Fiberglass - A Fact Check

Amongst popular boat building mediums, what we call fiberglass is no doubt the
best suited for todays pleasure vessels. Fiberglass composites afford the
manufacturer repeated production out of the same base investment and the material
lends itself to forms difficult to achieve in other mediums, such as metals. For
owners, composites mean affordability and a relative ease of maintenance.
There is a caveat however and few boat owners are made aware of it, as yacht
brokers and most builders consider it counter productive to their sales to ever
mention such a thing. Those of us who inspect and maintain the boats can see the
problem quite clearly though, and some of us even try to put the point across, but it
seldom hits home to an owner, until its too late.
The greatest pitfalls of fiberglass construction, is without doubt improper
maintenance practices, resultant of a false sense of security in the material.
(Barring of course the few makes and models, that turn out to be an unhealthy
experiment in the first place, such as balsa coring below waterline) What must be
realized is, that fiberglass may be the best material, but is far from the perfect
material. There is no such thing as a perfect material that can stand up to the
ingression of water. Over time, moisture will enter most anything that man or even
nature can concoct.
Professionals in the Marine Industry use such abbreviation as FRP and GRP.
Owners would be doing themselves a world of good by putting the word fiberglass,
which had become synonymous with perfection, out of mind once in a while, and
delve into the meaning of the abbreviations. Whether you use FRP or GRP, it boils
down to fiberglass or glassfiber reinforced polyester.
Yes skippers, captains and mates, our boats are made from a variation of the oil
product that also produces the cheap sweaters that some of us would not be caught
wearing! Truth be told, even todays new composites are for the most part, simply
variations of the old polyester resins, and only time and many years of it, will tell how
good the new material will stand up on the long run.
Consider this: The only thing impervious to moisture ingression in the composition of
our fiberglass boats building material is the glass fibers! The polyester resin, used to
bond the glass fibers together, actually has water soluble components. And, gelcoat
or epoxy between the glassfiber hull and the ocean, is the only paper thin barrier that
keeps the moisture out of our hulls. So, is it important to keep an eye on that
moisture barrier? You bet your bottom! Rightly so, a lot of owners keep a vigil on
their hull bottoms, because there actually is a lot of discussions in the media and
dockside in regards to osmotic conditions that manifest in blistering. Unfortunately
however, the majority of well meaning and caring owners stop at the exterior
waterline, not thinking about what may be taking place elsewhere.
Here is the heads up! The hull bottom and topsides of your boat, especially
considering todays improved lay-up techniques and if it is of non-cored single series
laminate, may be the least of your worries. When a Surveyor discovers unusually
high moisture levels and blistering on your bottom, chances are the gelcoat had
failed. This is par for the course in the life of most all FRP structures. The gelcoat
can be removed, the laminate dried out and an epoxy moisture barrier applied,
returning your hull bottom to perfectly acceptable condition. Remember, your hull
bottoms skin contain some of the most robust laminates of the entire structure, thus
stand up the best. But when stringers, frames, transoms and decks are ignored, very
 major deficiencies can develop unseen and undetected until it is way too late, and
repairing requires such involvement that may not even be feasible to undertake. In
most cases engine and hull stringers, transverse frames, bulkheads and decks will
incorporate some kind of coring. In the case of transoms, stringers, frames, and
bulkheads it is usually some wood, such as fir timbers or fir plywood that is encased
in relatively thin FRP. Decks will be a sandwich of balsa, a wood that is not unlike a
sponge, or in better cases some closed cell foam. Through invisible laminate cracks
or a poorly laid laminate, moisture can and will enter and wet the core, and if left
alone, will progress into saturation and loss of structural stiffness. When this
happens, repairing of the damage can be very expensive, and most of the time this
sort of thing comes as a surprise to an owner who thinks his or her boat is in perfect
shape. To get at a vessels stringers and frames, her interior must be removed. To
repair decks, they have to be cut open and completely rebuilt from the exterior. All
skilled work and all very costly. Powerboats are more so at risk than sailboats, as flat
bottom sections, hard chines and transom sterns require more internal stiffening
support. Powerboats under around 35 feet especially, since builders naturally put
less heft into the framing of smaller boats than they do larger vessels. Powerboats
equipped with sterndrive units stand a very good chance of developing transom core
problems because of the stresses involved and the penetrations requiring absolute,
perfect bedding to seal. Decks are equally problematic with sail or power craft.
Decks will always be cored to keep down the weight, and will always be penetrated
by hardware fastenings that invite wetting of the core. Builders seldom take the time
to properly bed deck hardware fastenings, because to do it right it is messy job, and
it takes time to clean up after. Owners never think of pulling and re-bedding deck
hardware or such items as transducer or trim tab fastenings into transoms, in spite of
the fact that even the most well respected polyurethane or polysulfide marine caulks
have a limited service life.
With what we know today about laminates constructed of polyester resins,
taking preventive steps of early detection becomes the most imperative action
in fiberglass boat ownership.
Owners of boats with expensive internal combustion engines, like larger diesels, take
precautionary measures by conducting regular oil analysis in order to determine
wear trends, and they do it by comparing annual results. Actually, this goes for not
only boats, but heavy equipment, locomotives, aircraft, highway trucks, even cars.
Why? Because diesel propulsion engines are expensive equipment. Are the hulls
and structural components of our boats not considered expensive?
Fiberglass boat owners simply must wake up to the fact that they should be doing
the same for hull and structure dont take it for granted, look and see if all is OK.
That is, if they care about preserving a vessels integrity, if they want their boats
structural components to remain within the acceptable and normal processes of
gradual deterioration, and if they care to ensure expected resale values. Today, we
have moisture detecting instruments that in the right hands, can be used to gain
knowledge of chemical processes taking place within a laminate, induced by
moisture. Put it plain, we can point a finger at trouble brewing. Literally brewing
within the laminate...mostly out of sight and out of mind. The old fashioned method of
acoustical sounding, which this writer has some good twenty years of experience
with and still considers very much a useful tool in our profession, can only discover
conditions that have already deteriorated to soggy proportions. A good low frequency
instrument, properly interpreted by an experienced user can save a vessels life and
the owners investment, simply by detecting moisture when it is not yet a wide
 spread or saturated situation. It only makes sense, that if we are able to detect a
deficiency at early stages of progression, then we can repair it in a more feasible
manner. Most reputable Marine Surveyors will be happy to engage in a dialogue with
a vessel owner in regards to taking moisture readings of certain structural
components on an annual basis, producing a written record of such readings, and
doing it at an affordable rate, reflecting the limited nature of the assignment. My
Marine Surveying practice is in the Province of Ontario, so I can speak only for my
region. I see a major problem with some of the older boats we survey, and I hear the
cries of Buyers and Brokers: There is nothing out there. I agree. The eighties boats
are getting old and troublesome, and many sales are lost due to discoveries of show
stopping magnitude, made by attending Surveyors. My experience shows that there
are no winners when this happens. I get paid, and I see everyone walking away
disappointed.
Including the would be buyer.
For the sake of the nineties boats, I think it is in the interest of all of us involved with
boats and boating to realize, that healthy competition amongst manufacturers may
build a better boat, but the end users must learn about the product, its limitations
and its realistic maintenance needs.
There may be a perfect plastic in the world of credit cards, but when you take a
piece of plastic imbedded with wood, foam, all kinds of dissimilar metals weighing
tons, lube oils, fuels, two different kinds of electrical current, add lots of internal and
external forces and throw it repeatedly against a hard surface such as waterwell,
you get the picture. With proper maintenance, which involves caring not only for the
obvious but also for what is out of sight and is out of mind, unpleasant surprises can
be avoided, and we can bring that fiberglass structure a little closer to our
preconceived state of perfection.

To Buy or Not to Buy . . . .

A Blistered Boat, That Is.

by David Pascoe
One of the most frequently asked questions that a marine surveyor gets is, "Should I buy a
boat that has blisters?" This is a question that I've wrangled with for many years, and after a
great deal of research involving thousands of boats. This essay will answer your questions a
bit more directly than some of our more detailed blister essays, which many of you found
hard to understand. That's understandable because this is a very complex subject. But be
prepared that the answer is populated with a lot of ifs, ands, and buts.
Let's face it, an awful lot of boats have blisters, so that finding one that doesn't (or won't get
them) can be a difficult proposition. The short answer is that if at all possible, you should try
to avoid that, if for no other reason than the potential expense you may face in the future.
That expense may not result from the absolute necessity to repair the blisters, but the position
you may find yourself in when it comes time to sell the boat. Particularly with newer model
boats, say 1 - 3 years old, it is not unusual for buyers demand a reduction in price, or that the
blisters be repaired.

For older boats, its usually much less of a problem, for the fact is that moderate blistering on
an older boat rarely impedes the sale. Unfortunately, another fact of boating life is that there
is a great deal of misinformation on this much talked-about subject. One common
misconception is that blisters seriously weaken and/or damage boat hulls. In 30 years of
surveying and examining around 4000 hulls, I have seen less than 10 cases where blisters
have resulted in serious structural degradation of a hull where it was weakened to a point
where some type of failure was immanent.

What is a blister?

First, let's understand that all fiberglass hulls absorb water to some degree because both the
gel coat finish on the exterior, and the fiberglass reinforced plastic is porous. Since water is a
solvent, it will react with the plastic resulting in the water and solvents in the plastic mixing
to create a weak solvent solution, usually with styrene. This then softens the gel coat
somewhat and, combined with a bit of gas or fluid pressure, results in the blister.

Moisture Meters

Here's a subject I get a lot of questions about, and one that I want to address it upfront. Since
I have already stated that all fiberglass boats absorb water to some degree, and often without
causing blistering, it follows that the use of a moisture meter is useless. If you doubt this,
please see the essay Illustration of Water Absorption From Hull Interior on this site. It shows
a hull that has been completely water saturated for 10 years, but has not developed blisters.
Moisture meters measure only the surface moisture, and since gel coat and paint is very
porous, the moisture meter is only going to tell you what you already know; its wet. It cannot
tell you anything about the propensity of a hull to blister. While these instruments have their
uses, predicting whether a hull is prone to blistering is not one of them. See also Moisture
Meters on Boat Hulls.

Are blisters harmful?

Yes, but. This is a question of how much harm. Blisters form at the interface between the gel
coat and what is called the skinout mat, which is a layer of chopped, short-strand fiberglass
that is used to prevent the coarser weave pattern of heavier fiberglass cloth from telegraphing
through to the finish surface. You've probably seen boats with a checkerboard pattern
showing on the surface, and this is the reason why. Now, fiberglass fabric, being made of
bundles of very fine glass fibers, is very porous also, most especially the outer layer of mat.
Once the gel coat absorbs water, the fibers in the mat that are unsaturated with resin then
spread the water around via the capillary effect.

Blistering involves only the gel coat and surface mat in 99% of the cases. This is due to the
fact that the structural fabrics, such as roving, get saturated better. Its also because the water
is less likely to penetrate beyond the mat and, even if it does, woven fabrics do not have the
weak gel coat factor and are much too strong to allow whatever pressure may develop within
a void to cause a separation. The incidence of blisters occurring within structural laminates is
extremely small.

If the resin used to make the hull is of a lower quality that will react with water, a process
known as hydrolysis, which means nothing more than becoming saturated with water and
dissolving, then the hull is poised to develop blisters. Many other factors also come into play
here, such as how well the mat layer is bonded to the gel coat.

Since the vast majority of blisters occur between the mat and gel coat (depicted in illustration
above), this bond has to be fairly weak for the blistering process to occur. If the bond is
strong, then blisters will not occur, even though there is a lot of water absorption. This is a
very general, even generic, description of the blistering process. There are frequently
numerous other factors involved which I will not address here.

Aside from the damage it causes to the surface, most of the damage done by the blister is to
the gel coat and the skin out mat, which is not a structural part of the hull laminate.
Remember, the mat is only there to prevent the fabric pattern from showing through to the
surface. The obvious question is now, "But isn't the water dissolving the rest of the plastic
resin in the laminate?" The answer to that is "No, its not." At least not to any considerable
degree.

You may have noticed that I have not used the word "osmosis" that we hear so much these
days. Technically, water passing through the porous gel coat is not osmosis; its just water
passing through a porous material. However, the blistering process may involve osmosis, a
process which concentrates solvents within the space formed by the blister void. This
concentration of solvents does indeed dissolve the plastic, but fortunately the amount of fluid
involved is so small that it does not seriously threaten the laminate.

Of course, the larger the blister, the more concentrated solvent is present, the more damage it
will cause. Therefore the amount of damage, and therefore structural weakening caused by
blistering, is directly proportional to size and number of blisters. This explains why only
boats with very large blisters can end up with serious structural weakness problems.

This photo represents a typical case of extensive blisters, small enough to be called pimples.
They are dime-sized and smaller, but no matter how many of them there are, they are very
unlikely to threaten the structural integrity. But they do make sanding and painting the bottom
very difficult, and will cause a slight speed loss on sailboats.

This is one of the few examples we've seen where large blisters threaten the integrity of the
hull. However, the problem here was that the builder used chopped strand mat that was over
1/4" thick on a foam cored hull. The mat absorbed huge amounts of water, creating these
enormous blisters. Thus the real danger to the hull was less a matter of blisters than the way
the builder built the hull. In other words, too much of the structure was invested in a very
weak material. This hull lacked strength to begin with, proven by the fact that it was also
badly delaminated.

Vessel: Irwin 65'

Since the vast majority of boats develop only dime-sized blisters, the amount of damage or
structural degradation resulting is very small, even when the bottom is extensively blistered.
Even boats with numerous blisters up to about 1" in diameter, usually show no significant
weakening of the plastic. The illustration above shows the relationship of blister size to the
laminate thickness. Here it can be seen that even if some of the plastic is dissolved under and
around the blister (indicated by dotted line) in proportion to the overall laminate thickness, its
not much, even when the amount of degradation is above average. The amount of blistering
would have to be truly severe to have even minimal effect.
These conclusions are based on two completely different types of evidence. First is the fact
that physical inspection, probing and sounding rarely reveals softening or degradation in the
area immediately peripheral to the blister. Second, the fact that significant structural
weakening will make its presence known (before failure) in the form of delamination, surface
deformation and stress cracking. The good news is that I know of no reports of these
conditions occurring as a result of blistering, unless the blisters are extremely large. We're
talking here blister 4" and larger, at which point the problem becomes rather obvious. From
these facts I conclude that well over 95% of all hull blistering cases do not cause significant
structural damage to the laminate.

Getting back to our original question, "Should someone buy a boat with blisters?" can be
answered from several viewpoints. If you insist on a boat without blisters, fine, then go try to
find one. If its an older boat, you may have little choice, since blistering tends to run in
certain builder's lines and you may have to look at quite a few before you find one. All things
being equal, you'd certainly want to choose a boat without blisters. Unfortunately, unless the
seller is kind enough to tell you, you can't find out until the boat is hauled for survey, at
which point you've already invested some money in it. Its a fact that most blistered boats are
sold without regard to the blistering, and this is one of the reasons why. In my experience, the
number of cases where blisters cause the boat to be rejected, or give rise to price
renegotiations is considerably less than 5%.

Its a different story with newer boats, as well it should be, not only from the standpoint of the
higher value, but from what's going to happen in the future. By the time a boat is 8-10 years
old, whatever is going to happen to the hull has probably already happened. With a 2 - 3 year
old boat, its rather likely that the blistering process is just beginning. The great unknown is
just how extensive the blistering will become. Whatever your decision, it should be made in
the awareness that the blistering could get a lot worse, and you should be prepared to accept
that, or reject the boat. Renegotiating price to account for the problem should be a serious
consideration.

Is the Repair of Blistered Bottoms Mandatory?

Based on the foregoing discussion, the obvious conclusion in most cases is negative. If the
blisters cannot be shown to be causing significant damage, then repair is certainly not
mandatory, despite the many horror stories you may hear from people trying to sell you a
costly repair job. If the blisters are large and numerous, it would be wise to seek unbiased,
professional advice before you proceed. Bear in mind that blister repair jobs are now big
business for boat yards, so that taking advice from yard managers may not be a good idea.

Yes, blisters are unsightly and may cause a resale problem. These are all factors you must
weigh, in addition to the very high cost, when deciding to repair or not. Further, you should
also be aware that the number of failed blister repair jobs that surveyor's find is very high. No
one's ever going to know why blister repairs fail because no one is going to spend the money
to find out. That there are so many should also play a role in your decision to repair or not.
And even though the repairer may give a warranty on the repairs, you'd best get it in writing
and read the fine print. Then make sure the repairer is likely to be around years later to honor
that warranty if it becomes necessary.
How To Buy A Used Boat Without Getting Ripped Off!

Used boats, pre-owned boats, hidden treasure, yachts with experience! Whatever you call
them, they are boats that someone else owned before.

We all have the fears and nightmares of buying used and getting someone elses problems.
In reality a useful boat can be a very good dealif you know what to look for and what to
avoid! This report can help you separate out the lemons so that you end up with a plum!

A pre-owned boat can give you and your family many, many years of enjoyment out on the
water. The right boat can ski, tube, cruise, fish and do anything else youd likealmost as
good as a new boat. Plus, it will cost you less money, making it a wise investment.

Currently, it is a very good time to be searching out a used boat. More new family
powerboats were sold in the late 1990s and 2000s than in any other time in history. Many of
these boats are now being re-sold. The marketplace has many useful boats available at good
prices and they still have high value. If you are prepared, it is a great time to be shopping for
a boat!

Aside from getting a good price you can find used boats that were very well made and can
still perform extremely well. Fiberglass seemingly lasts forever, the engines are used less than
half the year and proper care can keep the interior almost like new. The right used boat can be
a great way to get out outdoors and enjoy the water.

Where should you go to look for a used boat? There are used boats in the newspapers,
magazines, Internet, bulletin boards even listings at the grocery store, You could even just
drive around and come across a few of them. But most of us dont have the patience or the
time for such nonsense. Your initial choice will be to look to buy from a private individual or
from a boat dealership.

If you know someone who has just the right boat you are looking for, they took real good
care of it, you trust them and they want to sell it at a good pricethen by all means, buy their
boat. You almost cant go wrong in a situation like that.

But buying a boat from a stranger can often lead to problems. You think you are getting a
great price and you hope you are getting what you paid for. But what happens if you have a
problem or need help with something. Are there any guarantees? Will the stranger be
available later on.? Do you have any recourse if you are unhappy? For every five good deals
made with a stranger Id bet there are three or four that turned out to be bad deals. A used
boat from a stranger is always a gamble with odds that arent very good.

Obviously being a boat dealer we are prejudiced, but weve been here over 50 years and
weve seen what can happen. It will always be difficult to make a good deal with a stranger
unless you are very knowledgeable and experienced with boats and can avoid the mistakes.
(We have years of experience and factory trained mechanicswe still make mistakes on
occasion regarding used boats.)

A reputable boat dealer will first of all give you a wide selection to choose from. You can see
20 boats at one dealer in the same amount of time it would take you to drive around and see 2
or 3 at different peoples houses. At a dealership you can compare the boats and easily decide
what you like and dont like.

A good dealer will also be available with advice if you want it. If you seek out a salesperson
with experience you will be able to have all of your questions answered. How big should you
go in length? How much engine do you need? Will this model work for your family? Is this
hull able to work on your lake or river? A good salesperson will be the knowledgeable
advisor you need when looking over all the possible pre-owned boats.

The salesperson and the dealership have the responsibility to live with the choice you make.
If the boat you decide on isnt right, the dealer knows you will be very unhappy. If you are
unhappy, the dealer knows that he not only has a problem to fix with you, but that you will be
telling all your friends about it. A good dealer realizes that helping you make a good choice is
the best way to build his business for the future. He actually should have your best interest at
heart which you cant get from a stranger.

At some point, you will find a boat that seems like the best choice. It looks like it will do
everything that you want, at a price you can afford. But how can you know if it really is a
good valuewhat should you look for?

You can check the price by looking in the Blue Book. Just like cars there are a few different
agencies that produce books that list the value of all used boats. They arent exact but they
will give you an indication that the price is competitive.

Regarding the boat itself you can tell a lot from your first impression. Is it scratched up,
ripped, dirty and beat up? Or is it shiny, clean and looks well maintained? But remember,
even a flawless looking boat might contain some hidden problems.

Walk around the outside of the boat. Examine the fiberglass for cracking and any signs of
repairs. Use the suns light to look down the sides of the hull to see that they are straight and
not discolored where a fix-up was performed. Is the gel-coat finish faded beyond
restoration?

The rub rail runs around the entire outside of the boat between the hull and the deck. Check
the rub rail closely for dents and gouges. Be sure there is no hull/deck separation or leakage
taking place under the rub rail. It is almost impossible to fix a separation problem properly.
Bend over and look at the bottom of the boat, especially down the center or keel of the hull.
Is there scraping or gouges that need repair? Are there small bubbles in the fiberglass called
blistersvery hard to fix! While you are down on your knees look over the trailer. Is it still
solid? When was the last time the lights and wheel bearings were checked? Be sure the tires
are not all cracked or low on tread.

Now go to the back of the boat where the engine is. Check the drive and prop area for
damage. A prop repair is easy but damage, cracks or leaking to any other parts of the lower
unit area can be very costly to fix. Look closely where the engine contacts the boat. There
should be no leaks, stress cracks or signs of wearing. Pay special attention to the transom.
The transom is made of a combination of wood and fiberglass and older boats can show signs
of rotting. Soft, waterlogged wood in the transom usually means a serious problem and the
boat will be worthless shortly.

After spending enough time on the exterior it would now be the time to get inside the boat.
The interior should be clean and free of musty odors, which might indicate dry rot in the
wood of the seats or floor.

Shake the windshield to be sure it is solid and wont rattle. Operate all the doors, hatches,
windows etc. to be sure they are OK. Check the seats for any rips. Sit in them to check for
comfort and that they operate properly. Be sure the seat bases are sturdy and not coming
loose.

The floor is perhaps the most important single item to inspect on any boat. If the floor is bad
it can be more expensive to fix than the whole boat is worth. Be sure the floor is flat and not
wavy from poor construction technique. Walk over all parts, especially the corners, to
determine whether there is any softness. Again, the floor is usually wood and softness would
indicate rotting which usually means expensive, total replacement.

Eventually work your way back towards the rear of the boat. The lowest area at the back is
called the bilge. The bilge area should be fairly clean with no indication of oil leaking from
the engine. Look for hull cracks, loose or corroded wires and inspect the gas tank. The tank
should, obviously, not leak but should also be firmly mounted and not show any signs of
corrosion or loose hoses.

Visually look over the motor. Is it clean? Are there any missing pieces? Check the beltsare
they cracked or weathered? Pull the dip stick out and look at the oil. If the oil isnt clean and
dark but resembles a chocolate milk shake then you probably have water in the oil. Major
problem! Look at the manifolds for any cracks or indications of leakage. Be sure any hoses
are in good condition and not worn and cracked. Is there any rust, especially around the
starter? Rust could indicate the boat has had extensive water in it or possibly it was
submerged at some time. Look over all electrical connectionsare they corroded at all? Are
the spark plug wires cracked and hardened from age? Ask to see any service records that
might be available.

If the boat has now passed your visual inspection, you should arrange to have a test ride. You
dont want to be told it runs good. You dont want to settle for dry land start-up to hear it
run. You want an actual test rideon the water, off the trailer, fast, slow, turns, honk the horn
and you feel how the boat rides. A test ride is the only way to know what the boat will do and
it should be a necessary step before you buy. Except for your kidsdidnt you test everything
before you bought it!

For the test ride, gather the whole family and any friends that will normally be boating with
you. This may seem inconvenient but you want them all to enjoy the boat, so you better get
their approval before you buy. Secondly, the boat will perform very differently as you add
more people. Be sure your test ride is taken with normal boat load aboard. If you are going
to trailer the boat insist on being taught how to back up the trailer, launch the boat and put it
back on the trailer. Once in the water adjust the seat and tilt the wheel so that you can get
comfortable. Notice the position of the throttle and the gauges. Does the engine start easily?
At idle speed is it quiet enough to hold a pleasant conversation? Does it turn easily at all
speeds? Even high speed hard turns should feel solid and always have you in control, never
hopping or sliding. When you accelerate from slow to fast does the boat respond quickly and
get to level plane in four seconds or less? (If not it wont ski well.) How does the boat feel,
sound and respond to top speed? Drive over the waves (even if they are your own) and feel if
the boat pounds through them or smoothly cuts through the waves. Any annoying
vibrations or rattles in the boat? If you lift your hands slightly off the wheel does the boat
continue straight ahead or does it pull to one direction indicating a problem? When you
throttle down from fast to idle does the boat gracefully glide forward or does it sink in its
own wake indicating a hull that is sluggish and insufficient? Practice parking at a pier and
learn to use reverse. Does it shift smoothly and handle easily? If the boat has a trim and tilt,
are they operating properly? Is the engine making any strange sounds like knocking, pinging
or tapping? Did everybody have a good time and stay drythen it passes the test!

After loading the boat on the trailer ask to check the lower unit lubricant which is in the gear
case by the propeller. Be sure it is clean and golden or dark brown. A chocolate milkshake
color indicates water in the oil and it will need to be fixed.

Hopefully by now, you are very familiar with the boat. A complete visual inspection, a
thorough test ride, a fair price and the familys approvalwhat more could you want? Pay for
the boat, call your insurance man and go out and have fun!

Inspecting and Surveying

a Used Sailboat
Once you have found the boat of your dreams, or a close approximation, you'll have to determine
whether it's in relatively good shape, or if it suffers from any major problems or defects.

This is important because boats on the used market are starting to get a little old, and the potential for
buying a disaster is very real. Unfortunately, repairs or other measures to correct a major problem can
be very expensive. For example, the cost of eliminating serious osmotic blistering on the bottom of a
hull, replacing a rotten wood core in large areas of the deck, or repairing cracked keel supports can
equal the price paid for some of the older boats in the 25 to 30 foot range.

On the other hand, it is normal for most sailboats on the used market to have a number of not-too-
serious problems, and to be in need of some repairs and upgrades. Examples include replacing the
hoses and hose clamps on all thru-hulls, upgrading parts of the plumbing or electrical systems,
rebedding the windows and deck fittings. More substantive, but still feasible repair jobs would include
epoxying the bottom of the hull to deal with mild to moderate osmotic blistering, and rebuilding a
rudder that has become water logged.

It is also worth noting that attitudes have also changed as the used sailboat market grows older.
Fifteen to twenty years ago the recreational fleet was still relatively new, and people tended to view
the onset of even mild cases of osmotic blistering as a sign that a boat was almost a total write-off,
and that it could only be sold at near give-away prices. The same was true if the wood core in parts of
the deck showed slightly elevated moisture readings. Today, elements of these problems are often
regarded as routine occurrences on many boats on the used market, as long as they aren't too
serious. Nevertheless, buyers should make sure that they know the extent and nature of any problem,
and the cost of, and the type of repairs that may be required.

Determining the condition of a boat while shopping on the used market is really a two step process.
The first involves a thorough inspection of the boat by the prospective buyer, and the next step is to
have a professional survey conducted after you have made an offer for the boat, but before you close
the deal and take possession of the vessel.

Your Inspection of the Boat.

Your first task when viewing a boat will be to determine if it meets your needs, if it's well equipped, if it
is sufficiently roomy and comfortable, and above all else, whether you like it. (Buying a sailboat should
never be an entirely rational decision.) You should then be prepared to do a quick inspection which
may take up to half an hour. The main objective of this exercise will be to decide whether it's worth
making an offer for the boat and spend money to have it professionally surveyed.

Your eyes are the main tools for such an inspection, but a small knife or screw driver can be very
handy for poking and scraping (be careful not to do any damage or leave any permanent marks on
the boat). Although not absolutely necessary for a quick inspection, a flashlight and small mirror can
be useful. You should also have a piece of paper and pencil to keep track of anything that you find
questionable and will want to bring to the attention of the surveyor.

The hull, keel, and rudder.

Chances are that you will be viewing and inspecting the boat while it is stored on land. While this
precludes the possibility of a quick test sail, it does allow for the inspection of the boats below the
waterline. In fact, a complete survey by a professional will require that the boat be out of the water.

It's usually a good idea to begin your inspection with the outside of the boat. Step back and view the
boat from a distance. Does it appear to be well supported by its trailer, cradle, or jackstands? Stand in
front of the boat and visualize a line from of the bottom the keel through the boat and up the mast.
Does the keel appear to be in line with the rest of the boat? Walk around the boat with the side of your
face right next to the hull. This will allow you to see the sheen on the hull and detect any distortions
which could be a sign of repairs or stress areas. Make a note to check any area which looks unusual
from the inside.

The keel and rudder should also be inspected. A repair job or damage on the bottom part of the
leading edge of the keel is an indication that the boat has been involved in a grounding, a common
enough occurrence for boats which sail in shallow bodies of water. Depending on how the boat is
constructed and the severity of the grounding, this may be nothing to worry about, or it could be an
indication of more serious damage in other parts of the vessel (a surveyor should be able to figure this
out). Also check the hull-keel joint. If the joint appears to be wider at the forward end, it could be
further evidence that the boat was involved in a hard grounding. If you are looking at a trailerable boat
with a swing keel, try to get under it to take a look into the keel housing (a flashlight will come in handy
for this).

Give the rudder a good shaking to see if the pintles and gudgeons (hinges) are worn have become
loose, or if there's too much play in the rudder stock. Swing the rudder back and forth to make sure
that it moves freely and has not been damaged in any grounding or collision with floating debris. Note
that it is common for rudders on older boats to have absorbed moisture over the years. This can
cause damage with freezing and thawing cycles over a number of winters. Some people successfully
deal with this problem by using a fairly long drill bit to make one or two small drain holes in the bottom
edge of the rudder in the fall. They plug up the holes with an epoxy mixture in spring. But sooner or
later most water-logged rudders will have to be rebuilt in order to ensure the boat is fully seaworthy.

A priority will be to look over the hull for any osmotic blistering (pox), a condition where very small
pockets of water form in the fiberglass, usually just under the gelcoat. These can develop anywhere
on the fiberglass hull below the waterline, and it should be pretty easy to spot a serious case of
blistering. However, mild cases may only show up as a limited number of barely noticeable pea size
blisters, and they can sometimes be difficult to spot through several layers of thick antifouling paint.

A good place to check for signs of osmotic blistering the area of the hull immediately around the
cradle pads and the supporting bunks on a trailer. Since these pads and bunks are usually covered
with carpeting which absorbs water every time it rains, the hull next to them trends to be in contact
with moisture even when the boat is stored on land. In theory, osmotic blistering will first show up in
areas of the hull which have more contact with moisture (but this is not always the case ).

Mild cases of blistering will not affect the seaworthiness of the boat, but it should repaired because it
tends to get worse over the years. Serious cases of osmotic blistering can reach a point where it will
affect the integrity of the hull. It is possible for boat owners to repair osmotic blistering by sanding the
bottom of their boat into the gelcoat and applying an epoxy barrier such as Interprotect 2000. This can
be a very dirty and tiring job, and sanding is messy work which is not permitted in all boat yards.
Professional help is a possibility for all or part of the repair job (such as sand blasting and mechanical
stripping of the bottom), but the costs can add up quickly. A repair job for advanced osmotic blistering
can be very expensive.

Before climbing up on deck, check the thru-hulls, paddle wheel for electronic instruments, and the
propeller, propeller shaft and strut for any problems. The propeller shaft and supporting strut can be
damaged during haulout if a lifting strap is accidentally placed under the shaft and it bears the weight
of the boat as it comes out of the water.

The Deck, Mast, and Rigging.

When you climb up onto the boat, resist the temptation to go below deck right away. Instead, take
some time to slowly walk around the deck. Keep an eye out for anything that looks wrong or out of
place. Check for additional caulking or sealant that may have been applied around windows,
stanchion bases, chainplates, and other deck fittings. Make a note to check these areas when you go
below to see if, and how, water was getting into the boat.

One of your priorities when topside will be to determine if any water has found its way into the wood
core of the fiberglass deck. (Most decks are stiffened with a wood core of end-grain balsa or plywood
which is sandwiched between inner and outer layers of fiberglass.) More often than not, water will get
in through holes used to hold deck fittings in place, and this is especially true of equipment that may
have been poorly installed by one of the previous owners. Older boats may have slightly elevated
moisture readings in a few areas of the deck, but if enough water does get in, it will eventually cause
the wood to rot, and there will be additional damage when everything freezes during the winter. This
will lead to delamination between the wood core and fiberglass skin, and will result in an area of the
deck that may have lost much of it stiffness. Depending on how large an area is affected, and its
location in relation to the cabin and other structures, repairing delamination and rotten core can be
difficult and expensive.

When walking around on deck (and cabin top), use your weight to see if you can feel soft or mushy
areas in the deck under your feet. A little spring in the deck is often normal on many boats, but you'll
have a good idea that something is wrong if the deck on one side of the boat feels a soft, while the
corresponding area on the other side is nice and stiff. You can use the back end of a screw driver
handle to tap any suspect areas of the deck. If the tapping produces a crisp sharp sound, it suggests
that the deck is probably okay, while a dull thump sound indicates that some delamination may have
taken place. It can sometimes be difficult to figure things out, and ultimately, the report on the
condition of the deck may have to wait for an assessment by a competent surveyor.

Your walk around the deck will also give you the chance to verify the condition of the winches,
stanchion bases, bow pulpit, stern rail, hatches, windows, running lights, and other fittings. The
gelcoat and anti-skid areas of the deck should be given a close look. You may find some stress cracks
which could be an indication of some sort of structural problem. However, on many boats the cracking
and crazing in the deck gelcoat may only be superficial and cosmetic in nature, although the larger of
these cracks will eventually have to be repaired before they develop into anything more serious. Such
superficial cracking and crazing is often the result of a fiberglass deck that was built with a gelcoat
that was a little too thick.

Don't forget to check out the cockpit, the area where you and your crew will probably spend more time
than any other part of the boat. Look for cracks and verify the stiffness of the seats, cockpit locker
covers, and cockpit sole (floor). Be sure to open those cockpit lockers to look around. They can
sometimes be full of sail bags and other equipment, and you may have to empty them so that you can
get your head into the lockers for a good view of nooks and crannies of a part of the boat that is often
ignored. Also inspect any arrangements for storing the propane tanks. Such tanks should be in their
own self-contained locker which vents overboard (above the waterline).

The mast and rigging should also be given a once over before going below. Depending on the off
season practices of a particular club or marina, the mast may be left standing on the boat, it may be
taken down and stored across the top of the boat from bow to stern, or it may be stored off the boat
on a mast rack. Whatever the case, you'll want to check the stainless steel rigging wire for any broken
strands (also known as meat-hooks because of what happens if you grab one with your bare hand).
Equally important is the close inspection of swaged eye terminals at the ends of the rigging wire for
signs of corrosion, minute cracks, or any evidence that the terminal fittings have been bent slightly out
of shape. Any defects with wire or swaged terminals is an indication that some or all of the boat's
stays and shrouds may have to be replaced.

If possible, check the top of the mast. Problems are less common with the swaged eye terminals at
the upper end of the rigging wire, but the tangs to which they are connected should be verified. These
tangs will either be bolted to the top of the mast or incorporated in the mast cap. Look for cracks in
welds in the mast cap and any corrosion where a stainless steel bolt comes into contact with the
aluminum mast. And while you are inspecting the top end of the mast, make sure that the halyard
sheaves (pulleys) are rotating freely and that they do not have too much side to side play. It's also a
good idea to take note of what accommodations have been made for a masthead wind indicator and
VHF antenna.

The spreaders are another area worthy of some attention. The fittings which hold the spreaders in
place are often attached to the aluminum mast with stainless steel bolts and screws. Again, it's a
question of corrosion where two dissimilar metals come into contact. And finally, if a keel stepped
aluminum mast is allowed to sit in bilge water, the bottom end will eventually show signs of corrosion.
The same holds true if the lack of a drain hole allows water to collect inside the base of a deck
stepped mast.

Inside the Cabin and Below Decks.

When you go below on a boat that has been laid up for the winter, you may discover that its main
cabin and V-berth area are cluttered with all sorts of equipment that has been stored for the off
season. It may be necessary to move all of this out into the cockpit in order to get a good look around.

Start your inspection of the interior by opening up the bilge and the lockers and compartments under
the settees and V-berth. Now is time to revisit, from the inside, any suspicious areas that were
identified during your examination of the exterior hull. Verify the condition of seacocks and thru-hull
fittings along with the hoses and hose clamps. When examining the bilge, keep and eye out for any
repairs or cracks in the floor boards (keel supports) which suggest the boat might have been involved
in a severe grounding. Also, if there's evidence that standing water was allowed to sit in the bilge for
long periods of time, look for signs of osmotic blistering in the fiberglass of this part of the interior of
the boat.

By peering into the various lockers and compartments, you should be able to check the tabbing (strips
of fiberglass material) which keeps the main bulkheads and other interior components firmly attached
to the hull. If the tabbing has separated from the bulkhead or the hull, you may be on a poorly built
boat or one which has been subject to some serious strain and twisting. Less critical are problems
with the fiberglass tabbing for interior components such as the settees and V-berth structure. As long
as the problem areas are easily accessible, repairing tabbing that has separated from interior
components is relatively easy, although it can be a messy job.

If the boat has a deck stepped mast, verify that it is well supported by the main bulkhead and internal
post, and that the downward force of the mast is properly distributed to the keel and over the lower
part of the hull. Also try opening and shutting any door in the bulkhead or nearby head (toilet). An out
of alignment door could be a sign that pressure from the mast or something else is causing flexing in
the shape of the hull and bulkhead. Note that a small degree of distortion in the shape of the hull may
occur when a boat is sitting on land, but this often disappears when the boat is floating in its natural
element. Moreover, it is not all that unusual to see doors that may be slightly out of alignment on many
older structures, including boats.

At this point of your inspection of the interior, you may want to closely examine the windows and the
entire length of the hull-deck joint for possible leaks by looking for barely noticeable water stains. It will
also be time to see if any of those suspicious looking fittings you spotted on deck or the cabin
structure are letting water into the boat. Because many boats are built with inner liners (fiberglass
shells), the entry point for water on deck can be far removed from the spot where it actually emerges
in the boat. And of course, when water does leak into a cabin, it always seems to drip from an area
above one of the berths.

Be sure to inspect the chainplates during your search for possible leaks. Chainplates are often bolted
on the main bulkhead, and they protrude through the deck to provide an attachment point for shrouds
which hold the mast up. If the sealant around them fails, water will find its way down along the
chainplates and onto the wooden bulkhead. If the bulkhead starts to rot, it can suddenly let go of the
chainplates and the boat will lose its mast.

Although cabin cushions are not really a factor in determining seaworthiness, they have a major
impact on a boat's livability. Take a good look at the cushions' covering material, and see if the zippers
are still serviceable. The foam inside the cushions may also finished, and this isn't obvious when you
are hurriedly inspecting a boat. So take some time to judge the comfort of the cushions by sitting
down on the settees or lying on the berths. Unfortunately, the various custom fitted cushions on a
sailboat can be quite expensive to replace, but it's an investment that can do wonders to rejuvenate a
run down interior.

Plumbing and the Electrical System.

The plumbing systems on larger boats can start to become quite complicated. Check the fresh water
tank(s), hoses, hose clamps, and any hand, foot, or electric pump(s) in the system. You will probably
find the tank(s) are due for a good cleaning, and that some hoses and hose clamps should be
replaced.

Take a close look at the waste system if the boat is equipped with a separate holding tank and head
(as opposed to the smaller system consisting of self-contained toilet/tank). Make sure the holding tank
is vented outside, and that the line isn't blocked. Unless it is relatively new, you can assume that seals
and joker valve in the head should be replaced (they sell kits for this). The same holds true for the
large hose between the tank and the head. These jobs are not pleasant, but they help to ensure that
boat does not develop any odor problems.

Determining if the 12 volt electrical system is adequate and in good working order can be relatively
easy on an older boat. Unless it has been refurbished, you can assume that most of it should be
replaced. Many boats built in the 1970s and early 1980s came with electrical systems that were barely
adequate two decades ago. Today's boats are often loaded with all sorts of additional electric and
electronic equipment, and they often require new wiring and upgraded fuse or breaker panels.
Another problem is that previous owners may have piggybacked all sorts of extra equipment onto
existing wiring and circuits on the electrical panel, and figuring out what's what may be next to
impossible. Rewiring such a boat is a project which can take place over one or two seasons, and the
survey report should point out any work that has to be done on an urgent bases.
In the meantime, you should check the system for potential short circuits by looking for frayed wiring,
lose wires in lockers or compartments that easily become frayed, and electrical panels whose back is
completely exposed to the interior of a locker. Also note that 18 gauge wire may be inadequate for
runs over 15 feet (5 meters), especially when powering 12 volt equipment which draws a fair amount
of current. Sixteen and even fourteen gauge wire is often the best choice for many applications
onboard.

Mistreated batteries will not have much life left in them, but this may only become evident once you
start using them and discover they no longer hold a charge. The use of a hydrometer can reveal if the
voltage of any one cell is substantially lower than others, a sign that the battery should be replaced.
Whatever the case, look for indications that the batteries have been well maintained. They should be
relatively clean, each cell should have the correct fluid level, and their terminal post and clamps
should be corrosion free. And needless to say, heavy batteries should be securely strapped into place.

The Sails and Engine.

Proper inspection of the sails and engine will require the services of a sailmaker and mechanic. In
most cases, even professional surveyors will only give a cursory examination of these items in the
course of their work.

Nevertheless, you may want to at least start the engine to verify that it works. This is easy to do if the
boat is in the water, but if it is stored on land, it will be necessary to find a way of supplying water to
the engine's cooling system. Outboard motors can be started away from the boat with the help of a
garden hose and flusher attachment (which looks like rubber ear muffs). If the hose is long enough, it
is also possible to start an inboard engine on a boat that is stored on land. This assumes that the
starting battery is onboard and that the engine is no longer winterized.

Generally speaking, and if the belts on an inboard engine appear to be old and worn out, if the engine
compartment is dirty and does not look like it has been opened regularly, it is very likely that the motor
has been poorly maintained and that it will give you trouble. If, by comparison, you find spare engine
parts stored away on the boat (filters, impellers, etc.), an engine compartment that is relatively clean,
and belts that are in good shape, it's likely the motor has been well looked after and is in good
condition. Beyond this, you'll probably have to rely on a mechanic to learn more about the condition of
the engine.

The sail inventory also deserves a quick once over. If you find any Mylar sails, assume they will have
to be replaced sooner than later. A mistreated Mylar sail can be destroyed in one season, and even
one that has been cared for with kid gloves will have a life expectancy that will be considerably shorter
that its Dacron equivalent. But unless you are looking at boats that have been raced a lot, you'll
probably come across Dacron (polyester) sails most of the time. With a six month sailing season in
central Canada, twenty year old Dacron sails that have been well maintained and not subjected to
abnormally heavy use, can still have some life left in them for casual day sailing and short cruises
(although it will be on its last legs). Also note that even if an older sail is holding together reasonably
well, it can no longer be expected to have an optimal aerodynamic shape.

As a general rule, the more a sail feels crisp and stiff, the more life it has left in it. Conversely, the
more a sail feels soft and limp, the sooner it should be replaced. If there's enough open space nearby,
you may want to unfold the mainsail and genoa for a closer inspection. Keep an eye out for any
damage or signs of repair, and be sure to check the stitching. On the mainsail, pay attention to the
area around the batten pockets and the slugs which slide up the mast track. With the genoa, double
check the area about half way up the leech that sometimes rubs against the spreaders. Many older
sails can use some restitching and minor repairs, and this is usually not too expensive.

What next?

Your inspection will help you determine if the condition of the boat justifies the sellers's asking price,
and whether or not you want to move on to the next step in the purchasing process. This should
involve making an "offer to purchase" which is conditional on you being satisfied with the condition of
the boat as described in a surveyor's report. If your offer is accepted, the boat will be conditionally
sold, and you'll be in a position to engage the services of a professional surveyor to produce the
necessary report.

After conducting their own inspection of a boat, some people may be tempted to ask if it is really
necessary to spend the $250 to $400 it typically costs for a professional survey, especially when they
do not yet own. The answer to this question is a definite yes, and this is particularly true for any boat
20 feet in length and over.

There are many reasons for using a surveyor, but first and foremost is that it takes knowledge and
skill to properly assess the condition of used boats and to interpret the extent of any problem that may
be discovered. For example, the prospective buyer may correctly identify an area of the deck that has
a rotting core and delamination problems, and as a result, may decide that the boat is no longer worth
considering. However, a professional surveyor may report that the core problem is limited to a small
area, that it is relatively easy or inexpensive to repair, that rest of the deck is sound, and that boat
otherwise surveys very well. Conversely, the prospective buyer may inspect a boat and be convinced
that it is in near perfect condition only to learn from a surveyor that the boat was involved in a severe
grounding and has suffered extensive hidden damage in the keel support structure.

Another reason for using a professional surveyor is that most insurance companies will require a
recently survey before they issue a marine policy on a boat that is over 10 years old (and will probably
require a new survey every ten years thereafter). If you are going to pay for a survey in order to insure
the boat, you might as well get it done before closing the deal, and that way you'll have the benefit of
knowing exactly what you are buying.

Furthermore, a surveyor is in an excellent position to explain exactly how the boat stacks up to others
on the used market. Such information will be rooted in reality rather than a textbook notion of used
boats, and it will almost certainly be worth more than what you'll get from your know-it-all brother-in-
law, the gang at the club, or even websites such as this one. It is also likely that a surveyor will be
able to give you a ball-park estimate of the cost of correcting any problems with the boat, and, if
you're thinking of doing the work yourself, an idea of the skills and number of hours that may be
required to complete the job.

Finding a Competent Surveyor.

Many of the advantages of having a boat surveyed will only materialize if you are able to find a
competent surveyor. Unfortunately, this may not be as easy as it seems because anyone can call
themselves a marine surveyor in Canada and the US. Although it appears that the federal government
may be starting to look into the need for an organization and standards for surveyors, there is still no
official certifying body which sets minimum qualifications for people involved in this business in
Canada. A couple of organizations which operate mainly out of the United States preform some of
these functions, but membership in these bodies is entirely voluntarily.
The author of this website has had a commissioned a number of surveys over the years, and can
attest to the fact that some so-called surveyors simply produce a nicely detailed description of the
boat and equipment while overlooking some fairly obvious defects. Nowadays, many of these
surveyors are also quick to pull out their moisture meters, but, here again, it takes skill and experience
to obtain meaningful readings and to properly interpret them.

So how does one find a good surveyor? Ask around. Look for an independent surveyor who has been
around for a number of years, and is in the business more or less on a full time basis. Avoid people
involved in brokerage or the repair businesses, and who may only be doing surveys as a sideline. You
may enquire around marinas and clubs about surveyors who have a reputation for being thorough,
and even harsh, on the boats they examine. Since they have a vested interest in making sure that
boats are well surveyed, insurance companies may be able to come up with names of some good
people (but you can't always count on it). Membership in one of the American-based surveyors'
organizations is probably a good indicator of competency. [ links to more info ]

Don't be afraid to phone several surveyors and ask about their qualifications and experience.
Although they can be very busy from the beginning of April to the end of June, if you phone during the
off season, most reputable surveyors will be happy to talk to you about how they go about their work,
and some may even share their views on certain boats on the used market. When shopping around
for a surveyor, try to find someone who has experience with the model of boat you are considering.
Even a good surveyor will do a better job if they are already familiar with how a particular model was
manufactured and its history for potential problems. And finally, if the boat you are looking at is outside
the travel range of someone you know is a good surveyor, ask for a referral.

Since there are no official standards or governing organizations for surveyors, their prices can vary
considerably. Someone without much experience may only charge $100 for a so-called "insurance
survey", which, by definition, is not very thorough. However, the cost of a real "pre-purchase survey"
for a production fiberglass sailboat usually runs around $10 to $12 a foot, possibly a bit more for
larger boats with a number of complex systems (as of 2001). There can also be extra charges for the
surveyor's time and expenses for travelling to the boat, although many will wave this fee if the job is
located in an area close to their home base.

Most surveyors will give you a verbal summary of the condition of the boat shortly after completing the
survey, and will provide a detailed written report within a few days. Don't be surprised if you are
handed a report which lists several dozen items requiring attention. (Good surveyors are even
capable of finding a surprising number of shortcomings on a brand new boat.) Many surveyors will
issue their report in terms of items requiring immediate attention, matters that should be taken care of
in the next year or two, and projects that can be carried out at some point in the future at the owner's
discretion.

Although the items requiring immediate attention are obviously the important ones to look after, they
often involve problems that are relatively easy to correct. For example, it is not unusual for a surveyor
to recommend that the hoses and hose clamps on seacocks and thru hulls be replaced as soon as
possible. If, on the other hand, the report does identify a major defect or problem which had not
already factored into price of the boat, you may want to renegotiate your offer or see if the seller is
willing to make the necessary repairs. Whatever the case, you should seek the guidance of the
surveyor in determining the extend to which such a defect or problem should influence your decision
on whether or not to purchase the boat.

Good luck, and happy sailboat inspecting.

 The Real Story of Osmosis Blistering
Treatment, Cure and Prevention
March 2003
by
Steve Smith

5100 Channel Ave Richmond CA 94804-4646 U. S. A.

www.smithandcompany.org Vox 1-510-237-6842 fax 1-510-232-9921

There are two fundamental causes of GRP [Glass-Reinforced Polyester] blisters [osmosis
blisters, The Pox, etc.].

One is poor workmanship in the original manufacture. The other is water getting into the
laminate.

There is one way to stop, repair and prevent this from happening, and that is to keep the GRP
and water away from each other.

With every boat yard in the world having its own GRP repair/salesman/expert, why should
you believe me?

I am a chemist an a physicist and accidentally got into the paint-and-glue business in the early
1970s. I am actually the guy who discovered what was causing gel-coat blisters, when the
boat manufacturers were denying that there was any such thing. I invented the barrier-coat
technology that is now in common use to prevent and repair blister damage.

The outline of this article is as follows: First we shall discuss the issue of poor workmanship;
then we shall discuss how to keep water away from the hull.

Keeping water away from the hull will consist of two types of actions; first, reducing the rate
at which water enters the hull, by diffusion or direct immersion, and second, facilitating the
departure of water which does get in or has already gotten in.

WORKMANSHIP
We may as well begin the discussion of poor workmanship with the statement that the boat
never should have been made of GRP in the first place because all polyesters eventually
decompose in the presence of water. The short reason for that is that an ester is made by
reacting two things together and eliminating water as a reaction byproduct, or waste. When
put back in the presence of water, the reaction goes the other way, although it may do that
very slowly. This will be discussed in MUCH MORE detail later.

The hull should have been made of some epoxy resin system, as they are inherently stable
against reversion from excess water exposure. Why, then, are polyesters used? The simple
answer is cost. Epoxy resins cost $1.50-$2.00 (U. S.)/pound, whereas polyesters cost fifty to
seventy-five cents per pound, roughly a third the cost.

So, there we are. The boats will be, are and have been made of polyester resin for all except
the most wealthy, and that is the beginning of poor workmanship.

Why, exactly is it that polyesters are not stable in the presence of water, and why do GRP
hulls have all those problems?

The word "polyester" means "many esters" and an ester is a chemist's name for something
made by reacting an organic acid with an organic base and eliminating the resulting water.
When you put esters in water the reaction goes backwards, with ester-plus-water
disassociating back into acid-plus-base.

It's just chemistry. It's the way things work.

The bases used in polyester resins may be small molecules such as are ethylene glycol or
neopentyl glycol or similar water-soluble-molecules, and these diffuse out and away, leaving
the large acid molecules as an acid-rich residue in the laminate. The polyester resin laminate
slowly develops porosity, and the diffusion of water through the gel-coat (colloidal-silica-
reinforced and more resistant to this degradation) and into the laminate behind it creates
excess pressure (osmotic pressure) and blisters result.

The "catalyst" used to cure polyester resins is a 40% solution of Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Peroxide in Dibutyl Phthalate. This material, imperfectly mixed in the spray from a chopper
gun, will rapidly wick into glass fiber bundles where it is not mixed with the resin.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone [the remaining material after catalyst decomposition to donate oxygen
to cure the polyester resin] is soluble in water and its presence in the cured laminate will
create osmotic pressure, drawing in water and contributing to blister creation.

The Dibutyl Phthalate is itself another ester, and will decompose into Phthalic acid and Butyl
alcohol.

The cold-set promoter, cobalt napthenate, is a soap (esters with metal hydroxides are called
soaps) of cobalt hydroxide and napthenic acid. It will similarly decompose under conditions
of extreme chemical stress caused by the decomposition of other components of the GRP
laminate.

Water is drawn into such areas, creating more osmotic pressure and resulting in blisters
wherever there was a contaminant or microscopic void. Even a failed chemical bond between
the polyester resin and a glass fiber is a void in which a blister can start.

The use of a chopper gun in and of itself can be considered poor workmanship.

There is a small percentage of water that will dissolve in the laminate, with a higher amount
going into chopper-gun-sprayed laminates due to the inherent lack of full wetout of glass
fiber bundles by the chopper-gun manufacturing process, creating microscopic voids in glass
fiber bundles throughout the laminate. This diffusion of water into these void structures can
be mistaken for water "dissolving" in the resin.

There is a web site with an unbelievably long and detailed "explanation", in the most
excruciatingly technical terms, of this whole phenomenon, based on the premise that
polyester curing reactions are incomplete at room temperature and require a postcure bake at
eighty to ninety degrees centigrade, in order to be fully cured. This statement is not correct,
and thus everything that follows from it goes up the wrong alley. Polyester resins decompose
in the presence of water, regardless of how fully cured they are. The fully-cured-and-baked
ones just take longer. The explanation is as follows:

There are two fundamental types of chemical reactions. One is the addition-type and the other
is the free-radical type (there are other types and special cases, but they are not relevant to
this simplified discussion).

Addition reactions, such as epoxy curing reactions, go at a certain rate as part A adds to part
B. Different kinds of materials have different reaction rates, and accelerators can be added,
but there will be some characteristic rate at which a small mass cures. The further the extent
of cure, the fewer of part A molecules there are, and the more difficult it is for those A and B
molecules to find each other. Thus, the further along the curing reaction goes, the more
slowly it goes. This rate is characteristic of addition-type reactions.

The free-radical curing mechanism proceeds by something reacting with itself or another,
mediated by a broken molecular fragment called a free radical. The reaction that consumes a
free radical generates another upon its completion, and so the reaction propagates rapidly,
turning a liquid into a solid quickly,( after some initial dormancy or latency time) and
liberating all of its reaction energy as heat in a short period of time. This is characteristic of
polyester resins, which may be liquid for twenty minutes after mixing and then fully cure in
the next ten minutes.

The "post-cure" baking process which results in a more water-resistant laminate, is actually
evaporating a water-soluble solvent, methyl ethyl ketone, [MEK] out of the laminate. That is
the same methyl ethyl ketone mentioned earlier, left over from the catalyst. That water-
soluble material, in conjunction with any microscopic void, will start the osmotic blistering
process.

All one needs is an inhomogenous laminate and a region [a void, improperly mixed resin, or a
spot of dirt] containing something soluble or its vapor [such as MEK] or a void space from
improperly wetted-out glass fiber bundles, into which water-soluble material can diffuse.
Water is then attracted to such a region. Perhaps the laminate and resin in that vicinity will be
strong enough to withstand the osmotic pressure, perhaps not. Eventually the polyester will
begin to decompose, weakening that little region. Eventually a blister will form. Even in the
absence of residual MEK, or the use of a different catalyst which does not contain it, the
polyester will eventually decompose, and some of the water-soluble glycol molecules
generated by that decomposition reaction will migrate into void spaces, and that will attract
more water and the osmotic blistering process begins. It may take fifty or three hundred years
but it will happen because the polyester/water hydrolysis reaction exists.

The use of glass fiber mat held together with something that does not readily dissolve in the
resin or alters its properties when dissolved will also cause the apparency of osmotic
blistering. This is a combination of resin decomposing, resin swelling from water absorption,
and the release of the resin from the fibers or fiber bundles. Water can then migrate along the
opened capillary space, spreading the resin/fiber decomposition over a great area.

The use of a chopper gun to spray a resin/catalyst droplet mixture onto a surface along with
chopped lengths of glass fiber bundles without a doubt contributed more to the production of
low-quality laminates that decomposed early, than any other workmanship issue in the
manufacture of GRP hulls. Those hulls made with batches of resin premixed and applied by
hand to layers of cloth or mat in a mold (the early way of doing it) should hold up far better,
and did.

Failed repairs consist of some or all of the above issues. Even epoxy fillers, insufficiently
mixed, will soften on immersion in water. The fault is not with the epoxy but rather with the
mixer.

That pretty well covers the workmanship issue. We could go into the chemistry in more
detail, but the words get technical and the chemical reactions are only understandable by
chemists and do not change the basic facts: Polyester resins decompose in water and fast-and-
sloppy construction methods just make it worse.

THE BARRIER THAT KEEPS WATER AWAY

If blisters develop and are ignored, your hull will develop major structural damage. I believe
blistering of fiberglass hulls can be prevented for decades, depending on hull condition and
repair workmanship.

I developed the Barrier Coat Technology in 1975 and hulls correctly done since that time
have shown no further damage.
The essence of the problem is that water permeates the resin system and then causes what
damage it can because polyester resin and its additives inherently decompose in water.

The essence of the solution is this: If one can put a totally impermeable barrier between the
water and the hull, then the damage could not occur, regardless of how susceptible the resin
of the laminate might be.

There is no such thing as a totally impermeable moisture barrier, but the U.S. Navy has, over
the last fifty years developed a great deal of coating systems technology. Further
improvements by Smith & Co. have led to our HIGH-BUILD BARRIER COATINGS.. Their
remarkable moisture resistance comes partly from the blend of mineral fillers used in the
system, which increase the diffusion path length to several times the coating thickness, and
partly from the unusually dense and water-repellent molecular structure of the resin system.
This reduces the concentration of water in the hull.

The rate of the decomposition chemical reactions depends on water concentration in the
laminate. The probability of blistering occurring depends on the rate of the chemical
decomposition reactions.

This is the fundamental principle: If water evaporates off the inner hull surface of a fiberglass
hull boat faster than it can diffuse through the barrier paint coating, this results in a very low
moisture content in the laminate. Theoretically, if it leaves faster than it comes in, the
resulting water concentration in the laminate should approach zero, EVEN WITH THE
BOAT SITTING IN THE WATER! With the water concentration so low, the probability of
blisters developing moves out in time perhaps ten times farther, to many decades or even
hundreds of years, making it no longer a concern. The factors that will prevent blistering in
all but the most egregious cases are, first, the barrier on the outside, and second, some
positive means of ventilation throughout the bilge, and any part of the hull that is below the
waterline.

This implies that the bilge should be kept dry.

Sometimes it is impossible to keep the bilge dry due to inevitable water leakage around the
shaft. In that case use that same moisture-diffusion barrier coating to coat the inside ONLY
WHERE THE WATER RUNS down into a sump where the bilge pump sits. That way the
part of the bilge that is inevitably wet does not feed water into the laminate, and water vapor
is free to diffuse out of the laminate on the inside, where the ventilation can carry it out and
away.

A Brief History of Osmosis Blister-Handling Technology

The barrier coat technology for stopping osmotic blisters on GRP (Glass Reinforced
Polyester) hulls was invented by myself in the middle 1970s. Much of the technology was
developed at that time with little or no practical experience, but simply as a series of logical
deductions from an initial premise "If we reduce the concentration of water then the chemical
reaction whose rate depends on water concentration should proceed more slowly" which
follows from the most fundamental scientific principles.

In order to reduce this abstract idea to something workable it was necessary to take the first
step of "Assume something that ought to work, try it and see if it does the expected." This
first step was in the design of the barrier. Even though liquid organic resins (epoxy, polyester,
etc.) are readily available, can be easily spread over a surface and can cure quickly, they are
not the ideal material from which to construct a barrier to water molecules.

Minerals, particularly those which do not chemically react with or dissolve in water should be
the ideal barrier. There are two reasons for this. First, if the barrier can dissolve in water then
a water solution of those mineral salts can obviously migrate through the barrier. Second,
water molecules are very small. Minerals of certain types have much smaller spaces between
their atoms than those through which water molecules can pass, and have many fewer "polar
groups of atoms" which can attract and hold water molecules compared to organic resins,
including polyester, vinyl ester, acrylic, epoxy or others.

The ease with which water can move through mineral versus resin barriers may be likened to
the ease with which a motorist may travel a five hundred mile highway through mountains
with no rest stops nor gas stations, compared to a highway with not only rest stops and gas
stations but restaurants, five-star hotels and entertainment every mile.

It was recognized at the beginning that it would be impossible to mold a sheet of glass or
ceramic around the outside of a boat, and so a mixture of glass and ceramic minerals was
chosen for their ability to fit together as small particles between the spaces of the larger
particles. An epoxy resin system was chosen which did not contain any small unattached
molecules ("water-soluble molecules" [WSM], to use a buzzword popular in the U. S.) and
which was "water-repellent", much as oiled cloth repels water. The popular epoxy and
polyester resin systems are not made this way because their manufacturers design the
products for different market applications and at different raw material costs. Much research
and experimental work eventually led to the formulation of the barrier coat and the complete
solving of all its performance limitations, and the development of supporting products and a
coordinated technology for their use.

When all this was tested in the field it was found after ten years of use by professional boat
repair contractors and talented amateurs that the technology did indeed seem to work,
arresting deterioration, stopping further blistering and repairing damage done.

Occasionally it would be found that something would not work right, blisters turning up in
the middle layers of a repair being the most common failure of the technology. Knowing the
fundamental principles of the technology were correct, it was then only necessary to find the
exact departure from the ideal scene of "technology correctly applied" in order to remedy the
failure. This was not necessarily the fault of anyone but sometimes a learning process for all.
An example of this was the discovery that if one did not rub down the hull with an abrasive
pad before applying the barrier coat, [and again, after a coat or two of the barrier coat],
microscopic glass fibres which were sticking straight up as a result of the previous grinding
and epoxy impregnation steps would stick through the barrier coat, acting as tunnels or wicks
for water to travel down, creating a small blister at the base of each. Other discoveries, such
as the possibility of incomplete filler mixing, led to the distribution of a black pigment in a
small "salt shaker" to be used to give increased color contrast in the filler and thus ensure
complete mixing.

Eventually it appeared that all the inherent imperfections of the technology had been isolated,
identified and all barriers to its application handled with standard, workable and reproducible
technology.

In 1993 a new discovery was made. Some boats, a very few, did not get better and stay better
even when everything appeared to be done right (or, at least, close enough to right that it
should not have made so dramatic a difference). More research was done, based on the theory
that if the technology was workable (as had been seen in so many cases) then there must be
something, heretofore invisible or only rarely present, which causes such failures or creates a
predisposition to failure in some cases. After reviewing the technology and its application it
was decided to examine the GRP hull of the boat itself on the theory that that had never been
exhaustively analyzed in the past and perhaps, by looking at the molecular structure and
atomic makeup of the GRP material in these cases one might find something illogical and,
through investigation discover the failure mechanism.

An analysis of a sample of GRP laminate was done and it was discovered that there was an
unusual amount of certain mineral elements which could not beexplained by the assumption
that the material consisted only of Glass-Reinforced Polyester resin. The analytical method
used is somewhat similar to spectrographic analysis in that it can identify the presence of
most atomic elements and determine the amount of each present. It is known as X-Ray
Fluoresence Spectroscopy, or XRF for short.

This was done, and it was found that there were abnormal amounts of the element Calcium in
one hull, and of Magnesium and Silicon in another. The calcium, far more than in the
minerals of sea water or in glass, had to have come from limestone, and the Magnesium and
excess Silicon would be from Magnesium Silicate, also known as Talc.

A bit of thought led to the amazing realization that some manufacturers of GRP boat hulls
had actually added fillers or extenders into the polyester resin in an effort to reduce costs,
and/or added fire-retardant minerals in an incompetent effort to make a GRP laminate fire-
retardant without purchasing expensive fire retardant resins.

The net result of adding talc, limestone or other mineral fillers or pigments would be a
dramatically enhanced tendency of the hull to show GRP laminate deterioration of the type
commonly referred to as osmosis. There are three reasons for this. First, special mixing
equipment is required to mix powders with liquids without mixing in fine air bubbles. This is
routine for paint manufacturers but not for boat manufacturers, thus many fine bubbles in the
resin would be expected. These bubbles are additional voids into which water can diffuse,
thus creating osmotic blisters. Second, adding mineral fillers would interfere with the ability
of the resin to wet out bundles of glass fibre, allowing voids in which water accumulates,
hastening chemical decomposition of the GRP laminate. Third, mixing limestone (calcium
carbonate) or other water-soluble minerals will cause osmotic blisters as the limestone
dissolves in the water that is drawn to diffuse through the laminate.

Normally, no manufacturer is likely to admit to anyone they are doing this, much less doing it
only to save money. There is no good reason for it.

This is comparable to taking a recipe for bread that calls for three cups of flour and using
instead two cups of flour and one cup of fine sand or sawdust.

The chemical consequence of mixing powdered limestone, or any water-soluble mineral for
that matter, into GRP in a boat hull is to guarantee that there will be osmosis blistering and
deterioration, as the water diffusing into the GRP will dissolve the limestone just as
underwater seepage dissolves limestone, creating caverns with stalactites and stalagmites.

The physical consequence of mixing powdered pigments, fillers or extenders of any sort into
a resin which is then applied to cloth, mat, roving or glass fiber bundles will be that the
capillary forces around each small bundle of glass fibers will draw in the liquid resin while
filtering out the powder fillers, which will accumulate as a dense filter cake around the
surface of each incompletely wetted bundle of glass fibers. This will create an extensive
microvoid structure throughout the hull, which is to say that there will be lots of empty space
inside glass fiber bundles that should have been thoroughly impregnated with resin as is the
case with ethically manufactured GRP hulls. Water will diffuse into these void regions,
extract and dissolve the polyester resin itself over time, and by this mechanism also cause
dramatic and persistent osmotic blistering.

The manufacture of such a product, embodying an abnormal and concealed intrinsic liability,
may be compared to a person being born with terminal cancer. A sensible diet, vitamins and
the usual rules of good living conducive to health and a normal life expectancy do not apply
in such a case. If the fact of terminal cancer is hidden from view, then the health of the person
would seem to fail for no apparent reason.

In order to detect such "poor risk" jobs before the yard quotes on repairs or before a
prospective owner undertakes a job of blister repair on a hull which has already had many
such repairs, use X-ray Fluoresence Spectroscopy [XRF] to analyze the sample, which should
be a minimum of ten grams of drill shavings. Be sure to grind off any paints or pigmented
gel-coat overlying the GRP laminate. Compare that with an XRF analysis of plain glass fibre
from fiberglass or mat such as the hull was made of. The carbon, hydrogen and oxygen of
polyester resin do not show up on XRF analysis, but the minerals such as are in silica, talc,
limestone or other extender fillers do.

The boat need not be removed from the water to take such samples. The drill shavings may
be obtained from the inner surface, holes drilled halfway through the hull and filled with any
good epoxy filler.

By way of estimating the ten-gram quantity, a one-centimeter drill, drilling a hole one
centimeter deep, will produce about one gram of shavings. In American measure, a 3/8" hole,
3/8" deep, will do. You will need about ten of these. Catch the shavings in a small container
held below the drill, and shield the activity from the wind. Pack them in a zip-lock plastic
bag, put in a heavy paper envelope and send by air-mail. The analysis is usually done within a
few weeks, but it depends on the backlog of the laboratory to which you send the sample.
Analytical laboratories are listed in the classified [business] section of a telephone book, and
some of those have this sort of equipment.

I wish to emphasize that this is not a usual procedure, and there were only a few brands of
boats in the U. S. who, in the 1970s, were notorious for blister and other deterioration
problems. Most of the chronic osmosis problem boats were seen in Europe in the 1980s and
1990s and were made ten to twenty years earlier.

Epoxy paints [not anybody's "epoxy resin"] designed as moisture diffusion barriers are
appropriate, with degreasing and sanding first to ensure a clean surface. I make one such. You
may not conveniently be able to get it, depending on where in the world you are. There are
many, around the world, that will do this job. The really important factors are those others,
mentioned above.

The implementation of the GRP blister prevention technology should proceed along these
lines, since it logically follows from what has been discussed previously.

Residual salt in the hull has, historically, not been an issue in blister recurrence. One might
expect that water-soluble sodium chloride would attract water and cause osmotic blistering.
The fact is that it does not appear to happen. One could speculate on the reasons, and there is
certainly room for further development of understanding.

DRYING THE HULL

One significant feature of my discoveries in the refurbishment of older GRP hulls is that it is
utterly unnecessary to dry the hull for months with a dehumidifier tent, etc., etc. For mild
blistering where removal of the gelcoat is not necessary, one to two weeks drying in warm
weather (once the hull is sanded to bare gelcoat) is sufficient. If the gelcoat were stripped
from a seriously damaged hull, a week in warm weather is adequate for the hull to dry
sufficiently that the first (moisture-dissolving) coating may be applied. If the damaged
laminate is not dry, but rather suppurating strange-smelling liquids, the gel-coat will need to
be stripped and the hull re-launched for a week, hauled out again and then rinsed and allowed
to dry.

Drying should not be necessary if there is no damage. A decent moisture-diffusion barrier

coat is a wise idea, in that case. Once back in the water, less water will diffuse into the
laminate from the water outside the hull, and so the laminate will slowly dry out on its own
(with adequate ventilation through the bilge area).

The drying is part of blister prevention. If one does not take effective action, then the need to
repair more and more blisters will continue. I personally believe in fixing it once. A person's
labor to fix their boat is usually worth more than the cost of even fancy materials. Drying of a
hull needs to be done externally as well as internally. On the outside, a number of those three-
foot-square, six-inch thick fans that blow up a storm are what you want, aimed to move the
prevailing winds to and past the hull, as well as something to move inside air through the
bilges and compartments, and out. Inside ventilation is even more effective than outside,
where the gel-coat is largely intact.

Moving air evaporates water faster than anything else, and the removal of excess water in the
laminate is the key to a more successful blister repair, whether one uses the fanciest epoxies
or the cheapest polyester.

With adequate ventilation most hulls are adequately dry in a few weeks, but there are
exceptional situations.

Stripping the gelcoat with a "peeler" will give a hull that dries the fastest, all other things
equal.

Measure the laminate with a non-contact moisture meter (meaning do NOT use the ones with
sharp pins that stick into the surface being measured) in an area under the waterline, where
blisters are worst, and compare with an area always dry, usually near the topsides. That will
give you a clue as to relatively how dry the whole hull is. The recommended meter is a
Wagner L606.

A typical turn-around time for a franchisee in Europe was three to five weeks, depending on
weather and hull condition.

Smith & Co. products for blister repair

The products used in GRP blister repair are only as reliable as the personnel that apply them.

The "product" for the repair of damaged GRP, whether minor gel-coat blisters or major
laminate deterioration, is actually a technology involving the use of several products in a
specified procedure. Like any technology for the repair of poor work of others, it has its
limitations. Some hulls should not be considered repairable.
Originally, technicians were trained in the U. S. and then went to Europe to train the
franchises and their yard workers in the methods of refurbishment which I developed twenty-
five years ago when I first developed the barrier-coat technology for arresting osmosis
damage to GRP laminate. The warranty program (backed by Lloyds of London) was
implemented about twenty years ago, when our search of the historical records of Smith &
Co. customers showed that GRP hulls repaired by their owners with Smith & Co. materials
according to Smith & Co. instructions showed no further damage. There were a few instances
of further deterioration over the years, but in each case this was traced to some deviation
from the standard technology. Further repairs were done in those cases and there were no
further recurrences. The standard technology for GRP laminate repairs has been developed
from the understanding of the exact chemical mechanism of polyester resin decomposition,
and the discovery of how workmanship can accelerate it. This article documents that
technology. Much of this material was considered proprietary, but the training/franchising
program no longer exists and there is no reason now not to place the data in the public
domain.

It is important to note that while much of this technology has become common knowledge
among boat yards and manufacturers, there is a mixture of false data, irrelevant data, omitted
data and altered importances of data mixed in to what the boating publishing media reports,
what "everybody knows" about this problem and the solutions promoted by various
manufacturers and experts.

General repair instructions

1. Grind out or sandblast all blisters down to sound laminate. Get under all of the loose
material. Some blisters may have a colored liquid in them. Don't get any of this in your eyes
or on your skin - it may be very caustic. Some hulls may have an advanced state of chemical
decomposition. This may be recognized by a strong chemical smell such as vinegar or a
solvent, which may be noticeable after peeling the gelcoat or grinding down the hull. An
advanced state of chemical decomposition may also be recognized by liquid, apparently
water, oozing out of the laminate where a blister has been ground out, and leaving a visible
residue which dries on the surface. Such hulls should have the entire gelcoat ground off or
peeled to expose the underlying laminate containing chemical decomposition products. This
may also require removal of some laminate. Chemical cleaning may then be accomplished in
any of several ways: the hull may be hosed down with water every hour for a few days; a
garden hose with many small holes such as is used to slowly water a garden may be draped
around the hull to slowly and continuously rinse the hull with water; or the hull may be
launched and left in the water for a few days to a week and then hauled out again. Some fresh
water rinsing and a week or three to dry out (depending on weather and temperature) should
then give a hull sufficiently dry to continue.

Simple moving air from fans evaporates water more efficiently than complex dehumidifiers,
etc. The mobility of dissolved water through the GRP laminate is relatively slow, and when
water reaches the laminate surface the fans quickly carry it away.
2. If the gelcoat is not to be entirely peeled, sand it all down to clean gel-coat. Sand any
gelcoat that is left. You must get past the gloss surface of the gelcoat. It is a wax-rich surface,
and it may also be degraded by exposure to the water. With many large blisters, it will be
necessary to strip off the gelcoat and treat as discussed above. Then, inspect closely. Then let
it sit a week outside with good ventilation inside and out, and see if anysmall blisters on the
surface have now become visible as they dried. If there are no visible signs of blisters, then a
good epoxy moisture-diffusion-barrier coat (there are products designed specifically to do
that) will offer long-term protection if the boat stays in the water all or most of the time. If
there are blisters, then follow my advice if you use my products.

Follow the advice of the manufacturer of whomever's products you use, generally. Try to
make sense of conflicting advice if you have it, based on a fundamental understanding of
what is going on, which my literature should give you. Cope as best you can with local
materials if you have no alternative.

3. Allow a week or two in warm dry weather for the excess water to evaporate out of the hull.

4. Apply Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer to saturate the laminate. The Cold Weather
Formula applied late in the day is recommended in all but the warmest climates, where the
Warm Weather Formula may be used. This product contains solvents and the choice of which
version to use is a solvent evaporation issue. Allow a few days to perhaps a week to dry and
cure; then apply a second coat of which little should soak in. In extreme cases a third or even
fourth application may be necessary. Allow sufficient time between each application that the
hull no longer smells strongly of solvents before continuing; this may take a few days to a
week in moderate weather. In cold weather the Cold Weather Fromula. of our Clear
Penetrating Epoxy Sealer should be used.

5. Apply two roller coats of Smith & Co. High-Build Epoxy Paint. Use the red for the first
coat and any other of our standard colors for succeeding coats. Use contrasting colors so that
no areas are missed when applying successive coats, and so that the depth to which one has
sanded is visible and controllable. Allow 4 hours drying time between coats, and apply no
more that two coats in two days. Allow a day or two for the epoxy paint to fully cure so it can
be sanded without dusting. Then rub the entire surface down with an abrasive pad. This is a
necessary step. It breaks off the microscopic stubs of glass fibre sticking up through the paint,
that would otherwise act as water-wicks and create recurring blisters in the finished job.

6. Fill all holes with Smith & Co. Fill-It Epoxy Filler. Mix thoroughly according to the
application note for thoroughly mixing fillers. Allow to cure overnight, then sand. Stop
sanding when you expose the red layer.

7. Apply three more coats of contrasting colors of High-Build Epoxy Paint. 4 mil wet film
thickness per coat is equivalent to 400 sq. ft/gal/coat.
8. Several days further drying time should be allowed to reduce the possibility of solvent
blistering. The Antifouling Paint may then be applied below the waterline, and topcoat and
bootstripe above.