Introduction

Kashi Yatra- A pilgrimage to the holy city of Kashi, or Varanasi, as it is

known today, is the dream of every devout Hindu.

There are many interpretations of the term ‘Kashi Yatra’. To some, it

simply means a visit to the holy city to bathe in the holy Ganges, have
darshan of Lord Vishwanath, and perform the sacred rites to one’s
ancestors to satisfy them. 

To most South Indians, the Kashi Yatra starts with a trip to

Rameswaram, where one collects the sand at either Rameswaram, or
more particularly, Dhanushkodi. This sand is then carried all the way to
Kashi, or, if possible, the Triveni Sangam at Allahabad, and immersed at
the confluence of the 3 holiest rivers- Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati.
From here, water is collected, and after performing all the rites and pujas
at Kashi, carried back to Rameswaram, and used to perform
Abhishekam to the Lord there.

For north Indians, the trip, for obvious geographical reasons, is the

opposite. They start the Yatra at Kashi, and bring the holy water to
Rameswaram, from where they take the sand back for immersion in the
Ganga.

We are South Indians, hailing from Ramanathapuram, and have been

fortunate enough to have visited the holy temple at Rameswaram a
number of times. On one of our trips, my in-laws brought back the holy
sand on which lord Rama would have stepped ages ago. They had kept
the sand carefully for a number of years, hoping to make the trip to Kashi
at least once in their lifetime, and satisfy our forefathers. Fortune has
finally smiled on us, and we have just returned from Kashi.

Though we took the train to Varanasi, the first place we visited was
Allahabad, where we made a Shiva lingam with the sand from
Rameswaram, performed the appropriate pujas, and finally immersed it
in the Triveni Sangam. We have returned with the holy water from the
confluence, and are waiting for the next trip to our home town and
Rameswaram, so that we can complete our Kashi Yatra successfully.

Kashi is such an ancient city, with a culture and history unparalleled by

any other, that one article is not enough to describe it. There is so much
to see and so many places and temples to visit both in and around
Kashi, that I am starting this new blog to do justice to it.
 Kashi Yatra

Varanasi, Kashi, Benares - No matter what name you call it by, this is
one of the oldest and the holiest cities in India. Most devout Indians have
a dream of making the pilgrimage to Kashi, known as the Kashi Yatra, at
least once in their lifetime.

Kashi has many attractions for the spiritually as well as historically

inclined. 

This is where rituals are performed for the propitiation of departed

souls. Traditionally, rituals for one's forefathers are performed at all
riverbanks, since rivers are considered especially sacred. Among them,
the Ganga is the most revered, and thus, performance of these rituals on
the banks of the Ganges at Kashi takes on an entirely new significance.  

This is not all, for such a ritual - centric pilgrimage involves

performance of the rituals also at two other places - Gaya , which is the
holiest of all places, which has gained fame since this is where the
Buddha attained enlightenment, and also at the Prayag, Allahabad,
where the three holiest of India's rivers meet  - the Ganga, Yamuna and
Saraswati.

The Kashi Yatra also refers to another pilgrimage - a completely

spiritual one, involving two sacred places, both ancient, both abodes of
Shiva, and considered to be among the most important of
the Jyotirlingas - Lord Vishwanath at Kashi and Lord Rameshwar at
Rameshwaram. 

For those of us who hail from the south, this pilgrimage begins at

Dhanushkodi, the southern tip of India, which is just off Rameshwaram.
We collect sand from this holy place and carry it to Kashi, where it is
used to make a lingam and prayed to, at the confluence at Prayag,
before being immersed in the water. We then worship Lord Vishwanath
and return home with pots of the holy water from the Ganga. We then
return to Rameshwaram, where we bathe Lord Rameshwar with the
sacred Ganga water from Kashi, thus completing the Kashi Yatra.

North Indians, for obviously geographic reasons, complete the same

cycle, but in reverse. They first visit Kashi and collect Ganges water,
then visit Rameshwaram to do the Abhishek to the deity. They too collect
sand from Dhanushkodi, and immerse it at Allahabad on their return. An
interesting insight into the complex Indian customs, wouldn't you say?

Being one of the oldest and holiest Indian cities, there are innumerable
temples at Kashi - and each one of them has something interesting to
tell you about India and her customs.

But wait, Kashi is not only about temples. There is a lot more to see and
enjoy - You can visit the beautiful fort at Ramnagar, take a wonderful
boat ride down the Ganges, visit the Buddhist stupa at Sarnath, and buy
some of the most beautiful sarees named after the city itself!

When I started writing down my experiences in this city, I realised that

there was so much here, and we knew so little about it, which is why I
made a separate blog for those who would like to visit this place too......
Unless I visit the city again, there is very less likelihood of my adding to
this blog. But you can get all the information you want by clicking on the
various links below....

How to reach? Where to Stay?

 Important Temples

 The Kashi Vishwanath Temple

 The Annapurna Temple
 The Temple circuit
 Other Ancient Temples

Other Places of Interest in Varanasi

 Saints of Varanasi
 The Ganga - Then and Now
 A Boat ride down the Ganges - The Ghats
 The Ramnagar Fort and Palace

Excursions

 Sarnath
 Allahabad - The Sangam at Prayag
 Ayodhya - The land of Rama
 Gaya -Part 1 - The Vishnu Padam
 Gaya Part 2 - Bodh Gaya

For those interested in performing rituals...

Vedic Rites to be performed during the Kashi Yatra

Finally, based on the request of some of you who have visited the blog
and given me your suggestions, I am including an option for you to
download the entire blog as en eBook. This is for the convenience of
those who do not have the time to go through all the posts online. They
can download the book and read it at their leisure. But more importantly,
this is for our parents and grandparents, who are not comfortable with
computers and prefer to read the printed word. Many of my relatives
have asked me for a printable version, so here is the Kashi Yatra eBook,
free for you to download....
 Vedic Rites to be performed during the Kashi Yatra
The purpose of a Kashi Yatra for most people is the performance of
Vedic rites for their ancestors, and it was the same for us. My in-laws
were performing all the rites, and we had nothing much to do. In fact, we
weren’t allowed to accompany them to Gaya at all, as it is apparently
considered inauspicious for those whose parents were alive to see the
Akshaya Vatam and the Vishnu Padam. However, my curiosity about the
rituals made me ask a number of questions which were thankfully
answered in detail by two young people- the manager of the Kanchi
Math at Kashi and the vadhyar or pundit who officiated at our rites. Both
of them were extremely helpful, and it is entirely thanks to them that I
have been able to write in such detail about Kashi as well as the
surrounding places, even those we did not visit. At my request, I was
given this list of the rites that are traditionally performed during a Kashi
Yatra. I share this with all my readers in the hope that it may be of some
use to them too. I have provided contact numbers of some people there
who will be able to arrange everything for anyone who desires to perform
these rituals.

The Vedic rituals are begun at Allahabad. The rituals (even the more
extensive ones) take about half a day (early morning to lunch), so those
who wish can take in some sigh seeing at Allahabad before moving on to
Kashi.

Allahabad (Triveni Sangam) (Day 1)

1. Anugnai (Sankalpam)
2. Vighneshwara Puja (Prayers to Ganesha)
3. Prayschitta Sankalpam (atonement for sins committed, knowingly
or unknowingly)
4. Veni Daanam (Women offer a part of their hair to the river praying
for the long life of their husbands. The husband plaits the wife’s hair,
decorates it with flowers and cuts off the tip of the plait and offers it to
the river. It is an interesting fact that while hair normally floats on water,
at the Sangam; it immediately sinks to the river bed. Though almost all
married women offer their hair here, there is not a single strand found
floating on the river!!!!)
5. Triveni Sangam Snanam (husband and wife bathe together at the
confluence of the 3 rivers, holding hands. One has to go to the
confluence in a boat. A sort of platform has been erected at the point for
the convenience of pilgrims)
6. Hiranya Shrardham *
7. Pinda Pradaanam, Kshetra Pindam, Tarpanam **

The rituals at Kashi take place over two days – the first day for the
Manikarnika Shrardham and the second day for the Pancha Teertha
Shrardham. Then, one goes to Gaya and performs the rituals there, and
returns to Kashi for the Ganga Puja, Dampati Puja and only then visits
the temples at Kashi.

Kashi (Varanasi)

Day 2

1. Anugnai (Sankalpam)
2. Vighneshwara Puja (Prayers to Ganesha
3. Poorvanga Godaanam ***
4. Poorvanga Dasa Daanam ***
5. Naandhi Shrardham *
6. Vaishnava Shrardham *
7. Punyaa Vajanam (purification ritual)
8. Maha Sankalpam
9. Prayschitta Sankalpam (atonement for sins committed, knowingly
or unknowingly)
10. Pala Daanam ***
11. Uttaranga Godaanam ***
12. Manikarnika Teertha Shrardham (Anna roopam / Hiranya
roopam)
 Day 3

13. Pancha Teertha Yatra (One has to go in a boat to these 5 Ghats

and perform the rituals)
i) Asi Ghat (Haridwar Teertham) – this is where the Asi river merges
with the Ganga. Performing the rites here is believed to give one the
fruits of performing the rites at Haridwar.
ii) Dashashwamedha Ghat (Rudra Sarovara Teertham) – this is the
place where Brahma performed 10 Ashwamedha Yagnas, and hence it
is considered sacred to perform the rites.
iii) Trilochana Ghat ( Vishnu Paada Udaka Teertham)
iv) Pancha Ganga Ghat ( Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Kirana,
Doodhapappa- Sangam); Bindu Madhava Temple
v) Manikarnika Ghat (Manikarnika Teertham, Chakra Pushkarni
Teertham)

Day 5

14. Ganga Puja (it is a tradition to bring back small sealed containers

of water from the Ganges and distribute it among our near and dear
ones. One container is kept at home as it is considered sacred and one
is taken to Rameswaram where it is used to perform Abhishekam to the
lingam. All these containers are kept and prayed to before they are
distributed.)
15. Dampati Puja (Prayers offered to an elderly married couple,
invoking them as Vishwanath and Annapurna)
16. Uttaranga Dasa Daanam ***
17. Kala Bhairava Samaradhana (invocation and prayers to Kala
Bhairav)

It is advisable to make a day trip to Gaya from Varanasi. The journey

takes about 3 hours, and the roads are extremely good. The general
practice is to take a car to Gaya on the evening of the Pancha Teertha
Shrardham at Kashi and stay overnight at the Mutt at Gaya. The rituals
at Gaya are completed by lunchtime, and one can return to Kashi by
evening.

Gaya Shrardham (Day 4)

1. Palguni (Falguni) Teertha Hiranya Shrardham (this is the
traditional Shrardham performed on the banks of any sacred river, here
the Falguni.)
2. Vishnu Paada Hiranya Shrardham †
3. Akshaya Vata Anna/Hiranya Shrardham †
4. Akshaya Vata Pinda Pradaanam ** †
5. Ask Gaya Brahmans if they are satisfied (according to legend,
the Brahmins at Gaya are not easily satisfied and it is a tradition to ask
them anyway in an attempt to satisfy them)
Acharya sambhavana (payment of the fees to the pundit)

Explanations:

* Shrardham or performing the Vedic rites to appease one’s forefathers

is of two types- Anna roopam and Hiranya roopam. Anna Shrardham is
where a certain number of Brahmins are invited, and are fed at the
completion of the rituals. This is considered equivalent to feeding one’s
ancestors. However, this is quite tedious, and sometimes expensive.
Hence the second option, Hiranya Shrardham, where the Brahmins are
fed only symbolically. This is a quicker and cheaper alternative to the
same rituals. At places like Kashi the pundits offer us the option of
choosing which kind of ritual we would like to perform, depending on our
time and budget.
Naandhi and Vaishnava Shrardham refer to the rites for appeasement
of one’s ancestors and the Gods, respectively.

** Pinda pradaanam is the ritual of offering food to three (in case of

Gaya, more than that) generations of our ancestors. Balls of cooked rice
and Til (sesame seeds), which are thus offered are called the pindams.

*** Daanam - Strictly meaning Charity, Daanam refers to the procedure

of donating things to the Brahmins in the name of our ancestors. There
is a long list of things that need to be given, starting from simple things
like umbrellas, fans, and mats to more expensive things made of silver
and gold. Among the more auspicious ones is the donation of a cow
(Godaanam) and land, both of which are usually done in symbolic
terms. Poorvanga and Uttaranga Daanam refer to the things needed to
be given at the beginning and end of the rituals respectively, while Dasa
Daanam refers to a set of 10 things that need to be donated.

† The Akshaya Vata and the Vishnu Pada are the only two places
where one can perform the Vedic rites not only for our forefathers, but
 for anyone, family, friends, acquaintances, whatever caste, religion or
community they may belong to… and also for animals, our pets,
abandoned bodies, etc.. This is the uniqueness of Gaya which draws
thousands of people from all parts of India.

For Performing Vedic Rites, Contact -----

Kanchi Mutt, Hanuman Ghat:

Contact Person: Mr. Mani

 (0542) 2277915
 (0542) 2277632

Guru Vadhyar (Pundit) :

 (0542) 2277921
 09839603602

Gaya -Part I - The Vishnu Padam and Akshaya Vatam

Gaya is a holy place revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike. While
to Hindus, it is the footprint of Vishnu (the Vishnu Padam), the Akshaya
Vatam and the chance of performing the Vedic rites not just for 3
generations of ancestors, but anyone and everyone that attracts them to
Gaya, for Buddhists it is the sacred Banyan tree under which the
Buddha attained enlightenment. Indeed the regular influx of Buddhists
from all over the world has made Bodh Gaya a tourist spot in Bihar, and
a tourist attraction with all kind of facilities, something like an oasis in the
heart of a desert!
At the outset, I must mention that I will be giving only information and
relevant details in this article. I will not be able to describe the places in
detail, as I usually do, because this is one trip I wasn’t able to make. It is
a belief in our community that those whose parents are alive shouldn’t
visit the Vishnu Padam or the Akshaya Vatam, and my in-laws, who
believe in these rules very strongly, went alone to Gaya to perform the
rites, leaving us at Kashi. Hence, I have the details that I am now sharing
with all of you. For a more detailed article, you will have to wait till I visit
these places myself. Meanwhile read on and make a list of the places to
visit, and let’s hope we all get to visit Gaya sometime.

Gaya is all about legends, and there are legends connected to

every temple there and every rite that is performed.

The Vishnu Padam and the Legend of Gayasuran

The Vishnu Padam at Gaya

Let me start with the name of the place. 'Gaya'. According to the legend,
there was once an Asura named Gayasuran, who was a great devotee
of Vishnu. When the Devas couldn’t bear the trouble he caused any
more, they went to Vishnu and asked for a way out. Vishnu approached
Gayasuran and told him that He wanted to perform a special yagna, and
wanted a special place to perform it. Gayasuran offered his heart, and
Vishnu accepted. The yagna began, and soon, the fumes and the heat
became unbearable, and Gayasuran started succumbing to it. Vishnu
asked him for his final wish, and Gayasuran asked that the place he died
would be immortalized by his name, and hence the name ‘Gaya’.
Second, he asked that people should be allowed to perform the sacred
rites (Pinda pradaanam) not only for their ancestors, but for anyone-
family, distant relatives, friends and foes, non-Hindus, pets, unclaimed
bodies- in short, for any dead human/creature they could think of. This
remains the only place where Pinda pradaanam is carried out in this
manner. In fact, I am told that in a normal Shrardham, 3 pindams are
made (one for each generation which ahs passed on); in a Teertha
Shrardham , as at Kashi, Allahabad, Rameswaram, etc., 16 pindams are
offered, including all ancestors on both parents side; in the Gaya
Shrardham, 64 pindams are offered, of which 32 are for the mother
alone, since she carries her child for 9 whole months within her body, 16
for the ancestors, and 16 for all others as I have mentioned earlier. Of
course, all this is a matter of faith and belief, but what is there in life if we
don’t have faith? Anyway, once Vishnu granted his wishes, he stepped
on him with his foot, leaving a footprint at this holy place, and granting
liberation to Gayasuran. It is this footprint which is worshipped as the
Vishnu Padam. For the information of devotees, I must mention that for a
fee of Rs.50/- an imprint of the Padam is taken on a muslin cloth and
given. This is to be kept in the Puja room and is considered very
auspicious.

Falguni River and the Legend of Sita

The Akshaya Vatam

The next legend concerns the Falguni (or Falgu) river. There is never
much water in the river at Gaya, though apparently, there is water
upstream as well as downstream. It is clear that there is water under the
ground, because, even as one digs into the ground with ones fingers,
water appears. This is apparently because of a curse on the river. The
story goes that Rama, along with his brothers and Sita, came to Gaya to
perform the sacred rites for his father, Dasaratha. When the brothers
were bathing in the river, Sita was sitting on the banks, playing with the
sand. Suddenly, Dasaratha appeared out of the sand, and asked for the
Pindam, saying he was hungry. Sita asked him to wait till his sons
returned, so that she could give him the traditional Pindam of rice and til.
He refused to wait, asking her to give him pindams made of the sand in
her hand. Having no other option, she gave him the Pindam he desired
with five witnesses – the Akshaya Vatam, the Falguni River, a cow, a
Tulsi plant and a Brahmin. Soon, Rama returned and started the rituals.
In those days apparently, the ancestors would arrive in person to collect
their share, and when Dasaratha did not appear, they wondered why.
Sita then told them what had happened, but Rama could not believe that
his father would accept pindams made of sand. Sita now mentioned her
witnesses, and asked them to tell Rama the truth. Among the five, only
the Akshaya Vatam took her side and told the truth, while the others lied,
trying to take Rama’s side. In her anger, Sita cursed all of them thus: the
Falguni river henceforth would have no water at Gaya; the Cow would no
longer be worshipped from the front as all others are- only its backside
would be worshipped; there would be no more Tulsi plants at Gaya and
the Gaya Brahmins would never be satisfied, they would always be
hungry and crave more and more. She then blessed the Akshaya Vatam
saying that all who came to Gaya would perform the Pinda pradaanam
at the Akshaya Vatam too.

Other temples in the vicinity are the Sakshi Gopal temple and the
Mangala Gowri Temple, which is among the Shakti peethams.

Ayodhya - The Land of Rama

Ayodhya, the birthplace of Rama is bout 250 Kms from Varanasi. The
river Sarayu flowing through this holy city is reason enough for a visit
there. We expected the river to be dry, as it was the peak summer, but
the quantity, the force and the depth of the water surprised us. Again, if
time hadn’t been a factor, we wouldn’t have come out of the water at all.
In fact, one of the best things that happened on this trip is that my son
Samhith has lost his fear of water. 10 days of bathing in rivers has not
only made him overcome his fear, but now he enjoys having a dip in
rivers, and is proud of his ‘dubki’ or a full dip in the river, and actually
tries to hold his breath under water!

The Sun rises over the Sarayu River

 The Crowds throng the river into which Rama merged at the end of his rule
on earth.

Ayodhya is much worse than Varanasi when it comes to extortion

from pilgrims in the name of religion. In fact, even though we were
accompanied by a guide, the number of people who tried to get money
out of us in the name of Hinduism spoilt the entire trip for us. We made
the trip to the Ram Janmabhoomi, which has been in the news for all the
wrong reasons. When we had got through all the tight security, and
walked the long distance to what was supposedly the exact place where
Rama was born, I found myself thinking, not about God, but whether all
that bloodshed was really worth it. I have never been a supporter of what
some call ‘doing good in the name of Hindutva’, and a visit to this place
which has seen the governance of a king like Rama as well as
destruction in His name, made me sad , to say the least.

The Hanuman Gadhi, a temple of Hanuman is the only one which

shows Hanuman on a throne. It is believed that Rama asked him to rule
the city when there was no ruler.
 While at Ayodhya, try to stay at the Birla Dharamshala. It is an
amazingly clean and nice place, and if you can get one the few AC
rooms, there’s nothing like it. 5 to 6 people can easily stay in one room
and the experience will be like that at a 5 star hotel!

Places to Visit around Ayodhya

1. Chitrakoot (270Kms from Varanasi and about 150Kms from

Ayodhya)– the place where Rama, Lakshmana and Sita first lived during
their exile. There are a number of places of tourist and religious interest
here. Not surprising, considering that Rama lived here for a number of
years. Among the famous places are

 Kamad Giri- where the mountain is believed to represent

Vishnu himself
 Hanumat Dhara- where a river emerges from the gada or
mace of Hanuman’s idol
 Spatik Shila- on the banks of the Mandakini, from where
Rama aimed an arrow to hit a crow (who was actually Jayanta, the son
of Indra) which was troubling Sita.
 Gupta Godavari- from where the river spring up on being hit
by Rama’s arrow.

2. Naimisharanya (400Kms from Varanasi and about 250 Kms from

Ayodhya)- this is the sacred place where the Vedas, Puranas and
Shastras were supposedly written, , and where sage Veda Vyasa recited
the Vedas for the benefit of the Devas under a 5000 year old Banyan
tree. The Gomati River flows here, the banks of which are covered by
religious institutions from every part of India

Allahabad - Triveni Sangam -the confluence of the three rivers

125 Kms from Varanasi is the sacred city of Allahabad where the three
greatest rivers of India meet, and continue their journey further. The
Ganga weaves her way down from the Himalayas from Gangotri,
passing places made sacred by her arrival, like Rishikesh and Haridwar,
and passing through the industrial city of Kanpur, before arriving at
Allahabad to join her sisters as she makes her way to Kashi. Yamuna
also begins her journey in the Himalayas, at Yamunotri, and passes
through Mathura and Brindavan, made more sacred by the association
of Krishna, and finally arrives at Allahabad where she joins the Ganga to
merge her identity with her. Saraswati arrives at Allahabad from god
alone knows where, for she is an underground river, who remains
unseen to mankind, making her presence felt at certain, extremely
special places. She renders the holy Ganga and Yamuna even more
pure, more sacred by her association with them at Allahabad. The place
where these 3 rivers merge is the Triveni Sangam, a place where
thousands and thousands congregate to pay their respects to the rivers
and pray for their well being and forgiveness for their sins.

The Many hues of the water at the Triveni Sangam

The three rivers maintain their identity and are visibly different as they
merge. While the Yamuna is deep but calm and greenish in colour, the
Ganga is shallow, but forceful and clear. The Saraswati remains hidden,
but the faithful believe that she makes her presence felt underwater.
During the monsoon, when the rivers are in full flow, the confluence of
the rivers is seen clearly due to the force of the water, but the same
force makes having a dip at the confluence difficult. I was told that during
the monsoon, most devotees bathe at the riverbank for safety, while the
more ardent ones who are willing to pay for the risk involved go to the
confluence in a boat, where a shallow area is created by the presence of
a number of boats with a kind of net suspended in between, and bathe
there. In May however, there was enough water to bathe, but no too
much, so we did not have any trouble in going to the centre of the rivers
where they meet in a boat. A sort of platform had been constructed
there, from which we climbed down into waist deep water. We had a
wonderful time bathing in the river. We could have stayed in the water
for ages, if it hadn’t been for the rites and rituals we had to perform back
at the mutt where we were staying. It was a wonderful experience and I
would advise people to visit Allahabad in March/April when the water will
be less and the weather would be pleasant. Of course, it will be quite
crowded at that time. May-end is actually a good time to visit if one
wants to avoid the crowd and have fun in the water.
 Heading towards the Sangam on a boat

A number of rituals are traditionally performed at Allahabad, mainly

for appeasing our ancestors. There are a number of Mutts there who
perform the rites. As at Kashi, there is no standard charge, but varies
according to the rites one wants to perform and the budget.

An interesting ritual performed at the Sangam is that of Veni Daanam.

This is a practice followed by married women for the long life of their
husbands. The husband is supposed to comb and plait the wife’s hair
and after decorating it with flowers, the end of the plait is cut off and
offered to the rivers. Some men even shave off their hair/beard and offer
it also to the rivers. This procedure is performed while travelling by boat
to the Sangam and the hair is offered along with flowers, etc at the
confluence. There is nothing interesting in itself about this. What is
interesting is that hair, being light normally floats on water, but at this
place, the hair sinks straight to the bottom. Though hundreds of people
offer their hair everyday, there is not a single strand of hair seen floating
on the river. Of course, there could and will be a scientific explanation for
this phenomenon, but whatever it is, it gives us proof that nature is a
wonderful thing….. Call it God or simply nature, it is indeed inspiring!
 The Platform at the confluence.

The temple of Veni Madhava (one of the trio along with Sethu Madhava
and Bindu Madhava, as I have mentioned before) is a little way inside
the city. It is a small temple, with a small idol of Vishnu representing Veni
Madhava. According to the legend painted on the walls of the temple,
there was once a rakshasa who troubled all the Devas. Narada sought
an audience with him to find out his weakness, and found that he
suffered from a skin infliction. He told the Asura to bathe in the Triveni
Sangam at Allahabad, which the Asura proceeded to do. Amazed at
finding himself cured, he wanted to possess the 3 great rivers who had
cured him, and began drinking them up! When the rivers pleaded with
Vishnu, he arrived in the form of Veni Madhava and killed him, restoring
the rivers to their rightful place.
 The Veni Madhava Temple

The Shayana Anjaneya temple is an important one right on the banks

of the river. Here, the idol of Hanuman is larger than life, carrying Rama
and Lakshmana on his shoulders. Only, the idol is lying down. There are
many stories about this temple. According to one, hanuman stepped
over the rivers without their permission, angering them. They rose up
and threw him to the ground, and crushed his ego. According to the
locals, every year, the river rises and covers the whole idol before going
back, which they consider absolute proof of this story. Another legend
mentions that this is where hanuman emerged with Rama and
Lakshmana after defeating the king of Patala, the netherworld, Ahi
Ravana. Whatever the story, the temple is a simple and nice one.

The Adi Shankara Vimana Mandapam, a temple built by the Kanchi

Mutt is right next to this temple. This is a 3 storeyed temple with idols
and sculptures of various Gods and Goddesses. It is worth a visit.

The other paces of interest in Allahabad are-

The Allahabad fort, on the banks of the Yamuna, where we take a boat
to go to the Sangam.

The Bharadvaj Ashram, where Sage Bharadvaj lived

Anand Bhavan- the birthplace of our first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal

Nehru.

We were unable to visit these places due to lack of time. I hope to visit
them when I next get the chance.

75 Kms from Allahabad is Sita Madhi, or Sita Samahit Sthal, where

Sita is believed to have merged with mother earth. This place has
recently been developed by the UP Tourism Dept, and made into a
tourist spot. There is nothing remotely religious about it now, but children
seem to enjoy the attractions of the place which are a huge statue of
Hanuman with an artificial cave under it, a Shiva lingam inside a cave,
and the Sita temple flanked by a river on all sides, and a statue depicting
Sita entering the ground.
A Statue of Hanuman 
 The Sita Temple at Sita Madhi

75 Kms from here is Vindhyachal, where the temple of Vindhyavasini

is one among the Shaktipeethas. We were unable to visit this temple too.

I would advise my readers to start early in the morning and visit

Allahabad first. It is possible to have a dip in the river and visit all the
temples, fort and other places by afternoon, if one does not have to
perform all the rituals there. On the return journey, visit Sita Madhi and
Vindhyachal, both of which are on the same route.

Other Ancient Temples in Kashi

Kashi is a place of pilgrimage and people come here to visit temples.
It is therefore no wonder that wherever you turn, you come across a
temple. Some are ancient, some recent, and the others fall somewhere
in between. Some are architecturally beautiful; some have an interesting
history, while the others attract you simply for their sanctity. It is
practically impossible to make a complete list of the temples in Kashi,
and I will not even try to make that attempt. I will, therefore stick to
describing the temples I have visited, and the temples I have heard of,
but could not visit.

The Varahi Temple

Varahi (Photo Courtesy:Internet)

Varahi is considered to be one of the Saptha Matas or seven forms of
the Divine Mother. She is the Shakti (Power) of Vishnu when He took the
form of a Boar (Varaha) to kill the demon Hiranyaksha and save the
Earth.

The Varahi temple is on the Tripura Bhairavi Ghat, and is within walking
distance from the Vishwanath Temple. I had never heard of this temple,
and visiting this temple threw up a couple of surprises. The first was that
the temple is open only from 5AM to 7AM!!! The prayers to the Devi are
completed and the doors tightly shut before the first rays of the sun can
fall on them. Much as we tried, we couldn’t get a satisfactory reason for
this out of the only person who was present there. If any of you have any
more light to throw on this, you are welcome. Please add your comments
at the bottom of this post.

The second surprise was the idol of the goddess itself. The idol is in
the basement, and only the priest goes down the steps to bathe and
decorate the idol. All other devotees have to peep through a hole in the
(basement) roof to have darshan of the goddess who, to put it simply, is
huge!! There are 2 holes- one to have darshan of the face, and another
of the feet. The goddess has a reputation for being very powerful, and it
is believed that when a priest kept chanting the wrong mantras, she
swallowed him up whole!

Though open for only 2 hours in a day, the temple is remarkably well
kept. The temple is not for sleepy heads who like their holidays to be
relaxed. It is a good idea to attend the early morning Mangalaarti at the
Vishwanath temple, and then visit this temple before returning home.
This is what we did, and returned completely satisfied. Make sure you
are accompanied by a guide or someone who knows the roads, as the
narrow lanes are completely deserted at this time of the morning, and it
is easy to get lost in the winding lanes of the city. I was accompanied by
my son, my husband and mother-in-law, besides the guide, and in spite
of that, I and my son managed to lose our way and spent a scary 10
minutes till they found us again!

So go ahead, get up early and visit this temple. It’s worth the effort!
 Varahi (Photo Courtesy:Internet)

The Kedareshwar Temple

The Kedareshwar temple on Kedar Ghat is one of the few temples which
have withstood attacks by the Mughals. Probably they did not consider
the temple important enough! Whatever the reason, this temple, situated
right on the banks of the Ganga on the Kedar Ghat stands tall and proud
till date. A visit to this temple is believed to give one the fruits of a visit to
the great temple at Kedarnath, and is always filled with pilgrims.

The Chintamani Ganapathy Temple

The Chintamani Ganapathy temple is very near the Kedareshwar

temple, and is another important temple of lord Ganesh.

The Sakshi Vinayaka temple

The Sakshi vinayaka temple is very near the gate no.1 of the
Vishwanath temple. Though the idol is huge, there is no temple to speak
of. It looks like a simple roadside temple, but in reality, it is this Ganesh
who is considered Sakshi or witness of the Panch Kosi Parikrama, or the
5 mile circumambulation of the temples in Kashi.

The Durga Temple

The Durga temple, next to the Durga Kund is also an ancient temple and
is also known as the monkey temple because of the multitude of
monkeys around.

We were unable to visit the following temples on my list. We wanted to,

especially since we had heard a lot about them, but time was a major
consideration, followed by our giving priority to the rituals more than the
temples. I hope we shall get another chance to visit these temples.
Meanwhile, I am mentioning the names of the temples and their
importance so that at least my readers can visit them!

The Tilabhandeshwara Temple

This temple is among the older ones in Kashi, with one of the largest
lingams in the city. It is believed that the lingam grows the size of a
sesame (Til) seed every day and hence the name. The temple is
situated near the Bengali Tola Intermediate College. We were unable to
see this temple, but I recommend visitors to visit the temple and mail me
their opinion.

The Manikarnikeshwara Temple

The Manikarnika Ghat is one of the most sacred Ghats on the Ganges,
and is believed to be earliest. On this Ghat stands the
Manikarnikeshwara temple, where one has to climb down two storeys
under the ground to reach the sanctum, which is believed to be at the
same level as the bed of the Ganges. This temple is said to be among
the oldest here, but we were unable to find anyone to accompany is
down to the temple. I had read about this temple on the website
of Outlook Traveller, and wanted to visit it, but our guide claimed that no
one visited the temple anyway, and hence it wasn’t safe to do so….well,
so there’s another temple that I want to visit someday!

The Temple Circuit

The Vishwanath and Annapurna temples are the most popular and
famous temples in Kashi, and the main reasons for a visit. However, our
ancient texts mention a few more temples which are important and must
be visited to complete the circuit of temples.

The Dhundi Ganapathy temple

Traditionally, the temple circuit begins with a visit to the Dhundi

Ganapathy temple. This temple is on the way to the Vishwanath temple,
is a small temple, looking like one on the roadside, but is actually one of
the important ones. We can pay our respects to Ganesha while standing
in the queue to enter the Vishwanath temple.

The Visalakshi Temple

Visalakshi is the second consort of Shiva in this holy city of Kashi. This
temple is one among the 52 Shakti peethams, and is part of the famous
triad of temples- Kanchi Kamakshi, Madurai Meenakshi and Kashi
Visalakshi. This small temple is situated in one of the narrow lanes
around the Vishwanath temple, and it is mainly south Indians who seek
out this temple.

Though the temple is quite small, the idol of the goddess is very

beautiful. Behind the main stone idol of the goddess is another idol
(some say it is a silver casting, others say it is an idol), believed to be the
idol prayed to in ancient times. One of our guides told us that it was the
swayambhu idol of the goddess, while another refuted this claim.
Whatever it is, it is certainly worth a look, so remember to look behind
the idol when you visit the temple.
Adi Shankaracharya, when he visited the temple, performed prayers to
renew the powers of the temple and the goddess which had borne the
brunt of several invasions. He also installed a Sri Yantram there, and it is
to this Yantram that puja is done. Kumkumarchana to this Sri Yantram is
considered very special, and can be performed by asking the pujari
there.

The Kala Bhairav temple

Kala Bhairav is the guardian deity of Kashi. He occupies the position of

a guard/ watchman with a dog as his vehicle, and is regarded as one of
the forms of Shiva himself. In Kashi, there are 8 Bhairav temples,
collectively called Ashta Bhairav. These are - Kala Bhairav, Dhandapani,
Veera Bhairav, Batuk Bhairav, Aashu Bhairav, Aananda Bhairav, Rudra
Bhairav and Ruru Bhairav. We visited only the first two temples, as our
guide had no idea where the other temples were.
 Kala Bhairav(Photo courtesy:internet)
Among these, Kala Bhairav is the most important one, visited by all
those who visit Kashi. Dhandapani, or the one who wields a stick, is the
one who decides on the punishment, while Kala Bhairav is the one who
enforces his decision. In the words of our guide, Dhandapani is the
commissioner, while Kala Bhairav is the constable. As usual, it is the
constable who is more feared, than the commissioner himself!

I remember visiting the Kala Bhairav temple on my earlier visit. Seen

through the eyes of a 12 year old imaginative girl, the temple had an
eerie atmosphere, was practically empty, and rather scary I couldn’t get
out of the temple soon enough! No wonder then that this memory has
stuck for more than 20 years. It was with some slight trepidation that I
visited the temple this time, only to have my memories trashed in a
moment. The temple had no atmosphere, scary or otherwise. Just like
any other temple, with the pandas desperately trying to squeeze money
out of us………..

The specialty of this temple is the sacred thread available there. These
threads, known as Kashi threads, are supposed to ward off evil forces,
and are in great demand.

The Bindu Madhava Temple

Among the ancient temples in the must-visit list of Kashi temples is the

Bindu Madhava Temple. This temple is also one of a trinity- Veni
Madhava at Sangam in Allahabad, Bindu Madhava at Kashi and Sethu
Madhava at Rameswaram. All these three temples are small, simple
affairs, with similar idols which are rather small in size.

The Bindu Madhava Temple is best approached from the

Panchaganga Ghat. There is, of course a road, but one which is rarely
used by the pilgrims. The original temple was apparently a big and
important one, but was destroyed by Aurangzeb, who (as usual) built a
mosque over it. The mosque stands proudly till date, though a couple of
turrets have fallen recently, while the new temple is a small one,
practically invisible until we reach it.

The Chozhi Mata Temple

A visit to Kashi is incomplete without a visit to the Chozhi Mata Temple.

This temple is known by various names such as Chozhi or Cowrie Mata,
and Gauri Mata temple, and the name owes its origin to the cowries or
shells which are thrown to the goddess as offering. The goddess her is
considered to be a sister of Shiva.
According to legend, Shiva sister had her temple within the ancient
temple complex. However, when she saw thousands of common people
touch and hug her brother while praying, she became jealous and tried
to stop this practice. At this, Shiva became angry. “He was at Kashi so
that the common people could pray to him the way they liked” He said,
and as punishment, banished her, and sent her out of the temple. She
repented and prayed to Shiva for mercy, and finally he relented. He
could not take back the curse, but He decreed that al those who visit
Kashi should visit her too. A trip to Kashi would be ineffective if one
returned without visiting her. Hence it is a practice to visit the Chozhi
Mata Temple after visiting all the temples in Kashi and performing all
rituals. One can buy cowries outside the temple, throw a few on the
goddess and ask her to bless them by bestowing on them the fruits of
their Kashi Yatra, and bring back a few cowries as Prasad.

Cowries or Chozhi in Tamil, which are offered to Chozhi Mata

This temple is en-route to BHU and is quite easy to find, as it is
frequented by quite a large crowd at all times. Do visit this temple and
make your Yatra a success!

The Annapurna Temple

Food is one of the basic necessities of life, and it is no wonder that we
say ‘Annam Brahma’, food is God. It is the mother who provides food for
the child, and it is again no wonder that we pray to the goddess Parvati
as Annapurna, the one who gives us food. It is believed that Parvati
gave Alms to Shiva, and she is depicted with a bowl in one hand and
ladle in the other, serving food to Shiva, standing in front of her, with his
begging bowl in His hand. The most popular temple of Annapurna is at
Kashi followed by the one at Horanadu, in Karnataka (Read my blog).
There are two other temples of Annapurna, one in Kerala, and one in
Gujarat. I have not yet had the pleasure of visiting these last two
temples. When I do, I shall surely write about them. To read about the
legend of Annapurna, and her other temples in India, click here.
The temple of Annapurna at Kashi is right next to the Vishwanath
temple. This temple is attached to the Annapurna Mutt. A highlight of this
temple is that every year, the day before Diwali, a golden idol of
Annapurna is opened for darshan. This idol can be seen only on that
one day, and it is indeed a great sight! Annapurna sits in the middle with
her trademark bowl and ladle. On her left is Lakshmi (Sridevi- the
goddess of wealth) and on her right is Bhudevi (the goddess of the
earth). All these idols are of pure Gold, and are beautiful to look at. In
front of them stands Shiva, made of silver, asking for alms. I was
fortunate enough to visit Kashi during Diwali when I was a child, and the
image of the Golden Annapurna is etched on my mind. It is a great wish
of mine to go back once more and feast my eyes on that wonderful sight,
but that is in Her hands alone!

In the sanctum of the temple, the idol of the goddess is a small one,
which is always decorated in a sari when open for darshan. A silver
mask covers her face, and little else can be seen. All the idols of
Annapurna available show her in a sitting position, and we naturally
assumed that that was how she was in this temple. However, we were in
for a pleasant surprise. We had arranged for Abhishekam at the temple,
and were allowed into the sanctum to perform the Abhishekam
ourselves. It was then that we realized that the idol of Annapurna is
made of black stone, quite small, and she is in the standing position. The
image is simple, holding only the bowl and ladle, with practically no
decorations at all. But goodness, she is so beautiful! The smile on her
face is so charming, so real, it almost seems She is standing in front of
us!

For the information of devotees who would like to perform the

Abhishekam, tickets are available at the temple office for Rs.750/-. This
amount is subject to change, and it would be better if one made
enquiries at the temple office. The mutt and the local priests there have
come to some sort of an arrangement where the Guruji of the mutt
performs the puja on certain days and on certain days, the puja is
performed by the local priests. There is a board put up outside the main
sanctum informing people about who is performing the puja that day.
The day the mutt is in charge, it is a simple matter to pay money at the
office and arrange for the Abhishekam. On the other days, the amount is
subject to the number of people wanting to perform the Abhishekam and
the amount they are willing to pay! Please check details in advance so
that you can be prepared. The Abhishekam is performed at 10:30AM
every morning, but there again, there is an inevitable delay, so be
patient, and you will be rewarded. It is worth a wait!

Another specialty of this temple is that food is served to all

devotees….food is too simple a term for what is virtually a feast. Free
coupons are available at the temple office and the food is served in a
hall behind the temple. It is believed that the goddess takes her food
only after making sure that all her devotees have had their fill. Try to
partake of this Prasad at least once during your stay in Kashi. It is also a
tradition to perform some service before taking food here. So many
devotees take their turn in serving a few devotees before starting to eat.
This was a wonderful experience in itself, and a practice that must be
encouraged.
 The Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Kashi is known as the land of Shiva. Everything in Kashi not only
revolves around the main temple of Vishwanath, as Shiva is known here,
but He is also believed to be in control of everything that happens in this
holy city. Normally, in Hindu mythology, the nine planets, or Navagrahas,
who govern our actions, are independent, and perform their duty without
interference from the Gods (a case of not even God interfering with
nature and her rules). However, Kashi is a special city, an exception to
this rule, where Shiva even governs the Navagrahas. It is believed that
Lord Shaneeshwara (Saturn) once came to catch Shiva for the period of
7 ½ years (what is commonly called Saade-saati), and found himself
unable to enter the temple. He is believed to have stayed outside the
temple, and hence the temple of Shaneeshwara outside the Vishwanath
temple is much frequented by pilgrims who light oil lamps here, hoping to
escape the clutch of Shani.

There are just too many legends to explain why Kashi is sacred, and
why Shiva chose to reside here. I recently read an article where the
writer explains in scientific terms, that in this area, the Ganges flows in a
curve, in the northward direction. The curvature and the force of the river
led to the formation of a natural amphitheatre, or natural steps in simpler
terms. This probably attracted our forefathers to this place, who built
Ghats where the steps had formed, to have a bath, and installed their
patron deity, Shiva as the lord of this place. Therefore, in order to avoid
the confusion, let us not discuss the legends and accept the fact that
here, Shiva is called Vishwanath or Vishweshwar, the lord of the world.

Kashi or Benares has been ruled by various great kings, some

distinguished ones, and some not so famous. It even passed through a
phase of being ruled over by the Buddhists. But the ancient temples,
which saw so many rulers come and go, could not survive the onslaught
of the Mughals. The temples were destroyed, not once, but a number of
times by various Mughal invaders, leaving no trace of what the original
temples might have looked like.

The temple, as it stands today, owes its existence to the Queen of

Indore, Rani AhilyaBai Holkar. It was she who, seeing the sorry state of
affairs here, not only provided the funds, but also made all the
arrangements for building the temple. She was certainly a great woman,
much ahead of her time, who took up the task of restoring to their glory,
many of the ancient temples of India, which had suffered at the hands of
plundering monarchs. The temple of Somnath is another such temple.
Among the other temples which she helped build are the ones at
Dwaraka, Triambakeshwar, and Parali Vaidyanath.

Rani Ahilyabai Holkar (Courtesy:Internet)

The present temple stands beside a mosque that had been built by

Aurangzeb over the ruins of the original temple. The sacred idol, the
Shiva lingam, had been hidden in a well, hoping to prevent its
destruction. This well, now known as the Gyaana Vapi (well of
knowledge) stands in an area between the temple and the mosque. I
have had the good fortune to visit Kashi twice-the first time as a 12 year
old, and again recently, almost 20 years later. On my first visit, I
remember seeing the well and being told its story when we were
circumambulating the temple. This time however, there was some
construction work going on (they are renovating the temple and the area
around it), and we were unable to circumambulate the temple, and
hence could not see the well.

Though Kashi is a place of great sanctity, it is also infamous for the

Pandas, or a class of priests, who charge exorbitant amounts of money.
If u talk to anyone who has visited Kashi, you will be sure to hear tales of
how they have been overcharged and been taken for a ride by these
people. The same goes for the temple too. However, the temple
administration is now making efforts to remedy the situation. The first
step it has taken in this direction is the creation of its own website. This
site has been well organized, with complete details about the temple, as
well as the pujas conducted, the timings of the different Aarthis, and the
charges for the various offerings. Best of all, it is possible to book pujas
on the net well in advance, and arrange whether you want the puja to be
performed in your presence, in which case the ticket allows you an entry
into the temple bypassing the long queue, or in your absence, in which
case, the Prasad is sent to you by post. This is a good system, and must
be appreciated. Of course, at this point of time, this doesn’t entirely
bypass the earlier system of paying money to the priests. These days,
there are a number of people who book for the pujas, and one often gets
relegated to the back row from where we can hardly get a glimpse of
what is going on. A little extra from your wallet goes a long way in getting
you a prime position to watch the puja.

We attended 2 Aartis at the temple- the Saptharishi Aarthi in the

evening, and the early morning Mangalaarti.
 The golden domes of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple (courtesy:internet)

The Saptharishi Aarthi is the aarti performed by 7 priests, each

belonging to a different Gotram, performing the aarti to the lingam
simultaneously. It is believed that every evening, the Saptarishis, the
seven great sages come to perform aarti to the lord, and hence this puja
is conducted every evening at 7 PM. This is followed by the Shringar
Aarthi and finally the Shayan Aarti, when the Lord is put to sleep. We
attended only the saptarishis aarthi, but if you do, pay for the Shringar
Aarti and stay for the Shayan aarti as well, which is free. Seeing these
Aartis is an experience which must not be missed. We were absolutely
spellbound seeing the way in which they decorated the Shiva lingam, but
I have no words to describe the atmosphere during the final aarthi, which
was simply divine, to say the least!

The early morning Mangalaarti, where the Lord is woken up is at 3AM

every morning. It is, no doubt, not an easy thing to be up and ready at
the temple by 2:45AM, especially on a holiday, but this is one puja which
is worth the effort! First, we get to see the Lord, as he was during the
night (Nirmalya Darshan). Then, all the garlands and flowers are
removed, and we get to see the original lingam in all its majesty (again,
 not an easy thing to see, as it is usually covered with flowers, water and
bilva leaves). Then, Abhishekam is performed to the lingam followed by
decoration with flowers. Again, this decoration is removed, and we get
the Prasad, and finally each and everyone present is allowed to go near
the lingam and offer prayers. This can be done in peace as the temple
doors are not yet opened to the public. We spent about 20 minutes thus
in seclusion with the lord we had come to see from so far…….

There is one more Aarthi in the afternoon, called the Bhog Aarthi. We

did not attend that, and am unable to give any details about it.

For more information about Aarthis and booking, visit the temple
website:

 http://www.shrikashivishwanath.org/

So go ahead, and experience the divinity of the Vishwanath Temple at

Kashi, and look out for more posts about Kashi itself!!!!

How to Reach Varanasi, Where to Stay and Where to Eat

In the days of my grandparents, going to Kashi was a dream, a
journey which entailed days of travel by a rickety bus, and then, for the
poor, a weary walk to the holy city, and for the affluent, a bullock cart
ride. It is interesting to hear these stories, especially now that we don’t
have to undergo any hardships to reach this holy place. The pilgrimage
is no longer an arduous trip, but an easy holiday.

The best way to reach Varanasi is, of course by Air. The airport is

about 10Kms outside the city, and there are a number of flights from
Delhi, and even Bombay.

Trains are also a good option. There are two major stations these
days- Varanasi Junction and Kashi. Mughalsarai, 10 Kms away, is also
extremely well connected. If you want to get a first hand experience of
train travel in India, then make sure to take a II class ticket and travel
from Mumbai to Varanasi by train. The experience will certainly be a
unique one, and you will get ample time to study human nature – from
single travelers to couples with a vast number of kids (and only one
berth), the crowd getting in and out at every station, and of course, the
vendors, selling every variety of food items possible. Of course, if you
want to avoid all this and have a comfortable journey, book tickets in an
AC coach. Things will certainly seem better.

Buses are also an option today, if you are coming from somewhere in

UP or the nearby states. However, do not look for comforts, as they are
not yet available.

By far, trains are certainly the most cost-efficient option.

Once you reach Varanasi, travel to your place of stay is not a very
difficult process. The prepaid Auto stand outside the station is the best
way to get to your destination without getting conned.

It is a good idea to plan your travel and book your place of stay
beforehand.
There are a large number of hotels and lodges in Varanasi, and
choosing one is not an easy thing, especially when one is surrounded by
a crowd of people including the auto/car driver and ones’ luggage.

If you plan to stay at one of the high end hotels, book well in advance.

All these hotels have their own website, and make reservations online.

If you are running on a modest budget, again the net is the best place
for you to search. Phone numbers of many such hotels are available on
the net. Check some of these out and make your bookings before you
start.
 View of the Ganges from Hanuman Ghat

If you only have a shoestring budget, do not worry. Varanasi beckons

to all, and makes arrangements for all, rich and poor alike. On each one
of the 64 Ghats along the Ganga, there are only mutts, or Hindu
monasteries, belonging to various sects. Each Ghat generally has mutts
from different parts of India. For example, the Hanuman Ghat is lined
with mutts belonging to south India, and hence, is mainly frequented by
south Indians. At such places, the accommodation is usually basic but is
a good place to stay if you are religious and are planning to perform the
rites to ancestors etc. we stayed at the Kanchi Shankara Mutt, and
except for the regular power cuts, it wasn’t too bad, in fact, much better
than we expected.

These days, many of the priests who perform the rituals here have
realized that a number of visitors come to perform rituals, but at the
same time, need the comforts they are used to at home. They are
learning to make use of this need, and are rebuilding their homes,
adding rooms for guests, who can stay there in comfort, AC and all, and
perform all their rites and rituals in peace. A luxurious pilgrimage, in
fact!!!! 

Food is not a problem at Varanasi. If you stay at one of the Mutts, they
will cook for you, and that too, typical home cooked food. Outside, hotels
abound, and you can find every kind of cuisine. Try one for every meal,
and you will have variety, if nothing else!

Wherever you go in Varanasi, the first thing you will notice is cows!
Cows are never confined to cowsheds, and it is a belief that in this holy
city, they will never butt anyone. With so many cows around, it is no
wonder that milk and milk products are cheap and wholesome. We
gorged on milk, buttermilk, lassi and cream all the 10 days that we were
there. Do check them out!

Mr.P.S.Venkataramanan his mail id is

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Kasi Maha Deva Ganapadigal

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Shri Swamimalai Krishnamurthi Ganabadigal

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Sampoorna Kaasi Yaatra

Dear Members,
In our Hindu religion, the River Ganges is considered the most sacred. A dip in the river Ganges ensures
salvation. Death at Kasi/Varanasi ensures that you break away from the vicious cycle of birth and death.
Every Hindu is expected to visit Kasi/Gaya at least once and perform the srardham for his forefathers.
A brief write up on how to proceed on this is given below. This is what we did

Sri Ganesaya Namah:

SAMPOORNA KASI YATRA

As per our Hindu scriptures, every Hindu,especially us Brahmins have to undertake a pilgrimage called
The Kasi Yatra at least once in our life time.
This is done to please our fore-fathers (ancestors) and for the welfare of our family and the next
generations.

Stage-I

The yatra starts with a pilgrimage to Rameswaram,where Lord Rama did pooja to Lord Shiva who is
called Sri Ramanatha Swami in Rameswaram Temple.

One has to take a bath in the holy Agni Theertham there and take a Sankalpam at the start of the
pooja.Then we take ritual baths in the 28 holy Theerthams in the Temple complex at the Rameswaram
Temple.Then have Darshan of the Lord Sri Ramanatha Swami .

Then we have to perform Srardham for our ancestors there either as a full Srardham or as a Hiranya
Srardham, an abridged version of the ceremony with five Brahmin priests. Here instead of cooked rice,
wet soaked rice is given as Pindams or offerings.

Then we go over to the lands -end, Dhanushkodi, where one has to take dip/snaan in the sea 33 times,
collect the sand from the seashore in three big scoops . This sand (about a Kg each bag) are called no
more as just sand. They are named, Sethu Madhava,Veni Madhava and Bindhu Madhava after
Aavahanam. Sethu Madhava and Bindu Madhava are dissolved/consigned to the sea and the other, Veni
Madhava is brought with us in a cloth bag . These are to be dissolved in the Prayag, the Sangam
( confluence) of the Holy River Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswathi at Allahabad at Triveni Sangam.

Then visit the various temples in Rameswaram like Kothandarama Swami. Rama Theertham, Lakshmana
Theertham, Seetha Theertham etc.

Stage II

From Rameswaram after prayers we go over to Varanasi. Have darshan of the Lord Viswanath and
Paarvathi who is called here Visalakshi, Goddess Annapoorni and proceed to Allahabad for Triveni
Sangam.The rituals done in and around Varanasi/Kasi are called in short as:Prayag Mundan,Kasi
Dhandan and Gaya Pindan.The things to do are:

Sankalpam

We start our rituals with a Sankalpam,a pledge for the things to do.The spouses, before the Veni Dhan,
seek permission from their husbands . Then the Veni Madhav and Bindu Madhava, by now dried are
worshipped. Please do not call them as sands from Rameswaram.Plastic bags are banned in The Ganges
so carry them in cloth bags.

Then in a flat plate, (Muram in Tamil) keep a mirror,comb, kumkum, haldi,a blouse piece and take a
boat to the Sangam With the priests,(Pandas of Kasi) Prayag) chanting divine Mantras, the husband
combs the wife's hair,(Pinnal) then does pooja to the scissors and accompanied by chantings of the
priest removes some hair (ritualistic) from the pleat of hair of his wife.This,with the things kept in the
Muram, is offered to the river Ganges at the Sangam.

It is observed that while the Turmeric/kumkum float,the piece of hair sinks,. It is understood as the
acceptance of our offering Veni Dhanam, by the Triveni . Triveni means the confluence of the three
rivers,Ganga,Yamuna and Saraswathi..

Then offer/dissolve the Veni and Bindu Madhavas brought from Rameswaram in the sangam.

Afterwards,collect water from the confluence of the Ganga and the Yamuna in a can for getting it sealed
in coppeer vessels. One vessel,about half a litre or so are to be preserved for the Abhishekam at
Rameswaram to conclude the Sampoorna Kasi Yatra. The other small copper vessels filled with the holy
water can be used in poojas at home and for offering to friends/relatives.

After returning from Triveni Sangam, Tharpanam has to be done at the Siva Mutt.The cooked rice for
making 17 pindams are prepared and given by the priests at the Shivmutt.Opposite the mutt is a place
for sealing the Ganges water in small copper vessels.If we had informed them in advance, meals are
provided at the Shiv mutt at a nominal cost of Rs.50/=per plate. Most people do the filling and sealing of
the Holy water from Ganges at the Chettiar shop in Varanasi.

STAGE-III

KASI/VARANASI

The priests at Kasi(Sastrigal) ,all of them make all necessary arrangements for the yatra. Our priest is
Sri Mahadev Ganapadigal. Tel No.-099849 61599).He does kaaryams for all three vedas, i.e. Rig,Yajur
and Samaveda.Once tied up in advance,he picks the yatris at Varanasi and arranges vehicles for moving
to Prayag, Kasi, Gaya etc. Things for the Dhan can either be brought by yatris themselves or he makes
necessary arrangements for the Dhans to Brahmins after Srardham.

It is belived traditionally, that,this Dhan help us get rid of the sins committed or accumulated,and we
have a peace of mind at the end of all the rituals.

The Srardham or ceremony could be either the regular one with homam etc. Or as Hiranya srardham.
Depends on one's desire/capacity.

Instead of normal cooking done in the south,the cooking here differs in that,coconut,tomato and green
chillies are included here. Appam, vadai and Til laddus (Ellurundai) are made.

The strange fact at Varanasi is the complete absence of Crows! Hence pindams (offerings) are fed to the
cows only.

In the afternoon, temple visits can be made.

Please note that,cellphones,cameras,big hand bags are not permitted. Better to leave them in the place
of residence.

At the Temple of the Kaala Bhairava, the thin Kasi threads,(Kasi kayaru) are kept at the feet of the God
and given to us for tying in the wrists.

At the Murugan Temple here,Lord Dhandapani,Lord Muruga strangely sports a beard .The priest ,has a
stick at the sanctum sanctorum and gives three strokes/taps with it on your back. It is supposed to be a
punishment for the sins committed by us!

STAGE IV
GAYA:

It is believed that, in Gaya,our Pitrus, our fore-fathers will be waiting for our offerings, pindams.It is said
that Sri Rama came here with Seetha to offer pindams for his father and when he went to collect items
for the same, Dasaratha appeared before Seetha and requested for offerings as he was hungry.
Seetha,without knowing what to do as she had nothing,took some sand and made pindams and
Dasaratha took it gladly and went off.When Rama offered pindams later,Dasaratha told that Seetha had
already offered and that he was satiated.Rama,saddened by it asked Seetha of witnesses for her
offerings.Seetha asked River Phalguni to bear witness,but Phalguni fearing a fight between Rama and
Seetha said that she had not seen it.Seetha asked later a cow,Thulasi and Brahmins to bear witness for
the same. They all refused and Seetha ,vexed with them,cursed that the Phalguni shall become dry,cow
should lose itsknowledge and shall be worshipped thereafer only from behind and Thulasi to become a
shrub in garbage.and the brahmins' hunger to be never satisfied and thence suffer from pangs of
hunger.The only witness,the Aklshaya Vadam, the banyan tree was blessed by her to be eternal with
long life.

At Gaya,the priests at the Karnataka Bhavan and Sankara Mutt make all necessary arrangements for the
ceremonial offerings.

First, from the spring water dug out from deep in the Phalguni river bed, rice is cooked. Then after
Tharpan,rice is cooked in two vessels for the preparation of 17 and 64 pindams as offerings. Then at
Vishnupadam,a place of worship,17 pindams are offered to those who were or forefathers,i.e.
Parents,grand parents,great-grand parents,Karunya pitrus,to those who died without water or food( If
any)to those who died without any offsprings ( due to which karmas are not done for them by
successors).

Then for our mother who bore us to this world bearing untold sufferings during pregnancy,-she is offered
16 pindams, then for all our relatives,those related to us by marriage( In-laws side)the servants of our
household, to our teachers, friends and pets, pindams are offered. That is whoever had interacted with
us and are no more are remembered and offered food here.

Then at the place of stay in Gaya, regular Srardham, the ceremony is performed. All necessary expenses
including provision of a cook for the preparations are made by the Sastrigal from Kasi.

Unlike South Indian food for ceremonies, the food here contains the local dishes viz. Pooris, Dhal,2
vegetables, sambhar, rasam, vadai, buttermilk.

It is strange to observe that the Brahmins of Gaya are all thin,slim ,may be a witness to the curse given
ages back!!

After 17+64 pindams offered at Akshaya Vadam the person doing all this Kaaryam is to leave from his
consumption ( swear off) a vegetable,a leaf and a fruit for ever thereafter. These are to be from his
favourites not from the ones he hates!!. The Gaya Brahmin is asked whether he is fully satisfied with our
offerings and then conclude our rituals at Gaya.

STAGE V

KASI

At Kasi we have to do Panch Ghat snan with offering of Pindams at each ghat (17pindams). Take bath at
Assi Ghat first,get in the boat,cook rice in a stove in the boat itself,make 17 rice balls(pindams). Do
tharpan and offfer it to Ganges. Cook again and start for the next ghat. Offer the pindams there after
bath and Tharpan and continue in this manner for 5 Ghats.Other ghats are Dasaaswamedh Ghat,Mani
karnika Ghat,PanchGanga ghat, and Trilochan ghat.Takes about 2 hours and a cook acoompanies us in
the boat.

Then at residence in Kasi do Dhampathi Pooja, Ganga Pooja and Kalabhairavar Samaradhanai. For
Dhampathi Pooja we offer Dhothi+vastram and Saree with blouse piece with accessories like kumkum,
mirror, comb, bangles etc to an aged couple treating them as Kasi Viswanath and Sri Visalakshi (the
reigning God and Goddess of Varanasi ).

At Varanasi,Chettiar shaop specializes in getting the water you had collected at Triveni Sangam in
copper vessels of your choosing. They do not charge for sealing the Ganga water. It is a good and
relatively cheaper place for buying your requirements of small copper plates and statuettes of Goddess
Annapoorni. At the end of Kasi Yatra one is supposed to gift Ganaga Jal,and Annapoorni to your near
and dear along with the Kasi Kayaru of the KalaBhairava temple!

STAGE VI

Rameswaram

Perform Abhishekam to the Lord of Rameswaram,Sri Ramanatha Swamy and do archana and conclude
Kasi Yatra,

STAGE VII

At your residence perform a Ganga Samaradhanai,pooja to Ganga with Ganges water filled vessels,feed
2 brahmins and gift Ganga Jal etc to relatives/close friends and conclude the Kasi Yatra.

SUBHAM

Wishing our members a Happy Deepavali in dvance,

Varadarajan