26

BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

AFTER READING THIS CHAPTER, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO:

1. Describe nutritional concerns associated with baked goods and desserts.

2. Describe allergy and food intolerance concerns associated with baked goods and desserts.
3. Using a knowledge of ingredient functions, describe how to reduce or eliminate fat, sugar,
gluten, dairy products, and eggs in baking formulas.

WHAT IS “HEALTHFUL” food? First, of course, the food must not cause harm. In

light of our increasing awareness of food allergies, certain foods that are perfectly

safe for some people are anything but healthful for those who are allergic to one

or more of their ingredients. Second, to be healthful, a food must contribute to

our well-being. It might be argued that even a rich dessert that has no nutritional

value and is high in fat and sugar can contribute to our emotional well-being

simply because it is delicious and satisfying. Most pastry chefs would probably

agree with that statement. However, what we usually mean when we say a food is

healthful is that it is high in nutrients and low in calories from fat and sugar.

683
684 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

It is sometimes said that bakers are in the “fat business” because the products they
make are high in fat. This is not completely true, or at best it is misleading. Many of the
most important products of the bakeshop are low in fat or are fat-free, from French
breads to fruit compotes and meringues. Still, it is true that other products, such as
pastries and cookies, are high in fat and low in nutrients other than calories. To address
this, many pastry chefs today are trying to develop more healthful versions of popular
items. More importantly—because allergic reactions can be fatal—cooks, bakers, and
pastry chefs alike are responding to the very real problem posed by food allergies by
producing foods that are both delicious and safe for their customers.

NUTRITIONAL CONCERNS
DIET AND HEALTH are increasingly in the news. Rising obesity rates are regularly in the
headlines. Increasing numbers of people suffer from food allergies. Health problems caused by
diet are increasing the costs of medical care. Often, it seems, people are too afraid of food to
enjoy it. At the same time, our love affair with restaurants and bakeries continues to grow. People
want food they can enjoy and that is also healthful.
Dietary concerns can be divided into two broad areas: those about nutrition, and those
about food allergies and intolerances. Having good nutrition means consuming a varied diet
that includes essential vitamins, minerals, proteins, and other nutrients. At the same time, it
means limiting the intake of foods that can be harmful in large quantities. Managing weight gain
requires limiting calories, especially calories from fats and sugar. The term empty calories refers
to foods that provide few nutrients per calorie. Foods of high nutrient density are those that
have a high level of nutrients per calorie. Fruits, vegetables, and whole grains are examples of
foods with high nutrient density, while refined sugar and flour have low nutrient density.
For the customer, choosing nutritious foods is optional. Even people who usually choose
nutritious foods can enjoy a rich pastry or choose a piece of white bread over whole grain.
Enjoying limited sweets as part of a balanced diet provides enjoyment without necessarily having
ill effects. For those with food allergies, however, choosing the right foods can be a matter of life
or death. Allergic reactions can range from discomfort to severe illness and even death, so
addressing these concerns is of great importance to all food service workers.
In this chapter, we approach nutrition concerns and allergies in separate sections because
they require somewhat different approaches to finding alternatives in the bakeshop. After explor-
ing the main dietary issues, we examine ways to modify formulas for special needs. The chapter
concludes with a selection of formulas that give examples of ways to satisfy special dietary needs.
These formulas were developed using the techniques outlined in this chapter.
Dietary baking is a large and complex subject, one that encompasses many subtopics, such
as gluten-free baking and baking with sugar substitutes. Many books have been written about
each of these subtopics, so this chapter is intended to serve only as an introduction to them, to
familiarize you with the main issues and the general procedures for devising formulas suitable for
restricted diets. Consult the Bibliography (p. 748) for books that delve more deeply into the topics
touched on here. In particular, you will find collections of formulas for many different dietary
purposes.

Nutrition in the Bakeshop

The role of the baker or pastry chef in preparing nutritious foods varies greatly, depending on the
part of the industry in which he or she works. Food services in schools, hospitals, and nursing
homes must, of course, plan menus to meet basic nutritional needs. A qualified dietitian is usu-
ally required in such establishments. On the other hand, retail bakers and restaurant pastry chefs
have a primary responsibility to prepare a variety of attractive and flavorful items that will sell.
For them, it is often good business to include more healthful preparations among the items they
offer, but many customers will still prefer chocolate mousse over fruit compote.
 NUTRITIONAL CONCERNS 685

Satisfying nutritional concerns has two aspects: providing desirable nutrients and avoiding
undesirable nutrients. A nutrient is a substance that is essential for the functioning or growth of FIBER
an organism. For this discussion, we divide nutrients into two categories:
The term fiber refers to a
1. Nutrients that provide energy: fats, carbohydrates, and proteins. (Note that proteins can be
group of complex carbohy-
used by the body for energy, but their more important function is to provide the building
drates that can’t be absorbed
blocks of all cells. See Basic Nutrients Reviewed sidebar.)
and used by the body. Thus,
2. Nutrients that are needed for metabolism, or basic body functioning, including all the chem- fiber supplies no calories or
ical processes that take place within cells: vitamins, minerals, and water. nutrients. However, fiber is
A healthful, balanced diet is one that includes all the nutrients in just the right amounts, important for the proper
not too much or too little of any of them. For many people, balancing the diet means con- functioning of the intestinal
suming foods with more vitamins and minerals—the metabolism nutrients—and less fat and tract and the elimination of
carbohydrates—the energy nutrients. body waste. In addition, there
is evidence that sufficient
dietary fiber helps prevent
Increasing Desirable Nutrients some kinds of cancers and
In our culture, foods from the bakeshop form a relatively small part of the normal diet. Thus, we helps lower cholesterol in the
don’t normally look to these foods—desserts, pastries, and breads—to give us more than a small blood. Fruits and vegetables,
part of our essential nutrients each day. especially raw, and whole
Nevertheless, bakers can take some steps to give customers the option of choosing items grains supply dietary fiber.
with more vitamins, minerals, and fiber (see the Fiber sidebar). The most significant sources of
valuable vitamins and minerals among bakeshop ingredients are whole grains, fruits, and nuts.
Bakers have ways of incorporating these ingredients to give customers the option of choosing
more nutritious breads and desserts. For example:
• Replace part of the white flour in doughs and batters with whole wheat flour. Replacing up
to 2 ounces per pound (125 g per kg) usually has only a small effect on dough formation.
Replacing more than this can be done, but the bread or other product is likely to be
heavier.

B A S I C N U T R I E N TS R E V I E W E D
Carbohydrates are the body’s most important sources of food energy. These compounds
consist of long chains of carbon atoms with oxygen and hydrogen atoms attached to the sides.
Starches and sugars are the most important dietary carbohydrates.

Fats supply energy to the body in highly concentrated form. Also, some fatty acids are
necessary for regulating certain body functions. Third, fats act as carriers of fat-soluble
vitamins.

Proteins are essential for growth, for building body tissue, and for basic body functions.
They can also be used for energy if the diet doesn’t contain enough carbohydrates and fats.

Vitamins are present in foods in extremely small quantities, but they are essential for
regulating body functions. Unlike proteins, fats, and carbohydrates, they supply no energy, but
some of them must be present in order for energy to be utilized in the body. Water-soluble
vitamins (the B vitamins and vitamin C) are not stored in the body, so they must be consumed
every day. Fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) can be stored in the body, but the total
amount eaten over time must be sufficient.

Minerals, like vitamins, are also consumed in small quantities and are essential for regulating
certain body functions. Major minerals include calcium, chloride, magnesium, phosphorus,
sulfur, sodium, and potassium. Trace minerals, eaten in even smaller amounts, include
chromium, copper, iron, zinc, and iodine. Of all these, sodium, the major mineral in table salt,
can contribute to high blood pressure if eaten in large quantities, as it too often is.
Water supplies no energy, but the body can’t function without it. The adult human body is
50 to 60 percent water by weight.
686 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

• Replace part of the white flour with whole-grain flour from another grain, such as oats, bar-
ley, amaranth, buckwheat, soy, or millet, or a grain product such as wheat germ, wheat bran,
or oat bran. For yeast breads, you may need to use a wheat flour with higher gluten to com-
pensate for the lack of gluten in these other grains.
• Add a small amount of flaxseed meal to doughs to provide beneficial fiber and fatty acids.
• Use flaxseeds, rolled oats, sunflower seeds, and other grains and seeds as toppings for
breads, rolls, and quick breads.
• Seek out more whole-grain and mixed-grain bread formulas. There are several in this book,
and many more are available in bookstores, libraries, and online.
• Add ground nuts in small quantities to dough formulas, and add chopped nuts to muffins
and pastries.
• Add raisins and other dried fruits to breads and other baked goods. (See, for example, the Fig
Hazelnut Bread on page 177.)
• Offer more desserts made with fruits, such as fruit compotes and fruit coulis.

Reducing Undesirable Nutrients

The idea of reducing nutrients to be more nutritious may seem a contradiction, but the fact is that
many people consume far too many energy-producing nutrients in the form of fats, sugars, and
starches. As a result, many people suffer from obesity, heart disease, diabetes, and other ail-
ments related to diet. For the baker, this is a difficult problem to address because these compo-
nents, especially starches, are the baker’s stock in trade. For the consumer, one of the best ways
to cut down on consumption of fats, starches, and sugars is simply to avoid breads and desserts,
or at least reduce consumption of them. Nevertheless, the baker can take some measures to
make choices easier for health-conscious consumers. To understand how to approach the prob-
lem, a short review of these energy nutrients and issues concerning them is needed.

Calories and Weight Gain

The calorie (or, more correctly, the kilocalorie; see the Calories and Kilocalories sidebar) is a unit
of energy measurement. It is defined as the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of
C A LO R I E S A N D 1 kilogram of water by 1°C.
K I LO C A LO R I E S The calorie is used to measure how much of the energy the body needs to function is sup-
plied by certain foods. Carbohydrates, proteins, and fats can be used by the body to supply
In scientific terminology, the energy.
amount of heat needed to raise
the temperature of 1 kilogram • 1 gram of carbohydrate supplies 4 calories.
of water by 1°C is called a • 1 gram of protein supplies 4 calories.
kilocalorie, sometimes written • 1 gram of fat supplies 9 calories.
Calorie (with a capital “C”)
and abbreviated kcal. When There is a direct connection between calorie intake, physical activity, and weight gain or
written with a small “c,” the loss. Simply put, if you consume more calories than you burn, you gain weight. If you consume
term calorie refers to a unit of fewer calories than you burn, you lose weight. All the diet schemes and fashions in the world—at
energy measurement that is least those that are medically sound—can be reduced to this. In other words, losing weight is pos-
only 1,000th as large—the sible only by eating fewer calories, burning more calories through exercise, or both.
amount of heat needed to raise
the temperature of 1 gram of Fat
water by 1°C. As the above list shows, fats are a concentrated form of energy, supplying more than twice as
Nevertheless, in discussions many calories per gram as do carbohydrates and proteins. This suggests that reducing fats in the
of nutrition, the word calorie diet is an effective dietary method of weight loss. Always keep in mind, however, that some fat is
is commonly substituted for necessary in the diet, both for regulating certain body functions and for carrying fat-soluble
kilocalorie. Just remember vitamins.
that when you see calorie in Fats may be classified as saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated. Saturated fats
connection with food, the are solid at room temperature. Animal products—eggs and dairy products, as well as meats, poul-
real meaning is Calorie try, and fish—and solid shortenings are the major source of saturated fats. Tropical oils such as
(or kilocalorie). coconut oil and palm kernel oil are also rich in saturated fats. Health experts believe eating high
levels of these fats contribute significantly to heart disease and other health problems.
 NUTRITIONAL CONCERNS 687

Polyunsaturated fats and monounsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature. Although
consuming too much of any kind of fat is unhealthy, these fats are considered more healthful than
saturated fats. Polyunsaturated fats are found in vegetable oils such as corn oil, safflower oil,
sunflower oil, and cottonseed oil. High levels of monounsaturated fats are found in olive oil
and canola oil. Recent research has suggested that monounsaturated fat may actually lower the
levels of the most harmful kinds of cholesterol in the body. Both kinds of unsaturated fats are also
found in other plant products as well, including whole grains, nuts, and some fruits and
vegetables.
One group of saturated fats of special concern is trans fats. These fats occur only in small
amounts in nature. Most of the trans fats in our diets come from manufactured fats subjected to
a process called hydrogenation. Hydrogenated fats are fats that are changed from liquid to solid
by adding hydrogen atoms to the fat molecules. This is the process used to make products such
as solid shortening and margarine. Trans fats are of concern because they limit the body’s ability
to rid itself of cholesterol that builds up on the walls of arteries.
Fats are members of a group of compounds called lipids. Another lipid found in the body is
cholesterol, a fatty substance that has been closely linked with heart disease because it collects
on the walls of arteries and blocks the flow of blood to the heart and other vital organs. It is found
only in animal products and is especially high in egg yolks, butterfat, and organ meats such as
liver and brains. The human body can manufacture its own cholesterol, so not all the cholesterol
in the blood is necessarily from foods. Although some cholesterol is necessary for body functions,
it is not considered a nutrient because the body is able to manufacture all the cholesterol it
needs. Experts generally agree it is best to keep the cholesterol in the diet as low as possible.

Sugars and Starches

Sugars are simple carbohydrates. Simple sugars, such as glucose, are small compounds contain-
ing 6 carbon atoms. Table sugar, or sucrose, is a larger sugar molecule with 12 carbon atoms.
Sugars are found in sweets and, to a lesser extent, in fruits and vegetables.
Starches are complex carbohydrates consisting of long chains of simple sugars bound
together. They are found in such foods as grains, bread, peas and beans, and many vegetables
and fruits.
Most authorities believe that complex carbohydrates, especially those from whole grains
and unrefined foods, are better for you than simple carbohydrates. This is partly because starchy
foods also have many other nutrients, while sweets have few other nutrients. Also, there is some
evidence that a lot of sugar in the diet may contribute to heart and circulatory diseases. Simple
sugars and refined starches are primary sources of empty calories.
Many consumers believe that honey, raw sugar, and some other sweeteners are more nutri-
tious than refined white sugar. It is true that these products have some beneficial minerals and
other nutrients, but only in tiny amounts. They are still mostly sugar. Substituting one of these for
white sugar does not reduce the amount of carbohydrate in a formula.

Sodium
As explained above, excess sodium in the diet has been linked to high blood pressure, so people
with this ailment are generally advised to reduce their sodium intake. Salt is the primary source
of sodium in the diet. Most of a person’s salt intake, however, does not come from baked goods
and desserts but rather from main courses, side dishes, and salty snacks. For people on salt-free
diets, reducing or eliminating salt in desserts and pastries may be advisable, and this can be done
with only a small effect on flavor. For most people, however, this change will have only a small
effect on their total sodium intake. Be careful, also, when reducing the salt content of yeast
breads, as one of the functions of salt is to regulate yeast activity (see p. 88).

Vegetarian Diets
A vegetarian diet is one consisting entirely or mostly of foods derived from plants. People follow
vegetarian diets for a variety of reasons: concerns about nutrition and health, ethical standards,
or moral, religious, or cultural beliefs.
There are several types of vegetarian diets. The vegan diet is the most restrictive. It
includes plant products only. All animal products, including dairy and eggs, are off-limits.
688 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

Lacto-vegetarians eat dairy products in addition to plant products, but they will not eat other
animal products. Ovo-vegetarians eat eggs in addition to plant products. Lacto-ovo-vegetarians
eat dairy and egg products as well as plant products.
For the baker or pastry chef, the main ingredients of concern to vegetarians are the
following:
• Dairy products, including milk, cream, butter, and cheese, must not be included in products
intended for vegans. They are acceptable for lacto-vegetarians and lacto-ovo-vegetarians.
• Eggs must not be included in products intended for vegans, although they are permitted for
ovo-vegetarians and lacto-ovo-vegetarians.
• Honey should not be used in baked goods and desserts for vegans, because it is an animal
product.
• Refined sugar poses problems for vegans. Because some cane sugar is refined with the use of
animal bone char, many vegans avoid all refined sugar, to be on the safe side. If you can
assure the customer that the sugar is made from sugar beets and not refined with bone char,
some vegans may be willing to eat it. A safer approach is to substitute a product like date
sugar or maple sugar. These products impart a distinctive flavor, however, and are also more
expensive than refined white sugar. In addition, avoid using any prepared ingredient that
contains sugar, because you can’t be sure of the source of that sugar.
• Gelatin is an animal product, so it must be avoided in vegetarian products. Agar-agar,
a gelatinlike product made from seaweed, can be substituted (see p. 82).

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What do the terms empty calorie and nutrient density mean, and how are they related?
❚ What are the six basic nutrients, and what are their functions?
❚ What techniques can be used to add desirable nutrients to baked goods?
❚ What nutrients can be reduced to create a more healthy diet?
❚ What are the main types of vegetarian diet?

FOOD ALLERGIES AND INTOLERANCES

AN ALLERGEN IS any substance that triggers an allergic reaction. Many foods, including many
ingredients used in the bakeshop, are potential allergens. Health agencies report that more and
more people are being diagnosed with food allergies each year, so this is a growing problem
worldwide.
A food allergy is an abnormal response to a food triggered by the immune system. In other
words, the body’s immune system mistakenly believes a food item is harmful and reacts to pro-
tect the body. This reaction may include the production of chemicals that are actually harmful to
the body, sometimes even fatal. A sudden, severe, allergic reaction of the immune system is
called anaphylaxis.
The foods that most commonly spur allergic reactions are peanuts, tree nuts, eggs, fish,
shellfish, milk, soybeans, and wheat. Note that, with the exception of fish and shellfish, all of
these products may be found in the bakeshop. Wheat, milk, and eggs are among the baker’s main
ingredients.
A food allergy is not the same as a food intolerance. A person may develop gas and bloating
after eating a particular food, but this reaction does not involve the immune system. For example,
people with lactose intolerance lack an enzyme that enables them to digest milk sugar, or lac-
tose. These individuals may develop gas and abdominal pain when they consume dairy products.
For the purpose of this discussion, we treat allergies and intolerances together because they both
involve foods that must be avoided by the affected customer.
 FOOD ALLERGIES AND INTOLERANCES 689

In food service operations and retail bakeries, precautions must be taken both in the
preparation of food and in service to customers. The following are just a few of the steps you
should take.
Food Preparation
1. Train staff to be aware of ingredients that can cause allergic reactions.
2. Read the ingredient labels on all prepared food items used in the kitchen.
3. Don’t make casual or unannounced ingredient substitutions.
4. Avoid cross-contamination. For example, a “safe” food could become dangerously allergenic
if it is prepared on an inadequately cleaned prep table containing dust from peanuts used in
prepping an earlier item. Ideally, set up a separate prep area for preparing foods for allergy
sufferers.
Food Service
1. Service and sales personnel should be aware of the ingredients in all menu items and should
be prepared to answer questions about ingredients or to consult someone on staff who
knows the answers.
2. Be sensitive to customers’ questions; if someone asks whether an ingredient is used, find out
if that customer has an allergy. If a customer’s questions cannot be answered with confi-
dence, admit it and be prepared to suggest alternative choices.
Among bakeshop ingredients, nuts, gluten, dairy products, soy products, and eggs are the
primary culprits for sufferers of food allergies and intolerances. To this list we add alcohol, which
is not an allergen but which must be completely avoided by some people.

Nuts
Peanuts and tree nuts—such as walnuts, almonds, Brazil nuts, and pecans—are among the most
potent allergens. They are responsible for many of the 150 to 200 deaths from food allergies each
year in the United States. (Note: Peanuts are not true nuts but legumes, like peas and beans,
so the allergies are somewhat different.) Even trace amounts of these nuts, such as dust from
peanuts left on a work surface, can trigger an allergic reaction. The only safe measure to take
is complete avoidance. It is not enough, for example, to leave the nuts out of a baked item or
dessert. The surest way to guarantee a product is nut-free is to make it in a separate prep area
using equipment that is reserved strictly for use in preparing goods that do not contain nuts.
Fortunately for the baker or pastry chef, nuts are not critical ingredients in most baked
goods. Most formulas do not call for nuts, and it is not difficult to eliminate them from those that
do, or to substitute similar preparations—for example, substitute a plain meringue disk for japo-
naise (p. 342), or use plain short dough instead of linzer dough (p. 314).

Gluten
Celiac disease is a genetic (inherited) disorder in which the intestine is unable to process gluten
proteins (see the “Celiac Disease” sidebar). Symptoms may be severe, and there is no cure. The
only remedy is to avoid gluten completely.
The difficulty for the baker is that gluten is the backbone of
breads and many other baked goods, and is a component of wheat
CELIAC DISEASE
flour, the baker’s main ingredient. In addition, gluten proteins are
Celiac (pronounced SEE lee ak) is a disease of the immune
found in rye, barley, spelt, and oats.
system, like other food allergies. When gluten is ingested by
Nevertheless, it is possible to bake a variety of products using
someone with this disease, the gluten proteins damage the
gluten-free flours, such as rice, millet, buckwheat, amaranth, and
lining of the small intestine. As a result, the body is less able
quinoa flours; potato starch, cornstarch, and cornmeal; and flours
to absorb other nutrients. The disease has many, and varied,
from chickpeas and other legumes. The structure-building proper-
symptoms—including anemia, fatigue, intestinal pain, and
ties of gluten proteins must be supplied by other ingredients, such
malnutrition—making it difficult for doctors to diagnose.
as egg proteins and vegetable gums. These ingredients don’t work
Only recently has the scope of the problem become more
the same way as gluten, however, so the texture of the products
widely recognized. There are still probably many people who
will differ. Doughs will be less elastic, and baked items are likely to
suffer from the disease without knowing what it is.
be more crumbly than similar items baked with wheat flour.
690 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

Lactose Intolerance and Milk Allergies

Lactose, also called milk sugar, is a form of simple sugar found in dairy products. Some people
are unable to digest lactose, and drinking milk or eating products containing lactose results in
intestinal discomfort, gas, bloating, and other symptoms. Because lactose is not an important
component of baked goods, lactose-free milk and other lactose-free dairy products can easily be
substituted in most formulas. Other milk replacers, such as soy milk, can also be used.
Milk allergies are immune reactions to milk proteins, rather than to lactose. This allergy is
fairly common in infants, but most children grow out of it. The allergy is uncommon in adults.
Those who suffer from it must usually avoid all dairy products.

Soy
Soy products contain at least 15 proteins, and it is not clear whether allergic reactions are caused
by one or more of these proteins or by other components of soybeans. A great many prepared
foods contain soy products, so it is necessary to read ingredient labels carefully. The emulsifier
lecithin, for one, is used in many products, including chocolate, and may not be identified as
derived from soybeans. As with lactose, soy products are not essential ingredients in most bake-
shop formulas, so avoiding them is relatively easy, as long as bakers are attentive to ingredient
labels.

Eggs
Like milk allergy, egg allergy affects primarily infants and children, and most people outgrow it by
the time they are about five years old. Nevertheless, it does affect some adults, who may react
with stomach cramps, skin rashes, coughing and wheezing, or, in some cases, severe anaphylaxis
(see page 688). The allergic reactions are triggered by one or more of the proteins in the egg.
Some people are allergic to egg white proteins, while others have a reaction to the yolks.
Because many common egg substitutes are made with egg whites, these products can’t be
used as baking ingredients for allergy sufferers. Eggless egg substitutes, on the other hand, con-
tain no egg products. They are made of flour or other starches, plus vegetable gums and stabiliz-
ers, and, sometimes, soy protein. They are intended for use in baked goods only—that is, in
doughs and batters—and are not suitable for use in custards or breakfast egg preparations.

Alcohol
Unlike the other food items discussed so far, alcohol is not an allergen, but it must be avoided
by people suffering from the disease alcoholism. Trace quantities of alcohol are present in a
number of products of the bakeshop or pastry department. Alcohol is a byproduct of yeast
fermentation and so is present in freshly baked bread, but the amount is so small it doesn’t
generally pose a problem. By the time the bread cools and is stored, nearly all the alcohol has
evaporated.
Small quantities of liqueurs may be used to flavor dessert syrups used to moisten cakes,
but here, too, the amount per portion is usually minute. Be prepared to advise customers, how-
ever, if a dessert contains significant amounts of alcohol. In some cases, merely the flavor of the
alcoholic beverage, even if the alcohol has been burned away, can trigger an undesirable
reaction.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What is the difference between food allergy and food intolerance?
❚ What are the most important food allergies and intolerances?
 MODIFYING FORMULAS FOR SPECIAL NEEDS 691

MODIFYING FORMULAS FOR SPECIAL NEEDS

SO FAR IN this chapter we’ve focused on the ingredients or components of baking formulas and
desserts that may have to be modified to accommodate special diets, and why some customers
may need or desire to avoid those ingredients. It should be clear from this information that there
is no single solution to dietary baking. For example, the discussion of increasing vitamins and
minerals suggests adding nuts to baked goods to increase nutrients. However, the discussion of
allergens indicates that nuts must be completely avoided by some customers. Similarly, for peo-
ple with lactose intolerance, soy milk may be substituted for dairy milk as an ingredient, but that
substitution would then make the product unsuitable for people with soy allergy.
In other words, there are many approaches to baking for special needs, but each is directed
at a specific problem. No one of them is suitable for every problem or every customer.

Ingredient Functions
Whether you want to modify an ingredient of a baking formula to reduce fat or calories or to elimi-
nate an allergen, you must first understand the functions of that ingredient in the formula.
Three ways to modify an ingredient are to eliminate it, reduce it, or substitute another ingre-
dient for it.
Eliminating an ingredient may be the best method if that ingredient does not have a major
structural or flavor function in a formula. For example, eliminating the chopped nuts in a brownie
or cookie formula does not affect the dough or batter, so this step can be easily taken.
Reducing the amount of an ingredient may be successful, even if the reduction makes a
slight change in the finished product. For example, some quick bread formulas are high in fat.
Perhaps in those formulas the fat could be reduced to make a more healthful product, one that is
still appealing even if the texture is slightly drier.
Substituting other ingredients is the only option when the ingredient has a critical structural
function in the baked item. Wheat flour is the main example. The gluten in wheat flour is impor-
tant for the structure of many baked goods. Eliminating it would make the formula unworkable.
The only option is to substitute other ingredients that can take on those structure-building
functions.
The explanations of basic ingredients in Chapter  4 include lists of the primary functions
of the principal ingredients. Review these sections so the functions are fresh in your mind for
the following discussion. In addition, reread the discussion on cake formula balance on pages
385–386. The basic principles explained there apply to all doughs and batters:
• Tougheners or structure builders include flour and eggs.
• Tenderizers have the opposite function of structure builders. They include fats, sugars, and
leaveners.
• Moisteners include water, liquid milk, syrups, and eggs.
• Dryers include flours, other starches, milk solids, and cocoa powder.
Apply the principle of formula balance when you are modifying a formula for dietary pur-
poses. When an ingredient is eliminated or reduced, you must balance the formula by doing one
or both of the following:

1. Replace the ingredient with another that performs the same functions. For example, when
reducing fat, which is a tenderizer, add or increase other tenderizers, such as sugars.
2. Reduce the amount of ingredients that have the opposite effect. For example, if you are elim-
inating gluten, a toughener or structure builder, also reduce the tenderizers to maintain
structure.
The next section applies these principles to ingredients that bakers may want to eliminate or
reduce for health or dietary reasons.
692 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

Ingredient Substitutions
The ingredients or components discussed in this section are those that may have to be reduced
or omitted for dietary reasons. However, these components perform important functions in bak-
ing formulas. When one of them is reduced or eliminated, its functions must be performed by
other ingredients.

Fat
Modifying the fat content of a formula usually involves one of the following goals:
1. Replacing saturated fats and trans fats with more healthful unsaturated fats
2. Reducing the total amount of fat

REPLACING SATURATED FATS AND TRANS-FATS

WITH MORE HEALTHFUL UNSATURATED FATS
Recall that saturated fats are solid at room temperature. Saturated fats include the most impor-
tant fats in the bakeshop: butter, shortening, and margarine. Unsaturated fats are liquid oils.
Fats in doughs and batters function as tenderizers, and they improve the mouth feel of cakes
and quick breads by giving the feel of moistness. When an oil is used in place of a solid fat, the oil
still performs these tenderizing and moisturizing functions. In fact, because the oil doesn’t solidify
at room temperature, a muffin made with oil may seem even moister than one made with solid fat.
Another important function of solid fats is to form and retain air cells when creamed with
sugar. Some creaming-method batters depend entirely on these air cells for leavening. Oils can-
not be creamed with sugar to form air cells. Therefore, oil cannot be substituted for solid fats
when creaming is essential to leavening. However, sometimes it is possible to substitute oil for
part of the fat. When trying this substitution, make a test batch and compare the quality of the
resulting product with the regular formula. In most cases, the best procedure is to cream the solid
fat with the sugar and add the oil to the batter with other liquids.
To make up for lost leavening power, increase the baking powder, or fold in whipped egg
whites.
Liquid fats work better when incorporated using the muffin method, rather than the cream-
ing method. Try reworking creaming-method formulas to convert them to the muffin method.
When the fat is butter, flavor is also another important factor. If butter is a primary flavor in
the product, substituting other fats for it is likely to decrease quality. The substitution works bet-
ter for products with other dominant flavors, such as chocolate cake, spice cake, and many quick
breads.
There is no substitute for solid fat in laminated doughs. The rolled-in fat in some formulas
may be reduced slightly, but the resulting product may not rise as well or be as flaky.
Finally, remember that oil has as much fat and calories per gram as solid fat—even more, in
the case of butter—so substituting oil for solid fat does not reduce total fat or calories. It reduces
unhealthful saturated fats only.

REDUCING THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF FAT

Reducing the fat in a formula means reducing the total amount of tenderizers. To maintain the
desired texture of the baked item, then, you must either substitute other tenderizers, reduce the
tougheners, or both.
Use the following techniques when reducing total fat:

To Reduce Tougheners
• Use a softer flour. For example, substitute cake flour for pastry flour, or substitute pastry
flour for part of the bread flour.
• Substitute whole-grain flours, especially of a gluten-free grain, for part of the wheat flour.
• Reduce the quantity of egg. You will probably have to increase other liquids to make up for
the lost moisture of the egg.
• Avoid overmixing, which develops gluten.
• Avoid overbaking, which dries the product and also toughens protein.
 MODIFYING FORMULAS FOR SPECIAL NEEDS 693

To Increase Tenderizers in the Formula or Add Other Tenderizers or

Moisteners in Place of the Fat
• Increase sugars. Liquid sweeteners such as honey, molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup
are useful for this purpose.
• Add a fruit or vegetable purée. Many purées can substitute for fats to increase the tenderness
and moistness of a baked item, such as applesauce, prune purée, date purée, squash or
pumpkin purée, fruit jelly or jam, banana purée, and fruit juice concentrates. Select a flavor
that blends well with the flavors of the baked item.
• Add a dairy fat substitute. Fat-free buttermilk, sour cream, and yogurt can be substituted for
part of the fat. They increase moistness, and their acidity tenderizes the gluten. Unlike fruit
or vegetable purées, they don’t change the flavor significantly.
• Use reduced-fat margarine or butter. These products contain less fat and more water and
milk protein than regular margarine and butter. They can be substituted in many quick
breads and cakes.
Finally, remember that there are many low-fat items already in the baker’s standard reper-
tory. For example:
• Use a low-fat icing, such as fondant or boiled icing, instead of buttercreams on cakes.
• Use angel food or sponge cakes instead of high-fat creaming-method and high-ratio cakes.
• Use baked meringues instead of short doughs in pastries and tarts.
• Use fruit fillings instead of high-fat fillings such as frangipane and cream cheese.

Sugar
In addition to adding sweetness and flavor, sugars perform the following functions in baked
goods:
• They create tenderness and fineness of texture.
• They retain moisture, thus improving texture and keeping qualities.
• They act as creaming agents with fats, to provide leavening.
• They give crust color because of their browning properties.

When sugar in a formula is reduced, these functions must be performed by other

ingredients.
Some customers who want to reduce or eliminate refined white sugar in their diets have no
objection to natural sugars like honey, even though they may have the same number of calories.
Another granular sugar, such as date sugar or maple sugar, can be substituted for white sugar in
equal weights without other changes to the formula. If a liquid sugar is used, such as honey,
brown rice syrup, molasses, or maple syrup, the following adjustments to the formula may be
necessary:
• Liquid sugars have no creaming ability, so other forms of leavening must be substituted. You
may be able to mix the batter by the muffin method rather than the creaming method, as
long as you increase the quantity of baking powder.
• If a large quantity of liquid sugar is used, reduce the other liquids in the formula.
• Not all liquid sugars have the same sweetening power, so you may have to adjust quantities.
Brown rice syrup, for example, is only 30 to 60 percent as sweet as white sugar, whereas
honey is sweeter than white sugar.
Sugar substitutes are used when it is necessary to reduce the total quantity of sugar in a
formula. Sugar substitutes are chemicals that have a sweet taste, usually much sweeter than
sugar, but no or little nutritional value. Aspartame and saccharin are intensely sweet chemi-
cals often used as beverage sweeteners, but they have little use in baking because they don’t
perform any of the functions of sugar listed above, other than providing sweetness. Also,
aspartame is destroyed by heat, so it is of no use in baked goods. Furthermore, these sweeten-
ers leave aftertastes that are unpleasant to many people, and there are also questions about
their safety.
694 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

Sucralose is the most useful sugar substitute in baked goods. It is sold under the brand
name Splenda. Pure sucralose is 600 times sweeter than sugar. For baking, it is mixed with a bulk-
ing agent called maltodextrin to give it the same sweetening power and texture as an equal vol-
ume of sugar. This product is called granular sucralose. In pies, cookies, quick breads, dessert
sauces, and custards, substitute an equal volume of granular sucralose for the sugar in the for-
mula. (Granular sucralose has 96 calories per cup/240 mL, primarily from the bulking agents,
while granulated sugar has 770 calories for the same volume.)
Granular sucralose, however, does not have good creaming abilities, it does not contribute
to browning, it doesn’t contribute to texture, and it does not improve keeping quality as sugar
does. When these functions are important, the usual technique is to substitute granular sucralose
for half of the sugar in the formula, thus reducing the number of calories from sugar by half.
A so-called baker’s blend, consisting of half granular sucralose mixed with half sugar, is available,
Granular sucralose. but it is more cost-effective to make the blend yourself.
Please note that when you are substituting granular sucralose for sugar, you must substitute
an equal volume, not an equal weight, because the granular sucralose is much lighter than sugar.
One cup (240 mL) granular sucralose weighs about 25 grams, slightly less than 1 ounce.
When baking with sucralose, monitor the products carefully for doneness. You can’t rely on
the usual amount of crust browning as a doneness indicator because the product won’t brown
as well.
Isomalt is another sugar substitute, discussed in Chapter 25 in connection with decorative
sugar work (p. 676). It is white and granular in appearance and can be substituted for an equal
weight of regular sugar. Isomalt has only half the calories of sugar, but it also has only half the
sweetness, so it is not a suitable substitute in all formulas. Also, it is not easily digested and can
cause intestinal discomfort and bloating when eaten by some people.

Gluten
Perhaps the biggest challenge for a baker is making baked goods without gluten. Gluten is a com-
ponent of wheat flour and is a major structural component of most baked goods.
Wheat flour supplies the bulk of most baked goods. This bulk-forming function can be dupli-
cated simply by substituting other flours and starches for wheat flour. The structure-building
functions of gluten proteins, however, are more difficult to duplicate (see pages 95–98 to review
gluten formation and functions). Gluten-free baked goods must contain other ingredients that
help build structure, or the item will be excessively crumbly, will not hold together, or will not rise.
For some items, such as certain quick breads, egg protein can provide the necessary structure.
Vegetable gums, including pectin, are also used to provide necessary structure. Pectin is a
component of fruit jellies, preserves, and purées. Adding these to gluten-free quick breads and
other batters may improve the structure and texture. Powdered vegetable gums (see p. 82) can be
used for the same purpose without adding the sweetness and flavor of fruit products. Xanthan
gum is perhaps the most useful gum in gluten-free baking.
Some starches, such as cornstarch, can also partly compensate for an absence of gluten.
Xanthan gum. Gelatinized cornstarch, for example, forms a firm gel that can improve the structure of some
baked goods.
The following flours and starches can be used to make gluten-free baked goods. Usually,
a mixture of several performs better than any single one. Keep in mind that each of these absorbs
a different quantity of water, which means you will have to do some experimenting and adjusting
of liquids when making substitutions in formulas.

Amaranth flour*
Arrowroot
Buckwheat flour
Chickpea (garbanzo) flour
Fava bean flour
Garfava flour (blend of garbanzo and fava flours)
Cornmeal
Corn flour (like cornmeal but finer in texture)
 MODIFYING FORMULAS FOR SPECIAL NEEDS 695

Cornstarch
Millet flour*
Nut flours (not suitable, obviously, when nut allergies are a concern)
Potato starch
Quinoa flour*
Rice flour
Sorghum flour
Soy flour
Tapioca flour and starch
*These items are sometimes contaminated with wheat during processing and shipping, so caution
is necessary.

Of these ingredients, rice flour, potato starch, tapioca starch, and cornstarch are especially
useful because they have relatively little flavor of their own and thus most closely approximate
white wheat flour.
Commercial gluten-free mixes also are available for various purposes. For example, one
commercial pizza dough mix contains rice flour, potato starch, cornstarch, crystallized honey,
guar gum, and salt.
The grains and other ingredients listed next contain gluten proteins and so are not suitable
for gluten-free diets:

Barley
Kamut
Malt (made from barley)
Oats
Puffed rice cereal (may be processed in a facility that also processes wheat)
Rye
Semolina
Spelt (farro)
Triticale
Wheat

Gluten-free items, even with structure-building ingredients added, always have a markedly
different texture from similar items made with wheat flour. The strength and elasticity of gluten
can’t be duplicated by other ingredients. In general, gluten-free baked goods have a more crum-
bly or grainy texture.

Dairy
Dairy ingredients in baking formulas are modified to achieve either of two goals: to reduce the fat
and calories from full-fat dairy products, or to make the product lactose- and allergen-free.
In many formulas, full-fat milk can be replaced with low-fat or nonfat milk without signifi-
cantly changing the characteristics of the finished product. If, however, the fat from the milk is an
important structural component of the baked item, you may have to compensate by making
some of the adjustments discussed in the section on fat. Low-fat and fat-free sour cream can
be substituted for regular sour cream in some formulas, and fat-free yogurt often works in place
of sour cream, as does whole-milk yogurt.
Lactose intolerance and milk allergies require a different approach, usually the complete
elimination of all dairy ingredients. Recall that lactose, which some people can’t digest, is a form
of sugar present in milk. Milk allergies, on the other hand, involve the proteins in milk products.
Many lactose-free dairy products, including fluid milk, are available and can be consumed by
people who are lactose intolerant. Lactose-free, however, is not the same as dairy-free. People
with milk allergies cannot consume lactose-free milk.
Many types of milk substitutes are available. These can replace milk in most formulas to
make the product suitable for anyone with a milk allergy or lactose intolerance. Soy milk is
696 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

perhaps the most familiar, although this of course is not suitable for people with soy allergies.
Other commercially available milk substitutes are made from rice, almonds, quinoa, potatoes,
sesame seeds, and coconut. (Coconut milk, unlike the other products, is high in fat—17% or
more.) Some of these are available in powdered as well as liquid form.
Dairy-free margarines can be substituted for butter in almost any formula. Read the label
carefully, however, as many margarines contain milk protein. Margarines labeled parve or pareve
are dairy-free.

Eggs
Egg yolks contain fat and cholesterol, while egg whites are fat-free. If the goal is to reduce fat and
cholesterol, use egg whites in place of an equal weight of whole eggs in doughs and batters when
the egg is used as a binder.
When egg foams are used for leavening, egg-white foams can often be substituted for whole-
egg foams. Of course, when the eggs are also a main structural component of a baked item, using
egg-white foams in place of whole eggs causes too great a change in the product. For example, if
you substitute egg whites in a genoise sponge cake formula, the product will no longer be a
genoise but something more like an angel food cake.
For egg allergies, substituting egg whites is not acceptable. All egg products must be elimi-
nated. Commercial baking egg substitutes (described on p. 690) containing starches and gums
are designed to be used in place of eggs in doughs and batter.
Other starches, gums, and proteins can substitute for eggs to replace their binding power.
Flaxseed meal is rich in gums and soluble fiber and is a useful egg replacement. To use, mix
1 tablespoon (15 mL) flaxseed meal with each 4 ounces (120 g) flour in the formula. Tapioca flour
and arrowroot can be used in the same way. Alternatively, try substituting an equal weight of
puréed tofu or puréed banana for the eggs in batter formulas. (Tofu, a soy product, can’t be used
for people with soy allergies.)

Sample Formulas
As writers, publishers, dieticians, and chefs have become aware of dietary issues related to bak-
ing and desserts, many books have become available that contain collections of recipes special-
ized for all sorts of diets, from low-fat and sugar-free to gluten-free, lactose-free, and other
allergen-free diets. A few of these books are listed in the Bibliography (p. 748). More recipes can
be found online and at any bookstore.
The purpose of this chapter is to explain the dietary reasons for modifying baking formulas
and to outline the techniques you can use to adapt formulas to meet these dietary needs. It is not
intended to be a comprehensive collection of dietary recipes. Nevertheless, it is useful to examine
a few formulas that have been developed by applying the principles discussed in the first part of
this chapter. Included are examples of gluten-free formulas, low-fat versions of high-fat baked
goods, sugar-free formulas, and lactose-free formulas.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What are the four categories of baking ingredients based on their structural functions?
What are the most important ingredients in each category?
❚ What techniques can be used to reduce fat in a formula?
❚ What techniques can be used to reduce sugar in a formula?
❚ What techniques can be used to eliminate gluten from a formula?
❚ What techniques can be used to eliminate dairy and eggs from formulas?
 FORMULAS 697

LOW-FAT APPLE HONEY MUFFINS

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Whole wheat flour 12 oz 340 g 75
Oat flour 4 oz 110 g 25 Muffin method (p. 213):

Baking powder 1 oz 30 g 6 1. Sift together the flours, baking powder, and

cardamom.
Cinnamon 0.1 oz (11⁄2 tsp) 3g 0.6
2. Mix together the applesauce, honey, and
Cardamom 0.03 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 1 g (2 mL) 0.2
egg whites.

Applesauce, 1 lb 4 oz 560 g 125 3. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry

unsweetened ingredients and mix just until combined.

Honey 10 oz 280 g 62.5 4. Mix in the raisins.

Egg whites, beaten 4 oz 110 g 25 PANNING

Use paper muffin cups to line muffin pans, or
Raisins 6 oz 170 g 38
spray the pan with a nonstick spray. Fill tins
Total weight: 3 lb 9 oz 1604 g 357 % one-half to two-thirds full. Exact weight
depends on pan size. Average sizes are 2 oz
(60 g) for small muffins, 4 oz (110 g) for
medium muffins, and 5–6 oz (140–170 g) for
large muffins.

BAKING
375°F (190°C) for approximately 20 minutes,
depending on size
698 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

LOW-FAT MULTIGRAIN BROWN BREAD

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Whole wheat flour 7 oz 200 g 44
Cornmeal 4 oz 110 g 25 Muffin method (p. 213):

Rye flour 3 oz 85 g 19 1. Sift together the flours, baking soda, and

spices.
Oat flour 2 oz 55 g 12
2. Mix together the buttermilk, molasses,
Baking soda 0.7 oz (31⁄2 tsp) 18 g 4
prune purée, and egg whites.
Ginger 0.14 oz (2 tsp) 4 g (10 mL) 0.9
3. Stir the liquids into the dry ingredients
Nutmeg 0.07 oz (1 tsp) 2 g (5 mL) 0.45 just until combined.
Cinnamon 0.06 oz (1 tsp) 1.8 g (5 mL) 0.4
PANNING

Low-fat buttermilk 1 lb 450 g 100 Spray the insides of 81⁄2 × 41⁄2 in. (22 × 11 cm)
Molasses 6 oz 170 g 38 loaf pans with nonstick spray. Scale 1 lb 8 oz
(700 g) batter per pan.
Prune purée 8 oz 225 g 50
(see Note) BAKING
Egg whites, lightly 3 oz 85 g 19 375°F (190°C), about 50 minutes
beaten

Total weight: 3 lb 1 oz 1405 g 313 %

NOTE: If prune purée is not available, soak pitted prunes in just enough warm water to
cover, then purée the prunes and water in a food processor.
 FORMULAS 699

LOW-FAT CHOCOLATE PIE

Yield: one 9-in. (23-cm) pie

Ingredient U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Combine the first quantities of milk and
Skim milk 1 pt 500 mL
sugar in a heavy saucepan. Heat to
Sugar 2 oz 60 g dissolve the sugar, and bring the liquid
just to a boil.
Cornstarch 2 oz 60 g
2. Sift the cornstarch, sugar, and cocoa
Sugar 2.5 oz 75 g powder into a bowl. Gradually stir in the
Cocoa powder 1 oz 30 g second quantity of (cold) milk, making a
Skim milk 8 fl oz 250 mL smooth, lump-free mixture.
Vanilla extract 0.25 fl oz (1 ⁄2 tsp)
1
7 mL 3. Gradually stir in the hot milk from step 1.
4. Return the mixture to the saucepan and
9-in. (23-cm) low-fat graham 1 1 set over moderate heat. Bring to a boil,
cracker pie shell (below) stirring constantly.
5. When the mixture comes to a boil, remove
VA R I AT I O N it from the heat and set the pan in an
ice-water bath. Stir constantly to cool the
LOW-FAT CHOCOLATE PUDDING
mixture to lukewarm.
Reduce the cornstarch to 1.5 oz (45 g). Prepare as in basic recipe, omitting pie
6. Stir in the vanilla.
shell.
7. Pour the mixture into the prepared pie
shell.
8. Chill until cold and set.

LOW-FAT GRAHAM CRACKER PIE SHELL

Yield: one 9-in. (23-cm) pie shell

Ingredient U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. In a food processor or a mixer with the paddle attachment,
Graham cracker crumbs 4.5 oz 125 g
mix together the crumbs and jam until evenly blended and
Raspberry jam 2 oz 55 g crumbly.
2. Spray the inside of a 9-in. (23-cm) pie tin with nonstick spray.
3. Put the crumbs in the pie tin. Pack them evenly against the
bottom and sides of the tin. The mixture is sticky, so you may
want to use a disposable glove. Alternatively, use the back of
a kitchen spoon and dip it in sugar as needed to keep the
crumbs from sticking to it.
4. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 10 minutes.
5. Cool thoroughly before filling.
700 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

NO-SUGAR-ADDED LEMON COOKIES

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Butter, soft 8 oz 225 g 50
Creaming method (p. 478):
Sucralose, granular 1.3 oz (12 fl oz) 36 g 8
1. Combine the butter, sucralose, salt, and
Salt 0.12 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 3.5 g 0.8
zest in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the
Grated lemon zest 0.5 oz 14 g 3 paddle attachment. Cream until light,
scraping down the bowl as necessary to
Eggs 3 oz 85 g 19 make sure all ingredients are evenly
Vanilla 0.33 oz (2 tsp) 10 g 2.4 blended. (Note: The mixture will not cream
as well as butter and sugar.)
Pastry flour 1 lb 450 g 100 2. Add the eggs a little at a time; mix until
Baking powder 0.4 oz (2 ⁄2 tsp)
1
11 g 2.5 each addition is completely absorbed
before adding more.
Total weight: 1 lb 13 oz 834 g 185 %
3. Blend in the vanilla.
4. Sift together the flour and baking powder.
Add to the mixing bowl and mix at low
VA R I AT I O N
speed until evenly blended and smooth.
NO-SUGAR-ADDED CINNAMON COOKIES
MAKEUP
Omit the lemon zest. Add 1% (0.16 oz/4.5 g; about 1 tsp/5 mL) cinnamon.
Icebox method:
1. Divide the dough into approximately 8-oz
(230-g) parts.
2. Roll each into a cylinder 1 in (2.5 cm) thick.
Wrap each tightly in plastic film and
refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
3. Slice 1⁄4 in. (6 mm) thick. Bake on
parchment-lined sheet pans.

BAKING
350°F (160°C), about 10 minutes
 FORMULAS 701

REDUCED-SUGAR APPLE SPICE CAKE

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Pastry flour 1 lb 500 g 100
Muffin method:
Sucralose, granular 1.25 oz 40 g 8
1. Sift together the dry ingredients.
Baking soda 0.5 oz 15 g 3
2. Mix together the applesauce, molasses,
Baking powder 0.16 oz (1 tsp) 5 g 1
oil, and eggs until well blended.
Salt 0.16 oz (3⁄4 tsp) 5 g 1
3. Add the dry ingredients to the liquids and
Cinnamon 0.08 oz (1 tsp) 2.5 g 0.5 mix just until smooth.
Ginger 0.05 oz (3⁄4 tsp) 1.5 g 0.3
SCALING AND BAKING
Ground cloves 0.05 oz (3⁄4 tsp) 1.5 g 0.3
Refer to the weights for high-fat cakes in the
Nutmeg 0.03 oz (3⁄8 tsp) 1 g 0.2
table on page 388. When a weight range is
given, use the lower end of the range. Use the
Applesauce, unsweetened 1 lb 4 oz 625 g 125
temperatures indicated in the table.
Molasses 11.5 oz 360 g 72
Vegetable oil 3 oz 95 g 19
Eggs, beaten (or liquid egg 6 oz 190 g 38
substitute)

Total weight: 3 lb 10 oz 1841 g 368 %

NOTE: This formula is called “reduced-sugar” rather than “no-sugar-added” because of the
sugar content of the molasses. No other sugar is added.

GLUTEN-FREE CHOCOLATE CAKE

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE

Butter 8 oz 240 g 80 MIXING

Sugar 14 oz 420 g 140 Creaming method (p. 377)

Bittersweet chocolate, 4 oz 120 g 40 SCALING AND BAKING
melted
See the table on page 388. Butter and flour
the pans heavily (using flour from a gluten-
Eggs 6.7 oz 200 g 67
free grain, such as rice), or line with
parchment. The cake is very tender, even
Rice flour 6.5 oz 195 g 65
when cooled, and may break if it doesn’t
Potato starch 2.5 oz 75 g 25 release easily from the pan. Handle cake
Tapioca flour 1 oz 30 g 10 layers carefully when assembling and icing.
Xanthan gum 0.16 oz (1 ⁄4 tsp)1
4.8 g 1.6
Baking soda 0.25 oz (11⁄4 tsp) 7.8 g 2.5
Baking powder 0.18 oz (1 tsp) 5.4 g 1.8
Salt 0.18 oz ( ⁄2 tsp)
1
5.4 g 1.8
Buttermilk 8 oz 240 g 80
Water 4 oz 120 g 40
Vanilla 0.17 oz (1 tsp) 5 g 1.7

Total weight 3 lb 7 oz 0 556 %

702 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

GLUTEN-FREE YEAST BREAD

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Rice flour 1 lb 500 g 67
Potato starch 3 oz 95 g 12.5 1. Sift all the dry ingredients (a) into the bowl
of a mixer fitted with the paddle
Cornstarch 2 oz 60 g 8
attachment. Mix on low speed until the
Tapioca flour 3 oz 95 g 12.5 ingredients are uniformly blended.
Sugar 1 oz 30 g 4 2. With the machine running on low speed,
Nonfat milk solids (or 2.5 oz 75 g 10 slowly add the melted butter (b), water (c),
powdered milk replacer) and vinegar. Blend the ingredients
Xanthan gum 0.5 oz (5 tsp) 15 g 2 together.

Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 2 3. Add the egg whites. Turn the machine to

high speed and mix for 3 minutes. Note
Instant yeast 0.5 oz 15 g 2
that the mixture forms a batter, not a
dough (d).
Butter or margarine, melted 2 oz 60 g 8
Water, warm 1 lb 12 oz 875 g 117 PANNING, PROOFING, AND BAKING

Distilled white vinegar 0.33 oz (2 tsp) 10 g 1.4 Note that this batter does not have a
Egg whites, lightly beaten 6 oz 190 g 25 fermentation period like regular yeast
doughs.
Total weight: 4 lb 1 oz 2035 g 271 % 1. Grease loaf pans and dust with rice flour.
2. Fill pans half full of the batter.
3. Proof until double in bulk.
4. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for about 50
minutes, depending on the size of the
loaves.

A B

C D
 FORMULAS 703

GLUTEN-FREE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Butter or margarine 5 oz 150 g 50
Creaming method:
Granulated sugar 4 oz 120 g 40
1. Cream together the butter, sugars, and salt
Brown sugar 4 oz 120 g 40
until light.
Salt 0.12 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 4 g 1.25
2. Add the eggs a little at a time, waiting
before each addition is absorbed before
Eggs 3 oz 90 g 30
adding the next.
Vanilla extract 0.16 oz (1 tsp) 5 g 1.6
3. Add the vanilla.
Cornstarch 3.5 oz 105 g 35 4. Sift or mix together the dry ingredients
and blend them into the creamed mixture.
Tapioca flour 3.5 oz 105 g 35
5. Stir in the chocolate chips.
Chickpea (garbanzo) flour 2 oz 60 g 20
Rice flour 1 oz 30 g 10 MAKEUP
Baking soda 0.12 oz ( ⁄4 tsp)
3
4 g 1.25 Drop method: Drop 3⁄4 oz (22 g) portions onto
Xanthan gum 0.05 oz (1⁄2 tsp) 1.5 g 0.5 parchment-lined sheet pans.

BAKING
Chocolate chips 7 oz 210 g 70
Bake at 350°F (175°C), about 12 minutes
Total weight: 2 lb 1 oz 1004 g 334 %

NOTE: This formula is adapted from the formula on p. 485.

704 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

GLUTEN-FREE BROWNIES
Ingredient U.S. Metric % PROCEDURE
MIXING
Unsweetened chocolate 12 oz 338 g 75
Butter 1 lb 8 oz 675 g 150 1. Melt the chocolate and butter together in
a double boiler. Let the mixture cool to
Eggs 1 lb 3 oz 525 g 117 room temperature.

Sugar 2 lb 5 oz 1050 g 233 2. Mix the eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla
together until well blended, but do not
Salt 0.25 oz 7g 1.5
whip to a foam.
Vanilla extract 1 oz 30 g 6
3. Blend in the chocolate mixture.

Rice flour 10 oz 284 g 63 4. Sift together the dry ingredients. Fold

them into the chocolate mixture.
Potato starch 4 oz 112 g 25
5. Fold in the nuts, if desired. Leave them
Tapioca flour 2 oz 54 g 12
out, of course, if nut allergies are a
Xanthan gum 0.25 oz 7g 1.5 concern.

Walnuts or pecans, chopped 12 oz 338 g 75 PANNING

(optional) Grease sheet pans or other baking pans and
dust them with rice flour. Pour the batter into
Total weight 7 lb 9 oz 3420 g 759 %
the pans. One recipe is enough for one
full-size sheet pan, two half-sheet pans, four
9 × 13-in. (23 × 33 cm) pans, or six 9-in.
(23-cm) or 8-in. (20-cm) square pans.

BAKING
325°F (165°C) for 45–50 minutes.
 FORMULAS 705

LACTOSE-FREE CRÈME CARAMEL

Yield: 12 portions, 5 oz (150 g) each

Ingredient U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Cook the first quantity of sugar with the
Sugar 12 oz 375 g
water until it caramelizes. (See the section
Water 2 fl oz 60 mL on sugar cooking, p. 252.)
2. Line the bottoms of twelve 6-oz (180-mL)
Eggs 1 lb 500 g
custard ramekins with the hot caramel.
Sugar 8 oz 250 g (Be sure the cups are clean and dry before
Salt 1
⁄2 tsp 2.5 g adding the caramel.) Let cool.
Vanilla extract 1 tbsp 15 mL 3. Combine the eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla
in a mixing bowl. Mix thoroughly but do
Soy milk (see Note) 21⁄2 pt 1250 mL not whip.
4. Scald the soy milk in a double boiler or in a
NOTE: For soy allergies, use another of the milk substitutes listed on pages 695–696 in
place of the soy milk. saucepan over low heat.
5. Gradually pour the milk into the egg
mixture, stirring constantly.
6. Skim off all foam from the surface of the
liquid.
7. Arrange the caramel-lined custard
ramekins in a shallow baking pan.
8. Carefully pour the custard mixture into the
ramekins.
9. Set the baking pan on the oven shelf. Pour
enough hot water into the pan around the
cups to reach about as high as the level of
the custard mixture.
10. Bake at 325°F (165°C) until set, about 45
minutes.
11. Carefully remove the custard from the
oven and cool. Cover and refrigerate at
least 12 hours to allow the caramel time to
partly dissolve and form a sauce.
12. Before serving, carefully unmold onto a
serving dish.
706 C H A P T E R 26 BAKING FOR SPECIAL DIETS

LACTOSE-FREE MANGO COCONUT ICE CREAM

Yield: about 3 qt (3 L), depending on overrun

Ingredient U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and first
Egg yolks 4 oz (6 yolks) 125 g (6 yolks)
quantity of coconut milk in a bowl. Whip
Sugar 12 oz 375 g until smooth and evenly mixed.
Coconut milk 8 fl oz 250 mL 2. Scald the remaining coconut milk and
gradually beat it into the egg mixture.
Coconut milk 2 pt 8 fl oz 1250 mL
3. Heat in a hot-water bath or a double
boiler, stirring constantly, until the mixture
Mango purée 1 lb 8 oz 750 g
thickens enough to coat the back of a
Lime juice 3 fl oz 90 mL spoon. Immediately remove from the heat
Sugar 3 oz 90 g and set in an ice-water bath to stop the
cooking. (See p. 260 for guidelines on
preparing crème anglaise.)
4. Chill the mixture thoroughly. Refrigerate
overnight.
5. Mix the mango purée, lime juice, and sugar
until evenly blended. Chill for several
hours or overnight.
6. Combine the custard mixture and the
mango purée. Freeze in an ice cream
freezer.
 QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 707

TERMS FOR REVIEW

empty calorie vitamin lipid anaphylaxis
nutrient density mineral cholesterol food intolerance
nutrient calorie vegan celiac disease
fiber saturated fat lacto-vegetarian lactose
carbohydrate polyunsaturated fat ovo-vegetarian lecithin

fat monounsaturated fat lacto-ovo-vegetarian sucralose

protein trans fat allergen

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW

 1. Describe five ways to increase the vitamin, mineral, and fiber  4. Which of the following ingredients can be used to make
content of yeast breads. cookies for people with celiac disease: barley flour, rye flour,
 2. True or false: Replacing the sugar in a muffin formula with whole wheat flour, spelt flour, oat flour?
honey makes the muffins more nutritious. Explain your  5. Name and describe the three basic ways to modify an
answer. ingredient or ingredient quantity in a formula to make the
 3. A guest at a catered banquet tells the waiter she is allergic to formula suitable for special dietary needs.
nuts and can’t eat the cake that is being served for dessert,  6. Explain why it is important to understand the function of an
a white cake with chocolate icing decorated with walnut ingredient in a baking formula when you want to eliminate
halves. The waiter removes the nuts from the cake and serves that ingredient for customers who are allergic to it.
it to the customer. Is this the proper response? Explain your  7. Why is it especially important to avoid overmixing if you
answer. reduce the butter content of a muffin formula?