Kit Installation Instructions: Please Read Completely Before Installation
Kit Installation Instructions: Please Read Completely Before Installation
Kit Installation Instructions: Please Read Completely Before Installation
T
his installation guide was written to provide the novice and professional with easy
guidelines for differential setup. Over the years we have gathered information from
Gleason gear design manuals, Dana Spicer instruction manuals, technical bulletins
and General Motors repair manuals. We have personally experienced good results using
the techniques in these instructions while setting up over forty thousand differentials.
Ring and pinion gears are designed to be set-up and run with exact tolerances. Replacing
all parts every time a differential is worked on is not only unnecessary, but is ridiculous.
However, any gear misalignment or deflection under load caused by worn or questionable
parts, can lead to early failure that can cost a lot more than the price of replacing them the
first time. Use your best judgment and remember that fixing your differential again, if it
fails, will take as much time and money as it did the first time.
We highly recommend Timken bearings and have used them for as long as we can
remember. We believe Timken bearings have held up best in all of the differentials we have
assembled or disassembled. We also recommend using only new or good used parts. New
parts are usually worth installing and save a lot of time and money that can be list by using
worn or questionable parts that lead to early failure.
We hope that these instructions are helpful and you will get years of use from your
differential.
Thank you Robert Hunt and Gregg Lloyd for your expert input and advice.
60
60
80
60
60
60
60
60
70
80
70
70
70
80
75
150
70
70
70
(FOOT LBS)
TORQUE
R.G. BOLT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
55
55
55
55
80
55
135
65
110
110
175
150
120
60
60
80
60
60
60
60
70
75
95
70
70
70
78-89
100
145
70
70
70
(0.000”)
2 Cut
11-16
8-12
8-12
B/L 1. Set-Up Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1. Tool List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
(0.000”)
5 Cut
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
4-10
9-16
9-12
11-16
10-15
6-10
6-10
10-16
6-10
6-10
10-15
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
4-8
6-8
4-8
4-8
6-10
6-10
6-10
B/L
Note: Set up specifications are recommended only. Please call with questions.
2. Disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3. Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-12
USED
PINION BEARING
6-7
6-7
5-6
6-8
6-8
6-9
12-15
6-9
8-10
12-15
9-11
8-12
8-12
6-8
12-14
8-10
6-8
6-7
6-7
6-8
6-8
6-8
6-8
5-6
5-6
5-6
5-6
7-12
15-19
5-6
5-6
5-6
(INCH LBS)
PRELOAD
Order of Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Selecting Shims . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
12-15
12-15
10-13
12-15
12-15
14-19
22-35
14-19
17-30
22-35
25-40
20-40
10-40
14-19
6-7
14-19
14-19
13-15
13-15
14-16
14-16
15-19
20-35
12-15
12-15
9-14
8-11
9-15
16-28
14-17
14-17
12-15
NEW
Preparing Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Seal Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
SHIM DEPTH*
.050
.065
.065
.042
.042
.055
.052
.061
.060
.025
.020
.026
.022
.022
.022
.022
.027
.025
.095
.074
.070
.020
.067
.085
.055
OEM
Assembly Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Set Up Specifications
9.5" Landcruiser
9.5" Tundra
Truck V6 R.
7.5" F. or R.
8" F. or R.
Used Gear Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Samurai
8.0" IRS
D30 JK
D44 JK
9-3/8"
TOYOTA
10.5"
S135
D25
D27
D28
D30
D44
D50
D70
D80
SUZUKI
7.5"
8.8"
DANA
FORD
(FOOT LBS)
70
60
55
55
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
55
60
60
63
80
120
200
60
60
135
175
50
100
75
60
90
90
90
75
100
63
120
200
65
55
TORQUE
55
75
65
55
55
55
55
65
165
103
175
175
65
55
4. Final Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
B/L
3-6
3-6
3-6
3-6
3-6
5-7
5-7
5-7
5-9
4-8
4-8
5-9
5-9
5-7
5-7
5-7
Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
(0.000”)
5 Cut
Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
6-10
B/L
5. Tooth Nomenclature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
USED
PINION BEARING
6-7
6-8
6-8
6-9
6-8
6-7
6-7
6-7
6-7
6-7
6-7
6-7
6-8
6-8
6-8
7-9
7-9
8-11
8-11
6-8
6-7
8-11
6-7
6-9
6-9
6-8
6-8
7-10
6-9
6-9
7-10
10-20
8-11
8-11
6-8
6-7
6. Acceptable Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
(INCH LBS)
PRELOAD
12-14
13-17
12-15
12-15
13-15
15-25
14-19
14-19
17-22
15-25
15-25
20-30
14-19
12-14
NEW
.025
.030
.030
.037
.037
.032
.030
.055
.055
.030
.030
.017
.030
.025
.034
.030
.090
.090
.030
.032
.065
.035
.055
.055
.095
.045
OEM
Checking Backlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
10.5" AAM (W/Out Pin Support)
‘63-’79 Corvette
9.25" ZF (C235)
8.2" Olds/Pont
D36 Corvette
D44 Corvette
8.25" (C213)
12 Bolt Pass
11.5" AAM
10.5" AAM
11.5" AAM
9.25" Rear
7.5" & 7.6"
Model 20
Model 35
8" (C205)
8.75" ‘41
8.75" ‘42
8.75" ‘89
8.25" IFS
9.25" IFS
CHRYSLER
7-1/4"
C200
7.75"
7.2"
8.2"
8.0"
9.5"
AMC
Disassembly
1. Ensure that you have everything you need before working. Verify whether all new parts
match the application and parts invoice.
2. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or jack, and support the vehicle with approved
jack stands. Never work on an unsupported vehicle.
3. Drain used gear oil into a suitable container. We recycle our waste oil and request that
you recycle yours, too.
4. Remove the axle shafts.
5. Mark the main caps for reinstallation on the appropriate side and in the correct orien-
tation.
6. Mark all shim thicknesses and locations during disassembly.
7. Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts.
Tool List
To work on your differential you will need a wide variety of tools. Using the correct tools
will save time and prevent part damage. You may need the following tools:
n Dial indicator
n Precision calipers or micrometer
n Gear-marking compound and a clean brush
n Bearing pullers
n Bearing press
n 10- or 12-inch spanner wrench or Yukon spanner tool
n Misc. hand and air tools including
– Three-foot-long breaker bar or strong impact gun
– Pinion nut socket
– Ring gear bolt socket
– Main cap bolt socket
– 6-point or 12-point cross-pin bolt wrench (as applicable)
– Brake line wrench
– Pry bars for removing the carrier case
– 24-oz. ball peen hammer
– 48-oz. sledgehammer
– 48-oz. plastic-face dead-blow hammer
– Assorted brass drifts for removing bearing races
– Yukon bearing race drivers
– Center punch or number stamp for marking main caps
– Oil drain pan
n Torque wrenches in both pound/foot and pound/inch increments.
Checking the Pattern n A contact pattern centered from face to flank indicates the correct pinion depth.
We can determine how gears mesh by changing how close the pinion gear is to the ring n A contact pattern closer to the gear face means the pinion is too far away from the ring
gear centerline. While we can’t see how the gears actually relate to each other, we can coat gear. To correct the pattern, move the pinion toward the ring gear centerline.
their mating surfaces with gear-marking compound and read the patterns the gears create n A contact pattern closer to the gear flank means the pinion is too close to the ring gear.
as they mesh. To correct the pattern, move the pinion away from the ring gear centerline.
Genuine gear-marking compound offers a clear indication of gear contact without run-
ning or smearing. Anything other than gear marking compound (such as blue machinist
dye) will not give a clear indication of tooth contact. Dilute the marking compound with a Used Gear Sets
small amount of oil if necessary to create a smooth, but not runny, paste. Coat three or When setting up a used ring and pinion, concentrate only on the pattern created on the
four ring-gear teeth in at least two places with a moderate amount of compound and rotate coast side of the ring gear teeth. Pay little attention to the drive side. This is true for most
the ring gear four or five times around the pinion gear in both directions. Rotate by gra- used gear sets, although both the coast and drive sides should be considered in some
bing and turning the ring gear, not the pinion. instances.
Pinion resistance against the rotating ring gear helps establish a good pattern. Pinion
bearing preload usually provides enough resistance for a good pattern, but additional
resistance can be added by wrapping a shop towel around the yoke and pulling the two Adjusting Pinion Depth
ends tight. When changing the pinion depth, make large changes until the pattern is close to ideal.
Consider 0.005” to 0.015” a large change and 0.002” to 0.004” a small change. Intentionally
make adjustments that move the pinion too far at first.
If the pinion moves too far and the pattern changes from one extreme to the other, the
correct pattern lies somewhere between the two extremes. Once you get close to the cor-
rect pinion depth, make smaller changes until the pattern centers between the face and the
flank of the ring gear teeth.
Once the backlash and pinion depth meet tolerances, remove the carrier and establish
the final pinion bearing preload.
Crush Sleeve Design Write down each shim-pack combination and its resulting preload when changing shims.
Setting the pinion bearing preload in differentials that use a crush sleeve is relatively easy, After reaching the correct pinion-bearing preload, moderately tap both ends of the pinion
although final assembly always requires a new crush sleeve. to seat the bearings, races and yoke. Do not strike the pinion too hard, as excessive force
The crush sleeve permanently distorts, or crushes, at approximately 300 to 400 may damage the bearings. Carefully double check the preload after seating the bearings.
pounds/feet of torque on the pinion nut. Tighten the pinion nut until it exerts the optimum
bearing preload, as measured by the
pounds/inch torque wrench on the pinion
nut. While setting preload with a crush
sleeve is easy, it requires a certain
amount of patience.
Pinion preload doesn’t exist until the
bearings contact the races, but the pre-
load increases rapidly once the bearings
meet their races. Tighten the nut in small
increments until the preload reaches the
ideal setting. Carrier bearing puller Pressing on carrier bearing
Take plenty of time to set the preload,
1/2” impact gun on pinion nut since tightening the pinion nut beyond Final Backlash and Carrier Bearing Preload Adjustments
the ideal preload threshold effectively After setting the pinion depth, backlash, and the pinion bearing preload, set the carrier
destroys the crush sleeve. The only remedy for excessive preload involves a new crush bearing preload. Three different shim or adjustment methods, screw adjusters, outside
sleeve and another attempt to establish proper preload. shim design, and inside shim design, cover most differentials.
After reaching the correct preload, moderately tap both ends of the pinion to seat the
bearings, races and yoke. Do not strike the pinion too hard, as excessive force may dam-
age the bearings. Carefully double check the preload after seating the bearings. Screw Adjuster Design
The easiest method uses screw adjusters to set the backlash and carrier bearing preload.
Carefully oil the adjuster threads on both the housing and on the adjusters themselves.
Preload Shim Design Note the order in which you tighten the adjusters so the backlash remains consistent, even
Setting pinion bearing preload in differentials that use shims exclusively often requires sev- when subjected to heavy loads.
eral attempts. The pinion gear always forces the ring gear away from itself whenever it transfers power.
Carefully clean the shims, as dust and metallic particles on the shim surfaces cause false Start with a looser backlash setting than the axle’s manufacturer calls for and always
preload readings. Start the procedure with the original shims, or add 0.003” to the original ensure that the last adjustment made to the left adjuster tightens it.
shim-pack dimension to compensate for the amount the bearings settled into the housing. If the backlash becomes too tight, loosen the left adjuster first, followed by tightening the
Tighten the pinion nut slowly to avoid damaging the bearing should the shim stack prove right adjuster. To reestablish the backlash setting, tighten the left adjuster. Ensure that the
too thin. The pinion nut torque varies by thread size but is usually between 200 and 300 last adjustment made to the left adjuster tightens it to eliminate any space between it and
pounds/feet. its bearing race. Any space or looseness on the left side will let the carrier deflect when
Measure the preload by rotating the pinion with the pound/inch torque wrench. If the under load, and this will allow backlash to open up when driven under load.
preload doesn’t meet the axle manufacturer’s specifications, change the shim pack dimen- Once the backlash approaches the manufacturer’s recommendations, tighten both left
sion in one of the following ways: and right adjusters evenly to increase carrier bearing preload. Set the carrier bearing pre-
n Remove shims to increase pinion bearing preload. load to approximately 150 to 200 pounds/feet. It is difficult to damage bearings with exces-
n Add shims to decrease pinion bearing preload sive carrier bearing preload on a screw-adjusted differential.
n If the preload is close and the backlash is too loose, tighten the left adjuster a notch or End View of Tooth from Heel
two until the backlash is correct and the preload is sufficient. (Outer End)
n If the preload is close and the backlash is too tight, tighten the right adjuster until the
backlash is correct and the preload is sufficient.
As stated before, ensure that the last adjustment made to the left adjuster tightens it. That
Face (Top Land)
will eliminate the possibility of a space between the adjuster and the bearing race.
FINAL CHECKS 4
Pattern
Now that the pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash, and carrier bearing preload
are set, check the pattern one last time to make sure that it is correct. Drive
(Convex)
Toe
Oil (Inner end)
When filling the axle with oil, use a high quality name brand and fill the unit to the manu-
facturer’s recommended capacity. Synthetic oil is recomended for most applications.
Drive Drive
Toes
Toe Toe 1. Normal or desirable pattern: The pattern should be centered on the tooth from face to
(Inner end) (Inner end)
flank. There should be some clearance between the pattern and the top of the tooth
(face) and between the pattern and the bottom of the tooth (flank).
2. Pinion is too close: Move the pinion away from the ring gear centerline.
Drive Drive
Toes
Toe Toe 3. Pinion is too far away: Move the pinion towards the ring gear centerline.
(Inner end) (Inner end)
This warranty does not cover, and Yukon shall not be liable for, incidental or consequential
damages, including loss of time, road service charges, labor charges, inconvenience, loss of
vehicle use, loss of revenues, or loss or damage to personal property (including loss or
damage to vehicle parts due to the failure of the Yukon product). In addition, this warranty
does not cover, and Yukon shall not be liable for, any undertaking, representation, or agree-
ments made by dealers or other third parties selling Yukon Gear & Axle® products, except
where such agreements are within the provisions of this Warranty statement. Also, this
warranty does not cover damage to the axle caused by or facilitated by failure of a non-Yukon
component.
This agreement offers you specific legal rights. You may also have other rights which vary
from state to state.