Windy Days Quilt Umbrella Quilt Grey

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Windy Days Quilt
You can really feel the breeze in this charming quilt, playfully blowing the girl’s hair and
scarf and tossing leaves from the tree. The quilt has just one block, made in three different
colourways, with the blocks separated by sashing. The fabrics are from the Windy Days,
Chambray and Classic Basics collections. The block is a large one, 21in x 25½in (53.3cm x
64.8cm) unfinished, so it would be easy to make it for a matching cushion if you desire.

Materials
• Fabric 1: 1¾yd (1.6m) – Tiny Star grey (130039)
• Fabric 2: 1¾yd (1.6m) – Pen Stripe grey (130033)
• Fabric 3: 1¾yd (1.6m) – Tiny Dots light grey (130048)
• Fabric 4: ½yd (50cm) – Chambray grey (160006)
• Fabric 5: 9in (23cm) square – Chambray coral (160014)
• Fabric 6: 9in (23cm) square – Chambray warm yellow (160015)
• Fabric 7: 9in (23cm) square – Chambray petrol (160005)
• Fabric 8: ⅛yd (15cm) – Wendy blue (100341)
• Fabric 9: ½yd (50cm) – Skyler blue (100342)
• Fabric 10: 9in (23cm) square – Stormy blue (100343)
• Fabric 11: ½yd (50cm) – Breeze blue (100344)
• Fabric 12: 9in (23cm) square – Windy Walk blue (100345)
• Fabric 13: ⅛yd (15cm) – Breeze coral (100346)
• Fabric 14: 9in (23cm) square – Windy Walk camel (100347)
• Fabric 15: ⅛yd (15cm) – Skyler camel (100348)
• Fabric 16: ½yd (50cm) – Stormy coral (100349)
• Fabric 17: ¼yd (25cm) – Wendy camel (100350)
• Fabric 18: ⅛yd (15cm) – Breeze pink (100352)
• Fabric 19: ¼yd (25cm) – Wendy pink (100354)
• Fabric 20: ⅛yd (15cm) – Skyler dusty red (100355)
• Fabric 21: ⅛yd (15cm) – Skyler grey (100356)
• Fabric 22: ⅛yd (15cm) – Wendy teal (100358)
• Fabric 23: ⅛yd (15cm) – Breeze teal (100360)
• Fabric 24: 9in (23cm) square – Aella coral (110029)
• Fabric 25: 9in (23cm) square – Aella blue (110030)
• Fabric 26: ⅛yd (15cm) – Aella camel (110031)
• Fabric 27: ¼yd (25cm) – Aella teal (110032)
• Fabric 28: 14in (35.5cm) square or fat quarter – Aella grey (110034)
• Fabric 29: ⅛yd (15cm) – Aella pink (110035)
• Fabric 30: 14in (35.5cm) square or fat quarter – Solid cappuccino (120007)
• Wadding (batting): 73in x 89in (185.4cm x 226cm)
• Backing fabric: 2yds (1.8m) – Luna blue (150002) (wideback)
• Binding fabric: ⅝yd (60cm) – Chambray cerise (160013)
• Piecing and quilting threads
• Black embroidery cotton (floss) for French knot eyes
• Quilter’s ruler, rotary cutter and mat

Fabric Notes
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Where a long eighth or long quarter of a yard is given in the Materials list you could use a fat
eighth and a fat quarter instead. A fat eighth is assumed to be approximately 10½in x 18in
(26.7cm x 45.7cm) and a fat quarter approximately 21in x 18in (53.3cm x 45.7cm). Note that
the Luna backing fabric is an extra-wide fabric, with a width of 108in (274cm).

Finished Size
65in x 81½in (165cm x 207cm)

General Notes
• Fabric quantities are based on a usable width of 42in (107cm), unless otherwise stated.
• Measurements are in imperial inches with metric conversions in brackets – use only one
system throughout (preferably inches).
• Width measurements are generally given first.
• Press all fabrics before cutting.
• Use ¼in (6mm) seams unless otherwise instructed.
• Read all the instructions through before you start.
• Always make one complete block as a test before going on to make the remaining blocks.

Quilt Layout
1 The quilt uses a single block in three different colourways. The blocks are arranged in three
rows of three blocks, with horizontal sashing strips between the blocks and at the top and
bottom of the quilt, and vertical sashing strips at the sides of the quilt. See Fig A for the
fabrics used and Fig B for the quilt layout. It is wise to make one whole block first, as a test
block, to check your measuring and cutting accuracy.

Fig A Fabric swatches (Windy Days Quilt)

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Fig B Quilt layout (Windy Days Quilt)

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Cutting Out
2 It is best to cut the sashing strips for the whole quilt before cutting all the smaller pieces for
the backgrounds of the blocks.
For the Sashing A strips cut the following pieces (see Fig B for the positions).
• From Fabric 1 − three strips 21in x 2in (53.3cm x 5.1cm).
• From Fabric 2 − three strips 21in x 2in (53.3cm x 5.1cm).
• From Fabric 3 − four strips 21in x 2in (53.3cm x 5.1cm).

3 For the Sashing B strips cut the following pieces.

• From Fabric 1 − two strips 2in x 27in (5.1cm x 68.6cm).
• From Fabric 2 − two strips 2in x 27in (5.1cm x 68.6cm).
• From Fabric 3 − two strips 2in x 27in (5.1cm x 68.6cm).

4 For the Sashing C strips cut the following pieces.

• From Fabric 1 − one strip 22½in x 2in (57.2cm x 5.1cm).
• From Fabric 2 − one strip 22½in x 2in (57.2cm x 5.1cm).

5 The measurements of the cut pieces needed for a single block are given in Fig C, so follow
the measurements carefully as you cut the fabric pieces. Sizes include seam allowances.
There are many small pieces in a block, so you may find it less confusing to cut the fabrics
for one block at a time, rather than for the whole quilt. Fig D shows the positions of the
fabrics for the three colourways of the block. The patterns on Fabric 1 (Tiny Star) and Fabric
3 (Tiny Dots) are not directional, so pieces can be cut in any direction. Fabric 2 (Pen Stripe)
does have a pattern direction (as do some of the print fabrics), so cut these carefully to
maintain the pattern direction.

6 Cut the backing fabric into a piece about 89in wide x 72in high (226cm x 183cm). Rotate
the piece 90 degrees when ready to use it.

7 Cut the binding fabric into eight strips 2½in (6.4cm) x width of fabric. Sew them together
end to end and press seams open. Press in half along the length, wrong sides together.
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Fig C Layout and cutting for a block
Sizes include seam allowances
All pieces to be cut initially as squares or rectangles
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Fig D Block colourways

Numbers identify the fabrics used (see Fig A)
Make 3 of each block
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Making a Block
8 There are three different colourways for the block (Block 1, Block 2 and Block 3), with
each block made three times. Block 1 will be described and illustrated in detail. The block
uses half-square triangle units and corner triangle units in various places to create sharp
corners. These two techniques will be described first, so refer back to them as necessary.

9 Making half-square triangle units: These units are made using a two-at-once method, with
the basic process shown in Fig E. A pair of squares will make two identical half-square
triangle (HST) units. These units are used in the hair (c) and for a leaf unit (d).
Take two different squares and on the wrong side of the lighter square, pencil mark the
diagonal line. Place the two squares right sides (RS) together and sew ¼in (6mm) away from
the marked line on both sides, as shown. Cut the units apart along the marked line and press
the units – the seam is normally pressed towards the darker fabric. Check each unit is the size
it is meant to be – for this quilt the HSTs should be 1½in (3.8cm) (unfinished), so you may
need to trim each unit a little.

Fig E Making half-square triangle units

10 Making corner triangle units: The basic process for this technique is shown in Fig F,
showing two examples – Fig F 1 shows a unit in the girl’s hair (f/e) and Fig F 2 shows an
example of the face, where more than one corner triangle is needed.
Following Fig F 1, take a rectangle piece and place it right side up. Take a background
square and pencil mark a diagonal line on the wrong side. Place the square right sides
together with the rectangle, aligning the edges and with the marked line in the direction
shown in the diagram. Sew along the marked line. Trim off excess fabric ¼in (6mm) past the
sewn line and then press the triangle outwards. Check the unit is the size it is supposed to be.
For units where more than one corner triangle is needed, use the same process but taking
care to use the correct fabrics and sizes, and angling the sewn line in the direction needed.

Fig F Making corner triangle units

11 You could make all of the HST and corner triangle units needed for a block, or make them
as each part of the block is sewn.

Making the Girl’s Head

12 To make the head, follow the stages in Fig G. Start by making the HSTs needed (as
described in Step 9) and then make the sub-units that need corner triangles (as described in
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Step 10). Lay out these sub-units with the other fabric pieces in a rough layout of the head
unit. Now follow Fig G 1 to sew the trailing hair pieces together. Press the seams after each
stage. Sew the other hair units together as in Fig G 2 and then the face unit, as in Fig G 3.
Now sew the units together as in Fig G 4 to complete the head unit. At this stage, this unit
should be 10in wide x 4½in tall (25.4cm x 11.4cm).

Fig G Making the head unit

Making the Girl’s Body

13 To make the body, first make the two half-rectangle triangle units that form the dress.
To make half-rectangle triangle unit d/d, follow Fig H. Start by marking the ¼in (6mm) seam
allowances and dots at the corners, on the right side of the print fabric and the wrong side of
the lighter background fabric (or you can just mark the dots). On the background fabric, mark
a diagonal line from corner to corner of the seam allowance in the direction shown in Fig H 1
(note that the line is through the seam allowance dots, not through the outer corners of the
fabric). Now place the fabrics right sides together, angling the background fabric so the two
dots on the diagonal line match the dots on the fabric beneath (Fig H 2). Pin in place and then
sew along the diagonal line. Trim excess fabric ¼in (6mm) from the sewn line (Fig H 3).
Press the triangle outwards and check the unit is the size shown in Fig H 4.
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Fig H Making a half-rectangle triangle unit for the d/d dress pieces

14 To make the other half-rectangle triangle unit e/e, use the same general process but follow
Fig I. As before, mark the ¼in (6mm) seam allowances and dots at the corners, on the right
side of the print fabric and the wrong side of the lighter background fabric (or just mark the
dots). On the background fabric, mark a diagonal line from corner to corner of the seam
allowance in the direction shown in Fig I 1. Now place the fabrics right sides together,
angling the background fabric so the two dots on the diagonal line match the dots on the
fabric beneath (Fig I 2). Pin in place and then sew along the diagonal line. Trim excess fabric
¼in (6mm) from the sewn line (Fig I 3). Press the triangle outwards and check the unit is the
size shown in Fig I 4.
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Fig I Making a half-rectangle triangle unit for the e/e dress pieces

15 Make the other sub-units needed for the body unit (those with corner triangles). Lay out
all the sub-units in a rough layout of the body unit. Follow the stages in Fig J (1–4) to sew
the units together, pressing seams after each stage. Now sew the units together (Fig J 5). At
this stage, this unit should be 10in wide x 21½in tall (25.4cm x 54.6cm).
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Fig J Making the body unit

Making the Tree

16 Make the sub-units needed for the tree unit – there are seven units that need corner
triangles and one unit that is a half-square triangle (d). Lay out all sub-units in a rough layout
of the tree unit. Follow the stages in Fig K 1 and Fig K 2 to sew the units together, pressing
seams after each stage. Now sew the units together (Fig K 3). At this stage, this unit should
be 11½in wide x 16½in tall (29.2cm x 42cm).
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Fig K Making the tree unit

Making the Dog

17 Make the sub-units needed for the dog unit (those that need corner triangles). Lay out all
of the sub-units in a rough layout of the dog unit. Follow the stages in Fig L 1 and Fig L 2 to
sew the sub-units together, pressing seams after each stage. Now sew the units together (Fig
L 3). At this stage, this unit should be 11½in wide x 9½in tall (29.2cm x 24.1cm).
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Fig L Making the dog unit

Assembling the Block

18 Take the four units you have made – head, body, tree and dog – and lay them out as shown
in Fig M. Sew the units together in two columns, as shown, and press the seam. Now sew the
two columns together and press. Check the block is 21in x 25½in (53.3cm x 64.8cm).
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Fig M Assembling the block

19 Make another two of Block 1 and then use the same processes to make three of Block 2
and three of Block 3. Refer to Fig C for the cut measurements and Fig D for the colourways
and fabric positions. You need nine blocks in total.

Assembling the Quilt

20 When all of the blocks are made, lay them out into three rows, each with three blocks. The
order of each row is different for a random look, so follow Fig N for the layout. Arrange the
Sashing A, B and C strips in the positions shown on the diagram, placing the fabrics in the
correct positions. Referring to Fig N, sew the parts of the quilt together in the following
order.
• Sew a Sashing A strip to the top of each block. Press the seams towards the sashing.
• Sew the Row 1 blocks together, with a Sashing B strip at each end, as shown. Press the
seams in one direction.
• Sew the Row 2 blocks together, with a Sashing B strip at each end, as shown. Press the
seams in the opposite direction to Row 1.
• Sew the Row 3 blocks together, with a Sashing B strip at each end, as shown. Press the
seams in the same direction as Row 1.
• Sew Rows 1, 2 and 3 together, matching seams neatly and then press seams.
• For the bottom of the quilt, sew three sashing strips together (C, A, C) into one long strip.
Sew this to the bottom of the quilt and press the seam towards the sashing.
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Fig N Assembling the quilt

21 To finish the quilt top, embroider the eyes on the girls’ faces, using six strands of black
stranded cotton and working French knots with the yarn wrapped twice around the needle.
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Quilting and Finishing

22 If you are quilting the quilt yourself you now need to make a quilt sandwich – you can do
this in various ways, as follows.
• Use large stitches to tack (baste) a grid through the layers of the quilt in both directions,
with lines about 4in (10cm) apart.
• Use pins or safety pins to fix the layers together.
• Use fabric glue sprayed onto the wadding (batting) to fix the layers together.
If you are sending the quilt off to be commercially long-arm quilted you won’t need to make
a sandwich, as this is done when the quilt is mounted on the machine. When the layers of the
quilt are secured you can quilt as desired.

23 When all quilting is finished, square up the quilt ready for binding.

24 Use the prepared double-fold binding strip to bind your quilt. Sew the binding to the quilt
by pinning the raw edge of the folded binding against the raw edge of the quilt. Don’t start at
a corner. Using a ¼in (6mm) seam, sew the binding in place, starting at least 6in (15.2cm)
away from the end of the binding. Sew to within a ¼in (6mm) of a corner and stop. Take the
quilt off the machine and fold the binding upwards, creating a mitred corner. Hold this in
place, fold the binding back down and pin it in place. Begin sewing the ¼in (6mm) seam
again from the top of the folded binding to within ¼in (6mm) of the next corner and then
repeat the folding process. Do this on all corners. Leave a 6in (15.2cm) ‘tail’ of unsewn
binding at the end.

25 To join the two ends of the binding, open up the beginning and end of the binding tails,
lay them flat and fold the ends back so the two ends touch. Mark these folds by creasing or
with pins – this is where your seam needs to be. Open out the binding and sew the pieces
together at these creases. Trim off excess fabric and press the seam. Re-fold the binding and
finish stitching it in place on the front of the quilt.

26 With the quilt right side up, use a medium-hot iron to press the binding outwards all
round. Now begin to turn the binding over to the back of the quilt, pinning it in place. Use
matching sewing thread and tiny stitches to slipstitch the binding in place all round, creating
neat mitres at each corner. Press the binding and your breezy quilt is finished.