Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)

Unit 6: Part 1: Skin Care Products

FACT OR FICTION FIVE MAIN LAYERS OF EPIDERMIS
Skin loses water continuously even without sweating Fact Stratum Corneum
The outer surface of the skin is made up of dead cells Fact • AKA horny layer
Women’s skin is more acidic than men’s skin Fiction o Composed of very thick layers of dead cells.
Men tend to age earlier than women Fiction o Just like the horns and cells of animals.
• Is the outermost and topmost layer of the epidermis
STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF THE HUMAN SKIN • The dead cells continuously shed until they are replaced by the
• Skin is the major target and touch point for most cosmetics and cells from the next layer which is the stratum lucidum.
personal care products.
• Skin care products are used to clean, moisturize, peel, and to protect • Natural barrier of the skin
the skin or prevent skin diseases. • “brick and mortar” structure
• Is a complex organ which is made up of: Ø Made up of corneocytes – tightly packed, water resistant
o Dead cells dead cells
o Connective tissues o Embedded on intercellular lamellar lipid membrane
o Epithelium muscles - aid in movement (layers of lipids) that is made up of cholesterol, fatty
o Nerves acids, and ceramides. This matrix waterproofs the
o Blood vessels - provide nutrients and oxygen epidermis, prevents dehydration, and provides
o Appendages - hair, nails, sweat glands (sebaceous glands, moisture permeability to SC.
eccrine glands which are concentrated on the soles of your feet - If you take a shower you notice the water not
and apocrine glands, found dominantly on the armpits or on the completely being absorbed by the skin, it only
groin) adheres to your skin. This is because your skin is
• Skin is the largest sensory and contact organ in the human body waterproof.
consisting of two main layers, namely the epidermis and dermis.
• Hypodermis o Protected by a cornified envelope
o 3rd layer; consists mainly of fat cells. - Water barrier function.
o Not considered as a component of the skin - Consists of two components: proteins and
ceramide lipids
- Hydrophobic in nature
- Provide hydrophobic surface to the corneal sites

o Bound together with corneodesmosomes

- Stick-like structures that link one corneocyte from
another.
- Are rivets of the horny layer; composed of
proteins and ceramides

o Contain natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

- Natural humectants
- Hygroscopic in nature meaning they absorb
moisture from the environment keeping the skin
hydrated.
EPIDERMIS
- Main ingredient: amino acids and their
• Outer layer of the skin that functions as a protective layer against
derivatives
external influences.
• A part of the skin that we see, it is where the hair shaft is connected The lipid matrix outside (intercellular lipid membrane) helps prevent the
and this is the part of the skin that is mostly exposed to the outside loss of these natural moisturizing factors because their components are
environment. water soluble. If you take a shower and water lands on your skin, polar
would attract polar, so the water from the shower would attract these
• Differs on the thickness depending on the location of the skin. NMF or factor components since they are water soluble. If that happens
o Thick skin area - found on the palms of the hands and soles then the natural humectant of the skin would be gone but since you
of the feet and has all five layers. have a cornified envelope and a lipid matrix outside it would protect
o Thin skin area – covers the rest of the body, does not have a NMF from coming out of the skin.
stratum lucidum and has a thinner stratum corneum (SC)
than thick skin. Problem when the skin dehydrates because of the use of harsh cleansing
soaps.
• Composed of five main layers: • The corneocytes would shrink and would have cracks so once na
(1) Stratum corneum nag-crack yung corneocytes, mas madali mag penetrate yung mga
(2) Stratum lucidum external irritants or allergens. It can trigger local inflammatory
(3) Stratum granulosum response which could cause itchiness or discomfort or further
(4) Stratum spinosum damage to the skin.
(5) Stratum basale
That is why it is important that we have these water resistant lipid layers
and cornified envelopes to keep our skin hydrated by also protecting the
NMF inside the skin.

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 1

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 6: Part 1: Skin Care Products
OTHER CELL TYPES: • Also known as cornification process
1. Melanocytes • The process by which the cells of epidermis are renewed.
o Responsible for melanin production.
o Found in the basal layer of the skin 1. It begins in the basal layer where new skin cells known as
o Melanin – skin color, photoprotection against UV light keratinocytes are formed and are continuously pushed upwards.
o Carotene
- another pigment responsible for skin color; gives 2. As keratinocytes are pushed upward through the different layers
the skin an orange to yellowish color. of the epidermis, they go through a “makeover” where the
- If you eat too much carrots which contain a lot of composition and the shape of the cells change significantly.
carotene à orange coloration of your skin
o Albinism 3. By the time the cells reach the third layer, stratum granulosum,
- A condition where individuals are not able to most cells would have stopped dividing and have started
synthesize melanin. producing keratin. As keratin develops, keratinocytes becomes
- No brown or dark coloration around the body flattened cells their membrane thickens, and becomes less
- Common appearance: very milky or very white permeable.
skin, they have pale or colorless hair and
sometimes they have pink or blue iris or eye color. 4. By the time they reach the SC, they are dead skin cells, which are
eventually shed from the surface of the skin. The shedding process
2. Langerhans cells – Body’s immune system is called as desquamation. The turnover of the epidermis usually
happens in about 4 weeks. For 2 weeks they are part of the SC then
3. Merkel cells - Touch receptor; placed close to the sensory nerve for the next 2 weeks they shed from the surface of the skin. As the
endings in the stratum basale. connection provided by the corneodesmosomes is very tight,
keratinized cells are generally shed in large groups or sheets rather
Basic Functions than individual cells.
Maintaining optimal Immune
Photoprotection
water content protection
Antioxidant Providing skin DERMIS
Limiting water loss
barrier color • Supporting frame of epidermis.
Allowing for • Supplies epidermis with nutrients and oxygen via the blood capillaries.
Sustaining optimal lipid Vitamin D
desquamation of • Contains:
content synthesis
SC cells
Fibroblasts Prodcution of collagen fibers
IMPORTANT NOTE: Nerves and Responsible for transmitting sensory signals
Epidermis contains no blood vessels and so it depends on the dermis for sensory organs
the supplementation of nutrients and oxygen. To supply oxygen and nutrients as well as to regulate
Blood vessels
the body temperature
Stratum Lucidum • Found all over the body except for the plams,
• AKA translucent or clear layer soles, and dorsum of the feet.
• Composed of densely packed or rows of densely packed flat dead Sebaceous
cells. glands • Usually concentrated in the face and scalp
Stratum Granulosum (madalas oily parts ng skin), these areas are
• Also called the granular layer prone to acne and other skin disorders.
• From the word itself, granules can be observed in the cells. Sweat glands Regulates body temperatre
• Composed of layers of flat and keratinocytes that begin to die. Hair follicles
Stratum Spinosum Connective
• Also called the prickle cell layer tissue
• Is a thick layer of cells; these cells are responsible for lipid and • Produced in the dermis; these fibers would
protein synthesis. give the skin its strength.
Collagen
Stratum Basale • Plays an important role in wound healing
• AKA stratum germinativum or basal cell layer
• Deepest layer Responsible for the skin’s elasticity
Elastin
• Made up of single layer cells
• In this layer the cells divide continuously to form new
keratinocytes. HYPODERMIS
• Also found in this layer are Melanocytes which contain Melanin, • Fat layer beneath the dermis
Langerhans cells (important for the immune system function), and • Functions:
Merkel cells. o Acts as a cushioning layer to protect the vital organs from
trauma.
KERATINIZATION PROCESS OF THE SKIN o Provides protection against cold
o Serves as an energy deposit for the body
o Defines the body’s contours

There are numerous way on which we could assess the quality of the skin:
A. MOISTURE CONTENT OF THE SKIN
• Also known as the water level in the superficial layer of the skin.
• In normal skin, there is a continuous movement of water from the
deepest layer going up to the superficial layer or the stratum corneum
where the water usually evaporates.
• In skin with normal water content, it is bserved to be soft, smooth and
glowing.

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 2

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 6: Part 1: Skin Care Products
• However, when there is lower in normal water content, the lines of th (2) Transient flora
skin would be more visibile. it would feel tight, dry and sometimes o consists of nonpathogenic or potentially pathogenic
there would be itching, redness and irritation. microorganisms that inhibit the skin and mucous membranes
for hours, days, or even weeks
2 Indices for skin’s barrier function: o easier to remove by mechanical friction than the resident flora
How this is this related? o Nakukuha natin from other things, soil and dirty areas.
o normally hindi siya nakakaharm if you have enough resident
• If your skin has a good barrier function thru the lipids, then water wuld flora.
not easily evaporate/ but if the barrier function is disrupted- there o When transient flora is too high, to the point that hindi na siya
would be a increase in evaporation or loss of water.this is described nalalaban ng amount of resident flora which is normally
by TEWL. there- then that is the time that transient would disturb the
uality and integrity of the skin. Which would colonized, divide
(1) Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and produe cysts in the skin.
• describes the total amount of water lost from the skin (g of
water/meter square per hour C. NORMAL SKIN PH
• gaano kadaming tubig ang nag eevaporate in the skin. • The normal pH os the skin is pH 4.5 and 5.5 (slightly acidic) –
• If normal ang amount of water- ang barrier function ay “acid mantle of the skin”
intact. Pero if masyado mataas- possible na nasisira ang • We wanted to maintain the skin and cosmetic products
barrier function or nasisira ang lipid function of the skin. around this pH. To not cause irritation.
• diffusion of water through the skin.
• Increase in pH leads to:
(1) reduced desquamation
(2) Skin hydration – water content of the Stratum Corneum (2) dry and scaly skin
(3) an optimal environment for the growth of pathogenic bacteria
• Generally, water is necessary to maintain the flexibility of the
skin. Because if the skin became overly dry or dehydrated- then D. SURFACE CHARGE OF THE SKIN
it would lose its ability to stretch. When it loses this ability- • we can determine the surface charge of the skin via the
madali syang mac-crack and peel. isoelectricpoint.
• Isoelectric point (pI) - occurs at the pH where the positive and
• Too fast shedding of the skin in the outer layer- will trigger pag- negative charges are balanced.
gawa ng new cells in the deepest layer. So, mag i-increase yung • Neutral charge is 3.5-4.5 - balance ang positive and negative
rate of cell production in the Basal Layer. charge of the skin.
• Kung ang pH ng skin mas mataas sa pl, then the charge is
• Pag masyado mabilis ang rate- hindi magkakaroon ng enough negative. But if the normal skin pH is lower than pl then it has
time ang cells to grown, mature and perform their functions. a positive charge.
• One of the most important is the Barrier. (providing the lipid • Skin’s pI – 3.5-4.5 → ang normal skin pH is 4.5 and 5.5.
barrier that would maintain the dehydration of the skin) therefore: skin has a negative charge at physiological pH
• If hindi naging maayos ang pag-bigay ng Barrier- this will (because the skin pH is higher than the pl)
weaken the skin and will be prone to damage and to further • Why it is important to know the charge?- yung attraction niya
dehydration. sa cosmetic product will depend on the surface charge, since
the skin has a negative charge- it would attract postive charge.
• Water alone would not increase and maintain the kin’s (opposite attracts) kaya ang mga finoformulate na product is
moisture level. Kailangan nandyan pa rin ang lipid layer to may positive charge para maging attractive siya sa skin.
prevent evaporation of the skin.
• Kahit na marami ang water content of the skin, kung mabilis • For example: Ingredients with positive charges are attracted to
yan mag evaporate- maggiging dry din ang skin and not good it.
ang quality. • Application: Antiseptic hand washes and hand sanitizers
(contains positively charge surfactants molecules to make the
• Important ang nag po-protect sa kaniya- which is the LIPID positive charge will be compatible to the negative charge of the
Layer. (binabukaran nya ang water for it to stay sa skin and to skin) that is why the antiseptic hand washes stay in the skin for
make it hydrated enough. an extended period of time, so mas nagiging effecive sila.
• Kapag dry ang hair- mas tumataas ang negative charge niya. So
• Damaged skin → compromised barrier function → increase in we apply conditioning agents with cationic surfactants or
TEWL → water loss will decrease the barrier’s ability even more positive charge surfactants.

B. NORMAL FLORA OF THE SKIN CLASSIFICATION OF VARIOUS SKIN TYPES

• Normally, the human skin is inhabited with different bcteria A. Fitzpatrick classification: Based on Sensitivity to Ultraviolet
and fungi. Light (this correlates the skin color of an individual with their
• In normal circumstances, their amount is harmless and ability to tan or burn with UV exposure)
beneficial as they fight off pathogenic bacteria (these are
harmful bacteria) • Not a very reliable and accurate basis for skin
classification.
Microbes on the skin are generally divided into two
categories: Type I o extremely sun sensitive Very fair skin, with red and
o burns very easily blond hair, blue eyes,
(1) Resident flora o never tans freckles
o a protects the host from pathogenicbacteria
o cannot be easily removed from the skin by mechanical friction ex: Non-asians, americans
o not harmful, not unless the amount of resident flora is not Type II o very sun sensitive Fair skin, red or blond hair,
enough to fight off the transient flora. o burns easily blue, hazel, or green eyes
o tans minimally
Type III o sun sensitive cream white to olive skin,
o gradually tans to a fair with mainly brown or

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Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 6: Part 1: Skin Care Products
o light brown and sandy hair, any eye color generally, individuals with oily skin tend to suffer more
sometimes burns (very on acne and dandruff especially adolescents.
common skin type) ex: Filipinos
Type IV o Minimal sun sensitivity dark brown skin, dark • combination of normal and oily skin, or of oily
o Always tans to a brown hair, and green, Combination and dry skin
moderate brown with hazel, or brown eyes skin • has a tendency to be greasy in the central T-zone
minimal burning of the forehead, nose, and chin.
Type V o tans well dark brown skin, dark • while skin on the other areas (cheeks and
o very rarely burns black hair and dark brown hairline) is normal or dry
eyes
Type VI o sun insensitive deeply pigmented black • can also be concerned with other types of the
o always tans and skin, black hair, dark body like genital, hands, scalp.
o never burns brown eyes Sensitive • It is more on a complex derma condition instead
skin of a skin type.
type 4-6 can stay for a long
period of time. • a complex dermatological condition of having
abnormal sensory symptoms:
Note: everybody regardless of their race and ethnicity has the potential to (1) tingling
experience adverse effects from overexposure of the sun. sometimes (2) chafing
depending your skin type. It would depends on which degree of (3) burning
sunexposure would lead harm to your skin. (4) prickling
(5) pain or pruritus (or itchiness)
B. Skin Types Based on Hydration State and Lipid Content
• A skin type may not be constant. You could develop dry • this is because the ksin barrier is altered so mas
skin and oily skin. Depending on the factors that affect the mabilis mag enter ang external irritatns or
hydration state orl ipid content. allergens in the skin. Kayanag cacause ng
inflammatory action.
• it could be internal factors like lipid content, ph, hydration
state. Can be external factor like temperure, humidity, Uv Contributing factors: chemicals, physical factors,
light and where ka nag s-stay. microorganisms, psychological factors and hormones

• not too oily, not too dry, structurally and Four distinct types of sensitive skin:
functionally (1) Acne
• balanced has fine pores, is smooth, well supplied (2) Rosacea
Normal skin with blood. (3) burning and stinging
• no severe sensitivity, and has a radiant (4) contact dermatitis (- AAD)
complexion

C. Skin Types Based on Gender

• scaly, rough, and dull → tautness and itchiness
• has red patches with less elasticity and a rough HORMONAL AND AGE DIFFERENCES
• complexion Men Women
Dry skin Androgen Estrogen
• not enough water content, not flexible and • (Sexual hormone)
elastic ang skin. • increases the thickness of • negatively regulates body
• More liekly to develop wrinkles and lead to the skin hair growth
premature aging. • male skin is approximately • affects body fat
• “Use moisturizer para hindi agad tumanda ang 25% thicker than that of distribution, and positively
balat” women impacts wound repair rates
• have higher collagen • they have lower collagen
Contributing factors: low relative humidity (mababa content. content at base line. So it
ng moisture content ng environment), cold weather, • Presence of facial hair woild show more visible
sunlight, repeated contact with water, surfactants covered fine lines. signs of aging. Sine collagen
removes natural lipid of the skin depending on how contributes to good quality
strong they are), and solvents, numerous skin diseases Therefore, men appear to age and thickness of the skin.
and dietary deficiencies slower than women. (this is in
relatin to thickness and thinness
• develops with the onset of puberty (bc during and facial hair of the skin which
puberty thre is an influx of hormones. And covered the fine lines)
Oily skin hormones are responsible for sebum production.
• High hormones = high sebum production = more
prone to oily skin. SKIN THICKNESS
• enlarged pores → very shiny (bc of the Men Women
overactivity o the sebaceous glands) Gradually thins with advancing • Stays more constant until
• most visible on the forehead, nose, chin, and are age. (mas tumatanda, nag thithin menopause. Upon entering
oily to the touch ang skin) menopause, female skin
progressively thins
Contributing factors: genetic inheritance, hormonal • After menopause palang
changes, diet (too oily foods), stress, and external mag thithin ang skin. Since,
agents menopause is one of the
basis that hormonal
regulation takes part.

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 4

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 6: Part 1: Skin Care Products
SEBUM CONTENT • If we target men’s product- we know what is the pH of the
Men Women men.
• Higher at all body locations • Sebaceous gland activity • If we target older people- we know that we need more
and in all age groups decreases over lifetime, moisturizing ingredients sinc emas mabilis mag dry up ang skin
• Sebaceous gland activity especially from the age of nila. (claims that reduces fines line mositurizer for old people)
remains stable in men with 50-60 • It helps us to individualize the personal and cosmetic products
aging • Lowering of sebum more
content= lowering the lipid
of stratum corneum = FACT OR FICTION
lowering barrier function Skin loses water continuously even without sweating Fact
The outer surface of the skin is made up of dead cells.
Fact
• So more prone to cracks (epidermis and SC is packed with dead cells)
and dryness. Women’s skin is more acidic than men’s skin. (bc men tend
• Related to reduced estrogen to sweat more and it affects the pH of the skin, making it Fiction
(so hormonal din). As more acid)
women grew older, Men tend to age earlier than women. (since men have
estrogen level lowers thicker skin and facial hair, mas na-coconceal ang aging ng Fiction
therefore sebum production skin. And bc of Higher collagen content also.
also decreases.

TEWL
• TEWL- amount of water that is lost or evaporated on the skin.

• lower in men than in women under the age of 50

• Lower TEWL= mas matagal mag evaporate ang water.
• Meaning: mas konti ang water loss sa Men compared to women.
• This is related to sebum content- in Men ang production ng sebum
nila is throughout or stable. This sebum helps protect the water
content, para hindi agad mag-escape.
• Pero in women, pag tumatanda- bumababa ang sebaceous gland
activity so bumababa rin ang lipid na mag po-protect dun sa water
content of the skin. so hindi masyado na-tatrap ang water and mas
mabilis mag evaporate.

SKIN BIOCHEMISTRY
• Men tend to sweat more and tend to stay longer on skin than
women’s skin is significantly more alkaline than men’s skin

• mas mapag-pawis and Men.

• Sweat provides unfavorable environment for bacteria growth.
• Mas mabilis magkaroon ng Odor ang Men since mas pawisin sila
and mas mabilis mag trampled ang dirt, mas favorable ang bacterial
growth (since this bacterial causes the door production).
• Sweat stays on the skin and affects the pH of the skin.
• Therefore, women’s skin is more alkaline than men’s skin because
skin somehow contributes acidity of the skin.

• However, in terms of Armpit pH- same lang ang pH ng men and

women.

(Average pH = 5.4 vs 4.4, respectively)

UV SENSITIVITY
• male skin appears to be more sensitive to UV radiation whether
acute exposure or exposure for a long time
• increased risk for skin cancer as compared to women.

HYDRATION
Men Women
• Young men show higher SC • SC hydration is stable or
hydration in comparison even increases in women
with women over lifetime.
• Progressively decreases, • Hindi lang water content
beginning at the age of 40 ang important- it works with
the lipid content of the skin
para maging well- hydrated
and mositurize ang skin.

Note: all of the skin type classification would guide and help us in
formulating cosmetic and personal products.

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 5