Finishing & Blueing

In the preceding volume of this series, I described the methods and materials used in the hot "nitrate" process of bluing (or "blacking") parts of a firearm. In this volume, I will present sufficient information to enable you to finish weapons with both the comparatively slow nitrate process, as well as a faster rust-type bluing (or "browning") procedure. Let me mention here that you must take every precaution possible to protect your eyes and skin from the more caustic bluing formulas that follow, particularly the "hot" solutions. When mixing any bluing formula, add water to it slowly by means of a long handled dipper so that any chemicals that spatter out then will not reach you. An even safer method is to place a funnel in the end of a five foot section of pipe and pour the water through it. Some chemicals listed here are extremely dangerous when handled carelessly. Note that considerably less equipment is necessary for the quick rust-type of finish than with the nitrate blue. In fact, for the faster method, one tank approximately five inches high, five inches wide, and long enough to accept the longest part to be blued is adequate. For the pistols described in this book, a tank length of 14 to 16 inches will suffice. It can be heated on a kitchen stove if no other heat source is available. But if you anticipate doing very much bluing, it is advantageous to make three tanks together with a rack to hold them, with individual burners for each. Construct the tanks from any material that can withstand the temperature needed to boil water. Trays from discarded room planters, poultry feeders, or even a section of rain gutter with endcaps brazed in place are fine. Another source for suitable tanks is old rocker arm or valve covers at the automotive salvage yard. Mark these tanks numbers one, two, and three. Tank number one is the degreasing tank. It will contain a strong lye or caustic soda solution, or a tri-sodium phosphate solution. Make the last solution by mixing one cup of tri-sodium phosphate with 2-1/2 gallons of water. Keep aluminum parts out of either of these solutions. They will pit or even disintegrate in these baths. Use household detergent for degreasing aluminum parts. The number two tank contains a neutralizing bath of either pure distilled water, or water with a little lime added. The third tank is used for boiling the parts in water, in accordance with the "fast method" process. Fill it to a depth of at least three inches with distilled water. Do not use ordinary tap water for this step, since it almost always contains impurities, which cause blemishes to develop on blued surfaces.

Before the components of a firearm can be blued, they must be highly polished. If you have Volume One of this series, follow the same polishing sequence it presents. This procedure is relatively simple. After filing all nick, dents and scratches from the surface of the part, use progressively finer grits of abrasive cloth to polish it with a crosswise "shoeshine" motion. Then use the same cloth to polish it with a lengthwise motion until the crosswise marks are polished out. Repeat with the next finer grit, eventually progressing to crocus cloth, until the steel has a shiny, chrome-like appearance. Finally, check the part under a strong light for blemishes or dull spots. These must be removed if a professional-looking finish is expected. Immediately prior to bluing, clean all parts completely, making certain they are free of oil or grease. Wear clean cotton gloves throughout the cleaning operation, since human skin secretes oil and sometimes acids. An imperceptible layer of these secretions, which may prevent the bluing solution from working properly, will result if you handle parts without gloves. Prepare to blue the barrel by making hardwood plugs that fit into each end of it. These plugs should be at least 3/4 inch in diameter, and long enough to serve as handles. The pre-manufactured dowel rod available at most lumber yards is ideal for this purpose. Using a wood lathe, turn a shoulder on one rod a few thousandths of an inch larger than the barrel's bore diameter. Make the plug for the muzzle end of the barrel five or six thousandths of an inch greater than the barrel's groove diameter. Grease it lightly and drive it into the bore, allowing approximately 1/2 inch to remain between the muzzle and the plug shoulder, insuring that the end of the muzzle will be acceptably blued also. Drive a similarlyfitted and greased plug into the chamber end of the barrel. Properly done, the two plugs will prevent any trace of the bluing solution from reaching the inside of the barrel. Most of the other parts are handled during bluing by wooden plugs fitted into holes present in the respective parts. Similarly, screws and bolts may be handled during bluing by drilling appropriate holes in wood strips, then screwing these screws and bolts into the holes. Small parts that have no holes or openings present another problem. Handle these by the free end of a stiff wire wrapped around an area of the part that does not require bluing. Before you start the actual bluing, bend three U-shaped brackets from heavy wire, such as coat hanger or welding rod. Position one of these in each tank, to prevent larger parts from contacting the bottom of the tank. I also recommend making a pair of hooks from about 3/16 inch diameter steel rod. Use the hooks to both place the parts in the tanks and remove them. Presently, it is possible to purchase commercial bluing solutions which will satisfactorily color and protect the metal if used according to directions. Herter's Belgian Blue, Stoeger's Yankee Blue, and Brownell's. Dicropan IM are three of the more popular home-bluing solutions on the market. Prices and container sizes vary, but all produce nearly identical results by following essentially the same application technique. Because this book is intended for a time when such commercial preparations may not be available, the following formulas are included so that you can mix your own bluing solutions. Fast Process 750 Gr. Corrosive Sublimate 1000 Gr. Potassium Chlorate

1200 Gr. Potassium Nitrate 300 Gr. Ferric Chloride 150 Gr. Cupric Chloride 300 Gr. Sodium Nitrate

Place the above six chemicals in a glass receptacle. Chances are you may have to get them already mixed at a drug store since potassium chlorate is an explosive under certain conditions, and will probably be difficult to obtain separately. Heat 1700 CC of distilled water to 130 degrees F. and pour it into the glass receptacle. Agitate the mixture until all the chemicals are completely dissolved and allow to cool. After about ten hours, add 175 CC sweet spirits of niter. Shake well and pour the solution into colored glass bottles; allow to stand twenty-four hours before using. Bottles should be labeled POISON. This solution is one of the best for the fast-method bluing. It only takes about an hour to complete, and results in a fine, extremely durable, blue finish if directions are carefully followed. After all the parts to be blued are well polished, wash them thoroughly, preferably with a nonflammable solvent. Place them in the first tank which contains at least three inches of water and a proper amount of the tri-sodium phosphate tone cup to 2% gallons of water). Bring this solution to a boil, then immerse the parts in it, and allow them to boil for fifteen minutes. Any traces of oil or grease will be removed by this step. They are next rinsed in tap water, and placed in tank number two containing lime water tone ounce to two gallons). Boil again. Following the completion of the first two steps, pour three or four inches of distilled water into tank number three. Again, if distilled water is not used in the last tank, the final blue finish will likely be streaked and discolored. Procure a heavy glass pint jar with a large mouth, and wrap a heavy wire around its top. Use this wire to fasten the jar in one corner of the third tank allowing it to rest on the tank's bottom. Pour enough of the bluing solution into the jar to fill it half-way. Make certain that no water gets into the solution. But before you boil the water and jar of bluing solution in tank number three, three things are needed: a swab, 00 to 000 steel wool or a fine carding brush, and a rack to hold the barrel by its two end plugs. Make the swab by tying a gauze bandage into a slit cut into the end of a dowel. The rack can be bent from heavy wire, or made by cutting appropriate notches into two wood blocks. Boil the water in the third tank. Place the parts to be blued in the boiling water, and let them remain for about five minutes. Remove one part, and use the swab to apply an even coat of bluing solution to it, using lengthwise strokes. Keep the swab in the bluing jar until it is used again. If bluing the barrel, place it in the rack before applying any solution. Once the heat from the part has completely dried the solution on it, return it to the boiling water for four to five minutes. Remove, and brush or card off the coating of rust which has formed with the steel wool or fine carding brush.

Work as rapidly as possible both in applying the solution and removing the rust, and keep in mind that the bluing works far more effectively on heated steel. If very much heat is lost while removing the rust, place the part back in the boiling water for a few minutes before applying another coat. The best way to handle the bluing of a small part involves coating its surface as soon as it is dry, then placing it back in the tank for a few minutes. Remove, and card the rust off. Put the part back in the boiling water, remove, and apply another coat of solution. Repeat the application process six or seven times. Some steels may require as many as ten applications of the blue. Generally, the blue-black color of the part will be as dark as it can get after the seventh coating. Remove the rust from the last coat, and rub it first with 0000 steel wool, then with clean cotton cloth. Boil the part one last time. Remove, and coat it with light oil while still warm. This oil terminates any further reaction between the solution and the steel. After a few minutes, remove the oil, and rub a mixture of beeswax and turpentine into the part's blued surface. Take out the wooden plugs from the barrel, wipe the bore clean, and apply a light coating of oil to it. Ten Day Rust Process 1900 cc distilled water 180 cc tincture of ferric chloride 180 cc sweet spirits of niter 30 cc nitric acid 800 gr corrosive sublimate 400 gr copper sulphate Mix in the order given and place in colored bottles. Label POISON. Let stand for at least 72 hours before using. This is a slow rust process which requires about ten days to produce a proper finish. When properly applied, it will outwear just about any other type of finish. Prepare the handgun's parts for bluing by polishing and degreasing, as previously described. Repeat the processes for tanks one and two, as outlined under "Fast Process". Boil distilled water in tank number three, along with the pint jar half-full of bluing solution. Place the parts to be blued in the boiling water for five minutes. Remove, and use a clean swab to coat the part with solution. Allow it to stand between eight and ten hours before carding off the rust with steel wool or a wire brush. Then boil it in tank for five minutes, to neutralize any remaining chemicals from the previous coat. Remove the part, and allow it to cool a bit. Swab on another coat of the solution.

Repeat this operation on each part twice a day for nine or ten days. Provided that you followed the directions completely and carefully, used distilled water, polished the parts meticulously, and paid strict attention to the degreasing process, you will have one of the finest blue jobs that it is possible to produce. If there is not sufficient humidity for a coat of rust to form in the given time, make a box to completely enclose the work and place a pan of warm water in the bottom of it. The box will usually increase the humidity enough to allow the coating of rust to form adequately. The parts are now ready for final assembly. If you've done your "homework" you will now have a reliable, accurate semi-automatic pistol comparable in most respects to many of its commercial counterparts. Good luck and good shooting!