Páginas Desdeorchids202110
Páginas Desdeorchids202110
Páginas Desdeorchids202110
Part 4: Setting up your LED Bar Lights — How High, How Far Apart
and How Many You Need TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPH BY KELLY MCCRACKEN
THiS iS THe fourth in a five-part series of articles intended to be an introduction to growing orchids under artificial light. as
discussed in my previous article “an introduction to par, ppFD and Why You Should Forget Lumens,” artificial light can be
deceptively bright (or dim) to our eyes. as it turns out, light fixtures do not provide an even level of light coverage to all areas they
illuminate. This is not always a negative, as home growers tend to grow a hodgepodge of different plants, often with many
different lighting requirements. understanding these dimmer and brighter areas will allow you to make good use of the lighting
microclimates produced by your fixtures.
In this article, i will discuss how many lights you will need to properly illuminate a 4-foot (1.2-m) baker’s-rack- shelf growing
space, how high above your plants to place the lights, and how far apart the lights should be, all based on the kinds of plants you
want to grow.
For the purposes of this article, i looked at a bar LeD lights. Many of my customers use them, and they are very easy to set up
in a household environment. in particular, i tested the 4-foot (1.2-m), 42W Full- Spectrum V-Shape with reflector combo Light,
manufactured by Barrina. They have good specs; they are full spectrum, affordable, have a reflector, and are about the brightness
you would want to grow plants (i.e., they will not fry your houseplants like a cannabis grow light would). Barrina’s marketing
materials also included a handy lighting diagram showing ppFD at different distances from the light. This diagram can be viewed on
their website, https://barrina-led.com.
I had a few goals in mind when i started looking at these Barrina lights. First, i wanted to determine if the marketed ppFD was
accurate. Second, i wanted to map out the different brightness values produced by a single fixture. Lastly, i wanted to produce
clear graphs plotting the brightness values at different distances and with different orientations and quantities of lights.
The next example looks at two lights, 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart. at a distance of 8 inches (20.3 cm), this setup is not optimal,
because there is a fairly big dip in the middle. at a 12-inch (30.5- cm) distance, you have a wonderfully even light distribution in the
center and at the edges. at 115 |imol/m2/s (which is achieved at a distance of 12 inches [30.5 cm] from the fixture along the
middle), you can grow brighter- growing paphiopedilums, maybe enough for phragmipediums, some smaller dendrobiums or
miniature cattleyas. The light at the ends of the fixture would be enough for phalaenopsis, jewel orchids, Maudiae-type
paphiopedilums, but not much else.
To grow bright-light plants such as cattleyas, ascocenda-type vandas, standard vandas and brassavolas (totally doable under
artificial light), you will need to add a third light. The next example looks at just that.
at a distance of 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the fixture, we have the brightest light. Measuring around 275 p.mol/m 2/s, you can
grow brighter-light loving plants such as standard cattleyas, vandas and brassavolas. But we are again limited in the amount of
perpendicular space in which the light is brightest. at the edges, we get valúes of about 175 |imol/m 2/ s, plenty of light for
brighter-growing paphiopedilums, dendrobiums, miniature cattleyas, many angraecoids and oncidium-intergeneric hybrids. a
three- light setup is ideal if you are growing the brightest, but still not perfect.
i was still not happy with the lighting distribution. i wanted to see a flat line across the entire perpendicular space of the shelf.
The solution turned out to be tilting the bulbs slightly inward. Figure 6 shows the results of tilting the two outer bulbs at 20 and 30
degrees. The center bulb is pointing straight down. Finally, there is a flat, mostly even line across the entire perpendicular plane.
It should be noted that these distances are all measured from the top of your plant canopy, and not the distance from the
bottom of your shelf. a height of 8-12 inches (20.3-30.5 cm) above your plant canopy leaves plenty of room for spikes to grow but
might not be enough for those very tall-spike-growing
phragmipediums, paphiopedilums and the like.
— Kelly McCracken is the owner of High Desert Orchids in Albuquerque, New Mexico. She is an avid grower, breeder and seller
of orchids. Currently, she is growing in a 3,000-square-foot high bay warehouse space all under artificial light. Kelly also does orchid
society talks on lighting and other orchid-related topics. You can email her at kelly@ highdesertorchids.com, visit her website
highdesertorchids.com or follow her on Instagram at @hdorchids.