SETTING UP K63/65 CARBS.

First of all, If you have not already done so, remove the carbs from the bike. Carefully dismantle one carb and lay out the bits in some sort of logical order on a sheet of newspaper. Clean the crud out of the float bowl and blow through all the passages in the carb body with compressed air. For the next bit you will need some Loctite hydraulic sealant (Ordinary thread lock appears to work too, we found out by accident!) Take the jet block, this is the square block with the round hole that goes in through the top of the carb. Turn it upside-down and you will see a raised ring with threads in the middle. Put a thin coat of Loctite round the outside of the ring and place it in the carb ensuring that it is square to the carb body. Next take the needle jet assembly that screws in from the bottom of the carb into the jet block. Apply a thin coat of Loctite to the threads and under the hexagon. Insert the needle jet assembly through the carb into the jet block and tighten down. You may have to wedge the jet block with a screwdriver to stop it rotating out of square with the cab body. What all this does is seal the emulsion chamber from any air leaks due to poor tolerances. Now refit the main jet, choke jet and idle jet, also using Loctite. There should be a little black D-shaped washer under the idle jet. It is supposed to lock the needle jet assembly in place, which it never does. This can be safely binned.

JET BLOCK

SEALANT HERE SEALANT HERE

NEEDLE JET IDLE JET

The next thing is to install the float. The float needle has a tiny clear plastic ring on the end. THIS YOU MUST NOT LOSE! If you do you will have to buy a new carb repair kit and these are becoming hard to find. Apparently the float needle from a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower fits but I have not checked this so far. Now place the float chamber gasket on the face on the carb. Next hang the needle from the float and lower it into its hole at the same time as lining up the float and spindle holes. Insert the float spindle. Now look at the horizontal line on the side of the float. This should be parallel with the top of the float chamber (The book says 13mm from this line to the float chamber face on the carb body). The little brass tang on the float chamber should be CAREFULLY bent to make this so. The tang-to-float joint area is a weak spot and frequently leaks. As a precautionary measure it can be filleted with a small bead of epoxy resin. Sometimes the float legs are twisted so that you can only get one side parallel. In this case just average the difference. Now refit the float bowl checking that the gasket does not interfere with the movement of the float. If it does it should be trimmed.

Next check that both faces of the slide are parallel and there are no burrs on the top of the carb where the slide goes in. The long sides of the square hole that the slide fits into are frequently bowed. If you are feeling brave then mount the carb in a vice and use a broad brass drift and smallish hammer to gently tap them straight. Do not try for complete perfection here as the carb body may crack! Just make it so the slide goes in easily. If you have K63 carbs check the length of the needle to the threaded plate at the top of the carb. Usually they are totally different. The base setting is that the plate should be 72+/-0.15mm from the tip. K65 clip position also seems to vary. I set it in the middle but if the motor feels lumpy I lower the needle a notch. Assemble the slide, spring and top of the carb and fit it into the top of the carb body. The cut-out in the slide goes toward the air filter side. Be careful not to put the needle in the wrong hole and don't use force. If you have to there is something wrong. Screw in the idle mixture screws in till they GENTLY seat in the carb body. These are the screws with the sharp points with springs over them. The base setting for these screws is 1 turns out but experience has show me that Urals seem to like around 3 turns and Dnepr around 2 turns out. Final adjustment should be carried out once the engine is synchronised by using a Colour Tune or a well practised ear! I find that if you screw the mixture adjuster in till the engine just begins to miss and then screw until it just misses, count the turns between the two points then set it half way it usually works fine. Once you have both carbs done and fitted to the bike take a two 7mm drill bits and place the so that the front of the slides traps them by there parallel sections. Next screw out the hexagon on the top of the carb so that the resistance when you gently draw on the drill bits. You should try for about the same resistance on both sides. This sets up the idle synchronisation. Now open the throttle until the front of the slides are both just level with the top of the carb bore. If they are not they should be adjusted using the screws on the throttle cable. Reconnect the rubber trumpets, check the bike over and start it. The idle speed will be too high. Reduce it using the hexagonal screw on the top of the carbs, turning each screw one flat at a time. To finally set the carb balance the Ural book suggests a method shorting out each individual plug with throttle cracked open and the back wheel jacked up. I have never done this but it sounds the best way as it balances the engine by load not airflow, as is the usual way. Some people use a Twinmax and some outfit there bikes with take-offs for a vacuum gauge. These all work.

Synchronisation Adjuster

Idle Speed Adjuster

Idle Mixture Adjuster

MORE TIPS Some stuff I missed because I was in a hurry. The enrichment circuit plunger. There are two types of rubber seal on these. one is a single piece of tube and is OK. The other is made up of two rubber disks, 6mm in diameter if my memory serves me correctly. If you look at these disks under a magnifying glass you may find they have a criss-cross pattern on them. Mine certainly had. I used a hole punch to knock up some replacements from fuel resistant rubber. Then bored a 1mm hole in the middle. After doing this I had to make slight adjustments to the idle settings. I strongly suspect the rubber disks do not seal properly and allow fuel into the enrichment circuit under high carburetor vacuum. Also seal the enrichment jet using Loctite. K63/65 DIFFERANCES The needle jet assembly from one type cannot be used with the needle jet from the other. The needle jet assembly on the K63 is all brass and is stamped 278 ( 2.78 internal diameter ). The coresponding needle is also brass and threaded for adjustment. The K65 needle jet assembly has a steel insert and, on VERY occasional instances, may be stamped 265.The K65needle is steel and adjusted by moving a clip up or down. FURTHER IMPROVEMENTS The standard main jet ( # 165 this refers to flow rate in cc/min. ) is too rich for the Ural but fine for the Dnepr. I suspect because of the more tortuous inlet arrangement on the Ural. I did a little experimenting using a donkey exhaust system fitted with a lambda sensor from a fuel injection system. I found out that a type of Del Orto main jet has the same thread and fits like it was meant too. The part number is 1486.xx, were the x's denote the jet size in hundredths of a millimeter. My bike, with K65s, ran smoother with 1486.100 jet. (This was with a 2 into 1 exhaust but the bike felt a touch weak when I fitted a 2 into 2 exhaust.) I was a bit fed up with not getting a good idle with the mixture screw at anything less than 2 turns out. This far out means that the screw is on the limits of its adjustment range. I decided to experiment with Idle jets. As Ikov jets are unobtainable I made some up using Dell Orto jets extended with short pieces of copper brake tube. I ended up with a 40 jet and the mixture screw out 1 turns. As the idle jet feeds fuel into the engine throughout the range of throttle openings I decided to put a 105 jet in to compensate. The bike ran beautifully and MUCH smoother. It runs better round town also using less fuel in town. I will get round to trying this on a friends MT11 over the next couple of months. I will try a 45 idle jet with a 110 main to start of with. I did try cutting 1mm of the bottom of the slide to richen the mixture as the engine came off the idle jet calibration and on to the needle jet calibration range. This was not a success.

Indications were that the K65 needle could be optimised further. I found an alternative set of needles in the Dell Orto catalogue. At the moment I am experimenting with a V3 needle. This needle is the same length as the Ikov but the taper starts earlier than the K65 but not as early as the K63. The needle is also slightly fatter at the tip than a K65 needle. I still have some experimenting to do to find out if its worth the trouble of changing needles. My arse dynamometer says it is. One further experiment I carried out was to remove the strangler choke fitted to the Ural and replace it with some short 38mm diameter stubs. These stubs had a 5mm rounded flare at the entrance end, were 90mm long and made from car exhaust pipe. My reasoning was that Dnepr do fine without them and I suspected that the long, thin slot in the choke was creating turbulence in the intake tract. This modification was very successful. The engine ran better everywhere in the rev range. I can go down to 40km/h in top and then accelerate without any drama.

My airfilter box is one of the Russian go-aster oval metallic type that uses a cylindrical paper filter. This is less restrictive that the round plastic one filled with copped up fishing line. I do plan to fit a K&N type filter to the round plastic box and try that. There is a filter for a Stihl chain saw that looks like it will fit. I have previously tried with a filter meant for a Ford Fiesta but the crankcase breather contaminated the filter with water vapour. The Fiesta filter require removing all the contents of the round box where the Stihl filter will allow me to retain the inner part that shrouds the filter from

the crankcase vapour. The middle tube will require removal though. I am also going to experiment with a cheap conical K&N style filter fitted to the tube in the orrigional Russian box. The lid of the round Russian box also has to be raised or it causes a restriction. I have also heard on the grapevine of somebody involved with a rally team in the UK ( Subaru? ) who also installed an air jet as per Mikuni to good effect. My research in this direction has hit a dead end and my experiment was inconclusive. Can anybody help with any information on this modification? All in all I like these carbs as they are robust and tolerate abuse and maladjustment and still keep the engine running acceptably. I hope you got all this and find it useful. This is the way I do it and I can get my bikes so that I can read the car number plate behind me in the mirror. William Thomson [email protected]