Lesson 9

INTRODUCING FULLNESS

Introduction

Fullness is introduced into garments for various reasons such as:-

1) To give good shape and proper fit to the garment.

2) To allow freedom of movement and comfort to the wear.

3) To make the garment look attractive.

Darts, pleats, tucks, godets, flare, ruffles, gathers and shirring are some of the devices for introducing
fullness. DARTS:- Darts are one of the most basic structural elements in dressmaking. They are used to
build, into a flat piece of fabric, a definite shape that will allow the fabric to conform to a particular body
contour or curve. Darts occur most often at the bust, back, waist and hips; accuracy in their position and
in their fit is important if they are to gracefully emphasize the lines in these areas. Darts are used to
shape a flat piece of fabric to fit the curves of a figure.

Learning Outcomes

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

 Carry out the appropriate fullness work on the given fabric

 Discuss the importance of fullness in clothing construction.

Activity

Stick atleast 10 pictures or images that describe the word fullness on separate paper.

Analysis:

1. How would you relate the images you stick to your life as a student taking this subject?

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A contour dart is a long, single dart that fits at the waistline and then tapers off in two opposite
directions to fit either both the bust and hip (font contour dart) or the fullest part of
both the back and the hip (back contour dart). In effect, it takes the place of two
separate waistline darts, one of them tapering toward the bust or back and the
other toward the hip. Contour darts are wide in the middle and pointed at both
ends. They are used at the waistline of one-piece dresses or blouses with length
extending beyond the waistline. Contour darts are also called fish darts, body darts
or double pointed darts.

The standard dart is triangular in shape ie. wide at one end and
pointed at the other end. They are used on saree blouses, skirts,
trousers, elbow of long sleeves. Standard dart is also known as ‘V’
dart, single pointed dart or arrow head dart.

Darts may be decorative, functional or both. Any dart placed in an unusual manner or
stitched on the right side of the garment can be decorative. Usually these darts are
very small. Functional darts are intended for fitting the body curves i.e. bust, hip,
shoulder and elbow. They should point to the fullest part of the curve, but must not
extend as far as the curve.

Variation of darts: French dart:- Extends diagonally from the side seam in the hip area
to the bust. The diagonal line can be straight or slightly curved. French darts are found
on the front of a garment, never the back.

Dart tucks or released tucks -Dart tucks, sometimes also called

released tucks, are used to control fullness and then release it at
a desired point, such as the bust or hips. They can be formed on
the inside or outside of the garment; fullness can be released at
either or both ends. Sometimes the tuck is stitched across the
bottom. Dart tucks may be stitched on the straight grain, or in some instances, the
stitching lines may be curved to build in a certain amount of shaping. Care must be
taken especially when stitching lines are curved, to match them accurately.
Reinforce the stitches by tying threads or back stitching. Press carefully to avoid
creasing folds.

Principles of basting & stitching darts:- Carefully transfer the dart marking from the paper pattern to the
fabric. Find the center point (A) on the wide end of the dart and mark a fold from this point to the tip (B)
of the dart, keeping the right sides of fabric together. Baste exactly along the marked stitching line. After
checking the fit of the garment, the dart should be machined from the wide end to the narrow end,
tapering off to nothing at the point. The threads should be fastened at the tapered ends with a knot.
Back stitching can be used as a reinforcement at the wide end but should not be used at the point.
Contour darts should be stitched in two steps:- Start from the widest
portion (a little above the widest portion) of the dart tapering off at
the end, then go back to the widest portion (a little below the widest
portion) of the dart tapering off at the other end. The stitches at the
widest portion of the dart should overlap

Darts should be pressed after stitching. The general rule is to press

vertical darts towards center front or center back and horizontal darts
downward.

Dart Finishes:- A ‘V’ dart when worked on heavy fabrics, should be cut
along the fold of the dart and then pressed open. This finish is called a
deep dart finish. Where as a contour dart (when the dart intake is more)
must be slited at the widest portion of the dart, so as to allow the fabric to
fit into the contour of the body without puckering. This finish is called
‘contour dart with a snip at the widest portion’.

Princess seams: -Princess seams are shaped seams

designed to fit he body’s contours. Beginning at the
shoulder or armhole, front or back, and running lengthwise,
they may go just to the waistline seam or extend all the
way to the hem. A typical princess seam will curve outward
to accommodate the fullest part of the bust or back, then
inward to conform to the waist, and finally outward again
to fit over the hips. A princess seam conceals the waistline
and the side seam dart in its seam

Every princess seam consists of two separate edges curved in a precise

relationship to each other. When joined, the seam shapes itself around
the contours of the body. A princess seam garment will have a center panel and two identical side
panels, together producing a princess seam on each side of the garment.

PLEATS:- A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is
commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrow circumference.
Pleats provide controlled fullness. Pleating may occur as a single pleat, as a cluster, or around an entire
garment section. Basically, each pleat is folded along a specified line, generally called the fold line, and
the fold aligned with another line, the placement line. Patterns will vary as to what these lines are
actually called and how or whether they appear on the pattern. Pleats can be folded in several different
styles, the most common being the knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats. Most pleats are formed
by folding a continuous piece of fabric onto itself. The exception is a pleat with a separate underlay
stitched at the back. A pleat with an underlay is always an inverted pleat. Almost any type of fabric can
be pleated provided the right pleating techniques and finishes are employed. Pleat folds may be either
soft or sharp. The fabric best suited for sharply folded pleats is one that will crease easily, is smooth and
crisp, light to medium in weight, and firmly woven. Gabardine is a typical example. Pleats can be folded
in several different styles, the most common being the knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted pleats.
Other types of pleats are kick pleats, cartridge pleats, pinch pleats, fan pleats, sunburst pleats, accordion
pleats.

Knife pleats :- They are usually about ½” to 1” wide. Knife pleat have one fold line and one
placement line; all the folds are turned in the same direction i.e. from right to left. Some
garments may have one cluster facing one way and another facing the opposite way. To
work one pleat you need an extra allowance of fabric which is equal to three times the
finished width of the pleat. E.g. To work a 1” pleat, you need 3” of fabric.

Box pleats:- They are formed when two knife pleats are turned
away from each other (one to the left and one to the right). Box
pleats have two fold lines and two placement lines

Inverted pleats:- They are formed when two knife pleats

are turned toward each other so that the folds meet. They
have two fold lines and a common placement line. The
back folds of this pleat face away from each other.

Kick pleats:- They are actually inverted pleats which has fullness released in the
lower 6 to 8 inches of skirts

Cartridge pleats:- these are round pleats used as trimming

for skirts and dresses and are suitable only on firm fabrics.
They are also worked on draperies

Pinch pleats:- These are used on

curtains and draperies. Since the pleats are spaced apart
from each other and stitched part way down, markings are
made as for tucks. A broad pleat is worked in the form of a
tuck which is stitched part way and the fullness is divided
into 3 equal portions to form 3 small pleats which are
pressed and stitched together across the top and / bottom
ends.
Fan pleats:- Consists of a cluster of knife pleats which have different fold lines and one common
placement line. Each time the pleat is worked the width of the pleat increases. To complete the fan
effect cluster of knife pleats are worked facing the right and left forming a large inverted pleat in the
middle.

Sunburst pleats:- These consists of narrow pleats which are wider at the bottom
then at the top because they are introduced on circular skirts.

Accordion pleats:- Are very narrow pleats of uniform width

resembling the bellows of an accordion. Front folds stand slightly
away from the body, which allows the garment to expand its
shape when moving. It is best done by a commercial pleater.
Pleat finishes:- pleats can be given a soft fold, sharp fold, top stitched or edge
stitched finish. Pleat folds may be either soft or sharp. The fabric best suited for
sharply folded pleats is one that will crease easily, is smooth and crisp, light to medium weight, and
firmly woven. For soft, unpressed pleats, almost any fabric is suitable. The best choices are those that
are fluid and will fall into graceful folds. Top stitching and edge stitching are two valuable techniques for
helping pleats to lie and hang as they should. Top stitching, though primarily decorative, serves also to
hold pleats in place in the hip-to waist area. It is done through all thickness of the pleat. Edge stitching is
applied along the fold of a pleat both to maintain the fold and to give it a sharper crease. It is done after
the hem is completed.

Tucks:- A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or machine stitch on the right side of
the garment as a means of:

1) Shaping the garment,

2) For holding in fullness and

3) To decorative the garment. Each tuck is formed from two stitching lines that are matched and
stitched; the fold of the tuck is produced when the lines come together. A tuck’s width is the distance
from the fold to the matched lines. The width can vary, as can the space.between tucks. Most tucks are
stitched on the straight grain, parallel to the fold, and so are uniform in width. When calculating the
amount of material that is needed, remember that each tuck, calls for an allowance equal to twice its
finished width. So for making a group of 4 tucks of 1/8” finished width, allow 4x(1 /8X2) =1inch extra
material. When tucks are to be introduced in a garment, always remember to tuck the fabric first and
then cut the garment section. There are several methods of tucking, some of which are listed below:-

a) Pin Tucks: - these are tiny dainty tucks used on baby clothes and fine
blouses. They are usually less than ¼ inch wide.

b) Piped or corded tucks: - these are made by placing cord

on the wrong side of the fabric at the center of the tuck
before stitching the tuck. Stitching should be done close to
the chord.

c) Shell or scalloped tucks: - this is a decorative tuck worked

by hand. Mark and crease the fabric as for a straight tuck
of about ¼ inch width. On the line of stitching mark uniformly spaced dots
about 1 /2 inch apart. Stitch the tuck using small running stitches. As you
come to each dot, take two overcasting stitches through the dot and pull
tight before proceeding further with the running stitches.

d) Cross tucking: - when rows of tucks are stitched

along the fabric in both horizontal/vertical directions, the effect obtained is called
cross tucking. First stitch the vertical tucks and press them to one side. Then stitch
the horizontal tucks.

e) Group tucks with scalloped effect: - Work narrow

tucks fairly close to each other, and press to one
side. At right angles to the tucks mark lines at regular intervals for
crosswise stitching. On the first line stitch across the tucks in the
direction they were pressed. On the second line stitch across the tucks
after pressing them in the opposite direction. Continue stitching,
alternating the direction of the tucks in successive
rows

f) Wide tucks: - are similar to pin tucks, but are much wider. Their width varies from ¼
to 3 /8inch.

g) Blind tucks: - Wide tucks when worked close to each other

concealing the stitching line, you get blind tucks; they are so called blind tucks
because one tuck conceals the stitching line of the next tuck.
FLARES:- Flares are usually introduced in the lower portion of garments, such as in
skirts, pants, trousers, etc. they can be introduced in sleeves. Flare in a basic skirt is the
difference between its measurements at the hem line and hip line. Circular skirts
(made from a complete circle of fabric) have the maximum flare.

GODETS:- These are wedge shaped pieces which are usually

set into a skirt so that the wide side of the wedge becomes a
part of the hem of the skirt.

RUFFLES:- A Ruffle is a strip of fabric cut

or handled in such a way as to produce
fullness. Though primarily decorative,
ruffles may also serve a practical purpose,
such as lengthening a garment. Types of Ruffles:- Ruffles are of
two types, straight and circular, which differ in the way they are
cut. The straight ruffle is cut as a strip of fabric; the circular ruffle is
cut from a circle. With the straight ruffle, both edges are the same length and the fullness is produced
through gathering, sometimes pleating. For the circular ruffle, a small circle is cut from the center of a
large one and the inner edge forced to lie flat, producing fullness on the outer, longer edge. Soft
lightweight fabrics ruffle best. A general rule for deciding the proper relation between ruffle width and
fullness: the wider the ruffle (or the sheerer the fabric) the fuller the ruffle should be. Straight ruffles are
gathered to produce fullness.

Circular ruffles are specially cut to produce fullness

The deep fullness and the fluid look characteristic of circular ruffles are
created by the way the fabric is cut rather than by means of gathering
stitches. Circular ruffles can be used anywhere that gathered ruffles
would be suitable; they are especially effective at necklines and when
made of sheer, light weight fabrics. To make circular ruffles, a paper
pattern is essential. Measure the length of the edge to which ruffle will be attached; this will be the
circumference of the inner circle. Next, decide the width of the ruffle, this will be the
distance between the inner and outer circles.

Straight Ruffles:- There are 3 types of straight ruffles:- 1) Plain Ruffle: - has one finished
edge (usually a small hem); the other edge is gathered to size and then sewed into a
seam or into another unfinished edge.
 2) Ruffle with a heading: - has both edges finished or hemmed. It is gathered at
a specified distance from the top edge to give a gracefully balanced proportion.

3)Double Ruffle: - is gathered in the center halfway between

the two finished edges. It is then topstitched through the
center to the garment section. Determining
length & piecing:- To determine length of fabric
needed for a ruffle, allow about three times the
finished length for a fully gathered ruffle, twice
the length for a ruffle that is slightly gathered. Straight ruffles are
usually cut on either the crosswise or the bias grain

Piecing of fabric strips is frequently necessary to achieve required

length. Seam strips with right sides together, making sure that the
sections match in pattern and direction of grain. Depending on the way ruffles are finished (edge) and
also the fabric, they are categorized into:-

Single layer ruffles are made from one layer of fabric and the edges finished with either a narrow
machine or a hand-rolled hem. The edges can be finished with decorative stitching, if appropriate to
design of finished garment. A Self-Faced ruffle is a single layer of fabric folded back on itself. It is used
when both sides of a ruffle will be visible, or to give added body to sheer or flimsy fabrics. It creates a
luxurious appearance wherever it is used.
FLOUNCES:- these are similar to fills and ruffles, but are much wider. GATHERING:- Gathering is the
process of drawing a given amount of fabric into a predetermined, smaller area, along one or several
stitching lines, to create soft, even folds. Fabric is usually gathered to one-half or one-third. The original
width; the effect may be soft and drapery or crisp and billowy, depending on the fabric. Gathering most
often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs, or yoke, or as ruffles. Gathering is done after construction
seams have been stitched, seam-finished, and pressed. Because gathers fall best on the lengthwise
grain, the rows of stitching should run across the grain. Stitch length for gathering is longer and tension
is looser than usual; it is advisable to pretest both on a scrap of your fabric. Suitable stitch length may
vary from 6 to 12 stitches per inch, shorter for sheer or light fabrics and longer for thick, heavy
materials. The shorter the stitch length, the more control you have over the gathers, no matter what the
fabric. In gathering, it is the bobbin thread that is pulled, and a looser upper tension makes it easier to
slide the fabric along the thread. For heavy fabrics or extensive gathering, use an extra-strength thread
in the bobbin. Care must be taken to see that the thread does not break while stitching.

METHODS OF GATHERING:-

a) Gathering by machine:- adjust the machine for long stitch and loosen the upper tension slightly. Now
work two rows of machine stitches ¼ inch apart as explained earlier. Distribute the fullness evenly by
putting both bobbin threads together. Ruffler attachment or gathering foot can be used to gather large
sections of fabric.

b) Gathering by hand:- fastern the thread securely and work two rows of running stitches ¼ inch apart.
Draw the ends of threads until the section measures the desired length, and secure the threads by
winding round a pin.

c) Gathering with elastic:- gathers can be made by stretching a narrow strip of elastic and stitching on
the part of the garment which is to be gathered. Gathers can be also obtained with the help of bobbin
elastic.

d) Gathering with casing and cord or casing and elastic:- gathers can be also obtained by working a
casing and passing cord or elastic of a shorter length serving the purpose.

SHIRRING:- Shirring is formed with multiple rows of gathering and is primarily a decorative way of
controlling fullness. In contrast to gathering, in which fullness is controlled
within a seam, the fullness in shirring is controlled over a comparatively
wide span. Lightweight fabrics are the most appropriate for shirring; they
may be either crisp or soft. Voiles, crepes and jerseys are excellent choices.
No-iron fabrics are good because it is difficult to press shirring without
flattening it. Your pattern should specify the areas to be shirred; these can
range from a small part, such as a cuff, to an entire garment section, such
as a bodice. Rows of shirring must be straight, parallel and equidistant.
They may be as close together as ¼ inch or as for apart as an inch or so,
depending on personal preference and pattern specifications. Width to be
shirred is determined by the pattern.

Staying a shirred area:- A shirred area needs a stay so that the garment is strengthened. When there is
strain over a shirred area the threads tend to break thus letting the fabric out. To stay a shirred section,
cut a strip of self-fabric 1” wider and deeper than shirring. Turn in raw edges ½ inch on all sides; pin in
place to the wrong side of shirred area. Hand-sew the stay in place with small, invisible stitches. A stay
will protect the shirred area from strain. When an entire bodice is shirred, the whole bodice has to be
secured by using a stay. The stay has to be cut exactly in the shape of the bodice with seam allowance.
Elasticized shirring:- this stretchy, flexible form of shirring hugs the body neatly, yet expands and
contracts comfortably with body movements. It is easily done by using elastic thread in the bobbin and
regular thread in the needle. Wind the elastic thread on the bobbin by hand, stretching it slightly, until
the bobbin is almost full. Set the machine to a 6-7 stitch length, and test the results on a scrap of your
fabric. Adjust stitch length and tension if necessary. Sometimes, to get the desired fullness, the bobbin
(elastic) thread must be pulled after stitching as in gathering. Mark the rows of shirring on the right side
of the garment. As you sew, hold the fabric taut and flat by stretching the fabric in previous rows to its
original size. To secure ends, draw the needle thread through to the underside and tie. Run a line of
machine stitching across all the knots or hold them with a narrow pin tuck at each end of the shirred
section.

Application:

Sew the following using the given guidelines ( Cloth samples to be made of the following:)

 1. Darts: Standard dart and fish dart [sample size: 6ʺ X 5ʺ for each dart]
 2. Pleats: Knife, box and inverted box pleats [finished sample size with a band: 4 ʺX 5ʺ]
 3.Tucks: Pin, wide, shell, corded and wide tucks with scalloped effect [sample size: 6ʺ X 6ʺ]
 4. Cross [sample size: 8ʺ X 8ʺ]
 5. Gathers: gathering by hand, machine, bobbin elastic, casing and elastic, casing and cord
[sample size: 6ʺ X 10ʺ]
 6. Shirring: machine and bobbin elastic [sample size: 6ʺ X 12ʺ]
 7. Ruffles: single, double, circular and ruffle with heading [finished sample size: 2 ½ ʺ X 5ʺ

Point system: see rubrics

W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well

Well done! Congratulate yourself. You have just finished Lesson 9 of this module. Now, if you are
ready, please proceed to Lesson 10, enjoy and go higher