Miss Moppet’s mouse

FINISHED SIZE Between 9cm/ 3.5in long

YARN DK/sport weight, however to create the multi-layering of colour I used
groupings of the following shades of 4 ply and lace weight yarns, i.e two of three
strands at at time (the actual mixes are written within the pattern and the actual shade
written in parenthesis):
Yarns A - off-white mohair (Drops Kid-silk shade 01); B - gold 4-ply (Drops Alpaca
shade 2923); C - pink 4-ply (Drops Alpaca shade 3112); D - brown mohair (Drops
Kid-silk shade 15); E - beige mohair (Drops Kid-silk shade 01) F - white 4-ply
(Drops Alpaca shade 1101)
NEEDLES 2 x 2.50mm/ between US 1 & 2 needles
EXTRAS 4mm black toy/ amigurami eyes or tiny black beads, small amount toy filling

BODY
Beginning at the rear end and with yarns B & E (gold 4-ply and beige mohair)
cast on 4 sts
Row 1 Kfb, k to last st, kfb - 6sts
Row 2 P1, pfb, p to last 2 sts, pfb, p1 - 8sts
Row 3 Kfb, k to last st, kfb - 10sts
Row 4 P
HIND LEGS
Row 5 inc) Cast on 7 sts, k7, k2 tog, k3, m1, k to end - 17sts
Row 6 inc) Cast on 7 sts, p7, p2 tog, p to end - 23sts

Miss Moppet’s mouse Row 7 inc) K11, kfb, k to end - 24sts

Row 8 P
by Claire Garland
Row 9 dec) Cast off 3 sts, k8, m1, k to end - 22sts
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Row 10 dec) Cast off 3 sts p-wise, p to end - 19sts back onto the LH needle, turn the knitting = W+Tp (wrap and turn purl)
Row 11 dec) Skpo, k7, kfb, k to last 2 sts, k2 tog - 18sts Short row 3 K4, W+Tk
Row 12 dec) P1, p2 tog, p to last 3 sts, p2 tog, p1 - 16sts Short row 4 P3, W+Tp
THIGH Short row 5 K2, W+Tk
Row 13 dec) Cast off 3 sts, k4, m1, k to end - 14sts Short row 6 P9 to end
Row 14 dec) Cast off 3 sts p-wise, p across to end - 11sts
Row 15 inc) Cast on 3 sts, k8, kfb, k to end - 15sts Row 24 dec) Cast off 5sts, k6, skpo, k2, k2 tog, k to end - 17sts
Row 16 inc) Cast on 3 sts, p across to end - 18sts LEFT FORELEG
NOTE: The cast on cast off edges from the last 4 rows will be joined Row 25 inc) Cast on 7 sts, p7, p2 tog, p3, W+Tp - 23sts
at the making up stage to create the thigh seam ... cont working short rows to shape left ‘shoulder’ as foll:
Row 17 Skpo, k5, kfb, k2, kfb, k to last 2 sts, k2 tog Short row 2 K5, W+Tk
Row 18 P Short row 3 P4, W+Tp
Rows 19-20 Rep last 2 rows once Short row 4 K3, W+Tk
Cut yarn E (beige mohair), join on yarn D (brown mohair). Cont with 2 Short row 5 P2, W+Tp
strands (gold and brown) as foll: Short row 6 K9 to end
Rows 21-22 Rep last 2 rows once
RIGHT FORELEG Row 26 dec) Cast off 7sts p-wise, p6, p2 tog, p to end - 15sts
Row 23 inc) Cast on 7 sts, k7, k2 tog, k3, bring yarn to the front of the Row 27 dec) Skpo, k3, skpo, k1, k2 tog, k3, k2 tog - 11sts
work, slip next st purl-wise onto the RH needle, take working yarn to the Row 28 dec) P4, p3 tog, p to end - 9sts
back, slip the slipped stitch back onto the LH needle, turn the knitting = ... short rows to create the back of the head
W+Tk (wrap and turn knit) - 24sts Short row 1 K8, W+Tk
... cont working short rows to shape right ‘shoulder’ as foll: Short row 2 P7, W+Tp
Short row 2 P5, take yarn to the back of the work, slip next st purl-wise Short row 3 K6, W+Tk
onto the RH needle, bring working yarn to the front, slip the slipped stitch Short row 4 P5, W+Tp
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Short row 5 K4, W+Tk Rows 54-55 inc) Rep last 2 rows once - 12sts
Short row 6 P3, W+Tp INNER FORELEGS
Short row 7 K2, W+Tk Row 56 inc) Cast on 6 sts, k6, k2 tog, k to end - 17sts
Short row 8 P1, W+Tp Row 57 inc) Cast on 6 sts, p6, p2 tog, p to end - 22sts
Short row 9 K5 to end of row Row 58 dec) Cast off 6 sts, k2, skpo, k2 tog, k to end - 14sts
Row 59 dec) Cast off 6 sts p-wise, p to end - 8sts
Rows 29, 31, 33, 35 & 37 P BELLY
Row 30 inc) K3, kfb, k1, kfb, k to end - 11sts Rows 60-65 Work six rows st st
Row 32 Skpo, k2, kfb, k1, kfb, k2, k2 tog Row 66 Kfb, k1, skpo, k2 tog, k1, kfb
Row 34 dec) K4, k3 tog, k to end - 9sts Rows 67-71 Work five rows st st. Place marker (PM) at each end of the last
Row 36 dec) K3, k3 tog, k to end - 7sts row for Thigh Marker
Row 38 dec) K1, skpo, k1, k2 tog, k1 - 5sts Row 72 dec) K1, skpo, k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1 - 6sts
Row 39 dec) P1, p3 tog, p1 - 3sts Row 73 P
Cut brown and gold yarns, join on yarns A & F (white mohair and white 4-ply) Row 74 dec) K1, skpo, k2 tog, k1 - 4sts
CHIN Rows 75-77 Work three rows st st. Place marker (PM) at each end of the
Rows 40-41 Work two rows st st last row for Inner Thigh Marker
Row 42 inc) k1, kfb, k1 - 4sts Row 78 dec) Skpo, k2 tog - 2sts
Rows 43, 45, 47, 49 & 51 P Row 79 P
Row 44 inc) K1, kfb twice, k1 - 6sts TAIL
Row 46 inc) K2, kfb twice, k2 - 8sts Cut yarn F (white 4-ply), join on yarn C (pink 4 ply). With 2 strands (white
Row 48 inc) [K2, kfb] twice, k2 - 10sts mohair and pink) cont. to work i-cord for tail as foll: *K2 (in doing so you
Row 50 dec) K3, skpo, k2 tog, k to end - 8sts draw the working yarn across the back of the knitting) but do not turn the
Row 52 inc) Kfb, k to last st, kfb - 10sts work instead slip stitches on RH needle back onto the LH needle**, rep
Row 53 P from * to ** until the entire tail measures 9cm/ 3.5in long
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NOTE: I like to work over the yarn endings as I go to keep it neat and
the add strength to the tail
Last row dec) K2 tog, fasten off, secure the end then weave yarn end back
into the tail.

RIGHT INNER THIGH

RS facing, beginning at the Thigh Marker, with yarn F (white 4-ply) pick up
and knit 7 sts across to the colour change at the tail
Rows 1-4 Beg, with a p row, work four rows st st.
Row 5 dec) P2 tog, p to last 2 sts, p2 tog - 5sts
Rows 6-7 Work two rows st st.
Row 8 dec) Skpo, k3 - 4sts
Row 9 P.
Cast off.

LEFT INNER THIGH

RS facing, beginning at the colour change at the tail, with yarn F (white 4-ply)
pick up and knit 7 sts across to the Thigh Marker
Rows 1-4 Beg, with a p row, work four rows st st.
Row 5 dec) P2 tog, p to last 2 sts, p2 tog - 5sts
Rows 6-7 Work two rows st st.
Row 8 dec) K3, k2 tog - 4sts
Row 9 P.
Cast off.
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TO MAKE UP DO NOT TURN but cont. to work i-cord for feet as foll:
Before you begin, please note that there is quite a lot of ‘easing’ in the sections to RS facing, slip stitches on RH needle back onto the LH needle *K4 (in
fit the seams - if you’ve knitted my patterns before you will know this! doing so you draw the working yarn across the back of the knitting) but
I do this for a reason, for example: to create the shape of the rear leg I deliberately do not turn the work instead slip stitches on RH needle back onto the LH
knitted the inner leg slightly smaller - therefore it doesn’t match row for row you needle**, rep from * to ** twice
will have to ‘ease’ the outer rear leg over the inner rear leg to fit then you’ll have Cut yarn and thread end through the four ‘claw’ sts, thread through all
that lovely leg shape! four sts again, do not pull up to close the sts just secure the end and pass
it back through the foot i-cord. Join the other foreleg seam as foll:
NOTE: There is a key to the various body sections on pages 13, 14 & 15.
1. Press the knitting first but take care not to singe the knitting! 4. Working with one foreleg at a time, align the cast off and cast on
edges for inner and outer forelegs and mattress join for seam that
2. RS (knit-side) facing, working on one side at a time, match together then runs under the foreleg (i.e. E to F - Fig 1). Your yarn endings act as
join, by oversewing, the cast on and cast off edges for thigh (i.e. A to B/ stuffing.
green dotted line to yellow dotted line - Fig 1). Turn out to right side (Fig 3).
5. Working on one side at a time mattress sew to join head sides
3. Working with one foreleg at a time, align the cast on and cast off edges with chin from foreleg seam to nose. (i.e. G to H - Fig 4)
for inner and outer forelegs (i.e. C to D - Fig 2) (the row ends at the leg end Stuff your yarn endings into the head.
should meet ) and mattress join for seam that runs along the top of the
foreleg. You can now work the foreleg feet as foll: 6. Working with one rear leg at a time, match the inner thigh marker
from Row 77 (Fig 2) with the thigh seam that you created in Step 2.
FORELEG FEET align the cast on and cast off edges for inner and outer rear legs (i.e.
The foreleg feet sts are picked up along the row ends of each foreleg as foll: I to J - Figs 3 & 4) - the row ends at the leg end should meet - ease to
Working with one foot at a time, RS facing, with pink 4-ply, pick up and knit 4 sts fit and mattress join for seam that runs along the top of the rear leg.
along the row edge of the foreleg - that is 2 sts either side of the seam you created. You can now work the rear leg feet as foll:
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REAR LEG FEET RS facing, slip stitches on RH needle back onto the LH needle *K5 (in
The rear leg feet sts are picked up along the row ends of each rear leg as doing so you draw the working yarn across the back of the knitting) but
foll: do not turn the work instead slip stitches on RH needle back onto the
Right Foot LH needle**, rep from * to ** three times
RS facing, with pink 4-ply, pick up and knit 6 sts along the row edge of Row 7 dec) K3, k2 tog - 4sts
the rear leg Cut yarn and thread end through the four ‘claw’ sts, thread through all
Row 1 P four sts again, do not pull up to close the sts just secure the end and pass
Row 2 dec) Skpo, k4. DO NOT TURN but cont. to work i-cord for feet it back through the foot i-cord.
as foll:
RS facing, slip stitches on RH needle back onto the LH needle *K5 (in 8. Working on one side at a time mattress sew to join body sides to
doing so you draw the working yarn across the back of the knitting) but belly from under foreleg seam to thigh marker (Fig 5).
do not turn the work instead slip stitches on RH needle back onto the Stuff your yarn endings and a tiny amount of toy filling into the
LH needle**, rep from * to ** three times body.
Row 7 dec) Skpo, k3 - 4sts
Cut yarn and thread end through the four ‘claw’ sts, thread through all 9. Find the centre of the cast on edge that you began with at the
four sts again, do not pull up to close the sts just secure the end and pass beginning of the pattern (Fig 1).
it back through the foot i-cord. Match this point with the centre of the base of the tail, then with
WS facing and working on one side of the tail at a time, mattress
Left Foot sew to join along the seam that runs from the tail all along to the
RS facing, with pink 4-ply, pick up and knit 6 sts along the row edge of rear leg foot -
the rear leg NOTE: There is a lot of easing to fit here so take your time as you
Row 1 P join - it may be worth tacking it in place first.
Row 2 dec) K4, k2 tog. DO NOT TURN but cont. to work i-cord for Also, before you complete the seam on the second side complete
feet as foll: the stuffing into the body and rear legs.
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EARS make 2 alike Fig.2

Fig.1
With yarns C & E (pink 4-ply and beige mohair) cast on 8sts NOSE
Short row 1 K6, W+Tk
Short row 2 P4, W+Tp
Short row 3 K3, W+Tk F
C C
Short row 4 P2, W+Tp INNER-
C
Short row 5 K1, W+Tk F FORELEG
INNER THIGH
Short row 6 P3, W+Tp CHIN ROW ENDS
H MARKER
Short row 7 K7 to end of row NOSE
Cut yarn, pass end through the live stitches and pull up to gather, secure the HEAD
BACK G
gather and push the ear inside out so that the WS become the inside of the
D
ear - NOTE: it’s this ‘pulled up’ edge that is sewn onto the head.
Fig.3
E
10. Use the tail ends to join each ear onto the top of the head just after
A
the short row shaping for head back.

B
HEAD BACK
11. Glue the toy eyes in place or sew on tiny beads, referring to the THIGH-
SEAM
photographs for placement (Fig 6). CAST ON
D
EDGE REAR LEG I E
Work 2 sts in pink yarn for the nose. OUTER-
FORELEG

12. Pull the ‘heel’ back towards the rear end and work a couple of
stitches to secure the rear leg in position (Fig 6).
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Fig.4 THIGH- Fig.5

SEAM
G
H
CHIN

HEAD BACK
G
NOSE
TOP OF
H FORELEG
CHIN SEAM
UNDER FORELEG SEAM
BODY SIDE BELLY
ROW ENDS INNER THIGH INNER THIGH
MARKER MARKER

I
J

CENTRE OF THE
BASE OF THE TAIL Fig.6

Fig.7

HEEL
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YARN Yarns A - green mohair (Drops Kid-silk shade 18); B - green 4-ply (Drops Flora LEFT FRONT
shade 16) WS facing, rejoin both yarns to 5 sts for Left Front
NEEDLES 2 x 2.50mm/ between US 1 & 2 needles Row 1 inc) [P1, pfb] twice, p1 - 7sts
EXTRA 2 x short lengths pink embroidery silk or similar
Rows 2-5 Work four rows st st
Row 6 inc) K6, kfb, k across 8 back sts, kfb, k across 6 rem front sts - 24sts
GREEN JACKET Row 7 P
With both yarns held together, beg. at the hem and cast on 32 sts COLLAR Side 1
Rows 1-5 Beg. with a p row work five rows st st Short row 1 K11, W+Tk
Row 6 dec) K12, skpo, k4, k2 tog, k to end - 30sts Short row 2 P11
Rows 7 & 9 P Short row 3 K10, W+Tk
Row 8 dec) K12, skpo, k2, k2 tog, k to end - 28sts Short row 4 P10
Row 10 dec) K5, cast off next 5 sts, k7, cast off next 5 sts, k4 Row 8 K across
Side 2
RIGHT FRONT Short row 1 P11, W+Tp
Row 1 inc) [P1, pfb] twice, p1 - 7sts Short row 2 K11
Rows 2-5 Work four rows st st Short row 3 P10, W+Tp
Cut yarns Short row 4 K10
Cast off
BACK
WS facing, rejoin both yarns to 8 sts for Back SLEEVES make 2 alike
Rows 1-4 Work four rows st st (the back is intentionally shorter that the fronts) With green 4 ply beg. at top of the sleeve and cast on 12 sts
Cut yarns, slip sts onto RH needle Rows 1-2 Work two rows st st
Row 3 dec) Skpo, k to last 2 sts, k2 tog - 8sts
Rows 4-6 Work three rows st st. Cast off.
NOTES:
Cast on - I use cable cast on through out.

Mattress stitch - ‘how to’ resourses - there are many tutorials on

how to mattress stitch on YouTube - here’s an example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObuZwHlmDCI

Abbreviations
k = knit; k = purl; inc = increase; dec = decrease;
m1 = make one; foll = follows; k2 tog = knit two together;
rep = repeat; RH/LH = right hand/ left hand; RS/WS = right
side/ wrong side; st/ sts =stitch/ stitches; cont = continue;
skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch , pass slipped stitch over knit
stitch; kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch to increase by
one stitch; pfb = purl into front then into back of stitch to increase
by one stitch; beg = beginning; rem = remaining

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please feel free to email me:
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