You're more creative than you think.

Adjusting Sewing Patterns with Simplicity

with Deborah Kreiling

Deborah Kreiling specializes in teaching home sewists how commercial patterns work,
and how they can be adjusted to create the best fitting garments. As the director of
design development at Simplicity, Deb has been in the business of helping home sewers
make and adjust beautiful garments for over 30 years. In this comprehensive course, Deb
teaches the ins and outs of making a variety of pattern alterations that cover things like
bust adjustments, adding or subtracting ease, lengthening hems, and adjusting darts and
princess seams.

Continued

© Simplicity Pattern Company and Creativebug Inc., 2016 1

 Adjusting Sewing Patterns with Simplicity with Deborah Kreiling

Learn How To: Materials:

– Take measurements – Simplicity pattern of your choosing (Deb
– Understand ease demonstrates with Simplicity pattern 1099 –
– Understand measurement relationships to create Project Runway Sizes D5-4, P5 12-20)
pattern adjustments – Simplicity Perfect Fit Guide (contains
– Work with commercial patterns measurement worksheet)
– Add and remove ease – Pattern tissue paper or tracing paper
– Clear ruler
– French curve
Continued – Paper scissors
– Measuring chart
– Pins
– Measuring tape
– Scotch tape

© Simplicity Pattern Company and Creativebug Inc., 2016 2

 ?
PERFECT
FITGUIDE

DO YOU
REALLY
KNOW
YOUR
SEWING
PATTERN
SIZE?
Find out how to use your
own measurements to
determine your pattern size.

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 SIMPLICIT Y FIT GUIDE
A guide for the perfect fit!
Do you REALLY know your pattern size?
Learn how to use your body measurements
to determine your pattern size.

Look at Size
with New Eyes
Begin by discarding any
assumptions you may have about
what size you wear. Then think
about the last time you went clothes
shopping. Did every garment in
“your” size fit you? Of course not!
Standard body measurements vary
from one garment manufacturer
to another. And the measurements
used by your favorite ready-to-wear
brands may not correspond to other
ready-to wear brands or to the
standard body measurements that
are used to develop the patterns.
The good news is that patterns
are based on standard body
measurements. Once you have
compared your body measurements
to the standard body measurements
you can choose your pattern size
(or sizes) and be all set to sew.

2 www.simplicity.com

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 Measure & Compare
The way to determine pattern
size is to take accurate body
measurements, then compare them
with the standards. The illustrations
and charts on the following pages
will take you, step by step, through
this process.
In some cases, your pattern size
may be one or two sizes larger
than your ready-to-wear size.
But PLEASE don’t let preconceived
notions stand in the way of good fit.
Who’s to know what pattern
size you use?
A good fitting garment looks great
and there certainly won’t be any
size labels sewn into your finished
garments!

Different shapes, but all a size 12!

It’s also a good idea to retake your

measurements every six months.
Body contours and measurements
do change when losing or gaining,
or just reshaping. It is these body
measurements that are going
to be your guide to great fitting
garments.
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 HOW TO ME A SURE
Measure over comfortable undergarments.
Hold the tape measure snug, but not tight. Tie a narrow elastic around
the waist. Bend and stretch until it settles at the natural waistline.
Record your measurements on the chart on the facing page.

1 1
1 HEIGHT*:
Stand barefoot against a flat
wall. Measure from the floor
to the top of your head.

2 BUST:
Around the fullest part of the
bust and straight across
5
the back. 3 3
2 2
3 HIGH BUST/
CHEST:
Around the body, under the 4 4
arms above the fullest part
of the bust.

4 WAIST: 6 6
Around the body, over the
waistline elastic.

5 BACK WAIST*:
Lower your head to identify
the prominent bone at the
base of the neck.
Measure from this bone to
the waistline elastic.

6 HIP:
Around the body at the fullest
part, usually 7"-9" below
the waist.
*These two measurements
require the help of a friend.

1 1

4 www.simplicity.com

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 YOUR MEASUREMENT WORKSHEET
BODY MEASUREMENTS YOUR PATTERN SIZE
WHAT TO MEASURE Pattern
Yours Standards Preliminary Final

HEIGHT
(measure from the floor
to the top of your head)

BUST
(around the fullest part)

HIGH BUST/CHEST:
(directly under the arms, above
the Bust and around the back)

WAIST
(around elastic)

BACK WAIST
(measure from base of neck to
waist elastic)

FULL HIP
(around the fullest part approximately
7"-9" below waist)

YOUR PERSONAL MEASUREMENTS

Tops, Dresses,
GARMENT: Jackets & Coats
Pants & Slim Skirts Fuller Skirts

MY PATTERN
SIZE

TIPS
If you fall between sizes, here are a few factors to consider:
1. Bone structure. If you’re small boned, choose the smaller size; if you’re large boned, choose the larger one.
2. Fitting preference. If you like a close fit, choose the smaller size; if you prefer a loose fit, go for the
larger one.

3. Fashion silhouette. The more closely fitted the silhouette, the safer you are in choosing the larger size.
If you are larger than a B-cup size, you’ll get a better fit if you look for designs with bust darts and increase
the size of the dart. Look for Simplicity Patterns with separate pattern pieces included for B,C and D cup
sizes. On the next page, we will show you how to adjust the pattern to accommodate for a larger cup size.
See FITTING FAQS on the next page for more information.

© 2015 BY SIMPLICITY PATTERN CO. INC. • MFD FOR SIMPLICITY PATTERN CO. INC. 261 MADISON AVE NEW YORK NY 10016 USA • PRINTED IN USA
5

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 BODY ME A SUREMENT CHAR T S

The following charts give the standard bust, waist, hip and
back waist length measurements that correspond to
Misses’ pattern sizes 4 to 26, and Women's pattern sizes 18W to 32W.

STANDARD MISSES’ BODY MEASUREMENTS

Designed for a well proportioned, developed figure, about 5'5" to 5'6" without shoes.

SIZE 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

BUST 29½ 30½ 31½ 32½ 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

WAIST 22 23 24 25 26½ 28 30 32 34 37 39 41½

HIP 31½ 32½ 33½ 34½ 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

BACK
15½ 15½ 15¾ 16 16¼ 16½ 16¾ 17 17¼ 17 3/8 17½ 17¾
WAIST LENGTH

STANDARD WOMEN’S BODY MEASUREMENTS

Designed for a larger, fuller figure, about 5'5" to 5'6" without shoes.

SIZE 18W 20W 22W 24W 26W 28W 30W 32W

BUST 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

WAIST 33 35 37 39 41½ 44 46½ 49

HIP 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

BACK
171/8 17¼ 173/8 17½ 17 5/8 17¾ 17 7/8 18
WAIST LENGTH

For queries
concerning
FIT Consumer Information Department toll free 1-888-588-2700
contact us! www.simplicity.com email [email protected]

Z001483 0159
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 HOW TO USE
MEASUREMENTS TO DETERMINE SIZE
Follow these three simple steps to determine your pattern sizes. We say “sizes” because you may find
that your jacket/blouse/top/dress size is different from your skirt or pant size.
STEP 1 STEP 3
Your Body Measurements Final Pattern Size
Enter your personal body measurements in the The Bust Measurement determines final pattern
appropriate spaces in the first blank column, size for tops, dresses, jackets & coats.
in YOUR MEASUREMENT WORKSHEET. There is, however, an exception.
Patterns are drafted for the B-cup figure. If your bra
STEP 2 cup size is larger than a B, it will affect the way the
Pattern Standards pattern fits. Use Your Measurements Worksheet to
determine your cup size. Subtract your High Bust/
Turn to the STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENT Chest measurement from your Bust measurement.
chart.
Here’s what the difference means:
Find the standard measurements that are closest Less than 2½": ..... You’re an A- or B-cup.
to your personal measurements for bust, waist 2½" to 3": ............ You’re a C-cup
and hip. 3½" to 4": ............ You’re a D-cup
4" or more: .......... You’re larger than a D-cup
Enter each measurement and its corresponding
If you are a B-cup or smaller, use your Bust
pattern size (which will be your preliminary
measurement to determine your final pattern size.
pattern size) in the appropriate spaces in the
next two columns. If you are a C-cup or larger, match your High Bust/
Chest measurement to the Bust measurement
If you fall between two sizes write them both of the Standard Body Measurement Chart to
down. For example, if your bust measures 37½", determine your final pattern size. This will ensure
the closest standard measurement is 38", good fit in those hard-to-adjust areas-shoulders,
which gives you size 16 as the preliminary size. neckline, chest and upper back.
If your bust measures 37", your preliminary The Waist Measurement determines final pattern
pattern size options are size 14 (a 36" bust) size for skirts that are not fitted in the hip area.
or size 16 (a 38" bust).
The Hip Measurement determines the final pattern
size for pants and most skirts.

FIT TING FAQ S

Q Why don’t all patterns that are the same size fit compare them with garments you already have in your
the same way? wardrobe. You can even use a tape measure to see how
A The reason is something called “ease”, the amount of much room there is over your body.
fullness added to a pattern’s design. There are two types Q What if my height and back-waist length measurements
of ease. Wearing ease is the minimum “wiggle room” are shorter than standards for my pattern size?
built into the garment. All garments, except swimwear A If you are shorter than 5'5" and your back waist is at
and some knit garments, contain wearing ease. Design least 1" shorter than the one that corresponds to your bust
ease is the extra amount that gives the intended fashion size, you are probably a Miss Petite. Look for “Misses”
look. If a particular pattern is too large or too small for patterns that have a special “Fit For Petite” logo. These
you, it may be because the amount of design ease is not will give you instructions for adjusting the pattern’s
in proportion to your bone structure. Before purchasing lengthwise proportions to suit your petite figure.
a pattern, study the artwork and the photographs. These
will give you information about the designer’s intent. Q What’s my size in Small, Medium, Large Size Patterns?
Q Is there anyway I can tell how much ease there is in A Patterns sized small, medium and large are cut for the
a particular pattern? larger size in each designation. Unisex patterns, because
A Photo and art presentations, technical drawings and they are designed to fit both men and women, use the
finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope man’s chest measurement to determine the size range.
indicate how the garment is designed to fit. For these patterns, match your best measurement to the
Finished garment measurements in key areas are given chest measurement.
on most pattern envelopes in addition to being printed Q I’m a different size top and bottom. Are there
on the pattern tissue. Note that the finished garment any shortcuts to pattern adjustment?
measurements will include the wearing ease and the A Multi-size patterns are the perfect solution. Because
design ease that is built into the pattern. If you can’t several sizes are printed on the same pattern tissue, you can
visualize what these measurements mean, measure and follow the cutting lines for the size you are in each body area.
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 ?
PERFECT
FITGUIDE

DO YOU
REALLY
KNOW
YOUR
SEWING
PATTERN
SIZE?
Find out how
to use your own
measurements to
determine your pattern size.
Z65800003

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