicking GB/T 21655 Knitted: ≥100mm, time period 30 minutes
Woven: ≥90mm, time period 30 minutes
Must pass all 3 tests:
2) 1) Water Absorption Rate:
Knitted: ≥200% / Woven: ≥100%
Absorbent
GB/T 21655 3) 2) Drip diffusion Time:
Required for Moisture
Knitted: ≤3s / Woven: ≤5s
Management Claim
4) 3) Wicking Height:
Knitted: ≥100mm, time period 30 minutes
Woven: ≥90mm, time period 30 minutes
Must pass both below tests:
Quick Dry
Evaporation Rate: ≥0.18 g/h
Required for Moisture GB/T 21655
Water Vapour Transmission: Knitted: ≥10000 [g/(m²d)]
Management Claim
Woven: ≥8000 [g/(m²d)]
BS 7209 Water Vapour UK test: greater than 60%
Breathable Permeability (The higher the %, the better the water vapour permeability
Test as composite recommendation 80% for active performance)
Test in Fabric Form.
Wash to be as per care label X5
Shower Resistant Before wash: ≥4
BS EN 4920 Spray test
After x3 washes: ≥3
Wash to be in washcator X5
Waterproof No penetration of water at 150cm head of water.
BS EN ISO 811 Hydrostatic Head
BS EN 13758-1 Fabric must pass UPF 50+ and UV A less than 5%

Sun Safe Garments
UV Protection
BS EN 13758-2 Garment must meet Design Requirements of BS EN 13758-2.
Sample to be washed / dried as

Easy Care Easy Care: Grade 3.5 after 1 wash
per care label.
Grade 3 after 5 washes
And
BS ISO 7770 – Seams
Non-Iron: Grade 4.5 after 1 wash
Non-Iron Grade 4 after 5 washes
BS ISO 7768 – Fabric
Crease Recovery ISO 2313-1 >120 degrees
Wrinkle Recovery ISO 9867 Grade 4
OTHER
WIRA Steam Stability BS 4323 +1%/ -2%
Snagging
Only required on fabrics
BS8479 to 2,000 rubs Grade 4
made from continuous
filament yarns

5 New Look In-House Test Methods (NL IHTM)

These methods have been developed to address specific New Look quality concerns
Due to the nature of these tests and depending on the product end use, some of these tests are housed in the New Look
Clothing Performance Manual, some are housed in the Accessories and Lifestyle Performance Manual, and some are in both.
See table below to know where each IHTM is housed.
Accessories
Clothing & Lifestyle
New Look Reference Test Method
Manual
Manual
NL IHTM 01 Appearance After Wash Assessment X X
Tensile Strength of Clasps, Rings, Sliders and Hooks Used X
NL IHTM 02 on Bra Straps
NL IHTM 03 Heat Conductivity of Metal Trims X
NL IHTM 04 Puncture Resistance of Bra Wire Casing X
NL IHTM 05 Wadding Migration X
NL IHTM 06 Fibre Percolation for Synthetic Fibres X
NL IHTM 07 Wire Penetration Test for Face Coverings X
NL IHTM 08 Dynamic (Jerk) Test Luggage X
NL IHTM 09 Impact Test Luggage X
NL IHTM 10 Rolling Road Test X
NL IHTM 11 Fibre Shedding X

NL IHTM 01 - Appearance After Wash Assessment
1. Purpose
To assess the garment appearance after wash. To evaluate the appearance and durability of prints, motifs, sequins,
embellishments, components and fabrics used in the garment or accessory product.
For underwired bras and corsets and wire casings dimensional stability (shrinkage and distortion) are also assessed
• Three washes 4N wash (40 degrees, normal agitation) for lightweight woven, medium woven and
outerwear
• Three washes 4G wash (40 degrees, gentle agitation) for jersey, knitwear and knitted outerwear
• Three washes 4G wash (40 degrees, gentle agitation-no steel balls) underwired bras& corseting
• Five washes 4N wash (40 degrees, normal agitation) for denim
• One dry clean cleanse for garment appearance after dry clean
• One wash soft accessories 4S wash (40 degrees, gentle agitation – no steel balls)
Dry as per care label instructions for all product types except in the case of a dry clean cleanse
2. Apparatus, reagents and consumables
For washing:
• Wascator washing machine
• Polyester make-weights
• IEC Detergent
• Sodium Perborate
• TAED
• Drying Racks
• Domestic Tumble Dryer
• NEW Multifibre strip, regenerated cellulose “Lyo W”
The multifibre strip has updated from the traditional one: Acetate | Cotton | Nylon | Polyester | Acrylic | Wool
To “Lyo W” regenerated cellulose: regenerated cellulose (Lynocel) | Cotton | Nylon | Polyester | Acrylic | Wool
The reason for this change is to better reflect the fibres present in our customers “usual” washing load.
For dry cleaning: as specified in EN ISO 3175-2
3. Specimens
Two samples are required for assessment

• This test should be conducted in garment form or for accessories as a complete product, with all production processes
applied. A specimen representing all colours/components can be used when an insufficient sample is available, with the
agreement of the New Look Technologist.
• Reference sample – an example containing all colours/components should be retained as a reference point for grading
any appearance change.
Additional information for bra or corset assessments:
• Two bra sizes should be tested: a small cup and a large cup.
• Prepare the samples for a Dimensional Stability test according to the Marking and Measuring standard BS EN ISO: 3759.
• Push the bra wire to one end of the casing and at the other end measure the gap between the end of the wire and the
end of the casing. Record measurements on both cups of each bra.

4. Procedure
For washing:
• Weigh the test specimen and make up to 2kg wash load using makeweights, attaching the regenerated cellulose multi-
fibre strip
• Add 38.5g of IEC detergent, 10g of Sodium Perborate and 1.5g of TAED in a pre-dissolved liquor to the washing machine
• Select appropriate 4N, 4G OR 4S wash as detailed in section1 “purpose” , BS EN ISO 6330
• On the Wascator washing machine at the appropriate temperature and agitation. Run the programme for 1 cycle,
remove and assess the regenerated cellulose multi-fibre strip, then run for the remaining 2 or 4 cycles as detailed in
section1 “purpose” without the regenerated cellulose multi-fibre strip
• Dry the specimen as per the care label.
• For viscose and viscose blends, for assessment 6.15, record sample before and after ironing
For dry cleaning follow EN ISO 3175-2
5. Assessment of change in shade using a fluorescent suppressor
If the sample fails change in shade, this could be due to the effects of the optical brightening agent (OBA) this should be
noted on the test result.
6. Assessment of changes in appearance & reporting of results
Compare tested sample to the un-laundered specimen and assess where relevant to the following parameters.
Provide photographic assessment of any failures.
ASSESSMENT REQUIREMENT
Grade 4.
6.1 Colour change/ loss using Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 105-A02) State that OBA is
If colour change is present
present
due to OBA – go to 6.1.1.
Neon/Fluorescent:3-4
6.1.1 Colour change using a florescent suppressor (SDC) if colour change is due to OBA’s
Other:4
Cross-staining - colour transfer onto component parts using Grey Scale assessment
6.2 Neon/Fluorescent:3-4
(BS EN 105-A03)
Other: 4-5
Only applicable to fabrics/ garments containing more than one colour
Colour staining onto multi-fibre using Grey Scale assessment (BS EN 105-A03) ≥4
6.2.1
NEW Multi-fibre strip - Lyo W: Neon/Fluorescent:
Regenerated cellulose (Lynocel) | Cotton | Nylon | Polyester | Acrylic | Wool No less than 3-4
6.3 Fraying of fabrics and trims None

Woven: +/-3%
6.4 Spirality/ twisting of seam Knitted: +/-5%
Grinning / opening of seams.
6.5 ≤4mm
Measure seam opening
Pilling or fuzzing of surface fibres.
≥3-4
6.6 Assess degree of pilling/ fuzzing using
3 for brushed fabrics
Use ISO 12945-1 grading scale to comment the on pilling
Pile loss or flattening of pile –
6.7 Assess for Flattening and Pile Loss None/ slight
(to include flocking and all other raised piles)
6.8 Detachment of fastenings and trims Slight
Slight
6.9 Corrosion/damage/colour change to trims

6.10 Delamination of fused components Slight

Free running of zip fastening.
Runs freely in both
6.11 Assess free running in both directions.
directions.
Open and close open-ended zip fasteners.
Differential shrinkage of components/parts.
6.12 Assess for distorting, wrinkling or twisting of components and/ or puckering of Slight
seams
6.13 Unravelling/ breaks in stitching Slight
Wadding has moved within casing (outer and lining) and/or migrated through
6.14 Slight
casing
Woven +/-3%
True Knit/Jersey: +/- 5%
100% Viscose: +/-7%
Dimensional stability in garment form
6.15 Viscose blends: +/-5%
Not required on a “crinkle” or “perma-creased” effect fabric
100% Viscose and viscose
blends, to be assessed
before and after ironing
Dimensional and Bra or corset under wire casing stability
Report the following by bra size:
A/B/C: None
- A) Holes in casing
D: Report %
- B) Wires punched through
Wire casing must not
- C) Distortion of the wires or casing
6.16 shrink more than -3%
- D) Dimensional change that has occurred (After washing and drying, condition
the sample and calculate from the original dimensions, the differences in
E: Report in mm
dimensional change as a percentage)
- E) Distance in mm from the end of the bra wire to the end of the casing for
each bra cup before and after washing.
None; If slight/ moderate
6.17 Other changes observed
or severe list the changes
Additional requirements for prints/ flocking/coatings applied during production
ASSESSMENT REQUIRMENT
6.18 Raised surface fibres showing through the print/ flocking. Slight
6.19 Print/flocking/coating cracking, chipping or chunking. None/ slight
6.20 Loss of print/flocking/coating adhesion (peeling). None
6.21 Loss of print/flocking/coating. None/slight

NL IHTM 02 - Tensile Strength Of Clasps, Rings, Sliders And Hooks Used On Bra Straps
1. Purpose
1.1 To assess the tensile strength of clasps, rings, sliders and hooks.
2. Apparatus
2.1 Constant rate of extension tensile testing instrument with a minimum load capacity of 200N (20kg) for metal
components and 100N (10kg) for plastic components.
2.2 100% Polyester or 100% cotton tape in widths 10mm, 15mm 20mm or 25mm as appropriate to the internal width of the
component.
2.3 Impact resistant safety glasses or goggles.
3. Conditioning
3.1 The test specimens are to be conditioned in the standard atmosphere of 65% Relative Humidity (RH) +/- 2% and 20°C +/-
2°C for a minimum of 4 hours. All tests should also be carried out in this atmosphere.
4. Health And Safety
4.1 Safety glasses should be worn when carrying out this test and care should be taken when loading the sample into the
jaws.
5. Preparation Of Test Specimens/Materials
5.1 Six of each type of component within the garment to be tested.

5.2 Thread 2 pieces of the appropriately sized tape through the component as follows:
- RING: Thread the tape through to form 2 loops on opposite sides of the ring.
- SLIDER: Thread 1 piece of tape through the central post of the slider and a 2nd piece of tape through one of the other
bars to form 2 loops on the slider.
- HOOK: Thread the tape through to form a loop through the closed side of the hook and another piece to form a loop
through the open side of the hook.
- CLASP: To be tested as a whole – 2 halves closed. Thread the tape through the closed side of each half of clasp to
form 2 loops on opposite sides of the closed clasp.
6. Test procedure
6.1 The test speed is 200mm per minute.

6.2 Flat rubber faced clamps are used on the front and rear to give a minimum surface area of 25mm x 25mm when the
clamps are closed.
6.3 Set the load range to 200N (20Kg) for metal and 100N (10kg) for plastic.
6.4 Set the gauge length as appropriate to the test specimens and slack mount in the jaws.
a. Set the cross head in action and take the sample to break.
7. Assessment/results of tested specimens
7.1 Report the test method number and title.

7.2 Report the individual results for each component in Newton’s.
7.3 Specify if the results exceed 200N for metal or 100N for plastic.
7.4 If the tape breaks, then report the result as exceeds the force at which the tape broke.
7.5 In some instances, the hook may distort to the extent that the tape slides off. If this happens, please report statement
‘Hook distorted and allowed the strap to slide off’ plus the force at which this occurred.
7.7 In some instances, the clasp may distort to the extent that the clasp comes undone. If this happens, please report
statement ‘Clasp distorted and allowed to undo’ plus the force at which this occurred.

NL IHTM 03 - Heat Conductivity Of Metal Trims
1 Purpose
Heat conductivity is a test designed to record the temperature of metal trims when exposed to simulated solar red
heat.
2 Apparatus
2.1 Infra-red heat source

2.2 Alcohol-in-glass thermometer
2.3 Retort stand
2.4 Recording thermometer with thermocouples
2.5 2 polypropylene blocks (200 x 200 x approx. 10 mm; 100 x 200 x approx. 10 mm; small one stuck to large one to
form a ledge to place samples on)
2.6 Calibrated timer
2.7 Marker pen
2.8 Draft free area
3 Samples required
Two samples are required for this test. The two samples are to be tested without any other parts attached to them i.e.
Fabric. If the sample submitted is a long or large item; two points on the sample will be specified i.e. Chains.
4 Procedure
4.1 Place the complete polypropylene block in a draft free area. This area must be free from draughts i.e. From
opening/closing windows and doors.
4.2 Place the thermometer in a retort stand, 10 mm away from the block. Switch on the infrared heat lamp and position
it to ensure the glass thermometer reaches the desired temperature.
4.3 The temperatures used during testing are 30°c & 40°c. When the desired temperature is reached, sit the sample on
the ledge of the block by either balancing directly onto it or by using a small amount of tack to ensure it stays in
place.
4.4 Ensure that the sample is placed in the centre of the block. Use the marker pen to mark on the test piece the point
where the temperature will be taken. Once the test piece is placed on the block start the timer.
4.5 At the specified times (10 mins, 30 mins & 60 mins), shield the test piece from the infrared heat lamp and record the
temperature of the test piece and the propylene block using thermocouples. Also record the temperature of the
glass thermometer. Remove the shield.
5 Assessment criteria
5.1 The temperature of the metal trim must not exceed 48°c at any of the time periods specified.
5.2 If the submitted item reaches temperatures in excess of 48°c it fails to meet the new look requirements.
5.3 If the samples fail the supplier can submit the metal trims for testing attached to the garment. This additional
analysis should not be recorded as pass or fail.
6 Reporting of results
6.1 the temperature of the thermometer and the metal trim will be recorded at each time interval and noted on the
report.
6.2 the results will be marked as a pass or fail in accordance with the new look assessment criteria.

NL IHTM 04 - Puncture Resistance Of Bra Wire Casing
1 Purpose
To assess the puncture strength of bra wire casing fabric.
2. Apparatus
2.1. A constant rate of traverse tensile testing instrument that meets the following requirements:
o Load cell with 50kg capacity
o 100mm per minute constant rate of traverse
o Pneumatically operated sample jaw with a pair of rubber jaw faces that give an area of contact when closed
together of 75mm x 25mm
o Bra wire jaw assembly, designed to hold a prong in such a way that initial separation between the pneumatic
jaw faces and tip of the prong is 100mm.
o Standard prong (diameter at point: 2.6mm/ protruding length: 15mm/ the radium of the tip and the adjacent
diameter is polished to 0.1mm average (micro-meters roughness average).
2.2 Metal ruler with mm graduations
3 Specimens
3.1 Cut six specimens of bra casing fabric, 300mm long.
o Tubular from one end, slit the reverse of the casing down the centre to the midway point, taking care not
to damage the face. Cut away approximately 30mm of casing at this point.
o Open width if lining tape is to be used in the garment; the test should be conducted on the composite
casing and lining tape so that it is representative of production.
o Please note: face is referring to the side of the tape in contact with the skin. Reverse is referring to the side
of the tape in contact with the bra.
3.2 Dry test 3 specimens - condition the prepared test specimens for a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere
for testing, at a temperature of 20°c±2°c and a relative humidity of 65%±4%. The equipment must be sited in this
atmosphere. Carry out the tests in this atmosphere.
3.3 Wet test 3 specimens – condition the specimens as above and then soak the fabric specimens in a relaxed (open)
state for 15 minutes in distilled water at 20°c. Blot off excess moisture with a paper towel and test whilst wet.
4 Procedure
4.1 Ensure that the testing equipment is set up exactly as described under ‘apparatus’ above and calibrated according to
the manufacturer’s instructions.
4.2 Position the specimen so that the area of the specimen, which has been cut away, is over the end of the prong.
4.3 Secure the two ends of the specimen in the pneumatic jaw. The specimen should be positioned centrally and
vertically ensuring that no tension is applied.
4.4 Set the machine in motion and measure the load required to penetrate through the face area of the specimen. If a
specimen slips through the jaws, it should be discarded and a fresh specimen tested. This usually occurs because the
specimen has been mounted incorrectly, or the jaws were incorrectly tightened.
4.5 Repeat this procedure for the remaining specimens.
5 Assessment criteria
5.1 pass rate: minimum 15 dan
5.2 if the average result of either the three dry specimens or the three wet specimens is less than 15 dan then the test is
a fail.
6 Reporting of results
6.1 report the results of each specimen stating whether dry or wet specimen
6.2 report the average result of the three dry specimens and the three wet specimens
6.3 state whether pass or fail
6.4 photographic assessment of failures

NL IHTM 05 - Wadding Migration
1. Purpose
To assess migration of wadding to ensure wadding fibres do not penetrate the outer layer during wash and wear.
If more than 6 fibres longer than 2mm penetrate either side of the cushion (outer and lining) the test should be reported
as fail.
2. Apparatus & conditioning
2.1 To be in line with BS EN 15586
3. Specimens
3.1 More than one specimens to be taken from the finished garment so that all layers/ filling are representative of
production.
3.2 Cut four specimens from the finished garment each measuring 180mm x 240mm. Two with the longest side in the warp
direction and the other two with the longest side in the weft direction. It’s advisable to cut the sample out 20-30mm
bigger to allow for movement of layers when sewing.
3.3 Specimen must reflect the order and thickness of all layers of the garment submitted for testing, if there is no fibre proof
fabric/ interlining exclude this layer/s from the specimen. The following layers should be present in the order specified in
the picture,
1
1. outer fabric
2. fibre proof fabric/interlining (if included)
3. wadding/loose fibre filling 4 2
4. lab pillow to make up thickness 3
5. lining fabric
5
Please note: if there is any stitching securing the wadding to the outer fabric/lining the specimen should be cut to include
this stitching so that the specimen is exactly the same quality as the garment (thread type/ stitch length/ etc). Do not add
layers or stitching that are not on the garment.
3.4 Mark the front side of the outer fabric with a 170mm on the side which is 240mm and 120mm on the side which is
180mm
b
170mm
240mm
120mm
a
180mm
3.5 sew seam (a) together from the right side with lockstitch, stitch length to be 12 stitches per inch.
• Sew the support seam (b) about 3mm outside the seams, stitch length to be 12 stitches per inch.
• Cut back the seam allowance of the long sides to 15mm, cutting the wadding layer to 10mm in order to reduce the
thickness of the seam.
• Cut back the seam allowance of the short sides to 20mm.
• Sew together all layers at the selvedge with a zig zag stitch or overlock, stitch length to be at least 10 stitches per inch.

• The final test specimen should look like the diagram below.
• Check cushion thickness is 44mm before commencing test.
• Do not remove any fibres that are already penetrating as this will generate a false result
4. Procedure
Test the 4 specimens on both faces (outer and lining), two in the warp direction and 2 in the weft direction.
Fasten the test cushion in the clamps of the test apparatus at 44mm apart. The cushion’s short flaps are placed in
the clamps and the cushion is folded between these clamps.
Set counter to 5000 revolutions.
Once apparatus has stopped remove the test specimen and place in a light box (uv) for assessment
5. Assessment
The assessment is made up of two parts:
5.1 part 1: garment assessment in the form that it arrives:
- count the number of fibres longer than 2mm that are protruding on both sides of the garment (outer and lining
faces), do not count fibres in seam allowance. If protruding fibres have formed pills count all the fibres within the pill. If
necessary to confirm the fibres are from the wadding pull them slightly with tweezers. It is not necessary to continue
counting over 50.
- record if no fibre proof lining is present between the wadding and the outer fabric and/ or the wadding and the lining.
This is not a pass/fail criterion.
5.2 part 2: cut specimens assessment under test conditions:
- count the number of protruding fibres longer than 2mm on both sides of the cushion (outer and lining faces); do not
count fibres in seam allowance. If protruding fibres form pills count all the fibres within the pill. If necessary to confirm
the fibres are from the wadding pull them slightly with tweezers. It is not necessary to continue counting after 50. If
more than 6 fibres longer than 2mm penetrate either side of the cushion (outer and lining) the test should be reported
as fail.
6. Reporting
6.1 State the number of fibres protruding on the original garment outer and lining face. Do not state as pass or fail.
6.2 On the garment assessment specify if fibre proof fabric is present between the wadding and the outer fabric/ lining.
Do not state as pass or fail.
6.3 State the number of fibres protruding on the specimens – outer and lining faces. Specify whether pass or fail. Failure
of one specimen constitutes a failure of the test.
6.4 When specifying the number of fibres protruding specify exact figure up to 50, if over 50 state more than 50.

6.5 Photographic assessment before test to include both sides of the garment and all 4 specimens (outer and lining faces).
Add pictures of any failing garment/ specimens.
6.6 The report should take the following format:
Garment Assessment:
Fibres protruding
Outer fabric
Lining fabric
Fibre Proof fabric present between wadding and outer fabric – Yes/ No
Fibre proof fabric present between wadding and lining – Yes/ No
Specimen Assessment:
Fibres protruding Pass/ Fail Requirement

Outer fabric lining
Specimen 1 (warp) ≤6
Specimen 2 (warp)
Specimen 3 (weft)
Specimen 4 (weft)
Overall result
For example:
Garment Assessment:
Fibres protruding
Outer fabric 4
Lining fabric 2
Fibre Proof fabric present between wadding and outer fabric – Yes
Fibre proof fabric present between wadding and lining – No
Specimen Assessment:
Fibres protruding Pass/ Fail Requirement

Outer fabric lining
Specimen 1 (warp) None 2 Pass ≤6
Specimen 2 (warp) 4 1 Pass
Specimen 3 (weft) 7 3 Fail
Specimen 4 (weft) 6 None Pass
Overall result Fail

NL IHTM 06 - Fibre Percolation For Synthetic Fibres
This New Look method deals with the finished garment, making it more reprehensive of New Look customers experience,
and the reason it is our preferred method.
Methods of testing the fibre proof properties of fabrics. Rubbing test. Please Note: There is a standard BS EN 15586 Textiles
Scope
To assess the degree of fibre migration of waddings through an outer fabric during wear
Apparatus
• Fibre migration tester
• Large magnifying glass
• Overlocking machine
Preparation of test specimens
• Four specimens of the composite wadding are prepared, each measuring 120mm x 300mm. Two with the shortest
side parallel to the length and 2 with the shortest side parallel to the width, so that they do not contain the same set
of warp and weft threads.
• The composite specimens are then overlocked through all the thickness/layers along all four sides.
• The specimens are conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours.
Test procedure
• Measure the thickness of the specimen.

• Adjust the separation of Clamp "A" and "B" by moving Clamp "B" to a separation of:
(Thickness (mm) x 2 x 85)/100 = Distance in mms
• Place one end of the specimen in Clamp "A" and folding the sample in half downwards, place the other end in Clamp
"B".
• Run the machine for 5,000 revs and then remove the specimen.
• Measure in 4cm from each end of each specimen and then using a large magnifying glass, examine the specimen for
fibre migration.
• Count the fibres exceeding 2mm in length within this area.
• Repeat this procedure on the three remaining specimens.
Evaluation and results
Report the number of fibres migrating through the fabric for each specimen.
If in excess of 50, report as "50+"

Appendix
Appendix 1 - USA FLAMMABILITY TESTING FOR ALL TEXTILE CLOTHING, 16 CFR 1610
1. Exempt Fabric/Products (Testing not required)
A. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fibre content, weighing 2.6 ounces per square yard. (88 grams per square meter) or
more, or 20 momme or more
B. All fabrics, both plain and raised surface, regardless of weight, made entirely from any of the following fibres or entirely
from a combination of the following fibres.
• Acrylic (100%)
• Modacrylic (100%)
• Olefin (100%)
• Nylon (100%)
• Polyester (100%)
• Wool (100%)
C. Hats, gloves and footwear.
2. Non- Exempt Fabric/Products (Test Required)
A. Fabrics with a raised- fibre surface that contain any amount of cellulosic fibres. Cellulosic fibres include acetate, cotton,
linen, lyocell, ramie, rayon.
Note, raised –fibre surface fabrics may include a raised surface = any intentional process done to raise any of the fibres from
a flat surface:
• Chamois Cloth
• Chenille
• Fake Fur
• Flannel
• Fleece
• French Terry
• Sherpa Fleece
• Terry
• Velour
• Velveteen
B. Lightweight plain surface fabrics, weighing less than 2.6 ounces per square yard, containing any amount of cellulosic fibres,
fabrics such as :
• Gauze
• Voile
• Lawn
• Chiffon
• Tulle
• Georgette
• Leno
• Organdie
C. Lightweight silks weighing less than 20 momme (momme is the unit of silk measure)
D. Fabrics containing metallic yarns such as lamé fabric
E. Land and waterfowl feathers used as trims
F. Hosiery

Appendix 2 - FLAMMABILITY ASSESSMENT
In addition to BS and EN nightwear and loungewear standards on flammability, all 915 Children’s products should be
assessed for flammability risk as part of the risk assessment
The risk levels are high risk (red) and low risk (green) as outlined below.
High Risk (red):
Risk of the fabric burning or ‘surface flashing’, the following fabrics are classified as high risk:
Light weight fabrics below 130g/m².
Open constructions.
Cellulosic and cellulosic blends.
Pile, fleece and raised surface fabrics, for example: chenille, velvet, velour, towelling, faux fur, brushed surfaces.
Cotton and ramie.
Feathers.
The design is high risk, should they come into contact with a source of ignition or flame, the following design attributes
present a higher risk:
o Loose fitting and flowing products.
o Long trims cords, ribbons, sashes and frills especially at neck, cuff or hem.
o Hoods.
o Products that fasten at the neck or at the back are harder to remove.
o Products made from two or more layers and at least one high risk fabric, design or end use present, for
example, Party Dresses.
- The following products are more liable to be exposed to sources of ignition or flame - Party wear, fancy dress
and nightwear, 915 Childrenswear.
Low Risk (green):
- There is low risk of the fabric burning or ‘surface flashing’

- The design is low risk
- The end user can be classed as low risk (Adults only)
- The following fabrics are classified as low risk as they are liable to melt or extinguish themselves - Wool, Nylon and
Polyester when greater than 150g/m2.
- Close fitting designs are classified as low risk as they are less likely to be close to a naked flame.
- The following end use is classified as low risk – swimwear and coats/ jackets without a hood.
If high risk is identified this has to be reduced to low risk, New Look Technologist will advise next steps.
Please note: All New Look products are labelled with the wording, “KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE”

Appendix 3 - CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN

Appendix 4 – Reference for ISO 105 C06
References used in this document: A2S@40

3.1 Clothing Performance Requirements - March 22

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3.

1: Clothing Performance Requirements

Issue Status: Final 1 of 60 March 2022

Issue Status: Final 2 of 60 March 2022

2 General Product Safety Risk Assessment Requirement – Applies to all products

Safety Standards & Performance Standards

Issue Status: Final 3 of 60 March 2022

3.1 Accredited Laboratories

Accredited Lab Approved Product Categories Approved Locations Website

Intertek All products All locations https://www.intertek.com/

TUV Rhineland All products All locations https://www.tuv.com/world/en/

SGS All products All locations https://www.sgs.com/

Impaq Tech All products China Only http://www.impaq-tech.com/

Qima Sunglasses Only China Only https://www.qima.com/

Bureau Veritas Footwear and Bags Only Wenzhou and https://www.bureauveritas.co.uk/

3.2 Submission Procedure

3.3 Validity of Testing

Issue Status: Final 4 of 60 March 2022

3.5 Other Retailers Test Reports

3.6 New Look Preferred Suppliers

Issue Status: Final 5 of 60 March 2022

4 Performance Standards and Testing Tables

Issue Status: Final 6 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Issue Status: Final 7 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Tear Strength Fabrics under 100gm² = X

Issue Status: Final 8 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Add Performance Standard NL 11 for Linings & Pocketing

Issue Status: Final 9 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

100% viscose: +/-7%

Issue Status: Final 10 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Colour Fastness to Perspiration X X X

Issue Status: Final 11 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Add Performance Standard NL 11 for Linings & Pocketing

Issue Status: Final 12 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Issue Status: Final 13 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Colour Fastness to Water X X

Issue Status: Final 14 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement

Add Performance Standard NL 11 for Linings & Pocketing

Issue Status: Final 15 of 60 March 2022

(Under 2000 Units)

Test name Test Method Requirement