CT17 DuPont Skin Ebook Opt
CT17 DuPont Skin Ebook Opt
CT17 DuPont Skin Ebook Opt
Directory 2017
Boosting
Skin Strengths
Skin Care
Anti-acne
Anti-cellulite
Antiperspirants/Deodorants
Barrier Repair
Emollients/Humectants
Moisturizers
Skin Healing
Balancing
Sensitivity
Natural
Anti-acne
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Business Media.
side, a luminous glow or slight blush generally 2017 SKIN CARE E-BOOK
indicates good health.
Its no wonder why the occasional blemish,
wrinkle or age spot appears: skin is a hard- CONTENTS
working organ. And as such, a little help couldnt
hurt it. Both skin care developers and consum-
ers realize its in our best interests to boost 2 Boosting Skin Strengths
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
skins strengths and reinforce its weaknesses.
Thats where this free Skin Care e-book, spon-
sored by DuPont, Tate & Lyle Bio Products, has
youcovered.
4 Skin Care Slows but
Dermocosmetics and
Here, we present the latest ingredients Naturals Prevail
launched to care for and maintain the skin Global Cosmetic Industry
from acne treatments, antiperspirants and bar-
rier repair agents, to deodorants, moisturizers,
protectants and more. We also include three of 8 Skin Barrier Impaired?
Two TEWLs to Tell
our latest technical articles exploring some of
Ann Den Yi, et al.
the most troubling skin concerns: barrier impair-
ment, acne and skin sensitivity.
If youre as busy as your skin, this free e-book 22 Reaching a Zen-like State in Skin:
is structured to help boost your product develop- Biomimetic Peptide to
ment activities while reinforcing your bottom Balance Sensitivity
line. Download it today. Estelle Loing, Ph.D.
32 Brassica Breakthrough:
Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves
C&T Daily Newsletter
Clinically Effective
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries Murat Trkoglu, et al.
delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
C&T Online
56 Skin Care Formulas
KEY POINTS
Growth in the skin care market is anticipated to slow,
although pockets of strength will continue to emerge
in dermocosmetics and naturals.
S
*Adapted with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Business Media.
Acquisition Targets
Dermocosmetics are set to exert a greater
influence on the beauty industry and additional
opportunities will open up as healthy aging is
placed at the core of consumer lifestyles. This
will be spear-headed by millennials, who put
greater focus on preventative skin care through
the use of facial cleansers, masks and moistur- C&T Online
izers. These segments are anticipated to gain Find related content at
in vigor from 20152020, with global CAGR www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
KEY POINTS
It has been proposed that topical treatment
using linoleic acid can repair defective barrier
function in damaged skin.
The present article tests this theory and
compares the results using two types
of TEWL measurements: open and
closedchamber.
Skin Barrier
Impaired? Reproduction in English or any other language of
8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com in English orallwww.duponttateandlyle.com
Reproduction or part
any of language
other this article
of isallstrictly
or partprohibited. 2017Business
of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Media. E-book
Skin Care
2017 Allured Business Media.
Two 'TEWLs' to Tell
T
newly developed topical products containing
linoleic acid was therefore used in the present
study to assess, via transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), the proposed effects:
The protection potential, whereby the prod-
he lipid matrix of the stratum ucts are applied for a period of time before
corneum (SC), consisting the insult to the skin barrier is carried out;
primarily of ceramides, in this case with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
cholesterol and fatty acids, solution;and
is crucial for the integrity of The repair potential, whereby an insult with
the skin barrier. Linoleic acid SLS to the skin barrier was followed by a
is an essential fatty acid, whose deficiency can period of product application.
lead to abnormal epidermal permeability barrier TEWL: TEWL water loss is the key bio-
function.1, 2 In the case of its deficiency, linoleic engineering parameter to assess skin barrier
acid is replaced with oleic acid, disturbing the impairment and recovery.5 It is known to closely
normal formation of lipid lamellae in theSC.3 reflect the changes in the skin barrier function,
It has been proposed that topical treatment hence it was chosen as the main skin variable
of linoleic acid could repair defective barrier to test in this study. A variety of protocols to
function in detergent-treated skin.1 In addition, assess TEWL exist in the literature, most of them
it has been shown that topical application of fatty based on published guidance documents.6 These
acids in general could alter the intercellular lipid protocols include a strict control of environ-
domains of the SC.4 A range of commercial and mental conditions, specifically the temperature
and relative humidity, as well as the air flow lines of good laboratory practices. Before the start
duringmeasurements. of the study, each participant signed an informed
The instruments used to measure TEWL can be consent form.
broadly divided in two groups based on open and Open chamber method: As noted, a typical
closed chamber principles. For the present work, a open chamber instrumenta was used. The measur-
typical representative open chamber instrumenta ing head of the probe is a hollow cylinder with a
was used and compared with a relatively new diameter of 10 mm and a height of 20 mm. This
generation of closed chamber instrumentsb. Special contains two sets of sensors for detecting relative
emphasis was placed on their sensitivities to detect humidity and temperature, at different heights. The
small differences in TEWL. A complementary skin data obtained is converted into the flux density of
hydration testc also was carried out. the evaporating water, expressed in g/m2 hr.
The measurement time in this study was set
Materials and Methods to 20 sec. Using proprietary software, the mean
Materials: The anionic detergent SLS ( 99.0% TEWL value from the point of stabilization up to
purity), diluted in distilled water, was used to cause 20 sec was recorded in each case. Before the start
SC barrier impairment.7 A range of commercially of the study, the instrument was calibrated follow-
available and newly formulated products contain- ing manufacturers instructions. The reliability and
ing linoleic acid was used to treat relevant test sites validity of this method, under controlled experi-
and 18 mm Finn chambers and 18 mm filter paper mental conditions, have been widely assessed.8
discs were used as occlusive patches. Closed chamber method: For the closed
Methods: Both studies were carried out per chamber methodb, the measurement chamber is a
Ethics committee approval, following the guide- cylinder with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of
12 mm. The upper end of the probe is closed with
a
Tewameter TM300, Courage & Khazaka a condenser that is maintained at a temperature of
b
AquaFlux AF200, Biox Systems -7.65C, below the freezing temperature of water.
c
Corneometer CM825, Courage & Khazaka When the probe aperture is placed against
the skin, the water vapor emitted from the skin
surface into the closed chamber is removed by its
conversion into ice. An electronic cooler located
in the condenser creates a controlled microclimate
within the chamber, including constant relative
Achieving beautiful skin is no longer confined humidity. Sensors for detecting relative humidity
to makeup or anti-aging creams. Urban and temperature are mounted within the wall
lifestyles in particular are encouraging of the chamber, similarly to the open chamber
consumers to have healthy skin at all times. system. However, the design of the probe enables
TEWL measurements to be made independent of
the external temperature and air movement.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
The closed chamber measurement was
(www.GCImagazine.com)
completed after achieving a steady TEWL reading.
Before the start of the study, the instrument was
Protection Test
Protocol
Fourteen healthy female
volunteers having a mean age
of 25.6, ranging from 19 to
42 years, participated in
this study. No adverse
reactions were recorded.
The test area was the
volar forearm. Three
test sites of 3 x 3 cm,
separated by 2.5 cm, were
allocated symmetrically
on both inner forearms of
each participant. Regions
near the wrist and flexural
areas of the volar forearm
were avoided. The study
period spanned 14 days.
Three non-invasive mea-
surements were taken in the
following order: open chamber,
closed chamber, then hydration test.
All measurements were carried out in
accordance to the relevant published
guidelines. Baseline measurements were
obtained after a 30-min acclimation at 21C
and 50% relative humidity.
Next, a 14-day supply of test products labelled
as A, B, D, E and F were handed out to each par-
ticipant, along with application instructions and a
customized template showing the allocation of the
products. This allocation among participants was
balanced using the Latin Square Design, where test
site C was the untreated control. Participants were
instructed to apply test products twice daily by
lightly massaging the site until complete absorp-
tion of the product. They returned for additional
measurements after 7 and 14 days.
After collecting the TEWL and corneometer
data on day 14, all test sites were subjected to SLS
treatment under occlusion. A 200-L aliquot of
freshly made 5% w/v SLS was transferred on the
round piece of filter paper, fitting into the 18 mm-
Finn chamber. One Finn chamber was applied
to each of six test sites, where it remained for
Table 1. Mean TEWL Values (n = 14) of Inner Forearm Using Open Chamber
Untreated,
Time (weeks) A B D E F
control skin (C)
0 6.3 1.8 5.9 1.1 6.9 1.7 7.3 2.6 6.9 2.7 7.1 1.6
1 7.6 1.8 7.5 2.1 7.1 2.3 7.1 2.2 7.3 2.6 7.3 2.8
Tbefore SLS 7.5 2.3 7.3 2.8 7.7 2.1 7.6 2.4 7.3 2.5 6.9 2.6
Tafter SLS 8.2 2.8 8.4 2.9 8.3 2.7 8.2 3.0 8.1 2.7 7.9 2.4
Measurements taken at baseline (week 0), after product treatment (week 1, week 2 Tbefore SLS) and after irritation with SLS (week 2 Tafter
SLS) for treated (A, B, D, E, F) and untreated (C) skin; results expressed in g/m2 hr (mean SD) as measured by open chambera
shield the test sites against wetting. They were was chosen. The data was plotted on graphsd as the
instructed to remove the SLS patches from the skin mean SD; all statistical calculations were made
at a designated time and to expose the skin to air using softwaree.
for at least 1 hr after the patch wasremoved.
Skin measurements were carried out 24 hr after Results: Open Chamber,
patch removal, as suggested by Friebe et al.7 Fol- Study 1
lowing measurements after SLS damage, all sites The TEWL values measured on inner forearms
were treated with test products except two: site C at different time points are shown in Table 1 and
as a positive control (undamaged) and site H as a Figure 1, while Table 2 presents the results of
negative control (damaged with SLS). Participants the statistical analysis of the data. As expected,
were given a two-week supply and customized after exposure to 5% SLS for 30 min, a statistically
templates, as in study 1, and asked to use test significant increase in TEWL was observed at
products twice daily for two weeks. Final measure- week2 (Tafter SLS), compared with baseline values
ments were completed on day 16 of the study. on all test sites (A-F) (p = 0.001). However, no
statistically significant differences were found in
Statistical Analysis TEWL between the different test sites (p = 0.99),
Results were evaluated using analysis of indicating no differences among the test products.
variance (ANOVA) followed by Tukey HSD test
for paired differences, with a 95% family-wise d
Microsoft Excel 2010
confidence level. A significance level of p < 0.05 e
R version 3.0.2 for Windows
Variances among baseline values (week 0), values after product treatment (week 1, week 21) and values after skin irritation with SLS
(week 22), using a 2-way ANOVA followed by Tukey HSD pairwise comparison test (*p < 0.05)
Table 3. Mean TEWL Values (n = 14) of Inner Forearm Using Closed Chamber
Untreated,
Time (weeks) A B D E F control skin
(C)
10.245 10.620 10.305 10.736 10.628 10.779
0
2.401 2.813 2.153 2.696 2.743 2.899
12.172 12.113 11.404 11.354 11.853 12.111
1
3.133 4.127 3.190 3.078 4.499 4.717
12.349 11.812 11.906 11.729 12.055 11.665
Tbefore SLS
3.123 3.505 3.776 3.196 3.436 3.476
15.867 15.450 15.040 15.199 15.111 14.705
Tafter SLS
4.509 4.726 4.497 4.591 4.184 4.023
Measurements taken at baseline (week 0), after product treatment (week 1, week 2 Tbefore SLS) and after irritation with SLS
(week 2 Tafter SLS) for treated (A, B, D, E, F) and untreated (C) skin; results are expressed in g/m2 hr (mean SD) as measured by
closedchamberb
Measurements after product treatment (week 1, week 21) and after irritation with SLS (week 22) in TEWL using a 2-way ANOVA followed
by Tukey HSD pairwise comparison test (*p < 0.05)
cally significant changes (p = 0.001) compared exposure to 1.25% SLS for 24 hr and subsequent
to baseline values, week 1 and week 2 before SLS stabilization for another 24 hr, a highly statisti-
irritation. However, no statistically significant cally significant increase was found in TEWL on
differences were found in skin hydration among day 2 compared to baseline values, as expected.
the test sites(p = 0.520). No statistically significant differences were found
in TEWL on day 16 compared with baseline
Results: Open Chamber, values (p = 0.360), which indicated a successful
Study 2 barrierrecovery.
Figure 4 shows the TEWL values measured The negative control site H, which was not
on dorsal forearms at different time points. After treated with product after the SLS damage,
Measurements (t02) conducted 24 hr after the removal of SLS patches showed a highly significant increase in TEWL values
on all test sites, except the water-treated site. Results are given in mean SD; symbol * indicates significant difference to the
preceding set of values (p < 0.05).
Measurements (t02) conducted 24 hr after the removal of SLS patches showed a highly significant increase in TEWL values
on all test sites, except the water-treated site. Results are given in mean SD; symbol * indicates significant difference to the
preceding set of values (p < 0.05).
T02 = values measured 24 hr after the SLS patch removal; t16 = values measured after 14 days of treatment; symbol * indicates
significant difference to the preceding set of values (p < 0.05); t16 values were also significantly different from baseline values (t0)
Results: Closed
Chamber, Study 2
Figure 5 shows the mean TEWL values
measured on the dorsal forearms at different time
points using the condenser-chamber measuring
method. It yielded the same statistical conclusions as
the open chamber method between day 2 and baseline
values (p < 0.05), and between day 2 and day 16 in all
SLS-damaged test sites (p < 0.05). No statistically significant
differences were found in TEWL on day 16 compared with the
baseline values (p = 0.23).
The same conclusions as the open chamber measurements were
drawn from the data obtained on control site C throughout the study.
The results obtained in study 2 indicate the two methods used possess
similar sensitivity when measuring relatively large differences in TEWL.
(see Figure 5) was somewhatsurprising. 4. BJ Aungst, The influence of fatty acids and fatty alcohols on
skin permeability, in M Loden and HI Maibach, eds, Dry Skin
It is known that increased hydration levels and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, Boca Raton, FL,
in skin are due to an occlusive effect of the Finn CRC Press (2000)
chamber18 but literature indicates this effect lasts 5. KA Grice, Transepidermal water loss, in A Jarrett, ed, The
Physiology and Pathophysiology of the Skin, Academic
approximately 20 min.19 It is therefore likely this Press, London (1980) pp 21162146
C&T Online
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KEY POINTS
Inspired by nature, biomimetic peptides are
potent allies in skin care.
Zen
This paper identifies palmitoyl tripeptide-8
as an effective modulator of neurogenic
inflammation and provides clinical evidence
of its protective and soothing activities in
sensitized skin.
Reaching a
S kin sensitivity is a
common complaint
among consumers.
The prevalence of
this condition in
Europe, Japan and
the United States is approximately 50% in
women and 40% in men.1 Sensitive skin
is prone to itching, stinging, tingling and
burning sensations. These may be triggered
by external factorse.g., UV radiation, cold,
heat, wind, pollutants, chemicals, cosmetics,
The French expression, Avoir les nerfs
fleur de peau, poetically describes how
nerves may convey emotion to the edge
of skin. Nerve cells do so by releasing
neuromediators such as substance P (SP),
which acts on both the vascular bed to cause
vasodilation and increase permeability,
and on skin cells to promote the release
of pro-inflammatory cytokines including
some interleukins (IL-1 and IL-8) and tumor
necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-a). This leads to
skin edema and redness in a process called
diet, alcohol, et ceteraor internal factors neurogenic inflammation.3 In sensitive skin,
such as stress, emotions and hormones. inflammation tends to sustain itself in a situ-
No clear pathophysiological definition ation that, if not addressed properly, leads
for skin sensitivity has yet been given. The to more severe skin problems and causes
underlying mechanisms do not appear to be premature aging.
primary immunologic or allergic in nature. The skin has its own way to deal with
Altered barrier function is sometimes present neurogenic inflammation. It may fight
in affected subjects but this is not a univer- back by locally producing the neuropeptide
sal finding. On the other hand, commonly a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (a-MSH).
reported abnormal sensations point to the This decapeptide results from the post-
involvement of the neurological system.2 translational processing of the pro-hormone
Results:
Vasodilation
and Edema
To document the
effects of palmitoyl
tripeptide-8 on neu-
rogenic inflammation
Figure 1. In vitro modulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin, additional
experiments were
conducted using skin explants exposed to SP. right). These results demonstrate palmitoyl
The latter is a neuropeptide released by nerves tripeptide-8 can inhibit microvascular vasodila-
and inflammatory cells during inflammation. tion in the skin.
SP, acting through selective receptors, increases Edema: In SP treated skin explants, the
vascular permeability, causing local redness formation of edema appeared as an increase in
(erythema) and swelling (edema). SP also trig- white spaces between bundles of collagen (see
gers the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines Figure 2, lower left). The addition of palmitoyl
including IL-1 and IL-8 by keratinocytes and tripeptide-8 during SP treatment, though,
fibroblasts.8-10 significantly inhibited the phenomena by -60%,
Vasodilation: As shown in Figure 2 (left), which was an improvement even over the
topical application of SP induced vasodilation, control (see Figure 2, lower right). Such results
increasing the number and size of dilated capil- demonstrate palmitoyl tripeptide-8 can reduce
laries in the superficial dermis of skin explants. edema in skin.
However, these effects were significantly
reduced in the presence of palmitoyl tripep- Results: Clinical Studies
tide-8. Inhibition reached -30% for the number The potential of palmitoyl tripeptide-8 to
of dilated capillaries (not shown) and -51% for prevent and stop skin inflammation and irrita-
the size of dilated vessels (see Figure 2, upper tion under real-life conditions was assessed by
zemea-performs.com
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Formulating | C&T
KEY POINTS
While there are numerous topical and systemic
treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and
toxic interactions are a challenge.
B. oleracea var. italica (broccoli) was tested in a blend for clinical efficacy against acne.
A
upper arms. Women are more affected than
men and 75-95% of teenagers will experience
acne. Acne may also begin during the adult
years and approximately 12% of women
cne is one of the and 3% of men will have acne until their
most common mid-forties.3
multifactorial chronic Although acne lacks the urgency of a
inflammatory diseases life-threatening condition, without impairing
of the pilosebaceous overall fitness, it produces long-term ramifi-
follicle. It involves cations, which can be momentous, causing
androgen-induced sebaceous hyperplasia, cutaneous and emotional scars that last a
altered follicular keratinization, hormonal lifetime. It hampers an individuals confidence,
imbalance, immune hypersensitivity and causing physical, social and psychologi-
bacterial (Propionibacterium acnes) coloni- cal suffering and reduces self-esteem with
zation.1 Clinical features include oily skin, the increased emotional distress caused by
non-inflammatory lesions, i.e., open and perceived disfigurement.1
closed comedones, and inflammatory lesions In terms of pathogenesis, four key com-
(papules and pustules).2 More severe acne may ponents of acne development are influenced
cause deep inflammatory nodules, cysts and by androgens: 1) excessive sebum production
even fistular tracts, in addition to significant and follicular plugging; 2) enlargement of the
permanent scarring. sebaceous glands and development of micro-
Acne is most commonly present on the face comedones; 3) inflammatory process triggered
but can also affect the neck, chest, back and by P. acnes in microcomedones; and 4) further
inflammation from the released cytotoxic and developed to balance good anti-acne efficacy
chemotactic agents.3 with excellent tolerability; this will ensure
In terms of severity grades, acne can be patient adherence and, by extension, positive
categorized from mild or moderate to severe. clinical outcomes.5
Mild acne typically comprises open and closed Plant-based preparations can serve as
comedones (< 20) and inflammatory lesions therapeutic alternatives, potentially safer
(<15) of less than 30 in total. Likewise, in mod- choices or in some cases, as the only effective
erate acne, numerous papules and pustules are treatment.6 Therefore, an increasing tendency
observed along with comedones (20-100) and is to try natural alternative remedies.1, 7 Newly
inflammatory lesions (15-50), with total lesions developing natural therapies include naturally
ranging form 30-125. Severe acne is diagnosed derived drugs from active plant extracts, essen-
as extensive lesions including nodules and scar- tial oils and phytomolecules.1 Ingredients in
ring together with cysts (> 5). In this worst case, topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and
the total comedone count is more than 100, naturally derived compounds, have received
total inflammatory lesions are higher than 50, considerable interest as they show fewer
and total number of lesions surpasses 125.1 adverse effects than synthetic agents.8
Therapeutically, although there are numer- Although some herbs have been explored for
ous drug alternatives for the treatment of their anti-acne efficacy, many remain unexam-
acnee.g., topical systemic retinoids and ined.9 In relation, the present article describes
antibiotics, and topical keratolyticsthe an acne treatment incorporating two Brassica
foremost challenge is the growing concern over oleracea variants whose anti-inflammatory,
antibiotic resistance and dermal and systemic antimicrobial and antioxidant effects were
toxicities with existing medications.1, 4 The larg- previously reported.10, 11 Described herein
est hurdle in the treatment of acne is patient preliminary clinical trials aimed to determine
non-compliance, which is due in large part to the efficacy and tolerability of the topical herbal
poor tolerability with common acne medica- blend to treat mild to moderate acne.
tions. As such, new acne treatments must be
Materials and Methods
Extract preparation: Edible grade B.olera-
cea var. botrytis (cauliflower) and B. oleracea
var. italica (broccoli) were obtained from a com-
mercial farm in zmir, Turkey. The plants were
In the U.S. alone, acne affects 40 to 50 million picked and processed within two days to obtain
people. Sales of the top 10 acne brands extracts. The plant parts were finely cut and
include $600 million in topical antibiotics and two parts cauliflower to one part broccoli were
$240 million in topical retinoids. boiled in water for three hours, then cooled to
room temperature. The extract was filtered and
concentrated using a rotaryevaporator.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry Benzyl alcohol was added as a preservative
(www.GCImagazine.com) at 1% w/w. The sample was tested microbiologi-
cally after 24 hr and the microbiological limits
so treatment using the gel was uninterrupted (-22.91%; p < 0.0017), pustules (-30.84%; p <
throughout the course of the study. During the 0.0042) and the sum of papules and pustules
final dermatological exam at the end of the trial, (-14.69%; p < 0.0005). The beginning and fourth
no participants showed signs of developing any week mean values are depicted in Figure 1 on
pathological skin disorders in the test areas. Page 68.
The preparation was therefore well-tolerated
and did not cause unwanted skin reactions. The Discussion
general impression was satisfactory. As noted, acne affects most of the popula-
The differences in the total numbers of pap- tion at some point and is not subject to a
ules and pustules are depicted in Table 2 and specific demographic group or sex. Adolescents
Table 3, respectively; the overall differences of continue to be the most widely affected by acne,
acne symptoms concerning the sum of papules however, almost 30% of all patients treated for
and pustules are depicted in Table 4. acne are older than 24 years of age. In fact, 50%
The herbal anti-acne spot gel significantly of women who experience acne do so during
improved acne symptoms including papules their adult years.12
variants were studied in vivo and in vitro.10,11,14 var. botrytis/cauliflower and var. italica/broccoli,
The genus Brassica contains high amounts to obtain a synergistic effect. Furthermore,
of glucosinolates, which are metabolized to these plants have been and are consumed
isothiocyanates and later, sulforaphane. These worldwide without any adverse effects reported.
nitrogen and sulfur containing products are At the end of the fourth week, the clinical
proven to be the cause of health-promoting outcomes were highly significant in terms
effects of these plants.11, 14 Interestingly, of changes in the total numbers of papules,
in our search of the literature, we found pustules and the sum of two. This data is very
many anti-acne clinical studies with other encouraging, as most clinical dermatologists
plant extracts,1,7,9 but data was lacking for would agree that four weeks is a short period
B.oleracea. to treat acne vulgaris. The results would most
Due to the health-promoting properties of likely be more striking if the treatment period
this species, especially anti-inflammatory and were extended.
antimicrobial effects, and also considering
the pathogenesis of acne described above, we Conclusions
hypothesized its potential anti-acne efficacy and Although more clinical investigations are
designed the preliminary study described here. needed, this preliminary data gives evidence
We selected the two variants of B. oleracea, i.e., that the described herbal anti-acne formulation
is highly effective, causing no irritation in mild 11. MS Hifnawy, RM Abdelsalam, MA Rabeh and MA
Aboseada, Glucosinolates, glycosidically bound volatiles
to moderate acne and most importantly, offers and antimicrobial activity of Brassica oleracea var. botrytis
an alternative to classical anti-acnemedications. (soultany cultivar), J Biology, Agriculture and Healthcare
3(17) 66-81 (2013)
12. D Thiboutot, AF Alexis and LH Kircik, Demystifying acne
References algorithms, J Drugs Dermatol 10(6S) 5-27 (2011)
1. P Sinha, S Srivastava, N Mishra and NP Yadav, New per- 13. V Grahame, DC Dick, CM Morton, O Watkins and KG
spectives on anti-acne plant drugs: Contribution to modern Power, The psychological correlates of treatment efficacy in
therapeutics, Biomed Res Int 301304 (2014) acne, Dermatol Psychosom 3 119-125 (2002)
2. L Chularojanamontri, P Tuchinda, K Kulthanan and K 14. EJ Cho, YA Lee, HH Yoo and T Yokozawa, Protective
Pongparit, Moisturizers for acne: What are their constituents? effects of broccoli (Brassica oleracea) against oxidative
JClin Aesthet Dermatol 7(5) 36-44 (2014) damage invitro and in vivo, J Nutr Sci Vitaminol 52 437-444
3. EJ Keri and LS Nield, Acne, rosacea and hidradenitis (2006)
supurativa, in General Dermatology, K Schwarzenberger, 15. C Burgess, Topical vitamins, J Drugs Dermatol 7(7S) 2-6
AEWerchniak and CJ Ko, eds, Saunders Elsevier, Edinburgh (2008)
305-313 (2008)
16. ZD Draelos, A Matsubara and K Smiles, The effect of 2%
4. WA Fisk, HA Lev-Tov and RK Sivamani, Botanical and niacinamide on facial sebum production, J Cosmet Laser
phytochemical therapy of acne: A systematic review, Phytoter Ther 8(2) 96-101 (2006)
Res 28(8) 1137-1152 (2014)
5. AC Bhatia and F Jimenez, Rapid treatment of mild acne with
a novel skin care system containing 1% salycilic acid, 10%
buffered glycolic acid and botanical ingredients, J Drugs
Dermatol 13(6) 678-683 (2014) C&T Daily Newsletter
6. AM Dattner, From medical herbalism to phytotherapy in der-
matology: Back to the future. Dermatol Ther 16(2) 106-113
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
(2003) delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
7. J Reuter, I Merfort and CM Schempp, Botanicals in dermatol-
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
ogy: An evidence-based review, Am J Clin Dermatol 11(4)
247-267 (2010)
8. M Kanlayavattanakul and N Lourith, Therapeutic agents and
herbs in topical application for acne treatment, Int J Cosm Sci
33 289-297 (2011)
9. S Kapoor and S Saraf, Topical herbal therapies: An alternative C&T Online
and complementary choice to combat acne, Res J Med Plant
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5(6) 650-669 (2011)
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10. MW Jang and BJ Ha, Effects of broccoli on anti-inflammation
and anti-oxidation according to extraction solvent, J Fd Hyg
Safety 27(4) 461-465 (2012)
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract Wheat Germ Butter, International Cosmetic Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate
Science Centre A/S Amitose DGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Phytol JOJO Clear, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Additional Functions: Glosser, Moisturizer,
Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Wheat Germ Oil, International Cosmetic
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Science Centre A/S Camellia Sinensis Oil
Jojoba Oil, Colorless Organic, MORRE-TEC Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Tea Tree Seed Oil, International Cosmetic
Industries, Inc. Smoothing Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
inflammatory, Lubricant Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed
Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Cranberry Seed Oil, International Cosmetic
Squalane Science Centre A/S Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Neossance Squalane, Amyris Inc. Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Hemp Seed Oil Unrefined, International
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment- Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Chapped Skin Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Squalene, Pentahydrosqualene
Vegetable Squalene from Olive Oil, Squaolive Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Antistatic Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Phytol Chardonnay, Custom Ingredients,
Agent, Hair Conditioner, Refatting Agent Inc. Ceramide 3
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, CustoNatural Ceramide, Custom
Antioxidant, Moisturizer Ingredients, Inc.
MOISTURIZER Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
CustoGaia Oat Powder, Custom Ingredients, CustoGaia Indian Hemp, Custom
Alcohol, Water (aqua), Lecithin Inc. Ingredients, Inc.
Lipobelle Glacier, Mibelle Biochemistry
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Betula Alba Juice, Glycerin Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract
Soothing Calmosensine SP, Croda CustoGaia Lime PG, Custom Ingredients,
Inc.
Procedure: Combine A and mix until clear. Add B to build viscosity. Mix until clear and Procedure: Under mixing, combine B in order. Add B to A and homogenize. Slowly
desired viscosity is achieved. Add ingredients of C one by one with mixing. add C to the others with moderate stirring. Add D to batch. Mix until completely
homogenized. Adjust pH with E. Homogenize well.
Squalane Skin Care Procedure: Separately heat A and B at 8085C. Add B to A. Maintain temp for 10
(Centerchem Inc.) min under moderate stirring. Stop heating and keep homogenizing until temp reaches
60C. Add C to AB. Mix until homogenized. Add D in order at 45C. Homogenize.
A. Water (aqua) 78.70% w/w
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.25
B. Glycerin 2.00 Anti-Inflammatory Cream Gel for Oily Skin
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
(Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 1.00 A. Water (aqua) 83.26% w/w
Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract 5.00 Sodium Polyacrylate 1.60
C. Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris Inc.) 10.00 Propanediol 3.00
PEG-40 Stearate 2.75 B. Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F Forte, CLR Chemisches
D. Sodium Hydroxide (and) Water (aqua) (NaOH, Spectrum Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Chemical Mfg. Corp.) 0.30 Tocopherol 0.02
100.00 C. Water (aqua) (and) Taraktogenos Kurzii Seed Oil (and) Nigella
Sativa Seed Oil (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Oil (and)
Procedure: In main vessel, add A with mixing and mix until uniform. Add B into main
Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids (and) Palm
vessel. Mix until uniform and begin heating to 65-70C. Combine C in a separate
Glycerides (and) Capryloyl Glycine (and) Magnolia
vessel and heat to 65-70C. Add C slowly into main vessel with moderate mixing.
Grandiflora Bark Extract (Cutipure CLR, CLR Chemisches
Mix for 10 min. Homogenize briefly and then begin cooling. When batch has reached
40C, add D to neutralize pH to 5.5-6.5; increase amount as needed to be within this Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
range. QS with water.
Procedure: Heat A with agitation to 60C. Separately heat B to 60C. Homogenize A. Sodium Hydroxide 0.28% w/w
B in A for a sufficient time to ensure good emulsification. Stir and cool to 45C. Add Water (aqua) 78.72
C to batch. Butylene Glycol 4.0
Butylene Glycol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract (and)
Anti-Blemish, Soothing Light Emulsion Rabdosia Rubescens Extract (Chromocare , Sederma) 3.0
B. Dimethyl Isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI, Croda) 2.0
(Croda)
Salicylic Acid 0.5
This light-weight serum, especially formulated for oily and blemish-prone skin, provides C. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Crodamol GTCC, Croda) 3.0
outstanding oil control when used twice daily. Sebuless has proven benefits for a num- Polydiethysiloxane 3.0
ber of trouble spots plaguing consumers with oily skin. Sebuless reduces inflammatory Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5
blemishes by half in one month, while also significantly fading the appearance of red D. Polyquaternium-37 (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6
spots and limiting the accumulation of dead skin cells that leads to clogged pores. (and) Water (aqua) (VisCaress HPD, Croda) 5.0
A. Water (aqua) 88.23% w/w
Carbomer 0.45 Procedure: Combine A and heat to 60C while blade mixing. In a separate
Glycerin 2.00 vessel, combine B; mix until homogenous and heat to 60C. Add B to A;
B. Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Decyl Isostearate (Crodamol SSA, maintain temp. In a separate vessel, combine C; mix until homogenous and
Croda Europe Ltd.) 3.00 add to AB with fast mixing. Add D with fast mixing; when thickens to gel,
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda Europe Ltd.) 2.00 switch to sweep blade. Cool with slow sweep mixing.
This light-feeling water-in-oil (W/O) formulation spreads well, covers evenly and has Procedure: Add A into a clean beaker and heat until the wax is completely melted.
built-in water resistance, enhanced by the use of two emollients with barrier charac- Prepare B in another beaker and heat to 70C. Add A into B with stirring. Remove
teristics. Combining organic and inorganic sunscreen actives, along with placement mixture from hot plate and continue to stir. Once the emulsion is formed, add C slowly
of the actives in both the aqueous and emollient phases, allows for a high SPF with a into the emulsion and mix until completely dissolved. Transfer the emulsion to a roll-on
relatively low level of active. The formula achieves protection beyond broad spectrum container when it cools to RT.
with a critical wave length of 377.8 nm. The success of the formulation is attributed to
Zemea Propanediol keeping the water-soluble actives in solution through the evapora-
tion process when the product is applied to the skin. Deodorant Stick
A. Water (aqua) 54.60% w/w (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) This colorless/white and opaque deodorant stick is stable for more than three months
Glycerin (Spectrastat, INOLEX) 0.80 at 20C, 40C and 4C.
Benzophenone-4 2.00
A. Water (aqua) 18.00% w/w
B. Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle
Bio Products) 10.00
Bio Products) 45.00
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232, EMD
Glycerin 20.00
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 3.00
B. Sodium Hydroxide 9.50
C. Triethanolamine qs
C. Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (Palmera B1802, KLK Oleo) 6.00
D. Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (aqua) (and) Polyglyceryl-2
D. Ethylhexylglycerin 0.75
Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.75
Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Stearic Acid (and)
100.00
Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane
(Solaveil XT-40W, Croda) 3.00 Procedure: Heat A to 8595C and stir until clear. Add and dissolve B. Add C to AB
E. Acetylated Hydrogenated Vegetable Glyceride 15.00 little by little and stir until completely dissolved. Add solution of D. Add and dissolve
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 2.50 E. Poor into molds at 8085C.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina
(Solaveil AT-300, Croda) 3.00 Ecocert Compliant Natural Body Wash
Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
A. Water (aqua) 48.73% w/w
(Xperse 201, EverZinc) 3.00
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer 3.00
Products) 3.00
F. Silica Dimethyl Silylate 0.10
B. Coco-Glucoside (and) Sodium Coco-sulfate (Surfacare AGS,
100.00
Galaxy Surfactants Limited) 46.20
Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Lauryl Alcohol (Cetiol LDO, BASF SE) 0.50
Procedure: Add B to A. Add C until AB is clear. Add D with propeller stirring. Add
C. Benzyl Alcohol 0.50
ABCD to E very slowly with propeller stirring. Add F with propeller stirring. Homog-
enize until glossy.
D. Sodium Phytate 0.25
E. Citric Acid 0.82
100.00
Procedure: Mix A together. Mix B together and add to A. Add C to AB. Add D to ABC.
Adjust pH to 5.05.5 with E. Add sodium chloride as needed for viscosity of 4,000 cps.
Procedure: In the main vessel, add A and mix until homogeneous. Add B to A incre- Jojoba-Mac Body Butter
mentally and mix until homogeneous. Add C to AB and mix thoroughly. (Floratech)
This rich-bodied, creamy moisturizer contains a blend of jojoba esters, macadamia
Lemon Sorbet Lotion oil and cocoa butter. The product highlights the oxidatively stable emolliency of both
(Earth Supplied Products LLC) jojoba esters and high-oleic sunflower seed oil.
This formulation highlights the benefits of the companys NOP formulation base, the A. Water (aqua) qs 100.00% w/w
only emulsifier needed to produce an elegant, white, stable, low-odor emulsion. The EDTA (Versene 100, NA2, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.03
natural purity of this lotion is optimized with NOP Organic ingredients. To preserve B. Glycerin (Glycerin, The Dow Chemical Company) 5.00
the system, a preservative-free, antimicrobial alternative blend of organic materials is Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco) 0.30
used to create a formulation environment that is unfriendly to microbial growth, yet C. Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (Floramac Macadamia Oil,
safe for users. Floratech) 5.00
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 30, Floratech) 3.00
A. Water (aqua) 69.70% w/w
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 15, Floratech) 1.00
B. Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum (ESP Organic
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 5.00
Guar Gum, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 0.75