Niha Naveed /J. Pharm. Sci. & Res. Vol.

6(10), 2014, 338-341

The Perils of Cosmetics

Niha Naveed
BDS Student, Saveetha Dental College and Hospitals

Abstract
Cosmetics have long been known to enhance the appearance or odour of the human body. In a society obsessed with beauty, people are
lured to fake their appearance as a cure for their insecurities. Today, cosmetic industry is a 20 billion dollar global industry. As a
consumer, we are constantly enticed to use an array of very promising beauty and personal care products. But these products, which are
supposed to make us feel healthy and beautiful have a deep dark side. Toxic ingredients and hazardous chemicals are being used beyond
acceptable limits. Carcinogens in bubble baths, lead in lipsticks, paraben in sunscreens, phthalates in perfumery and coal tar in shampoos
are few of the ugly truths of cosmetics. Cosmetics have not only seeped into the fashion world but are also playing a prominent role in
ones day-to-day life. Thus, it becomes a necessity to unveil the hidden truth of cosmetics and to make people aware of its ill-effects.

Key Words: cosmetics, parabens, allergies, carcinogens, sensitisation, dermatitis.

INTRODUCTION and on an average, a man uses 6 personal care products

Beauty is only skin deep, but the products we use to with around 85 unique ingredients. According to a research,
enhance it contain chemicals that may penetrate far deeper. of the 10,500 chemical ingredients used in personal care
Cosmetic products may be classified into various types products, only 11% have been safely assessed. In addition
such as [1]: to allergens, cosmetics and toiletries contain several
1. Decorative products eg: make-up hazardous ingredients including 100 carcinogens and 15
2. Nail care products eg: polish and removers endocrine disruptors particularly phthalates [2]. The skin is
3. Skin care products eg: moisturizers the largest organ of the body; over 70% of what is placed
4. Soaps and bath additives eg : bubble bath over the skin manages to seep into the body and the
5. Oral hygiene products eg: toothpaste and mouthwash bloodstream. The various harmful allergens present in
6. Shaving products eg: foams, after shave cosmetics may be grouped under phthalates, parabens,
7. Sun protection eg: sunscreen creams and lotions metals, chlorofluorocarbon propellants, dioxanes etc. Some
8. Hair care products eg: shampoo, dyes, regrowth of the harmful chemicals present in cosmetic products are
treatment coal tar colours (make-up and hair dye), diethanolamine
9. Fragrances eg: perfumes and colognes (shampoo), formaldehyde and its releasers (eye shadow,
10. Deodorants and antiperspirents mascara, nail polish, shampoo, blush etc), glycol ethers
11. Foot care products eg: antifungicides (deodorant, perfume), lead (hair dyes, lipsticks), mercury
12. Baby care products eg: baby salve, baby oil, baby (skin-lightening cream), parabens (deodorant, shampoo,
powder cream, baby product, shaving cream, make-up etc),
Cosmetic products that we use every day contain certain phenylenediamine (hairdyes), phthalates (fragrance,
chemicals which are known to or are suspected to be toxic nailpolish, hair products, cream, lotion etc). [3] [4]
including endocrine disruptors, sensitizers, carcinogens and
neurotoxins. We dont think of cosmetics such as make-up COSMETICS AND CANCER
and shampoos as sources of exposure to toxins which may Children and adults are exposed to multiple carcinogens
lead to an increased risk of breast cancer and other dreadful present in personal care products. According to the
health problems. For instance, there are some ingredients in Environmental Working Groups skin deep database, one in
cosmetics which act like hormone estrogen in the human five personal care products contain atleast one ingredient
body, and most breast tumours depend on estrogen to grow. related to cancer. Studies show that higher estrogen
Generally, one-time use of a product containing toxic exposures increases the risk of breast cancer in an
chemicals may not trigger any serious manifestation and individuals life. This raises the concern about repeated
pose a health risk. The problem may arise from a long-term exposures to estrogen-mimicking chemicals and hormones
low-dose exposure to toxic chemicals such as one product in cosmetics. Several case studies link hormone containing
or a combination of products daily, year after year. Some cosmetics with early sexual development. The early and
toxic chemicals in cosmetic products can build up in our life-long use of such products especially by African-
body over time with a risk of serious malignancies. There is American women maybe a factor for the increased risks of
an impressive array of cosmetic products in the market breast cancer among them. A new study published in the
today with an even greater number of individual Journal of Paediatrics revealed a large increase in the
ingredients. The number of new products continues to number of American girls who are entering puberty as early
increase and the rates of adverse cutaneous reactions are as 7 or 8 years of age. Studies link an early start to
expected to rise. Therefore, given the widespread use of menstruation with elevated risk of breast cancer. Hair dyes
cosmetics, it is important to monitor their side-effects. It is are linked to high cancer rates due to the presence of coal
estimated that an average woman uses 12 personal care tars and PPD. Thus salon workers show an increased risk of
products daily which comprise of 168 unique ingredients non-hodgkins lymphoma and bladder cancer. Skin

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lighteners which contain hydroquinone and heavy metals breast milk, and one recent study found that it interferes
are carcinogenic and hence they have been banned in many with testosterone activity in cells.
countries. Anti-bacterial soaps unlike regular soaps are 2. Coal Tar
linked to cancer like thyroid cancer and they contain Coal tar, a known human carcinogen is used as an active
triclosan. OSHA, NHI and WHO named 125 cosmetic ingredient in dandruff shampoos and anti-itch creams.
chemicals that are suspected carcinogens and mutagens, out Coal-tar-based dyes such as FD&C Blue 1, used in
of which nine are absorbed to 43% of the applied dose toothpastes, and FD&C Green 3, used in mouthwash, have
according to a study in 1970. [5] Even small exposures of been found to be carcinogenic in animal studies when
such chemicals can add up culminating in dreadful cancers. injected under the skin.
One-thirds of the cosmetic products containing chemicals 3. Diethanolamine (DEA)
are linked to cancer. [6] DEA is a hormone disruptor, with limited evidence of
carcinogenic property and is known to deplete the body of
ENDOCRINE DISRUPTING CHEMICALS IN COSMETICS choline needed for fetal brain development. DEA can also
Personal care products are a major source of exposure to show up as a contaminant in products containing related
endocrine-disrupting chemicals. According to a recent chemicals, such as cocamide DEA.
study, an average of 13 hormone-disrupting cosmetic 4. 1,4-Dioxane
chemicals was traced in the urine of teenage girls, including 1,4-Dioxane is a human carcinogen that can appear as a
parabens, triclosans and phthalates. These are common contaminant in products containing sodium laureth sulfate
ingredients used in cosmetics. Oxybenzone which is found and ingredients that include the terms "PEG," "-xynol,"
in sunscreens is a hormone disruptor in human beings. "ceteareth," "oleth" and most other ethoxylated "eth"
Phthalates are hormone-disrupting chemicals. Studies show ingredients. The FDA monitors products for the
that phthalates reduce female fertility and can cause contaminant but has not yet recommended an exposure
premature breast development in young women. Phthalates limit. Manufacturers can remove dioxane through vacuum
in a mothers body can effect the fetal development of her stripping. A 2007 survey by the Campaign for Safe
child. Baby boys whose mothers were exposed to high Cosmetics found that most children's bath products contain
levels of phthalates are more likely to have abnormal 10 ppm or less, but an earlier 2001 survey by the FDA
genital development and altered levels of testosterone. In found levels in excess of 85 ppm.
males, phthalates lower the sperm count, reduce sperm 5. Formaldehyde
motility, and damages it. Endocrine disrupting chemicals Formaldehyde has adverse effects on health, which
have been linked to obesity as well. Several animal studies includes immune-system toxicity, respiratory irritation and
show that exposing mice to endocrine disruptors, including cancer in humans. Yet it still turns up in baby bath soap,
phthalates, causes them to become more obese. [6] nail polish, eyelash adhesive and hair dyes as a contaminant
or break-down product of diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl
ALLERGIES TO COSMETIC INGREDIENTS urea and quaternium compounds.
Despite intensive efforts being taken to formulate 6. Fragrance
hypoallergenic cosmetic products, skin irritations and The term "fragrance" may imply phthalates, which act as
allergic contact dermatitis occur in many people. In endocrine disruptors and may cause
addition to eczema, there may be burning and itching Obesity, reproductive and developmental harm. Phthalates
sensations without visible lesions. Allergic responses are should be avoided by selecting essential-oil fragrances.
considered adverse health effects. Thus, skin sensitisation 7. Lead and Mercury
caused by cosmetic allergens are no different from Neurotoxic lead may be present in certain cosmetic
toxicological hazards. Sensitisation of the skin is a critical products as a naturally occurring contaminant of hydrated
event which evokes an acquired and irreversible silica, one of the ingredients in toothpaste, and lead acetate
immunological change, making the body more susceptible is found in some brands of men's hair dye. The mercury
to these harmful chemicals.[7] 62% of women and 325 of found in the preservative thimerosol, is used in some
men say that they have sensitive skin. Sensitisation mascaras and is known to cause damage to the brain.
gradually takes place when the skin is exposed to a product 8. Nanoparticles
several number of times [8]. It may occur through direct or Tiny nanoparticles, which may penetrate the skin and
indirect contact, hand contact, air contact, vicarious contact damage brain cells, are appearing in an increasing number
or by exposure to sun. Of all the chemicals, of cosmetics and sunscreens. Most problematic are zinc
methylisothiazolinone has been recently found to oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles, used in
potentially pose a health risk to the consumers by causing sunscreens to make them transparent. Look for sunscreens
allergies. [9] containing particles of these ingredients larger than 100
nm. These days, a few manufacturers have started
HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS IN COSMETICS [10] advertising their lack of nanoparticle-sized ingredients on
1. Antibacterials labels.
Overuse of antibacterials affect their effectiveness in 9. Parabens
fighting disease-causing organisms such as E. coli and (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, isobutyl-) Parabens, which
Salmonella enterica. Triclosan which is widely used in have weak estrogenic effects, are common preservatives
soaps, toothpastes and deodorants, has been detected in that appear in a wide array of toiletries. According to a

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study, butyl paraben damaged sperm formation in the testes allergy in 2% of the test patients. Ammonium thioglycolate
of mice, and sodium methylparaben, is banned in cosmetics may also cause dermatitis.[11]
by the E.U. Parabens break down in the body into p-
hydroxybenzoic acid, which has estrogenic activity in ALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS
human breast-cancer cell cultures. Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is an immunologic
10. Petroleum Distillates reaction in the skin. This allergic response occurs only
Petroleum distillates which are possible human carcinogens when an individuals immune system is sensitized to the
are prohibited or restricted for use in cosmetics in the E.U. allergen.[14] ACD is usually accompanied by intense
but are found in several U.S. brands of mascara, foot-odour itching. Allergic dermatitis due to cosmetics can be present
powder and other products. in different forms [5] :
11. p-Phenylenediamine Pruritus: Itching in the area of application of cosmetic
It is commonly found in hair dyes and can bring damage to product.
the nervous system, causing lung irritation and severe Erythema: It is a redness without any alteration in the depth
allergic manifestations. It's also listed as 1,4- or surface of the skin which disappears when pressed with
Benzenediamine; p-Phenyldiamine and 4- the finger.
Phenylenediamine. Eczematids: Pink plaques covered by fine scales although
12.Hydroquinone not very itchy.
Found in skin lighteners and facial moisturizers, Acute eczema: An allergen which triggers immunological
hydroquinone is neurotoxic and allergenic, and there's rejection response in the host which results in itching,
limited evidence that it may cause cancer in lab animals. It redness, oedema, vesicles and oozing on continuous
may also appear as an impurity not listed on ingredients application. The skin becomes covered with a scab which
labels. sheds off exposing a healthy, pink and fragile skin.
Chronic eczema: It is dry, cracked and chabbed causing
COSMETIC ALLERGENS severe itching. It does not ooze out unlike acute eczema.
Cosmetic allergens responsible for ACD are classified into Scratching leads to thickening of skin called lichenification.
several categories: fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, Urticaria: Red lesions which are projecting and oedematous
botanicals, UV absorbers, acrylates, hair dyes, nail varnish in different sized plaques and extremely itchy.
ingredients, and others. Pigmentation: Alteration in the skin colour.
Fragrances: Fragrances is the most common cause of Difference between allergic and irritant dermatitis [5] :
contact allergy. They can be naturally derived from plants It becomes necessary to know the difference between
or synthesized in the laboratory. Although there are more irritant and allergic dermatitis because the prognosis and
than 5000 different fragrance chemicals, 95% of the the treatment plan are completely different for the two.
fragrance allergic patients can be identified by testing the
following 11 substances; cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamic
alcohol, geraniol, eugenol, isoeugenol, oak moss absolute,
alpha-amyl cinnamic alcohol, sandalwood oil,
hydroxycitronellal, narcissus absolute, and ylang-ylang oil.
[11] [12]
Preservatives: Preservatives are classified as the most
common cosmetic contact allergens. They may be
antimicrobials, antioxidants and UV absorbers.
Formaldehyde preservatives, formaldehyde releasers, and
non-formaldehyde releasing preservatives are the
antimicrobial agents. [13]
Balsam of Peru: Balsam of Peru is an aromatic fluid which
comes from the bark of a native tree in central America. It
is a complex mixture of many ingredients including
benzoyl cinnamate, benzoyl benzoate, vanillin and
nerodilol. Besides being used as a fragrant, it is used as an
antifungal, antibacterial and antiscabetic compound. [11]
[13]
In sunscreens: Paraaminobenzoic acid and benzophenone-3
are the most common sunscreen sensitizer. Avobenzene
and derivatives of PABA such as benzophenones,
cinnamates, and dibenzoyl methanes may cause photo-
allergic dermatitis.[11]
Allergens in hair care products: Paraphenylenediamine
(PPD), a common hair colouring chemical causes allergy in
almost 5% of the women. Glycerol thioglycolate can cause

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METALS IN COSMETICS CONCLUSION

Mercury or mercuric salts are used as an active ingredient In todays world, exposure to man-made chemicals has
in skin lighteners as it removes blotchy spots and lightens become unavoidable. We breathe polluted air, we drink
the skin complexion. It interferes with melanin formation polluted water, because we dont have a choice. However,
thus giving the skin a lighter tone. Mercury absorbed we do have a choice when it comes to our personal care
through the skin from prolonged exposure can damage the products. We can limit our exposure by avoiding products
brain, nervous system and kidneys. It may also cause rashes that contain harmful chemicals. Alternatively, one can buy
and skin irritation. Pregnant women who use mercury products that are natural and safe. There is something
containing cosmetics may not experience symptoms of disturbing about sacrificing our health and that of our
mercury poisoning but the fetus is poisoned [15]. Lead, a planet and calling the result beauty. Such a sacrifice is
proven neurotoxin, is a heavy metal which is harmful to the unnecessary, as conventional standards of beauty can be
developing brain. 61% of the tested brand-name lipsticks achieved cheaply, safely, and greenly. We dont need to
contain about .03 to.65 ppm of lead. Lead also causes limit ourselves to the cosmetic industrys definition of
learning, language and behavioural problems. Lead easily beauty. True beauty transcends the limits of what any
crosses through the placenta and enters the brain of the cosmetic can do. If cosmetics are to be used, natural
fetus thus interfering with normal development. [16] The cosmetic products and make-up are safer, healthier
average use of some lipsticks and lip glosses would result alternatives because they are composed of all natural
in excessive exposure to chromium, a carcinogen linked to ingredients. Caution is required when products claim to be
stomach tumors. High use of these makeup products could natural. For instance, they may contain small amounts of
result in potential overexposure to aluminum, cadmium and plant extracts, but the bulk of the product is petroleum
manganese as well. Over time, exposure to high based and loaded with fragrances [21]. Instead, consider
concentrations of manganese has been linked to toxicity in switching to completely natural products, which perform to
the nervous system. [17] the same standard as their non-natural counterparts.
Switching to all-natural cosmetic products and make-up
HAZARDS IN BABY PRODUCTS can help you to avoid feeding your skin harmful chemicals.
Childrens bath products are often labelled as gentle and Many skin problems, such as acne, contact dermatitis,
soft. But on the contrary, they are pose a dangerous risk. irritations and allergies may disappear once petroleum or
Recent research studies show the presence of formaldehyde synthetic ingredients are removed from your skin care
and 1,4 dioxanes in baby products. These substances are regimen. Using fully natural products can contribute to
carcinogens and they may trigger contact dermatitis and healthy skin and a healthy body in the long term.
other such conditions. [18] Formaldehyde procedures have
been associated with leukemia and it is also a skin, eye and REFERENCES
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