Module Two

Landscape Installation and Maintenance
MODULE
Landscape
Installation and
Maintenance
Prepared by:
JONATHAN FAJARDO
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This Module is a part of the subject in Introduction to Industrial Arts I. This
module is intended for Bachelor in Technology and Livelihood Education
(BTLEd) major in Industrial Art and Home Economics. This is pre-requisite to
Industrial Art II, meaning to fail in this subject you cannot enrolled the
Introduction to Industrial Arts II.
II. DURATION : 14 hours (3 hrs. per week)
III. MODULE DESCRIPTION:
This module is composed of 6 lessons; it discusses the brief history of

landscape installation and maintenance and competencies of TESDA for
Landscape Installation and Maintenance NC II, knowledge and skills in
fundamental of electronics like diagramming and demonstrate how to use
basic hand tools & test equipment. Safety and work habit are also given
emphasis.
This module is designed for beginners in the field of wood works. Topic is
presented and some examples were provided to be able understand easily.
To identify the learning outcome short assessment is included, and for further
deep understanding and appreciation of the lesson practical activity is
needed to accomplish.
IV. OBJECTIVES:
After studying this Module, the student should be able to:
1. recognize and understand Landscape installation
2. recognize the competencies of Landscape Installation and

Maintenance NC II
3. prepare site clearing and grubbing
5. perform site preparation activities
5. install plant support
6. apply maintenance operation
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MODULE Landscape Installation and Maintenance
V. CONTENT :
MODULE : Landscape Installation and Maintenance

1. Landscape installation
2. Landscape installation and maintenance competencies
2. Site clearing and grubbing
3. Site preparation activities
4. Install plant support
5. Maintenance operation
VI. REQUIREMENTS:
As evidence of attaining the above learning outcomes, the student is
required to do and submit the following during the indicated dates of the
term.
• Individual (board foot calculation activity)

• Types of Wood joints
• Book end
VII. GRADING SYSTEM:
Mid-Term and Final Examination 25%

Activities 20%
Projects 25%
Quizzes/Assignment 10%
Attendance/Class Participation 10%
Work Value 10%
TOTAL 100%
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PRE TEST Landscape Installation and Maintenance
MULTIPLE CHOICE: Choose the best answer and write the letter of your
answer on the space provided.
_____ 1. The “Technical Educational and Skills Development Act of 1994” is

Republic Act?
a. RA7796 b. RA. 7766 c. RA. 7786 d. RA.7756
_____2. It has 3-4 tines used to break up hard soil around a plant.
a. grass shears b. weed cutter c. trowel d. cultivator
_____ 3. This qualification consists of competencies that a person must possess

to electronics skills.
a. LIM NC II b. EMS NC III c. CSS NC II d. EIM NC II
_____4. It is used to dig and mix soil and plant bulbs.

____ 5. It means any group of interrelated jobs or any occupation.

a. skills b. work c. trade d. job
_____6. It has a long handle and are round or square pointed for soil
purposes.
a. shovels b. spades c. scoops d. garden hoe
_____ 7. This refers to the education process designed at post-secondary and
lower tertiary levels and officially recognized as non-degree
programs. This is an instrument used for measuring dc resistance.
a. technical education c. technical vocational
b. vocational technology d. non-formal education
_____8. It cuts weeds and grasses in uncultivated areas.

_____ 9. It is the persons who direct the practice of skills towards immediate
improvement in some task;
a. trainors b. trainers c. employees d. none
_____10. It has a longer blades for soil purposes.

_____ 11. What is the code for this core competencies: Install plants supports?
a. AGR611372 b. AGR611373 c. AGR611374 d. AGR611375
_____12. It is effective in breaking up soil clods.
a. spading fork b. spades c. scoops d. garden hoe
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_____ 13. Practice career professionalism is a basic core, what is the code?
a. 5 00 311107 b. 5 00 311108 c. 5 00 311109 d. none
_____14. This common competency with Code AGR611380 is _______________.

a. Apply fertilizer (Nutrition)
b. Water/Irrigate plants
c. Control and prevent plant pest and diseases
d. Provide plant support
_____ 15. This refers to a delivery of quality technical and vocational
education which requires training to be carried out alternatively in
two venues.
a. OJT b. Apprentice
c. DS/T d. Apprenticeship
II. SEQUENCING OF EVENTS: Arrange the sequence of the following by

ranking it 1 and so on. Write the letter of your answer on the space provided.
HOW TO MAKE COMPOST (1-8)
Make layers
Cover
Aerate
Monitor temperature
Break it down
Add moisture
Neutralize odors
Add starter
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MATCHING TYPE: Match Column A (landscape design tips for creating

an enticing garden) to Column B (Picture of the landscape design tips
for creating an enticing garden ). Write the letter of your answer on the
space provided.
Column A Column B
__________ 1. The Graceful Sweep of a Curve A
__________ 2. The Mystery of the Unseen

B
__________ 3. Pooling and Channeling
C
__________ 4. Capture the View Beyond
__________ 5. The Principle of Three Depths D
__________6. Tricking the Eye
__________ 7. The Long View
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MODULE Landscape Installation
Lesson 1
Landscape Installation and Tools
Objectives:
After studying this lesson, the student should be able to:
1. define landscape installation
2. identify landscape installation tools and its uses
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MODULE Landscape Installation Tools
TOOLS USED IN LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION

What is landscaping?
Landscaping refers to any activity that modifies the visible features of an area
of land, including:
1. Living elements flora or fauna.

2. Natural elements such as landforms, terrain shape and elevation, or bodies
of water;
3. Human elements such as structures, buildings, fences or other material
objects created and/or installed by humans; and
4. Abstract elements such as the weather and lighting conditions.
Hand Tools
• Are just as important as power tools

• Should be used for their designed purposes
• Buy good quality hand tools
HAND TOOLS USES
Shovels have long handles & are

round- or square-pointed.
Spades have longer blades.
Scoops are flat with high sides.
Garden hoe: Only the bottom

edge of the blade is
sharpened
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Weeding hoe: Has two sharp prongs

on top of the blade
Grubbing hoe: Has two

narrow, sharpened, flat ends
Spading Fork: Effective in

breaking up soil clods
Pitchfork: Used to move

coarse, lightweight materials
Lawn rake: Used for clippings,

leaves, & other light debris
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Metal bow rake: Used for heavy

duty raking
Anvil pruner: Top blade is sharp

& cuts against an anvil-shaped
bottom blade
Bypass pruner: Cuts in a scissor-
like manner with two cutting
blades
Lopping shears: Used to

prune larger limbs, has 2
smaller blades with long
handles
Hedge shears: Used to prune
& shape hedges; has 2
scissor-like blades
Multi-purpose knife: Has a

smooth but sharp cutting
edge
Pruning knife: Have a curved
blade, used to remove small
stems
Bow saw: Prunes medium-

sized branches
Curved blade saw: Prunes

large branches
Pole Pruner
Used to remove tree branches that
cannot safely be reached from the
ground. Operator pulls on a rope to
cut
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Broadcast Spreaders
• Have wheel-driven gears that
turn a propeller to spread
seed or fertilizer
Hand Crank Spreaders

• Used for small areas
• The hopper contains seed or
fertilizer that is broadcast by
turning the hand crank
Sprayers
• Used to apply pesticides &
fertilizer solutions
• Hand held sprayers use
compressed air to spray
solutions
Lawn/Utility Carts are ideal

carriers for equipment &
materials
Wheelbarrows carry soil, mulch,
or rocks
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Grass shears: Used to trip grass in

areas inaccessible to a mower
Weed cutter: Cuts weeds &

grasses in uncultivated areas
Trowel: Used to dig & mix soil

& plant bulbs
Weeder: Cuts roots of weeds

below the soil surface
Cultivator: Has 3-4 tines used

to break up hard soil around
plants
• Chisels
• Files
• Hammers
• Pliers
• Screwdrivers
• Wrenches
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SELFCHECK 1 Landscape Installation Tools
CROSSWORD PUZZLE: Use the clues below to fill the crossword puzzle with
the correct Landscaping tools.
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ACTIVITY No.1 Landscape Installation Tools
Let’s do this!
Activity No. 1 : Hand Tools Safety Tips
Materials : Pictures, Long bond paper and paste
Tools : Ruler
Let’s follow this!

this! Find and search the at least 4 pictures showing hand tools and
materials safety working tips/habits and paste the pictures in column A while
in column B, write an explanation/description.
Let’s evaluate this!

CRITERIA PERCENT (%) SCORE
SIMILARITY 50
QUALITY OF 20
WORK
TIME 10
WORKVALUE 20
TOTAL SCORE
Review Questions
1. What did you learned in this activity?
2. If you will be a future landscaper, what tips will you suggest for a
person to be safe in this industry?
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ACTIVITY No.1 Landscape Installation Tools
Let’s do this!
PICTURES OF SAFETY HABITS EXPLANATION/DESCRIPTION
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MODULE Competencies
Lesson 2
Competencies for Landscape

Installation and Maintenance NC II
Objectives:
1. Understand the RA.7796
2. Familiar with the Training regulation LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION

AND MAINTENANCE NC II.
3. Identify the unit of competencies for LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION

AND MAINTENANCE NC II.
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MODULE RA. 7796
Lesson 2
REPUBLIC ACT NO. 7796 August 8, 1994

AN ACT CREATING THE TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT
AUTHORITY, PROVIDING FOR ITS POWERS, STRUCTURE AND FOR OTHER
PURPOSES
SECTION 1. Title. — This Act shall be known as the “Technical Educational and
Skills Development Act of 1994” or the “TESDA Act of 1994.”
SECTION 2. Declaration of Policy. — It is hereby declared the policy of the State

to provide relevant, accessible, high quality and efficient technical education
and skills development in support of the development of high quality Filipino
middle-level manpower responsive to and in accordance with Philippine
development goals and priorities.
The State shall encourage active participation of various concerned sectors,

particularly private enterprises, being direct participants in and immediate
beneficiaries of a trained and skilled work force, in providing technical
education and skills development opportunities.
SECTION 3. Statement of Goals and Objectives. — It is the goal and objective

of this Act to:
a) Promote and strengthen the quality of technical education and skills

development programs to attain international competitiveness.
b) Focus technical education and skills development on meeting the

changing demands for quality middle-level manpower;
c) Encourage critical and creative thinking by disseminating the scientific and

technical knowledge base of middle-level manpower development
programs;
d) Recognize and encourage the complementary roles of public and private

institutions in technical education and skills development and training systems;
and
e) Inculcate desirable values through the development of moral character

with emphasis on work ethic, self-discipline, self-reliance and nationalism.
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MODULE RA. 7796
SECTION 4. Definition of Terms. — As used in this Act:
a) “Skill” shall mean the acquired and practiced ability to carry out a task or
job;
b) “Skills Development” shall mean the process through which learners and
workers are systematically provided with learning opportunities to acquire or
upgrade, or both, their ability, knowledge and behavior pattern required as
qualifications for a job or range of jobs in a given occupational area;
c) “Technical Education” shall refer to the education process designed at
post-secondary and lower tertiary levels, officially recognized as non-degree
programs aimed at preparing technicians, para-professionals and other
categories of middle-level workers by providing them with a broad range of
general education, theoretical, scientific and technological studies, and
related job skills training;
d) “Trade” shall mean any group of interrelated jobs or any occupation which
is traditionally or officially recognized as craft or artisan in nature requiring
specific qualifications that can be acquired through work experience and/or
training;
e) “Middle-Level Manpower” refers to those :

1) who have acquired practical skills and knowledge through formal or
non-formal education and training equivalent to at least a secondary
education but preferably a post-secondary education with a corresponding
degree or diploma; or
2) skilled workers who have become highly competent in their trade or
craft as attested by industry.
f) “Private Enterprises” refers to an economic system under which property of
all kinds can be privately owned and in which individuals, alone or in
association with another, can embark on a business activity. This includes
industrial, agricultural, or agro-industrial establishments engaged in the
production, manufacturing, processing, repacking or assembly of goods
including service-oriented enterprises;
g) “Trainers” shall mean persons who direct the practice of skills towards
immediate improvement in some task;
h) “Trainors/trainers” shall mean persons who provide training to trainers aimed
at developing the latter’s capacities for imparting attitudes, knowledge, skills
and behavior patterns required for specific jobs, tasks, occupations or group
of related occupations;
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MODULE RA. 7796
i) “Trainees” shall mean persons who are participants in a vocational,

administrative or technical training program for the purpose of acquiring and
developing job-related skills;
j) “Apprenticeship” training within employment with compulsory related

theoretical instructions involving a contract between an apprentice and an
employer on an approved apprenticeable occupation;
k) “Apprentice” is a person undergoing training for an approved

apprenticeable occupation during an established period assured by an
apprenticeship agreement; l) “Apprenticeship Agreement” is a contract
wherein a prospective employer binds himself to train the apprentice who in
turn accepts the terms of training for a recognized apprenticeable occupation
emphasizing the rights, duties and responsibilities of each party;
m) “Apprenticeable Occupation” is an occupation officially endorsed by a

tripartite body and approved for apprenticeship by the Authority;
n) “Learners” refer to persons hired as trainees in semi-skilled and other

industrial occupations which are non-apprenticeable. Learnership programs
must be approved by the Authority.
o) “User-Led” or “Market-Driven Strategy” refers to a strategy which promotes

strengthened linkages between educational/training institutions and industry
to ensure that appropriate skills and knowledge are provided by the
educational system;
p) “Dual System/Training” refers to a delivery of quality technical and

vocational education which requires training to be carried out alternatively in
two venues: In school and in the production plant. In-school training provides
the trainee the theoretical foundation, basic training, guidance and human
formation, while in-plant training develops his skills and proficiency in actual
work conditions as it continues to inculcate personal discipline and work
values;
q) “Levy Grant System” refers to a legal contribution from participating

employers who would be beneficiaries of the program (often as a percentage
of the payroll) which is subsequently turned over or rebated to enterprises
offering employee training programs.
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MODULE TR - LIM NC II
TRAINING REGULATIONS FOR
LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE NC II
Section 1 LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION AND

MAINTENANCE NC II QUALIFICATION
The Landscape Installation and Maintenance NC II Qualification consists

of competencies that a person must achieve that will enable him/her to install
and maintain landscape designs for all types of development projects
including residential, commercial, industrial, institutional and open space
areas. It also includes competency in growing plants and trees with a goal of
creating beautiful and environmentally healthy landscapes. Workers at this
level will be working under the supervision of landscape supervisor / manager.
This Qualification is packaged from the competency map of Agriculture

and Fishery Sector as shown in Annex A.
The Units of Competency comprising this Qualification include the

following:
Code BASIC COMPETENCIES

Participate in workplace
5 00 311105
communication
5 00 311106 Work in team environment
5 00 311107 Practice career professionalism
Practice occupational health and
5 00 311108
safety procedures
Code COMMON COMPETENCIES

Apply safety measures in farm and
AGR321201
nursery operations
Use farm and nursery tools and
AGR321202
equipment
AGR321203 Perform estimation and calculations
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CORE COMPETENCIES
Code
Installation / Construction
Provide site clearing and grubbing
AGR611371
activities
AGR611372 Perform rough grading operations
AGR611373 Perform site preparation activities

Install plants at designated locations
AGR611374
as designed
AGR611375 Install plant supports
CORE COMPETENCIES
Code
Maintenance
AGR611376 Trim and prune landscape plants
AGR611377 Perform weeding and cultivation
AGR611378 Apply fertilizer (Nutrition)
AGR611379 Water/Irrigate plants

Control and prevent plant pest and
AGR611380
diseases
AGR611381 Provide plant support
AGR611382 Perform lawn grass maintenance
AGR611383 Perform re-planting activities

Collect, dispose and utilize organic
AGR611384
waste
A person who has achieved this Qualification is competent to be:
• Landscape Gardener
https://www.tesda.gov.ph/Downloadables/TR%20-
%20Landscape%20Installation%20and%20Maintenance%20NC%20II.pdf
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Guide questions:
1. What is RA. 7796 and its purpose? Explain
2. Differentiate the basic, common and core competencies?
3. List down the competencies under the basic, common and core?
Core Competencies
Basic Common
competencies Competencies
Landscape
Maintenance
Installation
1. 1. 1. 1.
2. 2. 2. 2.
3. 3. 3. 3.
4. 4. 4. 4.
5. 5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
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ACTIVITY No. 2 TR - LIM NC II
Let’s do this!
Activity No. 2 : LIM NC II Competencies
Materials : Long bond paper and paste
Tools : Ruler

this! 1. Find and search pictures that describe the basic, common
and core competencies. Paste your picture in column A. Use separate paper
if needed.
PICTURE BASIC COMPETENCIES
Participate in workplace
communication
Work in team environment
Practice career
professionalism
Practice occupational health

and safety procedures
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PICTURE COMMON COMPETENCIES
Prepare construction materials and

tools
Observe procedures, specifications

and manuals of instruction
Perform mensurations and

calculations
Maintain tools and equipment
CORE COMPETENCIES
PICTURE
LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION
Provide site clearing and grubbing

activities
Perform rough grading operations
Perform site preparation activities
Install plants at designated locations

as designed
Install plant supports
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CORE COMPETENCIES
PICTURE
MAINTENANCE
Trim and prune landscape plants
Perform weeding and cultivation
Apply fertilizer (Nutrition)
Water/Irrigate plants
Control and prevent plant pest and

diseases
Provide plant support
Perform lawn grass maintenance
Perform re-planting activities
Collect, dispose and utilize organic

waste
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SELF-CHECK 2 TR – LIM NC II
MULTIPLE CHOICE: Choose the letter of the best answer and write your

Republic Act?
a. RA7796 b. RA. 7766 c. RA. 7786 d. RA.7756
to landscape gardener skills.
a. LIM NC II b. EPAS-NC II c. CS-NC II d. CT-NC II
____ 3. It means any group of interrelated jobs or any occupation
a. 5 00 311107 b. 5 00 311108 c. 5 00 311109 d. none
_____ 8. This refers to persons hired, in semi-skilled and other industrial
occupations which are non-apprentice able.
a. student b. learners c. teachers d. worker
_____9. This common competency with Code AGR611380 is ________________.
two venues.
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MODULE Site clearing and grubbing
Lesson 3
Site Clearing and Grubbing
Objectives:
1. define site clearing and grubbing
2. identify the site clearing basics
3. identify the site grubbing basics
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Site clearing and grubbing

Have you ever wondered what the
land your home sits on used to look like?
Chances are, it looked nothing like it
currently does now. Clearing and
grubbing a landscape is the first order of
business for a developer. What is clearing
and grubbing? This refers to land clearing
basics performed by anyone who has
purchased undeveloped land they wish
to develop. How about clearing land yourself? Will it require clearing and
grubbing?
What Does it Mean to Clear and Grub?
Once a site has been surveyed and any necessary demo has been done,
vegetation and surface debris are removed by clearing and grubbing the
landscape. Clearing means what it sounds like, removing all vegetation.
Grubbing refers to the removal of the roots that remain in the soil after clearing.
Grubbing removes logs, brush, and debris. Stumps are then ground or removed
with a root rake or similar machine. This requires some heavy machinery such
as a bulldozer, dump trucks, compactors, and scrapers. Once these land
clearing basics are complete, the site is ready for drain installation and
grading.
Land Clearing Basics
What about clearing land yourself? This commonly happens when

homeowners decide to increase the size of their backyard space or even
when adding a new garden area. If you have a small plot of land to clear with
just a few trees and/or shrubs, it may simply only take a day and a few tools,
such as a shovel and hand saw. For larger areas, the big toys may need to
come out. These include chain saws, bulldozers, backhoes, or other large
equipment. You may need to hire a company that specializes in clearing and
grubbing a landscape if the job seems too large.
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Steps to clearing your backyard:
1. Know the lay of the land

2. Create a plan
3. Organise machines and any missing equipment
4. Knock down trees
5. Remove tree stumps
6. Conduct a clean out of the area
7. Excavate topsoil
8. Fill in the site, level, and compact soil
9. Dispose of garden waste and excess soil
How to clear out your backyard:
Step 1 - Know the lay of the land
Contact Dial Before You Dig to acquire information on utilities cables and
pipes that might be running underneath your yard. This information will
dictate the sort of work you’ll be able to do, where you might need to avoid
excavation in certain parts of your yard or look into hiring a non-destructive
digging specialist to perform hydro excavation around the utilities.
Step 2 - Create a plan
Undertake project area measurements and identify the parts of your yard
you want to clear, noting the number of trees. Also take note of access to
your yard, as some machines may be too wide to access some backyards.
Contact your local council to see if a permit is required to remove particular
trees, additionally check to see if a restrictive Vegetation Protection Order
has been placed on your property.
Step 3 - Organise machines and any missing equipment
Undertake a search on iSeekplant to find a mini excavator or excavator, a

mulcher or wood chipper plant or add-on, a stump grinder, and a removal
truck. Note that the scope and scale of your land clearing project will
determine what machinery you need. If the project area is small, you may
only need an axe, shovel and a mini excavator.
Step 4 - Knock down trees
Depending on the number and type of trees you have - there a few options
when it comes to getting trees down. First off, you could use
a hired excavator with either a muncher add-on or saw add-on, depending
on the sort of trees you're dealing with. Alternatively, start off by knocking or
cutting off the branches of the trees with a lopper, then use an axe or
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chainsaw to knock the trees down to a stump. Note that you will need to hire
a trained tree removalist/lopper if a tree is taller than 5m or where it may
present risk to yourself or your neighbors.
Step 5 - Remove tree stump
Once you've knocked the trees down to their stumps, depending on the size
of the stumps and roots, you can either use a stump grinder or remove them
manually,
To remove tree stumps and roots without a stump grinder, dig around the
stump (dig further out from the stump to avoid close roots), once you expose
the upper root system begin to remove it by hand with the help of an axe,
pruning saw or cutters, from here cut the lower roots and pull the stump out,
proceed to then fill the hole with soil.
Step 6 - Conduct a full clean out of the area
Collect all stumps, fallen branches, leaves, as well as any easy-to-remove

plants and bushes. Move this collection away from the project area.
Step 7 - Excavate topsoil
Use an excavator to clear out remaining foliage and topsoil. Excavate topsoil
with a digger, mini excavator or excavator, where the dig depth will depend
on what your future plans are. Future plans might include laying down fresh
lawn, building a vegetable garden, a shed, a driveway, a pool, or a patio. If
you are laying lawn, be sure to strip around 150mm deep (six inches) of soil,
and then fill with loam soil, or a mixture of 80% sand and 20% loam.
Step 8 - Fill in the site, level, and compact soil
Once excavated, fill the site with the desired soil, loam, or clean fill, level and
compact the soil with a compactor. Once you’ve excavated the site to the
right depth, you can fill it with loam soil for a new lawn or simply transition to
one of our other DIY projects, like building a driveway (concrete slab) and
building a shed.
Step 9 - Dispose of garden waste and excess soil
For soil, you can take it to the tip or find a company that collects clean fill.
You have three options when it comes to garden waste disposal. The first is to
use a ute, trailer, or removal truck to transport and dump your garden waste
at a tip. The second option, if there isn’t much garden waste (leaves, plants,
wood), is to simply place it into your green bin. The third option is to process
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your garden waste through a mulcher, which will give you mulch to use later
on.
What machines are used to clear land?
• Mulchers
• Stump grinders
• Mini excavators, excavators, or dingos
• Removal trucks
• What materials and equipment will I need to clear my yard?
• Axe or chainsaw
• Gloves
• Sunscreen
• Wheelbarrow
• Measuring tape
• Shovel
• Tree lopper
• Machine attachments
• Mulcher or wood chipper
• Stump grinder
• Mini excavator, excavator, or dingo
• Removal truck
COMPOST 101: HOW TO COMPOST

Get the dirt on composting: the benefits, what to include (and what not to),
and finding the right balance
A solid foundation is key

to the success of any endeavor,
and gardening is no exception.
Like humans, plants need good
nutrition to grow, thrive, and be
better able to fend off the
effects of harmful pests and
diseases. Good soil, which
provides the foundation for a
healthy garden, seldom occurs
naturally, but has to be created.
One of the best ways to
enhance the fertility and consistency of the existing soil is to make your own
compost.
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Nearly all native soils are deficient in nutrients and tilth (physical
condition), with most being too clay, rocky, lean, or sandy, resulting in a less-
than-ideal environment for plants to grow. Enhancing the soil with compost
and other nutrient-rich substances such as livestock manure or worm
castings will improve soil structure, texture, aeration, and its ability to retain
water. It also helps with erosion control, pH balance, and healthy root
development.
WHAT IS COMPOST?
In its raw form, compost consists of carbon-based brown matter such as

dead leaves and small twigs, and nitrogen-based green matter such as
grass clippings, fresh plant trimmings, and plant-based kitchen waste.
Composting is the process of transforming this raw material through
decomposition with the assistance of beneficial insects, earthworms, and
microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) into a nutrient-dense, soil-like matter
that’s added to existing soil.
THE PROCESS OF COMPOSTING
Composting can be as simple as allowing a neglected pile of plant debris to

break down on its own, which is referred to as passive or cold composting.
However, this can take up to a year or more, with inconsistent results.
Active or hot composting speeds up decomposition by introducing oxygen

(turning the pile), adding moisture, and providing the proper carbon-to-
nitrogen ratio. This allows microorganisms to do their job more efficiently and
raises the core temperature to 120-160 degrees F, accelerating the process
by “cooking” the pile. By employing these tactics, composting can be
accomplished in as little as 1 to 3 months.
WHAT TO INCLUDE IN COMPOST
Like a good food recipe, it’s important to have the right mix of ingredients.
Carbon and nitrogen are the two essential elements for composting, and
the proper carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is crucial for efficient decomposition.
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The microorganisms responsible for breaking down plant matter digest

carbon as an energy source, while nitrogen is ingested for protein synthesis.
An efficient compost pile should contain more carbon than nitrogen. Too
much carbon can slow down decomposition, while too much nitrogen can
result in unpleasant smells. The optimal ratio is around 2 to 3 parts brown
matter (carbon) to 1 part green (nitrogen) by volume.
Carbon sources include: dead leaves, woody branches, conifer needles,

bark dust, sawdust, brown paper bags, shredded office paper, newspaper,
cardboard, coffee filters, straw, and wood ash produced from fireplaces
and wood stoves.
Nitrogen sources include: freshly cut grass clippings and other green plant
trimmings, fruit and vegetable kitchen scraps, used coffee grounds,
eggshells, seaweed, kelp, blood meal, and livestock manures.
HOW TO MAKE COMPOST
1. Break it down: Cut or shred plant material down into smaller pieces to
increase the surface area, which allows microorganisms to digest it
more quickly.
2. Make layers: Lay down several inches of twigs or straw first to provide
drainage and aeration on the bottom. Alternate layers of brown
(carbon) and green (nitrogen) materials on top of each other—much
like a pan of lasagna—so that materials are evenly distributed and
readily available to microorganisms. Finish off with a top layer of brown
matter to help reduce unwanted odors. Fill a small composter as full as
possible, or create a pile three-feet deep.
3. Add starter: Activators, while not necessary, can be added to kick-start
decomposition. Natural activators include chicken manure, comfrey
leaves, grass clippings, and fresh weeds (without seed). Other
activators or starters are commercially made and available online.
4. Add moisture: Water the pile just enough to moisten, then repeat
occasionally if you don’t receive regular rain. Too much water can
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make the pile soggy and cool the core temperature, slowing
decomposition. Not enough water can slow or halt decomposition
entirely. The consistency should be similar to that of a wet sponge that
has been wrung out. To check the moisture content, pick up a handful
of compost and squeeze it. If water trickles out, the pile is too wet. If
there are no droplets, the pile is too dry. A few droplets when squeezed
indicates that the moisture content is just about right.
5. Cover: Lay tarps, plastic sheeting, or wood over an open pile to retain
heat and moisture.
6. Aerate: Turn the compost every 1 to 3 weeks with a pitchfork or spin if
you have a tumbler. This is also a good time to add more water if
necessary to ensure that all parts of the pile stay damp.
7. Neutralize odors: Add lime or calcium if necessary to deter flies and
neutralize odors. If the compost develops an ammonia-like smell, add
more carbon-rich materials such as dried leaves or straw.
8. Monitor temperature: The internal temperature of the pile can be
monitored with a compost thermometer.
HOW TO USE FINISHED COMPOST
For new beds or borders: Amend the soil prior to planting. Add a layer of
compost 1 to 3 inches thick on top of the existing soil and mix it in to a depth
of 6 to 12 inches.
For established beds: Add a fresh layer of compost 1 to 2 inches thick on top
of the soil in fall after plants die back, or in early spring before plants break
dormancy. In addition to feeding plants, the compost layer suppresses
weeds and retains moisture.
For vegetable plots including raised beds: Dig or till in 1 to 2 inches of new
compost at the start of the growing season.
ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS OF COMPOST
With kitchen and food waste comprising up to one-third of all household

garbage, composting is a great way to reduce your garbage, as well as
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your carbon footprint. When organic matter ends up in landfills, it lacks the
necessary conditions for optimal decomposition, creating harmful methane
gas in the process which contributes to global warming and climate
change. Kitchen countertop compost bins make it easy to store your scraps
before adding them to your compost bin or pile.
DON'T COMPOST THIS
• The waste of carnivorous animals—including dogs and cats—can

contain parasites and dangerous bacteria that are difficult to kill with
traditional composting methods.
• Meat, bones, and fish scraps are slow to decompose. They can also
attract pests and cause unpleasant odors.
• Oil, fat, or kitchen grease are slow to break down and attract pests, as
well as cause odors.
• Big chunks of wood break down too slowly.
• Pressure-treated wood or railroad ties contain harmful chemicals.
• Plant matter such as lawn clippings that have been treated with
chemical pesticides or fertilizers should be omitted. It’s important to
produce clean organic compost—especially if you’re growing food—
so that you’re not exposing yourself to chemicals that can be
hazardous to your health.
• Keep out seeds of invasive plants such as pokeweed and butterfly
bush, as well as weed seeds, which can germinate if compost doesn’t
get hot enough for a sufficient amount of time. It takes 30 days at 140
degrees F to kill most weed seeds.
• Don’t introduce diseased plant debris, as pathogens can remain alive
in finished compost and be spread to healthy plants in the garden.
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TYPES OF COMPOSTERS
MANUFACTURED COMPOST BINS OR TUMBLERS

Manufactured compost barrels or bins are
sold mainly online, and through some
nurseries and garden centers. These
containers, which are generally made of
wood, metal, wire mesh, or plastic, are
designed to allow air and water in while
keeping pests out. Some are stationary,
where the compost is turned by
hand. Compost tumblers turn the material
over with a spinning mechanism. These are
suitable for smaller urban yards and apartments with a patio or balcony.
DIY COMPOSTERS
You can also make a DIY compost bin from
something as simple as a garbage can,
plastic storage container, or milk crate. Get
creative and come up with your own
unique system. Check out our DIY Compost
Bin Pinterest board for more ideas.
MULTI-BIN SYSTEMS
If you have a large yard or acreage and
anticipate making a lot of compost, you
can make a pile or build a more elaborate
system. This can consist of one or more bins,
usually made of wood, wire mesh, metal, or
cinder blocks. A three-bin system allows for
continuous production, as compost in
various stages of decomposition is
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transferred from one bin to the next. The first bin is for fresh plant matter, the
second for compost as it’s breaking down, and the third for compost in its
final phase that will eventually be added to the garden.
ADDITIONAL TIPS
Find out what your soil needs: A soil test kit analyzes your soil for pH and
nutrient levels, providing the information you need to correct any
deficiencies. More sophisticated analysis is available through private
companies, as well as many local extension services. Repeat testing every 1
to 3 years.
Keep pH balance in check: Soil pH, which refers to acidity or alkalinity,
affects a plant’s ability to take up nutrients from the soil through its roots.
Some plants, such as rhododendrons and azaleas prefer acidic soil, while
many vegetables prefer slightly alkaline conditions. Other plants do best
with neutral pH, or are tolerant of a wide range of conditions. Regions that
receive more rainfall tend to have slightly acidic soil, while dry climates tend
towards alkaline conditions. Adjust soil pH by adding lime to increase
alkalinity, or sulphur to increase acidity.
Worm composting: Another method of producing organic matter for your
garden is through vermicomposting. Raising red worms—also called red
wigglers—in an enclosed bin produces castings (waste) that are some of
the most nutrient-rich matter available in nature. The process is simple:
Provide moist bedding (shredded newspaper or cardboard) and add
kitchen scraps. The worms will eat their way through the material, producing
waste in the process. These castings can then be added to your
garden. Worms and bins and can be purchased online.
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SELF-CHECK 3 Site clearing and grubbing
Let’s do this!
I. SEQUENCING OF EVENTS: Arrange the sequence of the following by
How to clear out your backyard: (1-9)
Organise machines and any missing

equipment
Knock down trees
Know the lay of the land
Create a plan
Conduct a full clean out of the area
Remove tree stump
Fill in the site, level, and compact soil
Dispose of garden waste and excess soil
Excavate topsoil

Make layers
Cover
Aerate
Monitor temperature
Break it down
Add moisture
Neutralize odors
Add starter
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ACTIVITY No. 3 Site clearing and grubbing
Let’s do this!
Activity No. 3 : Composting
Materials Long bond paper
Tools : Pencil, Sign pen Eraser & Ruler

this!
Complete this
List down the following different things that cannot be used to make a compost.
NO. Not allowed Composting materials
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
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MODULE Site Preparation
Lesson 4
Site Preparation
Objectives:
1. understand site preparation procedure
2. identify the landscape design
3. identify the landscape principles
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Site Preparation
Landscapers often disregard the impact soil has on the health and vigor
of their plants. Soil preparation isn’t the most thrilling aspect of planting a
garden, but it’s certainly one of the most important. If your soil isn’t right, your
garden will struggle to reach its full potential.
Start by digging up a scoop of soil and examining its texture in your hands.
“A garden is a reflection of the quality of its soil. Gardens filled with

beautiful soil have a vitality about them that we can almost feel,” says
landscape designer and author Jan Johnsen.
Achieving that vitality requires understanding the chemistry and
composition of your soil and creating the perfect environment for fertile
plant growth. Good soil management is a continual process, but once you
attend to the basics, your soil will do most of the work itself.
Know Your Soil Type
Before you begin planting, dig up a scoop of soil and take a look at its
texture. Is it dense and heavy and clump together when wet? Or is it loose
and free flowing, like play sand? Maybe it’s somewhere in between, feeling
somewhat sticky but crumbling easily, like a freshly baked cookie.
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All soils are a mixture of mineral particles — primarily clay, sand, and
silt. Often they will contain higher amounts of one type of particle relative to
the others. That doesn’t make them bad growing mediums, but it will affect
their density, drainage rate, and capacity to hold nutrients.
With each soil type, there are trade-offs. Here’s a quick overview:
• Clay soils have tiny, dense particles that hold large reserves of moisture
and nutrients. However, clay soil also drains slowly and can become
hard and compacted when dry.
• Sandy soils are just the opposite, with large particles that water moves
through easily — along with important nutrients.
• Silts have fine particle sizes that pack together tightly, inhibiting
drainage and air circulation.
• Loam is the ideal soil for most plants; it contains a balance of all three
mineral particles and is rich in humus (what’s left after organic matter
decomposes).
If you have poor soil, consider building a raised garden bed and filling it with
a well-balanced soil mix.
Adding organic matter is the best way to make your soil more loam-
like and improve its structure. Another option is to build a raised garden
bed and fill it with a well-balanced soil mix. Or take the simple approach by
growing plants that do well in your soil type, such as choosing drought-
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tolerant plants for sandy soils. You can grow a garden successfully in any soil,
as long as the plant’s roots are accustomed to the conditions.
Test the pH of Your Soil
The pH of your soil is one of the most important factors in determining

its fertility. If your soil is too alkaline (with a pH above 7.5) or to acidic (with a
pH below 5.5), that can make a big difference in which nutrients are
available to your plants.
Although most plants will tolerate a wide range of pH levels, they

prefer slightly acidic soils (with a pH of 6 to 7) because important nutrients
such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium dissolve
readily in that environment. In soils that are too acidic or alkaline, your plants
may get too much of some nutrients and not enough of others.
When testing the pH of your soil, take samples from different sites in your
garden because the pH can vary even within a small backyard.
How do you test your soil pH? Here are two options:
• DIY Soil Test Kit: For the quickest results, you can buy an instant-read soil
test kit or electronic tester.
• Professional Soil Analysis: But if you’re starting a new garden, it’s a
good idea to have your soil tested professionally. The soil samples will
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be sent to a lab, which will analyze your soil pH and nutrient content as
well as its capacity to retain nutrients.
Be sure to take soil samples from different sites in your garden because
the pH can vary quite a bit, even within a small backyard. If your pH reading
is low (acidic), you can correct it by adding lime to your soil. If it’s too high,
add powdered sulfur or aluminum sulfate. Another option is to choose plants
that will thrive at the natural pH level of your soil, such as acid-loving
rhododendrons or azaleas.
Amend with Organic Matter
Any type of soil can be improved by the addition of organic matter.
Here are three common amendments:
• Composted yard waste

• Manure
• Fallen leaves
In sandy soils, organic matter improves water-holding capacity and the
retention of nutrients. In clay soils, it loosens up the minerals that become
sticky when the soil is wet and hard when the soil is dry. And in all soils, it
provides a rich supply of slow-release nutrients for your plants as well as food
for beneficial soil organisms. Over time, a well-amended soil will provide
most of the nutrients your plants need, reducing fertilizer requirements.
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Most soil amendments work best if you work them into the soil in the fall, so
they are well decomposed before planting the following spring.
Most soil amendments work best if you work them into the soil in the
fall, so they are well decomposed before planting the following spring,
explains organic gardener Elizabeth Stell, author of Secrets to Great Soil. To
get the organic matter down to root level, use a garden fork to mix the
material into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. In vegetable gardens, which
usually contain annual or biennial plants, you can amend your soil each
season. Perennial gardens should be amended prior to planting so you
won’t disturb the plant roots. Many perennials must be dug up every few
years for division, providing a good opportunity to work in additional organic
matter.
Enlist the Help of Microorganisms
Don’t simply think of soil as dirt. Think of it as microscopic world teeming

with a vast array of organisms that breathe life into your garden. These
organisms in your soil ecosystem — including earthworms, insects, fungi, and
a multitude of beneficial bacteria — act as Mother Nature’s recycling crew,
converting dead leaves and plant debris into readily available nutrients. They
also help to aerate the soil and convert organic matter into humus.
“To enlist the help of microorganisms, create favorable conditions. As

these are the same conditions that promote optimum plant growth, you’ll be
doing your garden a double favor,” says Stell. To encourage soil life, she
recommends keeping your soil evenly moist and well aerated and minimizing
the use of pesticides. “Many of these are toxic to soil life as well as to whatever
insects you’re trying to control,” she says. Also avoid the use of concentrated
fast-acting fertilizers, which can harm earthworms and other soil organisms.
Instead, use less-concentrated organic fertilizers and slow-release formulas.
Mulch with Care
Mulching allows you to add organic matter to the soil without disturbing
plant roots because you simply spread it over the surface and let it
decompose naturally.
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Mulch also helps to:
• Retain moisture
• Suppress weed growth
• Keep the soil cooler during the summer
• Improve soil aeration
But mulch also has its pitfalls, especially if you use the wrong type of
mulching material and apply it too thickly. It can change the chemical
composition of the soil and leach micronutrients that are harmful to plants. It
can also create continually moist conditions that lead to fungal diseases of
plant roots, especially in wet soils and humid climates.
A variety of organic materials can make effective mulches, from compost

to cocoa bark. However, mulches aren’t created equal when it comes to
how they impact the biological activity of the soil and how quickly they
break down.
Favor a No-Till Approach
Gardeners have widely varying opinions about the benefits of tilling. Many
are convinced that turning over and breaking up the soil every year creates
a favorable environment for their plants because it helps to mix in organic
matter and improve drainage. Others say that tilling is a waste of time and
may actually do more harm than good — and often they are right.
Tilling has a number of drawbacks. It can encourage the growth of weeds

by bringing dormant seeds to the surface and exposing them to sunlight. It
can disturb the beneficial burrowing activities of earthworms — the best free
labor you can get for loosening and aerating your soil. It can also interfere
with the activity of important soil microorganisms. Despite these negatives,
tilling is still a viable option if you need to work organic matter and nutrients
into sticky clay soil or a new garden bed that’s heavily compacted. After
that initial deep tilling, you can often let nature take its course to improve
the structure of your soil.
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8 LANDSCAPE DESIGN TIPS FOR CREATING AN ENTICING GARDEN

Enhance your garden with these design tips, tricks and techniques
Whether you’re new to gardening, or

you’ve been honing your skills for
years, the following design secrets will
help you create a more effective and
enticing garden.
1. The Graceful Sweep of a Curve

2. The Mystery of the Unseen
3. Pooling and Channeling
4. Capture the View Beyond
5. The Principle of Three Depths
6. Tricking the Eye
7. The Long View
8. Irresistible Lookouts
1. The Graceful Sweep of a Curve
The sweep of a curve lends a gracious air

to a landscape. Your eye cannot help but
follow it around. By laying out a plant bed
or even a walkway in a strong, playful line
you invite people to explore. And a
curved flower bed combines color and
shape to make a garden more enticing.
A curved plant bed of annual flowers such

as red salvia and white impatiens
combines the elegance of a gracious line
with the vibrancy of color.
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My favorite way to lay out a curve in a garden is to use a 100 foot tape
measure as a compass of sorts. I lay out a uniformly shaped curve from a
central radius point. Then, using ‘marking’ paint (not spray paint!) or a line of
powdered limestone, I mark the ground as I pivot around. The resulting
gentle curve creates an even “disposition” to a landscape scene.
2. The Mystery of the Unseen
If you want to make a small outdoor space more interesting or appear

larger, you can use an ancient Japanese design technique known
as miegakure or ‘hide and reveal.’ This entails partially obscuring a view or
features in a garden to create an illusion of distance. A half-hidden vista
also encourages people to explore a space because the ‘mystery of the
unseen’ is quite tantalizing. If you see only a partial view of a landscape you
will invariably move forward to see what is ahead.
These stone and gravel steps

curve down and out of sight
beckoning you to go further.
The light-color of the steps make
them stand out in this shady
spot and their width allows
plants to grow over the edges
without limiting room to walk.
You can hide parts of your
garden by planting a leafy
plant in a strategic spot, angling a walk or set of steps or locating a
mounded plant bed in front of the view. You can even use shadows to
darken an area which makes it appear to recede in the distance.
3. Pooling and Channeling
People move through space in the same way that water flows—it moves
rapidly through a narrow channel and slows when it flows into a larger,
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wider pool. Similarly, people move faster in a narrow walk and slow down or
pause when they arrive at an opening. Knowing this, you can use a design
technique called, 'pooling and channeling,' to lead and direct people
through a space.
cThe grassed walk, or ‘channel,’

leads to a fenced-in round
overlook. The stone paving and
the round shape of the ‘pool’
invites people to pause and look
down into the wooded slope
below. So, when you lay out a
walk, think about the areas
where you might want people
to stop and enjoy the view. Widen the walk or create a larger stopping
area here to encourage them to pause. You can even place some chairs
here, telling them to stay a while.
You can also widen the intersection where two walkways meet. Conversely,
if you want people to move rapidly through a space, keep the walks fairly
narrow.
4. Capture the View Beyond
In Japan, they use a design technique called ‘borrowed scenery’ to make a

small outdoor space more interesting. They incorporate a view of a feature,
large or small, that lies beyond the garden to carry the eye out. You can
‘borrow’ a view of a distant building, mountain or just a neighbor’s nearby
pine or crabapple tree.
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I trimmed back this red leaved Japanese Maple to reveal the front door; its
color almost matches the fall color of the tree—another reason to borrow
that view! Photo by: Jan Johnsen.
In order to borrow scenery, you may have
to keep a fence lower or a hedge trimmed
to a certain height so you can see over
them. Or you might have to trim back the
branches of a wide spreading tree in order
to reveal something beyond it. The
Japanese have four categories of
‘borrowed scenery’ that relate to their
location:
o Far - view of a distant mountain or similar

o Near - a feature just beyond a fence
o High - looking up above the trees
o Low - something low or through an opening
5. The Principle of Three Depths
We all know the words ‘foreground’ and ‘background’ but have you heard
of ‘middle ground?’ It separates the front from rear and is essential for a
compelling view. This is called ‘The Principle of Three Depths' and is used in
Asian landscape painting. George Rowley, describes it in his book, Principles
of Chinese Painting:
"The Chinese perfected the principle of three depths according to which
spatial depth was marked by a foreground, a middle distance, and far
distance, each parallel to the picture plane, so that the eyes leapt from one
distance to the next through a void of space…"
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The principle of three depths is well illustrated here—in this scene, the red
roses are in the
foreground, the grass
steps make up the middle
ground and the house in
the background is the
third ‘depth.’ A long view,
therefore, is more
interesting with some-
thing placed in a central
zone where the eye can
rest. It also increases the
perceived depth by providing a central reference point.
6. Tricking the Eye
In a long perspective view, the lines of a

walk seem to converge, the farther away
they travel, the closer they become. This
visual cue creates a sense of depth in any
outdoor space. You can use this trick in a
small outdoor space by slightly angling
the lines of a walk inward, making it
appear longer than it actually is. You can
do this also with a plant bed or pergola.
The key is to angle it in very slightly to
appear as a natural perspective.
This stony drystream appears lengthier

because it narrows on one end and is
covered in foliage. You can apply this
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trick to plant beds that border a lawn. If the bed lines angle inward, the lawn
between them appears a little deeper than it really is.
7. The Long View
Long, straight views inexorably lead the eye and you cannot help but follow
its line to the end. Therefore, grab the lengthiest straight line you can in an
outdoor space and use it to its best advantage. A long view may involve
looking diagonally across your yard or down a slope. Russell Page, the
celebrated English landscape designer, wrote about creating long views in
his book, The Education of a Gardener (published 1962):
"Where a site suggests to me a long straight axis, I try to keep this axis as
narrow as I can, proportionately to the area I have to deal with….Such
straight lines focus the attention and give direction to a garden design —
you may interpret them in a hundred ways."
I created this long view as

a promenade. Walking
here, you can enjoy the
flower border of deer
resistant
white Angelonia ‘Serena’
and blue Ageratum but
your eye goes straight to
the gate and steps at the
end.
8. Irresistible Lookouts
A lookout is one of the most exciting areas in a landscape. Elevated

locations such as the top of a slope, a rock or a bridge, can serve as a
‘prospect’ where we can stop and enjoy a view. It seems to be a universal
urge to climb a hill and look out from a high point upon the scene below.
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Lookouts and overlooks all

share one thing in common—a
high perch. The example shown
here looks down on a watery
view of a pond.
LANDSCAPE DESIGN PRINCIPLES FOR RESIDENTIAL GARDENS

Eight rules for creating a satisfying garden that is neither fussy nor constraining
01: OBEY THE "LAW" OF SIGNIFICANT ENCLOSURE
Yes, this one’s a “law,” not just a rule! It addresses the root meaning of
garden, which is “enclosure.” This, to me, is absolutely critical in creating a
sense of refuge and of feeling oneself within nature’s embrace. The law of
significant enclosure says that we feel enclosed when the vertical edge of a
space is at least one-third the length of the horizontal space we’re
inhabiting. Probably derived from behavioral psychology studies, this rule
came to me from a professor in graduate school, and it was one of the best
things I learned.
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On this project in Pacific Palisades, CA, an existing and overgrown row of

ficus was reduced by half knowing it would still more than adequately
enclose the patio.
Just yesterday, as I was starting the design of a patio that I wanted to
separate from an adjacent play area, it gave me instant guidance for how
tall a hedge I would need: the area was 17 feet wide, and so my hedge
should be at least 6 feet. Sit near a tree in the park, or a wall, and gradually
edge away, and you’ll see how it works. Of course, there are times when
the point of a landscape design is a monumental sense of scale or view, but
the best gardens, whatever their size, modulate a feeling of enclosure and
openness, and this rule will help.
02: FOLLOW THE REGULATING LINE
My formal architectural education also introduced me to the concept of

the “regulating line.” The idea is that an element of architecture (for
example, a doorway, or a building edge, even a window mullion) or a
distinctive landscape feature (prominent tree, existing pool, property
boundary) can “generate” an imaginary line that helps connect and
organize the design. For example, in laying out one backyard, I projected
the lines of its building addition into the garden space and then aligned the
swimming pool and wooden walkway with those lines. The result is orderly
and cohesive, even after being softened with planting. “A regulating line,”
wrote the great architect (and theoretician) Le Corbusier, “is an assurance
against capriciousness…It confers on the work the quality of rhythm…The
choice of a regulating line fixes the fundamental geometry of the work....”
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The decking on a different

project in Pacific Palisades,
CA, creates a regulating
line that is parallel to the
plane create by the gray
wall of the house in the
upper right of the image.
Another regulating line is
created by the edge of the
pool running parallel to the
glass window on the home.
These lines intersect at the
base of the tree.
Le Corbusier hits on the two aspects (a bit paradoxical, perhaps) that

make the regulating line so valuable. First is the idea of underlying order:
that the garden, for all its naturalness, or wildness, is founded on strong
principles—what’s sometimes known in garden circles as “good bones.”
Second, that regulating lines—at least as I employ them—are subjective; it’s
the designer who identifies and manipulates them to create the garden.
And I’d say that the use of the regulating line, more than any other
concept, separates professional from amateur design.
03: USE THE GOLDEN RECTANGLE TO GET PROPORTIONS RIGHT
Certain rules help us refine design. One is the Golden Ratio which is a ratio
of proportion that’s been observed in everything from the Great Pyramids at
Giza to the Greek Parthenon and has been used throughout history as a
guide to a pleasing sense of balance and order. The practical application
that I make of the Golden Ratio involves its sibling, the Golden Rectangle, in
which the ratio of the short side to the long side is equal to the ratio of the
long side to the sum of both sides (a/b = b/a+b)—you probably didn’t know
that landscape architects had to learn math. Numerically, the Golden
Rectangle ratio is close to 1: 1.6, a proportion I regularly use to lay out
terraces, patios, arbors, and lawns. The raised beds in my vegetable garden
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are 5 by 8 feet. It’s a

rectangular proportion
that always looks good—
they don’t call it golden
for nothing!
Raised planters in my
garden follow the
Golden Rectangle.
Note, too, the
significant enclosure
provided by the
Eugenia hedge.
04: TURN TO THOMAS D. CHURCH WHEN DESIGNING STEPS
Another ratio may even be platinum: That’s what I’ve always called the rule
for step design advocated by landscape architect Thomas D. Church, often
credited with creating the California
style. Laid out in his seminal
work Gardens Are for People, it says
simply that twice the height of the riser
plus the tread should equal 26 inches.
That means that if the riser is 5 inches,
the tread (what you walk on) should be
16 inches. All I can say is that the rule is
true, and I’ve used it from steep canyon
faces to gentle changes of patio levels.
A useful corollary states that 5 feet is the
minimum width for two people climbing
steps side by side.
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At this Mediterranean inspired garden in the Westwood neighborhood of

Los Angeles, the tile-faced steps follow Church’s ratio.
05: SIZE MATTERS
A final rule related to scale and the

sculpting of space is this: Go
big. Faced with a decision to make a
staircase wider or narrower, a pool
longer or shorter, a pergola higher or
lower, the answer is almost always the
former. In my own garden, I
remember laying out an arbor, with its
posts 10 feet high, and listening to
trusted friends wondering whether it
wasn’t “a little too tall.” Thankfully I
stuck to my guns, and some 18 years
later, wreathed in wisteria and
anchored at the ground by clusters of
pots, the arbor seems just right.
At ten feet, this arbor in my garden allows for hanging and surrounding
foliage to intertwine and connect the arbor to the space without
infringing on the sense of space.
06: PLANT BIG TO SMALL
It’s with plants, probably more than any other element of gardens, that the
infinite variation and fickleness of nature is most evident—and so perhaps,
they are the trickiest to prescribe rules for. And yet, successful planting is the
crowning touch of a garden. Three rules have always served me well.
57 | P a g e
The big palms on this Mediterranean project were already on the

property; the pepper tree
followed. Then the hedges and
vines were installed. Only after
all this were the perennials and
containers planted.
First, is to plant big to small: start
with trees, then shrubs,
then perennials, then ground
cover. This is important not only
in a compositional way (seeing the bigger forms first gives a better sense of
the overall structure), but in a completely practical sense. Setting a big tree
may require machinery or at least multiple gardeners and ample space for
maneuvering and stationing amendments and soils; it would be sad to
damage or undo some newly planted bed. This seems so obvious, but for
lots of gardeners (the author included) a block of fresh perennials may be
impossible to avoid planting right away. Be strong; resist the temptation.
07: PLANT IN MASSES
While there is much to be said for the cottage garden, with a rich array of
varied planting (indeed, it’s
the real master gardener
who can pull this off), there is
a power to seeing a quantity
of one plant that is genuinely
affecting. Russell Page, one
of the great twentieth-
century landscape designers
said it well: “the most striking
and satisfying visual pleasure
comes from the repetition or
58 | P a g e
the massing of one simple element. Imagine the Parthenon with each
column a different kind of marble!”
Ornamental grasses, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’ and Sesleria

autumnalis flank a garden boardwalk in Pacific Palisades, CA. Using drifts
on both sides of the walk reinforces a sense of mass planting.
I remember as a beginning garden designer in California being taken aside
by my mentor, a transplanted Englishwoman who owned the nursery,
walking through a vast block of salvia, and being told that I could, if I liked,
use 30 of them—not the three or five I’d typically been planting. It was a
liberating moment.
08: REMEMBER THIS ABOVE ALL
Maybe my favorite rule of all time, all

the more charming for its need to
be adjusted for inflation: It’s better to
plant a 50-cent plant in a $5 hole,
than a $5 plant in a 50-cent hole.
Imparted by Ralph Snodsmith, my
first official gardening teacher at
the New York Botanical Garden
and talk radio host (a character
whose working uniform was
always a forest green three-piece
suit), there is no greater planting wisdom. No matter how brilliant a plan one
conceives, if the plants are not well planted—at the right height, in a
sufficiently sized, and properly amended pit—the results will likely be poor.
Some rules just can’t be broken.
On yet another project in Pacific Palisades, CA, I planted a Brugmansia

versicolor (angel's trumpet). This plant had been banging around in the
back of my truck for weeks so I asked the client if they wanted it. With a
well-dug and amended hole, it flourished.
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SELF-CHECK 4 Site Preparation

for creating an enticing garden ). Write the letter of your answer on the
space provided.
Column A Column B

B
C
F
__________ 8. Irresistible Lookouts
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ACTIVITY No. 4 Site Preparation
Let’s work on this

Activity No. 4 : Landscape Design Principles
Tools : Pencil, Sign pen Eraser & Ruler

this!
Complete this
Explain the following landscape design principles using your own words. Cite
examples if necessary.
Landscape Design
Own Explanation
Principles
1. OBEY THE "LAW" OF
SIGNIFICANT
ENCLOSURE
2. FOLLOW THE
REGULATING LINE
3. USE THE GOLDEN
RECTANGLE TO GET
PROPORTIONS RIGHT
4. TURN TO THOMAS D.
CHURCH WHEN
DESIGNING STEPS
5. SIZE MATTERS
6. PLANT BIG TO SMALL
7. PLANT IN MASSES
8. REMEMBER THIS
ABOVE ALL
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MODULE Install Plant Support
Lesson 5
Install Plant Support
Objectives:
In this lesson, you should be able to:
1. Understand about plant irrigation

2. identify the different kind of fertilizers
3. understand the installation of mulch
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INSTALL PLANT SUPPORT
IRRIGATION FOR YOUR GARDEN
Discover which irrigation system is best for watering your garden
Most plants need regular watering to survive, and even the most
drought-tolerant ones will occasionally need a drink. Many factors play a
role in determining how best to accommodate your garden’s water
requirements.
Do you have a variety of water needs?

Drought-tolerant plants, lawn areas, perennial beds and edible
gardens all require varying amounts of water and frequency. When
planning your yard or garden areas,
think ahead about how much
water individual plants need and
group plants together that are
similar. This will make watering
easier to manage (and save water)
when all the plants in one area get
the same amount of water and at
the same frequency. It also helps to
keep neighboring plants healthy by
not overwatering dry-loving plants
or underwatering water-loving plants, simply because they are located next
to each other. Also, keep in mind that the shallow roots of annuals will need
more frequent watering than deep-rooted perennials.
What is your climate like?

Hot and windy or cool and cloudy call not only for different amounts
of water, but different methods of application as well. When it comes to
climate, simply making sensible plant choices is one of the best things you
can do for your garden - trying to grow tropical plants in the desert will only
cause yourself, and your plants, a lot of stress.
What is your average rainfall?

Adjustments for rainfall can happen daily, weekly, monthly or
seasonally. If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where Mother Nature
takes care of some of the watering for you, make sure you have a watering
system that lets you adjust accordingly.
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Is your site flat or sloped?
Application methods and rate will be different for water that is going
to stay put on a flat surface and soak in or if it’s going to run down a slope.
Figuring out the correct watering schedule and amounts for flat ground can
be difficult enough with differences in water needs, soil types or exposure;
but watering on slopes adds another layer of complexity. Considerations
need to be made to compensate for gravity, trajectory angles and pressure
differences due to elevation changes. Check valves should also be installed
on lower levels to keep residual water from leaking out.
Does your garden get a lot of sun or is it shaded?

Evaporation from bright sun can steal precious water in a sunny
garden by as much as 50%. Shaded areas hang on to moisture longer and
may become waterlogged. Define the different areas, or zones, of your
entire yard or garden. Areas that receive full sun would probably do better
with drip or soaker-type irrigation that protects against evaporation, as
would areas that are prone to wind. Zones that are constantly shaded
should be on a different schedule than those in sun, as they will soon
become overwatered compared to the hotter, drier areas.
What is your soil composition?

Sandy, clay, rich, rocky — all play a part in how well water is absorbed and
eventually drained from an area.
• Clay soil is often referred to as heavy. Water is absorbed slowly and

spreads out, and clay can hold a lot of it. It’s best to water clay soils at
a slow rate to allow it to soak in. Clay soil is prone to cracking when it
dries out and roots can have a hard time penetrating it. The best
amendments for clay soil are compost or organic matter to improve
drainage.
• Sandy soil allows water to soak straight down without holding onto
much of it. Plants will need to be watered more often and in a wider
arc to get roots to spread. The best amendments are compost or
organic matter to help hold in the moisture.
• Loam soil is a combination of sand, silt and clay and the best for plant
growth. Loam is rich with nutrients and distributes water evenly with
good drainage.
Most gardeners will have a combination of answers to the above
questions — you may have some areas in sun and some in shade; a mixture
of level surfaces as well as slopes; or some areas may get more wind than
others. A good understanding of all of these factors will help you make the
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best choices in matching the right garden watering system — or

combination of systems — to the individual needs and areas in your garden.
GARDEN FERTILIZER
Compare types of fertilizers and learn
when and how to feed your plants
for a healthier garden
Anyone who has gardened knows
that plants need nourishment in
order to be healthy and thrive. In
residential landscapes, Mother
Nature needs a little help from gardeners to replace depleted nutrients. Since
plants have different needs and there are many types of fertilizers, knowing
when and how to fertilize can be daunting. Here’s some basic information to
get you started.
TYPES OF FERTILIZER
It’s important to determine what your plants need in order to choose the
right fertilizer. Pre-packaged fertilizers are formulated to meet different
nutritional needs, with some specifically formulated for roses, trees and
shrubs, vegetables, lawns, or bulbs to remove the guesswork.
Organic vs. inorganic:

Fertilizers are available as organic (plant or animal derived) or inorganic
(man-made from chemicals). Organic types are better for the environment
and help to improve overall soil health. Inorganic fertilizers do nothing to
improve soil and have no positive residual effect. In some cases, they can
be harmful to the environment and wildlife, so it’s important to weigh the
pros and cons before using.
Granular vs. water-soluble:

There are two basic forms of fertilizers, each with advantages and
drawbacks. Slow release granular fertilizers have the advantage of
delivering nutrients over a longer period of time. Water-soluble fertilizers are
faster acting, delivering a boost of nutrients when plants need a quick pick-
me-up. These are generally less harsh and not as long-lasting, so need to be
applied more frequently.
Other popular fertilizer options include fertilizer spikes, liquid fertilizers,
and compost teas.
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NUTRIENTS PLANTS NEED
The three primary nutrients (macronutrients) that all plants need are nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).
Nitrogen promotes healthy leaf growth by stimulating the production of

chlorophyll, which is the main pigment that allows plants to convert sunlight
into food. Too much nitrogen will result in too much foliage and fewer
flowers or fruit, while not enough nitrogen results in yellow leaves, stunted
growth and smaller flowers or fruit.
Phosphorus promotes healthy stems and root development, along with
abundant flower and fruit production. A shortage of phosphorus can result
in leaf drop, weak flower stems and buds that won’t open.
Potassium, also referred to as potash, is an overall nutrient used by the entire
plant. It helps plants utilize their photosynthate, and allows quicker recovery
from insect and disease damage or weather extremes. Lack of potassium
can result in yellow leaf margins, weak flower stems and poorly developed
buds.
Nutrient ratios: The N-P-K ratio refers to the percentage of nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium that is in a fertilizer.
• If you want to boost flower production, a formulation such as 12-55-6
will contain a higher amount of phosphorus, which promotes more
blooms.
• To green up your lawn, a fertilizer with a ratio such as 29-0-4 contains a
higher concentration of nitrogen, which boosts lush foliar growth.
Other nutrients:
In order to thrive, plants also need micronutrients and trace minerals in
smaller amounts, which include calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper,
iron, manganese, and zinc.
"Feeding" vs "Fertilizing"
Horticulturist and owner of Variegata Studio, Denise Kelly, says, "It’s helpful to
remember that fertilizers are more akin to vitamins than food, especially
when deciphering application rate and frequency. Plants make their own
food through photosynthesis, harnessing the energy of the sun to create
sugars from carbon dioxide and water. Plants also require mineral elements
(similar to our vitamin supplements) for essential life processes; fertilizers
provide one or more of these essential elements. Nitrogen, Phosphorous and
Potassium (N,P,K) are the three elements most likely to be deficient in our
soils, as plants use them in greater amounts compared to other nutrients."
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WHEN AND HOW TO FERTILIZE
Most plants benefit from the application of a slow-acting granular fertilizer in
early spring to jump-start new growth. Some plants such as natives and
succulents need little to no supplemental fertilizing. Factors such as soil type,
pH, moisture, drainage, and temperature can affect a plant’s ability to
absorb nutrients. Here are some general guidelines; some plants within these
categories may have different needs.
A gardener applies a slow release fertilizer around the base of a currant

shrub.
Trees and shrubs:

Most trees and many shrubs need little or no supplemental fertilizer,
depending on soil health. If necessary, apply a granular fertilizer in early
spring. Use a fertilizer specially formulated for trees and shrubs and apply
around the drip line.
Perennials:
Most ornamental perennials will thrive in healthy soil, needing little
supplemental fertilizer. Mulch established plants with 1-2 inches of compost
in early spring, or fertilize once in spring with an all-purpose granular fertilizer.
Roses:
Roses are heavy feeders, requiring regular nutrients throughout the growing
season. Reapply fertilizer every 2-6 weeks from spring through summer,
depending on the type of fertilizer used. Stop fertilizing 6-8 weeks before
your first average frost date to avoid possible damage to new growth. Many
modern hybrids such as Oso Easy® can be fertilized less often. Learn
more: How to Fertilize Roses.
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Annuals:
Most annuals are heavy feeders, benefiting from an ongoing source of
nutrients for continuous bloom throughout the summer. Amend beds with
compost or use a high quality potting soil for containers. Apply an all-
purpose granular fertilizer or liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion every 2-6
weeks according to package instructions.
Vegetables:
Vegetable crops benefit from well-amended soil and adequate fertilizing to
maximize production. Nutritional needs vary according to the type of crop
grown.
A gentle liquid fertilizer being applied to young pepper seedlings.
Fruits:
Strawberries, blueberries, cane berries, and fruit trees all have different
nutritional needs and fertilizing schedules, which can vary by region. Consult
your local extension service or garden center for more information. Get tips
on caring for strawberries.
Lawns:
As a general rule, apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer specially formulated for
lawns in spring and again in fall. Some regions will vary. Leave freshly
mowed grass clippings for an additional source of nitrogen.
Bulbs:
For spring-blooming bulbs, work in bone meal or bulb fertilizer into the
planting hole according to instructions. For established beds, top dress with
an all-purpose or bulb fertilizer in fall, and again in early spring when new
growth appears. Summer bloomers such as lilies need little supplemental
fertilizer as long as soil is healthy. If desired, work bulb fertilizer into the soil
around plants in early spring.
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Seedlings:
Wait until plants develop their first set of true leaves before fertilizing. Use a
mild liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion at half strength and apply twice a
week, or at full strength every 7-10 days. If you are using potting soil that
contains fertilizers, there’s no need for supplemental nutrients.
No matter what type of fertilizer you are using or what type of plant you are
applying it to, it's very important to water thoroughly before and after to
avoid burning roots and to deliver nutrients to the root zone more
effectively.
SUCCESS TIPS
• It’s important to know your soil’s overall health before applying fertilizer,
as too much fertilizer can be as damaging as not enough. Find more
information on how to evaluate your soil.
• Brush granular fertilizer off leaves to prevent foliage burn.
• Group plants with similar light, soil, and nutritional needs together to
make it easier to care for them.
• Because containers need more frequent watering, nutrients leach out
quicker than for plants in the ground. Fertilize containers more often,
every 2-4 weeks.
• Some fertilizers work better when temperatures are warmer, but avoid
fertilizing during extreme heat spells to avoid stressing plants.
ORGANIC AMENDMENTS
Besides prepackaged fertilizers, there are individual amendments and soil
enhancers. Here are those most commonly used:
Compost is one of the most essential soil amendments, improving soil

structure and providing a wide spectrum of nutrients and minerals. It can be
homemade or bought commercially, and includes mushroom compost and
worm castings. Compost promotes overall plant health, increasing resilience
to pests and diseases. Work into the soil at planting time, or apply a 1-2 inch
layer each spring around the base of established plants. It can also be
steeped in water and used as a tea. Compost can rob plants of nitrogen if
not completely broken down, so it may be necessary to supplement with a
nitrogen source. Learn how to make your own compost at home.
Manure consists of waste from livestock animals including cows, horses,
chickens, steers, or rabbits. One of the best overall fertilizers, manure is
packed with nitrogen and other nutrients, as well as trace minerals. It is both
a fertilizer and amendment, improving soil structure and promoting lush
growth. Make sure manure is well-aged so it doesn’t burn plants. Work into
69 | P a g e
the soil at the time of planting or mulch established plants with a one-inch
layer in spring. Manure can also be steeped in water and used as a tea.
Bone meal, a powder made from finely ground animal bones, is rich in
phosphorus and calcium, which helps promote vigorous growth, root
development and plentiful flowers. Apply in spring for a slow-release effect
through the growing season and again in fall to promote root growth and
next year’s flowers.
Cottonseed meal, a dry byproduct of cotton production, improves soil
texture and boosts overall plant health. Apply once or twice a year for a
slow-release effect throughout the growing season. Since it is somewhat
acidic, soil pH may need to be adjusted with lime or other alkaline source.
Kelp meal or seaweed extract contains more than 70 vitamins, trace
minerals, and amino acids essential to overall plant health. Available as a
dried powder or liquid concentrate, kelp promotes root development,
boosts immunity from pests and diseases, and stimulates beneficial soil
bacteria. This can be part of a regular program throughout the growing
season.
Fish emulsion, an excellent all-purpose fertilizer, promotes lush growth,
improves soil texture and supports beneficial microbes. Most sources are
liquid concentrate, but it can also come in pellet form. Apply every 2-4
weeks for a continuous food source that won’t burn plants. Fish fertilizer is
often used in combination with kelp.
Alfalfa, which is often grown as a cover crop, is also available in granular or
pellet form. One of the best overall organic amendments, alfalfa improves
soil texture and is rich in macronutrients, micronutrients, and trace minerals. It
contains triacontanol, a natural growth stimulant.
SET IN STONE
Long overlooked, gravel is finally being recognized for its enduring beauty.
Too many
gardeners focus only on
gravel's function, not on its
form. They're preoccupied,
understandably, with bloom
times, fish fertilizers, and how
to keep bulb catalogues and
credit cards in separate parts
of the house. If they use
gravel at all, it's dutifully, as a
pathway along carefully
planted beds, where it serves
70 | P a g e
as a backdrop for the limelight-seeking blooms spilling over its edges. Or on a
patio as a visual pause between, say, the attention-demanding corkscrews
of Harry Lauder's Walking Stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’) and platter-size,
come-hither dahlias. Gravel, for too long, has been cast in supporting roles as
an actor whose job is simply not to steal the show.
Lately, though, gravel has been gaining fans who appreciate its variety
and versatility and treat it like a star. “I'm crazy for gravel,” says Los Angeles
landscape designer Marissa Mandel. “I love to see things floating in it,
whether that's raised beds or larger stones.” Mandel favors a locally quarried
gravel called Del Rio, which she uses in design schemes that range from arid
to lush Moroccan. “I love the sound of it underfoot and the sound of water
on it when it rains,” she gushes. “I'll use it as grout on a patio, or as landing-like
steps edged with steel.”
Gravel's growing popularity is related to its increased availability and

also to an expanding awareness of its inherent richness in color, shape, and
size. The only real limits in choosing gravel are your wallet (the farther gravel
is trucked, the more it costs), your willingness to give up plantable turf (terra
firma versus terra even more firma), and your level of interest in living
sustainably (think globally, pave locally). “If a client said to us, ‘We want lava
rock,’” says Philadelphia landscape architect Tavis Dockwiller, “we say,
‘Move to Hawaii.’”
Paving locally doesn't have to impose a design constraint. “We are

blessed with a geology that runs from sedimentary to igneous,” says
Minneapolis landscape architect Thomas Oslund. “We use anything from
dolomitic limestone from the southern part of the state to crushed granites
from the central part. We tailor our choice to the color and effect we want.”
Oslund's go-to gravels are a trap rock, from Dresser, Wisconsin, and a crushed
red limestone from Shakopee, Minnesota, so good at draining water that it
lines baseball diamonds throughout the Midwest and Canada.
Rock seems inert, but over millennia it does change. Much of it was
born as molten magma deep within the Earth, and all of it derives its pigment
and form through contact with elemental forces: fire, wind, sun, and water.
By the time it becomes gravel, it's been pounded into pebbles along rivers
and oceans, or excavated from quarries and crushed.
Crushed gravel can be rough on bare feet, but the pieces interlock as
they settle, providing a more stable surface and less scattering over time.
Rounded gravel-despite silhouettes that project deep tranquillity-is more like
“walking on ball bearings,” Oslund says. Both types allow water to percolate
down into an aquifer, and in light colors can serve as a heat-reflecting mulch.
Warmer-toned than pavement, cooler and more neutral than grass, gravel is
weatherproof and malleable: it can follow curves as easily as it does straight
lines. Properly installed, it acts as a weed barrier, and the colors pick up on
the adjacent plant palette.
71 | P a g e
Gravel is easy to set down, requires little maintenance, and, if well-

contained, calls for only minimal replenishment every few years. It's cost-
effective, given that it requires no mowing, watering, or fertilizing. Gravels
researched for this story ranged in price from $20 to $152 per cubic yard; a
20-by-20-foot patio can be covered with roughly three cubic yards.
Throw in that it's biodegradable (give or take an ice age), and gravel
seems to be the surface without a downside. Alas, it has a few. If silt builds up,
the gravel clogs. It won't break down, like mulch, into soil-amending nutrients.
Gravel can also break your heart. “We originally had Shirakawa in our Sand
and Stone Garden,” says curator Sadafumi Uchiyama of Portland, Oregon's
Japanese Garden. With a texture that alternates between jagged and
smooth, Shirakawa, a black-speckled granite from Kyoto, Japan, is prized for
its ability to hold raked grooves; those contemplation-prompting patterns
lasted weeks unless weather or rambunctious children intervened. Now the
source is a protected waterway and it's illegal to harvest Shirakawa.
“Right now we're using granite chips from Canada,” Uchiyama says, “but
we keep looking for something better.”
1. Brown river rock

A dirt-concealing blend of earth tones, harvested in Alabama. Typically
usedfor heavily tracked areas such as driveways.
2. Dresser trap rock
A dark, fine-grained igneous rock known for being especially hard and
therefore long-lasting. Available throughout the Midwest.
3. Bantam egg
A mix of whites, beiges, and yellows from southern New Jersey.
4. Rubber mulch
A recently developed gravel alternative made from old tires. Can be
custom-dyed and used for surfacing
playgrounds and mulching tree pits.
5. White river rock
More popular than the brown river rock that comes from the same state, this
version is also more expensive.
6. Red rock
Crushed red limestone from the Shakopee, Minnesota, area; also sold in a
buff color.
7. Del Rio
A river pebble with unusually variegated shape and coloration harvested in
Ventura County, California.
8. Bird’s eye
A smal size (quarter-inch) gravel quarried on the eastern end of New York’s
Long Island.
9. River jack
A river rock from near Easton, Pennsylvania, whose variegated colors tend
72 | P a g e
toward gray and brown, making it an excellent grout for the sand-swept
joints on a bluestone path or patio.
10. Marble chip
A bright white high-end ground cover quarried in Georgia.
11. Crushed shell
A popular gravel alternative in seaside communities where the salty water
table inhibits grass growth. The half-inch size knits into a fairly stable surface
and often is used to fi ll entire yards. Quarried in Florida.
12. Seminole chip
A dark or medium red argillite shale with purple highlights, quarried in
Central Pennsylvania.
Landscape Materials
Garden Soil (Class A)
Carabao Grass
sand
Blue grass
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Bamboo Sticks ("Buho")
Frog Grass
Boulders
Green Stone Boulders
Monolith Stones
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River Stones
Pebbles
White Pebbles
Stones
Pink Stones
75 | P a g e
SELF-CHECK 5 Install Plant Support
CROSSWORD PUZZLE: Use the clues below to fill the crossword puzzle with
the correct terms in Install plant support.
76 | P a g e
ACTIVITY No. 5 Install Plant Support
Let’s work on this

Activity No. 5 : Install Plant Support
Tools : Pencil and Calculator

this!
Complete this
Directions: Research on different stones used in landscaping.
Name Picture
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
77 | P a g e
MODULE Maintenance Operation
Lesson 6
Maintenance Operation
In this lesson you will learn about the maintenance operation after landscape
installation have been done.
Objectives:
In this lesson, you should be able to:
1. Know the step-by-step procedures of tools maintenance

2. understand the weeding procedure
3. understand the landscape maintenance
78 | P a g e
MAINTENANCE OPERATION
Maintaining & Storing Hand Tools
1. Clean tools to remove soil & other debris
2. Check tools for bent or dull blades
3. Check tools for broken handles
4. Replace broken equipment
5. Store tools indoors
Before Using Power Equipment:

• Inspect the equipment to see if it is mechanically safe to start
• Check the area in which the tool will be used for hazards
• Review steps to starting, using & stopping equipment
• Warn others around when you are about to begin work
Maintaining & Storing Small Power Tools

• Use basic maintenance & storage procedures
• See operation manual for each type of equipment
• Clean equipment of dirt & debris after each use
• Clean off any moisture on the exterior of the equipment
• Store in clean & dry cabinets
• Do not wrap power cords around equipment
Maintaining & Storing Large Power Equipment

• Check equipment systems regularly to keep them in proper working
order
• Should be stored in a safe & protected manner to prevent injury &
malfunctioning
NATURAL METHODS TO GET RID OF COMMON GARDEN WEEDS

10 ways to control weeds and
keep them out of your lawn and
garden—including natural weed
killers
With so much controversy
surrounding the use of chemical
weed killers, especially those
containing glyphosate, many
gardeners are turning to more
organic and natural weed control
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methods to deal with weeds — even if it means more work. If you would like
to get rid of weeds without harsh chemicals, here are 10 ways to knock them
out.
1. NATURAL WEED KILLERS: Post-emergent herbicides target and kill growing
weeds. They are available in spray forms that enter through the foliage, or
granular forms that are watered into the soil and penetrate through the roots.
There are two types of post-emergent formulas:

o Systemic formulas that absorb directly into the plant and are best on
perennial weeds
o Contact formulas that kill only the exposed part of the plant and are more
useful for annuals or smaller weeds
Most organic herbicides are comprised of acetic acid, citric acid, clove
and/or citrus oils, as well as other ingredients. There are others that are based
on iron content, such as Iron X, that have a better effect on broadleaf
weeds, such as creeping Charlie, than on grasses.
Common weed killers to try:
o Weed Slayer Organic Herbicide
o Bonide Burnout All Natural Weed & Grass Killer
o Avenger Organics Weed Killer Concentrate
2. NATURAL WEED PREVENTERS: Pre-emegent herbicides affect the weed

seeds and don’t allow them to germinate, but they don’t work on existing
weeds. Most natural pre-emergents are made from corn gluten meal, and it
comes in granular, pellet and liquid formulas. If you’re targeting mainly annual
weeds like crabgrass, henbit, chickweed, or purslane, pre-emergents can
provide good weed prevention when applied at the right time of year (see
Types of Common Weeds below). Read labels carefully and make sure the
product you are using not only kills the specific weeds you are targeting, but is
also safe for use with the type of lawn you have. Don’t use pre-emergent weed
control at a time when you are sowing new grass seed or will be in the near
future; some pre-emergents can be effective for months.
Common weed preventers to try:
o Espoma Organic Weed Preventer
o Preen Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer
o Safer Brand Weed Prevention Plus
Within each herbicide category (post-emergent or pre-emergent), there are
selective and non-selective options. Selective treatments target specific
weeds and are non-lethal to other weeds or plants. Non-selective treatments
do damage to all plants they come into contact with, good and bad. When
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using any type of herbicide, remember that ‘organic’ or ‘natural’ doesn’t

necessarily mean ‘safe for kids and pets.’ Treat all products carefully, read
labels, and follow instructions.
Stand-up weeding tool.

3. DIY WEED SPRAYS: Homemade salt, vinegar and dish soap mixtures can
be effective on some weeds, but should be used sparingly. Although they may
sound safe and harmless, the ingredients can be harmful to the soil. Too much
salt can cause soil to become toxic to plants and the vinegar can change the
soil pH. Also, beware of using vinegar if there are amphibians (frogs, toads,
etc.) near, as it can be harmful.
4. DIG AND PULL: The key to success when removing weeds by hand is to
get all the roots, especially with perennial weeds as they can spread and
regrow from roots left behind. There are hand tools and stand-up weeders that
make the job easier. Combine some sweat equity with other methods, and
you’re sure to see results.
1. Try these highly rated weeding tools:

Wilcox All Pro Weeder Radius Ergonomic Weeder Nisaku Hori-Hori Weeding Knife
2. HEALTHY LAWN AND MULCH: Maintaining a healthy, thick lawn may

prove too much competition for weeds. In flowerbeds, a thick layer of mulch
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applied after a thorough hand weeding can help prevent weeds from
reseeding. Different mulches can consist of: bark chips, wood chips, hulls or
bean shells, leaves, or straw.
o Healthy lawn tip: Lawns that receive frequent light watering develop shallow
roots, making them weak and susceptible to weed invasion. Water lawns less
frequently, but thoroughly and deeply.
o Mulch tip: Cedar mulch also has natural insect-repellent qualities and breaks
down slower than other bark or wood mulches.
3. LANDSCAPE FABRIC: A heavy landscape or weed control fabric blocks
seeds from reaching the soil. Be sure to do a thorough weeding or solarization
(see below) first, as seeds that are lurking below the cloth may still find a way
up and out, either around the edges or through holes created when inserting
plants. Although it’s not attractive when used by itself, you can add a layer of
mulch for a more appealing look. Even if seeds do find a home and sprout in
the mulch, the fabric will keep roots from taking a firm hold and they will be
easily removed. Secure fabric with landscape fabric staples or stakes.
4. GROUNDCOVER: Plant a quick-growing groundcover to give the weeds
competition for soil and water such as creeping phlox, creeping thyme or
dragon’s blood sedum.
5. NO-TILL GARDENING: Adopt a no-till approach to keep dormant weed
seeds below the surface. (See Garden Soil 101 for more benefits.)
6. SOIL SOLARIZATION: This method is good for reclaiming an area that
weeds have taken over. It is an environmentally friendly, organic method that
uses the sun’s heat to “cook” the weeds and their seeds. It will also kill bacteria,
fungi, insects, and other organisms in the soil. This method can’t determine bad
organisms from beneficial ones, so it is a good idea to work in some compost
before re-planting this area.
Soil solarization method with drip lines

o Thoroughly clear the area of plants and debris. Till to uproot weed roots, and
rake to remove them and create a smooth surface.
o Water the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
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o Cover the area tightly with clear plastic (1 to 4 mil painter’s plastic works great).
Don’t use white or black plastic, as they don’t allow enough heat transmission
to the soil.
o Bury the plastic around the perimeter of the area or hold the edges down with
cinder blocks or bricks.
o Leave in place for 4 to 8 weeks in hottest part of summer.
o Remove plastic and cover with landscape fabric before planting. Carefully cut
the holes in the fabric, keeping dirt from getting on top of it.
o Tip: This method works best on soils that hold moisture, allowing it to produce
steam every day to kill the weed seeds. If you are solarizing drier or sandy soil,
lay drip lines or a soaker hose under the plastic and water regularly. Keep an
eye on the amount of water that beads on the underside of the plastic in the
morning. When it decreases, it’s time to add water.
Flame torch method.

7. HEAT: A specialized flame torch can be passed over the weed foliage
quickly, just long enough to destroy the tissues, and the weed will die. Flame
weeding is best for use on annual weeds, as it only kills the above-ground plant
and not the roots. When used on perennials, they will often come right back,
re-growing from the roots left behind. This method can be quite effective when
used on young weeds in walkways or cracks. Use with caution in dry or high fire
danger areas.
Another way to use heat to kill weeds is with boiling water. It will kill any plant
growth it touches, so be careful with nearby plants. It will also kill beneficial
organisms in the soil. You may find this method to be more successful in killing
broadleaf annual weeds, but not as effective in controlling perennial weeds.
It is, however, quite useful for weeds growing between pavers or bricks, or in
cracks in walkways or driveways. Use caution when transporting and pouring
the boiling water.
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TYPES OF COMMON WEEDS & HOW TO TREAT THEM

Weeds fall into categories just like other plants: annual or perennial, and
broadleaf or grassy. Determining which group you’re targeting will help
determine how and when to treat them, giving you better weed control.
• Annuals grow from seed each year and die off at the end of the season
or are killed by the first frost.
• Perennials come back year after year and spread by seeds and roots.
PRUNING GARDEN SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS

Make your plants healthier and more productive by mastering these four basic
techniques.
Gardeners often prune their ornamental shrubs and perennials for the
immediate satisfaction of improving the appearance of a straggly or
overgrown plant. But pruning is important for purposes beyond aesthetics, and
you shouldn’t always expect instant gratification from your efforts.
The Purpose of Pruning
Sometimes pruning involves shearing a plant down to the ground with
the goal of encouraging new growth. It may be done to curb the spread of
an overly assertive vine, or to thin out tangles of branches from a mature shrub.
Or it may be as simple as pinching off the tips of a plant to stagger the bloom
time and promote branching.
“To prune plants well is not so much about knowing how and where to
cut but about knowing what you’re trying to achieve. Experienced gardeners
are able to describe what a plant should look like when they’ve finished, even
before they’ve taken their hand pruners out of their pocket,” says Steve
Bradley, author of The Pruner's Bible.
Unlike the pruning of large trees, which often requires the skills of an
arborist, the pruning of smaller shrubs and perennials is a job any gardener
can tackle easily with a few basic tools. Knowing what you want to
accomplish will determine not only the technique you use, but also the timing.
Thinning
Use thinning cuts when you want to remove diseased
or damaged branches or unwanted growth, such as
in the center of a shrub that’s too dense. By culling
out these surplus branches, you’ll expose the
remaining branches to more air and sunlight and
improve the plant’s structure and definition.
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When pruning shrubs, always make your cuts just above a bud. For plants
with buds arranged alternately (with one bud higher on one side than the
other), make sloping cuts angled up from the bud. For plants with buds
arranged directly opposite from one another, make a flat cut at a right angle
to the stem just above a pair of buds.
Tools and techniques:

When done properly, thinning will preserve the natural form of a plant
rather than stimulate a new flush of growth. When making your cuts, remove
the entire shoot or branch completely by cutting back to sound, healthy
tissue, close to a branch node or bud. This will promote better healing of the
cut surface. For thin stems and branches (up to ½ inch in diameter), you can
easily cut through them with a hand pruner or small pruning knife. To make a
clean cut without crushing or bruising the branch, use bypass pruners with
overlapping blades rather than single-bladed anvil-type pruners. To cut
through thicker branches, upgrade to a lopper (essentially a pruner with
heavier blades and longer handles) or a pruning saw. You may also want to
invest in a long-arm pruner (a 6- to 10-foot-long telescoping pole with a pruner
at the tip) to remove high branches without standing on a ladder. For all your
pruning jobs, use high-quality tools with clean, sharp blades (Felco is a reliable
brand), and be sure to match the tool to the task at hand to avoid damage
to both the branch and the tool.
When to make thinning cuts:

The best time to thin a shrub is late fall to early spring. Branch removal
will be less stressful to the plant when it’s dormant, and you’ll be able to see
the structure of the branches more clearly, allowing you to identify damaged
branches or areas that require thinning. To avoid overthinning, follow this
advice from master gardener coordinator Sandra Mason, with University of
Illinois Extension: Spray paint or tie a colorful ribbon around the branches you
plan to remove to help you visualize what will be remaining.
Heading
Unlike thinning cuts, where the objective is to remove the branch
entirely, heading cuts shorten branches or twigs to increase the density or
bushiness of a plant and control its size and shape. When you shear a hedge,
for example, you are essentially making hundreds of heading cuts.
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Give your dianthus and other

spring-flowering perennials a mid-
season boost by cutting them back
after blooming to about half their size.
This often promotes fresh new growth
and sporadic reblooming.
There are two types of heading
cuts: selective and nonselective.
Selective cuts are made by cutting
back a branch or twig close to a bud
to reduce a shrub’s height while retaining its natural form. Nonselective
heading cuts shorten the length of a branch by cutting it back to no place in
particular. Because shearing stimulates dense growth at the ends of branches,
it should be reserved for shrubs that can tolerate repeated grooming, such as
boxwoods. “Shearing is a high-maintenance chore,” says Cass Turnbull, in
her Guide to Pruning. “Although shearing a plant may take little time, the tidy
appearance vanishes very quickly, and shearing locks the practitioner into
frequent reshearing.”
Use hand pruners for selective heading, and hand shears, which have
longer blades than pruners, for nonselective cuts. If you have rows of hedges
that require shearing, consider investing in an electric or gas-powered
hedge trimmer equipped with a lock button to prevent operation of the tool
if you release the switch. When using shears to clip a hedge, follow this tip
from Bradley: Always work upward from the bottom of the hedge to prevent
the prunings from becoming entangled in the uncut branches. Also make
the hedge wider at the bottom than the top to prevent the upper branches
from shading the lower branches.
When to make heading cuts:
The timing of heading cuts varies depending on the plant species and
your objectives. One of the most important rules of thumb is to prune spring-
flowering shrubs, such as forsythia and lilacs, soon after they bloom because
they develop their flower buds during the summer and fall of the previous year.
If you prune them after early to midsummer, you risk removing most of the buds
for the following season.
Summer and fall flowering shrubs give you a bit more flexibility because
they bloom on new wood produced in the same season. To encourage new
growth, and thus more flowers, prune them back in later winter or early spring
before the leaves emerge. Hydrangeas have a variable set of rules, because
the buds on some plants form on new wood and some on old wood.
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When clipping formal hedges, shear them after the first flush of new
growth in the spring. To maintain their shape, you may need to shear them
again during the growing season if they begin to look untidy. Avoid shearing
in late fall because the new growth that follows may not have time to harden
off before the first frost.
Pinching
For herbaceous perennials, pruning is often
accomplished by pinching off the tips and first set of
leaves of a stem to stagger bloom time and control
the plant’s height and shape. “Anyone who
considers themselves so much as a weekend
gardener knows the supposed attributes and glories
of pinching mums. But very few gardeners take full
advantage of this valuable technique, which can
enhance the habit and flowering effect of
innumerable other perennials,” says Tracy DiSabato-
Aust, author of The Well-Tended Perennial Garden.
Among the perennials on her recommended list for
pinching are asters, joe-pye weed, beebalm, Russian sage, sedum 'Autumn
Joy', phlox, turtlehead, and common yarrow.
For fall-flowering perennials, such as asters and chrysanthemums, pinching

them back selectively before they bloom will allow you to stagger or delay
bloom time and give you a fuller, more compact plant.
Most plant stems can be pinched with the tips of your fingers, but you
can also use hand pruners or a pair of garden scissors. For the neatest
appearance, it’s best to pinch the stem just above a leaf node. Do not
pinch any perennials that form only a single flower bud or stalk, such
as daylilies, hostas, astilbes, and coral bells.
When to pinch:
The best time for pinching is generally early to mid-June, especially for
fall-flowering perennials. If you wait until July, you may not give the plant
enough time to form flower buds before the end of the season. If you are
pinching solely for the purpose of shaping a plant, the timing isn’t as critical.
Deadheading
Most gardeners are familiar with deadheading, the process of snipping
or shearing off withered flowers to channel the plant’s energy into new blooms
and fresh foliage rather than seed creation. Although it can be a tedious and
87 | P a g e
time-consuming task, deadheading will often coax repeat blooming from

many perennials and annuals. It will also prevent plants that self-sow from
developing seeds and strewing them haphazardly throughout your garden, if
that’s not your intent. You may even want to deadhead perennials that only
bloom once to improve the vigor of their foliage. Examples include hostas,
daylilies, lungworts, and lady’s mantle.
Although it may be tempting to remove all the spent flowers in your
garden to give it a tidier appearance, don’t deadhead your plants
indiscriminately. Some single-blooming perennials are more attractive when
the flowers are left to dry, such as alliums, astilbes, goat’s beard, and Russian
sage. For other plants, you may want to allow seedheads to form because
they provide winter interest and a food source for birds. For guidance, see this
list from Penn State Extension Master Gardeners of perennials and annuals
that do or do not benefit from deadheading.
With perennials that are vigorous bloomers, such as hardy geraniums,
dianthus and coreopsis, an easy way to deadhead is to trim the plant back
with shears to about half its height. With plants that don’t bloom as profusely,
you can use scissors, hand pruners, or even your fingertips to do the job,
cutting back to a bud or leaf node. For flowers with leafless stems, such as
hostas, cut them down to the base and remove the entire stem.
When to deadhead:
To redirect a plant’s energy into new growth, it’s best to remove faded
flowers as soon as you notice them. But if you find it hard to keep up with the
chore, just deadhead when time allows. The delay will do little harm, and it
may even work in your favor by extending the reblooming period.
HOW TO GET RID OF APHIDS NATURALLY

Four aphid control options that are safe for your plants and family
Dealing with predatory insects and other pests is one of the least
favorite tasks for most gardeners. It’s even more challenging when they are
difficult to spot. Among the most common garden pests, spider mites
(Tetranychus urticae) are smaller than the head of a pin, making it hard to
identify them. These tick-like bugs are considered arachnids (related to
spiders) rather than insects for their eight legs. There are many different types,
occurring in colors of red, green, yellow, or brown, with the most common
being the two-spotted spider mite and red spider mite.
There are many ways to control aphids without using dangerous
chemicals in your garden. Aphids have several natural enemies, including
88 | P a g e
other insects, insect larvae, and birds; and they move rather slowly, making
them easy to remove by hand or target with sprays. Aphids multiply quickly,
so it may take a combination of methods as well as repeated efforts to
completely control them. Be persistent and patient; it may take a little time to
see results.
Here are a few methods for natural aphid control:
GET RID OF APHIDS BY HAND
Water:
Spray aphids off of plants with a strong stream of water from a garden hose.
This method is most effective early on in the season before an infestation has
fully taken hold. It may not be a good choice for younger or more delicate
plants, but it works well on plants where you can use higher water pressure.
Remove by hand:
Put on some garden gloves and knock them off of stems, leaves, flower
buds, or wherever you see them, and into a bucket of soapy water to kill
them. You can also cut or prune off the affected areas and drop them into
the bucket.
CONTROL APHIDS WITH NATURAL AND ORGANIC SPRAYS
Soap and water:
Make a homemade aphid spray by mixing a few tablespoons of a pure
liquid soap (such as castile) in a small bucket of water. (Avoid using detergents
or products with degreasers or moisturizers.) Apply with a spray bottle directly
on aphids and the affected parts of the plant, making sure to soak the
undersides of leaves where eggs and larvae like to hide. The soap dissolves
the protective outer layer of aphids and other soft-bodied insects, eventually
killing them. It doesn’t harm birds or hard-bodied beneficial insects like
lacewings, ladybugs or pollinating bees. You can also purchase ready-to-
use insecticidal soaps online or at a local nursery.
Neem oil:
The organic compounds in neem oil act as a repellent for aphids and
other insects, including mealy bugs, cabbage worms, beetles, leafminers, ants
and various types of caterpillars. However, it may repel beneficial insects, so
use caution when and where they are present. Follow package instructions
for diluting the oil in water or use a ready-to-use neem oil spray, and spray the
affected areas. Neem oil is also good for controlling different types of fungus.
Essential oils:
Create your own spray mixture with essential oils. Use 4 to 5 drops of
each: peppermint, clove, rosemary and thyme, and mix with water in a small
89 | P a g e
spray bottle. Spray on affected plants to target adult aphids, as well as aphid
larvae and eggs.
EMPLOY NATURAL PREDATORS
Pictured Left: Green lacewing larva.

Pictured Right: Lady beetle larva.
Lady beetles:
Adult lady beetles (ladybugs) don't eat nearly as many aphids as they
do in their larval stage, which is why many people are disappointed with the
lack of control they see after releasing purchased live ladybugs into their
garden.
There needs to be a large enough aphid population to keep the
ladybugs fed long enough to mate and lay eggs — because it’s the larvae
that eat the most aphids. Ladybug larvae don’t look at all like the adults we're
so familiar with, so identification is important (see photo). Live ladybugs can
be purchased online or at your local nursery.
Tips for better results:
• Lightly mist plants before releasing to encourage them to stop for a
drink as they are probably dehydrated.
• Release them in cooler times of the day, early morning or evening.
• Repeat applications are needed, as most will fly away within a few
days.
Green lacewings:
As with ladybugs, green lacewing larvae do the work of controlling
aphids. Green lacewing eggs can also be purchased online and sometimes
at a local nursery.
Birds:
Provide houses for bug-eating birds, like wrens and chickadees, to live in and
they’ll repay you by helping keep the insect population under control. Grow
small trees and shrubs where they can take cover and build their own nests.
GROW THE RIGHT PLANTS
Use plants to your advantage by planting varieties that attract beneficial
insects (aphid predators) or those that naturally repel aphids. You can also
90 | P a g e
plant some aphid favorites as trap plants to lure aphids away from plants you
are trying to protect. Also, keep your garden clean of dead plant material
that may be harboring aphid eggs over winter.
• Attract beneficial insects: Clover, mint, dill, fennel, and yarrow
• Natural aphid repellents: Catnip, garlic, chives, onion, and allium
• Aphid trap plants: Zinnias, dahlias, cosmos, asters, mustard and
nasturtium
What about roses?
Aphids love roses and can mount a major attack quickly, so keep a
close eye on your rose bushes. Aphids like to gather on and below rosebuds,
as well as under leaves. Any of the methods listed here will help keep them
under control. For more on rose care, see: How to Prune Roses and How to
Fertilize Roses.
APHIDS 101
Aphids feed on soft stems, branches, buds and fruit, preferring tender
new growth over tougher established foliage. They pierce the stems and suck
the nutrient-rich sap from the plant, leaving behind curled or yellowed leaves,
deformed flowers, or damaged fruit. Most aphids feed on a wide variety of
plants, although some species are specific to certain types of plants.
Aphids don’t like to dine alone, and can usually be found feeding in
large groups. Depending on the level of infestation, they can cause serious
injury to individual plants or even entire crops. Aphids produce multiple
generations in one year and infestations can quickly get out of hand. Treating
them early, before they have a chance to reproduce, can make a huge
difference in gaining aphid control. Aphids frequently carry viruses and can
spread them from one plant to another, often proving fatal to crops like citrus,
potatoes and grains.
Aphids secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that attracts ants,
so following a trail of ants into a plant can often lead to a discovery of an
aphid infestation. Ants are known to protect aphids from natural predators
and even herd them into tight colonies so they can harvest the honeydew
easier. Honeydew also creates a favorable environment for sooty mold to
grow and spread.
Most species of aphids overwinter as eggs and hatch in the spring;
however, in warmer climates, they can be an almost year-round problem.
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ROOT APHIDS
Root aphids.
The signs root aphid damage are similar, with curled or yellowed leaves
and a failure to thrive. Root aphids cause infected plants to be susceptible to
root rot, mildew, and other diseases, but many of the above-ground
treatments aren’t effective. Root aphids are also common on indoor-grown
plants and herbs.
Here are a few suggestions on dealing specifically with root aphids:
• Natural predators: For outdoor plants, predators such as birds feed on
aphid eggs, parasitic wasps also attack the eggs, and ladybugs eat
aphids on top of the soil.
• Beneficial nematodes: Introduce beneficial nematodes into the soil
and they will protect against a number of soil-borne pests including
root aphids, without harming beneficials like earthworms. Nematodes
can be used on indoor or outdoor plants.
• Neem oil: While it won’t kill the root aphids, it can help keep an
infestation from spreading.
• Avoid spreading infestations: Be especially careful when relocating or
disposing infected plants to not drop soil. This can lead to spreading
the infestation to other pots or nearby plants, or tracking soil on the
soles of shoes to other locations.
HOW TO REVIVE A STRUGGLING GARDEN
Disappointment abounds when a budding garden goes bad.

Unfortunately, it can happen to even the most experienced gardeners. There
could be several reasons as to why your gorgeous blooms look gaunt and it’s
important to figure out what the cause is prior to performing a risky
resuscitation. Here are some common causes of garden failure with tips and
advice on how to revive your struggling back yard treasures.
92 | P a g e
Problem 1: Too Much, Not Enough

Watering and sunlight are the two
essential things necessary to have a
happy and health garden. However,
balance is imperative. If your plants are
withering or crispy, they need less
sunlight and more water. If your plants
are not growing and the tips of the
leaves are white or yellow, they need
more sunlight and less water. Planting
season-appropriate plants will help with balance the resources that the plant
will need.
Problem 2: Famine
The nutrients that are present in the soil are what
your plant will use to grow. If there are no essential
minerals to be absorbed, due to over-gardening or
unfertilized soil, then the tips of your plants might curl
or be misshapen and your produce or flower may
not grow to maturity. The best way to fix this
problem is to end your plant famine and mulch in
fertilized soil around your plant. With gentle
watering, your back yard treasures have a decent
hope of survival.
Problem 3: Unwanted Visitors

Pest and animals can be a major
deterrent for growth within a
garden. This problem might be the
most obvious-because of the holes
present in your plants, or in the
ground — however, can be the most
tricky to deal with. Traps, netting or
plant friendly chemicals may help
keep unwanted pests away. A
“catch crop” of pest attracting
vegetation can also help distract
ravenous little beast from your main garden.
93 | P a g e
POST TEST Landscape Installation and Maintenance
MULTIPLE CHOICE: Choose the best answer and write the letter of your

Republic Act?
a. RA7796 b. RA. 7766 c. RA. 7786 d. RA.7756
_____2. It has 3-4 tines used to break up hard soil around a plant.

to electronics skills.
a. LIM NC II b. EMS NC III c. CSS NC II d. EIM NC II
_____4. It is used to dig and mix soil and plant bulbs.

____ 5. It means any group of interrelated jobs or any occupation.

_____6. It has a long handle and are round or square pointed for soil
purposes.
_____8. It cuts weeds and grasses in uncultivated areas.

_____10. It has a longer blades for soil purposes.

_____12. It is effective in breaking up soil clods.
a. spading fork b. spades c. scoops d. garden hoe
94 | P a g e
a. 5 00 311107 b. 5 00 311108 c. 5 00 311109 d. none
_____14. This common competency with Code AGR611380 is _______________.

two venues.
II. SEQUENCING OF EVENTS: Arrange the sequence of the following by

Make layers
Cover
Aerate
Monitor temperature
Break it down
Add moisture
Neutralize odors
Add starter
95 | P a g e

for creating an enticing garden). Write the letter of your answer on the
space provided.
Column A Column B

B
C
96 | P a g e
References:
Biondo, Ronald J. and Charles B. Schroeder. Introduction to Landscaping Design,
Construction, and Maintenance. (2003). Interstate Publishers, Inc.: Danville, IL.
Ingels, Jack E. Ornamental Horticulture: Principles & Practices. (1985). Delmar Publishers
Inc.: Albany, New York.
Introduction to Ornamental Horticulture. (1986). Catalog No. 115B. Instructional Materials

Service: College Station, Texas.
Ornamental Horticulture. (1982). Department of Vocational Agriculture and Renewable

Natural Resources Education and Washington State Commission for Vocational
Education: Olympia, Washington.
Richardson, William B. and Gary E. Moore. Working in Horticulture. (1980). McGraw-Hill,

Inc., Dallas, Texas.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/clearing-and-grubbing.htm
https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/diy-land-clearing
http://www.newland-scaping.com/GardenLandscapeDesign/mini-garden-landscape-
design
https://www.pinterest.ph/pin/608760074602666604/
https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/453174781231878209/
https://www.gardendesign.com/soil/
97 | P a g e

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Landscape Installation and Maintenance

Landscape Installation and Maintenance

II. DURATION : 14 hours (3 hrs. per week)

III. MODULE DESCRIPTION:

This module is composed of 6 lessons; it discusses the brief history of

After studying this Module, the student should be able to:

1. recognize and understand Landscape installation

2. recognize the competencies of Landscape Installation and

3. prepare site clearing and grubbing

5. perform site preparation activities

5. install plant support

6. apply maintenance operation

MODULE : Landscape Installation and Maintenance

• Individual (board foot calculation activity)

VII. GRADING SYSTEM:

Mid-Term and Final Examination 25%

_____ 1. The “Technical Educational and Skills Development Act of 1994” is

_____ 3. This qualification consists of competencies that a person must possess

_____4. It is used to dig and mix soil and plant bulbs.

____ 5. It means any group of interrelated jobs or any occupation.

_____8. It cuts weeds and grasses in uncultivated areas.

_____10. It has a longer blades for soil purposes.

_____14. This common competency with Code AGR611380 is _______________.

II. SEQUENCING OF EVENTS: Arrange the sequence of the following by

HOW TO MAKE COMPOST (1-8)

MATCHING TYPE: Match Column A (landscape design tips for creating

__________ 1. The Graceful Sweep of a Curve A

__________ 2. The Mystery of the Unseen

__________ 3. Pooling and Channeling

__________ 5. The Principle of Three Depths D

__________6. Tricking the Eye

__________ 7. The Long View

Landscape Installation and Tools

After studying this lesson, the student should be able to:

1. define landscape installation

2. identify landscape installation tools and its uses

TOOLS USED IN LANDSCAPE INSTALLATION

1. Living elements flora or fauna.

• Are just as important as power tools

Shovels have long handles & are

Spades have longer blades.

Scoops are flat with high sides.

Garden hoe: Only the bottom

Weeding hoe: Has two sharp prongs

Grubbing hoe: Has two

Spading Fork: Effective in

Pitchfork: Used to move

Lawn rake: Used for clippings,

Metal bow rake: Used for heavy

Anvil pruner: Top blade is sharp

Lopping shears: Used to

Multi-purpose knife: Has a

Bow saw: Prunes medium-

Curved blade saw: Prunes

Hand Crank Spreaders

Lawn/Utility Carts are ideal

Grass shears: Used to trip grass in

Weed cutter: Cuts weeds &

Trowel: Used to dig & mix soil

_14. This common competency with Code AGR611380 is ___________.