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PRODUCT ANALYSIS AND DEVELOPMENT

SUBMITTED BY:
ANJALI
BFT/19/1079
HARSHITA VERMA
BFT/19/1119
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OBJECTIVE
To identify and analyze fabric trims and their properties, source and price.
METHODOLOGY
Purchase of garment.
Testing of the fabric used in the garment
Analysis of fabrics and trims.
Sourcing of similar fabric and trims as per the testing results obtained.
Testing of the purchased fabric.
Analysis of deviation between the fabrics of the sample garment and the sourced fabric, on the
basis of the test results of the same.
Preparation of measurement chart.
Pattern development.
Test fit in Muslin fabric.
Final garment using the sourced fabric.
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GARMENT DESCRIPTION

FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW BACK VIEW

Color: Blue
Length: Above Knee/Mid-thigh Length
Fabric: Polyester
Trims: buttons and zipper
Pattern: Solid
Ideal For: Women
Type: Skater
Neck: V-Neck
Sleeve: Puff Sleeves
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Introduction
Textile Testing:
Before anything is sold to a customer, manufactures test items to make sure they work as
intended. Whether it's a car, a machine or an item of clothing. Textile testing is no different and
is carried out by clothing companies and their suppliers all over the world, ensuring clothing is
made to the standard and quality desired. Testing is a critical part of textile production and helps
companies develop textiles to the quality and standard they wish.
Textile testing can be defined as "Examining and determining the physical, mechanical and
chemical properties of a textile."
Textile testing is a vital basic tool during the processing of a textile raw material into the product.
It also helps the distributors and consumer to determine the end product’s quality. So, textile
testing refers to the procedures adopted to determine quality throughout the textile product chain.
It can be summarized as the application of engineering facts and science to determine the quality
and properties of a textile product.
Importance of Textile Testing:
Textile testing is extremely important as it ensures quality and can eliminate any problems ahead
of manufacturing. By textile testing we can easily detect the faults of machinery and materials
during test of textiles. Following are the common importance of textile testing:

1. To ensure the product quality

2. To check the quality and suitability of textile raw material
3. To control the manufacturing process
4. To investigate the faulty materials
5. For customer satisfaction and retention
6. Good reputation (brand image) among consumers
7. For research and development
8. For product failure analysis
9. For process development
10. For new product development
11. For product testing
12. For conformity with government regulations and specifications
13. To assess the quality of final product
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Importance of textile testing is undeniable because it importantly supports the personnel involved
in the textile supply chain, from the textile fiber to the end product. Persons involved in textiles
should have knowledge of production as well as statistics. This helps them to interpret data
efficiently.
The testing of textile products aids persons involved in the running of the production line. During
testing, the discrepancy of the product, for example, its strength, maturity, waste percentage (for
fibers), aerial density, and weave design (for fabrics), is properly measured. Thus, the selection
of the proper raw material is an important factor. Standards of control should be maintained to
reduce waste, minimize price, and so on. Faulty machine parts or improper maintenance of the
machines can be easily detected with the help of textile testing. Improved, less costly, and faster
protocols can be developed by researchers with the aid of testing. The efficiency and quality of
the product can also be enhanced with the help of regular and periodic testing. Customer
satisfaction and loyalty can also be won by producing according to customer specification in
good time. In short, testing is an essential pivot to the whole textile product supply chain.
Different Types of Textile Testing Methods:
Fiber test:
1. Identification of fiber
2. Grading
3. Fiber length
4. Strength and elongation; tensile properties
5. Fineness or linear density test
6. Maturity test
7. Trash, neps test etc.
Yarn test:
1. Yarn count or linear density
2. Twist per unit length
3. Strength and elongation i.e. tensile properties
4. Appearance
5. Evenness and regularity
6. Hairiness
Fabric test:
1. Strength and elongation test i.e. tensile properties
2. Width
3. Thickness
4. Number of ends and picks per unit length
5. The count of yarn used
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6. Fabric weight per unit length

7. Design and construction of the cloth
8. Air permeability
9. Thermal properties
10. Stiffness, handle, drape
11. Crease resistance and recovery
12. Abrasion
13. Pilling
14. Shrinkage
15. Water absorbency or resistance etc.
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TESTING AND COMPARISION OF ORIGINAL AND

SOURCED FABRIC.
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TEST - 1
DETERMINATION OF TENSILE STRENGTH OF THE GIVEN FABRIC

AIM:
To measure the tensile strength of the given fabric by using tensile strength tester.

APPARATUS USED
1. Fabric tensile strength tester
2. Fabric swatch
3. Scissor
4. Marking pen
5. Magnifying glass
6. Marking template
7. Needle

SAMPLING
The fabric tensile strength is determined in warp and weft direction separately. 
First of all, the warp and weft direction of the fabric is identified carefully with the help of
magnifying glass.
Now, a number of specimens from warp and weft directions are prepared according to the testing
standard. 5 specimens from each direction are prepared.
In many testings standard procedures, the length of the test specimen is kept 200 mm or 8 inches
and the width of the specimen is kept 50 mm or 2 inches.
1. Test at least five warps way and five weft way test specimens.
2. As far as possible, only one test specimen shall be drawn from a piece in the test sample. In
case the lot size is small, more than one test specimen may be drawn from a piece in the test
sample.

PROCEDURE:
1. First of all, the warp specimens are tested one by one. The specimen is tightened between
fixed and movable gripping jaws carefully.
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2. The specimen length between both gripping jaws is kept 200 mm accurately.
3. Now, the reading of the load cell is observed in relaxed condition.
4. The power supply is switched on now.
5. The movable jaws begin to travel and they apply a stretching force upon the specimen.
6. When the stretching force reaches a certain limit, the specimen gets broken.
7. The breaking load is recorded automatically in the load cell.
8. The breaking force is noted now.
9. The difference between the last reading and initial reading is calculated.  
10. This difference is the tensile strength of the fabric.

CALCULATIONS
1. Calculate the mean breaking load separately for warp way and weft way test
specimens.
2. Calculate the elongation at break separately for warp way and weft way test specimens
and calculate the mean percentage elongation at break as follows:
Formulae
Tensile strength = load at break/ (Original width x original thickness)
% Elongation = (Elongation at rupture / gauge length) x 100

OBSERVATION

s.no Initial reading elongation load

Warp
1 20 cm 31.5 cm 42.5 kg
2 20 cm 32 cm 43.4 kg
3 20 cm 31.8 cm 42.8 kg
4 20 cm 32.1 cm 43.1 kg
5 20 cm 31.6 cm 42.6 kg
Weft
1 20 cm 27.4 cm 12.6 kg
2 20 cm 28.3 cm 13.3 kg
3 20 cm 28 cm 13.1 kg
4 20 cm 27.6 cm 12.8 kg
5 20 cm 28.2 cm 13.3 kg
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TEST - 2
DETERMINATION OF FABRIC CREASE RECOVERY OF THE GIVEN FABRIC
AIM:
To find out the crease recovery of given fabric by the Shirley Crease Recovery tester.

APPARATUS USED
1. Specimen loading device
2. Crease recovery tester
3. Loading plates
4. Stopwatch
5. Scissor
6. Marking pen
7. Fabric swatch
8. Measuring scale.

SAMPLING:
The test specimens are prepared in both directions (warp way and weft way) separately.
10 specimens from each direction are prepared. The specimens are measured with the help of a
measuring scale and then cut with a scissor.
The warp and weft directions are identified carefully with the help of magnifying glass before
preparing the specimens.
The specimen size is kept at 15 mm.  X 40 mm. A technician can also use a marking template to
prepare the test specimens. You can see the below picture also:

PROCEDURE:
The specimen is cut by template and carefully creased by folding in half.
The crease is imparted on fabric by placing it between two glass plates and adding to 500gm
weight on it.
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After 1 min the weight is removed and the creased fabric is clamped on the instrument.
Then it is allowed to recover from the crease. The recovery time may vary to suit particular
creases. Usually, it is 1 min.
When crease recovers the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free edge of the specimen
in line with the knife edge.
The recovery angle is read from the engraved scale.
In this way 10 tests are done in warp way and 10 for weft way.
The mean value of recovery angle is taken and thus crease recovery is measured.

OBSERVATION:

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1 90° 99°
2 95° 99°
3 93° 94.2° 100° 98.2°
4 95° 96°
5 98° 97°

RESULTS:
1. Crease recovery angle in warp way is 94.2°.
2. Crease recovery angle in weft way is 98.2°.
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TEST - 3
DETERMINATION OF STIFFNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRICS

AIM:
To find out the stiffness of given fabric by using stiffness tester.

APPARATUS USED:
1. Stiffness Tester
2. Scissor
3. Scale

SAMPLING:
From the samples cut rectangular warp way and weft way test specimens of 7” * 1” size with the
help of the template.
Specimens cut in each direction shall be scattered as far as possible so that no two warp way
specimens contain the same set of warp yarns and no two weft way specimens contain the same
set of weft yarns.
Avoid selvedge, end portions, creased or folded parts of the specimen. The specimen shall be
handled as little as possible.

PROCEDURE:
1. Place the tester on a table or bench so that horizontal platform and inclined reference line
are at eye level of the operator.
2. Adjust the platform so that it is horizontal.
3. Place one of the specimens on the platform with the scale on top of it lengthwise and the
zero of scale coinciding with the leading edge of the specimen.
4. Start pushing the specimen and the scale slowly and steadily when the leading edge of the
specimen projects beyond the edge of the platform. An increasing part of the specimen
will hang and start bending under its own weight.
5. Keep an eye in such a position that the two inclined line (of the inclined plane making an
angle of 41.50 with the horizontal) of the tester coincide.
6. Stop pushing the specimen when its tip reaches the level of the inclined plane.
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7. Note down the length of the over hanging portion from the scale to the nearest
millimeters.
8. Take four readings from each specimen with each side up, first at one end and at the
other.
9. The weight per unit area can be determined by weighing all the warp way and weft way
test specimens together after completion of stiffness test.

OBSERVATION:

S.no. Bending length

1 3.2 cm
2 3.8
3 3.4
4 3.5
5 3.8
6 3.2
7 4.2
8 4.1
9 3.7
10 3.8
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TEST - 4
DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRIC BY CROCK
METER
AIM:
To find out the rubbing fastness of given fabric by using crock meter.

Apparatus used
1. Crock meter.
2. Fabric.
3. Scissor.
4. Marking pen.
5. Crock test cloth

PROCEDURE:
1 - The white crock test cloth is mounted on the rubbing finger with the help of a clamp.

2 - The test specimen is fixed on the rubbing device by means of an acrylic template such that
the long direction of the specimen follows the track of the devices.
3 - when the multi-colored textile is tested for rubbing fastness, the technician should be careful
about the position of the specimen in such a way that all colors of the design are rubbed in the
test.

4 - If the area of the colour is large, more test specimens should be prepared and individual
colours should be assessed separately.

5 - The covered rubbing finger is lowered onto the test specimen.

6 - The main power supply switch is on position.

7 - 10 turns are set into the timer.

8 - Now the power supply switch of the crock meter is pushed on. The rubbing finger starts to
move to and fro direction.

9 - The machine gets stopped after ten turns automatically.

10 - The white crock test cloth is removed from the finger.

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10 - Now this white crock test cloth is evaluated for staining with the help of a 1 - 5 greyscale
and a rating is given.  An increase in rating indicates better rubbing fastness.

OBSERVATION
Wet rubbing
It is wetted with water
The staining of the rubbing on the Polyester white cloth is checked.
Dry rubbing
The dry specimen is rubbed against the fabric and any color stain occurrence is checked.
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TEST – 5
DETERMINATION GSM OF THE FABRIC
AIM:
To determine the GSM of the fabric.

APPARATUS USED:
GSM cutter
Electric balance

PROCEDURE:
Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch).
Weight the fabric with the electric balance.
The cut sample is 100 sq. cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
The result is the GSM of that particular fabric.
For accuracy test with multiple (e.g. 5 samples) samples and calculate average GSM

OBSERVATION

S.no Readings GSM

1 1.07 107gms
2 1.05 105gms
3 1.09 109gms
4 1.09 109gms
5 1.08 108gms

GSM of the fabric = Average of the observation recorded

= 107.6gms
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TEST – 6
DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRIC BY
LAUNDROMETER

AIM:
To find out the colour fastness of given fabric by using laundrometer.

APPARATUS USED:
Multifibre A (acetate) C (Polyester) N (nylon) P (polyester) A (acrylic) W (wool)
Fabric to be tested
Washing powder

PROCEDURE:
In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are
assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is sandwitched between two
adjacent fabric and stitched, the sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together. Five
different types of washing are specified as different washing methods.
The solution for washing should be prepared to the required temperature of washing. The
liquor material ratio is 50:1. After soaping treatment, remove the specimen, rinse twice in
cold water and then in running cold water under a tap. Squeeze it and air dry at a temperature
not exceeding 60°C.
The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales

OBSERVATION
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TEST-7
DETERMINE THE EPI & PPI OF THE GIVEN FABRIC
AIM:
To find out EPI and PPI of the given Polyester fabric.

APPARATUS REQUIRED:
Traverse thread counter, 2 samples of fabric - 1 in weft ways direction, I warp ways direction,
size -2"x2"

PROCEDURE:
Microscopic observation taken under a specific lighting with the use of template.
We recorded the count of yarns in inch of the weft and warp direction.
We took 10 observations of each direction.

OBSERVATION:

SL.No EPI AVERAGE PPI AVERAGE

1. 136 104
2. 134 110
3. 140 102
4. 140 103
5. 136 137 107 107
6. 138 109
7. 140 106
8. 139 108
9. 138 111
10. 136 110

RESULT
1. EPI of Polyester Fabric - 137
2. PPI of Polyester Fabric – 107
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TEST 8
TO DETERMINE THE TEARING STRENGTH OF THE GIVEN FABRIC
AIM:
To test the tearing strength of the given fabric sample in both warp ways and weft ways
direction.

APPARATUS REQUIRED:
•digi-TESTER 11™
•acrylic template for fabric samples 5 in weft direction and 5 in warp direction.

PROCEDURE:
•Check the level and zero reading and make adjustment if necessary
•Select the capacity of off the machine show that the specimen tears between 20 to 60% of the
scale value
•Raise the pendulum to the starting positions and secure it with the help of the pendulum stopper.
Fix the specimen to the clamps centrally and tighten the clamps by using approximately the same
force on both the clamps.
•The specimen shall lay free within with its upper area directed towards pendulum. Release the
pendulum by pressuring the stopper, after that tearing is completed hold the pendulum on its
return by hand without disturbing the pointer.
•Read the tearing scale to the nearest whole division and calculate the tearing strength using the
following formula-
•tearing strength in grams =standing scale reading /100 * cut of the pendulum
•test all the sample rate down the reading and calculate mean, standard deviation and CV%
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OBSERVATION AND CALCULATION:

Sl.No WEFT AVERAGE WARP AVERAGE

1. 23kgf 24kgf
2. 27kgf 26kgf
3. 28kgf 25kgf 27kgf 25.2kgf
4. 23kgf 25kgf
5. 24kgf 24kgf

RESULT:
The tearing strength of the given fabric sample in weft direction is 25kgf.
The tearing strength of the given fabric sample in warp direction is 25.2kgf.
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Comparison table of different fabric samples with the original fabric.

TEST-1
DETERMINATION OF TENSILE STRENGTH OF THE GIVEN FABRIC

Original Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5

fabric
Warp LOAD
1 42.5 kg
2 43.4 kg
3 42.8 kg
4 43.1 kg
5 42.6 kg
Weft
1 12.6 kg
2 13.3 kg
3 13.1 kg
4 12.8 kg
5 13.3 kg

OBSERVATION:
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TEST-2
DETERMINATION OF FABRIC CREASE RECOVERY OF THE GIVEN FABRIC

ORIGINAL FABRIC

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1 90° 99°
2 95° 99°
3 93° 94.2° 100° 98.2°
4 95° 96°
5 98° 97°

SAMPLE-1

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1
2
3
4
5

SAMPLE-2

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1
2
3
4
5
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SAMPLE-3

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1
2
3
4
5

SAMPLE-4

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1
2
3
4
5

SAMPLE-5

S.n Warp Weft

o
Recovery angle Average Recovery angle Average
1
2
3
4
5

OBSERVATION:
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TEST-3
DETERMINATION OF STIFFNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRICS

S.no. Bending length(IN CM)

ORIGINAL SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE5
FABRIC 1 2 3 4
WARP
1 3.2 cm 4.6 3.2 4.5 3.9
2 3.8 4.8 3.9 4.1 4.1
3 3.4 4.9 3.9 4.4 3.8
4 3.5 4.1 3.8 4.5 4.1
5 3.8 4.2 3.5 4.1 3.9
AVERAGE 3.5 4.5 3.6 4.3 3.9
WEFT
6 3.2 4.9 3.9 4.9 3.5
7 4.2 4.3 4.1 4.7 3.9
8 4.1 4.5 3.8 4.5 3.8
9 3.7 4.6 3.6 4.1 4.1
10 3.8 4.5 4.1 4.5 3.5
AVERAGE 3.8 4.5 3.9 4.4 3.76

OBSERVATION:
By observing the above table we conclude that fabric sample 2 matches the original sample the
most.
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TEST-4
DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRIC BY CROCK
METER
Performing the test on other five sample fabric
Observation: no change on the other 5 samples too .

TEST-5
DETERMINATION GSM OF THE FABRIC

S.no GSM
ORIGINAL SAMPLE SAPMLE SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE
FABRIC 1 2 3 4 5
1 107gms
2 105gms
3 109gms
4 109gms
5 108gms
AVERAGE 107.6 gms

Observation:

TEST-6
DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS OF THE GIVEN FABRIC BY
LAUNDROMETER

OBSERVATION:
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TEST-7
DETERMINE THE EPI & PPI OF THE GIVEN FABRIC

ORIGINAL EPI PPI

FABRIC
EPI PPI S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
1 136 104
2 134 110
3 140 102
4 140 103
5 136 107
6 138 109
7 140 106
8 139 108
9 138 111
10 136 110
AVERAGE 137 107

OBSERVATION:

TEST-8
TO DETERMINE THE TEARING STRENGTH OF THE GIVEN FABRIC

ORIGINAL WARP WEFT

FABRIC
WARP WEFT S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
1 24kgf 23kgf
2 26kgf 27kgf
3 27kgf 28kgf
4 25kgf 23kgf
5 24kgf 24kgf
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6 25.2 kgf 25 kgf

OBSERVATION:
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PATTERN MAKING

COMPONENT NO. CUTTING

Front 2 Face one way
Back 1 Face one way
Sleeve 2 Face one way
Sleeve hem 2 Face one way
Neck binding 2 Face one way
Belt 1 Face one way
Belt loop 2 Face one way
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OPERATION BREAKDOWN

NO. OPERATION MACHINE SEAM

1. Neck binding 4 thread overlock Superimpose
2. Neck binding SNLS Superimpose
attaches to the neck
3. Neck binding SNLS Turn and stitch
topstitch
4. Back neck binding SNLS Superimpose
5. Shoulder attach 4 thread overlock Superimpose
6. Zipper attach SNLS Superimpose
7. Side seam attach SNLS Superimpose
8. Center front attach SNLS Superimpose
9. Sleeve gather SNLS Superimpose
10. Sleeve attach SNLS/4 thread Superimpose
overlock
11. Sleeve hem SNLS Superimpose
12. Belt loop SNLS Superimpose
13. Bottom hem finish SNLS Superimpose
14. Button Manual stich -------
15. Belt finish SNLS Superimpose
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SEAM DIAGRAMS
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Fabric and Trim Card

STYLE: SKATER DRESS

FABRIC SWATCH WASH CARE LABEL/TAGS

ZIPPER PLASTIC BUTTONS

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