Trouser Fit Cheatsheet

4/14/2018 The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet | Colette Blog
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The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting

Cheatsheet
October 6, 2011
(https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet#comments) 76 (https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/the-
colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet#comments)
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet 1/35
Fitting pants is a bit tricky, let’s face it.
There are a lot of differences among women in the areas between waist and ankles. You’ve got hips and waists of different
sizes, butts of various shapes, legs of all different lengths, thighs that bulge in different ways, calves that may or may not be
muscular. And then there are the differences in posture!
With all these factors, no wonder pants fitting seems so mystifying. And no wonder it’s so hard for most of us to find a good
pair of RTW pants that fit.
I wanted to find a way to distill most of the pants adjustments
4/14/2018
you might need down into an easy to scan format. The idea is
The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet | Colette Blog
that you take a look at the symptoms you’re experiencing with your muslin, then find them on the chart to see which
adjustments might help you solve them.
Waist and Belly
Potential
Symptoms Adjustments
Issue
Tight diagonal “smile”

wrinkles radiating
from the crotch Let out the waistband, add width at the side seam, grading down toward the hipline. (see Large or
Larger
Small Waist Adjustments (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-large-or-small-waist-
waist
adjustment))
Waistband feels too
tight
Drooping “frown”
wrinkles radiating
from the crotch Take the waistband in, remove width at the side seam, grading down toward the hips. (see Large or
Smaller
Small Waist Adjustments (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-large-or-small-waist-
waist
adjustment))
Waistband feels too
loose
Tight diagonal
wrinkles around the
lower belly Full
Add fullness around the lower belly (see Full or Flat Belly Adjustments
lower
(https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-belly-adjustment))
belly
Feels tight over the
belly
Excess vertical folds

Flat
of fabric around the Remove fullness at the lower belly (see Full or Flat Belly Adjustments
lower
(https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-belly-adjustment))
lower belly belly
Hips and Crotch
Potential
Issue
Tight diagonal “smile” wrinkle

radiating from the crotch
Longer Lengthen the front and back above the crotch (see Lengthen or Shorten the Torso
Pants feel like they’re being torso (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-torso-adjustments))
tugged downward at the
crotch
Drooping “frown” wrinkles

Shorter Shorten the front and back above the crotch (see Lengthen or Shorten the Torso
radiating from the crotch torso (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-torso-adjustments))
Tight wrinkles forming around
Wide Add width at the side seams (see Wide or Narrow Hip Adjustment
the hips hips (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-wide-or-narrow-hip-adjustments))
Excess fabric hanging

Narrow Remove width at the side seams (see Wide or Narrow Hip Adjustment
vertically around the hips hips (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-wide-or-narrow-hip-adjustments))
Back and Butt
Potential
Issue
Excess fabric pooling horizontally

above your butt
Pants feel tight across butt Swayback adjustment (see Swayback Adjustment
Swayback
(https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-swayback-adjustment))
Diagonal “smile” wrinkles radiating

from crotch
Excess fabric pooling horizontally

above your butt High butt Shorten the back darts
Excess fabric pooling under your butt

Swayfront Swayfront adjustment
Side seams seem to be bowing
Low butt Lower the crotch curve in the back, for a deeper curve.
Flat butt adjustment (see Full or Flat Butt Adjustment

Excess fabric around the fullest part Flat butt
(https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-butt-adjustments))
of your butt
Tight diagonal wrinkles radiating

from the fullest part of your butt
Full butt adjustment (see Full or Flat Butt Adjustment

Feels tight across the butt Full butt
(https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-full-or-flat-butt-adjustments))
Back waist is pulling down
Legs
Symptoms Potential Issue Adjustments
Pants too long or short Longer or

Lengthen or shorten, either above the knee or at the hem.
shorter legs
Diagonal wrinkles
around the knee, coming
Knock knees Add length at the inseam, remove length at the side seam.
out from the side seams
Diagonal wrinkles
around the knee, coming
Bow legged Add length at the side seam, remove length at the inseam.
from the inseam.
Tight horizontal wrinkles

at the upper thigh
Wrinkles forming from

the crotch to the side Large outer
Let out the side seams at the thigh
thigh area
seam at the thigh
Excess fabric pooling

under the butt
Feels tight across the

upper thigh Large
quadriceps Add width at the inseam of the pants front, close to the crotch and tapering down
Wrinkles at the inner (front thigh toward the knee.
muscles)
thigh, near the crotch
Tight wrinkles coming

from the inseam, near Large inner Add width at the inseam of the pants front, close to the crotch and tapering down
thighs toward the knee.
the crotch
vertically around the Small inner Remove width at the inseam of the pants front, close to the crotch and tapering down
thighs toward the knee.
inner thighs
Tight wrinkles forming

Add width to the pants back, down the center back of your leg. (see Large Calves
around the calf. Large calves
Adjustment (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-large-calf-adjustments))
Tight horizontal wrinkles Add width at the center of the pants front, and the center of the pants back (see Large or
around the whole leg Large legs Thin Leg Adjustments (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-large-or-thin-leg-
adjustments))

Remove width at the center of the pants front, and the center of the pants back (see
vertically all down the
Thin legs Large or Thin Leg Adjustments (https://www.sewalongs.com/clover/clover-large-or-thin-
leg leg-adjustments))
Citations:
Fitting and Pattern Alteration (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1563677830/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=coletterie-
20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1563677830) by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-
Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband (A fantastic, comprehensive fitting book that helped tremendously with the research for this
post), Pants For Real People (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0935278575/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=coletterie-
20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=0935278575) by Pati Palmer and Marti Alto, The Perfect
Fit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1589232275/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=sweetsassa-
20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=1589232275)
(https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/clover?utm_source=blog&utm_campaign=blog-post-button)
(https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fblog.colettehq.com%2Ftutorials%2Fthe-colette-patterns-
pants-fitting-cheatsheet&media=/media/2011/10/clover-back-
02.jpg&description=Colette+Blog%3A+The+Colette+Patterns+Pants+Fitting+Cheatsheet)
SARAI MITNICK — FOUNDER
Sarai started Colette back in 2009. She believes the primary role of a business should be to help people. She loves good books, sewing with wool, her
charming cats, working in her garden, and eating salsa.
You may also be interested in:
(https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/some-pants-fitting-basics)
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patterns)
Comments 76
October 6, 2011
EUNNY whitcombstreet.tumblr.com (http://whitcombstreet.tumblr.com)
omg. saved immediately.
October 6, 2011
SØLVI solvi.se (http://solvi.se/delfinelise/) @delfinelise (https://twitter.com/delfinelise)
This is fantastic! Thank you so much. Will come in handy, especially when sewing for others! :-)
October 6, 2011
ALISON
This is AMAZING. Thanks so much for your work compiling it and posting it!!
I have a question about the full/flat lower belly adjustments, where your suggestion is to add/remove fullness at the lower belly. How
would you go about doing this? I’m picturing slashing from the CF to the side seam, then spreading/overlapping the desired amount. I
*think* this would have the effect of adding/removing a horizontal wedge, widest at the CF and tapering to nothing at the side seam.
Would this work, or would that mess up lengths of other seams/grainlines/ etc?
Author
October 7, 2011
SARAI colettepatterns.com (https://www.colettepatterns.com/) @saraicat (https://twitter.com/saraicat)
4/14/2018 Yes, you want to do that, but *also* add/remove width
The Colette at the
Patterns CF,
Pants tapering
Fitting up| from
Cheatsheet Colette the
Blog crotch. That way, you’re not just changing
the length, but changing the fullness over the belly.
However, you might notice that adding width at the CF changes the size of the waist seam, right?
So on most pants, what you want to do is take that change and move it to the front dart. So if you added a 1/2″ to the width
(just an example), make the dart 1/2″ bigger.
These pants happen to not have a front dart. You have two choices here. You can either add a front dart, or you could remove
the width at the CF seam, tapering down toward the belly.
This is sounding a bit complicated all written out. I will see if I can do a tutorial if I have time!
October 7, 2011
LSASPACEY lifeisexamined.blogspot.com (http://lifeisexamined.blogspot.com)
Yes, please? I’ll be needing to add a bit of “fullness” or a PBA (pot belly adjustment) to my Clovers too!
October 7, 2011
ALISON
Thanks so much!! This makes sense (at least picturing it in my head), so I will try it and see! Again: many many thanks
for this chart!
October 6, 2011
MARLISE pomme-et-asperge.blogspot.com (http://pomme-et-asperge.blogspot.com/)
This is great, thank you for putting this together! I gave up sewing pants because I wasn’t patient enough to fix all the fitting issues I
had. But I might give it another try… Btw, I love your blog!
October 6, 2011
REBECCA
AWESOME! This is great!
October 6, 2011
SERAPHINALINA seraphinalina.blogspot.com (http://seraphinalina.blogspot.com/)
That’s awesome, what a great resource. Thanks for compiling that, it will be great to see all the tutorials.
October 6, 2011
MELANIE
Wow this is an amazing reference! Thanks for sharing this. But just one question: what measurement is best for choosing which size to
start with? I know to use my high bust for tops because the shoulders are most difficult to fit. For pants, should it be the widest part so
other things could be taken in? Or are there other factors to consider like a large difference between waist and hips or many large
thighs? ( If the answer to this is “take a class” fair enough. You must have put in an awful lot of work on this post and it seems greedy to
ask for more. )
October 6, 2011
LSASPACEY lifeisexamined.blogspot.com (http://lifeisexamined.blogspot.com)
I think the common wisdom is to pick a size that matches the widest part, usually the hips or the booty because the waist can
be adjusted.
Author
October 7, 2011
I agree with Lisa’s answer… you usually want to go by the hip measurement.
KNITMO portraitofawannabedomesticgoddess.blogspot.com (http://www.portraitofawannabedomesticgoddess.blogspot.com)

October 6, 2011
@knitmo (https://twitter.com/knitmo)
I am so glad to see this distilled so simply. I can’t wait to actually get my muslin made and really identify what I need to
do.
October 6, 2011
ROBIN
OMG. I love you. Thank you SO MUCH for posting this!! What a fantastic resource.
I always have a problem with just pajama and yoga pants I make pulling down at the back waist, and I love that you told me I need a
FBA and that you’re going to tell me how to do it. If I can have success with these easy type pants, then I’ll be so much more likely to
take on a more challenging pair of real pants, like the Clover pants. :-)
Author
October 7, 2011
SARAI colettepatterns.com (https://www.colettepatterns.com/)
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet @saraicat (https://twitter.com/saraicat) 21/35
4/14/2018 I hear you, I have the same fitting issue a lotThe
of Colette
the time, and
Patterns inFitting
Pants ready to wear| Colette
Cheatsheet too. Blog
October 6, 2011
DEBI fashionsfromthepast.blogspot.com (http://fashionsfromthepast.blogspot.com)
Sarai–you are a sewing goddess!!! Thank you for this post!
October 6, 2011
WENDY
This looks completely fantastic!

I too would appreciate more information on the full lower tummy adjustment – my cherubs have not left my tummy in anything
resembling it’s former glory?!
Author
October 7, 2011
4/14/2018 Check out my comment to Allison above! The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet | Colette Blog
October 6, 2011
GINGER
Thank you so much for the awesome chart. I’m saving it, I know I will use it again and again.
October 7, 2011
KATIE
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for this! I can’t wait to see the tutorial for a larger waist adjustment. I often have this problem and I
can’t find many tutorials online for it! I won’t be working on the Clover until my workload gets lighter, but I’m glad you will be posting
these tutorials on here.
I do have a question for you: when cutting out the pattern for the pants, what measurement should I go with? I was told it’s the hip
measurement, but the waist measurement is significantly smaller than my actual waist (I have almost a rectangular shape with a gentle
waist curve). Should I go with my waist measurement and then adjust the hips?
Author
October 7, 2011
I’d still go with the hip measurement. It’s just a lot easier to adjust the size of the waist than it is to fiddle with the hip area.
If you have a really significant difference, just cut two sizes to start with when making your muslin! For example, if you have a
size 8 hip and size 12 waist, cut most of the pattern in an 8, but grade the line toward the size 12 at the waist. Then do your
muslin and see how that works.
October 7, 2011
MANDY
Thanks so much for this extremely useful chart. I have saved it because I know I shall need to refer to it.
What a lovely idea, to put it all together in a chart like this. I does make it so easy to use as a reference.
Like Katie, I often have a problem deciding which size to go for in any new pattern I am trying for the first time. Is there any advice on
choosing the best size? In the past I have wasted time making muslins only to decide I ought to have chosen a different size to start
with.
Author
October 7, 2011
4/14/2018 Generally, you want to choose size based onThe the most
Colette difficult
Patterns areas
Pants Fitting to fit. For
Cheatsheet bodices/dresses/blouses,
| Colette Blog this is the bust and
shoulders. For skirts and pants, it’s usually the hips.
It’s a good idea to also look at the finished garment measurements to see how much ease is included. The big 4 pattern
companies include a lot of extra ease.
October 7, 2011
EGHBRAVO
Hi, I’m new to your site and I’m glad I joined! This is so helpful and the most concise explanation of how to address my getting-pants-to-
fit dilema. I don’t have problems making pants for myself because I’ve made enough mistakes on my own pants to know where my own
pattern-fitting nuances are…but this is so handy when it comes to making pants for other people (I don’t have to cringe at the idea
anymore). I can’t wait for the tutorials!
October 8, 2011
MEAGAN
Thankyou Sarai. I have dwelling over making some capri pants as the last pair just didn’t fit right. now to make the corrections to the
pattern and try again. Thankyou, than you
October 8, 2011
JANE
No matter how many times I measure myself I come out at a 27″ waist and a 38″ hip: supposedly a Colette size 6. However, I’ve made
my muslin and it’s far too small, not even close!
The problem seems to be that the pattern tapers inwards at the point where my hips are still at their widest. The trousers are definitely a
38 just above the crotch but a bit higher they reduce to a 36 and at that point I am still a 38. I’m going to need at least an extra couple of
inches just to get the zip to close. I also feel the trousers sit very low and might be more flattering if they come up a bit higher.
Do you think I should try a muslin in an 8 or a 10 or is there some way I can adjust the rise to bring it up higher?
Author
October 8, 2011
Jane, I’m going to be posting tutorials all next week, but from what you’ve said it sounds like you might need to lengthen the
torso. They definitely shouldn’t feel like they are sitting too low, but should be just below the waist.
Personally, I have a short torso (though I’m an average height for my size) and they come up too *high* on me without
adjustment. I’m just mentioning that because I think it’s a good illustration of how much bodies can vary and why fitting is so
important!
October 8, 2011
JANE
Thank you Sarai. I’m looking forward to seeing the tutorials and getting on to the next steps!
October 8, 2011
EMILY-JANE
This is fantastic, Sarai! Thanks for putting it together for us all.
I have a question, though, that I think isn’t addressed in your cheat sheet. I’ll give you a little background first, in case it helps:
RTW pants almost never fit me unless I really get lucky with the “curvy” fit, because I have a bit of a swayback and my hips (40″) are a
bigger standard size than my waist (28″). The back waist nearly always gaps, and sometimes the sideseams aren’t straight. These
things I can fix when I’m sewing my own pants, and sometimes correct in RTW pants.
But, the fit issue that just kills me and that I’ve never been able to reliably fix with pants I’ve made for myself is that the hem of the pants
hang funny. They stay close to the leg in the front, over my foot, but stick out awkwardly in the back, over my heel. I’ve seen this on lots
of other women who are generously built through the hip and butt, and it happens more with short pants, and pants with a flared leg.
But seriously, it would be nice to be able to make a pair of capris or ankle length pants (like Clover!) and know I was going to avoid this
pitfall. Do you have any suggestions?
Author
October 10, 2011

It’s really hard to diagnose a problem like this, but it sounds like it might be a symptom of the swayback issue. The swayback
posture can pull the fabric of the pants toward the back like you’re describing.
October 10, 2011

CHLOE MOWER @madebymissmower (https://twitter.com/madebymissmower)
Sarai you have an amazing way of explaining pattern adjustments. Do you do master classes or workshops?
Thanks, Chloe
Author
October 10, 2011

Maybe someday! I don’t have much time for teaching at the moment, but it’s a great idea.
October 13, 2011

PAMELA
Cannot wait for the flat butt tutorial – I do avoid making pants for this very reason!
October 13, 2011

EASILYAMEWSED
I’m curious what a ‘SWAY FRONT’ is in relation to the excess fabric below the buttocks? Is this another way of describing a backward
hip tilt? My DD has this issue and I’d really like to see your take on altering for it if it’s not simply doing SWAY BACK alt in reverse.
So far all your alts are very clear and quite helpful.
October 13, 2011

BECKSNYC
I like your IDEA of trying to pair “Symptoms” with “Issues” and “Adjustments.” It’s a great concept! Kudos for tackling it!
However, even with 35 years altering RTW & sewing custom clothing, I cannot reconcile some of your symptoms with the suggested
adjustments. For example, a large waist does not necessarily create smile wrinkles radiating from the crotch. It depends on where the
person carries their weight. I’ve seen many a customer with a large waist (not tummy) and a flat seat or short rise (crotch depth), in
which case the wrinkles, if any, run across and usually just above the fullest part of the seat.
4/14/2018 May I suggest that, “a picture is worth a thousand words,” soPatterns
The Colette a photo inFitting
Pants the first column
Cheatsheet would
| Colette Blog help us visualize the fitting issues you
describe.
Pants are complicated due to their construction and the tremendous variety in the human form. Hats off to your efforts to break the
adjustments down!
Becks
Author
October 13, 2011

Yes, of course this is by necessity a simplification. If someone has a combination of different fit issues, it can manifest in a
completely different way. However, I think people need at least a place to start.
Your photo suggestion is great! It sounds like a great concept for a fitting book rather than a blog post, perhaps.
December 2, 2011
SUNNY
Oh my gosh…is that the premise of your second book? ::fingers crossed::
October 13, 2011

LINDA
Concerning the waist, how do you address if the slacks pull down in the middle back due to more room needed for the butt?
October 18, 2011

EM
Just want to express thanks for the wonderful hints and tutorials! Really helpful.
November 18, 2011

GINGER summersdesigns.blogspot.com (http://summersdesigns.blogspot.com/)
I posted a pic and link to one of your tutorials. I hope you don’t mind, but let me know if you want me to remove it and I will do it right
away. Thank you for this chart, it is great!
January 2, 2012
NANCY
Where can I find the swayfront adjustment?
January 2, 2012
EASILYAMEWSED
I also had this question about the swayfront. I’ve not heard the term before so does it mean using the front pattern alt shown for the
swayback adjustment or something entirely different?
I noted the term is not linked so it makes me think the latter.
Thanks for any clarification.
April 2, 2012
KATHI S
Wow! I am printing this out and laminating it for my sewing room! This is the first tutorial that addresses my leg issues.
April 16, 2012

MARY J.
This is a great list. I use Palmer and Pletch, and will put this in my alteration book
June 26, 2012

INNA thewallinna.blogspot.com (http://thewallinna.blogspot.com)
This cheatsheet is GREAT! I’ve even printed it out :)
July 27, 2012

SHANNON
Things I have learned about my legs, butt and hips while trying to make these pants: I have knock knees, peg legs (thin– oddly my
hamstrings are what are small, not my quads), a waist that doesn’t curve in very much, a very low butt and I suspect a ‘swayfront’
problem but I can’t quite figure out how to adjust for. But even with that last issue, after ripping apart my first pair of Clovers about 8
times, I finally got a fit I really like! Then the fabric stretched out like crazy. It’s always something. When I can bring myself to pick up the
world’s most time consuming pants again, I’ll take them in some more. I’m so excited about having a pattern to make my own pants
that will fit right.
April 25, 2013

LEDYS fromthesunnyside.wordpress.com (http://www.fromthesunnyside.wordpress.com)
Sarai, would you recommend making the Clover in a fabric that doesn’t have any stretch? I found the perfect color gabardine, but there’s
no stretch in it. What is your source for pant-weight stretch fabrics? Thank you!
August 29, 2013

SEONAID seonaidsews (http://www.seonaidsews/wordpress.com)
Hello! I love this cheat sheet! Thank you. I was wondering if there’s an explanation anywhere of how to do a swayfront adjustment?
We’re sorry, comments for this post have been closed.
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What issues are addressed in the fitting cheatsheet?

What issues are addressed in the fitting cheatsheet?

What adjustments can be made for different body types?

What adjustments can be made for different body types?

4/14/2018 The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet | Colette Blog

Search Blog Archives

The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting

Fitting pants is a bit tricky, let’s face it.

Waist and Belly

Tight diagonal “smile”

Excess vertical folds

Hips and Crotch

Tight diagonal “smile” wrinkle

Drooping “frown” wrinkles

Excess fabric hanging

Back and Butt

Excess fabric pooling horizontally

Diagonal “smile” wrinkles radiating

Excess fabric pooling horizontally

Excess fabric pooling under your butt

Excess fabric pooling under your butt

Flat butt adjustment (see Full or Flat Butt Adjustment

Tight diagonal wrinkles radiating

Full butt adjustment (see Full or Flat Butt Adjustment

Back waist is pulling down

Symptoms Potential Issue Adjustments

Pants too long or short Longer or

Tight horizontal wrinkles

Wrinkles forming from

Excess fabric pooling

Feels tight across the

Tight wrinkles coming

Tight wrinkles forming

Excess fabric hanging

SARAI MITNICK — FOUNDER

Some pants ﬁtting basics (https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/some-pants-ﬁtting-basics)

2011: The Year in Tutorials (https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/2011-the-year-in-tutorials)

First Look: Colette Patterns Fall 2011 (https://blog.colettehq.com/news/ﬁrst-look-colette-patterns-fall-2011)

Introducing Albion and Cooper, from Walden by Colette Patterns (https://blog.colettehq.com/news/introducing-albion-and-cooper-from-walden-by-colette-

omg. saved immediately.

the length, but changing the fullness over the belly.

AWESOME! This is great!

KNITMO portraitofawannabedomesticgoddess.blogspot.com (http://www.portraitofawannabedomesticgoddess.blogspot.com)

Sarai–you are a sewing goddess!!! Thank you for this post!

This looks completely fantastic!

This is fantastic, Sarai! Thanks for putting it together for us all.

October 10, 2011

October 10, 2011

October 10, 2011

October 13, 2011

October 13, 2011

October 13, 2011

October 13, 2011

Oh my gosh…is that the premise of your second book? ::ﬁngers crossed::

October 13, 2011

October 18, 2011

November 18, 2011

Where can I ﬁnd the swayfront adjustment?

April 16, 2012