Garment Industry Departments
Garment Industry Departments
Garment Industry Departments
A
A
G
GAAR
RMME
ENNTT IIN
NDDU
USSTTR
RYYD
DEEP
PAAR
RTTM
MEEN
NTTS
SAAN
NDDW
WOOR
RKKIIN
NGG
RAJESH.K
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER TITLE
1 DEPARTMENTS
2.1. MERCHANDISING
2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3. FABRIC SOURCING
2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT
2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE
2.10. CAD ROOM
2.11. CUTTING ROOM
2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
2.13. IED DEPARTMENT
2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT
2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
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CHAPTER 2
2.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams
are made according to the buyers being handled.
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising
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Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct
contact with the buyer.
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
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Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
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These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost
etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done
accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
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Start
Costing Sampling
Obtain PCD & Source trims & Book washing & Obtain GSD
details from fabric from embroidery capacity if from IED
production unit concerned dept. required
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In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments
and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric
details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this
information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and
approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes
samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
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TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set:
Size Set:
TOP Sample:
Shipment Sample:
Sales Sample:
Machine details
250 operators
5 cutting tables
8 pattern making tables
1 conveyor belt fusing machine
Finishing machines
11 ironing tables
1 shirt folding machine
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After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store
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Develop patterns
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Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute
their function effectively.
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked
fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the
fabric whenever needed in future.
FABRIC ISSUE
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it
is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style no, color, buyer’s name, and
quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.
FABRIC SOURCING
Order placed
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After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted
If accepted
Relocation in store
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Sampling Start
Bulk
If Ok If not Ok
Rate quotation from suppliers
S/Off
,L
Supplier selection
Submit to buyer Redo S/Off
Fabric receipt
Bulk
End
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The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference
is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the
same. The working is as follows.
The merchandisers give the techpack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for
costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the
price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its
production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button
is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the
transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is
also taken into consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all
the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.
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After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them
are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser
according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then
the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be
sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the
department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the
inspections that are being carried out for those materials.
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Booking from
merchants
If Yes If No
Check
existing stock
Proposals
PO conformation
Raising PO in ERP
PO sending
Send PO to accounts
End
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SHADE SEGREGATION
The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows:
The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report.
Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut
for lab tests if any.
¼ meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is
done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades.
Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is
matched.
In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also.
While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching
cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources.
The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing
departments, cutting departments for approval and references.
All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.
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FABRIC INSPECTION
In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics
are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the
standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification
of serious defects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4 point inspection system :
For checking whether the fabric is within the acceptable level, points/100 sq. yards is
calculated as:
Points / 100 sq yard = (total no. of points * 3300) / (width in inches * length
in mtrs)
Example:-
PASS :- (57*3300) / (44*300) = 14 points / 100 sq yards
FAIL :- (47*3300) / (44*45) = 78 points / 100 sq yards
Width measurement of all the rolls is taken at least 1 time and minimum width is recorded
which helps in freezing the cuttable width of the fabric.
The fabric length of the roll piece is checked and compared against length declared by
supplier.
For every fabric order one meter of fabric is kept aside for lab testing and quality standard
reference randomly.
Minimum of the ten bits from different bales of fabric is kept from every consignment order
for shrinkage test.
The inspection results are then filled in goods inspection reports (GIR).
The GIR reports have following categories:
THAN CLASSIFICATION
POINTS/100
ACCEPTED BELOW REJECTED ABOVE 40
SQ. YARDS
40 POINTS POINTS
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METERAGE
FOLD LENGTH (IN WIDTH (IN
BALE NO. PIECE NO. EPI PPI
IN STICKER ACTUAL CMS) INCHES)
There is a space in the bottom for “Remarks”; where whether the roll is acceptable or rejected is
specified.
When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 – point system, the defects are marked with
different colored stickers for different types of defects as:
The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings
are kept for reference.
INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS
WIDTH LEVEL
Up to 44 inches 1” acceptable
60 to 72 inches 2” acceptable
After inspection of the roll/ takka is done, if the roll is passed/ rejected, a sticker is put on the
respective roll. It contains following information:
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Tag used:
I-Bangalore
Pass fabric
Bale no.- Pc no.-
Fabric - Qty-
Colour- Width-
No. of points- Date-
By- Shade-
Face side-
This sticker is of green color for the pass fabrics and magenta for the rejected fabric rolls or
takkas.
Type R 501
Power input 1 Ø , 220 v, 50 Hz
Power output 3 Ø, 220 v, 50 Hz
Gear motor 1 hp, 100 rpm.
Power consumption 0,75 kw
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Start
Receive fabrics
Forward to
If No If approved If Yes
cutting dept.
Reject lot
End
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The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents
i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also the department
also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would
have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the
accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular
material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this
is termed as PRE GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person
verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have
received from the merchant as already stated.
After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they
carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the
buyer. The company carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods
received.
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151-280 20 0
281-500 32 1
501-1200 32 1
1201-3200 50 2
3201-10000 80 3
10001-35000 125 5
35001-150000 200 7
150001-5000000 315 10
500000-above 500 14
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done based
on the nature of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills
whatever they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill
other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them
about the materials in-housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with the
document for processing.
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Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been
approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to
issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as
already mentioned.
Start
SUB- PRODUCTION
CONTRACTING ISSUES
Material
outward
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Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the
company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps
them to know the capacity of the production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style
to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the
particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that
has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components
in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines
required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing
of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style
and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of
the operators with respect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment
for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire
style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the
GM and FM.
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Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates
on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation
they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and
finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the
merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management
every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about
3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the
batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are
committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators
and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This
sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of
the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit
idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different
departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of
mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then
the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
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Start
Take inputs from IED on Confirm the above details given Confirm in consultation
productivity based on to concerned units in consultation with embroidery, washing
garment analysis with GM & FM departments
End
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The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several
tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for
such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or
accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized
ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.
The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in
Bangalore city.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
Accessory Stores:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the
sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be
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carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists
of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,
Button breaking test
Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
Color fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment
fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular
material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material
related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
Types of tests.
Urgency of the task.
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
Number of samples that has to be tested.
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the
departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and
the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and
then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of
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tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then
after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the
concerned department form where they have got it.
Start
Dimensional
stability to Dimensional
washing Stability
Fabric Strength
Corrugated box
Fabric Weight
End
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Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a
very important are to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-
maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward
reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary
to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;
Needle systems
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Picotting UOX163/TVX7
Smoking DVKX25/DVX57
Zigzag DBX1
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BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
Graded measurement spec sheet.
Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or folded form),
roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.
Receive spec
sheet form
Receive patterns
from pattern
Digitize pattern
to feed in
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Pattern correction
Output to
Pattern grading
Graphtec
plotter
Cut ratio
planning Pattern sent to
merchandiser for
Market planning sampling
according to the
cut plan ratio
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Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of
styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims
averages.
Measurement sheet
Design worksheet of the garment
Purchase order
Fabric requisition sheet
CAD mini marker
Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.
Solid cutting
Spreading
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine.
While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more
accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the
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marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric
and the capacity of the machine.
Cutting
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the
marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are
also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band
knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as
it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to
requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks
are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching
the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific
number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini
marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.
Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the
hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough
cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut shapes are again
checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the
patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also
more due to cutting in two stages.
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Spread
Match
Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns
Cut patterns
Match
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-
bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The
worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the
cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important
means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.
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The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual
piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,
incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are
sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted
out during garment finishing or washing.
Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will
contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount
required by the production department when asked for.
Embroidery
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up
these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re-
cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched
together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.
Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the
temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re
bundled.
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Cutting package
from production
manager
Cut sample to
check
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Require
Checking
Yes
Send to CAD for
Change
No
Receive changed
Cut for initial size
pattern from CAD
set
Assemble and
check
Require Yes
changes
NO
No
Issue job
order WORK FLOW IN
Cut plan CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Bulk cutting
Sorting
Bundling
Issue 41
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After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and
sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are
required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting
for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this
teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the
production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the
entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will
make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for
the particular style.
Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are
prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is
done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are
checked and sent.
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
In-process checking.
Endline checking. – Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
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The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking
is done.
The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each
operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each
bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the
next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The
movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig – zag motion
which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is
partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three
and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch
which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get
him/her their material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever
asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the
factory at any time.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular
line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of
the operators.
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Start
Bulk Production
Assembly
In-Line
checking End line checking & AQL
audit
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Washing
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Measurement checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Auditing by buyer QA
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After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single
operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this
report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM
value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working
that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about
the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified
period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows,
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review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation
carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated
efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow
the right one.
Start
Prepare O.B
Selection of operators,
helpers, supervisors, Calculate accessories
checkers, QC, etc. Hourly production tracking consumption
Line balancing
Capacity study
Efficiency calculation
End
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During batch setting a model of the sewing line or batch is planned in the following manner as
shown in the picture on a planning table carrying Velcro and small plastic boards which
represent the machines.
Buyer :Walmart
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The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest
embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from
the merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in
company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also
get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use
this as their reference sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be
done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and
check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch
involved for the design, thread colours required, thread tex, starting point of the design on the
garment while performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in
the softcopy format and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start
the further operation .
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that
has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is
something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been
generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be
produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery
action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and
the other case is after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a
complete garment.
The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the
cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.
After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the cut parts
received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine
there are operators for this process.
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The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the
maximum noise that is been produced by the machines.
Start
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
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After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
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At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the
garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar manner then
such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In this
washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry
processing there are four different types they are,
1. Grinding
2. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
4. Crinkling
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet
processing involves mainly two types, they are
1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive dyes and
pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the
usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements.
2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they
are classified as follows,
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
Softener wash
Desize wash
Enzyme wash
Stone enzyme wash
Rubber ball wash
Denim wash
Bleach wash
Tinting/ T- staining
Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else
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the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the
dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing
and then to the washing process.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in
which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the
tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages
will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used
for that particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according
to the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after
the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the
left over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units
located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving the
garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department has to keep in
track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out
for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process to be finished for the
garments according to the types of the washes prescribed for them, etc., hence this
department maintains a record in which they fill in the details of the garment style number,
PO number, item number, quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The department
maintains these details both in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department
will enter the details in the ERP. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment
lot from the different units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and also
phone calls.
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Start
Washing
As per buyer
spec
Dry process:
Wet grinding/ripping/blowout/sand
Processing blasting/crinkling/whiskering/ severen
Washing:
Dyeing
softener/acid/desize/enzyme/stone/
rubber ball/stone
enzyme/tinting/normal water wash/
Reactive Pigment dip n dry/denim
Hydro Extraction
Drying
Inspection (Random)
End
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Pre-production audit:
In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the
production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples
and precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The
size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer
for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these
samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the
garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment.
For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the
length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the
belt loops, etc.,
For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions
and also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label
attachment areas, etc.,
Cutting audit:
In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the
auditing is further divided into many other departments which are,
1. Spreading
2. Relay cut
3. Band knife
4. Shade
5. Hard pattern
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Sewing audit:
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are
1. In – line audit:
Here the garments are checked during their different stages of
manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment
is split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the
end of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is
auditing.
For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire
manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front,
finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the
shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be
provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which
he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked.
Button/button hole :
In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the
job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator
does it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment
and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the
garment to attach the button/ making the button holes.
After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related
information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will
be sent to the respective departments for rectification
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The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and
it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department
includes majorly of the following steps,
Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas.
Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it
depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the
company has to do as specified.
Semi – pressing:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes
from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
Pressing:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
Tagging section:
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they
are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the
garments are folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either
folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the
buyer’s specifications again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to
be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.
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Packing:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
There are generally two kinds of packing the garment,
1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will
be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag
packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged
in the carton box.
2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the
carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag.
The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different
ways which is as follows,
Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single
colour and same size.
For example, 20 shirts of a similar colour say navy blue and the size say S will
be put in one carton box.
Ratio Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of same colour but of
different sizes according to the ratio.
For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5.
Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colours but of
same size or garments with different colours and different sizes in a particular ratio
form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the
buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will
check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or
rejected.
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