Index

63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape & Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . 7

5 Reasons Why We Love Cape Cod: Things to Eat

You Can Really Get Your Licks In. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Dinners You Can Dig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
It’s Deep-Fried Nirvana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
You’ll Never Run Out of Great Places to Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Delicious Dueling French Bakeries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

15 Reasons Why We Love Cape Cod: Things to Do

Catching the Action on a Field of Dreams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Tours That Make a Big Splash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
The Gifts of the Glaciers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Cruising the Dunes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
There’s No Better Place to Dip a Paddle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
A Supremely Snackable Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Hanging at the Drive-in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
A Bike Trail as Beautiful as America’s Song. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Ah, Those Links to Childhood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
It’s Even Prettier from Above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Watching the Catch Come In at the Chatham Fish Pier . . . . . . . . . . 18
Old-School Summer Band Concerts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Outside-the-Box Stores. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Jam-Packed Summer Stages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
There’s Always Something to Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

9 Reasons Why We Love Cape Cod: Things to See

The Pilgrim-Inspired Panorama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
The Artistry of Faith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
 Museums That Put the Odd in Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Science Is Happening! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
The Private Garden That’s an Eden for Everyone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Race Point Beach at Sunset. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Every Day There’s a Boat Parade. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Pirates! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
They’re Happy to School You on Sharks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

13 Reasons Why We Love Cape Cod: Everything Else

You Can Walk on Water. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
The Cape Cod National Seashore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
It Rewards Wandering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
You Can Tell Time Like a Mariner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
It’s Easy to Tune In to the Community . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
The Cape Codder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Who Needs a Groundhog When You Have a Quahog? . . . . . . . . . 29
The Splendid Solitude of the Outer Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
All Dogs Go to Heaven in Provincetown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Feathered Friends Flock Here. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
World-Class Lifeguards. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
The Cape Cod House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
People-Watching in Provincetown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

10 Reasons Why We Love Martha’s Vineyard

The Everything-to-Everyone Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
You Never Know Who You’ll Run Into. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Last Call Never Tasted So Sweet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Serenity Now. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Island Flavors from Island Farms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
We Can’t Tear Ourselves Away from Oak Bluffs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Seafood and Sunsets in Menemsha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
This Beach Makes You Work for It . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Reel Earnings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
 It’s a Beacon for Lighthouse Lovers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

10 Reasons Why We Love Nantucket

The Prettiest Island Walk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
No Lines in the Sand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Big Sails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
The Ultimate Summer Beer Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Nantucket Reds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Local Lore Is a Whale of a Tale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
This Island’s Made for Biking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Dream Weavings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Breakfast We’ll Gladly Get Out of Bed For. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Hot Dates Galore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Cape & Islands Lodging That’s Worth Checking In To

Family-Friendly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Wequassett Resort & Golf Club, Harwich. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Ocean Edge Resort, Brewster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Winnetu, Edgartown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Walk to Everything. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Salt House Inn, Provincetown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
76 Main, Nantucket. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Belfry Inn & Bistro, Sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Worth a Splurge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Chatham Bars Inn, Chatham. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
The Charlotte Inn, Edgartown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Wauwinet, Nantucket. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
On the Water. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Inn on the Sound, Falmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Cliffside Beach Club, Nantucket. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
The Lighthouse Inn, West Dennis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Where to Eat on Cape Cod
Best Cape Cod Beachfront Dining: Chatham Bars Inn . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Best Cape Cod Bakery: Maison Villatte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Best Cape Cod Breakfast Spot: Spoon and Seed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Best Cape Cod Ice Cream Shop: Sundae School. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Best Cape Cod Coffee Shop: Snowy Owl Coffee Roasters. . . . . . . . 56
Best Cape Cod Farm-to-Table Restaurant: The Buffalo Jump. . . . . . . 57
Best Cape Cod Seafood Spot: The Brewster Fish House. . . . . . . . . . 57
Best Cape Cod Upscale Dining: Vers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
 Reading Yankee is like a
New England vacation.
There is magic in Yankee Magazine, and it can all be yours.
• Discover places you never heard of, and rediscover places you only
thought you knew
• Daydream and plan your next day trip or New England vacation
• Savor both traditional and modern mouthwatering New England
cuisine in your own home

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

63 Reasons Why
We Love the Cape & Islands
From whale watching to timeless villages to miles of soft, sandy
beaches, this fabled Massachusetts peninsula and its island
neighbors have it all.

Bass Hole Boardwalk, Yarmouth Port

David Trifiletti

Henry David Thoreau was a bit of a prophet when, after a three-day walk
along the outer Cape in 1849, he predicted, “This place will be a place of
resort for those New Englanders who really wish to visit the seaside.” But
even he would be astonished at how Cape Cod and its islands, Nantucket
and Martha’s Vineyard, have become one of the most recognized destinations
in the nation and around the globe. Every year the Cape and Islands region
draws an estimated six million visitors, most of whom come in the summer
— all the better to soak up the endless outdoor diversions of this oceanside
playground, from boardwalks to beaches to bike paths. There are classic
lighthouses to visit, whales to watch, and holes-in-one to sink at mini golf
courses. There’s handmade ice cream and superlative fried seafood practically
everywhere you look.

Marconi Beach in Wellfleet, part of Cape Cod National Seashore.

Mark Fleming

There are so many reasons to make a summer escape to the Cape and Islands,
in fact, that we filled more than two dozen pages of Yankee’s May/June
issue with a selection of our favorites. Read on to find out what we’ve loved
discovering on our trips to Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket,
which might just inspire you to go out and find even more reasons of your
own.
5 Reasons Why We Love Cape
Cod: Things to Eat
Freshly churned ice cream, fried seafood feasts, delicious dueling
French bakeries, and more. Here are some of our favorite things to
eat on Cape Cod.

You Can Really Get Your Licks In

Choosing a favorite homemade ice cream on Cape Cod is
like choosing a favorite child. That said, here are three to get
you started on finding that superlative summer scoop: Sundae
School Ice Cream in Dennis Port, an old-fashioned parlor
with a marble soda fountain, doles out ginormous portions of
coffee-based Bass River Mud, among other delicacies. At Four
Seas Ice Cream, at Centerville’s Four Corners, family-owned
since 1934, make a beeline for the coconut, mint chip, or fresh
strawberry. And Twin Acres Ice Cream, set in a little oak grove
in Sandwich, dishes up banana boats, hot fudge sundaes, and
scoops of such perennial favorites as blueberry parfait and
pumpkin. Cape Cod ice
cream.
Illustration by
John S. Dykes
Dinners You Can Dig
Grab that clam rake and bucket: Many Cape towns offer both temporary and
seasonal shellfishing licenses, meaning you can treasure-hunt for mussels,
oysters, scallops, and clams. Properly refrigerated, most will keep a few
days—but we bet you won’t want to wait that long.
It’s Deep-Fried Nirvana
Clams, scallops, French fries, onion rings—guilt-free if you’re on vacation,
fried food just tastes better outdoors. You can’t go wrong with a classic
roadside shack like PJ’s in Wellfleet, but if you want to up the ante with a
water view, try the Barnacle by Craigville Beach, Sesuit Harbor Café in
Dennis, or Osterville Fish, Too, overlooking the salt marsh by Barnstable
Harbor.

A fried feast at PJ’s Family Restaurant in Wellfleet.

Mark Fleming

You’ll Never Run Out of Great Places to Eat

From avant-garde farm-to-table dining in Falmouth to chic seaside bistros in
P-town, from clam shacks to artisan ice cream shops, the Cape has a flavor for
every vacation. For a tour of Yankee senior editor Amy Traverso’s favorite food
destinations on the Cape, go here: Amy Traverso’s Cape Cod Dining Guide
 Delicious Dueling
French Bakeries
The Cape Cod food scene
owes a debt to French
pastry—specifically,

Reading Yankee is like a two pâtisseries whose

success heralded a wave

New England vacation.

of next-level dining
here. It all began in
2009 with Wellfleet’s PB
Boulangerie Bistro, where
There is magic in Yankee Magazine, and itPhilippe can allRispoli
be yours.
and
• Discover places you never heard of, and rediscoverBoris
places you only
Villatte first turned
thought you knew out their Paris-perfect
baguettes and croissants.
• Daydream and plan your next day trip or New England vacation
Alas, the partnership
• Savor both traditional and modern mouthwateringsoured,
New England
and Villatte
cuisine in your own home went on to open Maison
Villatte in Falmouth. But
happily, Cape diners now
have two great spots to
choose from.

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

15 Reasons Why We Love Cape
Cod: Things to Do
Small-town band concerts, old-fashioned ballpark thrills, whale-
watching adventures, and more. Here are some of our favorite
things to do on Cape Cod.

Players for the Orleans Firebirds, one of the 10 teams of college stars in the Cape Cod Baseball League.
Alex Gagne

Catching the Action on a Field of Dreams

As twilight descends, the glow of stadium lights marks the fields where teams
from 10 towns play in the Cape Cod Baseball League, the country’s elite
summer league for college players. They are the chosen ones, the best of the
best, each athlete on the cusp of a dream to one day play under the lights
at a major league park. And the drama is real: More than 300 current and
former MLB players spent at least one summer on the Cape, including Hall
of Famers Jeff Bagwell and Carlton Fisk and current Red Sox stars Chris Sale,
Jackie Bradley Jr., and last year’s World Series MVP, Steven Pearce. The games
are free, and you may even end up sitting beside a scout whose judgment
could determine a young man’s future. The players know each game is an
audition, and you are close enough to see the dream play out on their faces.
Best for families: Each team holds youth clinics throughout the summer where
youngsters can begin their own dream.

Tours That Make a Big Splash

Six miles out to sea from Provincetown lies Stellwagen Bank National
Marine Sanctuary, a massive nutrient-rich mesa that offers a smorgasbord for
humpbacks, finbacks, and minkes. From spring to fall you can see these gentle
giants up close on a whale-watch tour departing from Nantucket, Hyannis, or
P-town (home to Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch, which lays claim to being the
originator of East Coast whale watching).

Humpback whales at sunset.

Eric Kulin
The Gifts of the Glaciers
On a map of Cape Cod, blue swatches are everywhere you look. These are
kettle ponds, the legacy of glaciers that scoured the land thousands of years
ago. Clear and mostly shallow, these pleasingly warm respites from ocean
waves are often tucked into woods and require a walk or a bike ride, or even
a paddle, to reach. There are supposedly 365 kettle ponds—Nickerson State
Park alone has eight, while Wellfleet and Truro claim nearly 20—but you need
only discover your favorite. Ask for recommendations at town information
booths, and you’ll soon see a whole new side to Cape Cod.

Kettle ponds inset like gems in the Cape landscape.

Mark Fleming
Cruising the Dunes
What Art Costa launched more than seven decades ago with a 1936 Ford
Woody, son Rob still runs today (albeit with modern SUVs) as the only
company permitted to give driving tours of the Cape Cod National Seashore.
Based in Provincetown, Art’s Dune Tours offers a variety of outings with
guides who are steeped in local history and ecology. Put another way: You’ll
get your Instagram photos, but you’ll also come to appreciate what inspired
Art Costa so many years ago.

There’s No Better Place to Dip a Paddle

Each of Cape Cod’s 15 towns has lovely and diverse places to kayak, but one
spot rises to the top: the protected, calm waters of Pleasant Bay and Nauset
Marsh. From swooping seabirds to vibrant green marsh grasses and endless
barrier beaches, the view changes with each passing hour. (Pay attention to
the tide, though—you don’t want to get caught too far out when it ebbs.) The
experts at Goose Hummock in Orleans are a go-to for navigational advice,
kayak rentals, and instruction. Parking is limited at the town landings in
Orleans and Eastham, but it’s free.

A Supremely Snackable Tour

When backseat munchkins beg for bags of chips, you can give them
something better: a whole factory filled with dancing potato slices. Monday
through Friday year-round, self-guided tours of the Cape Cod Potato Chips
factory in Hyannis demystify the process that transforms potatoes into all-
natural, crunchable delights before they hip-hop along conveyor belts and
into bags. Best of all for families on a budget, tours and samples are free.

Hanging at the Drive-in

Having first flickered to life in 1957, the Wellfleet Drive-in Theatre is a
time capsule, yes, but still very much an essential part of summer. Finding
the right parking spot is an art form, as is the proper beach chair and picnic
setup. People mill around, tossing Frisbees and footballs, and hitting up the
concession stand. Then dusk descends, and a community of strangers comes
together to watch a very big screen against the night sky. Forget streaming
services and multiplexes: The best moviegoing experience on the Cape still
happens at the Wellfleet.

A Bike Trail as Beautiful as America’s Song

A 10.7-mile paved trail from Woods Hole to North Falmouth, the spectacular
Shining Sea Bikeway traverses unspoiled beaches, cranberry bogs, harbors,
marshes, and bird sanctuaries and offers spectacular views of Vineyard
Sound. Named in honor of Falmouth native Katharine Lee Bates, composer of
“America the Beautiful,” the trail evokes the last line of her song: “from sea to
shining sea.” Park at the Falmouth trailhead at Depot Avenue, take a glorious
spur trail from Woods Hole to Sippewissett, and make a tiny detour to Nobska
Light, commanding a perfect picnicking perch.

A family biking moment on the Shining Sea Bikeway near Woods Hole.
Dan Cutrona
Ah, Those Links to Childhood
Looking much the same today as it did in the 1950s or ’60s—or will do,
years into the future—a summer day at a mini golf course is part sport, part
performance art, as players of all ages do battle with kitschy windmills and
lighthouses. Cape Cod is mini golf central, offering over a dozen courses that
differ wildly in theme and scope. But at each, the heart of the game remains:
children clutching little clubs, parents holding scorecards with a stubby pencil
tucked behind an ear. And the magical moment when the ball disappears into
a hole with a single stroke? A giddy joy that never gets old.

Among the Cape’s many mini-golf hot spots: Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf in South Yarmouth.
Mark Fleming

It’s Even Prettier from Above

Take off from the grass runway of Cape Cod Airfield in Marstons Mills aboard
a replica 1930s biplane, or if you prefer, depart from Provincetown Airport
in a renovated original biplane from 1940. Either way, you are in for an
unparalleled perspective on the Cape’s history and landscape—and with
a little luck, you may even spy a whale or two amid the sparkling waves
offshore. Tours range from 15 minutes to half an hour or more. For a special
treat, schedule a sunset ride.
Watching the Catch Come In at the Chatham Fish Pier
Get a front seat to the hustle and bustle of the small-boat fishing industry—
not to mention a sweeping harbor view—as the daily catch is unloaded at
the Chatham Fish Pier. Seasoned fishermen called “pier hosts” are usually
stationed at the observation deck, ready to chat with visitors, between 10 a.m.
and 1 p.m. Fridays through Mondays. And talk about local flavor: Right next
door is the Chatham Fish Pier Market, which serves some of the best chowder
we’ve ever tasted.

Old-School Summer Band Concerts

It’s all about claiming a prime spot for Friday night concerts by the Chatham
Band. At 5:15—nearly three hours before the music starts—we set our chairs
on the rim of the grassy bowl in Kate Gould Park. Below us is a crazy quilt
of beach blankets around a traditional white bandstand. Nobody’s here,
because after you anchor your blanket or unfold your chairs, you’re all set till
showtime. Time to grab dinner on Main Street.

Two hours later, the park is packed with families, and new arrivals are
claiming their spaces on the far hillside. We see youngsters fencing with light
sabers, and girls turning cartwheels on a strip of unblanketed grass. We see
teenagers—yes, teenagers—unpacking their coolers, taking selfies, and eating
to-go burgers and fries.

On town commons across New England, summer band concerts were once
the ultimate in unplugged entertainment. On Cape Cod, they still are. If the
weather holds, you can see six town bands—Harwich, Barnstable, Sandwich,
Brewster, Chatham, and Falmouth—in just eight days. You’ll hear marches,
Broadway showstoppers, pop tunes, classical hits, and big band spectaculars.
All outdoors, accompanied by the setting sun, under the gaze of gliding
great gulls. Many musicians, all volunteers, play in more than one band, and
within each ensemble you’ll find musical families: couples, kids, parents,
grandparents.
In Chatham, the crowds have been coming since the summer of 1932 (with a
few years off, when many band members were serving in WWII). While most
summer bands tend toward khakis and polo shirts, the Chatham Band dresses
up in spiffy blue and gold peaked caps and crisp red jackets—a tribute to
the Red Men’s Hall, where they were granted free rehearsal space in the late
1930s.

This most venerable of summer bands opens with its own theme song: “It’s
Band Time in Chatham.” Conductor Tom Jahnke, sporting a deep blue jacket
festooned with gold buttons—an homage to John Philip Sousa—strikes up the
band. Some of the regulars sing along. There must be a thousand of us here,
and there’s an electric energy in the air. When it’s time for the first march-
around, a few hundred concertgoers join the parade. (A march-around is
exactly what it sounds like: Holding the hands of any affiliated children, you
high-step it around the bandstand.) Tonight, and every Friday, we can count
on two march-arounds, two dance-arounds, and a bunny hop. The program
changes weekly—everything from Mary Poppins to Bruno Mars. But wait,
here’s a remarkable debut: “My Shot” from Hamilton, featuring rapper J.P.
Sousa, aka Tom Jahnke.

The Chatham Band closes every concert with “The Star-Spangled Banner.”
But just before the patriotic finale, Jahnke thanks everyone for coming. “That
feeling you are feeling now is Chatham Band love,” he says, suggesting we
hold on to it all week. Will it last that long? I’m not sure. But rising for the
national anthem, I know this: To feel the love, you have to show up early. —
Kate Whouley

Outside-the-Box Stores
• Atlantic Spice Company, North Truro: Discover a literal world of herbs and
spices (more than 250 in all, from Egyptian chamomile to Greek oregano)
at who lesale prices. atlanticspice.com
• Bird Watcher’s General Store, Orleans: One of the first-ever birding
specialty stores (c. 1983), this place has gear, gifts, guidance—and a great
 sense of humor.
• Cape Cod Beach Chair Company, Harwich: Outside: a selfie-ready 10-foot-
tall beach chair. Inside: scaled-down but equally impressive handcrafted
wood-framed seaside seating.
• Marine Specialties, Provincetown: This vast space isn’t so much stocked
as encrusted with eclectic wares that span decades: military surplus, world
flags, dishes, flip-flops…. Allow plenty of time to take it all in.
• Dr. Gravity’s Kite Shop, Harwich Port: Here’s your one-stop not only for
every kind of kite—sport, parafoil, box, delta, diamond—but also for beach
supplies and toys. (Plus: candy!)

Jam-Packed Summer Stages

From the birthplace of modern American theater (the Provincetown
Playhouse), to the storied stage where Henry Fonda and Bette Davis first
honed their acting chops (the Cape Playhouse in Dennis), to the nation’s only
continuously operated theaters in the round (the Cape Cod Melody Tent in
Hyannis and the South Shore Music Circus in Cohasset), the Cape’s wealth of
venues are just the ticket for visiting culture vultures.

There’s Always Something to Do

From the pounding drums of the Mashpee Wampanoag Powwow (July 5–7)
to the pounding feet of the Falmouth Road Race (August 18), from the floral
delights of the Cape Cod Hydrangea Festival (July 12–21) to the aural delights
of Pops by the Sea (August 11), the Cape summer is chock-full of can’t-miss
events. See our full list of 2019 calendar highlights: Top Summer Events on
Cape Cod
9 Reasons Why We Love Cape
Cod: Things to See
Pirate’s booty, towering views, gee-whiz science centers,
unbeatable sunsets, and more. Here are some of our favorite things
to see on Cape Cod.

A bird’s-eye view of Provincetown’s Pilgrim Monument, the tallest granite structure in the U.S.
Mark Fleming

The Pilgrim-Inspired Panorama

Traversing 60 ramps and 116 steps may sound daunting, but summiting
Provincetown’s Pilgrim Monument takes only about 10 minutes at a leisurely
pace (longer, if you pause to examine the many interior stones inscribed with
the names of U.S. cities that donated them). At the top of the 252-foot tribute
to the Pilgrims’ first landing in the New World, in Provincetown, you’ll be
rewarded with a vista that on clear days stretches all the way to Boston.
The Artistry of Faith
With so much natural wonder to be found on Cape Cod, it may come as
a surprise to walk into the Church of the Transfiguration in Orleans and

Byzantine-style mosaics fill the Church of the Transfiguration in Orleans.

Robert Benson
be almost overcome by the richness of what human hands have made: the
mosaic floor, the painted frescoes. And when you attend an organ concert
here, the church’s unique surround sound will create a memory that will stay
with you forever.

Museums That Put the Odd in Cape Cod

Though generally not known for the outlandish, the Cape does have a few
worthy oddities among its attractions. The Cahoon Museum of American
Art, a seemingly run-of-the-mill farmhouse in Cotuit, is filled with whimsical
paintings by the late neoprimitive artists Martha and Ralph Cahoon (think:
mermaids on a Ferris wheel). Yarmouth Port’s Edward Gorey House, where the
famed artist with the Gothic sense of humor lived until he died in 2000, bursts
at the seams with his quirky illustrations. And last but not least, the Susan
Baker Memorial Museum in North Truro is the entertaining creation of a noted
local humorist-painter who decided not to wait until her death for a museum
of her own.

Science Is Happening!
Although Woods Hole boasts one of the nation’s most photographed
lighthouses (Nobska), its true wonder is the scores of scientists who come
here to further our understanding of the ocean and the life it holds. Their
work at such places as the Marine Biological Laboratory and the Woods Hole
Oceanographic Institution will help the world make crucial decisions about
climate change. Guided tours give a glimpse of the men and women engaged
in research that has never been so important.

The Private Garden That’s an Eden for Everyone

Worthy gardens dot the Cape, including the granddaddy 100-acre Heritage
Museums & Gardens in Sandwich, but Spohr Gardens in Woods Hole is
an unparalleled waterfront oasis that feels like a hidden treasure. Thanks to
benefactors Charles and Margaret Spohr, this spectacular six-acre private
garden is yours to wander, free. More than 100,000 daffodils bloom in spring,
followed by lilies, azaleas, magnolias, and hydrangeas. Heading down to the
iris garden by the water, you’ll share the
wide paths with geese and ducks.

Race Point Beach at Sunset

There’s an unmatched quality to
the light in the Cape and Islands,
a special glow where sea meets
the sky. But when daylight
recedes, the real drama
begins. Before sunset
at Race Point Beach in
Provincetown, people arrive
with blankets, and those with
permits stoke bonfires. As the
sun sinks into the sea, the sky
flames red and orange; on the
beach, embers leap skyward.
Soon darkness settles in. The sky
fills with stars. A perfect summer
day comes to an end.

Thanks to its location on the northwestern tip of the Cape, Race Point offers a front-row seat to sunset vistas.
Mark Fleming
Every Day There’s a Boat Parade
Hanging by the canal, checking out marine traffic? Yup. It’s a thing. On an
average summer day, between 200 and 300 boats will pass through the Cape
Cod Canal—from a 20-foot skiff to a cargo carrier. You’ll see tugboats, barges,
fishing vessels, and pleasure yachts. Cruise ships, too. They usually pass
through at night, when they’re all lit up. The paved pathways that run along
both sides of the canal are wheelchair-, stroller-, bicycle-, and pedestrian-
friendly.

Pirates!
Wrecked off Cape Cod in 1717 while carrying treasure from 50 plundered
ships, the Whydah Gally was discovered in 1984 by underwater adventurer
and Provincetown resident Barry Clifford. And at the Whydah Pirate Museum
in West Yarmouth, you can see the booty! Coins, cannons, handmade
weapons, and even a leg bone are part of a fascinating collection drawn from
the more than 200,000 artifacts Clifford and his team have recovered. And
if you’re really into the undersea-adventure angle, check out the Expedition
Whydah Sea Lab and Learning Center in P-town, which serves as the
headquarters for the ongoing exploration.

They’re Happy to School You on Sharks

As the only site in the North Atlantic where great white sharks reliably gather,
Cape Cod has long known the importance of understanding these fearsome
and fascinating summer visitors. A leader in separating fact from fiction is the
Atlantic White Shark Conservancy, which not only conducts research but also
works for public safety and education. Stop in at its Chatham Shark Center
to take a virtual-reality swim with sharks, snap a selfie in a diving cage, and
support the conservancy’s mission with a one-of-a-kind souvenir from its gift
shop. (Our pick? The drink cozy that reads “You’re Going to Need a Bigger
Beer.”)
13 Reasons Why We Love Cape
Cod: Everything Else
World-class lifeguards, a classic summer cocktail, people-watching
in P-town, a talking clam, and more. Here are even more reasons
why we love Cape Cod.

Bass Hole Boardwalk, Yarmouth Port

David Trifiletti

You Can Walk on Water

The many boardwalks across the Cape protect the fragile wetland places—
the shallows, salt marshes, and bogs. And taking a stroll on one can feel
miraculous: the teeming ecosystem beneath your feet, the shorebirds preening
nearby, the wide-open view…
The Cape Cod National Seashore
Created on August 7, 1961, with JFK’s presidential pen stroke, this 43,600-acre
national park gave everyone access to one of the most treasured stretches of
coastline in the East—and in doing so, helped save it. Read the whole story
here.

It Rewards Wandering
Puzzling out directions on Cape Cod isn’t easy: To go “down Cape,” you travel
north toward Provincetown; to go “up Cape,” you head south and west toward
Bourne and Falmouth. So keep a map handy, but be open to serendipity. The
Cape’s 400 square miles are packed with summer hot spots—some of which
you might discover only by letting yourself get lost.

Cape Cod rewards wandering.

Illustration by John S. Dykes
You Can Tell Time Like a Mariner
The clock at the First Congregational Church in Wellfleet is the only town
clock in the world that strikes ship’s time. Listen for the chimes every 30
minutes: twice at the top of the hour, once at the half hour.

It’s Easy to Tune In to the Community

Home to such local-interest programs as Fishing News and The Weekly
Bird Report, award-winning public radio station WCAI gets hyperlocal with
the supershort audio clips it sprinkles throughout the day. With titles like
“Scalloper,” “Bakesale,” and “Dogs and Boats,” these so-called sonic IDs
typically feature someone talking about a uniquely local phenomenon—or as
WCAI puts it, “little fragments of life as lived by our neighbors.”

The Cape Codder

In the beginning there was the Rangoon
Ruby, which begat the Bog Fog. Never mind
that they were precisely the same: vodka,
cranberry, squeeze of lime. Cocktails are
fickle like that—they exist for a time, and then
someone anoints them with a new name.

So, sometime in the 1960s, the drink got yet another

name: the Cape Codder. This was in part due to
savvy marketing by Ocean Spray, which was looking
to encourage cranberry consumption on days that
didn’t begin with “thanks” and end with “giving.”

But it was also a drink for the times. Vodka was

ascendant, and the Cape Codder was a simple and
tasty way to mix it. It became a hallowed standard of
bars everywhere—especially on Cape Cod, possibly
The Cape Codder because the drink was as elemental as the Cape,
Adam DeTour
which itself has three key ingredients: sand, sky,
and sea.
 The Ocean Spray website features a Cape Codder recipe that specifies five
minutes’ prep time. Can it really take that long to mix three things? Is this a
typo? No. It’s just proof that in summer, near the beach, with drink in hand,
time slows down. —Wayne Curtis

Reading Yankee is like a

Who Needs a Groundhog When You Have a Quahog?

New England vacation.

Beginning in 2009, Doug the Quahog has emerged from his figurative shell
on the first day of summer to predict how many beach days the Cape will
have that year. This year the crusty little
soothsayer—who speaks in secret clam
There is magic
language in Yankee
to his trusted human Magazine,
interpreter, and it can all be yours.
• Discover
the pirate places
Johnnyyou never hearddeliver
Quahog—will of, and rediscover places you only
his forecast
thought youJune
knew 21 at the Sea Crest
Beach Hotel in North Falmouth (though
• Daydream
of course he’sand plan
also onyour next day
Facebook, trip or New England vacation
Twitter,
• Savor both traditional and modern mouthwatering New England
and Instagram).
cuisine in your own home

Doug the Quahog

Illustration by John S. Dykes

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

A Cape Cod dune shack.
Julie Tremblay

The Splendid Solitude of the Outer Beach

The old dune shack rose out of the sand as though it had been waiting for
me. Maybe it had. For nearly an hour I’d hiked under an intense July sun,
through the sandy landscape in a southern section of the Province Lands—a
barren, beautiful 3,000-acre piece of the Cape Cod National Seashore in
Provincetown. I traipsed around scrubby trees and wavy clumps of dune grass,
wandered up and down hills of sand, all in an effort to make it to the sea.
Along the way I didn’t see another soul.

For the past two days I’d navigated traffic and tourists, but there was another
Cape, a longtime Eastham resident told me—one you could find if you were
willing to trek off the busy path. An empty beach, an endless expanse of sand
and weather-beaten shacks. You just had to look for it.

I arrived at the Snail Road access trail off Route 6 in Provincetown and began
walking. I galloped up one dune to find an expansive natural landscape
that seemed a galaxy away from the Cape’s crowds but in reality was only a
fewmiles from souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants.

A full afternoon sun was right on top of me as I strolled along a rough trail,
a ribbon of sand that eventually crossed a narrow dune-buggy road. I made
 my way up a small hill, and there it was, the dune shack I’d fixed my eyes on,
nestled into the earth as though it had fully accepted its fate: that one day it
would be consumed by the sands. A mix of vegetation—mostly shrubs and
unwieldy patches of dune grass—framed the building, whose worn cedar
shingles gave it an inviting appearance. A rusted lock kept the old door shut.

Reading Yankee is like a

A good 20 yards in front of the shack were a table and two chairs, positioned
perfectly to take in the view: a wide strip of sand and a softly rolling Atlantic.

New England vacation.

Not a single other person was in sight. I took a seat and settled into this
moment, when it felt as though I had one of New England’s prized summer
destinations all to myself. —Ian Aldrich
There is magic in Yankee Magazine, and it can all be yours.
• Discover places you never heard of, and rediscover places you only
All Dogs Go to Heaven in Provincetown
thought you knew
Three reasons P-town is one of the nation’s
• Daydream and plan
most dog-friendly your1)next
towns: Dogsday
cantrip
go or New England vacation
• Savor both
off-leash on traditional andmornings
town beaches modern and
mouthwatering New England
eveningsinthrough
cuisine your ownthehome
summer and fall,
then all day long in the off-season. 2) The
Pilgrim Bark Park invites dog play amid a
backdrop of locally created sculptures. 3)
July 2020 sees the return of the popular
Paw Palooza festival, which includes
a “radar run” to answer your burning
question: Just how fast does my dog run
All dogs go to heaven in Provincetown.
when chasing a tennis ball? Illustration by John S. Dykes

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

Feathered Friends Flock Here
On the Cape, spring is signaled not by robins but by ospreys, whose arrival
is doubly welcome: After declining to a single pair here in the ’70s, these sea
hawks have become a big conservation success story, with about 350 nesting
pairs expected this year. They’re among some 400 bird species you can spot
on the Cape or just offshore, where pelagic birds such as shearwaters and
storm-petrels are a whale-watching cruise bonus.

World-Class Lifeguards
Not all Cape waters are smooth waters. Some of the most powerful surf on the
East Coast can be found on the Outer Cape’s east-facing beaches. But know
this: When you’re riding the waves along the Cape Cod National Seashore,
you’re being watched over by an elite crew of lifeguards whose basic training
is supplemented by 30 hours of preseason training and sharpened by daily
workouts throughout the summer. Plus, many National Seashore lifeguards
have years or even decades of experience. You may never need these pros, but
in this unforgiving part of the Atlantic, you’ll be glad they’re here if you do.

Cape Cod is home to world-class lifeguards.

Mark Fleming
The Cape Cod House
When a kid draws a house, what emerges will likely look a lot like the simple,
sturdy dwelling known as a Cape Cod. Visit the Cape today, and you can see
17th-century originals and marvel at how they still fit seamlessly into the
landscape. “[Capes] are as unpretentious as they are livable,” observed famed
Boston architect Royal Barry Wills. “Carping critics may poke fun at their
rambler roses, picket fences, and stately elms, but such things spell home to
most of us.”

People-Watching in Provincetown
I am a person who forgets things—names, the dates of essential historical
events, where I was two Christmases ago. I blame this partly on genetics (my
dad is famously forgetful) and partly on the drugs I experimented with in
college, some of which I remember.

But I haven’t forgotten the first time I visited Provincetown. I was a 27-year-
old Californian who had recently relocated to Boston, a city I found beautiful
but not as interesting as San Francisco, the once-quirky place where I grew
up. A few months into my new New England life, I was told by gays, writers,
and an opinioned grandmother from South Boston that I must visit a place
called P-town, at the tip of a place called Cape Cod. Norman Mailer also
recommended it. “There could be no other town like it,” he wrote.

I arrived by boat in July (as one does), and after a short walk along a pier I
found myself on Commercial Street, the town’s main drag, where a seemingly
unusual but actually quite common P-town summer scene played out before
me. There was John Waters on a bicycle. There was a drag queen with terrific
posture laughing about something with a family from Ohio. There was a tank
top–wearing young man on a moped stopping (too abruptly!) to flirt with tank
top–wearing young men on a balcony. There were townies just trying to get to
the post office. There was a middle-aged lesbian couple talking to their dog.
There was an older man (in his 50s) and a younger man (in his 20s) walking
together and smiling, and I couldn’t be sure if they were lovers or father and
son. There was a large man in a harness carrying a small man in a Speedo.
There was a street performer playing the piano. There were teenagers from
the suburbs, grown men from Dallas, a shirtless Jamaican on a skateboard, a
Don’t miss the people-watching in Provincetown.
Illustration by Nigel Buchanan
 painter lugging his supplies, an activist shouting to be heard, and a handsome
man who seemed like trouble. (I would come to learn that my instincts were
correct: He was running away from many things, including quite possibly the
authorities. People come to P-town to lose themselves and to find themselves.)

Reading Yankee is like a

I fell in love with Provincetown immediately, and I have spent part or all of
every summer there since. I have also braved the town in February, when

New England vacation.

it feels so desolate that even the proudest introverts sometimes wander the
streets in search of a party that isn’t happening. P-town is addictive; it bear-
hugs you and dares you to try summer somewhere else. It has many appeals,
There is magic
of course, in Yankee
but I spend Magazine,
a good portion of each and it can
day there all bepeople.
watching yours.
Partly this is because I’m a writer who fancies himself a sociologist, and partly
• Discover places you never heard of, and rediscover places you only
this is because I’m a gay man who fancies handsome men.
thought you knew
• Daydream and plan your next day trip or New England vacation
But mostly
• Savor bothit’s because Iand
traditional have found no
modern better place toNew
mouthwatering people-watch
England in New
England. Though P-town has changed some in the past decade (like so many
cuisine in your own home
unconventional places, it’s been altered by conventional people with money),
it remains a magical summer escape, a summer camp for seemingly disparate
adults who gather each season, like clockwork, in the greatest beach town on
earth. —Benoit Denizet-Lewis

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

10 Reasons Why We Love
Martha’s Vineyard
Local farms, storied lighthouses, fairy-tale cottages, famous faces,
and more. Here are 10 of our favorite reasons to love the bustling
island of Martha’s Vineyard.

The Everything-to-Everyone Store

Since opening its doors in 1858, Alley’s General Store in West Tisbury has
been the central meeting point for natives, tourists, and wash-ashores who
need a gallon of milk, penny candy, pet shampoo, the latest Vineyard souvenir
T-shirt, or a large coffee and some valuable porch time in one of the store’s
rockers.

You Never Know Who You’ll Run Into

Unlike the busy party circuit of that other East Coast summer getaway for
A-listers, the Hamptons, Martha’s Vineyard gives celebrities a break from
velvet ropes and flashing cameras. Aside from the occasional splashy event—
island regular Spike Lee previewed BlacKkKlansman at the Strand Theatre last
year, for instance—the stars who come here mostly embrace the laid-back
roles of small-town residents. (Of course, the Secret Service detail is a dead
giveaway for the most famous visitors of recent years, the Obamas.) A sampler
of some of the famous folks going about their days here: Meg Ryan at the dog
show at the Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society Fair … Bill Murray having
lunch in the parking lot at the Menemsha town beach … Mary Steenburgen
and Ted Danson at the Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse … Larry David at 7a
Foods in West Tisbury (where he’s been known to order the Liz Lemon
sandwich) … David McCullough at the West Tisbury Free Public Library …
Peter Farrelly at Offshore Ale Co. in Oak Bluffs … Skip Gates pedaling his
three-wheeled bike on the path along Beach Road … Seth Meyers on the
porch at the Chilmark General Store … Caroline Kennedy and Carly Simon at
the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market.
Celebrity-spotting on Martha’s Vineyard.
Illustration by John S. Dykes
Last Call Never Tasted So Sweet
For more than three decades, candy lovers have journeyed to Chilmark
Chocolates like pilgrims to the Holy Land. Only the shop’s offbeat hours
(closed in August?) could leave them disappointed. But if you want a taste
of this tradition, act now: At the end of this year the beloved up-island
confectionary will close for good, making its Vineyard-inspired handmade
treats—like Chappy Chewies, Squibnuggets, and Tashmoo Truffles—nothing
but sweet memories.

Serenity Now
You can count on the typical Martha’s Vineyard garden—pink roses, blue
hydrangeas, white picket fences—to delight the eye. To feed the soul, though,
spend an afternoon in the very untypical garden of Mytoi, a Japanese-style
gem on Chappaquiddick. Nearly destroyed by a 1991 hurricane, this 14-
acre landscape of intimate gardens, winding paths, and hidden nooks was
rejuvenated by the Trustees of Reservations (which also owns the nearby Cape
Poge Wildlife Refuge and the nature reserve Wasque, two oases in their own
right).

Island Flavors from Island Farms

For an island with such coveted real estate, the Vineyard retains an impressive
cache of agricultural land, thanks to forward-thinking groups like the
Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank. There are about three dozen produce farms,
cheese makers, a mushroom farm, and even pastured cattle. Find a range
of homegrown treasures at such places as the superlative farm stand at
Edgartown’s Morning Glory Farm, the small but mighty Larder in Vineyard
Haven, and the must-visit West Tisbury Farmers’ Market. Or stop by any
number of self-serve farm stands, like the Grey Barn and Farm, an award-
winning cheese operation in Chilmark, or West Tisbury’s Blackwater Farm,
where kids can pet the animals.
We Can’t Tear Ourselves Away from Oak Bluffs
From beaches and boutiques to historic houses and a classic carousel, the
town of Oak Bluffs has an almost ridiculously long list of things to keep
visitors occupied. Just steps from the ferry is Inkwell Beach, perfect for those
looking to jump right into a day of sunbathing; beach ramblers, meanwhile,
can head down the road to the two-mile-long Joseph Sylvia State Beach.
At the foot of the main thoroughfare, Circuit Avenue, is the oldest platform

Making the rounds on Oak Bluffs’ Flying Horses Carousel.

Elizabeth Cecil

carousel in America, the Flying Horses Carousel (kids will delight in the
chance to grab at an honest-to-goodness brass ring). After browsing the shops
lining the avenue—and maybe indulging in a scoop of Mad Martha’s ice
cream—it’s off to the Oak Bluffs Campground, a neighborhood of wee 19th-
century cottages painted in all colors of the rainbow. Lush greenery and the
shade of a gazebo await at Ocean Park, an ideal spot for a walk, a game of
Frisbee, or a picnic lunch. And for those who inevitably while away the entire
day in Oak Bluffs, the delicious aroma of gourmet pastries will lead the way to
Back Door Donuts, a landmark bakery whose “back door” opens from 7 p.m.
to 1 a.m.
Vessels from the local fishing fleet in Menemsha Harbor.
Lori Pedrick

Seafood and Sunsets in Menemsha

Generations of local fishermen have peddled their briny wares on the docks
of this village, which remains seafood central on the Vineyard. From the
landmark fish markets Larsen’s and Menemsha, the classic shack Menemsha
Galley, or the Home Port Back Door, you can procure a takeout banquet of
steamers, fried clams, lobsters, and more—a bounty that is best enjoyed right
on the beach, before one of the grandest sunset views on the East Coast.

This Beach Makes You Work for It

A narrow, bumpy dirt road is the only way in or out, and parking is scarce.
Who cares? You were smart enough to walk or bike the mile from Vineyard
Haven to Lake Tashmoo Town Beach, which borders both a 270-acre coastal
pond and the ocean. It’s great for swimming, sunbathing, surf-casting … but
not for multitudes.
 Reel Earnings
Yes, the Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby draws anglers from
all around the world in September. But bluefish start running in May, and you
can catch a good striper during most of the summer. You could try asking a
local for the best place to catch a fish, but they probably won’t tell you—so

Reading Yankee is like a

just know that with 100-plus miles of shoreline to choose from, casting from
nearly any spot is a good bet.

New England vacation.

It’s a Beacon for Lighthouse Lovers
Martha’s Vineyard has more lighthouses (five), in more diverse styles, in
There
close is magicthan
proximity in Yankee
anywhereMagazine, and it
else in the country. can
And for all
goodbereason:
yours.The
• Discover
island hasplaces you known
long been never heard of, and rediscover
for treacherous places
tides, rocky yousandy
shores, only shoals,
and the underwater
thought you knew reefs dubbed the Devil’s Bridge, off Aquinnah, where
the steamship City of Columbus was wrecked in January 1884. Vineyard
• Daydream and plan your next day trip or New England vacation
lighthouses stretch from sunrise (Cape Poge, on Chappaquiddick’s northeast
• Savor
point) both traditional
to sunset andon
(Gay Head modern mouthwatering
the southwest), and youNew
can England
visit all but one
cuisine in your
(West Chop). own homefact: There’s actually a sixth lighthouse, in a manner
Little-known
of speaking. The original 1854 Fresnel lens used in Gay Head Light is now
at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum’s new home in Vineyard Haven, where it
stands sentinel—in spirit, anyway—over Lagoon Pond.

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

10 Reasons Why We Love
Nantucket
Seaside bike paths, whaling lore, a stunning island stroll, and
more. Here are 10 of our favorite reasons to love the charming
island of Nantucket.

Storybook cottages crowd close to the ’Sconsett Bluff Walk.

Jillian Eversole/Rhyme & Reason
The Prettiest Island Walk
Beginning in the picturesque fishing village of Siasconset and ending at the
Sankaty Head Light, the mile-long ‘Sconset Bluff Walk offers up different
identities. Here, you’re on a narrow village road. Next, you’re cutting through
scrubby forest. Now, you’re strolling across the manicured backyards of tony
seaside estates. There are beach roses and birds, hydrangeas, and, of course,
stunning views of an endless Atlantic.

No Lines in the Sand

In a welcome contrast to most of New England’s ocean communities, virtually
all of Nantucket’s 110-mile coastline is free and open to the public—including
80 miles of some of the world’s most beautiful beaches.

Big Sails
Of all the celebrities summering on Nantucket, none are as welcoming to
paparazzi as the tall ship Lynx, a handsome replica of a topsail schooner that
sailed as a privateer during the War of 1812. Snap a photo as it glides through
Nantucket Harbor in July and August—or better yet, climb aboard for a trip
back into maritime history.

The Ultimate Summer Beer Garden

There’s a party every day at Cisco Brewers, located in the small agricultural
“heartland” southwest of town. Starting at 11 a.m. (noon on Sunday), visitors
can grab a seat in the breezy courtyard, enjoy house-made beer, wine, or
spirits, and find a nosh among a rotating lineup of food trucks (we love Raw
Bar Yoho’s oysters and bluefish pâté). Live music starts at 3, then the whole
thing wraps up … until the next day.
Nantucket Reds from Murray’s Toggery Shop.
Heath Robbins

Nantucket Reds
You can be on a dude ranch in Wyoming and step out in your favorite faded
red-to-pink trousers, and immediately everyone knows where you’ve been—
and a little something about who you are. The island’s signature clothing line
began in the 1960s not long after Philip C. Murray took over his father’s Main
Street clothing shop. Today, Murray’s Toggery Shop remains the only place
on the world that’s legally allowed to claim it sells authentic Nantucket Reds
attire.
Local Lore Is a Whale of a Tale
For the better part of a century, Nantucket was the world’s whaling capital. The
dangerous but lucrative industry made it one of the wealthiest communities
in America and left every captain’s house, lighthouse, and harbor with a tale
worth telling. Learn even a few of them at the Nantucket History Association’s
Whaling Museum, and your sense of the island will be transformed.

A peek inside the Nantucket Whaling Museum.

Nantucket Historical Association

This Island’s Made for Biking

On Nantucket, cycling routes fan out from downtown in every direction. To
Madaket. To Surfside Beach. To Wauwinet. Of the 30-odd miles of paved paths
here, the longest (and arguably most scenic) is an 18-mile round-trip that
begins downtown and heads east, parallel to Polpis Road, to the sea. Bring
your bike or rent from a number of local outfitters—most notably Young’s
Bicycle Shop, overseen by third-generation owner Harvey Young just steps
from the ferry landing.
Dream Weavings
Want a souvenir that skews a bit more heirloom than an “ACK” sticker?
Nantucket’s signature lightship baskets, first made by crews on the island’s
19th-century floating beacons, are still available today from local artisans (a
good place to start: Four Winds Craft Guild). Another only-on-Nantucket find:
ultrafine throws and blankets handwoven at Nantucket Looms since 1968.

Breakfast We’ll Gladly Get Out of Bed For

Given the homemade doughnuts at the Downyflake, comfort-food classics at
Black-Eyed Susan’s, and budget bites at the old-school Nantucket Pharmacy
lunch counter—you may be on vacation, but you definitely won’t want to
sleep in.

Hot Dates Galore

Nantucket may be laid-back, but its outsize slate of special events means it’s
anything but sleepy. Among the standouts are the Nantucket Book Festival
(June 14–16), whose featured authors include Susan Orlean; the Nantucket
Film Festival (June 19–June 24); and the Nantucket Comedy Festival (July
11–13). Martha’s Vineyard has plenty of high-profile celebrations, too, such as
the magical Grand Illumination night (August 14). See a full list of the islands’
summer highlights: Top Summer Events on Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard
Cape & Islands Lodging That’s
Worth Checking In To
Whether you’re focused on location, views, or amenities, count on
these Best of New England winners to deliver a memorable stay.

Family-Friendly
Wequassett Resort & Golf Club, Harwich
A pirate-ship playground, old-school ice cream truck, and activity-packed
Children’s Center (scavenger hunts, movie nights)—what’s not to love?
wequassett.com

Wequasett Resort & Golf Club

Courtesy of Wequasett Resort & Golf Club
Ocean Edge Resort, Brewster
With five swimming pools, biking on the Cape Cod Rail Trail, and the Cape’s
only Nicklaus Design golf course, this is what “something for everyone” looks
like.

Winnetu, Edgartown
Antique fire truck rides and an oversize outdoor chess set? Fun. The “family
beach survival kit” with towels, a kite, sand castle supplies, and more? Genius.

Salt House Inn

Courtesy of Salt House Inn
 Walk to Everything
Salt House Inn, Provincetown
A leafy side street two blocks off P-town’s main drag is home to this 15-room
inn that exudes beach-cottage chic.

Reading Yankee is like a

76 Main, Nantucket
New England vacation.
The island’s only boutique hotel set directly on Main Street is a former sea
captain’s home replete with 21st-century style and amenities.
There is magic in Yankee Magazine, and it can all be yours.
• Discover
Belfry Innplaces you never
& Bistro, heard of, and rediscover places you only
Sandwich
thought youpainted
A Victorian knew lady, a Federal-style home, and a 1902 church make up
• Daydream
this unique and
B&Bplan yourin
complex next
the day trip
heart of or
theNew England
Cape’s oldest vacation
town.
• Savor both traditional and modern mouthwatering New England
cuisine in your own home

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!

Worth a Splurge

Chatham Bars Inn

Courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn

Chatham Bars Inn, Chatham

A private beach and a secluded spa add to the feeling of exclusivity at this
venerable (c. 1914) beachside resort that sprawls over 25 acres.
The Charlotte Inn, Edgartown
Gilded mirrors, pastoral oil paintings, and elegant English antiques set the
tone at the only Relais & Châteaux hotel located on Martha’s Vineyard.

Wauwinet, Nantucket
Pampering is a foregone conclusion at this elite retreat, where the staff-to-
guest ratio is nearly 3 to 1.

On the Water

Inn on the Sound

Courtesy of Inn on the Sound

Inn on the Sound, Falmouth

Just steps away from Falmouth Heights Beach, you’ll find 11 comfortably
elegant rooms offering panoramas of Nantucket Sound.
Cliffside Beach Club, Nantucket
This upscale collection of rooms, suites, and cottages on four prime sandy
acres is Nantucket’s purest “on the beach” experience.

The Lighthouse Inn, West Dennis

Nine acres on Nantucket Sound plus a private pocket beach and an “Old
Cape Cod” vibe have made this a classic for 80 years.
 Web Exclusive!
Where to Eat on Cape Cod

Best Bakery,
Seafood Spot, Farm-
to-Table…and More!
Every table has an ocean view at the Beach House at the Chatham Bars Inn.
Courtesy of the Chatham Bars Inn
Senior food editor Amy Traverso shares her list of the best places
to eat on the Cape, from beachfront dining to the perfect cup
of coffee.
For decades, Cape Cod was seen as a vacation destination that offered every
possible summer attraction … except a vibrant dining scene. Not anymore.
Now that tourists have discovered the lure of shoulder seasons, restaurants
have a more reliable customer base from spring through fall. And, as if
making up for lost time, chefs have been flocking to the Cape, rediscovering
the wealth of local seafood, importing every of-the-moment food trend
(kombucha, burrata, hakuna matata), partnering with local farms, and figuring
out the complicated economics of how to thrive in a seasonal market. Thanks
to their efforts, the region is a food lover’s dream.

As part of Yankee’s May/June travel feature “63 Reasons Why We Love the
Cape and Islands,” I’m sharing some of my favorite Cape dining spots. So
when you start planning your own getaway, be sure to bring your appetite!

Best Cape Cod Beachfront Dining: The Beach House at the

Chatham Bars Inn
A few steps beyond the Beach House’s patio is a sandy path down to the
water, but the restaurant itself is perched high enough to capture sweeping
views of Chatham Harbor. Throughout the summer, there are clambakes on
the beach three times a week, and executive chef Anthony Cole enriches the
classic menu (chowder, swordfish tacos, tuna tartare) with seafood from the
Chatham Fish Pier and exceptional produce from the inn’s own farm. (These
ingredients also take center stage at the more formal restaurant, Stars, in the
main building.) Save room for dessert … and time for a postprandial beach
walk.

Best Cape Cod Bakery: Maison Villatte

Boris Villatte trained in Paris with the legendary Eric Kayser and Alain
Ducasse, followed a wave of ambitious young French chefs to Las Vegas,
and eventually landed in Falmouth, where he opened a bakery-pâtisserie.
Here you’ll find all the classics: opera cakes, pain aux raisins, croissants, and
éclairs. But don’t overlook the equally superb breads, which have raised the
baguette game for every other baker in the region. During the peak summer
season, waits can be long, but when the goods are this good, it’s always worth
it.

Another sunny-side-up morning at Spoon and Seed in Hyannis.

Matthew Tropeano

Best Cape Cod Breakfast Spot: Spoon and Seed

Chef-owner Matt Tropeano grew up in Massachusetts but made his name in
the kitchens of Manhattan. At La Grenouille, he earned a coveted three-star
review from The New York Times. With a new family, however, came new
priorities and the call of home. So at this casual Hyannis eatery, Tropeano
serves the breakfast of your dreams: The challah in the French toast is house-
made, the pancakes are fluffy and laced with buttermilk, and there are five
kinds of eggs Benedict topped with real hollandaise. My personal fave:
the cheddar biscuit with scrambled eggs, house-smoked pork loin, and
homemade ham.
Best Cape Cod Ice Cream Shop: Sundae School
Since 1976, Sundae School has woven itself into the hearts and memories of
generations of ice cream–loving vacationers. This is the kind of place where
the strawberry, peach, and blueberry ice creams are made with seasonal fruit;
classic New England grape-nut lives on; and the whipped cream is the real
deal. New flavors may make their way onto the board, but the Endres family
also knows that part of their magic is to make us feel as though some things
never change. Locations in Harwichport, Dennis Port, and East Orleans.

A sampling of house-roasted coffee at Snowy Owl Coffee Roasters in Brewster.

Courtesy of Snowy Owl

Best Cape Cod Coffee Shop: Snowy Owl Coffee Roasters

Shayna Ferullo and Manuel Ainzuain fell in love in San Francisco cafés, and
when they decided to relocate to the Cape, they applied their entrepreneurial
mojo to opening the Cape’s most charming roastery. With its rustic-boho
interior and comfy chairs, this Brewster spot may also be the friendliest, but
don’t mistake the laid-back vibe for any lack of seriousness. This is top-grade
coffee, sourced from small-lot growers and co-ops and roasted on-site. Coffee
nerds love it, but fear not: You can also order a decaf with extra milk and sugar
with pride.

Best Cape Cod Farm-to-Table Restaurant: The Buffalo Jump

I wouldn’t normally take this category quite so literally, but if it’s local/seasonal
you want, why not head to an actual farm — in this case, Coonamessett
Farm in East Falmouth? That’s what chef-owners Brandon Baltzley and Laura
Higgins-Baltzley had in mind when they began doing informal pop-up dinners
in 2016. Now, the Buffalo Jump serves a casual, imaginative breakfast and
lunch seven days a week, April to January, as well as a dinner tasting menu
Sunday through Tuesday. That dinner menu is eclectic, drawing from the local
food shed; the couples’ earlier stints at restaurants in New York, Boston, and
Copenhagen (Baltzley staged at Noma); and Baltlzey’s very fertile imagination.
Here, simple crudités of farm-fresh veg are served with ”aioli that tastes like
sunshine.” Grilled beach roses adorn in a scallop dish. Sometimes the food is
funky, sometimes it’s delightful, but it’s always exciting. And in a dining scene
that leans heavily on the tried-and-true, it’s a welcome addition.

Best Cape Cod Seafood Spot: The Brewster Fish House

The Brewster Fish House, formerly a fish market, sets the bar for fresh, innovative seafood.
Courtesy of Brewster Fish House
What started out decades ago as a local fish market is now a destination
restaurant, and as the Cape’s dining scene grows more ambitious, the Brewster
Fish House keeps raising the bar. Yes, there’s perfect chowder, but also crudo
and a New England spin on bouillabaisse layered with Maine crab and sweet
lobster. Vegetarians and meat lovers are well cared for (as are gluten-free
diners), but try not to miss chef Erik Schnackenberg’s many takes on monkfish
(as a chop with pancetta and kale in autumn; as medallions with fiddleheads
in spring).

Best Cape Cod Upscale Dining: Vers

The plates at Vers are as artful as they are seasonal.
Ashley Bilodeau Photography

Fans of Jonathan and Karen Haffmans mourned the loss of Vers in Chatham,
but the ambitious modern American restaurant reopened in Orleans and it’s
drawing visitors from both ends of the Cape. Jonathan Haffmans’s cooking
could be described as painterly: Take one perfect ingredient, then layer on
complementary flavors to achieve a perfect whole. And given how beautiful
his plating is, the visual metaphor works. This is artful cooking, but never
stuffy.
 Reading Yankee is like a
New England vacation.
There is magic in Yankee Magazine, and it can all be yours.
• Discover places you never heard of, and rediscover places you only
thought you knew
• Daydream and plan your next day trip or New England vacation
• Savor both traditional and modern mouthwatering New England
cuisine in your own home

Subscribe to Yankee Magazine

and enjoy the best of New England
in every issue no matter where you live.

Yes, I want to subscribe to Yankee!