Zipper:

 Zipper is a kind of fastening device.

 It is used for binding the edges of an opening of a garment .
 Sometimes it is used for decorative purpose also.

 Mostly used in bottoms .

Parts of a Zipper:

 Top & Bottom Stop

 Slider

 Puller / Pull Tab

 Element / Teeth

 Chain

 Tape

 Retainer Box

Insertion Pin & Box Pin

 Top & Bottom Stop: Prevents the loss of the slider.

 Slider: Joins or separates the elements.
 Puller: Slider movement is controlled by puller.
 Teeth: Joins or disjoins the zipper.
 Tape: Attaches the zipper with the fabric.

There are three types of zippers based on teeth materials –

1. Coil (Nylon) Zipper

2. Plastic/ Vislon Zipper

3. Metal Zipper

Coil (Nylon) Zipper:

 Teeth are made of polyester.
 Teeth form a coil when they are zipped.
 It is also known as nylon zipper.
2. Plastic/ Vislon Zipper:
 Molded plastic is used as teeth.
 Molded plastic chain is incredibly strong.
 Ideal for many medium and heavy weight garments

Metal Zipper:
 Individual pieces of metal molded into shape and set on the zipper tape as teeth.
 Metal zippers are made of –
• Brass
• Aluminum
• Nickel
• Zinc etc.
Classification Depending on Function:

1. Open End Zipper

2. Closed End Zipper

3. Zipper with double slider ( Tail to Tail)

4. Zipper with double slider (Head to Head)

5. Reversible Zipper

6. Hidden/Invisible Zipper

Classification Depending on Function:

1. Open End Zipper:

 Has separated ends.

 The ending part is joined by a box and pin mechanism.

Jackets and other outerwear's

2. Closed End Zipper:

 Non-separating.
 The bottom stop doesn't permit entire separation from the chain.
 Used for jeans, trousers, bags; boots etc.

 . Zipper with double slider ( Head to Head):

 . Zipper with two slider (Tail to Tail):

 Reversible Zipper:
 Puller can flip to either side of the zipper

 Used in reversible jackets.

 6. Hidden/Invisible Zipper:

 It is placed in the seam of two pieces of fabric.

 The zipper is not seen from outside of the garment.

 Only zipper slider & pull tab is visible from outside.

 Zipper Sizes:

 The number in a zipper’s title refer to the width of the chain. For example a #3 zipper will have
a chain that measures 3mm and a #5 zipper’s chain will measure 5mm.

 Example: #3, #4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #10 and onwards.

 #3 is smaller and #10 is bigger.

 Measurement of zipper:

 Zippers are always measured from top of top stop to bottom of bottom stop regardless of
zipper style.

 Firstly, we should zip up the zipper.

 Then we should measure from the bottom end of the bottom stop to the top end of the top
stop.

Types of sliders:

 Non-Lock slider: The pull-tab does not lock at any position on the body.

 Automatic slider: The zipper automatically locks when no force is placed on the tab-pull.

 Semi-automatic slider: When the pull-tab is lowered, it locks. When the pull-tab is raised, it
unlocks.

 Pin lock slider: Pins on the pull-tab lock the zipper.

Types of sliders:

 Non-Lock slider: The pull-tab does not lock at any position on the body.

 Automatic slider: The zipper automatically locks when no force is placed on the tab-pull.
 Semi-automatic slider: When the pull-tab is lowered, it locks. When the pull-tab is raised, it
unlocks.

 Pin lock slider: Pins on the pull-tab lock the zipper.

Types of Pull Tab:

 Thumb pull

 Tear Drop pull

 DA pull

 Ball/Chain pull

 Doughnut pull

 Long pull

 Short pull

 Ring Pull

Types of Pull Tab:

 Rubber pull

 Square drop pull

 Leather pull

 Decorative pull etc.

Types of Pull Tab:

 Rubber pull

 Square drop pull

 Leather pull

 Decorative pull etc.

Qualities of a good zipper:

 Tape color should be same or near about same to fabric color.

 Color fastness of tape color should be good.

 No staining or bleeding from zipper tape.

 Zipper should zip & unzip smoothly

Qualities of a good zipper:

 Slider should lock properly at proper place.
 Elasticity of zipper tape should be nearer to fabric.
 Strength of zipper should be same or higher than the fabric strength.
 Pull tab, slider & elements of zipper should be rust-free if they are made of metal.
Test of Zipper

 Color fastness to wash of zipper tape

 Color fastness to rubbing or crocking of zipper tape

 Color fastness to light of zipper tape

 Color fastness to perspiration of zipper tape

 Durability of zipper tape that means strength of zipper tape in crosswise direction

Test of Zipper

 Top stop holding strength

 Bottom stop holding strength

 Strength of zipper teeth (individual)

 Operability (up down)test

 Slider lock hold test

 Pull tab strength

Topics: Interlining & Lining

Interlining:
 Interlining is a trim that is used between two layers of fabrics in certain garment parts.
 It is attached by sewing or fusing action.
 Generally interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible.
 It is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose or blend fibers.
 Shrink resist finish, crease resist finish are applied on it for better performance.
Functions of Interlining:
 To reinforce garment parts.
 To make the garment parts lofty & insulated.
 To retain the shape of the garment part.
 To improve garment performance.
 To increase aesthetic value of the garment.
Types of Interlining:
1. There are three types of interlinings based on construction--
a) Woven Interning
b) Knitted Interlining
c) Non-Woven Interlining
2. There are two types of interlinings based on attachment method ---
a) Non Fusible/Sewn Interlining
b) Fusible Interlining
a) Non Fusible Interlining:
 It is fixed with the garment components by sewing machine.
 No adhesive is used.
 Only sewn parts are attached with the garment.

Clothing Materials & Store Management

Advantage
 To make flame retardant garments.
 Simple and easy technique.
 No elaborate machine is required.
 Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industry.

Disadvantages:
 Quality is not good.
 Not suitable for large production.
 Not available in market so we need to prepare it.
 More time required.
 High work load and labor cost.
) Fusible Interlining:
 It is fixed with the garment components with adhesive.
 Adhesive is present on one surface in dried form.
 Fusing machine or iron is used for attachment.
 Three factors are important during attachment---
• Temperature
• Pressure
• Time

Clothing Materials & Store Management

Advantages
 Appearance, shape and quality are same as others.
 Available in market.
 Cheap.
 Fusing time is less.
 Labor cost is low.
 Production is high.
 Overall performance is better than non fusible interlining.
 Easy technique and no need of especially skilled operator.
Disadvantages

 High temperature is required.

 Special care is needed during attaching interlining.

Interlinings are available in the market in following names -

 Non fusible woven interlining

 Fusible woven interlining

 Non fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining)

 Fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining

Classification of Fusible Interlining-
 Polyethylene coated interlining
 Polyamide coated interlining
 PVC coated interlining
 Polyester coated interlining
 Polypropylene coated interlining
 PVA coated interlining

Differences Between Fusible & Non Fusible Interlining

SL Non Fusible Interlining

Attached to the fabric by means of sewing.

2 No adhesive is required.

3 No temperature is required.

4 Processing time is more.

Not suitable for large production.

Fusible Interlining
Attached to the fabric by means of
fusing.

Adhesive is present on one surface.

High temperature is required.

Processing time is less.

Suitable for large scale production.

Fusing Processes:
There are four types of fusing processes ---
 Single Fusing
 Reverse Fusing
 Sandwich Fusing
 Double Fusing

Reverse Fusing:
During attachment, fabric is placed at upper side and interlining is kept below it
with adhesive surface touching the fabric.

Sandwich Fusing:
In this process two interlinings are attached in single operation. At first fabric is
placed on the table and interlining is placed at upper side of the fabric. Again
another interlining is placed at upper side of the previously placed interlining and
then another fabric. Two interlining resin must be in opposite direction.
Double Fusing:
This is the fusing of two pieces of interlinings to a single fabric in one operation.
Coating:
Coating is the process by which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured on to
the base cloth of interlining.
Types of Coating:
 Scatter Coating
 Dry dot coating
 Paste Coating
 Film Coating
 Emulsion Coating
Fusing Equipment

 Hand Iron

 Flat bed fusing press

 Continuous fusing press

 High frequency fusing press

 Hand Iron

 In this process interlining are fused by hand iron.

 It is very difficult to control the time, temperature and pressure by hand iron.

 As a result the bond make by fusing is not stable for long time.

 The bond between interlining and fabric may be displaced during washing of garments.

 It is a cheap process for fusing.

 Primary fusing of small parts of garments are done by hand fusing iron.

 In tailoring purpose it is mostly used

Flat Bed Fusing Press

 Generally this type of machine consists of two beds, one is static bed and another is
running bed.
  Static bed is buck and the running bed is called head.

 Buck surface is covered by a soft beddings such as fabrics which are lubricated by PTFE.
As a result it can removed melted resin, dirt or stain.

 Sometimes heat generating system is provided on the buck.

 At first, the part of garment which to be fused spread flatly on the buck and then
resinated interlining surface is placed on it.

 After that, the head is placed down on the buck by switching on and applied required
pressure and temperature smoothly.

 With completing the predetermined time of fusing, the head is descends from the buck.

 There are two systems are available of coming head and buck such as vertical action
and scissor action.

Quality Parameters of Fusing:

 Appearance

 Bond strength

 Proper fusing

 Shrinkage

 Fabric color

 Defects of Fusing

Name of Description Causes

Faults
Striking When the resin is passed Not proper
back through the lower part of pressure
of the fabric is called temperatu
striking back.
Striking When the resin is passed Not proper
through through the base fabric of pressure
of interlining during the temperatu
fusing is called striking
through.

Lining:
 Lining is generally a functional part of a garment, a trim.
 Sometimes it is called underlining.
 They are available in warp knit or woven structure. They are made from
cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose, wool etc.
 Lining material can be used for small parts e.g. pocket or for complete
garments.
 It can be used in coat, jacket , shorts, pants, kids wear etc.
Purposes of Lining

 To improve hang and comfort.

 To add insulation.

 To cover the inside of a garment of complicated construction to make it neat.

 To hide body from being observed in case of clear shell fabric.

To add value to garment

Difference Between Lining &

Interlining:
Subject Lining In
1. Placement Used inside of the garment or garment components that is next to skin. Used between two layers of fabric.

2. Attachment Attached by sewing. Attached either by sewing or by applying hea

3. Finishes Finishing is not necessary. Sometimes shrink resist finish or crease resi

4. Coating No coating is used. Coating is used on inside surface of fusible in

5. Purposes To increase hang and comfort of the garment. To support, reinforce & retain actual shape of

Fiber Used in Lining:

 Natural fibers are rarely used to construct linings due to high cost.
 Synthetic fibers are now the most widely used for garment lining.
 Woven fabrics (plain, twill and satin) and warp knit fabric are widely used
for lining.
Requirements of Lining Fabric

 Should not be cause any type of discomfort.

 Should have low cost.

 Surface of fabric should be smooth or plain.

 Strength of fabric should be same or higher than the upper fabric.

 Should not be causes any color bleeding.

 Yarn density in fabric should be very high.