Ambattur Clothing Limited

APPAREL INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED (SP 53), 2010
APPAREL INTERNSHIP
DOCUMENT REPORT
AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED
AMBATTUR ESTATE
CHENNAI
For the Partial Fulfilment of the Course
“APPAREL PRODUCTION”
AMRUSHAA. P
SHAHNEER NADAF
DFT-VII
2007-2011
Submitted to:-
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
CHENNAI
PREFACE
On completion of the Sixth semester of a four year Apparel Production Under-graduate

course students are exposed to an eight week industry internship with a garment
manufacturing organization as part of their course curriculum.
The objective of this summer internship is aimed at blending the classroom principles
with industry application.
The other specific purpose includes:
 Exposure to factory and office conditions.

 Study of manufacturing processes thoroughly.
 Understand inter and intra - departmental procedures.
 Analyze different working procedures and know the problems and causes.
To fulfil this purpose we did our internship at “AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED”

and are grateful to the management who granted their permission and opportunity for the
same.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Amrushaa. P and Shahneer Nadaf, students of four year Apparel Production course in
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, for the partial fulfilment of our course,
underwent a Summer Internship at ”ACL”, at its Sri SP 53 Unit for Eight Weeks.
For the same we would like to thank our course coordinator Ms. Divya Satyan, and
our faculty mentor Mr. Yuvraj Garg without whose concern and efforts, this internship would
never been possible.
We are also highly grateful to Mr. Srinivasan, Sr. Manager, HR., ACL, Head office,
who granted us the permission to work as internees.
We would like to thank Mr. Manohar K Babu, General Manager, ACL, SP 53 and
Mr. Saravanan, Manager in R&D Dept., ACL, Head office, who helped us during the project.
We would also like to thank the various workers and staff members who were there to
assist us at every step and to answer our queries.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SL. NO CONTENTS PAGE.NO
1 INTRODUCTION 5
2 HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT 9
3 MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING DEPARTMENT 11
4 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 13
5 PRE-PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 18
6 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 20
6 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT 26
7 CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 30
8 PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 36
9 ELECTRONIC DATA PROCESSING 38
10 SP53 INTRODUCTION 43
11 PROCESS FLOW CHART 47
12 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 52
13 SEWING DEPARTMENT 55
14 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 57
15 QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT 61
16 PROJECT-1 80
15 PROJECT 95
16 CONCLUSION 102
AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED
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Ambattur Clothing Limited (ACL) was established in the year 1981 with a work force of
150 employees by Mr. Vijay Mahtaney, first generation entrepreneur. Now ACL has grown
to an organization which is one of the largest garment exporters of India. Today ACL is
India’s fifth largest garment exporter.
After two and half decades ACL have 15000 people as workforce with total 9 production
units, 8 units in Chennai India, and 1 unit in Bahrain. ACL is known for its commitment to
quality and delivering within the stipulated time. It is equipped with latest state of the art
technology in the industry.
MISSION OF ACL
 To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individual’s pursuit of

dreams, equality of human dignity, ownership of organizational effectiveness and
open communication for collaborative and cohesive team work
 To constantly foster strong customer orientation, highly accountable role holding and
total performance alignment across the organization
 To incorporate the most effective and progressive training and development policy
which strives to meet the rising demands of the organization, wherein every employee
in the organization will undergo a minimum training on technical and behavioural
areas in a given calendar year
 To constantly foster a congenial working environment which motivates every
employee in the organization to facilitate maximum output
 To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly
institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and every
individual
ACL has been spreading its wings and flying across borders and cultures to reach out to
uncharted territories. May be that's why their portfolio of clients reads the who's who of the
international fashion fraternity.
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Fresh ideas and designs inspire them. Innovative ideas always find the expression they
deserve. With one design office in India and an offshore office in the U.S., their designers
bring a varied and rich repository of ideas to the process. The offshore designers keep ACL
updated with all the latest trends in the international garment and fashion design industry.
They believe in taking a genuine interest in the well being of their workforce. ACL is an
extended family fostering a special feeling of community. ACL is an equal Opportunity
Organization that does not practice bias of any kind.Internal Compliance Audit is conducted
twice a month and suggested corrective actions are taken immediately.
ACL is the supplier to some of the world’s leading brands like
1. J.JILL 2. LEVI’S
3. GAP 4. TALBOTS
5. BANANA REPUBLIC 6. FORTH & TOWN
7. ANN TAYLOR 8. OLD NAVY
9. BASS PRO 10. ESPIRIT
11. DIESEL 12. MAY STORE
13. DOCKERS 14. LIZ CLAIBORNE
15. EDDIE BAUER 16. NEXT
17. KOHLS 18. L.L.BEAN
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ACL SPECIALIZES IN THE MANUFACTURING OF FOLLOWING PRODUCTS:
PRODUCTS
MEN’S WEAR WOMEN’S WEAR
PANTS SKIRTS
SHIRTS TOPS
JACKETS JACKETS
PANTS
DRESSES
SHORTS
Overall Financial performance:
 Annual sales turnover of US $140 million.
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 Asset Base of US $ 57 million and net worth of US $ 74 million.
 Low Debt
 Rated best client in India by individual development Bank of India.
Departments in ACL:
The co-operation between various departments decides the success and growth of ACL. ACL
have the following departments:
1. Human resource and welfare department

2. Merchandising and Marketing department
3. Product Development Department
4. Pre production department
a. Pattern making, CAD/CAM and Marker making sections
b. Sampling section
i. Stores
ii. Cutting section
iii. Sewing section
iv. Button and Buttonhole section
v. Finishing and Packaging
vi. Embroidering section
vii. Washing
c. R&D section
5. CIED department
6. EDP department
7. Production department
HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT
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It is ACL’s vision to be the “Most Preferred Employer” in garment industry. For this means
the employed are:
 Ensuring value driven management

 Highly contemporary HR practices
 Focus on candidate’s short term and long term plans
 Flexibility towards horizontal and vertical movement within the organization
Employee Welfare is a continuous process and HR would concentrate on developing suitable
welfare measures, which are on par with the best industrial practices.
1. Welfare centre
A. Medical Centre
 Fully equipped ambulance room
 Master health check up for employees children
B. Day Care Centre for our employees children
 Accommodation for 150 children.
 Trained person for specialized care.
2. Employees working Environment
 Stimulating work environment.
 Free flow of communication, decision making and feedback are

encouraged at every level.
 Treated drinking water and clean, hygienic rest rooms.
3. Training and Development of the employees
 Technical know-how impacted on tailoring. Also organize up

gradation programs and attitudinal workshops.
4. Commitment to the society
 Funded an Eye hospital for the neighbourhood village
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 Employment of physically challenged people
5. Health/Safety/Hygiene/Sanitation
 First aid training
 Health and hygiene awareness programmes conducted
6. Secured Transport Facilities
 Pick up and drop facilities of all employees.
 Transport reaching out to all rural employees at a radius of 40 km.
7. Environment:
 Rain water harvesting and disposal of reated water to the common recycling
plant.
 Compliance to all environment and pollution control norms.
MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING DEPARTMENT
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This department is also known as Business Management Centre (BMC), which comes under
Marketing. Merchandising is planning, development, and presentation of product lines for
identified target markets with regards to prices, assortments, styling and timing. It is like a
central coordinating point for line development, design, execution and delivery of product
lines.
Since, ACL has very big clients, it becomes the need of the hour to have separate
merchandising department for all the buyers, individual merchandising departments of a
particular buyers are isolated from that of the other buyers, though the process followed there
are same.
There are various sub departments under merchandising department, which operates as soon
as the order is received from the buyer till its confirmation and given to the factory for
production.
Buyer mails the style no. for the next likely order. Merchandiser then checks out the style
number from the order tracker available on the web site of buyer, where the details including
the Bill of Material (BOM) are being posted. The Garment specification sheet (GSS) of
the style is also contained along with the other details. Three printouts of the GSS is taken out
and sent to R & D department, sampling department and CIED one each respectively.
R & D department checks for the production feasibility of style, the possible suggestions and
construction alternatives to make the style more production friendly without altering the
external aesthetics of it much, R & D comments are given to the merchandiser.
Hierarchy of Merchandising Department
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BMC
BMC HEAD
HEAD
(MANAGER)
(MANAGER)
MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER Sr.
Sr. Sr.
Sr. MERCHANDISER
MERCHANDISER
(PD)
(PD) MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER MERCHANDISER
MERCHANDISER (SOURCING)
(SOURCING)
Jr.
Jr. MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER (TOPS)
(TOPS) (BOTTOMS)
(BOTTOMS)
(PD)
(PD)
Jr. MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER
Jr.
MERCHANSIZER (TOPS)
(TOPS) (BOTTOMS)
(BOTTOMS)
MERCHANSIZER
(PD)
(PD)
Jr.
Jr.
MERCHANSIZER
MERCHANSIZER
(PD)
(PD)
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
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As the name implies, the product development department within marketing department takes
care for the steps of conversion of design from paper to garment with actual fabric.
Design Garment
on with actual
paper fabric
Garment design
Proto
Wash trials Printing &

development
Adoptio
n
Franchise
Critical fit
Production
Merchandising department sends sample request form to the sampling department along
with the GSS and pattern request form to the CAD/CAM department. Where all the details
about the pattern version to be taken are specified by the buyer is given.
Proto/ Early Book sample/Shrinkage sample is the first sample from paper to fabric. This
sample is produced to check the Pattern, fit, drape, and fall of the garment.
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Same or near to similar fabric is used for its production, original or spare trims can be used.
Ready sample is sent to buyer for his comments. Measurements should be within the
tolerances, and does not include shrinkage.
When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send merchandising department
comments. They will also give costing comment which can be done on style without
affecting design and style. These comments to be enclosed with sample request.
Depending upon the buyers comment amendment is made to the patterns by upgrading the
pattern version. And then the samples are sent for washing to check for shrinkage.
Wash trial done after the fit is finalized for proto, to check the measurement differences
before and after washing. Type of wash to be given to the fabric according to the feel and
requirement of the buyer is then finalized. Sleeve modes, leg panels, etc are made to test for
wash trials. The sample is sent to the washing department along with the wash request form.
Washing of the samples is also done in the main washing unit, but the machines for bulk
washes are different.
After samples reaches merchandiser (Product development team) it is needed to be cross

checked with the samples with GSS and BOM and fill the details of the sample on its label
and tag. Now sample is ready to be dispatched to the buyer.
Shrinkage is then added to the patterns and first fit sample is made which is sent to the buyer
with cost sheet, for his approval or comments in case of any amendments.
Adoption samples can also be called as final samples. These are made form original fabric,
and trims. It is representative of the bulk product to the buyer. Approval of this sample only
decides the confirmation of the order.
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Critical fit sample is made after when the buyer gives comments for the proto fit sample,
which would be incorporated in adoption stage. In adoption stage presentation is covered, in
critical fit all specifications should be within tolerance to assess the fit of the garment. It is
sent to the buyer for confirmed order; all specifications are followed in this.
Once this sample is approved the merchandising department sends a marker request form to
the CAD/ CAM department, so that fabric consumption per marker is calculated.
Franchise: Marketing team of buyer is sent all styles of samples. Requirements are same as
the aesthetics of the garments is important to them than measurement.
Buyer Tracker
GSS Research &

CIED
BOM Development
Pattern
Pattern request
Research & Development

Sample request comments
Marker request Process involved in Product Development
Wash request
Costing
(If applicable)
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Sample
Costing
Along with the first fit sample costing sheet is sent to the buyer for them to check or negotiate
the price per garment, and then decide the final cost at which the garment will be sold to
customer. While calculating the cost of one garment for buyer two cost sheets are used, one is
buyer’s cost sheet and another one for future reference.
Costing is done based on the comments from all the departments. Costing comments comes
from all the departments to the merchandiser. It is carried out by senior merchandiser, he
refers to the previous cost sheets of similar type of garments, and he has knowledge about the
mark ups where he can increase the price.
Cost of manufacturing a garment of that particular style includes:
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 Cost of fabric consumed per garment, which is calculated on the basis of the 1 st fit
sample as there comes hardly any variation in the consumption of the fabric, fabric
consumption is being determined by provided by CAD/ CAM department.
 Cost of the trims needed for one garment. Trims include buttons; zippers, thread
consumption per garment which is provided by MMC (Material management
centre), tapes and waist band stand in case of some garment, Cost of all the tags,
labels and all the packing material be it polythene, boxes, or hangers, tissue papers.
 Cost of production per garment includes all the factors like overheads, capacity etc. is
provided by the CIED department.
 Cost of the kind of wash and the raw materials required for that wash on particular
style is provided by the Washing Department.
 If the order is CIF (cash in freight) then the cost of transportation is also calculated.
For FOB cost of transportation till mother vessel is included. Since there is no mother
vessel available on the Madras Port, the shipment is first send to Sri Lanka where it is
transferred to a mother vessel. All the government tariffs, excise duties and other
taxes are added to the cost. Sum total of all the above costs gives the cost of a single
garment, which is quoted to the buyer.
To finalize the costing of sample:
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 Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%-10%)
 Contrast fabric factor- Contrast fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage
 Trims factor-Trims consumption * Price + Wastage
 Printing and embroidery prices
 Washing
 Cutting and manufacturing charges(CM)
The quoted cost includes the profit of the company. Mostly buyer accepts the quoted price
without any negotiation.
PRE-PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
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Pattern Making section
Pattern department is headed by three Senior Managers, Mr. Chandrasekhar, Mr. Gopa
Kumar and Mr. Ganesh kumar. They handle different buyers such as GAP, Eddie Bauer,
Talbots, Esprit, Levi’s, Diesel, Banana Republic and J.Jill etc. The main function of this
department is making new patterns, amending the patterns as per buyers’ comments, adding
shrinkages, grading etc. These patterns are used in sampling, sent to buyers for approvals and
also sent to factories for production. Pattern making system has version numbers for every
amendment.
Functions
 The senior pattern makers would work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts
trousers, dresses, skirts, tops, bottoms etc.
 The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns, grading
and amendments.
 The pattern assistants trim the racing received from the buyers and make templates.
 All factory amendments are also done by pattern department.
CAD/ CAM SECTION
The CAD department is affiliated to the pattern making department. The entire computer
aided patterns, amendments, shrinkage and markers are done in this department. The senior
CAD technicians work on the new patterns, amendments shrinkage and grading and the
junior technicians work on digitizing the patterns, tracings, duplication etc.
MARKER SECTION
Marker department work is doing markers for costing, for amendment and final stages to
derive on the fabric consumption of a garment.
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All factory lay markers are centrally issued from marker/CAD department. Factories do not
cut lays without the marker received from marker department.
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sampling department is equipped with state of the art machines. This department is self
sufficient with a store, cutting section, button and buttonhole section, finishing, home laundry
and embroidery sections. Sampling department is segregated buyer wise and each unit is self
sufficient with a sampling supervisor and a quality person who understand the quality
standards of their particular buyers.
The functions of the different sections of the sampling departments are –
Stores – This section in the sampling department keeps account of all the sampling fabric and
trims issued to them. They issue the same to cutting section and lines as per the sampling
requests.
Cutting section – This section is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics, pocketing, and
interlining to be used to the lines following the instructions mentioned in the sampling
requests issued by the concerned merchandisers.
Sewing section – Sewing section comprises many lines and each line comprises skilled
operators who can sew all operations. Apart from these operators there are operators who can
also work on specialized machines like the pin tuck machines, fagotting machines, and pick
stitch machines etc.
Button and Buttonhole section – This section takes care of button attaching, buttonholes,
bar tacks, snap attach, rivet attaching and shanking etc. This section work is limited to this
much, but it is one of the main sections in the sampling department.
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Finishing / Pressing / Checking section – This section comprises three sections. It is a

cluster of finishing, pressing and checking processes. The main works of this section are
pressing the garment as per the standards specified by the buyer which enclosed in the
sampling request. The garments ate trimmed in this section. And checked for workmanship
and then packed as per standards specified by the buyer/merchandiser.
Embroidery – The embroidery department is equipped with software to make the designs
and punch tapes. The department has four head embroidery machines and one person
exclusively for hand embroidery. The main function of this department is to done embroidery
work on the fabric / garment as per the buyer / merchandiser’s request.
Washing – The sampling department is equipped with one washing machine that does
washing of one or two garments, mocks etc. The washing of all other samples are done at the
state of the art washing unit located at D-16.
Stain Removal – The stain removal department as the name suggests help I removal of
handling, oil, ink stains or other any stains.
The work flow starts with the merchandising team handing over the costing sheet and the
tech pack to the pattern department along with the buyer block. As soon as the buyer block is
received, one sample is made from the buyer block as is to check the shape and balance.
Once this is approved, the pattern department starts making a pattern following the shape as
per the buyer block and, meeting the specs as per the tech pack. This first pattern is made
manually. In case no buyer block received then pattern made based on the previous style.
A pre fit sample is made and the same is fit on the dummy before wash. The same is
reviewed by the pattern head and the patternmaker along with sampling, R&D and QA team.
These corrections are then incorporated in the fit samples.
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After the receipt of buyer comments the pattern department thoroughly checks the pattern
amendments made by the buyer against the tech pack specs. After this point the pattern
department advices any spec that is to be advised to the buyer or grading queries if any to the
R&D department who in turn send to the queries to the buyer
After the first stage of pattern making the patterns gets digitized and saved in the CAD
system. Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment in place.
For e.g.: the first pattern for a particular style no. is named as version-A, for the next
amendment it is named as “B”. This method of numbering version continues as the style
undergoes a change.
The approved graded pattern is sent to the factory for production. After factory makes the
size set, they return the patterns to the centralized patter department for factory amendments.
All factory amendments are only done by the pattern department and the change can be
tracked as the version gets changed to numbers, for e.g.: if a pattern with a version-G sent to
factory after factory amendment the same will be named as “G1”.
Along with the above flow the pattern department also does the below functions:
 Adding shrinkage to existing patterns, grading and amendments

 To make net pattern for factories\consumption of lace, webbing tapes, draw cord etc
 Marker making at costing stage, fit stage and also to issue lay markers to factory
All samples are made by the sampling department based on the sampling request that is
issued by the merchant for every sample made. This request has details like trims, fabric
swatches, wash details tech packs, buyer comments etc.
Each line is comprised of qualified sewing tailors with one supervisor per line. All lines are
segregated buyer wise. Along with a supervisor there is one quality person who checks the
sampling request, reads the tech pack / buyer comments, R&D comments, understands the
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garment specification sheet and constructs the garment in the same manner. This person is
well educated about buyer standards and requirements such as “how to measure” and
construction manual. They are available in line and are responsible for the entire quality of
the garment.
Every fit sample is made only after a shrinkage sample is made. This shrinkage sample is like
a pilot run for sampling. This sample enables the sampling department to assess shrinkage,
set right sewing construction and work on alternate suggestions for the same. This “pre fit
sample” is reviewed by the entire pre production team. All review comments of the various
departments are noted in a “review sheet” so that the comments can be followed for the next
sample. Once the sample is assessed then the actual proto / fit samples are made.
Later the garments after all process and finishing is sent to the quality assurance team where
it is checked for the measurement, workmanship, construction and most importantly fit. The
fit is reviewed by the pattern, sampling, QA, and the R&D team together.
The pattern department has a Quality Assurance team who check all patterns which goes out
of pattern department in all aspects such as measurements, grading, shrinkage, construction,
buyers requirement, buyer amendment etc. All CAD and manual patterns are checked.
According to buyers every unit has highly qualified quality personnel, who reads and
understand the garment specification sheet and constructs the garment in same manner. This
person is available in line and is responsible for the entire quality of the garment.
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QUALITY CONTROL
Hierarchy of Quality Control
Director Quality
Senior Quality Manager
Quality Audit Managers
(One per factory)
Quality Auditors
(One per line)
Quality Controllers
(Five per line)
Fabric Mill
 Visited by the Quality Auditors (QA) on a consistent basis.
Material Management Centre
 In house basic lab
 Outsourced labs
 Fabric and trims inspection system
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Production Facility
 In process Defects per Hundred Units (DHU) system of quality control.
 Visual and statistical quality audit system of finished goods.
Wet processing
 Standards in place against which quality of goods are controlled.
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RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
Research and Development department is one of the most crucial departments in the
company. The main aim of this department is aiming at a better product and production
friendly construction methods to make it more feasible for the production floor. It gives
comments to the merchandisers which are used in the costing. These comments are known as
costing comments. Sometimes they give their suggestions to pattern departments also.
R & D department has different technicians heading different buyers. Their responsibilities
start from the costing stage.
 Construction feasibility for production and if necessary suggest better alternatives

 Any discrepancies in the Garment Specification Sheet (GSS) sketch, spec and
construction notes
 Comments from the pattern department that needs further clarification can be
discussed and queries are sent to buyers.
 Thread / Interlining / Needle quality suggested based on the fabric used for that
particular style, if it is not specifically mentioned in the Bill of Material (BOM).
 Samples are reviewed at all stages for the construction, fit, and the quality
 Any better alternatives regarding the material used in the samples (such as thread,
interlining, reinforcement, webbing tape, and elastic etc) are suggested along with
mock ups during the fit sample submits.
 Further specification of an operation to facilitate smooth productivity, this will be
conveyed to the buyers along with mock ups for their approval
 All the changes / additions to be made to the technical package (tech pack), to make it
perfect at final stages
 All sample comments forms / queries and updates are requested to by the concerned
technicians
 All the comments and the revised tech pack from buyer are cross checked by these
technicians and make sure that everything is updated in the tech pack as per the final
comments
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 Check and confirm that any correction or construction change given by the buyer
during the fit stage is feasible for production and if not the same will be conveyed to
the buyer with explanation
 Zipper lengths will be advised based on the tech pack and patterns by these
technicians.
Hierarchy of Resource and Development Department
DIRECTOR
DIRECTOR
Sr.
Sr. MANAGER
MANAGER
(TECHNICAL
(TECHNICAL
SERVICE)
SERVICE)
Sr.
Sr. PRODUCT
PRODUCT
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
PRODUCT
PRODUCT PRODUCT
PRODUCT
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
PRODUCT
PRODUCT PRODUCT
PRODUCT
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
PRODUCT
PRODUCT PRODUCT
PRODUCT
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
PRODUCT
PRODUCT PRODUCT
PRODUCT
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
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QUALITY PARAMETERS
All the beginning of every season, R&D department conducts a product development meeting
where all styles are discussed between patterns, sampling, R&D, merchandising, and
production departments. All factors regarding the style such as fabric, threads, needles,
machinery, construction, buttons etc are discussed in length and if any alternative methods
are made as mocks ad sent to the buyer for an approval.
With the passage of the style approval, the technical history of the style is maintained by the
R&D department. This history is transformed as a thesis in a particular format and headed
over to the factory. This “Production Package” as it is called has all necessary information
regarding the style such as the thread used for various areas, the different types of needles,
the gear combination of buttonhole / keyhole, all label placements, important buyer call outs
etc.
The package which consists of the style file, production patterns, approved sample and
production package comments is handed over to the factory personnel through a meeting
called as the “package handover meeting”. All relevant information regarding the style is
passed on to the factory by R&D department.
The costing tech pack is given by the merchandiser to the R&D department and the pattern
department simultaneously. The R&D department reviews the tech pack and confirms
production feasibility of the style to the merchant.
At the beginning of every season, R&D conducts a product development meeting where all
styles are discussed between patterns, sampling, R&D, merchandising and production. All
factors regarding the style such as fabric threads, needles, machinery, construction, buttons
etc are discussed in length and if any alternative methods are made as mocks are sent to the
buyer for an approval.
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The proto / fit sample is sent to the buyer along with “vendor comments” which are made by
the R&D department. The R&D department gathers all information regarding the style from
pattern and sampling and also adds comments regarding tech pack / BOM discrepancies.
After comments are received from the buyer all buyer comments and the new tech pack is
thoroughly checked by the R&D department for all updates, additions and deletions.
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CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
Objectives of CIED
CIED (Central Industrial Engineering Department) was conceptualized to optimize and bring
uniformity in the manufacturing process across all ACL factories. The primary objectives of
CIED were identified as:
 Establish standard methods for the operations

 Estimate standard work content for a garment
 Reduce the work content there by reducing the manufacturing cost
 Increase utilization of available resource like man, machine and work space
 Making production system more effective
 Highlight the balance of Piece rate among operations
 Benchmarking the factory performance and its status among others
CIED is acting as the bridge between the corporate-office and the production floor i.e. in
helping marketing people to understand the complexity of the product for accurate
negotiation of CM’s with buyer against the production cost involved for the product based
upon the factory efficiency.
Analyzing the work content of a garment at pre-proto stage for CM’s with options to
negotiate for CM’s.
After order confirmation the evaluated garment is reanalyzed for better & economical
methods to reduce the negotiated CM’s in order to stay in safe margin.
At production stage the factory’s achievements were being closely monitored and recorded, thereby
creating the awareness of factory status and requirement to improve its standard and in
benchmarking its achievements.
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Current Roles & Structure of CIED
BUYER
MERCHAN
DISING
R&D
PLANNING
CIED
FACTORY
SAMPLING
HRD
MIS
ACCOUNTS
/ FINANCE
Roles and Responsibilities of CIED
 Prepare Operation Bulletin to estimate SAM with productivity at costing stage
 Prepare detailed Operation Bulletin with machine types at production stage with
sample for factories before production.
 Update production sewing sams in garnet production package to monitor efficiency

operation wise as well as style wise and etc
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 Sam for post costing, The final production Sam is given to MIS department for Post
costing to compare the cost and performance
 Checking and validating the operation bulletin and the sams in production floor and
there by regulating the unnecessary operations.
 Recording special and new operations to video and building database for operations
with ASD analysis
Operating Procedure of CIED
At Costing:
 Receive GSS/BOM/Garment & relevant details or comments available from the

merchant against a agreement of receipt on the original copy and write down the
relevant merchant name on our copy of GSS with date of issue
 In special cases get clarification & confirmation regarding construction / styling with
R&D/Sampling Department and Merchant as well.
 Make a detailed operation bulletin with relevant assumption over the construction and
the buyer’s standards also with all the provided recent information.
 Allocate the SAM values form the ASD database for those Operations
 Complete the OB and arrive for a final sewing SAM value add Percentage if required
(esp. for Special / unconfirmed constructions)
 After SAM estimation, calculate the productivity based upon the product category
with the given condition (pls refer below).
 Provide SAM value along with productivity to the relevant merchants by mail to all
relevant persons and Department in charge.
Operating Procedure at Production
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 Receive production sample from factory check for style no and the ACL style no from
garnet else from the cutting alert mail
 Make a detailed engineered OB with best production feasible methods estimate SAM
 Values for every operation form ASD Time study database incase of new operation
cerate new operation in ASD master and as well as in the ASD Excel Database cerate
the OB either from ASD or from the Excel Database
 Maintain one unique Sam for a Style/ACL Style across factory
 Refer video database for making ASD analysis for every operation
 Update video database for unique videos for all the operations for which ASD is
analyzed
 Always update the Excel ASD database when-ever new operation is made in ASD
 Ensure the application of operation wise SAM value in the production line for every
style run by line and factory wise
 Inspect factory as a follow up of operation and method insist the method been
considered for ASD analysis and try to understand the reason for such deviation from
the CIED OB.
 Ensure the not to exceed the Coated SAM for Production, if so do evaluate the
difference and intimate the relevant authority for such mislead.
 Update the Sewing SAM to the garnet Production System to the proper style and ACL
Style in case of SAM revisions over write the SAM which in turn Generates a alert
mail to Department head, MIS Department and higher so always try giving one and
final SAM at Pre Production Stage If not Ensure that the Second revision to the Final
SAM.
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 After issuing the OB to the Factory check of the deviation in operation, construction
and other any issues
 Prepare a SAM comparison chart against the factory operation sequence after the style
audit been made
 Check the rate approval sheet on the basis of the above mentioned Comparison Chart
if there no any deviation in SAM proceed for
 Maintain Production OB database ACL style wise by saving the new OB’s into the
folder
 If there is any revision required always inspect and examine the requirement for the
change then discuss the same with the department and to the relevant person involved
for the deviation.
 After the style run, record the style efficiency line/factory wise to the efficiency
Database
 Every end of the month Check the Efficiency from Garnet with the MIS online
Efficiency in case of deviation make necessary call after detailed evaluation
 Monitor employee performance report for all factory through Garnet and do insist
production people for proper reasons for unusual records
Production SAM Database - has Excel files with all operations done by ASD for
Production SAM with a pre-formatted sheet for easy and fast OB Generation processes
Production OB Database - has all worked out OB’s sorted by Month wise
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Efficiency Database - here the Factory/Style/Product Line wise/Product category wise the
production run efficiencies are generated and stored in one Excel sheet
Sam Comparison Chart - it’s a folder containing compared factory operation sequence
against the CIED SAM values
Factory Planning Report - has updated planning report generated and stored in the Excel
Sheet this is for production style follow up and the work priority check
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PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order. It is an excel format which has the
details about confirmed styles, orders quantity and delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM
is sent by the buyer. Then the costing is done again and it is very tight to BOM. The Product
Development department has to hand over the samples to the concerned production
merchants to carry over.
Confirmed Program Sheet
As the bulk GSS and BOM are received, costing for bulk is done and to send the same in a
format called CPS. This includes all the details about product like fabric details with price,
delivery details and mode and Time & Action (T&A) plan of that style.
Quantity Indication
Once orders are confirmed, management is given an indication of the new order, import &
export dept to plan for production & spacing, for that details like style no, color ways, SAM,
order quantity per color way, delivery date, and mode of delivery have to be given to the
factory.
Time & Action Plan
This is the plan through which the exit dates of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M,
yellow tag, green tag, advertisement sample & shipment sample) are committed to buyer to
meet the delivery required by them. So, merchandisers have to work backward & give the
dates for sample exit. Automatic back scheduling is being done with the help of the software
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From the given details we can have the idea to give dates & will change time to time for
different cases:-
 Country: - 35 days back from Delivery Date.

 Factory: - 6 days for sea-shipment and 2 days for air shipment.
 Production Date: - 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew program and 45
days for an over date program.
 Production exit date: - 12days after Production Date.
 Revised Production exit date:-20 days after Production Exit Date
 Proto Samples Exit date:-10 days after order received.
 PP meeting: - 15 days after order received.
Order Registration
Software called Business Management Centre (in house development) is used. All the details
about all the orders from sampling to the shipment and all the data/ status required can be
immediately seen from it.
Fabric booking
It includes arranging material required. Order the fabric which is required for that particular
order based on yield yardage received from CAD/CAM. Since Ambattur Clothing Ltd is
dealing with nominated suppliers, FOC (fabric order confirmation) about the fabric quantity
to the mills which should be cross checked and confirmed to the mill by the department and
then have to follow up, cross check some of the internal procedures like Material Required
Chart (MRC), Raw Material Order (RMO), from the mills and purchase order (PO). While
ordering the fabric for bulk, should specify the quantity and delivery of tailoring / sample
yardages (for making the samples).
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Trims Ordering
Trims like interlining, labels, tags, buttons, price tags and packing materials to the concerned
purchase department through MRC’s. The MRC is raised by PPC (production & planning co-
ordination) and we have to overview the internal procedures from suppliers and PO’s.
ELECTRONIC DATA PROCESSING
EDP is the main hardware maintenance and software development and maintenance
department. This department facilitates all the IT needs in the various working procedures of
ACL. This department is divided into two parts.
EDP
HARDWARE SOFTWARE
This department is functioning from 1997 in ACL. All the factories of ACL are connected by
fiber optic cable through switches, and LAN. This department has developed many
software’s and from 1997 onwards they started developing an ERP (Enterprise Resource
Planning) software which links all the departments of ACL. The ERP software is named as
“GARNET”. And this department made a break through in ACL’s and Chennai’s garment
industries history by developing Ambattur Sewing Data (ASD), which is time study software
similar to GSD (General Sewing Data).
39
MIS
An MIS is also present linked with Garnet which generates reports of efficiency and profit
and loss, which is viewed by
MIS
B wing Factories SP wing Factories
(B1, B2, B9, B10, B12, B13, B15) (SP 10/8, SP 56,)
(Mr. Behram Director Production) (Mr. Dariaus Director Production)
General Manager of all factories General Manager of all factories
GARNET:
Garnet is an ERP software which was first developed in FoxPro in 1997, but later they
changed and developed the Front End in Visual Basic 6 and Back End in Server Query
Language (SQL) 2000. This software is in use for the past 10 years. The various modules of
the software are given below.
40
GARNET
BMC ASD Time& Action Accounts Commercial

Calendar
Production Management
System
MMS Payroll
BMC – BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CENTRE
This module is made for use in marketing, merchandising, purchase, production planning.
The various functions are like
1. Order registration
2. Material requirements chart for sending it to purchase department
3. Style master – all details about a new style
4. Delivery Schedule depending upon shipment
5. Bill of Material preparation – details of all things
6. Material Purchase Challan
7. Factory Allocation
8. Time & Action Follow up
9. Factory Planning
10. Reports of all departments to authorized personnel
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TIME & ACTION CALENDAR
This is used by merchandising department to make a time and action calendar after the order
confirmation.
The new style is feeded in the software and the shipment date according to purchase order is
also feeded. The software automatically generates the calendar according to back calculations
which are already in the system. The time and action is different and varies from buyer to
buyer and the merchandisers who are about to handle the style during the whole process of
manufacturing.
MMS – Material Management System
This software is made to be used in the Material Management Centre i.e. the warehouse of
ACL. The various functions of this module are
1. GIN – Goods Inward Note, generating Bar Code

2. No moving stock details
3. LRC – Lot Return Challan
4. Material sent to factory according to BOM
PAYROLL
This module in the software is mainly related to the Human Resource department. This
module keeps track of all the employees’ attendance, entry and exit time by punching there
cards in the identifier. And based on the reports generated by the payroll module the salary
for the month of an employee is decided.
PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
This module is used in factories where all the production related activities take place. The
features of the software are
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1. Bar Code sticker preparation for bundles according to Operation Breakdown.

2. Cutting efficiency and quantity of cutting done per day
3. Cutting Issue – the fabric issued for cutting
4. Production reports
5. Daily production status
6. Style information
7. Man Machine ratio
8. Employee performance
9. SAM for Production
10. Factory Comparison
11. Packing bar code printing
12. Scanning barcodes
13. Details of un scanned bar codes
14. Factory/ style Efficiency
ASD – AMBATTUR SEWING DATA
This is an amazing break through in Indian garment manufacturer’s history this is

indigenously developed time study software. It took the EDP department with the help of
CIED almost 6 months to develop this software with lot of case studies and research. This is
very much similar to the software’s that are available in market. And the best part is ACL
didn’t have to pay huge amounts to buy the software neither they need to pay and other
company for its maintenance.
The functions performed by the software are
1. Operation Breakdown
2. Time study based on PMTS
3. SAM of operation based on PMTS
COMMERCIAL
This module is mainly to deal with all the Exports and Imports which are taking place in
ACL. The good which being imported like fabric, trims, etc. the tax to be paid the people
related to be contacted etc.
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ACCOUNTS
This module is for accounts department for keep record of all the transactions which are
taking place in ACL. Preparing balance sheet and profit and loss issues.
SP-53
Introduction
 ACL SP-53 unit started in the year 1998.

 Originally initiated with 2 line factory.
 Manufacturer of shirts for Tommy Hilfiger.
 Production capacity 10,000 pieces/month.
 Certified – ISO 9000 in Jan 1998.
 Workforce is around 1200.
Major Brands
 ANN TAYLOR
 BANANA REPUBLIC
 JJILL
 BASSPRO
 EDDIE BAUER
 KOHLS
 PHLIP VAN HESUEN
 LEVIS
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Total Area and Department wise Area of Facility
Particulars Square. Feet
Sewing (Ground Floor) 12500
Finishing and Packaging 8400
Sewing (First Floor) 12500
Cutting (Second Floor) 12500
Embroidery 2400
Canteen 6000
Toilets 3200
Office Area 2070
Total Built-up Area 62820
Fact Sheet of ACL – SP 53
Address Ambattur Clothing Limited SP 53, Industrial Estate, Ambattur

Chennai-600 058
Contact No 044-26252562
Fax No 044-26250249
License No TVR / 5906
Total Built up area 66165 sq.ft
General Manager Manohar K Babu
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Factory Manager Ananad Raj.B
Production Manager Mani.T
No of sewing line 8
No of machines 440 approx
No of First aid boxes 12
No of fire extinguisher 84
No of fire exits 22
No of emergency lights 32
No of fire alarms 31
No of first aid trained 10% of strength

personnel
No of CC Cameras 27
No of trained fire fighters 5% of Strength
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Organizational Chart
MANAGING
MANAGING DIRECTOR
DIRECTOR
GENERAL
GENERAL PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION MANAGER
MANAGER
FACTORY
FACTORY MANAGER
MANAGER
MANAGEMENT
MANAGEMENT PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION ADMINISTRATION
ADMINISTRATION QUALITY
QUALITY STORES
STORES MAINTAINENCE
MAINTAINENCE
TRAINEE
TRAINEE MANAGER
MANAGER CONTROL
CONTROL
CUTTING
CUTTING KAJA
KAJA CHECKING
CHECKING PACKAGING
PACKAGING Q.C
Q.C MECHANICS
MECHANICSAND
AND
BUTTON
BUTTON TRAINEES
TRAINEES ELECTRICIANS
ELECTRICIANS
TRIMMING
TRIMMING IRONING
SEWING
SEWING
PERSONNEL
PERSONNEL KEEPERS
KEEPERS
C.SUPER
C.SUPER K.J.SUPE
K.J.SUPE I.SUPER
I.SUPER DEPARTMENT
DEPARTMENT AND
AND
VISOR
VISOR RVISOR
RVISOR VISOR
VISOR HELPERS
HELPERS
S.SUPER
S.SUPER FINAL P.SUPER
P.SUPER
VISOR
VISOR CHECKER VISOR
VISOR
C.HELPERS
C.HELPERS K.J.HELPER
K.J.HELPER
I.HELPERS
I.HELPERS
SS
S.HELPERS
S.HELPERS P.HELPERS
P.HELPERS
FLOW CHART FOR PRODUCTION
GSS OR TECH PAC
K
MAKING PATTERN
SAMPLING
BUYER COMMENTS
PRE PRODUCTION
SAMPLE
BUYER COMMENTS
SEALOR OR FIT
SAMPLE
BUYER COMMENTS
SIZE SET SAMPLE
BUYER QC REVIEW
PRE PRODUCTION MEETING (PM,

APM, GM, FM, BUYER, IE)
CUTTING DEPT
OB
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PRODUCTION
WASHING
K.J BUTTON
TRIMMING
CHECKING
STAIN REMOVAL
THREAD SUCK
PRESSING ARMHOLE
FRONT AND
VISUAL CHECKING BACK
POLY BAG CLOSE PACKING FOLDING
PASTE STICKERS
RATIO
SHIPMENT
MAKE CARTON CLOSE CARTON
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SUB-STORE DEPARTMENT
Distribution of trims like buttons threads, labels etc, in the sewing line was being controlled
and monitored by the sub-store department, it also acted as the temporary storage . Following
is the process flow of how trims are being distributed in SP 53(ACL):
1. BOM status: Merchandiser hands over a copy of Bill of Material to the stores
department and yet another copy to the MMC as per the production orders. This is to
avoid any kind of confusion arising regarding the quantity of trims.
2. Requirement: once style to be produced in the factory is decided the merchandiser

sends a requirement chart to the stores for them to develop a prior knowledge of the
trim requirement of that particular style, as per PO.
3. Balance report: balance report is produced by the factory it contains all the details
about the balance trims per style that are yet to be sent to the in house stores. It is a
updated with the reception of every lot and the same is sent to the MS for verification.
4. Received details: received details are also produced by the substore stores
department, it contains the details of the trims that factory has already received; this is
also updated every time the lot was received.
5. Balance mail reports: preparation of the balance report was followed by mailing the
same to the MMC, to keep them updated with the details and stock in house.
6. Swatch card approval: a swatch card is produced on the receipt of the first lot of the
trims for a particular style so that it can be referred to at any time. This swatch card is
sent to merchandiser for his approval. After the approval is received only then are the
trims issued to the line.
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7. Swatch card line issue: after the swatch card is being approved by the merchandiser,
it is issued to the line supervisor for the display of all the trims that will be used in the
style that will be running in a particular line.
8. Sample issues: sample is then followed for the production of the jumping size sets.
These trims are called sample trims. They are issued to the line supervisor.
9. Trim issues and Thread issues: once the actual production commences trims and
threads are issued to the main line, the quantity for one day is issued at a time.
10. Stationary system follow: all the stationary items like pen a pencil etc are also kept a
track of in the similar manners as it is done for trims.
11. Needle issued: needles are also stated in the swatch card and are issued to the line in
the similar manner, in case of replacement needles are required in the case of broken
or blunt needle, new needle is issued only once the broken needle or blunt needle with
all its part is presented to the stores department.
12. Needle system follows: all the details about the received stock and the used stock of
needle is maintained to avoid any kind of errors.
13. Lot closing manuals: once the styles completely moves out of the line a lot closing
stock is sent to the MMC along with the balance left over items. In case there is no
balance left or the consumption of the trims are found to more than the estimated,
substore department produces reasons for the same to the MS during lot closing. Even
in the case of lesser consumption, reason for the same is presented to the MS, so that
none of the garment has any trims or operation missing.
14. Lot transfer: in case due to change in plans it a style instead of getting produced in
the specified factory as earlier is transferred to some other unit.
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The lot transfer follow up is raised which consist of all the details about trims that are
available in the sub store of first factory.
In total there are 5 employees under one head of sub-store trimming department. For separate
lines issuing of the trims happens in different windows. A record is maintained of how many
trims are issued per day.
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CUTTING DEPARTMENT
About Cutting Department
Cutting section is the most important part of a garment industry, as any defects during cutting
can result in immense loss. Cutting for the unit happens in the room on second floor. Fabric
storage of the unit is also within the cutting room. 99% of the order they received is of woven
hence, mostly woven fabrics are being cut over here. The total cutting room capacity is of
5000 tops for SP 53. There are total numbers of 49 operators in the whole cutting room.
Machines and fixtures of cutting room:
Since the cutting of the fabric for this unit takes place in one room, all the machines are
almost provided that is required. Only the fabric that is to be cut for bias bound is cut in b12
unit with special cutting machine
For spreading there are two automatic spreaders with end cutter.
There are following equipments for cutting:
4 band knives
9 straight knives
No. of fusing machine: 3.
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Processes in cutting room
First, Package file is sent to the factory for production, package file consist every detail about
a particular style, it is handed along with a sample garment, which is produced in the
sampling department. Fabric is received from SP76 (Material Management Centre) in roll
form. Planning is done depending upon the purchase order from the buyer. Cutting starts with
the production samples being cut first (jumping size sets- extremes and basic sizes). Patterns
are prepared in the CAD/CAM department of Head office. Markers are also planned there.
Once the jumping size sets are produced the internal QA and buyer QA check these samples
for correct measurement. This is followed by PP meeting.
The purpose of PP (Pre Production) meeting is to communicate what is acceptable and what
is not, especially the fabric defect which has been sent by the MMC on the defect card. This
meeting is attended by factory managers, production manager, internal Quality manager,
R&D quality manager, production merchandiser, R&D Executive, I.E personnel and
supervisors. After this garments are given for making the jumping size set i.e in sizes of 8,
12, 16 etc. in production sampling section. These garments are analyzed for any requirement
in change of patterns. Then correct patterns are obtained. After reception of changed pattern
are received then at least two sets of all the sizes are being produced (done in sampling
department).
Cutting chart is produced depending upon the PO, it consist of size ratio and requirement of
material. As per the PO (Purchases order) markers will be planned in the head office and
will be forwarded to the factory through outlook express. General efficiency of marker ranges
from 75% to 85%. Special precautions are taken depending upon the type of fabric. After
spreading is over, a spreading quality report is produced.
Cutting is followed by spreading ie manual cutting is carried out here. For checks and striped
fabrics there are pinning table, where the patterns are cut in blocks, their stripes or checks are
matched. Cutting cut quality report is produced after cutting, if the report is okay, patterns are
54
sent to the sewing floor other wise the patterns are asked for revision or in some cases
rejected.
Cutting is followed by sorting of garment pieces, fixing stickers on the pieces depending
upon the layer they belong to, and finally bundling of all the pieces as per their operation
sequence and tying the bundle tickets.
Kinds of fabric being cut:
There are mainly three kinds of fabric that are cut:
-shell
-lining
-interlining
Different patterns are produced for various rolls depending upon their shrinkage percentage.
After the number of patterns and types are fixed the bill of material are produced. After the
BOM is received then all the materials are to be received from warehouse.
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SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department of both the units is separate. Bundles from the cutting department come
from the cutting room by lift. Cutting challan is issued depending on the tickets that are
numbered, and tied. Pre-sorting report is then produced which sorts out similar style. A
proper line balancing is done under supervisor’s guidance. SAM of the garments is decided
by IED. Layout generally followed depending on the style.
Process sequence of the sewing department:
56
Once the package file is received the factory IE department starts working on the most
feasible OB (operation breakdown). This can even vary from the OB given by the CIED,
depending upon the machines available. After operation break down is made line layout is
being prepared. In most of the cases the single line layout is prepared. As per the line layout
machine requirement chart is produced, it also depends upon the target per day, per machine.
Finally once the line is set supervisor allocates operator as per skill. Skill matrix is not
updated here instead of that production study is carried out for each operator.
Production commences once all these activities are over. There are regular quality assurance
points at the end of each and every line where 100% inspection takes place.
Proper record of the broken needles is kept to ensure the product safety.
Daily and hourly achievement of each and every subassembly of a particular garment is kept
track of.
All these reports are being updated on the system for the higher official’s knowledge.
There are 8 lines in total in 2 floors. The ground floor has 4 lines and the first floor has
another 4 lines with an approx of 50 machines in each line. Each line consists of 50 operators,
10 helpers in approx, 1 line wrier and 1 mechanic.
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Processes in the Finishing Department
Buttoning, Riveting: Once the garments enter the finishing line either they would be
washable or non washable bulk. In both the cases the buttoning is always left out. Buttoning
is done after washing so as to avoid any kind of button loss etc. Buttoning of the garment is
not done while they are inline, except for some times dummy buttons are attached to them,
which has to be removed once they are washed. So buttoning, riveting is done in the finishing
department.
Shanking: Shanking is done to button to provide them strength, so that when fastened it does
not form any kinds of puckers, to secure the button it is shanked using the shanking threads
which are elastic in nature.
Trimming: Since there is no prior trimming of extra threads in the assembly line so as to
avoid wastage of production time. Trimming should be done in the finishing.
Checking: Deliberately checking is kept after trimming so as to check defects like

untrimmed threads as well. 100 percent inspection happens at this stage.
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Stain removing: Down the production line, there are chances of garments getting dirty due
to bad handle, oil stains or pencil stains. These can be removed. Stain removing happens for
100% of the garments. Following stain removing agents are used generally to remove the
stains:
1. Carbon tetra chloride for dust stains.

2. Ala: used in mild garment.
3. Mild acid for running dust stains.
Spot lifter for removal of oil stains (contents are tri chloro ethylene, per chloro ethylene,
silica and propene)
Measurement checking: It is one of the very important checks, which is why 100%
measurement checking is carried out.
Final checking: A 100% final checking is done before packing so as to remove any chance
of even a single defective passing through the line.
Hand tag attachments: Hand tags are attached to only defect free garments which have
passed through all the above stages of checking. There are tagging guns which are being
used. Gun tagging machines are also available.
Attaching sensor tag: All the garments have sensor tags except for the catalogue garments.
Different brands have different kinds of sensor tags attached to the garments. The placement
of the sensor tags have to be on correct location. Incorrect placement comes for a major
defect.
Ironing and folding: Once all the tags are being attached to the garments they become ready
for packing and folding. To remove any kind of creases that may creep in during subsequent
processes the garments are ironed, and then finally folded as per the required measurement
59
and specification given by the buyer. Final ironing is done during which garments are folded.
There are two type of packing done
1. Folding and packing

2. Hanging and packing
In folding and packing the garments are folded during ironing with various papers folded
along various folds of the garment to avoid them from getting creased at the folded areas.
Buttons are covered with foam generally for the light shade garments, or for the ones having
metallic trims. Hygroscopic papers are used to absorb any kind of moisture if present in the
garment. All the packing and folding done is as per buyer’s specification. Polythene bags are
ordered depending upon the size to which that particular pattern will fit.
In case of hanging and packing the garments are packed on hangers and then poly put in
poly bag which again as per buyer’s requirement. The cartons contain elastic tied to both the
ends of the carton and then the hangers are hung on to that elastic.
Poly bag sealing: Folded garments are passed through the needle detector to check for any
traces of broken needles or any other kinds of harmful metals. This garment will then go to
the poly bag sealing area, where the garments are sealed in poly bags. All the poly bags are
recyclable and contain barcodes on them depending upon the PO, style and size of garments.
All the poly bags are scanned for the details of PO the garment contained in it belongs to.
Poly bag contains a barcode, which contains information regarding number of garments in
that particular carton, in which this garment will go.
Carton packing: Carton’s size and shape is taken as per buyer’s specifications, the capacity
of the carton is also decided before hand. Carton is weighed before loading and after loading.
As per the Purchase Order the garments are then packed in the cartons, with required size and
country garment in one carton. The carton’s dimensions are also specified by the buyer. Even
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cartons contain a barcode which in turn is scanned. All the cartons of a particular PO are
scanned. Following is the information which is contained on the Cartons
Details Printed on the Package Cover
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN SHIP TO:
COLOR NAME: PO:
GROSS WEIGHT: SIZE:
NET WEIGHT: QNTY:
CARTON DIMENSION: PIECES:
CTN# ______________________ OF___________________________
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QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT
Quality control is a very essential part of the garment industry, as today’s customer is well
aware of his requirements and demands what he pays for.
There are two quality control departments within the factory:
1. Pre production quality control

2. For production
Quality control for pre production department:
Once the package file is received, fabric is segregated according to the shrinkage. Jumping
size sets are prepared (S, M, and L). Measurement as per spec is being checked by this
department, any kinds of amendments are checked by the pre production quality control
department.
Garments approved by the pre production are first sent to the buyer’s QA for inspection and
for his feed back. Production starts only after buyer’s approval and then a PP meeting is
conducted. Various points discussed during PP meeting are:
1. All the check points are decided in all the departments, i.e. cutting sewing, finishing
departments.
2. Machine availability is being checked for; list of non working machine is kept in
mind.
Production of 4000 pcs is followed by PP meeting, out of which 32 pieces are offered to the
external QA team. All the managers meet up with various problems and respective solutions
are being found out. Problems regarding various kinds of defect and possible ways of
reducing them are discussed.
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Internal QA’s will check for any kinds of difference in the measurements before and after
wash.
They follow 0-7 system for inline quality checking. Inline quality checker will visit each and
every operator every hour a day. On each visit 7 pieces of that operator’s job will be
examined. The results are recorded on the inline quality audit report.
Previous operations are not to be inspected at this stage.
The checker will examine garments/parts that have already been sewn prior to his/her arrival.
Under no circumstances must the checker examine pieces that have just been sewn whilst
standing next to the operator.
The sequence of his/her visits is to be made randomly-no set routine must be followed.
During the audit of one operator, obvious faults that are found which are created by previous
operations, then these are not to be ignored but the supervisor is to be informed so that the
operator and operation can be investigated.
Quality checkers in finishing departments are placed after trimming and buttoning operation,
to check out for any defect coming from any of the previous operation and any kinds of wash
defects in case of wash order garments.
These checkers primarily constitutes primary checking. This is followed by measurement

checking for all the garments and this in turn is followed by final checking, before the
internal inspection.
Buyer inspection is preceded by
1. Internal inspection &

2. R & D inspection
Both the above inspection is carried out by Acceptance Sampling Method, and for both the
above inspection AQL maintained is 2.5.
63
Internal inspection is carried out by the internal quality control department of the factory.
Only after garments clear internal inspection, can they go for R & D inspection.
R & D inspection is like a final count down in most of the Purchase Orders cases, as what R
& D clears is always acceptable by buyers.
Other than Final R&D inspection, R&D interim inspection is also carried out; in this
garments are picked from the end of the line and looked for defects.
Daily defect audit summary sheets of end line checkers are updated which can be viewed by
the GM and other higher officials of the factory.
Quality Parameters:
• The cutting, sewing inline reports are recorded with actual reports can be classified
and focus to by line supervisor and QC to control immediately on hourly basis.
• All the checkers enter actual defects on their reports and same thing communicate
their superiors immediately.
• Sewing alterations are done by operator as well as possible and also advised operator
to produce defect less garments to gain profit for our factory
• All the employees have their own discipline to have caps, hand gloves, and also avoid
using turmeric powder on hands.
• All the operators handle the garments neat and clean to avoid stains and dead creases.
• All the employees have food and snacks only at canteen not in the working place.
• The mechanics attend machine faults, puckering, needle breakages, skip stitches and
broken stitches immediately solved to avoid production loses, time lose and poor
quality mixed up in bulk
• KB section operators avoid garment accumulation to avoid dead crease mark.
• Finishing section workers keep garment flow from trimming to packing as neat and
clean handling to avoid stains , dead crease mark and defected garments are mixed up
into good garments
64
AQL FOR EACH BUYER:
ESPRIT:
Visual Audit Acceptance at AQL 1.0
Lot Size Sample Pcs P/F
1 to 25 5 0
26-50 5 0
51-150 5 0
151-280 13 0
281-500 20 0
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 4
Measurement Audit Level – 1 AQL 2.5
Lot Mixed Colors S.Size Pass/Fail
1 color 20 1/2
2 colors 32 2/3
3 colors 50 3/4
4 colors 80 5/6
>5 colors 125 7/8
Five Size above 32 PCs Measurement Audit Per Colors
Carton Audit:
05. Withdraw 5 pieces in different size out of 5 Boxes.
13. Withdraw 4 pieces/clr in different sizes out of 4 Boxes.
65
20. Withdraw 5 pcs/clr in different size out of 4 Boxes.
32. Withdraw 2 different prepacks/color out of different out of different boxes.
KOHL’S
Visual Audit level at AQL 2.5
Lot Size Sample Pcs P/F
9-150 20 2
151-280 32 3
281-500 50 4
501-1200 80 6
1201-3200 125 8
3201-10000 200 11
10001-35000 315 15
35001-150000 500 22
150001-500000 500 22
1500001-over 500 22
Measurement Audit Level – 1 AQL 2.5
1 color 20 1/2
2 colors 32 2/3
3 colors 50 3/4
4 colors 80 5/6
>5 colors 125 7/8
66
Five Size above 32 PCs Measurement Audit Per Colors
Carton Audit:
No of Cartons S.Carton Pass/Fail
1-15 5 0/1
16-50 8 0/1
51-150 20 0/1
151-500 50 1/2
501-1200 80 ½
1201 up 125 2/3
ANN TAYLOR
Single Sampling Plan for Visual Audit
Lot Size By Sample Size Major Minor

Color
Pass Fail Pass Fail
0-280 13 0 1 3 4
281-500 20 1 2 5 6
501-1200 32 2 3 7 8
1201-3200 50 3 4 10 11
3201-10000 80 5 6 14 15
67
10001-35000 125 7 8 21 22
35001 & Above 200 10 11 32 33
Carton Audit:
No of Cartons in No of Cartons From Packing Pass Packing Fail

Shipment Which To Be
Selected
3-14 3 0 1
16-25 5 0 1
26-50 8 0 1
51-90 13 0 1
91-150 20 0 1
151-280 32 0 1
281-500 50 0 1
501-1200 80 0 1
1201-Above 125 0 1
LEVI’S
Visual Audit AQL 2.5
No of Carton Lot Size SAMPLE Units Audited Accept Reject

PC’s Per Carton
3 91-150 20 7 1 2
7 151-200 32 5 2 3
10 201-500 50 5 3 4
16 501-1200 80 5 5 6
25 1201-3200 125 5 7 8
68
40 3201-10000 200 5 10 11
63 10001-35000 315 5 14 15
BR
Visual Audit Level 1 AQL 2.5
Lot Size Sample Size Pass Fail
Major Minor
0-500 20 1 1 2
501-1200 32 2 2 3
1201-3200 50 3 3 4
3201-10000 80 5 5 6
10001-35000 125 7 7 8
35001-Above 200 10 10 1
1 colours 20 ½
2 colours 32 2/3
3 colours 50 ¾
4 colours 80 5/6
69
5 colours 80 5/6
>5 colours 125 7/8
Five Size Above 32 PCs Measurement Audit per Colour
Carton Audit
No of Cartons S.Carton Pass/Fail
1-15 5 0/1
16-50 8 0/1
51-150 20 0/1
151-500 50 1/2
501-1200 125 2/3
Needle Detection Audit for Japan Orders
Lot Size Sample Size
0-500 60
501-1200 96
1201-3200 150
3201-Above 240
J JILL and TALBOTS
Visual Audit Level 2 AQL 2.5
Lot Size Sample Size Accept Reject
51-90 8 0 1
91-150 13 0 2
70
151-250 20 0 3
251-500 32 1 4
501-1200 50 2 5
1201-3200 80 3 7
3201-10000 125 5 9
10001-35000 200 7 11
Measurement Audit AQL 4.0
Lot size Sample Size Accept Reject
26-50 3 0 1
51-90 5 0 1
91-150 8 0 1
151-280 13 1 2
281-500 13 1 2
501-1200 20 2 3
1201-3200 20 2 3
3201-10000 32 3 4
10001-35000 32 5 4
35001-150000 50 5 6
Carton Audit AQL 1.5
Total Cartons Sample Accept Reject
5-15 3 0 1
15-50 5 0 1
51-150 8 0 1
151-500 13 0 2
501-1200 20 1 2
1201-3200 32 1 2
71
HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT
HR department of the factory comes under the centralized HR department.
72
Primary function of HR department is the recruitment of the operators. Middle and higher
level managers are recruited by the HR department in E2.
Recruitment of operators can be done through advertisement, gate recruitment or through the
reference of other operators.
Experienced operators after recruitment are given two days trial, to check out whether the
operators are up to the mark or not.
 Recruitment campaign is conducted by HR department to attract various people from

different villages. In these campaigns the company’s policies are put in front of the
workers.
 Distribution of operator’s salary also lies with the HR department. Salary is
distributed on the monthly basis for all the operators.
Incentives are given on the basis of their attendance. For 100% of attendance 17.5% of bonus
is given.
Extra transport facility is being provided to the operators. HRA is fixed for all operators.
Dearness Allowance changes as per the market prices.
Yearly bonus of 20% is given to the operators generally during Diwali. Salary (basic) is
revised every year in the month of April.
Following meetings are conducted within a period of three months:
 Workers committee meeting

 Canteen committee meeting
 Grievance committee meeting
 Health and safety meeting
 Sexual harassment meeting
All the meetings are conducted in presence of all operators.
Unions are not permitted.
Overtime of 1 hour permitted over 8 hours of shift.
73
Other activities like safety week celebration are also organized by the HR department
Health camps are also been organized where free check ups are conducted like haemoglobin,
eye etc. Grade system of operators is also followed, depending upon their performance.
Certifications:
 Social Accountability 8000

 WRAP
 Safety Award Winner from Government of Tamil Nadu.
Age factor of the Employees in the Unit
74
70%
60%
50%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
18-25 yrs 35-45 yrs
Education Level
80%
70%
60%
50%
40%
NO OF EMPLOYEES
30%
20%
10%
0%
0-10th 10th- 12th Degree PG
75
PROCTECTVE GAURDS USED BY THE EMPLOYEES
Needle Guard
To ensure safety of employees the management provides all safety gadgets like needle guard
for the sewing operators for an accident free environment.
Eye guard
For the Kaja Button operators eye guard is provided so that the button or the broken pieces of
button does not affect eyes.
76
Respirators
For Oil Stain removers respirators are provided so that the chemicals in the solution do not
cause any breathing problems to the employees.
Mask
Overlock operators wear Eye Guard and Mask so that the cut fabric bits and pieces does not
affect eyes and cause breathing problems.
77
Ear Muff
Embroidery Machine workers wear Ear muffs so that the noise from the machine does not
cause any hearing problems.
COMMITTEES AND WELFARE
Canteen
In house canteen has been provided in staggered timings for the convenience of the
employees.
78
Common Crèche
Crèche facility is offered to the employees children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age.
Certified and well trained people in child care attend to the children. The center also provides
periodic health checkups for the children.
Common Welfare Centre
The organization has its medical centre located in SP 24 which has an In-house medical
practitioner, with renowned specialists visiting regularly. The service with renowned
specialists visits regularly.
79
PROJECT ON “TO MAINTAIN PRODUCTIVITY DURING ABSENTEEISM”
AIM:
To maintain the productivity through multiskilling of operators. Operators who have more
SAM production ie idle for more time and their skill matrix match for the particular operation
can be used as a multi-skilled operator for the operator absent that day.
OBJECTIVES:
The main objective of the project is to maintain the productivity of a line during absenteeism
by working on the following aspects:
 Finding the operators who absent themselves more often.

 Line Balancing Theoretically.
 Calculating the SAM Production, minutes required per hr and minutes idle per hour.
 Making the operators chosen multiskilled for the required operation.
METHODOLOGY:
 We analyzed that absenteeism was a major problem in the unit and it decreased the
productivity of the unit.
 For the Style 244844 in Line A the operators who absent themselves more often in a
month were recorded
 Then the line was balanced theoretically to find the SAM Production, Minutes Idle
per hour and Minutes required per hour of the operators.
 Using the skill matrix of the operators required is chosen for the absent operators.
 Substituting these operators with their efficiency for the necessary operations with the
idle minutes per hour the production is calculated.
 Increase in productivity is also calculated.
80
PROJECT BRIEF:
The project is basically on “To Maintain Productivity during Absenteeism”, usually only the
trainees are appointed for absent operatons. But if we appoint an idle operator with required
efficiency she can give better productivity and when the wip in her operation increases
which can be implemented by a sensor ar alarm r red flag she can attend to her own operation
and can return to the absentee operation after few minutes.
As explained earlier, owing to huge domestic demands in branded garments, ACL is

undergoing a rapid growth, wherein, to maintain the productivity during absenteeism is of
utmost urgency.
ACL emphasizes a lot on adopting a world class manufacturing concept in all its production
units and evolving with the latest techniques and production concepts. This is all done to
ensure a very smooth functioning of the factories and to create an efficient work environment
for all its employees.
The project undertaken at ACL totally focused on allotting substitute operators whose idle
time is more in place operations where the operators are absent frequently considering the
skill matrix.
Then the productions of the operators are calculated in regards to their efficiency and idle
time. And the productivity percentage is noted in comparison to the original operator and the
substitute operator
Thus the idle time of the operators is efficiently utilized for the operations where the
operators are absent.
81
Project study was done in Line A, for the style 244844. And the absenteeism record for the
same line for the month of June is analyzed which was 13%
For each day, the absentees and the operation they are assigned to do are recorded. The
operators who absent themselves often i.e. more than once are taken.
Sl.No Operator Operation Machine
1 Anu Radha 3t o/l shell side seam 3O/L
2 Chandra Kumari Attach big ruffle to SNLS

body
3 Kavitha Make front Dart SNLS
4 Revathi 3t o/l lining zipper 3O/L

seam
5 Fathima 3t o/l front a/h 3O/L
6 Valarmathi baby hem 2 centre SNLS

small ruffle
Now an alternate step is taken by assigning multi-skilled operators for these operations.
These multi-skilled operators are ordinary operators picked best suited for the job and given
special training in order to achieve the task when given. This will help in the reduction of
time wastage and increase productivity.
Following are the operators chosen whose SAM is less and has more than 25 minutes wasted
per hour which can be effectively utilized. And the operators who are absent more often are
indicated. So these operators are eliminated as substitutes.
Sl.No Multi-skilled operator Machine Minutes Idle/ hr
1 Jancy 3o/l 34.08
2 Ganga 3o/l 25.35
3 Muneswari 3o/l 44.25
4 Vaishali Snls 41.1
5 Ashwini Snls 41.1
82
6 Alice Mary 3o/l 34.17
7 Anu Radha 3o/l 34.17
8 Ammu e/c 34.8
9 Desam Snls 34.06
10 Revathi 3o/l 34.8
11 Kala Snls 29.13
12 Uma Devi Snls 29.13
13 Deepika Snls 53.7
14 Priya. S Snls 41.1
15 Lakshmi Snls 34.80
16 Kumari Snls 31.65
17 Valarmathi Snls 41.1
18 Sumathi Snls 25.98
19 Devaki Snls 34.80
The operators marked in bold are removed based on the reason that they are listed in the
frequently absent operators record.
Therefore eliminating them, the other operators who can be substitutes for the frequently
absent operators.
Sl.No Multi-skilled operator Machine Minutes Idle/ hr
1 Jancy 3o/l 34.08
2 Ganga 3o/l 25.35
3 Muneswari 3o/l 44.25
4 Vaishali Snls 41.1
5 Ashwini Snls 41.1
6 Alice Mary 3o/l 34.17
7 Ammu e/c 34.8
83
8 Desam Snls 34.06
9 Kala Snls 29.13
10 Uma Devi Snls 29.13
11 Deepika Snls 53.7
12 Priya. S Snls 41.1
13 Lakshmi Snls 34.80
14 Kumari Snls 31.65
15 Sumathi Snls 25.98
16 Devaki Snls 34.80
The skill matrix of these operators for the required operations:
Sl. Operator Operation Operation Operation Operation Operation Operation

N 1 2 3 4 5 6
o
1 Jancy Attach Attach Dart Back label Shoulder

bind to panel to make make and attach
sleeve body snls 27.79% attach 27.79%
20.18% 43.44% 27.79%
2 Ganga Zipper Shoulder Shoulder

seam attach topstitch
front and 27.67% 24.74%
back 3t
o/l
43.41%
3 Muneswar Front and Shoulder

i back top stitch
sleeve 54.17 %
close
54.17%
4 Vaishali Floater
5 Ashwini Top stitch Pick attach Dart Shoulder

a/h 50.05% make top stitch
61.35% 41.57% 33.81
6 Alice Top stitch Sleeve Collar
84
Mary a/h bond close

76.48% attach by 64.64%
folder
34.02%
7 Ammu Shoulder Shoulder

topstitch attach
46.32% 43.65%
8 Desam Back yoke

topstitch
42.21%
9 Kala Cuff Bottom Panel Back yoke Panel hem

attach with tape attach attach to topstitch snls
sleeve close body snls 31.17% 43.35%
placket 31.54% 47.67%
making
38.49%
10 Deepika Loop Collar

making close
48.65% 39.23%
11 Priya. S Gather Loop

seam hem making
27.8% 34.77%
12 Lakshmi Dart Button side seam Kaja

make hole 3t o/l placket
36.77% placket 42.42% 31.58%
attach
34.50%
13 Sumathi Cuff Top stitch Zipper

attaching cuff attach
with 35.17% front and
sleeve back
placket 36.77%
making
61.34%
14 Devaki Serge Topstitch Sleeve Front tape

armhole armhole placket attach snls
41.61% 78.63% attach and and dnls
tack 41.61%
69.61%
85
The operations marked in bold are the required operations to be skilled with the respective
operators.
Sufficient training is given to these operators to make them skilled
Efficiency of the operators for the operations:
Sl.No Operator Operation SAM Machine Multi-skilled

Operator
assigned
1 Anu Radha 3t o/l shell 0.41 3O/L Lakshmi

side seam 42.42%
65.17%
2 Chandra Attach big 0.7 SNLS Jancy 43.42%,

Kumari ruffle to body Kala 47.67%
68.80%
3 Kavitha Make front 0.49 SNLS Ashwini

57.32% Dart 41.57%, Jancy
27.79%,
Lakshmi36.57%
4 Revathi 3t o/l lining 0.4 3O/L Ganga43.41%

55.32% zipper seam
5 Fathima 3t o/l front 0.55 3O/L Devaki 41.61%

59.26% a/h
6 Valarmathi baby hem 2 0.3 SNLS Kala 43.55%

center small
66.89% ruffle
For a multi-skilled operator to be assigned for an operation, theoretical line balancing is done.
Now the operators can be alloted for the required operations. They do their respective
operations and their efficiency levels are recorded.
DAY 1:
86
Date No Operators Operatio SAM No of Skilled Skilled

n days Operators Operators
absent
22-06- 1 Anu 3t o/l 0.41 7 lakshmi

10 Radha shell side
seam
2 Chandra Attach 0.7 2 Jancy Kala

Kumari big ruffle
to body
3 Revathi 3t o/l 0.4 1 Ganga

lining
zipper
seam
4 Janaki Neck 0.7 1

Piping
closing
Efficiency% = (no of pieces produced*SAM *100)/( no of operators*60*working hours)
CASE 1:
Anu Radha is absent today for the operation 3t o/l shell side seam of SAM 0.41. If
Lakshmi is idle for 34.8 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 278 minutes in 1day which is
more than 4.5 hours. Lakshmi can do 3t o/l shell side seam operation and with an
efficiency of 42.42%. Therefore, she can give an output of 300 pcs in 4.5hrs. With proper
training she can give at least 20% increased output of 360 pcs in 4.5hrs.
CASE 2.1:
Chandra Kumari is absent today for the operation Attach big ruffle to body of SAM 0. If
Jancy is idle for 34.8 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 278 minutes in 1day which is more
than 4.5 hours. Jancy can do Attach big ruffle to body operation with an efficiency of
43.79%. Therefore, she can produce an output of 145pcs in 4.5hrs. With proper training she
can give at least 20% increased output of 174 pcs in 4.5hrs.
CASE 2.2:
87
Chandra Kumari is absent today for the operation Attach big ruffle to body of SAM 0.7.
If Kala is idle for 29.13 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 233 minutes in 1day which is
more than 3.8 hours. Kala can do Attach big ruffle to body operation with an efficiency of
47.67%. Therefore, she can produce an output of 160 pcs in 3.8hrs. With proper training she
can give at least 20% increased output of 192 pcs in 3.8hrs.
CASE 3:
Revathi is absent today for the operation 3t o/l lining zipper seam of SAM 0.4. If Ganga is
idle for 25.35 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 202 minutes in 1day which is more than
3.3 hours. Ganga can do 3t o/l lining zipper seam operation with an efficiency of 43.41%.
Therefore, she can produce an output of 220 pcs in 3.3hrs. With proper training she can give
at least 20% increased output of 264 pcs in 3.3hrs.
DAY 2:
Date No Operators Operation SAM No of Skilled Skilled

days Operators Operators
absent
23-06-10 1 Anu 3t o/l shell 0.41 8 lakshmi

Radha side seam 42.42%
2 Fathima 3t o/l front 0.55 1 Devaki Kala

a/h 41.61% 47.67%
3 Chandra Attach big 0.7 3 Jancy

Kumari ruffle to 43.42%
body
4 Kavitha Make front 0.49 1 Ashwini Lakshmi

Dart 41.57%
36.57%
CASE 1:
88
CASE 2.1:
Fathima is absent today for the operation 3t o/l front a/h of SAM 0.55. If Devaki is idle for
34.8 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 278 minutes in 1day which is more than 4.5 hours.
Devaki can do 3t o/l front a/h operation and with an efficiency of 41.61%. Therefore, she
can give an output of 211 pcs in 4.5 hrs. With proper training she can give at least 20%
increased output of 253 pcs in 4.5hrs.
CASE 2.2:
Fathima is absent today for the operation 3t o/l front a/h of SAM 0.55. If Kala is idle for
Kala can do 3t o/l front a/h operation and with an efficiency of 47.67%. Therefore, she can
give an output of 202 pcs in 4.5 hrs. With proper training she can give at least 20%
CASE 3:
Chandra Kumari is absent today for the operation Attach big ruffle to body of SAM 0.7.
If Jancy is idle for 34.8 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 278 minutes in 1day which is
more than 4.5 hours. Jancy can do Attach big ruffle to body operation with an efficiency
of 43.79%. Therefore, she can produce an output of 145pcs in 4.5hrs. With proper training
she can give at least 20% increased output of 174 pcs in 4.5hrs.
CASE 4:
Kavitha is absent today for the operation Make front dart of SAM 0.49. If Aishwini is idle
for 41.1 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 329 minutes in 1day which is more than 5.4
hours. Aishwini can do Make front dart operation with an efficiency of 41.57%. Therefore,
she can produce an output of 279 pcs in 5.4hrs. With proper training she can give at least
20% increased output of 335 pcs in 5.4hrs.
DAY 3:

absent
24-06-10 1 Kavitha Make front 0.49 2 Ashwini Lakshmi

Dart 41.57%
36.57%
89
CASE 1.1:
CASE 1.2:
Kavitha is absent today for the operation Make front dart of SAM 0.49. If Lakshmi is idle
hours. Lakshmi can do Make front dart operation with an efficiency of 36.57%. Therefore,
DAY 4:
Date No Operators Operation SAM No of days Skilled

absent Operators
25-06-10 1 Revathi 3t o/l lining 0.4 1 Ganga

zipper seam 43.41%
CASE 1:
DAY 5:
90
Date No Operators Operation SAM No of days Skilled

absent Operators
26-06-10 1 Revathi 3t o/l lining 0.4 2 Ganga

zipper seam 43.41%
2 Sumathi pleat making 0.36 1
CASE 1:
DAY 6:

absent
28-06-10 1 Fathima 3t o/l front 0.55 1 Devaki Kala

a/h 41.61% 47.67%
2 Anu 3t o/l shell 0.41 1 lakshmi

CASE 1.1:
Fathima is absent today for the operation 3t o/l front a/h of SAM 0.55. If Devaki is idle for
Devaki can do 3t o/l front a/h operation and with an efficiency of 41.61%. Therefore, she
can give an output of 211 pcs in 4.5 hrs. With proper training she can give at least 20%
91
CASE 1.2:
Fathima is absent today for the operation 3t o/l front a/h of SAM 0.55. If Kala is idle for
Kala can do 3t o/l front a/h operation and with an efficiency of 47.67%. Therefore, she can
give an output of 202 pcs in 4.5 hrs. With proper training she can give at least 20%
CASE 2:
DAY 7:

absent
29-06-10 1 Anu 3t o/l shell 0.41 2 lakshmi

2 Valarmath baby hem 2 0.3 1 Kala

i center 43.55%
small ruffle
3 Kavitha Make front 0.49 1 Ashwini Lakshmi

Dart 41.57%
36.57%
4 Priya Label 0.36 1

making
CASE 1:
92
CASE 2:
Valarmathi is absent today for the operation baby hem 2 center small ruffle of SAM 0.3. If
Kala is idle for 29.13 minutes in 1hr she can be idle for 233 minutes in 1day which is more
than 3.8 hours. Kala can do baby hem 2 center small ruffle operation and with an
CASE 3:
DAY 8:
Date No Operators Operation SAM No of Skilled

days Operators
absent
30-06-10 1 Valarmathi baby hem 2 0.3 1 Kala 43.55%

center small
ruffle
CASE 1:
DAY 9:

days Operators
absent
01-07-10 1 Valarmathi baby hem 2 0.3 4 Kala 43.55%
93
center small
ruffle
CASE 1:
DAY 10:

days Operators
absent
02-07-10 1 Sarasu Side lining 0.85 1

attach
2 Vaishali Neck 0.3 1

attaching
CASE 1:
Sarasu is absent today for the operation Side lining attach of SAM 0.85. Since there is no
subsequent operator for this job. Sarasu cannot be replaced operator but a floater whose
productivity will be very less.
CASE 2:
Vaishali is absent today for the operation Neck attaching of SAM 0.30. Since there is no
subsequent operator for this job. Vaishali cannot be replaced operator but a floater whose
productivity will be very less.
DEALING WITH MENTAL STRESS AND PYSICAL FATIGUE ON THE

PRODUCTION FLOOR
AIM:
94
To Handle Mental Stress and Physical Fatigue Order to Increase Productivity and Retaining
Of Workers
OBJECTIVES:
To understand the operator mentality
To study causes for mental stress
To understand worker limitations- physical and mental
To devise methods to reduce stress and fatigue
DELIVERABLES:
Worker retention
Enjoyable work surroundings
Better productivity as a result
TYPICAL GARMENT WORKER PROFILE
The typical work profile of the employees in ACL in SP 53 Unit

•Females, usually 18-24, from rural provinces
95
•Limited formal education, usually no more than primary school, semi-literate only
•No sewing training prior to coming to ACL; small fee usually paid for minimal pre-
employment industrial sewing training to pass recruitment test
•Average monthly wage of Rs.2700.
•Limited number of workers aspire to supervisory positions; most envision returning to
villages to custom sew when finished with factory jobs
Youth Profile
•Net enrollment rates decline dramatically after primary school

–Lower secondary school qualified: 17-21%
–Upper secondary school qualified: 8-9%
•Well-educated youth have high career aspirations

•Few contemplate a career in garment industry.
•Surprised to learn that skilled career paths exist in garment industry
What causes mental stress??
Working in a garment factory has never been an easy job. Operators are not paid by the hour
but rather by the number bundles they have produced, therefore a persons' pay depends on
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how fast she is able to work. Engineers decide how much time hould be used to produce each
pocket, zipper, and sleeve. If a worker does it faster, she is operating at over 100% and gets
paid more. But if it takes her longer, she is operating at less than 100% and will be paid less.
If she makes a mistake, she must fix it on her own time. Workers in ACL are guaranteed only
a minimum wage of RS.1300 per month. Workers are also subject to periodic forced layoffs
and shortened weeks in times of low demand, and 4 hours of more working hours per day.
Despite the low pay, the work is hard. Repetitive work such as piece work, creates serious
health hazards. Repetitive strain injury and carpal tunnel syndrome are common experiences
among operators, as well as chronic back and neck problems. Because of pressure to produce,
workers are more reluctant to take breaks to stand up and stretch or even adjust their chairs.
Physical Fatigue
Sewing machine operators face a substantially higher risk of muscle pain and injury than
workers in other jobs. Studies also show that the frequency of persistent neck and shoulder
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injuries increases with years of employment. One report found that sewing machine operators
experience as many cases of repetitive strain injuries as data entry and secretaries combined.
These injuries lead to long-term health effects. This is why we wanted to look at the working
conditions that can lead to such high rates of disability for clothing workers.
Physical characteristics of the job are an important risk factor for muscle pain and injury. The
risks for sewing machine operators have been linked to conditions such as poor workstation
design and chairs, and organizational factors such as the piecework system.
Factors such as repetition, force, posture and vibration are associated with higher rates of
injury. But you can’t look at the workstation alone to understand these injuries. There is
growing evidence that other factors are
linked to injuries.
These include:
 high work pace,
 lack of control over the job,
 workload,
 co-worker support and
 the general work environment.
On the other hand, researchers have identified factors that relate to reduced injury rates.
These factors include empowerment of the workforce, delegation of safety activities, greater
seniority of the workforce.
An active role of top management physical and organizational risk factors at the same time in
more than one workplace. And most studies have focused only on sewing machine operators,
leaving out workers in other jobs. The purpose of this study was to document and describe
the current work conditions throughout the clothing industry.
Why must we deal with operators stress issues??
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The backbone of the garment industry of today are the operators. They work long hours to
meet the company targets. Most operators in garment industry today are rural women, who
have the responsibilities of small children and families besides their day long factory shifts.
A worker’s productivity is greatly hampered because of psychological reasons. When a
worker is a skilled work but is bombarded with a million thoughts, she has a very high risk
of:
Cause damage to the garment
Causes physical danger to self
Affect the productivity of the others in the line.
Some of the major reasons for stress in operators are:
Long working hours
Meeting personal targets
Repetitive work
Unresolved family issues
Case Study
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1.1
Revathi, is an operator who works in line D, of sp-53. She is 18 years of age and unmarried.
She works 8-10 hrs everyday on the production floor and then travels 45mins everyday to
redhills. She works in order to earn a second salary after her father who works as a
construction worker and has an unsteady income who will be turning 55 next month. She has
4 unemployed elder brothers, who she supports. Revathi wishes for a higher education so she
can bring honor and name to the family. She plans to leave the company the following month
in order to marry a clerk working in a bank with a salary of Rs. 4000. When asked why she
did not aspire to become an A grade operator and earn a double salary along her husband,
she replied ”I’m here only for the money and if I get it from my husband I might as well
enjoy at home with my family than come to work everyday, I too want to have a family life”
1.2
Mr.Yezdi Batliwala is a retired employee of Godrej. He served the company for 38years.
During his 10 th year at the company he was offered a job at one of Godrej’s competitors
plus irresistible perks. He downright refused the offer. He explained “In those days our,
company took care of our needs and so we too had the loyalty towards the company.”
Employees at ACL today do not have any loyalty towards the company. It’s has no
significance in the emotional aspects of their lives. Employees have unresolved family and
work place issues which the company is not empathetic to. They feel insignificant and
replaceable.
HOW CAN THE COMPANY INCREASE THE EMPLOYEES LOYALTY?
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The company can simply increase a employees loyalty to the company by addressing to their
personal issues, such as:
Community college facility where the employees can stay after work for evening classes and
receive a formal education and a degree, which is related to their professional skills.
Conduct stress management workshops every month.
Have more interactive sessions with the operator with motivational speakers.
Create an as much as family environment within the factory.
Create higher levels of understanding between the managerial and worker staff
What is the advantage of having a stress free operator?

Higher productivity
Will create a pleasant work atmosphere for others to work in
Motivate other operators around her
Will have an increased sense of gratitude and loyalty towards the company.
SOLUTIONS
 Stress management programs provided by NGO’s such as ‘The Art Of Living’’s Nav
Chetana Shivirs programs.
 Counseling by an in house physiologist to keep the operators motivated.
 Providing them with a community college degree giving them a feeling of self worth
and gratitude towards the company
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CONCLUSION
During this internship, we studied all the processes that are carried out in manufacturing a
garment. The process starts right from the order being placed by the buyer to its shipment.
Though the internship was focussed in production, we also got a chance to study other
departments like sampling, merchandising and research and development. We came across
various problems that the factory faces and also suggested solutions for a few.
Whatever we learnt in theory through this internship we were able to experience it

practically. During the course of this internship we also came to know what it takes to make a
quality garment and understand all the departments and their functions along with their
functioning problems.
We came across issues which popped out during production and how it was solved in real
times. We learnt how to challenge a different problem every time.
We did two projects. One on “To Maintain Productivity during Absenteeism” which was one
of the major concerns of the factory. Another project “Dealing with mental stress and
physical fatigue on the production floor” which will help with worker retention. Overall it
was a great learning experience working on the production floor.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED (SP 53), 2010

AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED

For the Partial Fulfilment of the Course

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

On completion of the Sixth semester of a four year Apparel Production Under-graduate

The other specific purpose includes:

 Exposure to factory and office conditions.

To fulfil this purpose we did our internship at “AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED”

SL. NO CONTENTS PAGE.NO

2 HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT 9

3 MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING DEPARTMENT 11

4 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 13

6 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT 26

7 CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 30

9 ELECTRONIC DATA PROCESSING 38

11 PROCESS FLOW CHART 47

15 QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT 61

AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED

 To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individual’s pursuit of

ACL is the supplier to some of the world’s leading brands like

5. BANANA REPUBLIC 6. FORTH & TOWN

7. ANN TAYLOR 8. OLD NAVY

9. BASS PRO 10. ESPIRIT

11. DIESEL 12. MAY STORE

13. DOCKERS 14. LIZ CLAIBORNE

15. EDDIE BAUER 16. NEXT

17. KOHLS 18. L.L.BEAN

ACL SPECIALIZES IN THE MANUFACTURING OF FOLLOWING PRODUCTS:

MEN’S WEAR WOMEN’S WEAR

Overall Financial performance:

 Annual sales turnover of US $140 million.

 Asset Base of US $ 57 million and net worth of US $ 74 million.

 Rated best client in India by individual development Bank of India.

1. Human resource and welfare department

HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT

 Ensuring value driven management

 Fully equipped ambulance room

 Master health check up for employees children

B. Day Care Centre for our employees children

 Accommodation for 150 children.

 Trained person for specialized care.

2. Employees working Environment

 Stimulating work environment.

 Free flow of communication, decision making and feedback are

 Treated drinking water and clean, hygienic rest rooms.

3. Training and Development of the employees

 Technical know-how impacted on tailoring. Also organize up

4. Commitment to the society

 Funded an Eye hospital for the neighbourhood village

 Employment of physically challenged people

 First aid training

 Health and hygiene awareness programmes conducted

6. Secured Transport Facilities

 Pick up and drop facilities of all employees.

 Transport reaching out to all rural employees at a radius of 40 km.

 Compliance to all environment and pollution control norms.

MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING DEPARTMENT

Hierarchy of Merchandising Department

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT