Unit

2 Tools, Materials and

Stitches for Hand
Embroidery

Introduction
In the previous Unit, we got acquainted with some
technical terms used in the world of embroidery. We
also learnt a few methods of tracing the design on the
desired material. Now, we will learn about the various
tools used by an hand embroiderer; and how to identify
and appropriately select them for hand embroidery.
Students will also be able to select suitable fabrics,
needles, threads, frame, thimble, scissors, etc. by the
end of this unit.
They should also be able to embroider the design
using various stitches such as stem stitch, running
stitch, chain stitch, French knot, bullion stitch, satin
stitch, long and short stitch, etc. So the final output of
the embroiderer in the form of embroidered cut fabrics,
garments or any item would be beautiful and suitable
as per the end use of the product.

Session 1: Tools and Materials

To carry out embroidery, identification, selection and
handling of embroidery tools and materials is important.

(a) Different types of fabric

Fabric is used to make garments and home furnishing
items. Most fabrics are made from yarns, but the

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 basic component of textile fabrics is fibre. These may
be natural fibres, like wool, linen, cotton, silk, etc., or
synthetic fibres, like acrylic, polyester, acetate, etc.,
Fabric is formed using a variety of techniques, like
weaving, knitting, felting and netting (the four basic ways
of constructing fabric). Mostly, natural fibres (with the
exception of silk) are short and are called staples. The
long continuous strands of silk and man-made fibre are
called filaments. These staple and filament lengths are
then twisted into yarns. The appearance and durability
of the yarn is affected by the degree of twist. Gently
twisted yarns are suitable for napped fabrics which are
soft and rather weak. Tightly twisted yarns are used
for smooth fabrics such as gabardine. In general, the
tighter the twist, the smoother and the stronger would
be the yarns.
Note: Nap and pile are often used interchangeably, but
it is advised that both the terms be used differently to
avoid confusion.
Weaving is the most common method of forming
fabric whereby two sets of yarn are worked at right angles
to each other. The knitting method uses machines to
produce a fabric of interlocking loops. In felting method,
moisture, heat and pressure are applied to short fibres
to produce a matted layer. Felts do not fray but they do
tend to tear when they are damp. In netting, the yarns
are held together by knots wherever they intersect.
It can be as heavy as the fish net or as light as lace,
depending on the fibre used.
Embroidery is practised on all kinds of pliable
material which can be pierced with a needle and
thread. The quality of embroidery depends not only on
the workmanship, but also the quality of the fabric,
threads, the intricacy of the design, the closeness of the
stitches, and the colour combinations. Almost all types
of fabric can be used for hand embroidery. However, the
commonly used fabrics for hand embroidery are linen,
satin, cotton, silk, crepes, georgette, chiffon, velvet,
terri-cot, polyester, etc.
Counted thread embroidery (in which the fabric
threads are counted by the embroiderer before inserting

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 the needle into the fabric) requires an even weave fabric,
meaning, a fabric that has the same number of threads
vertically as well as horizontally. Such fabrics are
described by the number of threads or blocks per inch,
usually known as the count. This count will determine
the finished size of the design. A wide variety of even
weave fabrics like matty for cross stitch, is available in
the market for counted needlework.
Embroidery will enhance the beauty of the fabric only
when it is done on a suitable fabric using appropriate
design, needle, thread, backing and other materials.
The fabric should be chosen according to the use of
the end product, for example, for garments, medium
or lightweight fabrics are suitable, such as cotton, silk,
georgette, terry-cot, chiffon, satin, organdy, etc. Fabrics
used for home furnishings are heavier than the fabrics
used for garments, such as cambric, glazed cotton,
raw silk, jute, velvet, etc. The stitches of embroideries
are used according to the weight and thickness of the
fabric. Mostly, running stitch, stem or satin stitch, lazy-
daisy, etc., are used on medium-weight fabrics, while
herringbone, chain stitch, jaali work, etc., are used on
lightweight and thin fabrics. Button-hole stitch, blanket
stitch, cross stitch, running stitch (long stitches), etc.,
are mostly used on heavy fabrics. There is no rigid rule
to select the stitches according to the fabric but the
hand embroiderer should select the fabric according
to the end use of the fabric, design and stitches of
the embroidery, construction of the fabric, thickness,
crispness, softness, and weight of the fabric.
Following are the fabrics commonly used for
hand embroidery:

(i) Linen
It is a fabric made from natural fibres, like from vegetables
 

or animals and insects like silkworm. It is relatively soft,

smooth, lustrous and is very strong textured. It is used
for shirts, safari suits, kurtas, kurtis, and children’s
wear. It is also used for aprons, bags, upholstery and
many home furnishing items.

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 (ii) Cotton
It is a fabric made from cotton which is obtained from
the cotton plant. It is soft, smooth and absorbent.
Cotton is suitable for garments worn close to the
skin to keep the body cool in summers, since it aids
air circulation. A large variety of kurti, lehenga-choli,
saree, salwar-suit, shirt, kurta-pyjama, jackets, safari
suit, trousers and children’s clothes are made of cotton,
and decorated by hand embroidery. It is also used for
home furnishings like bed sheets, pillow covers, table
cloths, table runners, curtains, etc. Cotton is suitable
for embroidery as it is easy to pull a needle and thread
through it. When the weave is loose, it is easy to pass
the needle with the thread, but when the weave of the
fabric is tighter, it will be difficult or even painful for
the fingers of the embroiderer while pulling the needle
and thread through. The weave of the medium-to-heavy
weight coarsely woven cotton is a little loose, hence
making it easy to pull the needle and thread through
the fabric.

(iii) Crepe
It is a light-to-medium weight fine fabric and is used
for making flowing garments since it drapes very well.
It has crinkled surface due to the high-twist silk yarn
or chemicals. This look can also be given by a special
weave called the crepe weave. Crepe fabric was originally
made using only silk, but nowadays different kind of
fabrics, such as chiffon, cotton, and rayon, etc., are
commonly used to create crepe fabric. Fur, silk and
original leather, blended silk, crepe, linen, chiffon,
etc. are being liked and used in the fashion industry.
Among the contemporary fabrics, crepe is well-liked by
customers and designers. Mostly, crepe has a creased
or grain surface that has very small folds or ridges. It
can be embroidered, embellished with different designs
to create a more ethnic, traditional look for the end
product. Different types of crepe include Moroccan
crepe, wool crepe, plisse crepe, crepe de Chine and
crepe georgette.

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 (iv) Satin
It is a fabric woven in warp-faced stain weave and has a
smooth and shiny surface. Satin is a smooth, delicate and
medium-weight fabric. It falls gently down the surface it
has been draped on enhancing the natural shape of the
surface. It has a lot of shine, which makes it suitable for
use as garments as well as home furnishing. Because
of its gentle shine and draping qualities, satin is mostly
used for evening wear, bridal wear and party wear. Even
though most embroidery stitches can be easily done on
satin, special care needs to be taken while fixing the
frame. Because of its delicate and slippery nature, it’s
very easy to damage the cloth or the embroidery while
putting the frame.

(v) Velvet
It is a medium-weight, mostly silk or synthetic f ilament
 

yarn fabric with a cotton backing. It has a short, soft,

thick warp pile surface that stands up vertically. There
are various varieties of velvet fabric differing in their
weight. Velvet is a type of woven and tufted fabric. In
velvet, the cut thread fibres are evenly distributed over
the surface, with a short and very dense pile weave
which gives it a unique and lustrous feel. Velvet can be
made from synthetic or natural fibres. Velvet’s nap (the
layer of fibre ends raised from the ground weave of the
fabric) gets damaged when pressure is applied on it. An
embroidery frame can damage its delicate surface, so
velvet is not framed. Embroidery designs with complete
filled areas and a filling stitch work show the best on
velvet. Running stitches and narrow satin columns will
sink into the velvet’s pile, so they should be avoided.
Velvet is used for making evening wear. It is also used
for home furnishing.

(vi) Silk
The strength, lustre and softness of silk makes it the
most attractive textile. Silk fibre is considered to be
the perfect natural substance in all respects for yarn
making. Silk is the longest of all natural fibres and is
very smooth. It is said to be the most lavish, lustrous

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 and rich fabric. Silk is one of the most popular fabrics
for designer party wear because of its rich look. It is
soft and comfortable, hence suitable for draping. It is
also lustrous and luxurious. The embroidery on silk is
mostly done with silk threads.

(vii) Gabardine
It is a twill-weave fabric made of a variety of natural
and synthetic fibres. It is a medium-weight fabric made
of fine yarns. Gabardine is commonly used for making
garments, such as coats, jackets, skirts and trousers,
due to its nature of holding a steady crease. Even though
it is thick and stiffer than materials described earlier, it
is comfortable and soft to wear.

(viii) Georgette
This fabric is a thin, transparent, lightweight fabric and
is mainly made of highly twisted silk yarns. The twisted
yarns are used in both warp and weft directions. Like
silk and satin, this also has a soft feel and drape well.

(ix) Jean
It is a durable cotton fabric. It is made of fine cotton yarn
in twill weave. It is mainly used for making trousers,
skirts, jackets and shirts, etc.
Note: The term jean here refers to the fabric while
popularly ‘jeans’ refer to the trouser-like garment made
of denim fabric.

(x) Organdy
It is a thin, light and transparent cotton fabric in plain
weave with a stiff finish. It is made from good quality
combed spun yarns. The yarn is made from long staple
cotton and is spun with many twists. This, along with
the finishing process, produces its characteristics of
transparency and crispness. Its sheerness and crispness
are the result of an acid finish given to lawn fabric in
gray state. It is used for making saree, kurtis, tops, and
other children’s garments. This fabric is mostly used for
summer and evening wear.

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 (xi) Poplin
It is a fine and tightly woven cotton fabric of plain weave.
It is the fabric with fine cross-ribs created by finer warp
yarns and heavy weft yarns. Poplin is mainly used for
making shirts, kurtis and children’s garments. Many
times, it is used for home furnishing items also.

(xii) Rubia
It is a thin muslin, slightly thicker than the voile
fabric. It is always made of ply yarns in a yarn count of
150 – 200s constructed with plain-weave. It is used for
making blouses, kurtis and other dress material.

(xiii) Chiffon
It is a lightweight, sheer, shiny, and plain-weave fabric.
It is made from highly twisted yarns. It has good drape
and is used for making evening wear and party wear
garments.

(xiv) Cambric
It is a closely woven plain-weave cotton fabric which is
finished with a little gloss on one side. It is a medium-
weight fabric. It is used mainly for making children’s
and adult garments. It is thicker than rubia.

(xv) Voile
It is a sheer, transparent, soft, lightweight, plain-weave
fabric. It is made of highly twisted spun yarns. It is
used for making children’s wear, blouses and dupattas,
turbans and sarees.

(b) Different types of needle

The most essential tool without which hand embroidery
is not possible is the needle. It has three parts, namely
the eye, shaft and point. Needles are available in different
thickness, length, size of eye, sharpness and shape of
point. The number indicates the size of the needle—
the higher the number, the finer would be the needle.
Different brands of needles some time offer different
numbers to the needles. Mostly, embroidery needles
are available in assortment packages. For example, an

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 embroiderer can purchase different types
of needles in packages of assorted sizes
1–5, 3 –9 and 5 –10, etc., to have a variety
 

of sizes available while embroidering.

The selection of the size of the needle is
done based on the weight or thickness
of the material, the required fineness of Fig. 2.1(a) Parts of a needle
the embroidery and the kind of thread to
be used, e.g., if silk thread is being used
on chiffon or silk-like soft material, a
very fine and high numbered needle would
be required.

(i) Crewel needle

It is the basic embroidery needle most
often used for hand embroidery. They Fig. 2.1(b, c) Types of needle
are sometimes also known as embroidery
needles. Except for its long slender eye, it does not differ
materially from the sewing needle in shape, and it comes
in the same size numbers. For embroidery, crewels should
be used unless some other kind of needle is specified.
The long eye helps inserting and accommodating
embroidery threads easily. The sharp tip of the needle
helps the needle pierce the tightly woven fabrics more
easily. Crewel needles come in different sizes but most
popular sizes to embroider are size 7 and 9.

(ii) Tapestry needle

It is very useful for wools, matty and open weave
fabrics. It enables the embroiderer to avoid the splitting
of threads. This needle’s rounded point allows it to Fig.2.2 Crewel needle
slip between the threads of the materials rather than
through them. Tapestry needle point is blunt and it
has a large eye; it is inserted between the threads of
the fabric without piercing them. These needles are
commonly used in counted thread work such as cross
stitch, pulled and drawn thread work, and lacing on
composite stitches. Tapestry needle has a shorter shaft
than a crewel needle but it has a much longer eye,
which is slightly larger than the shaft. Due to the open
holes in the weave of the fabric, even the blunt tip can
pierce through it easily. Tapestry needles are the most
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 appropriate tool for any type of stitch that
involves lacing for surface embroidery.
The blunt tip of the needle prevents it
from snagging other stitches on the fabric.
Tapestry needles are available in the local
market in different sizes mainly from 13 to
28, with 13 being the largest and 28 being
very f ine.
 

(iii) Milliner needle

This is also called a straw needle. The
milliner needle has a shorter, almost round
eye. It has very long shaft and a sharp
tip. The eye and the shaft on a milliner
needle are the same size, which makes
Fig. 2.3 Tapestry needles
these needles appropriate for working any
wrapped stitches such as bullion knot,
French knots, etc. They are also used for pleating and
creating fancy stitches. In bullion knots and French
knots, the shaft and the eye of the needle are of the
same size, making it easy to pull the milliner needle
through the wraps and make the knots on the fabric.
It makes these wrap stitches so easy to work and the
stitch comes out looking neat.

(iv) Chenille needle

This is a big needle with a long thin eye and a sharp
point used for thick threads. This needle is appropriate
Fig. 2.4 Milliner needles for stem stitches, lazy-daisy stitches, straight stitches,
mirror work, etc. It is also useful for tacking couched
threads to the back of the fabric.

(v) Sharp needle

It is mainly used as a sewing needle and has a small
eye. It may also be used for embroidery.

(vi) Between needle

It is same as the sharp needle, but shorter.

(vii) Beading needle

It is a long, very fine needle with a tiny eye for small beads.
 

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 So far, you have read about the different kinds of
fabrics suitable for different end products and kinds of
needles to be used for the desired style of embroidery.
Let us now read about the kinds of threads that can
be used with different fabrics and suitable for styles
of embroidery.

(c) Different types of thread

Like the selection of fabric, needle and style of design, it
is important to learn about the selection of thread used
for embroidering a particular design. The factors to keep
in mind while selecting a thread are colour, texture,
length, thickness and suitability to the final effect of the
embroidery pattern.
Threads are one of the basic materials needed for
embroidery. The most commonly used threads are
stranded cotton threads. These threads have mostly
six separate strands which can be used together, or
separated and used singly or in groups. These threads,
often referred to as ‘stranded silk’ though they are Fig. 2.5 Embroidery thread
actually mercerised cotton, are lustrous and suitable
for most types of embroidery. The benefit of stranded
cotton thread is that the strands can be separated and
recombined in any number to achieve differing thickness
and effects. Sometimes, different brands offer different
numbers to the thread. The embroiderer can select the
threads according to his/her requirements. Wonderful
effects can be achieved by using different threads, like
pearl cotton, silk threads, metallic thread, fine wool
thread, and viscose rayon thread—the list is endless.

(i) Pearl cotton

This type of thread is very commonly used for
hand embroidery. It is a highly mercerised
and twisted thread. It is a smooth, single
ply embroidery thread with a shiny and
lustrous look. Pearl cotton threads are
available in skein or a ball with differing
thickness, colour and shade. They are
available in different weights. The higher
the number, the finer would be the thread. Fig. 2.6 Pearl cotton

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 (ii) Metallic threads
This category of threads is an innovation in embroidery
work. The use of metallic threads adds shine and
glamour to the embroidery work. These are available in
the market in colours like gold, silver, platinum, copper
and antique or aged versions. Metallic threads are quite
durable and require less care.

Fig. 2.7 Metallic thread Fig. 2.8(a) Satin thread Fig. 2.8(b) Rayon thread

(iii) Satin and rayon threads

It is a term used for synthetic threads which give a
brighter and shimmery look in the embroidery. These
threads have a satin-like shine and are usually packaged
as floss that can be separated in
different ply.

(iv) Overdyed threads

These are shaded threads. These
threads have more than one
colour in a single strand. They can
be hand dyed or mass produced
in cotton or silk embroidery floss.
These threads are available in
different weights. Using these
overdyed threads gives the
embroidery pattern a totally
different look because of changes
Fig. 2.9 Overdyed threads of colour at short intervals.

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 (v) Wool threads
These are used in some special embroidery forms where
a thick woollen look is required in the embroidery.
These threads are available in a variety of weights and
colours. These threads are most commonly used in
counted thread work.

Fig. 2.10 Wool threads Fig. 2.11 Novelty threads

(vi) Novelty threads

These include a wide range of styles, textures and
material. Novelty threads can be fuzzy, metallic
textured, leather, plastic, etc. They are used to give the
embroidery pattern a special look.

(vii) Pure silk sewing thread

Embroidering on fine fabrics such as silk, a silk
sewing thread can be used for fine embroidery
such as faggoting, pin stitch and hem stitch, etc.
Many other types of threads with special
characteristics are available in the market with
different brand names. These threads can be
selected according to the suitability of the fabric,
design, liking of the user, etc.
Now, we are almost set for starting
embroidering. We have even read the about
threads now. Let us see how we can hold all
these material together for a neat outcome. Fig. 2.12 Pure silk sewing threads

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 (d) Embroidery hoop or frame
This tool is required to hold and stretch the fabric to a
desired firmness and tightness while doing embroidery.
A frame is a set of two rings; each ring fits inside each
other, so that the material placed between them is held
firmly and the fabric surface becomes tight and smooth
Fig. 2.13(a) Embroidery to embroider. The most common type of frame for hand
hoop (frame) embroidery is the ring frame. It is always advisable to
use a frame or hoop while doing embroidery to give the
embroidery pattern a beautiful, neat and finished look.
These frames are made of wood, plastic or metal and are
easily available in the market in different sizes. Their
size is measured by diameter, mostly ranging from
7.5–30 cm (3–12 inches) they are suitable for doing
embroidery on small designs. The hoop usually has a
nut and a bolt for tightening of the fabric between the
Fig. 2.13(b) Two rings of an
embroidery hoop (frame) two rings of the frame. While stretching the fabric on
the frame, it should be kept in mind that unnecessary
tightening by the nut bolt can damage the fabric. When
embroidery is to be repeated on different parts of the
fabric, the frame may be fixed on different parts of the
fabric according to the placement of the embroidery
design. When embroidery is to be done on a large design,
an adda (a big adjustable frame using mostly wooden
bars) may be used. Plastic frame is a good option for
embroidery work, because it is durable and it doesn’t
stain the fabric. Many times, metallic frame stains the
fabric because of the rusting. Wooden frames may draw
the yarns of the fabric, hence damage the fabric or the
embroidered pattern. Sometimes when the surface of
the wooden frame is not smooth, fine wooden strands
may be pricked in the fingers of the embroiderer.

Other materials used for embroidery

Needle threader
It is a small handy tool with a wire loop to thread the
needle. It is very helpful for those who have difficulty in
threading needles.

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 Fabric glue
This kind of glue is used only for fabrics and does not
damage it. It is used to attach beads, sequins, pearls or
different decorative material on the fabric. 

Seam ripper
It is a small tool to open or unsew the stitches in case
Fig. 2.14 Seam ripper
of faulty stitches.

Thimble
It is used to protect the fingers from getting pierced
or discoloured during embroidery. Metal, rubber and
plastic thimbles may be available in the market. The
embroiderer must take care of his/her hands and use
thimble while doing hand embroidery. Thimbles can be
worn in any of the fingers or the thumb of the hand.
Mostly, it is worn in the index or middle finger which
holds the needle. It must be comfortable and should be Fig. 2.15 Thimble
light in weight. It is used to push the needle to the fabric
painlessly without harming the finger.

Ruler
A simple ruler of 6 or 12 inches may be used to measure
the accuracy of embroidery as per the motif and design
whenever it is required. Wooden, plastic and metallic
rulers are available in the market.

Trimming materials
These are used to decorate the embroidered patterns
made on any fabric, sample or garment. They may be
selected according to the embroidery design, type of
fabric, end use of the product or material, liking of the
user, etc. Different variety of trimming materials such
as stones, mirrors, gota patti, beads, dori, etc., are
available in the market. The embroiderer can select
them according to his/her requirement.

Scissors for hand embroidery

Small scissors of a 3–5 inch length, are mostly used
by the hand embroiderer to cut the threads, edges of
the fabric, etc. Mostly, scissors with metallic or plastic

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 handles are available in the market. The embroiderer
can use it according to his/her comfort or requirement.
It is advisable to use sharp scissors of stainless steel.
Handle the scissors carefully to avoid any accident.

Micro-tip scissors
It is a sharp tip pointed small scissor, mainly used to
cut f ine threads very near to the embroidery pattern.
 

Pinking shears
These have blades which give a zigzag edge to the
fabric. It is used to cut the fabric to prevent fabric edges
from unravelling.

Embroidery designs
The embroiderer can select the design according to
his/her requirement. Designs may be taken from the
catalogue, Internet, magazines, etc.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Collect samples of different types of fabrics and threads.
Material Required
1. A3 size sheet or practical file
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Samples of fabric and thread
Procedure
1. Search and collect samples of different types of fabric and
thread.
2. Attach the fabric on a sheet or in your practical file.
3. Put the samples of thread in transparent pouches.
4. Attach the pouches on the sheet or in the practical file.
5. Label the name of the fabrics and threads.

Activity 2
Collect samples of different types of trimming used in hand
embroidery.

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 Practical Exercise
Material Required
1. A3 size sheet or practical file
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Samples of different types of trimming
Procedure
1. Search and collect different types of trimming.
2. Put the samples of trimming in transparent pouches.
3. Attach the pouches on the sheet or in the practical file.
4. Label the names of the trimming.
5. Decorate the sheet or practical file using coloured pens or
pencils.

Activity 3
Make a chart of the tools and raw materials used for the hand
embroidery process.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Coloured pens and pencils
3. Ruler
4. Pencil
5. Eraser
6. Pictures of different tools and raw materials used for hand
embroidery
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of different types of tool and raw
material used for hand embroidery.
2. Draw the figure of the tools if a picture is not available.
3. Label the tools and raw materials.
4. Make a chart depicting the tools and material that you think
may be required for the hand embroidery process.
5. Display the chart in the classroom or the laboratory.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks
1. ______________________ is the basic needle most often used
for hand embroidery.

2. Tapestry needle point is _____________________ with large eye.

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 3. The stranded embroidery thread has mostly
______________________ strands.

4. A ___________________ is a set of two rings, each ring fits

inside another so as to hold the fabric tightly while doing
embroidery.

5. _____________________ is used to protect f ingers while doing

 

hand embroidery.

6. __________ __________ is a small tool to open or unsew the

stitches in case of faulty stitches.

B. Questions
1. Different fabrics are used for different uses. Explain by giving
two examples.
2. Why are different types of thread used for hand embroidery?
3. Which kind of needle can be used to embroider on silk or
crepe fabrics?
4. Write two lines each on —
(a) Thimble
(b) Trimming materials
(c) Scissors

Session 2: Embroidery Stitches

The skill of the hand embroiderer lies in the right
selection of the design, embroidery stitches, threads
and colours which would result in a product of beauty
and grace. The stitches are used to form the outlines
and/or to fill the surface of the embroidery pattern on
the fabric. The basic embroidery stitches used in India
and elsewhere have a similarity. There are different
types of hand embroidery stitches, some very similar,
others so different that all they have in common is that
they are handwork. Often, two or more stitches can be
embroidered in a single design to give an attractive look.
Sometimes, the stitches of hand embroidery are divided
into the following categories: outline and surface work,
knot stitches, edging and hem stitches, flower stitches,
satin stitch, buttonhole and eyelet stitches, cross and
shadow stitches, etc. There are a number of hand
embroidery stitches and their variations. Different
decorative materials can also be used to enrich the
beauty of the embroidered products.

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 In this session, some flat and loop stitches are
considered for the learning of students. These are the
stitches which students should learn in the initial
stages. With time and practice, students can learn
more hand embroidery stitches and their variations.
Students should follow the tips for hand embroidery,
given in Unit III of this book.

General steps to be taken by the embroiderer

The following basic steps need to be followed while
doing any kind of embroidering and can be used for
both flat as well as loop stitches. Once the embroiderer
has prepared herself/himself by following these steps,
s/he may follow the specific steps of a particular style
of embroidery.
(i) The fabric of the traced embroidery design should
be firmly fixed in the frame. Fix the fabric in
 

such a way that the design is in the centre of the

embroidery frame or hoop. Gently fix the fabric  

between the two rings of the hoop and tighten with

the screw of the hoop or frame.
(ii) Collect all the appropriate tools and materials
required for doing embroidery work.
(iii) Thread the needle with required strands of the
thread.
(iv) Pull the thread on the upper side of the fabric at
the initial point of the design from the back side of
the fabric. Attach the end of the thread by a very
small knot, or hiding the end with the stitches on
the back side of the fabric.
(v) Make sure your hands are clean and washed so as
not to leave stains on the fabric or the thread.

Hand embroidery stitches

(a) Flat stitches
It is a group or type of simple embroidery stitches in
which stitches are made without looping the thread.
They are also called straight stitches. These stitches are
mostly used to embroider straight or curved outlines
but sometimes used for filling also, depending upon the
type of design. Some of the common flat stitches are

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 running stitch, stem stitch, back stitch, herringbone
stitch, cross stitch, etc.
(i) Running stitch
It is the basic stitch to start learning the embroidery
and also useful for making base for other embroidery
stitches. It is made up of small evenly placed stitches,
used on both straight and curved designs, like petals
of flowers, letters and any other geometrical or curved
design. The size of the stitches will be determined by
the texture or thickness of the fabric—the finer the
fabric, the smaller the stitches, while the coarser the
fabric, the bigger the stitches. The length of stitches is
also determined by the type of design, end use of the
material, liking of the user, etc. While working on this
stitch, care must be taken that all the stitches should
pass through the total thickness of the material, not from
the superficial or upper layer of the material. This stitch
is used in the finishing process of a fabric, any stitched
item or garment, etc. It can be used for outlining, for
spirals, and as the base for other combination stitches.
The needle should be passed through the fabric in such
a way that the upper stitches should be of equal length,
as should the under stitches, but the under stitches
should be half the length of the top stitches.
After following the general steps for embroidering
given above, follow the steps for making a running stitch.
1. Take several very small stitches (length of the
stitches may be as per choice of the embroiderer and
design) onto the point of the needle before drawing
the thread through the fabric.
2. Pass the needle above and below the fabric at
equal distances.

Fig. 2.16(a) Running stitch Fig. 2.16(b) Running stitch — final look

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 3. Take the thread on the backside the fabric to close
the stitch.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ii) Back stitch
It forms the base line for decorative stitches. It is
necessary to keep the line of the back stitch straight
and uniform. It is excellent for finishing the outlines of
the design. In hand embroidery, this stitch is taken from
the backside of the needle and is thus called the ‘ back  

stitch’. There are no spaces between the back stitches.

The reverse side of this stitch appears like a stem stitch.
In back stitch, the embroidery is done from right to left.
If the stitches overlap one another, the design becomes
stiff and the shape gets spoiled. Back stitch embroidery
looks flat and painted.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a back stitch. Fig. 2.17(a) Back stitch
1. The needle must be moved a step backwards before
a step is taken forward along the stitch line.
2. Bring the needle out at 1. Insert at 2 and remove at
3; distance between 3-1 and 1-2 should be equal.
Repeat the sequence for the next stitch.
3. Continue in a similar manner and keep the length of
the back stitches consistent.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to Fig. 2.17(b) Back stitch—
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric. final look

(iii) Split stitch

This stitch makes a solid thick outline with an added
texture or effect to it. This stitch is used in outlining
as well as in filling some areas. When it is stitched, the
needle moves ahead by splitting each stitch. The name
of this stitch is derived from the fact that the embroidery
thread is split as each stitch is made. Split stitch is
a variation of stem stitch in which the needle passes
through the thread of the previous stitch, splitting the
previous stitch.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the split stitch.

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 1. Bring the needle through the fabric,
hold the thread down, and take a
(a) (b)
stitch back through the thread, thus
splitting it.
2. Take another small stitch about 1/8  – 1/4
Fig. 2.18(a) and (b) Split stitch
inches long on the marked line of the
design, splitting the thread again.
3. Continue in this way until the desired number of
stitches has been made.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(iv) Stem stitch
It is a fine outlining stitch which can be seen as a row of
oblique even-sized stitches. The needle is first brought
Fig. 2.18(c) Split stitch— to the front side of the fabric, an oblique stitch is made.
final look The needle is then pushed towards the back side of
the fabric. On the back side, the needle moves a short
distance before being taken out from the front side,
beside the previous stitch. To make the stem stitch, the
work should be begun at the end of the line nearest to
the embroiderer and pointing the needle towards him/
her, progress away to make the stitches. Keep the thread
on the same side of the needle all the time. If you want
a very smooth, unbroken effect, throw a twisted thread
in the direction of the twist of the thread, usually to the
left. By throwing it to the right, you work in opposition
to the twist of the thread to get a rougher effect, which
is sometimes liked by the users. It is also used in
combination with other embroidery stitches. This stitch
is used for flowers, stems, outlining and solid
line that is required in a design. This is one
of the easiest and most durable embroidery
stitches. It is made with any kind of thread,
the size varying with the effect sought. The
finished embroidery will look like a thin line
on the front side, whereas at the back side it
will look like a back stitch. The stem stitch
is used to embroider mostly small designs
on bibs, baby frocks and handkerchiefs. In
addition to that, this stitch is also used to
Fig. 2.19(a) Stem stitch embroider saree borders and delicate tendrils.

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 After following the general steps for
embroidering, follow the steps for making
the stem stitch.
1. Insert at some distance and exit a
half stitch length backwards. (In every
case, the needle must be moved a step
backward before a step is taken forward.)
2. Keep the length of the stitches equal. Fig. 2.19(b) Stem stitch—final look
3. Till the design is complete, the thread
should be kept either on the left side or on the
right side.
4. Proceed in this way, keeping the stitches even
in length.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(v) Cross stitch
It is formed by two crossing arms. In this, a single
diagonal stitch is taken first in one direction and then
in another to cross the first at right angles. These
crosses are worked in groups to form mostly letters
and numerals, geometrical designs, etc., cross stitches
are worked in rows of even slanted stitches, first from
the left to the right, laying down half the crosses, and
back from the right to the left to complete them. A blunt
tapestry needle is used for this stitch. The most suitable
fabric for a cross stitch is an even weave fabric. Matty,
gingham, casement, khadi, jute and other checked
fabrics are mostly used for cross stitch embroidery.
While making a cross stitch on a matty fabric, the
squares of the matty fabric can be counted easily and
the stitches may be made according to the design on the
matty. The cross stitch is used for embroidering saree
borders, dresses, including that of children, and home
furnishing items such as telephone mats, dining table
mats, bed covers, pillow covers, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a cross stitch:
1. The designs are made using small cross stitches,
such as geometrical, floral, animal, bird, numerals,
etc.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 47

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 2. Bring the needle upwards and take cross stitches
from the left to the right. Repeat the same from the
right to the left to complete the cross.
3. In this way, the whole cross stitch design will be
made. Change the shade of the thread according to
the design and complete it.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Fig. 2.20(a) Cross stitch design Fig. 2.20(b) Cross stitch steps Fig. 2.20(c) Cross stitch sample
on a graph

(vi) Herringbone stitch

This stitch is a variation of cross stitch. In herringbone
stitch, the cross is made at the top and bottom instead
of in the centre as in the cross stitch. On the back of the
fabric, the stitch is visible as parallel rows of running
stitch. The stitches can be worked closed together by
working two rows of stitches over each other so that the
stitches intersect in different style to form a variety of
design of greater or lesser intricacy. Embroidered with
a slight gap between two lines, when worked closely it
is called close herringbone. When the close herringbone
stitch is worked on a semi-transparent fabric, the reverse
is used as the face of the embroidery; it is called shadow
work. To maintain the shape of the design, herringbone
stitches are taken close together. These stitches are
well suited for floral designs and to neaten the edges
of materials. This stitch should have the small stitches
equally spaced alternately at the top and bottom. The

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 herringbone stitch is used mostly to embroider saree
borders, kurtis, blouses, children’s garments, etc. It is
also used to embroider home furnishing items.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the herringbone stitch:
1. To maintain the shape of the design, take a small
stitch in the opposite lines of the design on the
fabric.
2. Take out the needle behind the previous stitch and
slightly in front of the thread. Work from right to left
and left to right.
3. Continue in the similar way to complete the line.
4. When the design is in the double lines, take the first
stitch on the upper line and the next on the lower
line in front of each other. This gives a cross stitch
look. While embroidering floral designs, take the
stitches very close together. This makes the design
clear, prominent and attractive. If embroidering with
two colours, take the stitches with the some gap in
between both the lines. And if embroidering with
single colour, then take the stitches close together
in both the lines.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Fig. 2.21(a) Herringbone stitch Fig. 2.21(b, c, d) Herringbone stitch steps Fig. 2.21(e) Herringbone
stitch—final look

(vii) Couching stitch

In this stitch, single or multiple threads, wires and
decorative materials are laid on the fabric and held in
place by sewing with a thread in diagonal stitches. It is
helpful in creating thick and thin outlines in single and

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 49

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 dual colours. The stitches can
be placed close together or wide
apart. The sewing thread can
either match the laid material or
be different, as per the required
effect. The couching stitch can
be worked on outlines or to fill
the areas by laying the material
side by side, covering the
(a) (b)
whole area to be embroidered.
To achieve the raised effect, a
Fig. 2.22(a, b) Couching stitch
soft and thick cotton thread is
laid and secured as the foundation. Then, the material
for couching is taken and is couched all through the
motif by the stitches passing through the material. This
stitch is mostly used on dresses and jackets, kurtas
and sherwanis, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a couching stitch:
1. Place one thread along the design outline.
2. Place a stitch with the contrast or same coloured
thread over the first thread.
3. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(viii) Satin stitch
This is made by working parallel or radiating stitches
close together to completely cover the design, from the
front and back side of the fabric. Satin stitch looks
similar on both the sides of the fabric. Narrow and
small-sized floral designs are mainly suitable for this
stitch. To make a neat and clear embroidered pattern
of this stitch, the design is outlined with running
stitches. To give an embossed look to the letters of the
monogram, lining is used beneath the embroidery.
Satin stitch is used to mostly embroider monograms.
It is used on handkerchiefs, bags, pillow covers, sofa
backs, children’s garments, sarees, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a satin stitch:
1. Make an outline of the design with the running
stitch or stem stitch to be embroidered.

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 2. Bring the needle from below,
upwards, at the beginning of
the design.
3. Insert the needle from above,
downwards, at the other end of
the line of the design.
4. Repeat the same process for
it. Take the stitches close to
one another pulling the thread
gently.
5. Go on embroidering carefully
to avoid puckering. (a) (b)

6. Take care that the thread does Fig. 2.23(a, b) Satin stitch

not overlap at curves.

7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ix) Long and short stitch
As long and short stitches are taken one after another,
therefore, the name of this type of stitch is the ‘long
and short stitch’. The long and short embroidery is
done in floral designs, and in patterns depicting birds
and animals. Two different shades of a colour or
sometimes, even three shades of a colour are selected
for the design. The embroidery is done from the upper
part of the design. In the beginning, an outline is done
with the running stitch with a light coloured thread. In
this stitch, the light shade of a colour is used on the
upper part and a dark shade is used on the lower or
the inner part of the design. This stitch seems similar
on both the sides of a fabric. The fabric is kept tight in
the embroidery frame. This avoids puckering. Long and
short stitches are mostly used for embroidering logos,
children’s garments, photo frames, wall pieces, sarees,
table covers, bed sheets, pillow covers, sofa backs,
handkerchiefs, woollen shawls, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the long and short stitch:
1. Make an outline of the design with a running stitch.
Refer to the steps in (i).

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 2. Make the design by making
one stitch long and the
next one short. Carry this
out using a single coloured
thread.
3. The other shade of the colour
should be used in such a
way so that it intermingles
correctly with the previous
shade of the same colour.
There should be no gaps
remaining between the two
colours of stitches.
Fig. 2.24(a) Long and short Fig. 2.24(b) Long and short 4. Continue embroidering the
stitch stitch—final look design in this way.
5. Take stitches very close to one another so that they
intermingle.
6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(x) Fishbone stitch
This stitch resembles the backbone of a fish, therefore it
is called fishbone stitch. This is a type of filling and flat
stitch, which is suitable for making leaves or feathers.
The vein of the leaf is used as the centre and the stitches
are taken alternately to its left and right. Usually oval
and narrow shaped designs are selected for the fishbone
stitch. Two shades of the same colour are used in the
design to make it more attractive. The fishbone stitch
is mainly used to embroider children’s garments such
as bibs, frocks, yokes, etc. It is also used to embroider
handkerchiefs, home furnishing items, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a fishbone stitch:
1. Begin the work from the upper part of the vein of the
leaf, petal of the flower or according to the design.
2. Bring the needle from the backside to the front side
and make a small stitch.
3. According to the size of the leaf, make a stitch about
1–2 cm long from the upper part of the vein.
4. Now take one stitch to the right of the vein upward
from below.

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 5. In the same way, take a stitch to the left of the vein
from the upward to the downward direction.
6. Then bring out the needle from the left side of the
vein upwards.
7. Similarly, insert the needle to the right side of the
vein and continue embroidering.
8. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

(a) (b) (c)

Fig. 2.25(a, b, c) Fishbone stitch

(b) Loop stitches

It is a type of embroidery stitch in which loops are
formed from the embroidery thread. Chain stitch is
the most common type of loop stitch. Some other loop
stitches are buttonhole stitch, blanket stitch, French
knot, bullion stitch, fly stitch, etc.
(i) Chain stitch
It looks like a loop formed by passing the thread over the
point of the needle, as the needle is pushed to the front
side from the back side and securing it by the following
stitch. It is used mostly to embroider straight lines. But
it can be used to embroider floral designs, birds and
animals, etc. In case of floral designs, the chains are
made very close to each other for filling effect. It can also
be used in rows or in spirals. A single thread is more
effective than a number of strands. While embroidering
this stitch, the distance between the two stitches should
be kept equal. To make a broad outline, the needle is

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 53

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 passed across in a slanting way with loop thread under
the needle. Bring the thread out at the beginning of the
line, hold the thread down with the left thumb while the
needle is reinserted into the same spot and brought out
again a short distance away. Draw it through, over the
loop of thread under the thumb. The needle always goes
down again into the same hole. The stitches should be
kept even in length. They should never be drawn very
tight; because that destroys the effect of their being
linked in a chain. The chain stitch is used to embroider
adult and children’s garments. It is also a very common
stitch for embroidering home furnishing items, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a chain stitch:
1. Bring the needle from below, upwards.
2. The needle is inserted back into the same hole and
taken out at some distance above it.
3. The working thread is carried under the needle point.

(a) (b)
Fig. 2.26(a, b) Steps for making a chain stitch

Fig. 2.26(c) Steps for making a chain stitch Fig. 2.26(d) Chain stitch—final look

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 4. Now, pull the needle very gently, so the chain loop
is made.
5. Carry out the next stitch the same way, always
inserting the needle into the hole made by the
emerging thread. Continue in this way for the entire
line or the design.
6. Work a chain stitch holding the thread which is
being stitched firmly with the thumb. Adjust the
loose thread and then adjust the chain stitch just
made.
7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(ii) Lazy-daisy
This stitch is mostly used to embroider small petals
and leaves. It is a small loop stitch. At the end of the
loop, create a small stitch which looks like a daisy petal.
Space out the next loop or use the stitch to create a
daisy by making five or more petal shapes to create a
flower shape. The lazy-daisy stitch is a variation of the
chain stitch. The size of the thread must be chosen
to correspond with the size of the petal: medium-fine
thread (or two or three strands of six strand thread) for
small petals; very heavy rope thread (or the full number
of strands of six-strand thread) for large petals. Two
colour schemes make it more attractive.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the lazy-daisy stitch:
1. It is worked by taking out the needle from below,
upwards, at the base of the petal or the flower.
2. The needle is inserted back into the same hole
and taken out at some distance above it. Carry the
thread under the needle point.
3. Press the loop thread firmly under the thumb and
pull out the needle gently. Insert the needle just
over a chain loop.
4. To avoid twist in the thread, take out the needle
from the nearest petal.
5. Proper shape and distance should be maintained
while embroidering small petals of a flower or leaves.

Tools, Materials and Stitches for Hand Embroidery 55

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 (a) (b) (c)
Fig. 2.27(a, b, c) Lazy-daisy stitch

6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to

end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(iii) Blanket stitch
It is similar to the buttonhole stitch and is mainly used
to finish the blanket’s edges. It is one of the simplest
ways of decorating or holding a garment’s hem or
edge. This stitch can be worked in straight or diagonal
lines. Variations of blanket stitch can produce some
attractive effects.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a blanket stitch:
1. Slant the needle to the left for the first stitch and
then insert it in the same place for the second, but
slant it to the right.
2. Two rows of blanket stitch, one straight and one
slanting are worked to get a coloured binding on the
edge of the fabric.

Fig. 2.28(c) Blanket stitch — final look

(a) (b)
Fig. 2.28(a, b) Making a blanket stitch Fig. 2.28(d) Blanket stitch variation

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 3. The straight stitches are only half the width of the
binding.
4. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(iv) Buttonhole stitch
This stitch is used to finish buttonholes; thus, the name
‘buttonhole stitch’. This stitch is to create an outline,
finish the edges or attach appliqués. It is also used for
attaching mirrors in embroidery patterns. Though the
buttonhole stitch can be used in any type of design, it is
mostly used for doing floral designs. These stitches are
placed very close together to form a firm edge. At times,
this stitch is used in the centre of a motif. The needle
enters the same hole in the centre each time, making
a hole in the centre while the wheel around it is filled
completely. The buttonhole stitch is used for outlining
and attaching mirrors in embroidery, for example, most
of the mirror work in Gujarat and Rajasthan uses this
stitch. It is used to make the corners of table covers,
bed sheets, sofa covers, chair covers, saree borders, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the buttonhole stitch:
1. Bring the needle out from below upwards, on the
design line.
2. Based on the width of the stitch, insert the needle at
one edge and take out from the other.
3. Before pulling the needle through the fabric, carry
the thread under the needle point.
4. Embroider carefully to keep the width of the stitch
even and work all the stitches very close together to
keep the continuity.

(a) (b) Fig. 2.29(c) Buttonhole

Fig. 2.29(a, b) Buttonhole stitch stitch—final look

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 5. In case of groups in the buttonhole stitch, even
space should be maintained after each group.
6. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(v) Feather stitch
It is used differently in double line and floral designs.
In the double line designs, the stitches are taken with
some gaps in between. In the floral designs, the stitches
are taken close to each other as well as small in size. In
this stitch, each loop is formed first to the right hand
side and then on the left hand side of the embroiderer.
All stitches should follow the same direction and
should be equally spaced. This stitch is mainly used in
embroidering handkerchiefs, bibs, saree borders, neck
and sleeve borders, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a feather stitch:
1. The needle is brought from the backside to the front
side on the line of the design.
2. Work stitches from the top to the bottom.

(a) (b) Fig. 2.30(c) Feather stitch—

Fig. 2.30(a, b) Making the feather stitch final look

3. A feather-like look comes from their being open,

looped stitches taken alternatively to the right and
the left from a central core.
4. Every time the needle is pulled very gently, press
the stitch under the thumb.
5. Because of the back-and-front movement of the
needle, care should be taken to keep the stitches
even on both sides of the central line.
6. It is advisable to draw guidelines lightly for the
central line as well as for the side lines before
Fig. 2.30(d) Feather stitch
sample starting the work.
7. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

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 (vi) Fly stitch
It is also a type of loop stitch. The formed stitch resembles
the wings of a fly, and is therefore known as fly stitch.
Its variation can be made by adjusting the lengths of the
loop. It involves making a single loop with the thread
and then tacking it down. It helps in forming designs
like small plants, birds and grass, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making a fly stitch:
1. Bring the thread out from underneath the material,
letting the thread hang in the form of a semicircle.
2. Take out the needle from the opposite side, a little
farther from the first stitch, and take a stitch till it
forms a V-shape by keeping the thread under the
needle.
3. Insert the point of needle below the looped thread,
thus forming the couching stitch required to hold
the loop in place.
4. Continue from step one to complete the design.
5. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.
(vii) French knot
It is a favourite with embroiderers because of its rounded,
raised look that makes the design look elevated. It is Fig. 2.31 Fly stitch— final look
mostly used to create the centre of a flower and the eyes
 

in an embroidered figure. Figures with outlines, birds,

animals, flowers and leaves are selected for the French
knot. Outlines of animals and birds can be made more
delicate by using only one strand of the thread. The
method to embroider the French knot and the bullion
stitch is almost the same. Thus, sometimes they can be
used to substitute each other. French knots are used in
garments like bibs, frocks, skirts, etc. It is also made on
handkerchiefs, pillow covers, bed sheets, etc.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making the French knot stitch.
1. Bring out the needle from below upwards, at a point
where the French knot is to be made.
2. Hold the thread tight with the left hand.
3. Wrap the thread around the needle once or twice
(clockwise/anti-clockwise).
4. Gently pull the thread so that the twists are tightened
against the needle.

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 5. Carefully insert the needle
near the first point and pull it
through; be sure that the thread
end is still held taut.
6. A continuous line of knots is
made to outline the embroidery.
For floral designs, take the
knots close to one another.
(a) (b) (c) 7. Make a loop and pull the thread
Fig. 2.32(a, b) French knot Fig. 2.32(a) French from the loop to end the stitch
knot — final look
on the backside of the fabric.
(viii) Bullion stitch
It takes its name from its resemblance to the heavy
twisted gold bullion used in fringes, tassles and ornate
embroidery. It is used mainly for embroidering small
roses. It creates a very realistic effect, especially when
two or more shades are used in a rose. The floral design,
when embroidered with shaded thread gives the effect of
a beautiful rose. For making leaves, the thread is twisted
according to the length of the leaf. The bullion stitch
looks beautiful on frocks, saree borders, necks of kurtis,
handkerchiefs. It can be made on home furnishings also.
After following the general steps for embroidering,
follow the steps for making bullion stitch:
1. Take out the needle from the backside to the front in
such a way that three fourths of the needle is above
the fabric. Hold the eye of the needle with the left hand.
2. Coil the thread around the needle according to
the size of the petals of the design (clockwise/
anticlockwise).
3. Hold the coiled thread with the left hand so that the
twists are tightened against the needle.
4. Now arrange them on one side of the petal and insert
the needle.
5. Repeat the same process for the other side of
the petal.

(a) (b) (c) Fig. 2.33(d) Bullion

Fig. 2.33(a, b, c) Bullion stitch stitch—final look

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 6. In this way, a complete pattern will be made.
7. For the inner portion of the flower, five twists are
sufficient and for the outer layer of the flower,
6–12 twists should be made.
8. By following this order, beautiful flowers can be
made through the bullion stitch.
9. Make a loop and pull the thread from the loop to
end the stitch on the backside of the fabric.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare samples of different types of flat stitches.
Materials Required
1. A3-sized sheet or practical file
2. Tracing paper
3. Carbon paper
4. Fabric sample of size 9” × 9”
5. Ruler
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Embroidery threads of different colours
9. Embroidery needles
10. Hoop
11. Scissors
12. Glue or any adhesive
Procedure
1. Trace the design on the fabric sample using tracing or
carbon paper. Students can also draw the design freehand
on the fabric sample.
2. Fix the fabric sample firmly in the frame.
3. Embroider the design of the sample using loop stitches.
(Follow the instructions to perform flat stitches as given in
the session)
4. Finish the sample edges using hemming or using pinking
shears.
5. Attach the sample on the sheet or in the practical file.
Note: The student should make samples of all flat stitches.
Tip: All bright coloured threads will show better on light coloured
fabric and all light shades of threads will look prominent on
dark coloured fabrics.
Activity 2
Prepare samples of different types of loop stitches.
Materials Required
1. A3-sized sheet or practical file.

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 Practical Exercise
2. Tracing paper
3. Carbon paper
4. Fabric sample of size 9” × 9”
5. Ruler
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Embroidery threads of different colours
9. Embroidery needles
10. Hoop
11. Scissors
12. Glue or any adhesive
Procedure
1. Trace the design on the fabric sample using a tracing or
carbon paper. Students can also draw the design freehand
on the fabric sample.
2. Fix the fabric sample firmly in the frame.
3. Embroider the design of the sample using loop stitches.
(Follow the instructions to perform loop stitches as given in
the session)
4. Finish the sample edges using hemming or using pinking
shears.
5. Attach the sample on the sheet or in the practical file.
Note: The student should make samples of all loop stitches.

Check Your Progress

Fill in the blanks
1. It is necessary to keep the line of the back stitch ____________
and ______________________.
2. Cross stitch is formed by two ______________ ______________.
3. Herringbone stitch is a variation of ____________________
stitch.
4. __________________ stitches resemble the backbone of a f ish.
 

5. Lazy-daisy stitch is a variation of ____________________ stitch.

6. Blanket stitch is mainly used to f inish __________ __________.
 

Questions
1. What is the difference between flat stitches and loop stitches.
Write steps to make any one of them.
2. Draw step-wise, the method of making chain stitch.
3. Which cloth is most appropriate to use cross stich? Draw a
pattern on a graph paper to be used for cross stitch.
4. Write short notes on
(a) Herringbone stitch (b) Fishbone stitch

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