NANO COATING USING HOT CAUSTIC METHOD

By

Ronald Davenport, united States of America

The method I present to you has many advantages, for example you can NanoCoat your
copper parts in 24 hours, NanoCoating copper plates works extremely well, reduction in
Lye useage and cost, and the main advantage is that it works every time. The trick is to
apply heat at the right time to the parts in a large Stainless Steel Stock Pot over a 24 hour
period. The problem is that if you use the plastic tubs you can not get the amount of heat
necessary to properly coat the parts.

OVERALL MATERIAL NEEDED

1. A Large Stainless Steel Stock Pot, 12 quart capacity with Lid. DO NOT USE
ALUMINUM!

2. A single propane burner and propane fuel, this works best because you can control the
heat better.

3. One Pound of 100% Lye or Caustic Soda, One Pound equals 454 grams.

4. The water I use is highly filtered from a water dispensing machine that are inside
grocery stores.

5. One Lemon and some sea salt

6. One quart of Acetone

7. Safety material such as safety glasses, nitrile gloves, long sleeve shirt.

MATERIAL TO BUILD THE STEAMER RACK

1. 10 feet of heavy gage single strand copper wire, around .215 inches or 5.5mm in
diameter. The wire can be a bit smaller or a bit larger. This type of wire is used as a
grounding conductor in buildings.

2. 10 feet of single strand 10 gage copper wire. Remove the insulation if on wire.

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TOOLS NEEDED

1. A Propane torch with a Pencil Tip, solder and flux

2. Hack Saw to cut heavy copper wire or special heavy duty wire cutters

3. Hand tools such as needle nose pliers, vice grips, normal wire cutters, knife

CONSTRUCTION OF STEAMER RACK

1. Take the large wire and wrap it around the outside of the pot. Overlap the end by about
½ inch and cut the excess off.

2. Take the circle and place inside the pot at the top. Cut the excess off where the wire
overlaps. Make sure the circle is formed inside and pressed against the wall of the pot.
The object of the next step is to have around 1/8 inch between the wall and the outer
edge of the circle. So what you have to do is to cut off a little bit at a time from one end
until the desired clearance is achieved.

3. Measure from the bottom of the pot to the top edge, now cut four pieces from the large
wire using that length. From one end mark 1 inch then bend at a 90. This is very
difficult to do freehand, if you have a vise it would be easier to make the bends.

4. Beginning at the point where the ends meet, solder the first leg to the circle, make sure
that the gap is closed and the short bend is in the middle of the gap. Now solder the rest
of the legs onto the circle at 90 degrees apart. Place into the pot and make sure that the

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 rack fits and there is around 1 inch from top edge of pot to top of circle. The test is to
place lid onto the pot and be sure the lid rests on the edge of pot. If there is interference,
remove some material from the bottom of each leg.

5. Now make the cross bars. From the picture you can see how to bend them, make five
cross bars and hook them around the circle. This is why you need the clearance between
the wall of the pot and the circle.

PREPARATION OF COPPER PLATES BEFORE NANO COATING

1. First determine how you are going to hang the plates inside your GANS tubs. So drill
the holes or cut your plate to have a hanger built in. If your plates have holes then you
will have to make “S” hooks to hang them inside the pot. Make as many “S” hooks as
needed to hang your plates.

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2. Wipe your plates with Acetone to remove any and all grease and oils. Place the “S”
hooks on your plates, or use a lemon and salt.

3. If you do not have access to Acetone then a lemon and salt will work just as well. Cut
the lemon in half, rub the cut face over the copper plate, sprinkle salt over the plate, now
vigorously rub the lemon over the copper. Let sit for a minute, then rinse in water. The
reason for the cleaning is to remove any and all grease and oil from the plates. The plate
on the left has not been cleaned, see how the water beads up on the surface? This is
caused by oil or grease on the surface. The plate on the right has been cleaned using the
lemon-salt on the lower half, see the difference.

4. Put into the bottom of the pot enough water to cover all the parts that you will be Nano
Coating. For plates, at lease 1 inch deep. Sprinkle 4 ounces of Lye into the water while
stirring with a wood stick. Make sure all the Lye is dissolved in the water. There will
not be a violent reaction doing it this way. Be sure to wear all appropriate safety
equipment, eye protection and plastic gloves and clothing.

THE NANO COATING PROCESS FOR THE PLATES

1. Place your clean plates into the bottom of the pot and put the lid on. Place pot onto your
heat source and bring the water to a boil. Once the water starts to boil, reduce the heat
and keep it at a low boil for 2 hours. After 2 hours turn off the heat.

2. Once the parts are cool enough to handle, remove them from the solution and hang them
on the rack cross bars. Place the rack into the pot and put lid on. When handling the wet
parts, be sure to place a towel under the area where you are working to catch the liquid
Lye.

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3. Turn on the heat and bring to solution to a boil then turn off the heat. Let cool and when
the outside of pot is cool to the touch then boil the solution again then turn off the heat
and let cool. Do this for 24 hours. At night before going to bed bring the solution to a
boil then turn off the heat and let stand overnight.

4. At around the 24 hour mark and when the solution is cool pour the solution into a plastic
container and save. This can be used for the next batch. Rinse the parts by running water
over them while still hanging from the rack. Pour out the water but leave a little in the
bottom.

5. Place the pot with the lid on over the heat source and turn on the heat. This is the drying
process. With the small amount of water in the bottom, be sure to stand there to turn off
the heat when you hear it sizzle. Turn off the heat and crack the lid, now let the pot cool
and parts dry. When pot is cool, remove the lid and take out the rack and parts.

6. The parts should be dry with no caustic white powder anywhere on the parts.

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NANO COATING FOR THE OTHER SMALL PARTS

1. You will use the same process as explained above except how to clean them.

2. In a glass baking dish place your small parts on the bottom, pour the Acetone over
the parts. Now agitate the parts by moving the glass dish back and forth. Pour the
Acetone back into its’ container using a funnel. Let the parts sit on paper towels until
the Acetone has evaporated.

3. Go to step 3 in section called “PREPARATION OF COPPER PLATES BEFORE

NANO COATING” and make the solution or use a saved solution from a prior coating
process. Then do all the rest of the steps in order.

4. Before drying, be sure to soak any small coils in water to remove the Lye caught in the
coils.

NANO COATING FOR THE MAGRAV COILS

1. Make the 3 coil sets per the KF blueprint. Use the new coil count of 144 and 81

2. Heat up all of the leads coming out of the coils using a propane torch right up to the coil.
Do not overheat! Practice on another piece of wire so you know how to do it. You are
doing this to soften the wires to make it easier to twist the wires together.

3. Assemble the coils into the sets. When you twist the wire, be sure to twist them in a
CCW direction. When you cut off the excess wire, be sure to allow enough wire to form
a loop back onto itself. You must separate the (-) and (+) wires so that you can get ready
access to them during the steaming phase.

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4. In a glass baking dish place your coils on the bottom, do one at a time if you have to.
Pour the Acetone over the coils, then flip them over, be sure to have plenty of
ventilation. Now agitate the coils by moving the glass dish back and forth. Pour the
Acetone back into its’ container using a funnel. Let the coils sit on paper towels until
the Acetone has drained and evaporated from the coil sets.

5. Warning this step is experimental! For some reason KF decided to Flame coat the coils.
I believe it was for the alignment of the molecules in the wire and for the Nano coating.
This is my opinion only, so if you want, pretreat the coils using the flame method but do
not heat them into changing color. Go in the right direction and do both sides of each
coil as shown in the KF blueprint on how to make the coils. Let cool.

6. Put into the bottom of the pot enough water to cover all the parts that you will be Nano
Coating. For coils, at lease 2 inches deep. Sprinkle 4 ounces of Lye into the water while
stirring with a wood stick. Make sure all the Lye is dissolved in the water. There will
not be a violent reaction doing it this way. Be sure to wear all appropriate safety
equipment, eye protection and plastic gloves and clothing.

7. Place the clean coils in the bottom of the pot, the coils must be covered in the solution,
if not completely covered add more water. Place lid on the pot and turn on the heat,
bring solution to a boil. Reduce heat to maintain a low boil for 2 hours then turn heat
off. Let pot and parts cool down.

8. Once the parts are cool enough to handle, remove them from the solution and hang all
three sets on the rack cross bars, use “S” hooks or small pieces of wire. There should be
1 inch of solution at the bottom before placing the rack into the pot. Drain the solution
and save until there is 1 inch in the bottom of the pot. When handling the wet parts, be
sure to place a towel under the area where you are working to catch the liquid Lye and
wear all of your safety equipment.

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9. Please refer to the wiring diagram for the coil set, notice that there are 2 long wires
coming out of the coil set after the other wires have been wrapped together. One wire is
marked with a (+) and the other is marked with a (-). Please notice where the wires
originate from. I have tried to show that in these photos.

10. Place the rack into the pot. Be sure that there is no solution touching the bottom of the
coils and they should be at least 1 inch above the solution. and all coils and wires are
below the cross bars. And be sure that the 2 long wires are not touching each other or
the other coils.

11. Place the pot on the heat source and put lid on the pot. Turn on the heat and let the
solution boil, remove the heat and let cool down. When cool to the touch turn the heat
back on to a boil, then off again and wait for it to cool. Repeat this heating and cooling
one more time.

12. On the third steam bath once the pot has cooled down, remove the lid. Connect a
voltmeter placed in the 200 mv range with the red lead to the positive lead of coil and

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 the black lead to the negative lead of the coil. Watch the meter, when it goes to
zero millivolts then disconnect the meter and put lid back on the pot and turn on the
heat, bring solution to a boil then turn off heat and let cool down. Connect the meter
again as described in this paragraph. Repeat this until 24 hours have passed for the
total process.

13. After the final steam bath let the pot cool down. Pour out the solution and place in a
plastic container using a funnel, save for future use. Fill the pot up with water. Pick the
rack up and down so that water rinses the inner coils, do this for a minute. Pour out the
water into a drain but leave a little in the bottom, maybe 1/8 inch. Put lid back on the
pot but this time cocked or propped open a little to let the steam out, turn on the heat
and bring water to a boil. Turn down the heat and let simmer until the water in the
bottom is gone. Turn off the heat and let pot cool. Pull out the rack and take the parts
off the cross bars. Place parts in a sealed plastic bag or a plastic container with a lid
that seals.

TIPS AND TRICKS

1. Always wear your safety equipment.

2. Always provide proper ventilation.

3. Always use highly filtered water

4. If you see areas of copper on the parts, the problem is that the solution did not drain
away from the part and prevented the part from nano coating.

5. Do not use mesh screen in the bottom of the pot, make the parts rack and be done with
your nano coating problems.

6. Always use copper wire for the “S” hooks and other hanging wires.

“S”
This is what a “S” hook looks like

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