MARKER PLANNING

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8.1 INTRODUCTION

Marker planning is arrangement of patterns in the fabric in an efficient

way to reduce the wastage as well to cut the fabric of desired measurement.
Marker planning is done based on the fabric width and the number of pieces
to be produced in each size set.

8.3 MARKER PLANNING

It is zig – zag puzzle in which the pattern pieces are arranged in the
fabric in an economical manner to meet technical requirements. Marker
planning can be done manually or using software.

8.4 MARKER UTILIZATION

It is the process of drawing the marker plan directly onto fabric or

drawing it onto a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter, or, where the
cutting method allows it, recording pattern piece information on the paper
marker or on the fabric without actually drawing pattern lines on it.

Fig. 8.1 Marker

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8.5 THE REQUIREMENTS OF MARKER PLANNING

The industry has always paid great attention to marker planning,

because the cutting room directly influences the company’s turnover. Any
reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment leads to increased profit.
Marker planning is a conceptualizing, intuitive, open and creative process, in
contrast to making up a jigsaw puzzle, which is an analytical, step-by-step and
closed process. There is no
final solution to a marker planning problem, only a more tightly packed and
therefore shorter marker the more time is spent on it.

The work of the marker planner is to consider the following factors.

❖ The nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment;

❖ The requirements of quality in cutting;

❖ The requirements of production planning

8.6 THE NATURE OF THE FABRIC AND THE DESIRED RESULT IN THE
FINISHED GARMENT

8.6.1 Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric

Pattern pieces normally carry a grain line. When pattern pieces are laid
down the piece of cloth, as is commonest with large pattern pieces, the grain
line should lie parallel to the line of the warp in a woven fabric or the Wales in
a knitted fabric. Where pattern pieces are laid across the piece, the grain line
should lie parallel to the weft or course direction. In bias cutting, which is often
used in large pattern pieces as part of the garment style in ladies dresses the
pattern pieces are kept at 45 degree. .

8.6.2 Symmetry and asymmetry

Many fabrics can be turned round (though 180o) and retain the same
appearance and these are designed ‘either way’ or ‘symmetrical’. They
require no special action on the part of the marker planner. More restricting
are fabrics known as ‘one way-either way’ or ‘asymmetrical’. In this case, if a

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fabric ply is turned round it does not retain the same appearance, especially
when the two opposite ways are sewn together.

Fig. 8.2 Pattern direction

Fig. 8.3
One way
prints

Fig. 8.4 Direction of Grain

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 Fig. 8.5 Ply Direction

8.6.3 The design characteristics of the finished garment

For example, if a vertical stripe does not show a complete mirror image
repeat, the right and left sides of a garment may be designed to be mirror
images of each other. In this case, a marker is planned which uses a half set
of patterns, and the required effect is created in the spreading of the fabric
which places pairs face to face.

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8.7 THE REQUIREMENTS OF QUALITY IN CUTTING

❖ For the majority of cutting situations where a knife blade is used, the
placements of the pattern pieces in the marker most give freedom of knife
movement and not restrict the path of the knife so that it leads to
inaccurate cutting. A blade, which has width has width cannot turn a
perfect right angle in the middle of a pattern piece and space must always
be allowed for a knife to turn such corners. Also, in practice, a curved part
of a pattern such as a sleeve head, when placed abutting a straight edge,
leads to either a shallow gouge in the straight edge or the crown of the
curve being straightened. The amount of space which must be left will
depend on the actual cutting method employed.

❖ Correct labeling of cut garment parts is essential if, in sorting and bundling
a multi-size lay after cutting, operators are to identify correctly the parts
which make up whole garment sizes. It is the responsibility of the marker
planner to code every pattern piece with its size as the marker is planned.

8.8 THE REQUIREMENTS OF PRODUCTION PLANNING

When an order is placed for a quality of garments, it normally specifies

a quantity of each size and colour, the former often given as a ratio. The
requirements of production planning and control will be to supply the sewing
room with an adequate amount of cut garments at sufficiently frequent
intervals, consistent with availability of fabric and the best utilization of cutting
room resources.

Among the latter considerations is that, for a given quantity of

garments, a high lay rather than a low lay gives a lower cutting labour cost per
garments. The higher lay will, of course, also be shorter, giving a lower overall
cutting time which is important if the sewing room requires the cut work
urgently. The shorter lay will also require a shorter marker.

8.9 EFFICIENCY OF THE MARKER PLAN

The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the

marker plan created.

A formula describes this:

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Area of patterns in the marker plan
------------------------------------------ X 100 %
Total area of the marker plan

Since the reduction in fabric cost is so important, the company expects

the planner to discover opportunities for improvements in marker efficiency by
suggesting alterations to patterns and cloth, the two elements brought
together in market planning. The first sort of opportunities is commonly
designated pattern engineering. Chief among these is an examination of
seam location to ensure the best possible placement of patterns in the
marker.

In one case the shift of a seam might allow the placement of small
parts in areas otherwise wasted, for instance in the armhole of a jacket or shirt
lying next to the edge of a marker. In another case the seam is moved to
enable the better placement of large panels across the whole width of the
fabric. The second sort of opportunity arises in the influence the marker
planners has on the selection of fabric widths where a choice is available.

The ‘best’ width depends among other factors on the costs of various
fabric widths per square meter, the typical number of sizes in a marker, the
potential pattern engineering changes at various widths and the marker
efficiency of a series of test markers.

8.10 METHODS OF MARKER PLANNING AND MARKER

The methods of marker are basically classified in to two categories.

▪ Manual marker

▪ Computerized marker

8.10.1 MANUAL MARKER PLANNING WITH FULL SIZE PATTERNS

Prior to the development of computerized marker planning systems, all

markers were planned by working with full size patterns. For many companies
in the industry this method is still used, because the more modern alternatives
are expensive, and because these companies make only short or single size
markers and the planner can see the whole of the plan relatively easily. The
planner words by moving around the full size patterns until a satisfactory plan
is obtained.

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 In a few clothing companies this planning is done directly on the fabric
to be cut and the pattern shapes marked in immediately. This can only be
done when the length of the marker is predictable and in marking directly onto
fabric, the necessary accurate reproduction of the pattern and good definition
of line can be difficult to achieve.

Patterns are usually made from card and it is important that the edges
do not become worn and that the pattern is held firmly while drawing takes
place. Various chalk or wax materials can be used to draw with but whatever
is used needs to be easily held and readily sharpened. The quality of the line
also depends on the surface nature of the fabric.

This method takes considerable skill to achieve accuracy and it takes

considerable time, but it is economical for single garments and also for check
fabric since it allows the patterns to be manipulated during the marking
process. In many companies, more than one lay is cut using the same marker
plan. If the plan is drawn directly onto the fabric, this process of drawing round
the patterns has to be repeated for each lay.

It is much more common for a paper marker to be used for cutting and
in this case the pattern lines and style and size information are usually drawn
on spot and cross paper to ensure adherence to grain lines. It is still essential
that patterns do not become worn but a satisfactorily fine line is easier to
achieve than when marking directly onto fabric as a pencil or a ballpoint pen
can be used. Again, multiple copies of the paper marker are normally needed.

These copies can either be made when the marker plan is first drawn,
or the master marker can be reproduced as needed by a variety of methods.

8.10.1.2 MARKER DUPLICATING

Again, multiple copies of the paper marker are normally needed. These
copies can either be made when the marker plan is first drawn, or the master
marker can be reproduced as needed by a variety of methods.
There are different duplicating systems are available.

a) Carbon duplicating:

b) Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system

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c) Diazo photographic method:

d) Perforator marker

(a) Carbon duplicating

For copies to be made as the original is drawn, and where small

numbers of copies only are needed, use can be made of carbon paper,
usually double-sided, or the same effect can be achieved with special
NCR-type (no carbon required) paper. In either case, 6-8 copies can be made
without too great a deterioration in the fineness of the line.

(b) Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system

In this process, the master marker is drawn on paper with a layer of

special hectograph paper underneath it. This paper transfers a blue line onto
the back of the master as it is drawn. The master is then used to make one
copy at a time in a duplicating machine. The machine uses alcohol to wet a
plain white paper which is then passed with the master between two rollers,
transferring the lines onto the copy. It is a messy process but many copies
can be produced.

(c) Diazo photographic method

This process makes as many copies of the marker as are needed, one
at a time, following the drawing of a master marker. The master marker and a
light-sensitive paper are passed under high intensity ultraviolet light and the
light-sensitive paper is developed using ammonia vapour. The lines remain
visible. It is a clean process which can make unlimited numbers of copies with
good definition but it must be used with ample ventilation to remove ammonia
fumes. The paper is expensive but the equipment is comparatively cheap.

(d) Perforator marker

An alteration method of paper marker is perforator marker from the
initial hand-drawn version by means of a punch perforator. This has been
used in the clothing industry but is more commonly used for cutting upholstery
fabrics.

8.10.2 COMPUTERIZED MARKER PLANNING

This method is normally part of an integrated system which includes

digitizing or scanning of full-size patterns into the computer, facilities for

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pattern adaptation, and, by inputting appropriate grade rules, the means to
generate all the sizes required. The planner uses a visual display unit with
keyboard, tablet and data pen, puck or mouse. The planner specifies the
exact make-up of the marker plan: the width of the fabric, the pattern pieces to
be used, the sizes to be included and all constraints to be applied, including
any matching of checks. The system produces a marker plan automatically or
interactively.

Automatic marker planning involves calling up data defining the

placement of pieces in markers previously planned, and selecting from a
series, that marker conformation which gives the highest marker efficiency.
Interactive marker planning is more common and is the process by which the
operator plans markers by interacting directly with the system through a VDU
screen. All the pattern pieces are displayed in miniature at the top of the
screen. In the middle of the screen they are two horizontal lines defining the
marker width and a vertical line at the left representing the beginning of the
marker. The right end is for the moment open. At the bottom of the screen is
written the identification, with marker length and efficiency constantly updated
during the planning process.

A data pen (or puck or mouse), tablet and the computer keyboard are
used to manipulate the pattern pieces. A combination of movements of the
pen and commands via the keyboard enable pattern pieces to be moved
about the screen and positioned in the marker. The system finally positions
the pattern pieces precisely according to the marking rules specified. After
selecting the most economical marker plan devised in the rime available, the
computer will provide an accurate piece count, calculate a marker plan
efficiency percentage and total the length of the pattern peripheries. When the
marker plan is complete, it will be stored in a marker plan file for future
retrieval.

The quality of marker planning is more consistent than with manual

methods, because instructions regarding grain lines are always followed,
because the butting of pattern piece is precise with no overlapping, and the
pattern count is automatic, a boon in complex markers. It is difficult to
compare the capital cost of the computer system used in marker planning with
the other methods described previously because in all cases the computer
system provides a pattern development and grading facility as well. It also
enables the reproduction of as many copies of a marker as are required
without restoring to additional methods of reproduction such as the manual
methods require.

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 However, the fact that the cost of such a package of computer
equipment us many times that of a manual marker planning. After planning
the marker on the computer, the marker planner instructs the computer to plot
the marker automatically onto paper. As an alternative to plotting even this
amount of information on a marker, it is possible, when cutting will be by
computer-controlled knife, not to plot any of the marker but to attach adhesive
labels to the top ply of fabric to give the information necessary to section
garment parts into bundles. This saves both the time of plotting and the cost
of plotter and paper.

8.11 SUMMARY

Marker planning is the major area where the economic

consumption of the fabric is planed. Marker planning which is prepared can be
transferred to the fabric surface to facilitate the cutting process. Here various
methods for the duplication of the marker planning are discussed in detail.
The duplication method is selected based on the availability of resources. To
generate the marker planning in a very easier way and to have economical
production computerized marker planning is employed. Various software used
for generation of marker planning and it allows for manual modifications also.
The common software used are TUKA, Lectra, Gerber. Computerised
markers can be linked to computerised cutting systems and the cutting can be
carried out easily.

8.12 KEY WORDS

Marker planning - It is zig – zag puzzle in which the pattern pieces are
arranged in the fabric in an economical manner to meet technical
requirements.

Bias Cutting - In bias cutting, which is often used in large pattern pieces as
part of the garment style in ladies dresses the pattern pieces are kept at 45
degree. .

Marker Efficiency

Area of patterns in the marker plan

------------------------------------------ X 100 %

Total area of the marker plan

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8.13 ANSWERS FOR CHECK YOUR PROGRESS

1. It is zig – zag puzzle in which the pattern pieces are arranged in the
fabric in an economical manner to meet technical requirements.

2. It is the process of drawing the marker plan directly onto fabric or

drawing it onto a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter

3. Manual and computerized marker planning.

4. The requirements of production planning the nature of the fabric and

the requirements of quality in cutting

5. Face side of the ply face the operator

6. Face up lay is suitable for unidirectional prints.

7. Lengthwise grain and crosswise grain.

Area of patterns in the marker plan

8. ------------------------------------------ X 100 %

Total area of the marker plan

9. Multiple copies of the paper marker are normally needed and the
process of preparing this is known as duplicating.

10. Carbon duplicating, Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system,

Diazo photographic method and Perforator marker

8.14 TERMINAL QUESTIONS

Part A

1. What is marker planning?

2. What are the advantages of computerized marker planning?
3. What is face to face lay?
4. How are plies arranged in spreading?
5. What is step lay?

Part B

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 1. List the types of duplicating.
2. Write the importance of marker planning.
3. Write the need for computerized marker planning.
4. Write short notes on duplication of markers.
5. What are the factors to be considered for marker planning?

Part C

1. Write in detail about the requirements of marker planning.

2. Explain in detail about marker duplication techniques.
3. Compare the advantages and disadvantages of manual and
computerized marker planning.

4. Explain in detail about computerized marker planning.

8.15 FURTHER READING

1. Harold Carr& Barbara Latham,“ The Technology of Clothing

Manufacture”, Om Book Service, 1994.

2. Jacob Solinger, “Apparel Manufacturing Handbook”, Reinhold

Publications, 1998.

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