Dust Tactics Tutorial

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Patrick Doty: I’ve been painting for years mostly sci-fi and fantasy but once in a while some

historicals too. My favorit


genre has always been Weird War II and in Dust I found the perfect fusion of historical and weird. I’ve always painted
‘assembly line style’ but even that could take way too long. Then someone showed me Army Painter Dips and colored
sprays… I had to ‘take the challenge’ and painted up a Dust Tactics/Warfare SSU force. Here’s how I did it.

From this..

…to this.
Step 1
I separated the minis carefully at the legs and popped off the thigh armor. I then put a dab of PVA glue on each of the
clear lenses to mask them from the spray in step two…

Step 2
I sprayed the thigh armor and the upper half of the minis with Army Green spray and the lower half with Matt Black.
Make sure the PVA from step One is dry before you spray.
Step 3
Paint all the areas on the upper half that are going to be metallic with Matt Black. i.e. The arms, ammo feeds, cables etc.
Also don’t forget to paint the ‘toes’ of the mini Army Green!

Step 4
Dry brush the areas that are to be metallic with Gun Metal. For the minis with rolled up tarps, paint the tarps Desert
Yellow. The bullets for the ammo feeds were heavily dry brushed Greedy Gold and the bullet tips were painted Shining
Silver.
Step 5
At this point you are almost ready to dip. Reassemble you minis, be sure to glue the thigh armor on. Once dry, you are
ready for step 6.

Reassembled and ready for the dip.

Step 6
Dip ‘em in Quick Shade Strong Tone. Follow the dip method shown in the video tutorial on this website. Let ‘em dry
overnight and then hit ‘em with Anti Shine Matt Varnish.

Dipped, dried and Anti Shined.


Step 7
At this point you can base them and field them as is. If you choose to do so be sure to carefully remove the glue from
the lenses with your thumbnail. The remaining steps below take the minis to the next level.

Step 8
Mix Army Green with a touch of Skeleton Bone (roughly 80-20) and using a small dry brush, carefully work up this color
in the centers of the armor panels. This is sometimes called ‘panel highlighting’. The main areas on the SSU to pay
attention to are the armored cowl (the metal hood that covers his head), the thigh armor and chest armor. On those
areas that don’t have a large flat area for you to highlight, lightly dry brush the paint across the raised areas. The
forearms are a good example of this.

Step 9
Time to chip the armor. Mix Army Green and Matt Black in
equal parts. Get a bit of foam, the type found in Battle Foam
army trays for example. Form it into a wedge, the edge will
be your ‘brush’. I pick it up with a pair of tweezers, if your
fingers are nimble you may rely on them. Anyway, dip the
foam edge in the paint mix, wipe off most of it and them dab
the paint onto the miniature. Concentrate the paint in those
areas you think would be subject to wear and tear and battle
damage. Be care full not to have too much paint on the
foam and not to gunk the paint on. You can always add
more if need be.
Step 10
Once you have the chipping base in place, apply Shining Silver to the centers of the chips with a Detail Brush. Once done
with that dry brush some Shining Silver onto the metallic areas. Dry Brush Greedy Gold lightly onto the bullets (mix in a
little Shining Silver to really make it ‘pop’). Use a Regiment bruch to reapply Desert Yellow to the tarps, be sure not to
paint into the crevasses and folds, leave them dark.

Step 11
Using a Small Dry Brush lightly brush on Desert Yellow to the armor panels where you think dust and dirt would build up.
I concentrated on the lower 1/3 of each armor panel with a bit more on the legs. While you have the Small Dry Brush
out, lightly dry brush the barrel ends of the weapons with Matt Black.
Step 12
Time to base. I glued sand to the bases with PVA glue and once it was dry painted it Oak Brown. This was followed by a
heavy dry brush of Desert Yellow and a light Dry Brush of Skeleton Bone. I glued Highland and Wilderness Tuffts to the
bases. While I waited for the glue on the Tuffts to dry I carefully removed the glue masks from the lenses with a
thumbnail. With the glue dried it was time for one last spray of Anti Shine Matt Varnish. Fin.
This entire force was painted in less than three hours broken up over two days.

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