200 Series Coilover Instruction and Parts List

One way to make a coilover base for your 200 series Volvo
By Robbie Tice
Disclaimer: I am not to be held responsible for what you do, this is merely a guide to help out.
I am using 1997 Saab 900SE Turbo, KYB Excel-G front strut inserts for this conversion. (#366010)
I did have to grind the housing inside a couple thousandths to get these KYBs to fit. (Maybe from the weld?)
Step 1: Get 2 suitable strut/knuckle assemblies.
Step 2: Disassemble springs, strut insert, hub, bearings, etc.

Step 3: Cut off the spring perch as low and close to the weld as possible.
DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP!

(My cut was a little high)
Smack the bottom of the perch with a hammer to separate it from strut
assembly.
Step 4: Grind off the remaining weld from the perch, and paint from the strut.
I used a standard grinding wheel.
Step 5: Mark your cut lines.
I used some Zinc-Rich primer on the bare metal to better see my scribe marks. I
recommend using a caliper to measure and mark the lines.
With the gland nut removed, measure out 1.251” and mark all the way around.
The extra .001 is because of the fact that one tip of the caliper is over the edge of
the strut top, causing a slightly shorter distance than stated on the gauge.
Then measure 3.501” from the top. (That will make it a 2 ¼” cut out)
Measure two, three, four times…. and cut straight, once!

Step 6: Cut straighter than you’ve ever cut before.
Cut on both lines you marked. I used a portable band saw to make the 2 cuts.
2.25” (2-1/4”) is removed from under the first line. (Keep this chunk for later)
2.25” is the distance between the two lines you marked
Deburr the inside!!

(So your strut insert can fit without hitting the shards of cut metal)
Step 7: Secure the 1.25” threaded piece to the bottom piece.
(MAKE SURE THE THREADS ARE AT THE TOP OF THE UPPER PIECE)
I used angle iron and some standard hose clamps to keep things straight/secure.
Step 8: Weld that beast up!! Clean ALL oils and paint, in and out of weld zone!
Make sure you have enough penetration, but not so much that you have to
spend hours filing down the metal that has melted through into the strut inserts
space. (I used TIG, MIG could work) Also, I put the gland nut back in for welding
to help dissipate the heat/resist warping threads. Yes, my welds are ugly.
Step 9: Grind down the welds and the body of the strut housing.
You need to grind, then test fit the coilover sleeve, then grind. Ideally you’d
measure the inside of the sleeve, and the outside of the strut housing to try to
get them close. Keep the strut housing slightly bigger so it’s a nice tight fit.
Speaking of the sleeve, this is the kit I used from Coleman racing;
Part number 450-501 5” adjuster sleeve with a 2.08 inside diameter.

Step 10: Paint all of the bare metal with a high-zinc paint or primer.
The extra Zinc in the paint will help cut down the chance of
rusting.
Part number I used is Krylon RUST TOUGH 9240.
Step 11: Hammer, or place on the adjuster sleeve.

I used a rubber mallet with some PB Blaster as lube. I left the adjusting nut on
the sleeve at the bottom to help resist bulging of the aluminum sleeve. Use
common sense when doing this, if you get it half on and it’s too tight….you won’t
get it back off. Bad situation there. It took some effort to get mine on. They sit
just barely (I really mean just a tiny bit) below the top of the strut housing.
Step 12: Make a stop for the adjusting sleeve.
So, did you save one of those 2-1/4” pieces of metal you cut out? What I did was
cut 2 rings out of that metal, about ¼” or so in thickness. Then I cut through the
ring in one spot so I could stretch out the metal. I placed the ring directly under
the sleeve on the strut housing. Weld on the bottom of the ring, then work your
way around, making sure the ring stays snug against the housing and sleeve.
Step 13: Clean and Paint.

Mask off the sleeves, bearing surface, and anything else you don’t want painted.
Now you are done with the base of this set up!
This original picture is using IPD lowering spring that are cut a couple coils.
This one is using the coilovers and they are at full drop.
My Parts List
Coilover Parts
Coleman Racing kit # 450-501
STRUT INSERTS
I am using 1997 Saab 900SE Turbo KYB Excel-G front strut inserts for these. (#366010)
I’ve heard people have also used Monroe 73264 inserts.
Because of the weld, I did have to grind down the inside of the housing (near the weld) a
couple thousandths to get these KYBs to fit.
You can also send your Bilstein HD’s back to Bilstein to get them shortened and a re-valve.
I used a brake hone tool to make sure everything was straight. I bought the hone from eBay.
I also had to slim down the nubbin on the bottom of the KYB insert to fit inside the Volvo
bottom strut washer things.
Bilstein HD Gland Nuts GLAND NUTS Factory Style Gland Nuts

(Gland nuts hold the insert inside the housing)
My car had Bilstein HD’s in them, which means the gland nuts ONLY work for those. You’ll
have to get stock gland nuts (right) if your car had the Bilstein HD nuts (left).
SPRINGS
I went with 350LB 2.5 Diameter x 8” tall springs from Coleman Racing. Part number 17296.
TOP MOUNT
I used ScottyD camber plates. DoucheNozzle is his profile name on TurboBricks
Good luck!

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One way to make a coilover base for your 200 series Volvo

Step 1: Get 2 suitable strut/knuckle assemblies.

Step 2: Disassemble springs, strut insert, hub, bearings, etc.

DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP!

Measure two, three, four times…. and cut straight, once!

Deburr the inside!!

Part number 450-501 5” adjuster sleeve with a 2.08 inside diameter.

Step 11: Hammer, or place on the adjuster sleeve.

Step 13: Clean and Paint.

Bilstein HD Gland Nuts GLAND NUTS Factory Style Gland Nuts

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