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    Darts

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    Phoenix Griffith
    Darts are used in pattern drafting to shape garments to the body. The most common dart is seen at the bustline of women's blouses, shaping the fabric to the woman's curves. Darts can be straight, curved, or have one or two pointed ends. Different types of darts include straight tapered darts often used at the bustline, and double fish-eye darts used at the waistline. Darts can be manipulated by transferring the fullness to different positions on the pattern to create unique styling elements or a more fitted silhouette.

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    Darts

    Uploaded by

    Phoenix Griffith
    2K views13 pages
    Darts are used in pattern drafting to shape garments to the body. The most common dart is seen at the bustline of women's blouses, shaping the fabric to the woman's curves. Darts can be straight, curved, or have one or two pointed ends. Different types of darts include straight tapered darts often used at the bustline, and double fish-eye darts used at the waistline. Darts can be manipulated by transferring the fullness to different positions on the pattern to create unique styling elements or a more fitted silhouette.

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    Darts are used in pattern drafting to shape garments to the body. The most common dart is seen at the bustline of women's blouses, shaping the fabric to the woman's curves. Darts can be straight, curved, or have one or two pointed ends. Different types of darts include straight tapered darts often used at the bustline, and double fish-eye darts used at the waistline. Darts can be manipulated by transferring the fullness to different positions on the pattern to create unique styling elements or a more fitted silhouette.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    2K views13 pages

    Darts

    Uploaded by

    Phoenix Griffith
    Darts are used in pattern drafting to shape garments to the body. The most common dart is seen at the bustline of women's blouses, shaping the fabric to the woman's curves. Darts can be straight, curved, or have one or two pointed ends. Different types of darts include straight tapered darts often used at the bustline, and double fish-eye darts used at the waistline. Darts can be manipulated by transferring the fullness to different positions on the pattern to create unique styling elements or a more fitted silhouette.

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    of 13

    October 14

    Darts 2010
    Pattern drafting - Khala Hurdle
    Introduction
    When constructing garments it is essential that the fabric fits properly to the body. One
    technique that does this is the dart. A dart is usually two straight stitch lines that bring together
    a fold of fabric. However, some darts may have curves and can also have one or two pointed
    ends.

    The most common dart is the one often seen at the bustline of women’s blouses.
    This dart helps the fabric fit to the woman’s curves, so that the fabric does not look wrinkled or
    baggy. A dart may also be placed in the back of a shirt or blouse to take in fullness through the
    back or to shape the blouse to the shoulders. This dart is usually curved, in order to shape the
    garment properly. Darts are also used around the waistline to help a garment ‘hug’ the
    wearer’s curves. These darts usually have two points.

    Here is an example of how darts shape a garment.

    Straight Dart lines


    tapered
    darts
    Types of darts
    The straight tapered dart

    This dart is often used at the bustline of garments, when is it used here is is generally called the
    bustline dart. The dart is made by bringing the lines together, which creates a triangular fold on
    the wrong side of the fabric. The dart can then be pinned into place, and the sewer stitches
    the dart together, beginning at the widest part of the dart and going to the point. Care should
    be taken not to let the stitches or thread pucker, so the dart will be smooth on the outside.

    Double fish eye dart

    This dart is often used along the waist line of a garment. It allows the designer to add shaping
    to the garment where there is no fabric edge. It is formed by bringing the fabric together and
    sewing along one side of its diamond shape. if the curve of the dart is severe, the designer may
    also clip the dart at its widest point so it would sit properly.

    Straight Tapered Dart Double Fish-eye Dart


    Ironing darts
    A dart may either be pressed down and to one side, or the fold can be centered over the dart’s
    seam and the excess material flattened out and pressed, making two folds. How the dart is
    pressed will depend on the garment, fabric and fit. For a shoulder or back dart, the sewer will
    usually mark curved, rather than straight, lines, and will follow the same construction and
    sewing directions, always being careful to keep the seam straight and smooth. These darts are
    pressed toward the center front or back seam respectively. The bust dart may be pressed up or
    down according to the style of the garment. However when in the arm hole and underarm
    positions, it is best to iron them up, since this creates the appearance of a fuller bust.
    Dart manipulation
    When drafting patterns, a designer may want to transfer the fullness of the dart to a position
    that would add a unique element to the garment. To do this the new positioning of the dart
    must be decided and then the pattern should be cut in a straight line from that point to the
    bottom of the dart line. The pattern should then be folded on the already existing dart fullness
    of the pattern and stuck into place. The shape achieved is now the new pattern shape and the
    dart would be where there is a gap in the pattern. This method is called the slash and fold
    method. Over leaf are some examples of dart manipulations for the front and back close fitting
    bodice block pieces.

    Different styles achieved from bustline dart manipulation.

    Under arm Arm hole French Waist line Centre front Centre neck
    Centre front Centre neck
    This dart is transferred to the centre front of This dart is transferred to the center of the
    the garment. It would appear as a straight line neckline of the garment.
    across the garment. This may make interesting
    lines if used on a vertically striped fabric.
    Bustline dart manipulation
    Under arm dart Arm hole dart
    This dart has been transferred to the This dart has been transferred to the armhole.
    underarm. To add a fuller busted appearance To add a fuller busted appearance iron the
    iron the dart fullness up. dart fullness up.
    Waist French position
    This dart has been transferred to the waistline This dart manipulation moves the seam to a
    dart. This creates a seamless appearance on point below the arm hole dart point on the
    the upper parts of the garment. bodice block.
    Center shoulder
    This dart is not transferred at all, since the
    block already has the dart positioned in
    the centre of the shoulder.
    Different styles achieved from back dart manipulation.

    Centre back Neck point Shoulder point Armhole Low armhole


    Back dart manipulation
    Arm hole dart Under arm dart
    This dart has been transferred to the back This dart has been transferred to the
    armhole. underarm.
    Shoulder point Centre neck
    This dart has been transferred to the back This dart has been transferred to the
    armhole. underarm.

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