Lesson13 Clothing Construction

Lesson13
HEMS
Introduction
A hem is made by folding an edge of cloth back and fastening it in place either by hand stitching or
machine stitching. In garment construction it is usually the final step. The purpose of a hem is to
finish off the raw edge and to give a nice hang to the garment by adding weight and body
Learning Outcome;
At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

 Discuss different types of hem and its characteristics
 Perform hemming on garments constructed
Factors affecting the choice of the width of a hem:
The width of a hem used on a garment depends upon the following factors:-
1) Type of fabric - Generally wider hems are used for light fabrics.
2) Style and type of garment - For straight skirts and pleated skirts, usual hem width is about 2 to 2.5
inches and for circular skirts 1 to 1.5 inches.
3) Figure of the wearer - The hem width must look proportionate to the height of the wearer. For tall
figures hems should be made slightly wider.
4) Current fashion - At one time the fashion may be to use a wide hem and another time to use a
narrow hem, and all of us follow fashions to some extent.
Preparing the hem: To ensure that the finished hem will be at an even level all round when the
garment is worn, try on the garment and mark the hem line at a constant measured distance above
the floor using a hem marker or meter scale. After the hem is marked, remove the garment, turn the
hem to the wrong side along the markings and tack close to the fold. From the folded edge measure
the finished width of hem using a hem gauge or ruler. Add ¼ inch seam allowance if the raw edge is
to be turned and stitched. Now trim off the excess fabric.
TYPES OF HEMS:
The hem finish to be used on a garment depends mainly upon the weight, texture and ravelling
quality of the material and the use and style of the garment.
Some of the commonly used hems are listed below:
1) Turned and Stitched hem- This method is suitable for light weight fabrics. After the
hem is evened, the raw edge is turned under ¼ inch and machine stitched close to the
folded edge. Then the hem is stitched in place using hemming stitch or slip stitch.
2) Seam binding hem finish- The finish is used on woollens and other heavy fabrics
which become too bulky when turned under. It is also suitable for fabrics that
ravel. Prepare a bias strip of thin material. Fold under one edge and stitch it to the
hem edge. Now secure the other edge of the bias strip (folded under) to the
garment by slip stitching or hemming.
3) Catch stitched hem – This is used on woollen fabrics and on hems of lined
garments. The stitch protects the raw edge and holds the hem fairly firm. The hem is
evened and tacked in place leaving the raw edge unfinished. The hem is fixed to the
garment with catch stitches or herringbone stitches.
4) Narrow machine stitched hem – This is used on men’s

shirts. Stitch 1/8 inch from raw edge, turn under the
edge on line of stitching and then make a second fold of the same
width. Tack and stitch the hem in place.
5) Rolled or whipped hem – This is suitable for fine materials and is used to finish
the raw edges of ruffles, handkerchiefs and baby clothes. Roll the raw edge towards
you between the left thumb and forefinger to form a 1/16 inch roll. Roll one or two
inches at a time and hold the roll in place by working overcasting stitches. Work a
row of machining 1/8 inch from the raw edge before rolling, in the case of fabrics
that ravel easily.
6) Shell edge hem - This gives a decorative scalloped effect similar to shell tucks and
is suitable for thin fabrics. Make two turns of ¼ inch width as for a hem and tack.
Work 4 to 7 small running stitches tightly over the hem. Work another group of
running stitches and repeat the overhanding stitches to get the scalloped effect.
7) Hem for circular and flared skirts –In circular and flared skirts, the turned up edge of the hem is
fuller than the skirt at the point it is to be sewn. The fullness should be distributed evenly.
This can be done in the following ways:

a) Method 1 – Turn under the raw edge of the hem and stitch close to
the folded edge using a long machine stitch. Draw up the bobbin thread
every few inches so that small gathers are formed and the hem lies flat
to the garment with the fullness distributed evenly. Now place a damp
pressing cloth over the hem allowance and press with a hot iron to
shrink out the fullness and make it flat and smooth. Now fold up the
hem, tack in place and slip stitch it to the garment.
b) Method 2 – An alternative method is to fold in small

dart shaped pleats perpendicular to the edge of the hem at intervals. Several small
darts are better than few large ones. Darts should not be so large as to cause pointed
places in the hem.
Application:
Hems Cloth samples to be made of the following:
1. Stitched and turned hem,

2. Catch stitched hem, Seam binding hem finish,
3. Narrow machine stitched hem,
4. Rolled or whipped hem and Shell edged hem
[sample size: 4ʺ X 7ʺ]
Point system : See rubrics for hem sewing.
CLOSURE W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well CONGRATULATIONS! You have just finished this lesson.

Lesson13 Clothing Construction

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Lesson13

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

Factors affecting the choice of the width of a hem:

Some of the commonly used hems are listed below:

4) Narrow machine stitched hem – This is used on men’s

This can be done in the following ways:

b) Method 2 – An alternative method is to fold in small

Hems Cloth samples to be made of the following:

1. Stitched and turned hem,

Point system : See rubrics for hem sewing.

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