A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award

of Degree in
Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)
Submitted By
Rohan Jetling

Under the Guidance of Ms.Priyadarshini

Associate Professor

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad
May, 2019
 ABSTRACT

In today’s fast changing world each customer is expecting high quality garment with product
variety. This project work deals with the productivity and quality enhancement in a garment
manufacturing unit through practical study conducted in stitching department. The use of this
project work will improve the efficiency of production line for bottle neck operations, shows
better utilization of available resources, reduce process variations & maintains consistency in
quality of the process output. The project result shows that an industry can achieve higher
productivity and profitability with improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities

ii
 CERTIFICATE
“This is to certify that this Project Report titled ” is based on my
o r i g i n a l research work, conducted under the guidance of towards
partial fulfilment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree
in Fashion Technology (Apparel Production) of National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Hyderabad.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material,
wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.”

Rohan Jetling
DFT-VIII

Ms.Priyadarshini
Associate Professor
Department of Fashion Technology

iii
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The internship opportunity I had with Suryalakshmi cotton mills (Garments

Division), Interning at this industry was a great chance for learning and

professional development. Therefore, I consider myself fortunate to have been

guided in the best possible way. I am also grateful for having a chance to meet

so many wonderful people and professionals who led me through this internship

period.

I am using this opportunity to express my deepest gratitude and special thanks

to my industry mentor Mr. P. Avinash kumar (Washing department- Manager)

who guided me throughout the course of the internship. I would also like to

thank Mr. Ajay kumar (Quality head) for his constant support and supervision

and guidance. I extend sincere gratitude to Ms. Umarani (Human Resource-

Head) for providing necessary guidance and helping in the completion of this

project.

I also would like to express my deepest thanks to my faculty mentor Ms.

Priyadarshini for taking part in the decisions and giving necessary advices and

guidance. I choose this moment to acknowledge their contribution gratefully.

I perceive this opportunity as a milestone in my career development. I will

strive to use the gained skills and knowledge in the best possible way in order to

attain desired career objectives.

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INDUSTRY CERTIFICATE

v
 Table of Contents
1. COMPANY PROFILE: ............................................................................................................................ 1
1.1 Overview: ...................................................................................................................................... 1
1.2 General details: ............................................................................................................................. 1
1.3 Introduction: ................................................................................................................................. 2
1.4 Infrastructure: ............................................................................................................................... 3
1.5 Clients: .......................................................................................................................................... 6
2. DEPARTMENT STUDY: ......................................................................................................................... 7
2.1 Spreading and cutting department: .............................................................................................. 7
2.2 Sewing department:...................................................................................................................... 8
2.3 Washing department: ................................................................................................................... 9
3. PROJECT: ........................................................................................................................................... 17
3.1 Topic of Project: .......................................................................................................................... 18
3.2 Introduction: ............................................................................................................................... 18
3.4 Project Objective:........................................................................................................................ 20
5. METHODOLOGY: .............................................................................................................................. 22
8. CONCLUSION: .................................................................................................................................... 35
9. REFRENCES: ....................................................................................................................................... 43

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vii
 1. COMPANY PROFILE:

1.1 Overview:
Partnering leading global brands as an original denim manufacturer, Suryalakshmi Cotton

creates value added denim garments in a variety of styles, colors and finishes. We are a major

denim wear supplier to high street retailers, fashion houses and independent designers across

the globe, for children’s wear, women swear and menswear. Working in close collaboration

with customers’ design teams, suryalakshmi cater to fast fashion requirements with quick

turnaround times.

1.2 General details:

Industry details

Industry Name SURYALAXMI COTTON

MILLS(GARMENTS DIVISION)

Industry location/Postal adress Sy.No 219 Thummalur village, Mahshwaram

Mandal.

Pin code 501359

District Rangareddy I

Industry type Yarn/Textile processing involving in any

effluent/emission generating processes

including bleaching, dyeing, printing and

coloring.

Mandal Thummalur

Scale of industry Large

Status Operational

1
Date of commissioning 20-06-2006

Registration/License No 64758/39170

Gross fixed assessed cost without 1837.0 (in lakhs)

depreciation

Plant and machinery cost without 3092.0 (in lakhs)

depreciation

Status of industry Public limited company

Occupier Name Paritosh kumar Agarwal

Occupier Designation The Managing director

1.3 Introduction:
At Suryalakshmi Cotton, product development is a continuous process across the denim

manufacturing cycle. We draw insights from global fashion experts and trends in the denim

industry to create different garment effects.

-A world-class laundry and dry process facility enables us to create a wide variety of finishes

such as:

 Sand blasting

 Laser cutting

 PP spray

 Crinkling

 Resin finish

 Whiskers

 Chevrons

 Tie and dye

2
  Tinting

 Localized pigment spray

 Grinding

 Damaging

 Ozone finishes

 Spotting etc.

Our garments undergo the highest standard of quality control at every step of production.

With a dedicated merchandizing team combined with highly automated processes, we ensure

consistency in quality and productivity. We recognize and act on our responsibility to respect

worker rights across our garmenting operations and the entire denim supply chain.

Capacity:

5,000 garment pieces per day approx.

1.4 Infrastructure:
At Suryalakshmi Cotton, we understand our business has social and environmental impacts.

With a ‘responsible manufacturing’ approach, we work across our operations – from

material sourcing to yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacturing & garment manufacturing and

from design to delivery – to bring about positive change.

We encourage innovation and promote the integration of more responsible and sustainable

ways of working across the areas of People, Environment and Quality. We have been on

this journey for over 5 decades now and know that real responsibility comes from driving

continuous and measurement-led change in each of these areas

3
At Suryalakshmi cotton mills (Garments division), we have taken the following steps to face

the challenges of a competitive world.

 Improve sustainable supply chain management system.

 Enhance efficiency at every level of production and management.

 Strive to attain highest quality levels as an ongoing process.

 Preserving ethically sensitive trading practices and prudent care of the environment.

 Ensure safety from fire and structural weaknesses.

The company has adopted a comprehensive quality and environment management system

with the objective of making continuous improvement in every aspects of its operation, so

that every employee works together to foster a quality driven culture in the organization.

Prohibition of Discrimination: Equal Opportunity for all

The company will ensure that there is no discrimination, direct or indirect, against any person

on the ground of race, color, nationality, ethnic origin, religion, disability, age, sex, sexual,

orientation, marital status in any aspect of recruitment and selection.

Compensation

Wages paid for regular working hours, overtime hours and overtime differentials shall meet

or exceed legal minimums and /or industry standards. Illegal or unauthorized deductions from

wages shall not be made.

Working Conditions

4
Our company must treat all workers with respect and dignity and provide them with a safe

and healthy environment. The company shall not use corporal punishment or any other form

of physical or psychological coercion.

Workplace health and safety

A clear set of relation and procedures has been established and followed regarding the

occupational health and safety. Our company is committed to implement and where

reasonably practicable, continuously improve effective healthy standards, which should

reflect best industry practice.

Prohibition of child labor

No person irrespective of male or female gender who has not completed 14 years of age are

not allowed to recruit and employ of any nature of job. The rights of young workers must be

protected.

Prohibition of forced labor

Our company does not use any force labor whether in the form of prison labor, indentured

labor, bonded labor or otherwise which is prohibited as per law of the land and/or

international instruments.

5
1.5 Clients:

6
 2. DEPARTMENT STUDY:

The different departments in suryalakshmi cotton mills(Garments division) are:

-Spreading and cutting department

-Sewing department

-Finishing department

-Washing department

-Human resource department

-Industrial engineering department

2.1 Spreading and cutting department:

Spreading and Cutting Department workflow

 Sample Receiving.

 Fabric receiving from store.

 Fabric note as per lot no, shade no, width.

 Sample cutting.

 Sample approval.

 Receiving cut order.

 Marker receiving.

 Fabric spreading / layering.

 Cutting.

 Shading.

 Numbering.

 Bundling.

 Cut quantity report ready.

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2.2 Sewing department:
-Receive of approval sample, pattern, measurement spec sheet, tech pack, approved trim card,

pp & size set comments & style bulletin.

-Internal pre-production meeting with all concerned department discussed for critical

operation, trims placement, thread shade, quality, machine setting with folders and

attachments, line & delivery plans.

-Batch setting as per style bulletin, with quality checking recorded, type of machine, spy, feed

dog, pressor foot, mockups for critical operations.

-Ensure operator understands operation methods, construction and quality requirement. Time

and method study for line balancing.

8
2.3 Washing department:

Classification of denim washes techniques:

Several types of garment washing for denim fabric are carried out to create varied effects in

denim garments to meet the needs of today’s denim fashion trends. However, each washing

technique has its own advantages and limitations. Denim is either rubbed or worn with stones

and other abrasive materials, called mechanical washing, or treated with bleach and other

kinds of color-altering substances, known as chemical washing.

Mechanical washes include:

 Rinse wash

 Stone wash

 Whiskering

 Microsanding including sandblasting

 Mechanical abrasion

 Laser treatment

 Chemical washing includes:

 Acid wash, ice or snow wash

 Hydrogen peroxide wash or Bleach washing

 Enzyme wash

 Ozone fading

 Spray techniques

 Overdyeing and tinting

The effects desired for denim goods change every year owing to fashion. Various washing

effects have been popularly obtained by laser, sandblasting and enzymatic washing processes.

9
In addition to these processes, hypochlorite bleaching (acid wash) is often preferred,

especially for summer denims.

General finishing sequence of denim:

There are almost countless variations of processing techniques used by designers and textile

chemists to achieve fashionable looks that are distinctive and desirable. The number of

variations is very large and the evolution of chemical and mechanical techniques is

continuing. There often are some secretive and proprietary methods. Regardless of the

specific look and name chosen, the following are the process steps normally used to attain the

desired results.

Flow Chart of Denim Finishing

Desizing
↓
Rinsing
↓
Washing (abrasion)
↓
Rinsing
↓
Softening
↓
Drying
↓
Packing

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Desizing:

The most popular method of removing starch from denim garments is to use amylase

enzyme. This product can break down the long starch molecular chains (water insoluble)

into smaller molecules (water soluble) which can be more easily washed away. The

removal of starch from the fabric being desized can also usually release some quantities of

indigo into the bath. Therefore, a neutral pH nonionic surfactant is used for suspending

loose dye in the water, to prevent redisposition onto the garments as well as to aid

penetration of the desizing liquor into the interior of the fibers. It is also important to

follow the desizing bath with a hot water rinse. Introduction of cold water onto the denim

garments at this point can re solidify the fats and waxes, and tends to redeposit the

gelatinous components unevenly on surface.

Rinse wash or Regular washing:

Rinse wash is the simplest type of industrial garment wash. The main aim is to remove starch,

dust and dirt from garments. Sometimes reasons for a normal wash include softening and

giving the garment a used look. For color garments, removal of unfixed dyes can be achieved

to improve color fastness. In special cases, intentional shrinkage in garments can be achieved.

Precautions need to be taken against unwanted shrinkage issue and back staining.

Regular washing is the simplest and most commonly used washing method for denim

garments. It is most basic wash for denim garments. Typically named a dark wash, the only

purpose of this wash is to make the garment wearable. The degree of color fading using

regular washing is comparatively slight, but it provides uniformity, depending on whether it

is deeply dyed classic denim or only moderately dyed with poor penetration. Generally

speaking, detergent is used for regular washing for about 15 min at temperatures between 60

11
°C and 90 °C. Softening is applied after the washing process. Regular washing can improve

the softness and comfort properties of denim garments as well as enhance aesthetic property.

Depending on the time and amount of chemicals used, regular washing can be classified into

(1) light washing (washing time about 5 min); (2) normal washing (washing time about 15

min); and (3) heavy washing (washing time about 30 min). However, there is no significant

distinction between light, normal and heavy regular washing as it depends on the actual

washing conditions.

Flow chart of general regular washing process is as follows:

Wetting

Desizing

Regular washing

Softening.

12
Hydrogen peroxide wash or Bleach washing:

Hydrogen peroxide is rarely used as a bleaching agent only when very little loss of colour

is required or if the fabric is coated with sulphur, because it takes longer to achieve the

desired effect. Hydrogen peroxide has a prime role in the bleach wash technique. In an

alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives off some perhydroxyl ions, which

destroy the colouring matter and result in a fading effect. Hydrogen peroxide is used in a

scouring, bleaching bath for white textile material or “ready for dyeing” form of garments

made from grey fabrics.

Stone washing:

It is one of the most popular denim wash. It gives a newly manufactured denim garments a

worn-out appearance. It also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of denim

garments otherwise fabric keep stiff and rigid.

Enzyme washing:

Enzyme wash is a process that gives denim a softer and worn-in look by breaking down the

cellulose molecules naturally found in indigo dyes. Denim washing with enzymes is one of

the most widely accepted enzyme-based. Enzyme washing of denim with various benefits

both economically and environmentally.

Acid washing:

To change the look of denim or jeans different types of washing process are done. Among

various washing process of denim, acid wash is the most popular. This is the oldest of fashion

washes in denim after stone wash.

Microsanding:

13
A fabric finishing process in which fabrics are sanded (using actual sandpaper) to make the

surface soft without hairiness can be performed before or after dyeing. In this fabric treatment

process, a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal arrangement, either wrapped with an

abrasive paper or chemically coated with an abrasive, is used to create a soft suede hand. The

denim is pulled over the face of the sand rollers, creating a raised surface finishing. Some

colour reduction is experienced.

There are three parts to this technique:

1. Sandblasting

2. Machine sanding

3. Hand sanding or hand brushing

Micro sanding is used in various ways: on flat surfaces (tables and ironing boards) or

inflatable dummies (standing, flat or seated). Various templates can be used to create a three-

dimensional (3D) effect.

Sand blasting:

Sandblasting is a mechanical process of creating fading affect/old looking effect on heavy

garments like denim and jeans. There are two types of sandblasting process: manual

sandblasting and mechanical sandblasting. Both can be deadly. In manual sandblasting,

compressors are used to blow out sand under pressure through a gun in order to bleach and

batter the denim. It is very health hazards for workers. It can give factory workers an

incurable lung disease.

Monkey wash or PP spray:

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter

than back ground indigo color shade. PP Spraying(Monkey Wash) means that to spray

potassium permanganate liquid on parts of denim according to design, then there is a

14
chemical reaction on the denim and fading begin.

Brushing/grinding:

Brushing/grinding (manual or mechanical) is used manually or mechanically for the worn-out

effect, abraded look or used look. Some mechanical processes have been developed that are

based on mechanical abrasion by which the indigo can be removed. Some of these processes

are sueding, raising, immersing, peaching and brushing.

Advantages of these processes are as follows:

Control of the abrasion.

 Different looks on the garment can be achieved.

 All are dry processes.

 Economical, ecological and environmentally friendly.

Brushing is generally being done in a rigid form of garments to get the distressed look.

Locations can be front thigh and seat or it can be overall/global application as is

standard. In the case of hand brushing, emery paper is used to brush the garments in

particular places and designs. Emery paper comes in different numbers, generally

starting from 40 to 600 and higher; the higher the number the finer is the emery paper

(i.e. a lower is a more coarse paper). In the garment industry, 220, 320 and 400 paper

numbers are most popular and widely used

Whisker:

Whiskering refers to thin fading lines formed from creases that are usually found on the front

pocket area of jeans. It is one of the most important design of a used look denim garment.

Now a days it is a common drying process for denim wash.

Ozone fading:

Ozone destroys indigo color on denim in a manner similar to bleaching. Ozone fading of

washed and bleached denim is primarily caused by the oxidative effect of ozone on the indigo

15
dye, the contaminants and the applied additives. Ozone fading gives the advantage of fading

with a minimum or hardly any loss.

Laser treatment:

Laser fading or marking is a popular dry process for denim now a day. A carbon dioxide

(CO2) laser was used for the colour-fading treatment of denim fabrics. It is sustainable,

environment friendly and emerging industrial approaches for the finishing treatments of the

denim jeans.

16
PROJECT:

17
3.1 Topic of Project:

QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING DEPARTMENT BY REDUCING

DEFECTS

3.2 Introduction:
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate quality

standard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also

costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new

product really wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture

and sale.

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as -

performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality

needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

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3.3 Quality Control:

Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and expect

value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to produce work

of good quality.

"The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in

an organization to maintain the requisite quality". As such Quality Control is seen as the

agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.

Need for the project:

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3.4 Project Objective:
1. Knowing the customer need and designing to meet them.
2. Faultless construction to maximize the production of goods within the specified
tolerances correctly the first time.
3. Certified performance and safety
4. To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the
first time.
5. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of
choice in design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for
the market.

20
21
 5.METHODOLOGY:

Basic quality control procedure in sewing line:

(a) 100% inline parts checking The operations which are difficult to re-process after
assembling is checked 100% to avoid damages and waste of time.
(b) Inline inspection
During the production of garments the operator’s finished work is audited in an inline
inspection. A quality inspector moves from one operator to another at random inspecting a
pre-determined number of parts from a finished bundle. This helps to control quality at
needle point.
(c) 100% end-line inspection
At the end of a line or section there should be a checker to inspect all the parts before they
leave the section. The inspections should be effective in identifying all defects in a garment.
The checkers should have their forms filled correctly. A good source of information to
determine the quality performance of the section is the point of 100% inspection. The section
supervisor should check the quality level at the point of 100% inspection periodically. With
this information, the supervisor should address the problems, correct the possible causes and
make plans to prevent them.
(d) Pre-final audit
A pre-final audit should be performed on packed items on a daily basis to ensure that the
good packed items are meeting the quality standards. Any problem seen can be arrested at the
early stage. If pre-final audits are done properly, the final audit of the buyer should also be
carried out without any issues.

Quality Control flow chart in Sewing Section:

Input material checking

↓
Cut panel and accessories checking

↓
Machine is in well condition

↓
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 Thread count check

↓
Special work like embroidery, printing panel check

↓
Needle size checking

↓
Stitching fault should be checked

↓
Garments measurement check

↓
Seam fault check

↓
Size mistake check

↓
Mismatching matching of trimming

↓
Shade variation within the cloth

↓
Wrong placement of interlining

↓
Creased or wrinkle appearance control

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S/L No. Process Procedure

It is the first process of quality control in sewing section. Here

all the input materials should be checked to complete all the
01 Input material check sewing processes accurately.

All the cutting panels and accessories should be checked here

Cutting panel and accessories to avoid mismatching with the other cutting parts and
02 checking trimmings.

According to buyers approved sample, right sewing machine

should be selected here to complete all the required sewing for
03 Checking sewing machine the garments.

It’s a very important matter in sewing section. Sewing thread

04 Sewing thread checking should be selected here according to buyers approved sample.

Here, required sizes needle should be selected to complete

05 Sewing needle checking fault free sewing for the garments.

Embroidery and printing If there’s any embroidery or print lies in the garments, then it
06 panel checking (If there) should be checked by maintaining buyers approved sample.

After making the garments, here garments checked to identify

07 Stitching fault checking stitch fault free garments.

After checking stitch, all the seam of garments must be checked

08 Seam fault checking here.

According to buyer’s instruction, garments measurement has to

09 Measurement checking check here.

Sometimes various types of shade variation have seen in the

10 Shade variation checking garments which should be checked here.

For submitting perfect size of garments to the buyer, an extra

11 Size mistake checking checking has needed here.

According to buyers approved sample, required trimmings of

12 Trimmings checking garments should be checked here to make fault free garments.

Interlining checking should be done here by the quality

13 Interlining checking inspector whether it is perfect or not.

Crease or wrinkle It is the last process of quality control in sewing section, where
14 appearance checking quality inspector confirms crease or wrinkle free garments.

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S.NO. LINE DHU % MAJOR DEFECTS

1. LINE A 10.4% • Mismatch

• Stitch break
• Uneven stitch

2. LINE B 11.16% • Broken stitch

• Raw edge
• Long backtack

3. LINE C 11.38% • Thread Joint

• Uneven piping
• Raw Edge

4. LINE D 9.5% • Run up stitch

• Not In Position
• Uncut thread

Seven basic tools of quality:

The Seven Basic Tools of Quality (also known as 7 QC Tools) originated in Japan when the
country was undergoing major quality revolution and had become a mandatory topic as part
of Japanese’s industrial training program. These tools which comprised of simple graphical
and statistical techniques were helpful in solving critical quality related issues. These tools
were often referred as Seven Basics Tools of Quality because these tools could be
implemented by any person with very basic training in statistics and were simple to apply to
solve quality-related complex issues.

25
The seven QC tools are:

1. Stratification (Divide and Conquer)

2. Check Sheet (Tally Sheet)
3. Cause-and-effect diagram (“fishbone” or Ishikawa diagram)
4. Pareto chart (80/20 Rule)
5. Scatter diagram (Shewhart Chart)
6. Histogram
7. Control chart

Top defects occurring in sewing section/Common Denim seam quality defects:

1. Broken stitches
2. Skipped stitches
3. Miss Match of crotch joint
4. Uneven piping/stitch
5. Twisted leg
6. Needle damage
7. Waistband line out
8. Uncut Thread
9. Bar tack missing
10. Run up stitch

26
Cause and effect analysis of defects:

Broken stitches

Causes:
M- Inappropriate thread tension. Needle plate, pressure foot, needle holes may have sharp
edges.
M-Wrong needle size and thread size
M-Weak thread

With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the reasons, or problem
are:-
 Tension variation in lopper and needle.

 SPI of machine is low.

 Speed of machine is high.

 SOP not followed.

 Improper threading.

 Thread, Needle or fabric combination is not proper.

27
 Skipped stitches

Causes:
M-Operator in efficiency
M-Hook or needle is not able to hold the thread loop in proper time, Needle deflection or
bending, Tension variation in needle thread.
M-Loop size or needle is small, Improper handling of cut pieces.

With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the reasons, or
problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-
 Needle size and thread weight are mismatched
 Incorrect alignment
 Needle bent, Point damage, Thin
 Wrong thread for the application
 Bobbin empty.

28
 Uneven piping

Causes:
M -Operator speeding up machine too rapidly, Operator holding back or pulling fabric
through in variance with correct machine feed, Operator inefficiency.
M –Needle deflection or bending, Tension variation in looper and needle thread.
M –Loop size or needle is small, Improper handling of cut pieces.

• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the reasons, or
problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-
 Feed dog or pressure is not parallel
 Needle bent, Point damage, Thin
 Needle thread or fabric combination is not proper
 Excessive operation speed.

29
Untrimmed thread

Raw edges

Causes:
M –Improper seaming by the operator.
M –Improper folding.

With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the reasons, or
problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-
 Miss alignment
 No guide

30
Methoddology:
• I have started inspecting garments and found some defects on each line.
• According to my collected data, DHU% & major FIVE defects of each line are given
below:-
• After this, I worked on each line for finding the root cause behind all the major
defects.
From Pareto Analysis, I have identified the top defect positions and by further analyzing top
five defect types were identified in those positions

31
Broken Stitches:
Someplace in the stitch line where the stitch doesn’t get formed
Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (Example bar tacks
on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure

Solution:
-Use the larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
-Making sure the proper stitch balance is used. On a chain stitch seam on denim, you
normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of needle thread to looper thread in
the seam.
-The sewing tension in the needle should be proper.
-Using needles with correct needle point.
-Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the needle cuts are occurring
frequently.

Skipped stitches:
Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop.
Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs
right before or right after the heavy thickness.

32
Solution:
-Using minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch
-Using the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging
-Training sewing operators not to stop on the thickness.
-Making sure the machine is feeding properly without stalling.
Twisted legs:
It is where the side seam twists around to the front of the pant and distorts the appearance of
the jeans.
Solution:
-Usually caused by poor operator handling. Instructing the sewing operator to match the front
and back properly so they come out the same length. Sometimes notches are used to insure
proper alignment.
-Making sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the assembly operation.
-Making sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top and
bottom plies.
Run up stitch:
It is the area on the stitched seam where there is a splice on the stitch line. If this occurs on
topstitching, then the seam doesn’t appear to be 1st quality merchandise.

33
Solution:
-Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments
-Making sure sewing machine are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing
operation
-Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.
Use a better quality sewing thread, this may include going to a higher performance thread
designed to minimize sewing interruptions.
Uneven piping:
Where the seam doesn’t lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or
during subsequent laundering or handling operations.

34
Solution:
-Using minimum presser foot pressure.
-Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not stretch the fabric as they
are making the seam.
-Where available use differential feed to compensate for the stretch of the fabric.
Untrim thread:
Few of the garments picked up by the operator for the removal of unnecessary threads or
trims are not properly done.

Solution:

-Providing adequate training to the operators and providing thread cutter to every operator
and make used to it.
-To cut thread properly, start regularly checking system to check the auto trimming machine
is properly functioning or not.

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Root causes analysis in ‘4M’s:

Man Machine Method Material

1. Carelessness 1. Proper thread 1. Insufficient 1. Poor quality

2. Unskilled tension. thread with fabric.
operators 2. Excessive respect to the 2. Poor quality
3. Margin not pressure on length of stitch. threads.
followed properly pressure foot. 2. Machine speed 3. Poor quality
during stitching. 3. Machine is is too high. needles.
4. Improper feeding. thread incorrectly. 3. The stitch is too
5. Lake of 4. Dull sewing m/c long for the type
understanding 5. Dull sewing of in work.
about the whole machine needle 4. Thread break
operation. made or beat during the
needle. sewing.
5. Improper
feeding.

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Pareto analysis of defects:

A Pareto chart, also called a Pareto distribution diagram, is a vertical bar graph in which
values are plotted in decreasing order of relative frequency from left to right. Pareto charts
are extremely useful for analyzing what problems need attention first because the taller bars
on the chart, which represent frequency, clearly illustrate which variables have the greatest
cumulative effect on a given system.

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38
Sewing End table DHU as on 4th week of august:

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Sewing End table DHU as on 2nd week of September:

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8. CONCLUSION:

Quality control plays an important role in readymade garments production. Now a

days buyer requires specific quality in all major parts of the finished products. What

special in this report is the info data and description very much objective and

practical. I have tried to complete my project work as much as I can.

Quality control plays a vital role in denim garments production. Nowadays buyer

requires specific quality in all major parts of the finished products. What special in

this report is that the information data and description very much objective &

practical. We have tried to complete this project work as much we can. It will help us

to maintain the quality of the garments in garments production.

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9. REFRENCES:

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