AVON

55574
$6.95

With a few simple

a

little

secrets,

imagination... and very little money,

you'll newer have to say

HAVEN'T
A THING TO

"I

WEAR!"

m-Mty

rtJ
\

HAVEN'T
A THING TO

"I

JUDITH KEITH
ILLUSTRATIONS BY LEE

a%
W

WYDRA

AVON
PUBLISHERS OF BARD, CAMELOT, DISCUS AND FLARE BOOKS

AVON BOOKS
A

division of

The Hearst Corporation

959 Eighth Avenue
New York, New York 10019

Copyright

1980 by Judith Keith

Cover photography Copyright

1981

by Kathie A. McGinty

Sandy Lopes
All jewelry by "Kenneth Jay Lane"
Black high heel sandals and two-tone blue high

Styling by

back

pump by

Tan

sling

Tan

espadrille by

heel

by "Nina"

"Life Stride"

"Wimzees"

Published by arrangement with

Tandem

Press

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 76-57886

ISBN: 0-380-55574-3
All rights reserved,

reproduce

this

which includes the

right to

book or portions thereof

in

whatsoever except as provided by the U.

any form

S.

Copyright Law.

For information address Tandem Press, Tannersville,

Pennsylvania 18372

The Tandem

Press edition contains the following Library of Congress Cataloging

Publication Data:

in

Keith. Judith.
"I

haven't a thing to wear!"

Clothing and dress.

2.

Beautv. Personal.

Title

TT507.K38
First

Avon

1980

391

Printing, September, 1981

AVON TRADEMARK REG U S PAT OFF AND IN

OTHER COUNTRIES. MARCA REGISTRADA. HECHO EN
U.S.A
Printed in the

10

S.

A.

987654

To the women at

my

shows

whose warmth and laughter

have

made

the years a pleasure

Acknowledgments
The author
Fitzgerald.

acknowledges the editorial advice of Elisa B.

an author past the speed limit is lucky to have an

gratefully

When

editor not yet twenty-one, her

work becomes more

effective.

How

wonderfully tough and perspicacious young people are! Miss Fitzgerald's

contemporary touch, twentyish eye and

ear, plus

her enthu-

siasm and perception have indeed added a youthful dimension.

Contents

The Concepts

Part One

1THE CONCEPTSTHE ANSWER TO TIMELESS

FASHION

2CONTOURor DOES THE END JUSTIFY THE

JEANS?

3COLORAT NO

COST!

30

ACLASSICSAS TIME RESISTANT AS CHOPIN

36

5COORDINATIONTHE TALENTED TOUCH

59

Part

TwoDoing It!

6SCARVESHOW TO

TIE

ONE

ON!

93

7HATS TO TAKE YOU EVERYWHERE

8CLOTHES FOR SPECIAL TIMES

IN

YOUR

132

LIFE

149

9THE QUALITY TOUCH

163

10THE FINISHING TOUCH

174

Contents
1

1 THE CROWNING TOUCH

192

12 CLOSETS PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

13 GETTING THE MOST FOR

YOUR MONEY

14_ON THE MOVE LIGHT HEARTED

LIGHTWEIGHT

200
209

and

15 THE POWER OF A POSITIVE FASHION IMAGE

222
242

Winning!

Part Three
16 LIFE

IS

AN OLYMPICS!

17 FOODS TO KEEP

YOU YOUNG

AND REGENERATE
19 UNLEASHING THE POWER OF CREATIVE
18 RELAX

POTENTIAL

253

283
308

312

Part 1

The Concepts

1
The Concepts
The Answer
To Timeless Fashion

was the

Mama
cleaned,

original

"IT"

girl.

gave birth at home, and when

Mama

Grandma

took

me

to be

heard shrieks. Not from her newborn, but from her

mother.
"Gott in himmel, what

is

77?"

Silence.

And

ITs healthy!"
mother was beautiful. Grandma said

then a resigned sigh,

"Well, thank God, at least

My
father.

She hated him. At

neckline as

my

looked just

like

my

dropped a toad into Grandma's

pretty cousins June and Ray climbed into her lap. She
five I

will become of 77?"

jumped from our third floor apartment window with
an umbrella because I wanted to "parachute." Grandma stomped
down the stairs. Her ponderous breasts parted the hedges as she

wailed to

At

Mama, "What

seven,

dragged me, scared, scratched but unscathed from the soft earth. She
shook me to make sure I was alive and screamed up at Mama
hanging out the window, "If you don't do something about IT, no
one will ever marry 77"!

Hey Grandma, up there in the sky. Stop stirring chicken soup and
IT has been married more times than both o/ITs cousins

listen

put together!"

When you have a long nose, big ears, stringy hair, myopic eyesight,
crooked teeth and a figure all too human, you decide early on, it isn 7#

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

what you have, it's what you do with what you have that counts!
What counts most for a woman, or a man, is to be perfectly
comfortable with themselves, and to love what they are doing!
My premise is simple. Any person can ignite their imagination,
their ingenuity, to become a creative, interesting individual. You can
be what you want to be. You can do what you enjoy best. All it takes
is to be realistic about your goals, and then work at it! It is never
too early or too late to begin.

How does all this relate to "I HAVENT A THING TO WEAR!",

my show for 22 years and this book? It is the basis of

the subject of

me to illustrate how one can

and save substantial amounts of money on

a fashion philosophy that has enabled

stay timelessly in style

I have entertained audiences in the United States,

Canada, England and Ireland in a simple black dress and with a
suitcase of accessories. I have shown how easy it is to make an
individual fashion statement in a ready-to-wear-world
and spend

clothes. Since 1958

money!
I do it by approaching fashion in a conceptual manner, using
concepts to save time and money. The concepts will ease your frustration over what you know you can wear best, and what is being
designed. The concepts will help you swing from trend to trend so
that what you buy today will not be outdated next month.
very

little

The concepts

are:

COMFORTCONTOURCOLORCLASSICSCOORDINATION
We

discuss each of these in detail later on.

Despite having performed for more than 3,000 audiences in a

fashion program, I have no connection with the fashion industry. I

am as unknown in the showrooms of Seventh Avenue as I am in Paris

and I choose it that way. For me to successfully communicate concepts which relate to the average person,

influenced by high fashion

I do not wish to be unduly

whose designers create for the perfect

figure, the perfect face.

Clothes, accessories and

talented people

who want

makeup

are art forms, expressions of

the products of their creative energies

displayed in the most ideal manner, and they design for "models.
Since few of us are "tens" we need to individualize trends to fit our
frame, our face, our finances and our
extension of the

way

I live.

It

lifestyles.

My

show

is

an

translates the creativity of design to

The Concepts
the practical, everyday needs of the average person. Its purpose

show you how

save you money, and to

to be comfortable, chic

is

to

and

unique!

My audiences have ranged from the wives of top management at

companies such as Ford, Exxon, Kodak and Xerox to women inmates of Kansas State Prison and New York's Bedford Correctional
Facility, a maximum security institution. I have also appeared for
farm women in home extension workshops throughout Middle
crisp, competitive young corporate executives; supportive
and corporation wives; the wives of blue collar workers and
high school and college students.
Disparate in background and life-style, these women all express a
common interest, a common need. They want to be loved and they

America;
military

equate being loved with being beautiful.

And

beauty

ing healthy

is

possible for

and looking

all!

Knowing what

attractive

is

to

wear when,

the antidote for

all

feel-

the hellish

life. Throughout this book you

ways to enhance your looks, for beauty is an attainable goal

situations that surface in everyone's

will find
if

you

will

but reach for

it.

Women of all ages have more opportunity

for beauty than ever before, just as they have

comes to love.
Even in the most

isolated areas I find

more options when

it

women testing new lifestyles,

experimenting with ideas, changing not only their look, but their
outlook.

They

are aware, creative, adventurous; adopting

ing alternatives.

also find

them dressing with a

flair

and

and adaptwhich

style

reflects these new found freedoms for chic women are not confined
by geography. The antagonist to chic is not where one lives, but how
one thinks. I have seen unattractive, dowdy looking women in the
smartest cities and in the smartest places. And I have seem supremely stylish women in communities so small they still don't have

direct dialing.

Women do not resent changes in style; they look forward

to them,

providing they can coordinate them easily and economically with

what they have. They want new looks! They enjoy wearing exciting
designs which mirror their changing and growing attitudes, but

new

the high cost bothers them.

must dress

The high

Money

in the latest trends

is tight,

especially for those

who

because of business and social needs.

on young women:
homemakers. This strain can be eased by using
the conceptual approach to fashion ... the CONCEPTS
which
make it easy and economical to stay in style.
cost of clothes puts particular strain

students, careerists,

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

No

matter

how

varied the clothes in your closet.

No

how

No

matter

how

you may be with a

needle. No matter how "up" you are on the latest news from the
salons of New York, Paris, Milan and Rome. No matter how much
there will always be that special moment, that
money you have
special occasion when you honestly say. ... "I HAVEN'T A
you coordinate.

cleverly

matter

skilled

THING TO WEAR!"
The

concepts:

COMFORTCONTOURCOLOR-

CLASSICSCOORDINATIONare

for those

moments.

COMFORT comes first, because without your being totally comnothing

fortable,

is

going to work for you. The ultimate of style

is

on and wear it so comfortably that you

the same time look chic, smart and in step with

the ability to put something

forget

it

and, at

the vitality of

life.

Never sacrifice comfort for fashion. Not only the familiar aspect of
comfort as it regards fit, but the subtle psychological, social, and
financial considerations that encompass the full spectrum of what
comfort truly means, such

How
Is

it

do

it?

suitable?

make me look

Does

it

How

will

Can

feel in

as:

he

afford

Comfort
your

is

lovely?

like it?

it?

being honest with yourself; natural, in tune with your

and your needs. Trust yourself, your instincts,

your intuition. Do not be impatient. It takes time to establish style
because it takes time to understand what you are all about. And your
style will change as you change. Be prepared for all kinds of reactions
when you try the outrageous, the unpredictable, the non-conforming.
But that is the fun of trying new ideas. Just make sure that the
likes,

dislikes

essential, the

honest

YOU

is

always

visible, for

you know yourself

better than anyone.

Allow your personality, your

energies,

your

vitality,

your wit to

The Concepts
well up from within and reflect themselves in what you wear, in how
you look, for then you will be most comfortable. Comfortable people
set their own style. They are unique. They are creative. They are
special!

Understanding and incorporating all the other concepts enables

you to achieve comfort in clothes, cosmetics, hairstyles, and in the
way you live. Your comfort underlies all that we discuss in this book.
Every chapter is intended to help you achieve comfort; to cope
comfortably not only with changing fashions, but with your own
changing needs and desires.
When you accept what works best for you, what is most comfortaable, you will create the unusual, expressing a fashion image that is
your own, carefree and assured. Comfort makes you confident, and
confidence unleashes the power of your creative potential!
Comfort in clothes is a balance of mind and body thinking. To
understand your body best, we explore the second concept
.

CONTOUR.

2
Contour

or

Does the End

Justify the Jeans?

When
.

the shape you are

in,

is

not the shape you want to be

be very careful of the shapes you buy, or to put

it

more

succinctly,

does the end justify the jeans?

If

you want to look terrific in clothes, know your body and its
Use contour and camouflage to compensate for figure

proportions.
faults.

Your body

the result of generations of genes; your mother's

is

and exercise habits, and

you are disciplined and dedicated, you can
improve this heritage with diet and exercise, but those unseen, unalterable, and unforgiving genes have made your essential shape, and

pre-natal diet; your adolescent nutrition

your current

life-style. If

while genetic engineering in the future

tioned people

may create perfectly proporIN THE MEANTIME?

WHAT DO YOU DO

You perfect the art of balance, harmony, line, so that what you wear
an illusion of beauty, and of perfect proportion.

creates

Very few

women are perfect. More than

alterations in ready-to-wear

some know themselves so

and

50 percent need extensive

in patterns for

well, the clothes they

home

sewing, yet

wear create an aura

of perfect proportions.

A
rent

young woman named Sandi, phoned one day

mother's chalet which is adjacent to my

my

to ask

if I

would

ski cabin. Living

Contour
one becomes casual about clothes. I had been busy
morning reading manuscripts before the fire and was dressed in
jeans and a cotton turtleneck shirt. Sandi's appearance that blustery
spring morning was a welcome surprise. I had expected another
jeans-clad person. She wore a handsome beige wool suit with a small
patterned beige and brown silk shirt and a smartly tied silk scarf.
Elegant leather boots and a rakishly tilted hat completed the attractive ensemble. She was warm, outgoing, immensely attractive and we
in the country,

all

Her overall
was startled when I realized she was not a
particularly pretty girl. Her features were irregular, her hair and skin
poor, yet she was lovely to look at. I rented the chalet to Sandi and
as we became friends, my admiration for her grew. A single girl in
her mid-twenties, earning only a modest salary, Sandi is one of the
best dressed women I know. Her figure is unproportioned with narrow shoulders, small bosom, slender waist, heavy hips, thighs and
chatted animatedly.

look was so splendid,

learned of her interest in clothes.

I

buttocks. Dressed, Sandi gives the illusion of a perfectly propor-

tioned figure because she

knows

what looks best on her and is

is uncompromising in her
balance and fit.
just

brutally honest about her figure faults. She

choice of

The

line, color, texture,

best

way

to

know your

figure

is

to get

barer, the better, although a bathing suit will

down
do

to bare facts: the

for the

more

timid.

Stand in front of a good quality, full length mirror. Cheap mirrors

are distorting, and a three-way mirror is expensive. But a quality,
single pane, full length mirror

is

a necessary fashion investment for

any woman.

To compare oneself with the ideal figure is unimportant, but since so

many are curious to see just how close they can come to what is considered "ideal"

It is

I offer

a symmetrical

an outline of the perfectly proportioned body:

"T"

with the distance from the hipbone to the

top of head equalling the distance from the hipbone to

feet.

Knees,

evenly divide the lower half.

Bust and hip measurement are the same, with waist ten inches
less.

Elbows meet

waistline; fingertips touch mid-thigh.

Width across shoulders equals distance from neck

Well formed shoulders mark the "T."
across shoulders

If clothes

and back, posture must be

erect.

to waist.

are to

fit

well

10

Contour
If

you are

interested in

making comparisons with the foregoing, you

can take the follo_wing measurements:

Hipbone

to top of

knees down

across shoulders

knees up hipbone
hipbone
nape of neck back of waistwidth

head

to feet

to

to feet
to

width around

bust, waist, hips, wrist.

A wrist measurement of six inches or less connotes a small to medium boned person; over six inches generally means one is largeboned. Mirror analysis of your own figure is more important than
evaluating

it

in relation to the "ideal" shape.

Knowing your body,

your face and its features and honestly recognizing its proportions
and the way you carry yourself, helps you select the lines, the shapes,
the silhouettes which enhance.

Use a hand-held mirror and turn slowly before the

mirror to see yourself from every angle. This

is

how

full

length

others see you.

Note the way you hold your head. Is it straight, ears above shoulders
it forward? Observe your neck. Determine if it is long,
short, thick, thin. Look at your chin from several angles. Step back
and look at your eyes. Are they wide-set, close-set, deep-set; small,
large, baggy? Your ears, do they lie flat or fan out? Is your hairline
or do you jut

full,

sparse, overgrown, or evenly shaped?

Are your shoulders wide, narrow, or sloping?

or do you slouch? Make a mental note of the
breasts,

Do

you stand

rest of

erect

your body:

upper arms, forearms, waist, stomach, hips, buttocks, thighs,

your legs. Decide which are the most

and which need camouflage.
Do you pass the pencil test? If your breasts are firm and high and
will not hold a pencil beneath the bottom folds, you will look attractive in clothes without a brassiere. Always wear a brassiere however
calves, ankles, the length of

attractive features

while participating in active sports.

If you have cellulite, diet and exercise will be beneficial, but in the
meantime vow, never to wear close fitting pants, particularly polyester

which reveals cellulite right through the fabric!

know

you are short-waisted, average, or longway clothes fit. Turn your

back to mirror. Visually note difference from waist to bottom of
buttocks. If it looks longer than distance from waist to armpits, you
are short-waisted. If the distance from waist to bottom looks shorter,
you are long-waisted. If there is little visual difference you are averIt is

helpful to

if

waisted because this directly affects the

11

"I Haven't a Thing To

age.

If

you are short-waisted, you probably have long

waisted people generally have shorter

Wear!"

legs.

Long

legs.

If what you see in the mirror displeases you, and if your measurements vary radically from the "ideal" do not be concerned, you are
in the majority. Few women like the reflection they see, and high
fashion photographic, showroom and runway models seldom measure up. Many have elongated bodies with narrow, sloping shoulders;
infinitesimal bosoms; bony hips; flat rears and stringy arms and legs.
Thank goodness our success does not depend on our bodies!

HEMLINES AND BODY SHAPES

When

the

first

edition of "I

HAVEN'T A THING TO WEAR!"

was published in 1968, I wrote

"It is never the length of the
hemline one should be concerned with, but the total look one wishes
to achieve, coupled with the length of one's leg." This was just prior
to the miniskirt craze. How I hated to see miniskirts on "maximums!" Hemlines depend on body shape, legs, ankles, feet and shoes.
Too long a skirt shortens a person. Too short a skirt makes a tall
woman stilt-like. While current fashion is important, the key word
concerning hemlines and fashion trends is compromise. Modify hemlines to suit your shape and still convey a sense of style.
To determine the best hemline for you, take the mirror test. While
.

in front of the

mirror observing your figure, drape a large towel,

around your body. Tie or pin ends around

Choose three pair of shoes
with varying heel heights and styles. Put each pair on and adjust
drape to create a hemline which looks best with each heel height,
and the length of your lower leg. This should be where you wear
sheet, or length of fabric

neck. Put a belt on to hold drape in place.

hemlines.

Those with

specific

problems such as knock-knees, fleshy knees or

One of my relatives has badly

bowlegs, should wear hemlines longer.

bowed

legs, and wears longer skirts, no matter what the current style.
She seldom wears straight skirts, preferring the more flattering Aline and softly gathered dirndl-types. She is tall enough to carry the

longer, fuller look. If she were shorter and heavier, her skirts could
not be worn as long, despite the bowed legs. My admiration for her

was boundless during the miniskirt era. She refused to wear skirts
above the knee and she looked elegant while many others looked
sadly out of place in miniskirts.

12

Contour

PROPER FIT AND BODY SHAPES

The way

clothes

design. Clothes

fit

which

as important as color, texture, line and

handsomely, laying smoothly and neatly on

is

fit

the body, lend a look of quality. Well fitting, inexpensive clothes are

more

attractive than costly designs

it

Many

which droop.

enjoy wear-

and bag, thinking

more often is one
the
effect
devil-may-care-attitude,
but
expresses a

ing casual clothes

which wrinkle,

slope, cinch, sag

of carelessness rather than chic.

Good

fitting clothes

are essential to a well turned out look, and for

the less than perfect, unproportioned person,

If you are

one of the 50 percent of women

include this cost

when planning

Do

fit.

who

require alterations,

purchases. If the outfit you like

too tight, buy the next size larger and have

seams on too-tight clothes places

paramount!

fit is

not compromise on anything less than perfect

stress

on

it

fitted

fabrics

is

down. Opening

and shortens wear.

Needle and stitching marks show on certain fabrics and seams can
split at

inopportune times. In

shoulders

fitting

down

larger sizes,

make

sure

fit.

Before you leave a dressing

room with your new

TING ROOM CALISTHENICS.

It

clothes,

do FIT-

prevents costly mistakes.

arms overhead. See how the garment rides.

at back of outfit. If it shows every line
of your bra, the top is too tight. Most importantly, SIT
in
the outfit, before you buy it. Many dressing rooms have chairs; if
there are none, ask for one. Observe the look while seated and make
sure fit is comfortable and not too tight.
Sandy Sprung, whose weight loss is the subject of "CANDY,
CHOCOLATE, ICE CREAM 'N
TO LICK 'EM!" (Tandem
Press, 1973), a book we co-authored, would treat herself at various
plateaus to new outfits. She reached a size at which she felt attractive
in a pants suit. A boutique near her Greenwich Village apartment
featured a stunning grey silk pant suit in the window. Sandy bought
Swing arms wide.

Lift

Fold arms across chest. Look

DOWN

HOW

it.

The pants were tight, but she rationalized that since she planned
more weight, they would fit eventually and until then, the long

to lose

was effective camouflage.

was not with her when she bought the outfit, but I accompanied her to the party at which she first wore it. All of our
friends complimented Sandy on her slimmer self and the lovely
ensemble. After a while, giddy from the admiration and the
tunic blouse
I

13

"/
drinks,

Haven V a Thing To Wear!"

Sandy plopped down on the sofa and everyone

room heard

in

the

the pants explode!

THE BODY SHAPES (sketch

Physiologically,

1)

body types have been categorized

into three

shapes:

MESOMORPH the classic, athletic figure with wide shoulders,

broad chest, narrow hips, muscular arms and legs. Most mesomorphs are aggressive, competitive and domineering. Often they are
champion athletes, enjoy physical exercise and action. They are adventurous and play to win.

ENDOMORPHstocky,
plump arms and

legs.

round body with short thick neck; short

Most endomorphs are overweight with easy

going, placid dispositions,

and

their reactions are generally slower.

ECTOMORPHThe figure extolled by high fashion; tall, thin, narrow angular body; slender arms, legs; long, stringy muscles. The true
ectomorph is sensitive, tense and can be neurotic. Mentally they are
alert, intelligent and generally are in the best health of the three body
types.

Since there are many variables to these three basic body shapes
and many have multiple characteristics of all three, I have formulated a group of six figure types which I have culled from observing

thousands of

women

at

my

shows.

BIG AND BOUNTIFUL

PETITE

UMBRELLA
KEEL-HEAVY
TALL AND THIN
LITTLE ORPHAN A VERA GE
Amongst
5'6";

these six groups are those

short-waisted,

Those with heavy

bowed

14

legs;

long-waisted,

who

(sketch 2)

are under 5'3" and over

small-waisted,

thick-waisted.

thighs, hips, buttocks; fleshy knees, thick ankles,

short necks, long necks; sloping shoulders, narrow

Sketch

A
A

Endomorph

Ectomorph

15

"I Haven't a
shoulders; skinny arms, heavy
is

when we recognize our

number of

arms

liabilities

that

Thing To Wear!"

and cellulite. No matter, it

we make assests of ourselves.
.

body shapes
and in some instances, contradictory. This
is because the advice on what to avoid, and what to choose relates
to more than one body shape. Excessive contrasts in color, texture,
line and design are as difficult to wear for one woman of a particular
size and shape as another. There are infinite variables both in body
shapes, and in design which relate to all.
To successfully camouflage an unproportioned figure requires a
subtle touch and a sense of balance in choosing color, texture, line
and design. One must create a harmonic symmetry with proportion
and composition. The categories which follow lists ideas not only for
the six figure shapes, but for specific parts of the face and body. Since
these are generalizations meant for the majority, individual likes,
dislikes and experiences with clothes and accessories will create exceptions to what is advised.
Do not be concerned. You either know your body better than
anyone or you are preparing to do so with this book. Since your
comfort and ease with clothes is what is most important, a compromise must be struck between what is suggested, what you enjoy and
what you are used to wearing. If I have recommended avoiding items
for your figure type that you wear and are comfortable with, reconsider them in the full length mirror. On the other hand if I have listed
as a "good choice" an item which is anathema to you, why not give
it a try? All you have to lose is the same old image!

may seem

the suggestions listed for the various

to be repetitive,

BIG AND BOUNTIFUL

You were born
woman,

many

you are a truly

If you would
rather not diet, don't despair, you can look beautiful and many men
prefer big, bountiful, loving women. Fashion would rather you
disappeared, and it does little to help you. High fashion designers do
not allow their clothes to be shown on heavier women and most also
limit their dress sizes. Others however, are creating good designs
which enhance the big and bountiful person. These clothes can be
found in better specialty shops catering exclusively to the larger
sensuous

woman,

16

either with a great

fat cells or

enjoying every delicious dish you eat.

or in special sections of better quality department stores.

Sketch 2

Basic

Figure
Big

&

Bountiful

Keel Heavy

Tall

&

Thin

Average

Shapes

Umbrella

Petite

17

"/ Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

tight! Nothing makes a woman look heavier than

garment which hugs! Beware of tight fitting sheaths and skirts
which hug the hip and tuck in under buttocks. Too-tight pants which
show cellulite. Vivid colors which screech, "Look how BIG I am!"
Two-tone colors which cut your figure in half. Other choices which
must be carefully considered are: bold plaids, patterns and horizontal
lines which pattern you big. Heavy, bulky fabrics, body clinging
knits, too-full skirts, big flares, boxy pleats and pockets, if not care-

A VOID: Anything
a

full

proportioned

will

make you look

heavier.

and wide
you have an ample bosom) capes, flounces,
showy belts, tucked-in shirts, sleeveless blouses and dresses. Dolman
and full, deep-cut armholes can also be overwhelming. Do not be
seen with long-haired furs except at the end of a leash! And ... no
Bermuda or short shorts unless you come equipped with a rear view

Be wary

also of short, boxy, double-breasted jackets

lapels, (especially if

mirror!

CHOOSE:

Soft, flowing, fluid lines

cuts; softly gathered,

sleeves in

gored

such as A-lines; eased or bias

knife-edge pleats. Slender, set-in

lines;

elbow or long lengths. Muted pretty colors as well as

woman need not limit herself to dark

dramatic dark tones. The big

colors.

Large
texture

women

can wear bright and bouncy colors providing the

of the fabric

is

understated and subdued. For example,

choose a beaded, sequined or patterned evening dress, avoid

if

you

HOT-

PINK! You

could wear a beaded, sequined or patterned dress in

dusky tones of grey, rose, blue, green or brown. To contrast colors,
choose soft tones and wear them close to the face where they cast
loving light and shadows. Do not contrast colors on waist and hips.
Flatly woven fabrics such as gabardines, fine wool, cotton and silk
are flattering; as are flat furs such as broadtail, karacul, and persian
lamb. Narrow belts will narrow the look. If you wear a skirt and
blouse or a two-tone colored dress with belt,

of the blouse rather than the

Long

sleeves are kinder to

make

heavy arms, and chiffon sleeves are an

attractive accent for evening. Suit jackets should

semi-fitted or slightly loose fitting.

a jacket

is

more

the belt the color

skirt.

be below the hip;

A single center vent at the back of

slenderizing than side vents, which

make

hips look

larger.

Accessories for the big and bountiful person should be scaled to

size,

18

with quality far more important than quantity. Slender people

Contour
can wear outrageous, showy accents, but the big person needs elegant
understatement. Select the best you can afford in jewelry, scarves,
shoes, handbags, hats

and

belts.

A VOID: Round looks at the throat; choker type necklaces;

collars; flouncy scarves; jewel necklines; small,

tied

round

Peter Pan

hats; scarves

babushka style; tiny handbags or anything scaled too small for

size. If hands and arms are chubby, forego chunky bracelets.

your

Compromise with

accessories that are not too big, too small, too

bright, too bold, too colorful.

CHOOSE:
lapels;

V- or U-shaped necklines; narrow, shawl type collars and

jewelry and scarves in long lengths which elongate and slen-

Hats of

derize.

width and height to balance your overall

on a big woman than a little pot sitting

sufficient

shape. Nothing looks

sillier

When

make sure to look

Most millinery departments have
only table top mirrors. Take the hat and walk over to a full length
mirror and check the balance and harmony of the line.
on top of her head!

choosing a hat, always

at yourself in a full length mirror.

Clothes

fitted for

around

in a tent.

woman should be eased:

need for a larger person to walk

the big and bountiful

not too loose, not too tight.

No

She can look handsome, elegant and

and pants.

feel attractive

in well fitted suits, dresses, skirts, blouses

Big, bountiful people

example, a large
feet,

but

if

have to be careful of excessive contrast. For

woman might have slender legs and beautiful,

highlight these lovely features, the contrast

tion to the incongruity of her size.

should choose a smart, classic

quality with a

handsome

pump

is

too great, calling atten-

Compromise

heel; rather

or an ultra-high fashion spike.

which

small

she chooses very high fashion shoes with spindly heels to

slit

to call attention to lovely legs

is

kinder and she

or sandal shoe of excellent

than a cloddy, "sensible" shoe

would be another way

and pretty feet.

skirt

in

PETITE
The

colors,

shapes and designs which the small-boned person

list for the heavy woman, for scale

and size are of utmost importance to both. Proportion and balance
compliments the softer, rounder lines of a heavy figure, as well as the

should avoid almost duplicates the

delicate stature of a petite person.

19

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

A VOID:

and two-tone color combinations

you short. Wide belts, fully gathered skirts, horizontal
patterns, huge prints; heavy, bulky fabrics, boxy jackets, shaggy
coats and furs. Large handbags, giant-sized jewelry, big hats,
hairdoes will overwhelm you; as will layering, unless carefully coorBright, contrasting colors

that slice

No

dinated with small-scaled items.

ruffles at

cluttering scarves,

bows or

the neckline.

CHOOSE:

Fitted fashions, detailed delicately.

Empire

waistlines,

princess lines, high necklines, light colors. Boleros, vests, toreador

matador pants. Slim-legged pants lend a lengthening line.

make your legs look longer. Match shoes and
hats to draw the eye to your entire length. Uncluttered clothes and
accessories, scaled small will make you look neat, trim and taller.
Complement rather than conceal your fragile, feminine beauty with

jackets,

Wear

short jackets to

overpowering fashions.

Hemlines for the small

Balance and proportion

woman should not be too short or too long.

is

important. If leg

ankle, the hemline can be longer.

Most

petite

is

long from knee to

women

look better in

higher heeled, slenderly cut, strapless type shoes. Avoid clunky shoes

and fancy, patterned hose which draw the eye down.

TALL AND THIN

In

my

happiest fantasy

having just
other, but

won

it is

awaken

5'

10"

the millionaire lottery!

tall,

One

weighing 125 pounds,

is

as unlikely as the

fun fantasizing.

My son Jonathan made his fantasy come true! He was determined

and thin. The men in our family are of medium height, but
Jonathan wanted to tower over his older brother, Jeff. As a baby
Jonathan was round, ruddy, raucous. Later, as a small boy he was
to be tall

short, stocky

and no one

He hung from a chinning bar, stretchAt school he took up wrestling. Suddenly

and mischievous.

ing, stretching, stretching.

remembers when, he was 6' 3" tall, weighing 160

who was born lean and long is just 6 feet tall.
woman can wear almost everything in fashion, but

really

pounds! His brother

The

tall,

thin

even she must be selective, for neither is she perfectly proportioned.

Her posture
BE EXCELLENT! A tall person who slouches

MUST

accentuates her height and destroys the line of her clothes. Be proud

of towering beauty and carry

20

it

gracefully!

Contour

A VOID:
slim,

Slinky,

skimpy hemlines; pencil

clinging clothes; short,

unbroken one-color

lines.

waistlines: lean coats; dark,

Unbelted, tubular shapes; empire

somber

colors;

all

make your

angles

acute!

CHOOSE:

Lines that swing; fabrics that

float,

such as chiffons,

gauzes, voiles; woolens with weight, in tweeds, mohair and bulky

weaves; velvets; textures;

tively. Plaids, prints,

and proudly.

all tailor

the

tall,

more seducthem plentifully

accents add contour to
thin lady

pockets, pleats, peplums; wear

Belts, buckles, boots, bags; big

an otherwise skinny shape. Scarves, bows, blousons

fill

you

out. All

colors, bright, blending or contrasting, are yours to enjoy. Black out

black unless dramatized with contrast, either soft or vivid. Revel in

all

the rounded looks; layering; fabric

new, the untried, the

upon

OUTRAGEOUS

that

fabric; line on line; the

no one wears as well as

you!

While

tall,

thin

Many

essential.

women have

few problems with clothes,

have small hips and

rears,

Eliminate extra fabric in the seat of trousers so they

Skirts are

more

flattering to a very thin

they lend a softer,

lovely,

more feminine

is

especially true if

passion however, wear

woman

fit

smoothly.

than pants, because

Two-piece ensembles are also

rear better than a one-piece
the outfit is a knit. If pants are your
line.

because they camouflage a

dress. This

fitting is

and pants can look baggy.

them with

flat

flowing, loosely fitted tops.

UMBRELLA-SHAPE
Insisting

on the very best

fit

in brassieres

choice of clothes, reproportions those

who

and being careful

in

are full-bosomed. Gener-

with slimmer hips and thighs, the umbrellashaped person looks best in subdued color with little accent above the

ally short-waisted,

waist.

A VOID:

Tight tops and sheer or clinging fabrics which show bralines

cowl necklines and turtlenecks; princess and

bows, and jewelry at the throat;
embroidered or shirred blouses; dolman, puffy or full

as well as round, square,

empire

line dresses; frills, flounces,

pockets; tabs;

sleeves; double-breasted jackets; light-colored tops; tucked-in

shirts;

worn open), wide belts, buckles,

stripes, bulky fabrics and layering.

sweaters (unless they are cardigans

cinched waist-lines; horizontal

21

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

CHOOSE:

V-necklines,

muted colors

close to the face; small collars;

open
unadorned bodices and dresses which move softly and gracefully. If you wear jewelry or scarves, select longer lengths.
Most large bosomed women require special fitting. Their tops need
to be let out, and skirts taken in. Separates offer an easier solution
darker tops over pants or

skirts; longer, loosely structured,

jackets;

than one-piece dresses. Since so

in

many attractive choices are available

both casual and dressy separates, the umbrella shaped person can

be easily suited.

KEEL-HEA VY
Most American women are smaller on top than

at

bottom, and

again balance reproportions for an attractive look.

A VOID: Anything

that cuts at the waist, accenting hips

such as dark tops with light pants, or

gathered

fully

lines; all

fetas,

widen

Forego clinging

and bottom

Short jackets; wide

pleats; large patterns;

skirts;

hips.

skirts.

jersey,

belts;

bold plaids; princess

bulky wools, shiny

taf-

No back
NO SHORTS,

brocades, velvets or wide- wale corduroy below the waist.

pockets, stitching or other accents either.

unless your legs are

CHOOSE:
gored

And please,

good and you wear a longer, loose flowing

top.

Smaller patterns in angular designs rather than circular,

skirts,

eased A-lines; empire

lines;

full cut,

loose, unfitted

worn open, mid-length jackets

and longer jackets if you are taller; tunic

clothes; gently gathered skirts; vests

if

you are short (under 5'3")

narrow belts worn loosely;

tops;

hour-glass figure with a tightly

all

are flattering.

drawn

belt; it

Do

not accent an

only emphasizes hips

and bottom.

PANTS SUITS can be worn by heavy hipped women! If worn with

a loose jacket, with another layer under the jacket or a tunic top, the

pant suit will conceal big hips and rear end. Matching a hat to the
blouse or combining color in hat and handbag, and keeping accessories

coordinated to the top of the

outfit, lift

the eye

away from

hips

and bottom.
Shoulder fit on small-busted, heavy-hipped women is important
and separates are more functional and versatile. Most small-busted

22

Contour

women have

attractive shoulders; therefore accent this feature with

shirring, yokes, tucking,

and

tabs.

These are

all

smocking, gathers, embroidery, pockets,

lovely details

which

lift

the eye off hips and

bottoms.

LITTLE ORPHAN A VERAGE

You would

think the average sized woman, somewhere between

57"
and
with proportions which present no particular problems
would not be puzzled about what to wear. Not so. She can be more
5'4"

often typical than topical unless she skillfully establishes a unique

fashion image. Since she can wear almost anything, her fashion
identity could

become confusing unless she

ignites

an individual look

with creative coordinating.

Average sized women of moderate proportions have

figure prob-

For example, I am somewhat average size, but I have a thick

waist and round stomach which makes me seem more short waisted
than my measurements show. I try not to change color at the waist
and I gave up my belts two inches ago. On the rare occasion when
I wear a belt I push it below my natural waistline. I prefer overlems.

blouses and shirts atop skirts and pants, but sometimes there
the special shirt which looks best

when tucked

in. I

is

then add a belt

same color, or a color which blends softly with the shirt

and hike the top up a bit to camouflage my waist. Sometimes I
add a third layer shirt wearing it open so that the belt is seen only
from the front. If I were small busted, I could wear a vest as the
either the

third layer, but

my

bra size precludes

this. I

rather than to skirts or pants because

look of

my

it

match

belts to

my

tops

helps to slenderize the

waistline.

Additional variables in physical characteristics affect clothing

choices.

To narrow

it

down even more,

the following offers specific

guidelines.

Face and neck are to be considered in tandem when selecting line

and color. One might have a round, squat face and a long neck; a
strong jawline or a receding chin. Others a long, angular face and a
short neck. Women with round faces should avoid necklines which
emphasize that roundness such as the jewel, scoop or boat neck. V
and square necklines are better. Women with angular, long faces

23

7 Haven't

a Thing To Wear!"

women

should avoid V-necklines and severe colors. Square jawed

look best in necklines which add length such as the V, the square,
the scoop.

Women

with thin faces look better in cowls, scoops,

turtlenecks and bateau necklines.

ROUND FACE AND SHORT NECK

Lengthen the
small,

neck

open

is

shirt.

line

with V-necklines and open collars. If bust

is

You might be able to wear a scoop neckline if your

not heavy and you are slender overall. Avoid turtlenecks,

high collars, jewel and Peter Pan collars; round-necked T-shirts;

choker type jewelry, big earrings,

full

scarves and other

full,

round

Forego flouncey, fancy hairdoes which frame the face. Hair

is better brushed away and up from the neck. If you have a double
chin, wear long jewelry accents or scarves tied low. Keep knot in
details.

scarf or pendant

on jewelry below

bustline.

ANGULAR FACE AND LONG NECK

Like the lucky person with a

tall,

thin figure, the

woman

with a

neck can wear beautiful accents at the throat. Her

only limitation is the shape of her face when choosing extreme lines.
long, swanlike

If she

has a

medium

or roundish face, she can enhance a long neck

with deep plunging V-necklines in

soft, floating fabrics. If

her face

narrow and angular, she would be better off in higher collars,

ruffles, soft, rounded scarves. Most long-necked women look smashing in boat-necks, turtlenecks, cowl, mandarin and button-down

is

collars.

Exotic evening necklines are good unless one's shoulders are

too broad, too narrow or sloping. Try one-shoulder dresses, halters

and

strapless tops.

Hair

is

better

worn longer and

fuller. If

choosing

a severe, "small head" style, consider the shape of your face.

Too

long a face, or a heavy jaw requires soft hair accents.

SHOULDERS
Broad shoulders: avoid cape, dolman and puffy

padded
and wide,
horizontal designs. The look is softer if you narrow shoulders by
illusion. Choose a smaller top or have the garment fitted so that the
sleeves,

shoulders, sleeveless dresses as well as bateau necklines

24

__

Contour

shoulder seam
kinder than

sits inside

stiff,

your true shoulder

line.

ungiving materials which

Soft fabric tops are

make

shoulders look

massive. Beware of square looks.

Narrow or sloping
sleeveless

and

shoulders:

halter tops.

Avoid

You need

raglan,

and dolman

sleeves;

the softness of set-in sleeves that

have fullness such as puffs or gathers. Another good choice is cap

and jackets, bulky fabrics and fully-

sleeves. Turtlenecks, large coats

cut big tops overpower narrow shoulders. Instead, wear small collars,

boat necklines, padded shoulders.

shoulder look, have the seam

sit

To

create the illusion of a wider

outside your shoulder

line.

BOSOMS
Large or small bosomed women do not have insurmountable probin choosing clothes because good brassiere construction solves
most faults. Psychologically if your breasts are too much, or too little
for you, consult a qualified and well-recommended plastic surgeon.
There is no reason to be unhappy or uncomfortable. What you
haven't got, you can get, and in this wonderful day and age, why not?
If you do not have the desire or the means to surgically change your
body, wear good fitting brassieres and have them custom made if
lems

necessary.

Do

not skimp on the cost. Find an experienced

value her expertise. The no-bra look

is

fitter

and

only for those who can pass the

and even then not wearing a bra over a period of time

any sport
is
unwise, because bosoms slacken sooner without needed support.
Natural, unseamed cups are more flattering than bras which give a
super pointed look and are pulled too tightly.
If you are large bosomed, avoid tight tops (especially knits); clinging fabrics, wide belts, princess lines, pockets and other details on
blouses and dress tops; puffy and dolman sleeves. You will look
smaller in anything loose on top: V-necklines, open collars, blouses in

pencil

test,

especially while running, jogging or participating in

soft fabrics such as silk.

.

Those who are

reveals

how

flat

tiny

on top are wise

to reject anything

which

chested they are. Avoid tight clinging knits and

Choose instead full, loose, easy flowing tops in pretty prints

and colors accented with shirring, yokes, smocking, gathers, tucks,
embroidery and pockets. If you wear a padded bra make it subtle.
T-shirts.

25

"I Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

ARMS
Heavy or
sleeves.

too-thin

For both, the

arms are

best camouflaged with loose fitting

sleeveless look

is

unattractive,

and

tight fitting

sleeves in clinging fabrics also underscore skinny or too-heavy arms.

Choose

Long

instead, coverage in soft, sheer materials.

sleeves;

elbow length sleeves with bottoms turned up in casual folds, are

attractive alternatives. Consider shoulders as well as arms when
selecting

garments with

sleeves.

WAISTLINES
The uncorseted body

is

the most comfortable and

how

delightful

that waists need not be cinched to Scarlett O'Hara's legendary 18

inch

circlet.

satisfied

and

The

natural look

is

acceptable, yet few

women

are

with their waistlines. Since waistlines reveal weight gains

most readily, they are the easiest to control with diet and
you choose not to discipline yourself and you are content
with your body, yet unhappy about your waistline, use contour to
camouflage. Some waistline problems have nothing to do with
weight. Those are: thick waists in proportion to the rest of your body;
losses

exercise. If

too small a waist in the hour-glass figure; the short-waisted; the

long-waisted.

The

thick- or short-waisted

do

best to avoid wide belts; wide waist-

bands; waist wraps; dirndl and fully gathered

skirts.

Short, fitted

jackets; hip-hugger pants; two-tone or bright color combinations that

break at the waist also accentuate girth.

Better choices are:

overblouses; unbelted tunics; blouson style

and sportswear; loose jackets and jackets worn open.

Two-color dressing s fine, if the colors are muted and blend softly.
Vests and empire lines can be attractive if one has a small bosom.
Wearing narrow belts the color of the top rather than the skirt or
pants is also good camouflage.
dresses, blouses

Lucky, lucky is the long-waisted woman. Even if her waist is less

than slender she looks slim. If she is truly reed-like she can wear
wonderful wide accents. Separates and layered clothes look sensa-

on her as well. The one look she must beware of is a long, lean
unbroken line in a tight fitting, knitted top.

tional

26

Contour

STOMACHS
How

well

know

the problem of a round, protruding stomach!

When I was ten I went to live with my Aunt Helen. My grandmother

who had cared for me died, and my mother needed time to readjust.
I was stringy and skinny. My aunt called me "Bean." Aunt Helen
was a working woman, and to save time she would bathe
June, then eight, and

me

together.

One

out of the tub

Aunt Helen exclaimed, "My word, Bean,

that

it's

pot,

little

the only part of you that's round."

and I patted the "little pot."

something June did not have.

my

particular night as

thought

it

cousin

stepped

just look at

We all laughed

mark of

distinction,

How that pot has plagued me all my life! As I grew older and
began to observe the bodies on other girls, I realized it was unnatural,
particularly since I was athletic and exercised regularly. When I lose
weight it becomes smaller, but my stomach has never been flat. It was
not until

met Dr. Ralph Shaw of Hahnemann Hospital

phia, a leading expert in metabolic disorders, that

who

eat too

much

in Philadel-

learned people

sugar and not enough protein develop pot-like

stomachs and thick middles as part of the hyperinsulinism syndrome,

drome.

My diet
My eating

as a child undoubtedly contributed to this figure fault.

was unsupervised. My mother was at work, my grandmother too ill and unknowing to guide me. I ate what tasted
best; what I could grab quickly; sugared foods, candy, cake, ice
cream. It was only later when my interest in nutrition was
sparked by working for Dr. Robert Anderson, one of the early
nutritionists, that

had been. Today

however,

fly

do not want

realized
eat

little

how

badly balanced

my

adolescent diet

sugar, salt or processed foods.

with a Hershey bar, because

if

On

the plane goes

tour,

down,

to die dieting!

To camouflage my round stomach I wear A-lines, eased and gored

some skirts with sewn down pleats or stitching. If

skirts as well as

the stitching or pleat

accenting

its

is

short,

it

will

my stomach,
me as are side details,

not draw in under

roundness. Bias cuts are good for

and side zippers. I prefer flat fabrics such as gabarines and fine wools.
I avoid bulky, nubby materials, fully gathered skirts, wide belts, fly
front and pleated pants. Sometimes I hike a dress up a bit with a
narrow belt and blouse it, easing tightness over the stomach.

27

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

HIPS
Since hips can present a problem in

all

figure shapes, following

is

and easy recap. If you are heavy hipped, avoid; tight, straight
and pants; fully gathered skirts and dirndls; pleated pants,

a quick
skirts

horizontal stripes, brassy colors, clinging fabrics, front or rear patch

pockets, back zippers, tucked-in shirts.

you have a small waistline in relation to hip size do not cinch

tight, wide belt; choose a narrow, looser belt. The small
waist is attractive, but you sacrifice the elegance a subdued, well
proportioned look offers by blatantly highlighting an hour-glass
If

it

with a

figure.

skirts

Your proportions
and pants

suits,

are better in eased A-lines, lightly gathered

provided the pants suit

is

worn with a loose

fitting overblouse, tunic or jacket.

My

aunt Lil has instinctive good

three inches

tall

and when wearing a

pants lengthen the

suit,

line.

heavy hipped, short

skirt

She

taste.

is less

than

five feet,

with an ample waistline and hips. She dislikes skirts

wears only pants. Skirts cut her

The proportion of a

woman

is

delicate,

in half,

jacket and skirt on a

with both the hemline of the

and that of the jacket to be considered.

It is

so subtle and so

variable with each individual that mistakes in proportion can easily

be made. Wearing pants solves this problem because of the overall

linear look.

But keep the jacket, tunic or vest on; otherwise the

lengthening, slenderizing effect

is

gone.

and color above the waist brings the eye up off the
hips, as will monotone outfits and dark colored bottoms. Whatever
you wear on the hips, it is best loose, unfitted. Check hemline
Scarves, jewelry

diameter in a

full

length mirror

when buying new

clothes. See if

it is

proportion to your hips. Narrow, skimpy hemlines accentuate the

size of large hipped women.
in

If thighs

and buttocks are heavy the same advice applies, with one
Do not wear tight legged pants, or pants so tight

additional caution:

in the buttocks that every indentation shows.

accomodate heavy thighs and have them

Buy

fitted

larger size pants to

down.

SHORT LEGS
Women
legs

textures

28

under 5 '3" and

should keep

and

woman

lines longs,

color.

Long

of average height who have short

unbroken, using linear accents in both

sleeves,

medium width

belts, fitted jackets,

Contour

short-hair furs, knife-edge pleated skirts

worn over
head to
riding

worn over

slim boots, pants

from
Forego anything that brings the eye down such as a lowpegged pants, horizontal stripes, hip-huggers, pedal

instep, vertical stripes; all lend a leaner, longer line

toe.

belt,

pushers.

Being aware of your body makes you the best judge of what is most
and suitable for you. If you are uncertain about a particu-

attractive
lar line,

a particular design, confide in someone you trust.

the salesperson trying to

sell

Do not

ask

you the item, unless you know her well

and your relationship is one of long standing.

Knowing your body breeds confidence. You will make the right
decision! You need not be a slave to fashion's dictates. Set your own
style. Create your own trends. Wear what you choose, when! If high
fashion is very important to you and you enjoy adopting each new
look as it hits the market, and you have the money to do so, it may
be necessary for you to modify trendy new lines to suit your shape.
Why not? Clever compromises often work better than total compliance.

Contouring and camouflage should be used only to compliment

and flatter the physical you. It should not intrude on your personality, which enhances and strengthens any look you choose. Certainly
the ensemble which pleases you most will spark your personality,
creating facets which will bounce, sparkle and make you feel terrific!
The more sensational you feel, the more confident you become.
Suddenly you begin a new adventure, choosing clothes in designs,
in colors, in textures you never thought you would wear. As simple
a concept as COLOR, which we discuss next, takes on new meaning
as you recognize how color compliments complexions, enhances
moods and lends softness or clarity to body shapes. Suddenly you
begin to use the

full

spectrum of color to cloak yourself in sensuality

and you experiment more and more with color, shape and coordination, using clothes as canvases on which to imprint new personalities.
Dressing now becomes a wonderfully creative experience, nourishing
your psyche, and a well fed psyche improves anyone's look ... no
matter what the shape!

29

3
Color

At No

"When

Cost!

may sound frivolous, but it

from appealing pale pinks to rosy,
healthy looking raspberry pinks, and sophisticated muted mauves,
cast a warm glow, adding radiance to your face, making you look and
works!

you're pooped, wear pink"

The

entire range of pinks,

feel lovelier.

Using color

in clothes

and makeup

to create special effects

is

being

fashion smart, for color creates mood, contour, composition and

contrast. Color costs nothing extra

and the

right color can

make

the

difference between success or failure, as color can jolt as well as

and knowing what to wear when and how is important.

budding sales executive, came to me angry and
frustrated. Her colorful, too-vivid appearance intimidated her supeior, a man unused to working with an attractive woman. On the
other hand, as a young actress, I once lost a part because I looked
too drab in the tailored grey suit I wore to the audition for the
character they were casting.
Colors set the mood, the theme for any performance. On stage,
color is carefully considered by directors. Many performers refuse to
wear certain shades, insisting on special colors in clothes, special
lighting and special backgrounds to compliment their natural coloring, their makeup and their body shapes.
When you set your own scene, the color in the clothes you are
tranquilize

30

good

friend, a

Color
wearing, the makeup you are using and the lighting in which you will
be seen, are integral parts of the overall fashion picture. Colors react
differently in varying lights, and in varying seasons. Daylight,
flourescents, incandescent lighting,
shine, winter,

summer,

muted evening

spring ...

fall,

all

lights, bright

have special lighting

sun-

effects

which you can orchestrate for the roles you choose to play.
Become aware of the chemistry of color and what it does for the
face and figure. Use color as the artist, the designer, to compliment,
conceal, protect, exploit, excite, stimulate, de-tense.

Combine

color

with color. Use one strong, intense color as a foundation and then

Use

accent with a contrasting or blending shade.

spicy color for cachet.
like

monochromatic

neutrals,

adding

Mute shades and shadows. Make Mondrian-

effects.

Play high color with high shine.

Work

color as a unit, a special effect, or as free wheeling contrast. Flash

color like a kaleidescope. Create the excitement of sharp, graphic
highlights.

Try bi-color or

tri-color dressing.

Or

just use the clean

bareness of one color.

However you use

it,

your

own

coloring and shape sketch the best

colors for you. Skin tones change

year.

Few

of us have the color

from season

we had

and year to
Even the color of

to season

at twenty.

eyes change subtly, becoming less bright as one matures. Hair colors

change, so do body shapes. Being aware of these changes increases

your

sensitivity to the colors that

times in your

do the most

for

you

at different

life.

Colors should compliment the face and body as well as each other.
Skin tones

fall

into three basic categories: light,

skinned people look better in

warm

people look better in cooler colors. There

skin tones

you

out, hold

more

is

such great variation

and textures that even these simple

many instances.
To more accurately determine
it

up

if

to your face. If

medium, dark. Light

and dark skinned

colors. Olive

rules

do not apply

in
in

the color compliments or washes

you have pale skin, soft tones are

The darker your complexion, the stronger the color

you have complexion problems, avoid vivid colors and
strong patterns. Keep colors soft, patterns small, and textures
smooth. Coordinate color with your natural coloring, with cosmetics, and the color of your hair. The more you experiment with color,
the sharper your instincts become. Soon you begin to recognize and

can

flattering.

be. If

use the colors best for you.

31

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

The

colors most basic for year round wear are:

BLACK, WHITE,

BROWN, BEIGE, BURGUNDY, MAHOGANY, GREY

NAVY
BLACK
ties.
It

and

BLUE.
is

and possesses beautiful fashion qualiand flatters the figure by diffusing bulk.

timelessly elegant

Black absorbs

light rays

from the face, especially past forty, accentuating

and wrinkles. Even though George Bernard Shaw gallantly

also drains color

lines

stated to an aging Eleanora

Duse

that her face "bore the credentials

HAVE LIVED"

by

Liven and lighten black with white, pastels or vivid colors

in

of her humanity" there

is

no need

to shout, "I

wearing black, unadorned, close to the

solids, prints

and

patterns.

Wear

face.

the sharp contrast of black with

white for a strong, dramatic look. Black as an accent on

white

is

smashing!

It is

summer

the most versatile color combination and

in any season, anywhere! Black with brown is

beware if you are sallow-skinned, or at-the-momentunder-the-weather. Dark-toned color combinations are drab unless
you have high color and good bones.

makes an impression

beautiful, but

WHITE

is

the kindest color in the fashion spectrum, lending a

shimmering quality to the face which softens the inevitable downstrokes of gravity. White reflects light rays and is cooler and more
comfortable in
look. It also

be

warm

fairly slender,

women.

climates, giving a crisp, clean freshness to the

rounds out body shapes.

To wear white overall, one need

but white worn as an accent

is

flattering to heavier

you are heavy-hipped, but smaller on top, wear loosefitting white blouses, shirts and jackets. If you are smaller in the hip,
but buxom on top, wear dark overblouses with white skirts or pants.
As you ripen (you don't age, merely ripen, and the trick is not to look
overripe) wear white as an accent close to the face: white shirts,
If

blouses, collars, scarves, jewelry.

White can be worn in any season. If white

think of being wrapped in ermine!

in winter

throws you

off,

BROWN offers many creative possibilities. Warm and subtle,

bines beautifully with lighter shades and with pastels.
excellent counterpoint for prints

it

Brown

comis

an

and bright colored accessories.

While black or brown are the easiest and most basic colors to accessorize, in coats they may not be the best, because shoe and handbag

32

Color
colors are limited.

Dusky tones of taupe,

wine, russet, blue, green and

soft, multi-color tweeds are better choices for coats, allowing

varied and

BEIGE and CAMEL TONES

as

warm and

are as versatile as black or white, and

subtle as brown.

marvelous canvas color on which

to splash others, beige tones can be

BURGUNDY and MAHOGANY

handbags and

belts

worn

in

any season.

are rich, interesting colors which

lend punch and contrast to clothes.

shoes,

more

interesting interplay of colors in accessories.

They

are excellent colors for

because they blend handsomely with other

colors.

GREY is as changeable as gray,

and

tones from morning to midnight.

unless accessorized deftly.

severe

when

the

NAVY BLUE

is

bloom

Grey

its

many variations afford muted

A cold color, grey can look dismal

close to the face, like black,

brighter and

more

flattering to the face

or grey, and kinder to the figure than white or beige. In

ble tones,

navy blue

is

is

too

off the rose.

is

its

than black

innumera-

a great basic color for savvy accessorizing.

For warmer, brighter

looks: try taupes, russets, plums, wines,

medium blues, and shaded

greens as basic colors.

Fun

to accessorize

and flattering to the face and figure, these richer shades broaden your
color image and offer a unique, unusual touch to an everyday wardrobe.

PARFAIT PASTELS
der, pale pinks

such as lime, orange, lemon, raspberry, laven-

and blues are

perfect (well almost). If

perfectly lovely, provided

you are a

dilettante dieter

it

you are

figure

might be best

to use these colors as light, carefree accents rather than

on the

full

shape.

CREAMY COLORS such as pink, mauve, beige, ivory and other

muted pastels kindle a youthful glow, creating a feminine, fragile
aura. Combining a pink, or pale aqua silk blouse with a grey or
tweedy, tailored suit

is

an adroit touch for business.

33

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

BRIGHT, VIBRANT COLORS such

as electric tones of red, orange,

and green are dynamic, strong, intense stateeffects, as is silver worn as pure shine and gold as

purple, yellow, blue

ments

for special

When

glitter.

supremely

buying electric colors, choose separates, because a

vivid, one-color outfit or a bi-color or tri-color dress

be easily outdated. Create your

own

can

kaleidescopes with solid color,

bi-color or tri-color by using separates

and layering with bold aban-

don.

My

adore red and wear

close friend

ligament tear
is

it

often to heighten

and fellow

when

active, vivacious

ski instructor

my

color and

Anne

my mood.

suffered a nasty

a student in her class barrelled into her.

and a super tennis player and the weeks

Anne

in a cast

must have been wearing. When I visited, shortly after her release
from the hospital, Anne was in a wheelchair wearing a bright red
velour robe, her feet in shaggy red slippers and her cast decorated
with greetings in red ink!

"Well Judith," she laughed, "you've always said, 'when you're

"
wear red!'
Not only does red perk up your spirits, according to tests it also
raises blood pressure and heart respiration rates. Grey on grey days
is depressing and yellow and greens are a bad choice if you've had
stomach trouble.
blue,

Combining colors with

tapped color talent for

prints

and patterns stimulates your un-

challenges you to create unique, unexpected

it

combinations. Highlight the colors in a print with accessories either

To

bring

an otherwise unchangeable pattern, either step

down

same

color,

in a

coordinating solid color, or a blending second pattern.

new

interest to

the color in the accessory by using a softer shade of the

or use a brighter tone to step

it

up.

For example: If you have a print dress containing black, brown,

and beige, you could choose a solid color silk scarf in cinnamon and
use gold jewelry. The next time around you might select a grey silk
square and silver as the jewelry accent, or you could combine another
pattern as the accent. If you choose a pattern, the
texture of that pattern

Combining
requires
stincts.

skill,

Work

prints

is

shape and

and patterns with other

prints

and patterns

a good eye for balance and harmony, and good inwith solid colors first to strengthen your expertise and

then experiment, keeping in mind that

34

size,

as important as the colors.

it is

best to blend

and contrast

Color
prints

and patterns

in the

same tonal

values. If

you are using dark

tones, then the accent print should be slightly lighter or slightly

darker. If you are using a vivid color pattern, the accent pattern

should be comparably bright.

To

sharply contrast both pattern and tone

Rustler at Alta.

You have

is

to be very sure of

like skiing the

your

While the use of contemporary color bypasses old

restrictions

transcends seasons, certain colors wear better in certain

is

High

skills.

cities.

and

Black

very fashionable in Latin countries and sophisticated northern

cities,

other

but

less

popular in Southern California, Hawaii, Florida and

warm climates where bright, sunny shades seem more at home.

Consider climate, ambience and purpose when choosing a personal palette; but feel free to experiment with

options open to you.

What works best

for

you

is

all

the lovely color

yours to enjoy! Your

and sensitivity for color, the mixing, matching, blending,

and coordinating of it will sharpen the more you work with it. Color
is the one commodity in fashion that costs nothing, so wrap yourself
instincts

in radiance!

35

4
Classics

As Time Resistant
As Chopin

you want more from clothes, choose CLASSICS! If ease, versaeconomy and creativity are important to you, choose CLASSICS! Classics work, and they work simply because they offer a
variety of options. When deftly accessorized, classics swing from
trend to trend. They look chic and in step with style. Trendy things
are fun, but following a trend too slavishly can trip you up. While
today almost anything goes, do you feel attractive and comfortable in
anything? No matter how much "in" a trend may be, if it is wrong
If

tility,

for you,

it

should be "out.

CLASSICS

assure you of versatility and value. Styles may change

from one extreme to another, but CLASSICS provide a firm base on
which to build a creative, always-on-the-ready wardrobe. With
CLASSICS you are in control, for with a quick flip of a scarf,
separates, a belt, jewelry and imagination, you can step into any hour
of the day with style and eclat.
Fabric and color determines whether classics are casual, work-aday or dressy. Buy the best fabrics you can afford for a wise fashion

investment. Classic necklines are either jewel-type or V-shaped. Jewel-type necklines are the easiest to accessorize, their

name

signifying

superb compatability with jewelry as well as with scarves, collars and

other accents which frame the face lending softness, shape and color.

V-shaped necklines are

slenderize.

36

versatile

and more

flattering

because they

Sketch 3

37

/ Haven V a Thing To Wear

CLASSIC STYLE DRESSES

(sketch 3)

A-Line
Bias cut

Princess

Eased sheath
Sheath
Shirtwaist

CLASSIC STYLE SUITS

Box

AND SEPARATES

(sketch 4)

jacket, slim skirt

Blazer jacket, dirndl skirt

Fitted jacket, A-line skirt

Short jacket, pegged skirt

Silk shirt

Pant

worn

as belted jacket with skirt

suit, straight leg

trousers

Alternate jackets with skirts

and

dresses for a multitude

tions.

CLASSIC STYLE COATS

(sketch 5)

Polo coat

Trench coat
Single-breasted coat with notched collar

Double-breasted coat with notched collar

38

of varia-

Classics

Princess coat with Peter

Pan

collar, full skirt

Collarless sweater coat

A very good classic coat makes you ready for any social encounter
for

it

can be accessorized to look either casual or dressy.

only one coat, choose a style which

fits

you buy

easily over suits. In cold,

blustery climates, a coat with a large collar

CLASSIC STYLE EVENING

If

WEAR

is

more

functional.

(sketch 6)

Chiffon, Grecian style

One-shoulder sheath
Satin A-line with spaghetti straps

Silk shirt

and

full skirt

and bias cut

skirt

separates

Classics in evening wear?

By

all

means! Simple, elegant

lines in

beautiful fabrics are timeless.

CLASSIC STYLE TROUSERS

(sketch 7)

Side zipped pants, straight leg, no cuff

Fly-front pants, wider leg with cuff

Wider evening pants

Jeans

Comfortable, efficient and handsome, pants play an important

role in the active person's

wardrobe.

As

with other classics, fabric

and color determine how and where pants fit into your life-style.
Velvet or satin jeans offer a different dimension than denim. Finely
tailored tweed trousers are terrific topside on the QE 2. Lissomely cut
lame 'evening pants are perfect for dinner by candlelight.

39

Sketch 4

40

Sketch 4

41

Sketch 5

42

Sketch 5

43

Sketch 6

44

Sketch 6

45

Sketch

46

Classics

BUILDING A CLASSIC COLLECTION

you have only unrelated, non-versatile, one-shot clothes in your
wardrobe of classics will require spending money,
run,
it is less costly, because classics enable you to
but in the long
coordinate and combine clothes more readily for social and business
If

closets, building a

needs.

you are a working woman on a tight budget, separates are your

A winter and summer wardrobe will be needed even if you
in the sun belt, because in business it is necessary to wear clothes

If

best buy.
live

suitable for the season.

The following

outlines

an

essential classic

wardrobe. Translate the

choice of fabrics and colors. Choosing

ideas for winter or

summer by

transitional fabrics

and colors enables you to wear some clothes year

round. (See sketches 8 through 13)

These
time.

essential classics

Buy

do not have

out-of-season-sales.

Add as you earn money.

or student, you need

same
you can wait for

to be purchased all at the

conservatively. Since they are classic

If you are a

homemaker

less.

Women at home and at school dress more casually. They can easily
by with two skirts, two blouses, two sweaters and two short
However, they need extra pants such as jeans.
To extend this wardrobe for summer, add classics in white or
beige. Perhaps a white blazer, wrap skirt or trousers, a short
voile dress in a summer print, or a strapless summer cotton which
can double for evening when worn with a shawl. Two-piece
cotton knits are wonderfully versatile and comfortable, affording
numerous variations. Coordinate summer classics with the winter
wardrobe using the blouses, shirts, sweaters, skirts and pants. If you
get

dresses.

cannot afford a summer coat, consider a taffeta or nylon raincoat

a bright color,

when purchasing one of

the

two

classic

in

coats

suggested.

As

a young

clothes, yet

woman raising two sons, I could not afford expensive

needed to look well dressed in my job. I would add a

good quality accessory to a simple dress or suit and the entire look
was upgraded. I saved money on silk scarves by buying silk remnants
in fabric stores and making my own. I browsed second hand stores
for jewelry and other items. I scoured accessory departments during
sales at fine shops such as Bergdorf s, BendePs, Altman's and Sak's.

47

Sketch 8

Three short dresses of the softly structured type that can be worn
1
from desk to dark. For example: a printed challis with a softly flared
skirt; a solid color sheer wool sheath to be worn with a blazer and silk
scarf; a free-flowing silk shirtwaist in a small print that is elegant and
dressy, yet

48

subdued enough for the

office.

Sketch 9

Three

skirts:

two

skirts either straight cut, bias cut or dirndl for

daytime wear; one softly

flared, full length skirt for evening.

49

Sketch 10

Two jackets of good-quality fabric and tailoring.

Perhaps one

velveteen blazer and one wool tweed. Lightweight wool can be

worn

you purchase a tweed suit with either a skirt or pants, or

both, plus the velveteen blazer, you can wear the tweed jacket over
winter skirts and the blazer for evening, both winter and summer.
4
Three sweaters: V-neck, turtleneck, cowl or crew neck.

year round.

50

If

Sketch 11

Three blouses: two softly tailored blouses, one of which could be

tunic style.

Choose

or V-shaped.

Two

One

different necklines:

bowed, drawstring, jewel-type

filmy blouse for evening.

shirts: trim, tailored, classic

type shirts, solid color and

patterned.
7

One

or two third layer accents such as a vest, jerkin, open,

collarless jacket or cardigan sweater.

51

Sketch 12

Three pair pants:

one wool to match jacket; another to accent

worn day or

jackets, a dressy pair for evening. Velveteen pants can be

evening.

52

Sketch 13

Two coats:

preferably one trench coat or polo coat in an

weather fabric, plus a solid color, cloth coat. Each

is

all-

suitable for

casual daytimes or dressy evenings.

53

"I Haven't a Thing

My

particular ploy

suit or dress

was

to

wear an expensive

hat,

To Wear!"

which made

my

look top notch.

Wearing quality touches close to the face focuses one's attention

on your eyes and your personality. What you wear elsewhere
becomes unimportant. Attractive accents near the face soften, add
color and emphasize expressions.
Add elegance to an inexpensive blouse with a silk scarf; make a
bargain dress look better with a simple piece of gold jewelry; ca-

mouflage a run-of-the-mill skirt with a well tailored jacket, and add

elan to a low-cost coat with a smashing hat!

CLASSIC COLLECTIBLES
Accessories add variation and a personal touch to classics. These
are discussed in detail in the chapters which follow, but listed here-

with are suggestions on

how

to begin collecting classic essentials:

and hosiery. Brief mention is

and makeup which are an integral part of a

scarves, belts, handbags, hats, shoes

also given to hairdos,

coordinated look.

BELTS:

Ranging from simple ropes to leathers and metals which

can cost hundreds of dollars, belts add proportion and interest to

clothes.

You can

save

money by making your own. Browse

antique

shops, garage sales and thrift shops for unusual and unique buckles.

With an awl or hole punch,

riveting tool

and glue purchased

in crafts

supply shops, add leather, fabric or metal lengths to create your

belt designs. If this

local shoe repair

is

own

inconvenient, take the length and buckle to the

shop and they

will stitch

it

for

you

at a reasonable

cost.

Begin a belt wardrobe with:

simple, small buckled leather belt 3

saddle,

mahogany or cordovan. These

to

one inch wide

in

colors blend best with most

clothes.

A narrow chain or metallic

most
A one inch white leather

metallic knits are

3

belt for dress wear.

belt for

rope

Gold and

silver

versatile.

summer.

Purchase it in the drapery department or trimming shop rather than in the belt section. It is less expensive and you

54

silk

belt.

__

Classics

have a better choice of colors. Black is most

burgundy or bronze are other good choices.

versatile.

Gunmetal,

Those who are long-waisted, or lean and long, wear wider belts
soft leather wraps in luscious colors which
add new dimensions to dresses and pants.
handsomely, especially

HANDBAGS:

Handbags are shoes no longer need be matched. Still

it is not necessary. Handbags are more transitional

a handsome look,

now and can be blended

leathers

The

and

with footwear for greater variation. Canvas,

fabrics are fashionable year round.

essential classics are:

Leather shoulder bag.

2 Leather pouch or
Fabric or beaded evening bag.
1

clutch.

SHOES:

While few

women limit themselves to a simple shoe wardmay make it necessary to buy

robe, the soaring cost of leather shoes

less.

The following

assures that

you

Medium heeled leather pumps

you wear mainly tweeds and

than smooth calfskin.

A
Closed

will

be well shod:

to blend with skirts

and pants.

If

textures, choose grainy leather rather

pair of leather boots with a

medium

heel in a color

which

blends best with your suits and coat.

3

toe, sling

back shoes

suede or suede with a leather

in

accent for desk to dark dresses.

4

Open

toed, high heeled sandals for dressy

daytime and evening

needs.
5

Rainboots

to protect shoes

and

feet in

sloppy weather.

HOSIER Y:

Colors and textures in hosiery look best when they

complement hemlines. For light colored chiffons, choose sheer hose

in a natural shade.

Textured, patterned hose

nubby tweeds. Too dark a color with a

is

interesting with

light outfit, or too light a tone

with a dark ensemble jars the eye, focusing attention on the legs and
disturbing the

line.

If legs are pale, select slightly darker shades.

Tights and colorful patterns are fun

clothes,

and are functional

when coordinated with

sports

in cold weather.

55

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

HA TS:

am and

always have been committed to hats, therefore

write this with cheerful bias. Hats are the ultimate accent!

They turn

and a coat into a

an entire chapter devoted to hats in this book but
should have the following classics in her closet:

a dress into an ensemble; a suit into a statement

presence. There

every

woman

is

1 A small brimmed, medium crowned felt fedora in a color to blend

with suits and coat, or a beret
2

A warm winter hat

days almost

65%

in

if

under

thirty-five.

wool; knitted wool; fur or fur

of body heat

is

lost

winter hat not only adds chic to winter clothes,

3 A medium or wide brimmed

felt.

On

cold

through the head. Wearing a

it

keeps you healthy!

summer

hat to protect

the face

from hot summer sun and add importance and

style to casual

summer

clothes.

No

SCARVES:

natural straw

wardrobe or accessory collection is comis an extensively detailed "how-to"

scarf chapter later on, the mention here is brief. If you do not wear
scarves, begin now, because scarves more than any other accessory
add diversity and distinction. Economical, no matter what their cost,
scarves seldom wear out and are always in style.
classic

plete without scarves. Since there

Begin your collection with:

1
a 30" or 36" silk square in colors and patterns to blend or

2 an oblong
scarf
colors and patterns
blend with your
a 24" square, either blending or contrasting.

contrast with your wardrobe.

silk

to

in

classic collection.

A 48"

silk

or larger shawl in challis, or sheer wool.

If you find it difficult to purchase 36" or larger squares make your

own! You will save substantially by buying silk or sheer wool fabric

and hand

rolling the edges.

far less costly

on the lookout for

You may

One yard

than a manufactured

rectangular scarf.

JEWELRY:

56

is

silk

or sheer wool

Whenever you

travel,

is

be

and wools in different textures and weights.

remnant from which to make a square or
Handrolling edges is a pleasant sewing task and is
silks

find a perfect

ideal for evenings in front of

which

square of

scarf.

TV

While diamonds are

girl's best friend.

or long, boring plane

desirable, in fashion

trips.

it

is

GOLD

few, well chosen gold pieces upgrade

Classics

an

outfit pointing to a well

turned out, polished woman. Gold blends

beautifully with casual daytime clothes or after dark ensembles.

Gold has more fashion

status than silver

and can be combined hand-

pearls, jade, other precious stones,

somely with

Venetian or antique

glass beads.

Pearls are an important classic addition to any collection.

look lovely because pearls reflect

ters face

and

light, creating

flat-

throat.

The classic jewelry essentials are:

Gold hoop or button earrings.
Gold chains in varying lengths and

A
A
A

They

an aura which

weights.

gold pin or stick pin, plain or set with precious stones.

gold ring set with precious stones.
small gold watch

One

or two pearl necklaces in varying lengths.

Pearl earrings.

THE FINISHING TOUCH

any wardrobe whether it be clascustom-made or ready-to-wear

is YOU .... your hair, makeup, hands, perfume and how they
coordinate and complement the ensemble. Unkempt, straggly, outof-date hairstyles destroy the effect. If your hair is unattractive and
unmanageable like mine, wear a wig or a hat. If you are one of the
lucky people whose hair can be arranged in a number of different
styles, coordinate the styling with what you are wearing.
Makeup should blend in color and texture with the outfit. Heavy
eye shadow and exotic cheeks are out of place in an office or sailing
Nantucket Bay, nor would you want to look washed out and au
naturel when dining by candlelight.
Highlight lovely hands and nails with colorful nail polish, rings,
bracelets and other accents at the wrist such as ruffles, boa or trimming. If hands have aged (arthritis, liver spots, etc.) downplay them.
Cash in rings and bracelets and wear polish in muted subtle tones.
sic, eclectic,

for

conservative, outrageous,

PERFUME:

The epilogue

to

any ensemble, perfume

individual choice, there can be few hard and fast rules.

is

such an

Not using

perfume is neglecting a most indelible accent which evokes sensuality

in the wearer and those around her. Many women are noted as much
for their scent as their style.
It is

not an absolute that one change perfume with a change of

57

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

dress.

Some change perfume when they change climates, others when

city. At home in the mountains in spring

they go from country to

and summer,

wear

little

perfume because the bees believe

am

blossom.

Perfumed bath
tive

oil,

especially in

than perfume. Use

of bath

oil

into a vial

it

warm climates, can be more effec-

subtly, full strength.

and carry

it

with you.

Pour a small amount

drop or two behind

the ears, at the base of the throat and at the wrists absorb into the
skin creating a luxuriously fragrant aura. Bath oil

is less

expensive

than perfume and more lasting than cologne. Finding the fragrance
that suits you best is a delightful shopping experience.
perfume people to provide so many testers!

How

kind of

CLASSICS initiate an approach to fashion that not only takes you

many needs of your days and nights, but enables you to
cope with continuing style changes. To make CLASSICS superthrough the

attractive

and

and individual requires an imaginative use of coordination

which is discussed at
the following section dealing with our fifth concept.

extra-interest accessory ornamentation,

length in

COORDINATION.

58

5
Coordination

The Talented Touch

Coordination
is

is

the fun part of fashion, and putting

it all

together

the fullest expression of your creative instinct. Considering clothes

in the

way we

sonalities, the

on which to imprint new perwhich you coordinate colors, shapes and

discuss, as canvases

manner

in

accessories are the finishing strokes, the talented touch.

You are the sum total of many moods, interests and imagination
and the way you wear clothes highlights your dramatic ability to be
whatever you want to be. At one time coordinating clothes was
structured, sterile, with rigid rules for what was "proper". Many
remember white gloves, pillbox hat and pearls with basic black.
While it is easier to follow blueprints of what to wear when and how,
it is more creative and relaxing to allow our tastes free rein, to
experiment with new ideas!
Before

we

sories, let us

without.

explore ways in which to build individuality with acces-

recognize the essentials, those necessities

They

are underwear, lingerie

and

we cannot do

hosiery.

THE NECESSITIES
The terms, "underwear" and
underneath

it

all,

"lingerie" are not redundant because

they express different concepts.

work-a-day; bras, panties, foundations and

slips.

Underwear

is

Lingerie represents

59

"I Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

is worn on top.
Wearing cotton panties under jogging shorts and a cotton sports bra
makes one feel totally different than when wearing lace trimmed
satin briefs and bandeau. The latter is lingerie; the former, under-

the luxurious options that lend sensuality to whatever

wear.

Some women spend very little on lingerie, thinking that

why buy expensive, fancy underclothes.

since

it

cannot be seen,

Feeling lovely

all

over

reflected in attitudes

is

is

important to the

final look, for this feeling

and the expression of femininity. Even those

on spartan budgets ought to indulge occasionally in exquisite lingerie, or at least trim what they have with lace and satin. Lace trimmings and satin ribbons by the yard are still one of the best buys in
stores. Panties, bras, slips, camisoles can be trimmed by hand as one
watches television, or whenever there is free time. Rather than buy
tennis panties in sports shops, buy terry or cotton briefs in bargain
basements and trim them yourself to save money.
Lovely lingerie can be collected by shopping sales, or by using
Christmas gift certificates after the holidays. If you let friends and
family know that the gift you enjoy most is lingerie, the lushest,
laciest, least practical possible, you will soon have enviable ensembles.

Lingerie departments have

become fashion

sections with attractive

multiple displays of color coordinated brassieres, panties, slips

camisoles for you to peruse.

No

longer tucked

behind counters, lingerie merchandising

dom

now

away

and

in glass cases or

affords you the free-

of self-selection and browsing.

The type of lingerie you choose can be limited by your size. Larger

women

and panties as well as

and control top panty hose. Slimmer women can
fantasies in a wider range of bras, and panties in more

require non-transparent brassieres

figure control briefs

indulge their

lightweight fabrics.

Some fashions, especially those for summer, can be so lightweight

and sheer that underclothes are as much an accessory as a necessity,
and should be selected to coordinate with what is worn on top.
Your first instinct might be to choose white underpants when
wearing white slacks, but the right choice is a tone closest to your
own skin such as the natural, nude shades. Beige-toned lingerie is the
most practical because it blends with your skin. With all the lovely
lace and satin trimmed camisoles available, there is no need for a
brassiere to show through when wearing a sheer or lightweight
blouse. There is nothing glamorous about a see-through blouse and

60

Coordination
brassiere.

Camisoles offer a more provocative feminine touch, espeblouse is worn open as a third layer with a lacy, ribbon-

cially if the

trimmed camisole peeking through.

Pantyhose and panty combinations which

offer

an unbroken

line

are preferable to bikini or other panty lines showing through tight

and skirts.
and camisoles are not only necessary liners for
sheer or clinging fabrics, they are accessory coordinates which add
color and interest to their outer layers.
A woman at the Broadmoor in Colorado Springs one balmy June
evening caught my attention. She wore a sheer, silk organza dress in
soft silver grey. Underneath, a slip of pink and grey silk showed
through the plunging bodice. The cocktail party was crowded and
as we converged on the buffet, I complimented the woman on the
dress. She recognized me from my show that morning and confided:
"This dress is one of those collectibles you talked about. When I
first bought it years ago, it had three layers of turquoise taffeta slips
which made the skirt very full. I tired of that, and needed a slimmer
line, because I've gained some weight. I bought the pink and grey silk
print and made the slip and camisole, which incidentally I can wear
alone, if I want a lean, bare look."
fitting trousers

Slips, half-slips

The creative possibilities with lingerie are unlimited. Many of the

new coordinated ensembles can be worn as loungewear or for athome-entertaining. Others, more lush, can be worn out for evening
and dance wear, especially when accessorized with feather boas,
third layer silk blouses,

As with most

and exotic jackets

in sheer or fancy fabrics.

other fashions, you are completely free to choose

what looks best on your

personality and lifestyle.

figure

and what works

best with your

Unless you are a tiny A-cup or the smallest of B's, a good fitting
is your most essential undergarment. Many young women

brassiere

growing up

in the sixties

and seventies opted

expression of new found freedom.

Many

to

of these

go bra-less as an

women, depending

on the

size

and weight of

turely.

Our

breasts are muscleless, fibrous skin tissue

have begun to sag premawhich is unattached to the muscle layer of our body and stretches easily. Withtheir breasts,

out support, breasts give in to gravity.

Not wearing
life.

If the

women

a brassiere sets a

woman

is

woman up

involved in sports the

for a downfall later in

damage

is

greater!

More

are physically active than ever, enjoying a wide range of

61

'I

activities that

may

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

slim and tighten thighs, hips, waist and buttocks

but play havoc with breasts. If you participate in sports regularly,

wear a specially designed sports bra. They are comfortable and practical and a wide variety of choices are available with new designs and
improved products being constantly introduced.
Your shape, rather than your age, determines how you look braless
in clothes. There are young women whose breasts are not fit, and
mature women who can still pass the pencil test. Generally it is safest
if you limit going bra-less to particular clothes such as: halter tops,
strapless and sun-dresses, bathing suits and other sports clothes which
have

built-in

bra tops.

you know exactly which brassiere style you prefer and you
have purchased it time and time again, it is best to try a new brassiere
on for fit, each time you shop. Designs change constantly, but more
to the point, so do you! Changes occur in your breasts due to menses,
childbirth, oral contraceptives, weight loss, (or gain), and hormonal
increases and decreases.
Buying the right size brassiere for your figure assures a smooth
look. How well I remember the first time I was fitted for a brassiere!
I was a teenager and painfully shy. I hugged my blouse to me, until
the salesclerk insisted I drop it. I was so surprised when she measured the area under my bust I lost my inhibition about standing
there topless. Before going to the store I had measured myself at
home, placing the tape around my body, directly over the nipples.
"Aren't you going to measure my bust?" I asked.
"Of course," she laughed, "this is all part of it. I do this first to
determine your body size. I measure the ribcage and then add five
inches to find out what size you should wear."
"What am I?" I asked, curious. I had never measured anything
other than my waist, bust and hips before.
"Thirty inches, that means you would wear a size 36."
"I thought you said, five inches."
"I did," she replied, "but if you fall in between, we go up to the
next larger size so that the band won't be too tight."
She then measured across the nipples of my breasts to determine
my cup size. If this measurement is one inch more than the ribcage
measurement you wear an A-cup; two inches more, B; three inches,
C; four, D.
I have been grateful to her all these years for her teachings. I

Even

if

remeasure myself occasionally since

my

weight fluctuates.

measuring, the tape should be snug, but not

62

tight.

When

Coordination
I

took

my mother

shopping after she had recovered from an

new

Since she had lost weight she needed

illness.

particularly a

good

never learned

how

was amazed

underclothes, and

had
on a brassiere properly. Mother has a large

brassiere.

to put

bosom and she attempted

to discover that she

to squeeze her breasts into the cups, while

standing straight.

The proper way

to put

shoulders so that they

on a brassiere

sit

to slip the straps over

little

your

hollow. Then, bend

holding the sides of the brassiere up so that you ease your

over,

breasts fully into the cups. Straighten

fabric,
is

is

squarely in the

hook

it

Make

in back.

up and

still

holding onto the

sure the band of the bra

sits

low and

not raised high across your back. Adjust the straps so that the cups

are smooth.

Do

you a better

uplift. If

well,

not attempt to wear the straps super short to give

the brassiere

is

your proper

be totally comfortable, and you should

size,

move

it

should

easily with

fit

it.

TO TEST FOR PROPER FIT

a) Slide
is

your finger under the band.

correct. If the

b)

Drop one

band

If you

can do so

curls or cuts, the bra

strap. If

you sag badly, the

is

easily the size

too tight.

style or size is

wrong

for

you.

back rides up you lose support.

mean the bra is too big; it can also mean the cup
is too small If too small, the breasts will be pushed against the body
and not fill out the cups. If you overflow the cup, the design or the
c) If the

d) Wrinkled cups

size
e)

is

not for you.

Bulges and gapping indicate incorrect size and

style.

A wardrobe of brassieres is needed to complement different kinds

of clothes one wears; brassieres in colors to coordinate with ensembles

and brassieres of different designs and fabrics to suit specific

For example: sports bras for active needs; bras with good lift

clothes.

and support for clothes that cling; a bra with natural, unseamed cups
and smooth, non-adjustable straps (no buckles) to wear under sweaters, clinging tops and lightweight fabrics. For dressy occasions an
underwire strapless bra; a convertible for backless, strapless and
halter tops; a plunge bra for deeply cut V-necklines and lacy bras to
wear under sheers.
The fabrics available in brassieres are as wide ranging as the

63

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

designs. In addition to Lycras

and Helencas made of spandex, and

nylons such as Qiana, Antron, Antron

now have

III,

knitted tricots, laces,

we

brassieres in luxury fabrics such as silk, chiffon, char-

meuse, satin and crepe de Chine. For the lady that

likes to

be well

dressed underneath there are unlimited choices.

word

to those

who

still

insist

on wearing "foundation gar-

ments." While there are wispy, sexy one piece spandex undergar-

ments and lightweight

body, wearing

briefs

tight-fitting,

which give a

soft,

natural control to the

structured foundations makes a

look ungiving, unnatural and unattractive. If one

is

woman

large or certain

parts of the body flabby, it is better to wear softly flowing separates

and dresses in a size that does not bind rather than to encase oneself in
a corset and figure revealing clothes. It is not only more comfortable
to wear loose fitting designs that give the body graceful movement,
it looks more natural. Figure concealing third layers such as long
open tunics make one look slimmer than figure restricting foundations.
Try control-top panty hose or spandex briefs as alternatives to
foundation garments, and if you are really motivated, diet and exercise do wonders!

HOSIERY
tights, socks and knee-hi's flucand design as do other ready-to-wear. Pantyhose
in all its variations, its weights, textures and sizes have freed women
from foundation garments and garter belts. While garter belts and
stockings are sexy, the freedom and ease of panty hose are enjoyed

Fashions in stockings, panty hose,

tuate with the times

by most.

Mature women with

problems such as varicose veins or other

and camouflage in support panty hose in
varying weights. Younger women bouncing through busy days ease
tired legs in sheerer support hose. Larger women whose stomachs are
less than flat and whose rears bounce, will find control-top panty
leg

discolorations find comfort

hose a comfortable

way

to look trimmer. All-in-one,

and hose combinations erase

pants and skirts.

lines,

unseamed panty

keeping one's look smooth in tight

Coordinate hosiery with outer garments and with skin tones just as
you coordinate other accessories, keeping in mind: color, texture and
purpose.

Hosiery

64

in slightly

darker tones looks better with brown, black or

Coordination
navy blue.

When wearing beiges,

light greys, reds,

medium-blues and

lighter shades, hosiery in slightly darker than natural skin tones

look prettier in

best. Pale legs

warm

is

tan shades. Excessive contrast

such as dark hose with light colors; or light hose with dark shades
is

unsettling,

and not an elegant look.

It

can be very

effective,

however,

when one wants an outrageous appearance such as at Halloween.

Textured hose and tights in blending or contrasting colors perk up
winter wear and keep you warm and toasty. The young can add
colorful patterned knee socks for layered looks with winter sports

Combine

clothes.

and shoes. Heavier

nubby wools, walkother filmy fabrics and

hosiery weights with fabrics

weights and textures look splendid with tweeds,

Wear

ing shoes or boots.

sheers with chiffons,

Avoid reinforced backs or

sandals.

toes with bareback or open-toed

shoes.

Since saving
students

who

money is important, this idea passed on to me by

work as waitresses might be of interest to you.

also

These young women cut the ripped legs off pantyhose and combine
unripped legs and panties. It means wearing two pairs of panties, but
the girls do not mind when they save such substantial amounts. And
for those who have maverick toes which constantly rip sheer sandal
feet, why not mend the ripped toes and wear the mended hose with
closed-toe shoes

As

and boots?

write, hosiery with clockings,

style. If

you have

beading and sequins

is

back

in

exquisite sheer hose that have ripped, try gluing

sequins onto the rip with Sebo glue.

It will

look like a sparkling clock-

and you can wear them out dancing! You can also mend hosiery
with embroidery floss and fancy stitches. Try a chain or feather stitch
in a colorful thread. You will be right in style and will have saved
money!
ing

CONVERSA TION PIECES

Accessories are the alternative to looking like everyone else in a

way you combine and coordinate coland accents bespeaks your sense of style and how you
about yourself. A good accessory is one of a kind, special, memo-

ready-to-wear world, and the

ors, textures
feel

rable.

Accessories are only as important as the total look, and that

your aim, a

finished, polished

individuality

and

is

appearance that underscores your

identity.

65

"I Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

an adroit blending of
and proportion. To develop an eye
how to coordinate for the clothes you wear, your

As with any other

art, accessorizing requires

balance, harmony, composition

and

sensitivity in

figure, face

and the occasion, scan fashion magazines, people-watch,

on new ideas in stores whenever

attend store fashion shows, and try

you browse or shop.

Do not be timid about trying new ideas with clothes and coordination. All that can happen is that you will make a mistake. So what?
Mistakes are no more than a learning process. One person's mistake
can be another's good fortune. A well known designer years back
it bombed because no one knew
wear it. I experimented and found that it was lovely when
I brought the smoke ring through the brassiere strap, up and over
the neckline to lay as a silky puff on the shoulder of the dress. It gave
me many other ideas for ways to wear smoke rings (see scarf chapter)
and they are still an important addition to my show, amusing audiences to this day. Her mistake was a definite plus for me.
If in doubt, do not overdo. For example, if you wear a scarf,
earrings and a hat, downplay further accents; a small belt in a color
and texture that blends with the dress is alright, but a contrasting
leather wrap at the waist is too much.
Accessories can contrast or coordinate, and should complement
each other in color, theme, texture, as well as what you are wearing,
the image you wish to project, and the occasion. An attractive accessory makes all the difference in the world to an outfit. Gold chains
or other jewelry dress up a daytime basic for evening. A scarf adds
softness and drape to a simple blouse. A belt creates new proportions
and shape to a sheath. Honey toned leather boots, shoulder pouch
and a smashing Stetson add elegance and dash to faded denim. A
mink or lambskin vest upgrades and updates an old jumpsuit. Sometimes one strong hit of color is a special effect accessory.

brought out the smoke ring scarf and

how

to

Boring one-dimensional clothes become conversation pieces with

accessories. Following are suggestions to sharpen

and stimulate your

accessorizing wit.

JEWELRY
Misplacing jewelry on clothes offers opportunities for unconven-

Try jewelry in non-traditional places such as: on the

backline of a dress; at the waist; on a pocket, shoulder, collar;

tional dressing.

66

Coordination

Gold chain necklaces can be

wrapped around wrists and ankles and worn as bracelets, (sketch 14)
At a recent show at the Contemporary Resort Hotel in Orlando
for the women attending the Heavy Specialized Carrier's Conference, I admired an unusual necklace worn by a woman in the audience. The necklace, which was wrapped several times around her
neck, extended to the waist. It was a series of taupe colored, rolled
satin ribbons accented with a large and beautiful pearl-like shell.
Shirley explained that it was a belt she tired of wearing and much
assymetrically rather than centered.

preferred as a necklace.

Jewelry takes on

new dimensions when

it

underscores and accents

other accessories such as scarves, hats, sashes and handbags.

I had
and they closed soon after because
they became infected. I had purchased two pair of gold earrings and
was dismayed when I could no longer wear them. Playing around
one day, trying to find another use for them I discovered one pair
made beautiful studs to pierce through my scarves; the other longer
pair, in an antique Florentine design set with garnets, looked great set
onto the rolled up sleeves of a coffee colored silk shirt. It held them in
place and made an interesting new accent!

my

ears pierced a few years ago,

Combine gold chains with silver; pearls with other necklaces.

Blend chains and necklaces with pins. If you plan a busy day at the
office to be followed by dinner and theatre, without a chance to
change, wear dressy, precious jewelry inside your dress during the
day. Carrying fine jewelry in your purse or hiding it in your desk is
risky.

Whenever you

your clothes.

travel

When you

keep precious jewelry on you or inside

leave a theatre, restaurant or club late at

your dress, obscure bracelets up your

and turn rings so that precious stones are hidden in your
am not a nervous Nellie, only realistic about what the prob-

night, put necklaces inside

sleeves

hand.

lems

are.

A woman's taste in jewelry is so individual, no one can suggest

what is suitable for any one person. For some women, jewelry
becomes a trademark and they wear one or two identifying pieces
constantly. Others see jewelry as an investment and are avid collectors, but wear little, keeping precious pieces in a vault. Still others
delight in wearing the latest trends in non-valuable costume pieces,
changing their collections as the styles change. Some

wear jewelry

at

women

never

all.

Design changes

in jewelry

occur as frequently as

in

other fashions

and one can out-date up-to-date ensembles by wearing

styles in

67

Sketch 14

68

Coordination
jewelry that are

passe'.

Costume jewelry tends to become dated.

it, or you wish to stash costume

Unless you are very clever at redoing

pieces

away

at flea

markets or give

hand,

if

remade

in

hopes that
it

styles will

change,

it

might be best to

sell it

away and take a tax deduction. On the other

you collect precious jewelry

contemporary designs.

it

pays to have fine pieces

into

As in clothes,

proportions in jewelry as they relate to your face and

Round, chunky chokers, pins and earand bracelets call attention to

pudgy hands and wrists; tiny pins scattered about do not compliment
the image of a big-boned person. If one is large and round, matinee
and long length necklaces, and drop earrings, elongate. Jewelry coordinated with one's size, the textures and shapes one is wearing will
create a mood, an ambience that adds extra depth to the ensemble.
At the Las Vegas Hilton last year, I noticed a young woman
amongst many bikini-clad beauties. Her suit was no more than two
black slashes on a bronze body. What made her stand out from the
others who were equally as beautiful was a snake bracelet in heavy,
brushed gold which entwined her upper arm almost to the shoulder.
Ordinarily that bracelet would have been suitable only with the most
starkly exotic evening dress, but it was enormously effective on her
in this instance, because it was Las Vegas and she not only played
figure are to be considered.

rings accentuate

it

round

faces; rings

against the lean simplicity of her barely clad body, she stalked the

if it were her own private Garden of Eden.

Another memory emerges which is not quite as pleasant. At one of
my shows in Chicago, a lady approached wearing a print dress, a

pool as

was only noon),

three strand necklace of garishly colored stones

(it

matching earrings and an armful of bracelets

in different colors!

Baubles, bangles and beads; so lovely in song, but so dreadful

on
matched sets.
Forage through your jewelry collection to discover new uses for
precious and costume pieces. For example: bracelets can be worn as
.

especially in

buckles for scarf belts; rings become scarf holders; pins replace missing buttons; gold cufflinks can be
versa, or a single earring left

made

from a

pair

into

new

earrings, or vice

becomes a

lovely pendant.

Recycling jewelry you are tired of, or have not used in years,
offering

many

is

fun,

creative possibilities.

Jewelry should not overpower you or your look. For daytime,

jewelry

is

best

when

it is

simple and understated. Nothing

distracting in an office than jangling bracelets

with rings. After

five,

and

is

more

fingers flashing

indulge whatever jewelry fantasies you have.

69

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

Pearls add an incredibly lovely luster to bare skin,

in

nothing but a strand or two

and making love

a real turn on!

is

SHOES
Comfort comes

No

flatter.
if

the shoe
If

your

matter
fits

first

when

how

stylish,

it

comes

to shoes!

They must

unique or daring the design

poorly, pinches, slips, or gaps, forget

feet are less

may

be,

it.

than lovely, simple, understated shoes

Wide

then

fit,

call less

and two-tone shoes do

not flatter heavy legs and wide feet. T-straps, sling-back sandals, and
pumps with a V-vamp are more slimming and better choices. While
straps of most types look lovely on slender feet, if your feet are long
and narrow, avoid high T and V-cuts. Square, round and off-center
lines are more complimentary to elongated feet.
Select shoes with utmost care, choosing heels that are well shaped
and suitable for your needs. We have come full circle with stiletto
heels and narrow toes once again high style. How sad for aching feet!
If you insist on wearing these high heeled monsters to the office, keep
a more comfortable pair in your desk and wear them when you are
seated, changing whenever you need to be visible. When choosing
dressy shoes, remember it takes stamina and guts to dance till dawn
in slender straps and sky-high heels, so be practical about your feet.
attention to them.

straps, ankle straps

Consider the following when purchasing shoes:

a) Choose shoes with leather welt and uppers. Leather allows
breathe and

is

more comfortable choice

feet to

as well as being

more

elegant.

Look at the welt which holds uppers and

made welt keeps the shoe in shape.

b)

c)

Check the counter.

heel.

counter

sole together.

well-

the back of the shoe above the

is

how a shoe salesperson bends this part of the shoe before

on your foot. Good counters snap back when pressed, test

Notice

placing

them.

it

gaping.

counter that

fits

properly, snug against the heel, prevents

The counter should not

fit too tightly, nor be too loose,

otherwise the shoe will rub and cause a blister.

d)

Run your hand

feel stitching

One's

feet

down

to the toe. If

need daily tender loving care! Perhaps

we would pay

70

inside the shoe,

your fingers

or ridges, you can be sure your feet will feel

as

much

attention to

them

as

if feet

it

too!

could smile

we do our

teeth!

The

Coordination
fact

is

that our faces

critical parts

do

reflect

our

of the body. Dr. Louis

phia foot surgeon,

tells

me

feet.

Feet are one of the most

Newman, a

friend

and Philadeltwo meta-

that the foot has four arches:

tarsals, the more important one running across the ball of the foot;
and the other at the junction where the metatarsal bones, coming
from the toe, join the ankle. The other two arches run lengthwise
along the bottom of the foot and are known as inner and outer

longitudinals. Supporting
feet

and fibrous

all this is

and heel of our

throughout which act as shock

tissue at the ball

layers interconnecting

absorbers.

High

heels force the weight of the

body from the

heels (which

are designed to carry this weight) forward to the metatarsal arch. If

worn

continually, high heels will cause the tendons in the back of

the foot to shrink.

To

prevent tendon shrinkage, alternate wearing

high and low heels. Narrow, cramped shoes cause corns, calluses

and bunions, which are inflammations of the first joint of the big
toe. Bunions, fallen arches and other foot faults can be genetic,
and contrary to what you might think, flat feet function as well if
not better than high arched feet. If however you have flat feet and
experience pain and other problems you will need supportive, well
fitting

shoes with arch inserts.

program of

foot care

It is

wise to institute a consistent

and have your

feet

checked regularly by a

foot doctor.

Thicker soles cushion

are

feet

more comfortable and

cushioning

effect,

on hard pavements and platform

soles

healthier for feet because in addition to the

platforms lessen heel heights and

its affect

on the

metatarsals.
If you participate actively in running, walking, tennis, golf, skiing
and other sports, do not skimp on the best specialized sports shoes
you can buy. They make a tremendous difference in your performance and the health of your feet. We see a dramatic difference in
skiing ability amongst beginners who wear good boots and those who
do not.
The best exercise for feet is walking. Running can trigger hidden
weaknesses. Walking briskly stimulates Circulation and is good not
only for the feet but for the heart as well. Walking barefoot on grass,
and sand is not only a wonderfully sensual experience it is good for
the feet! To strengthen feet, walk first on toes, then heels, outside of
soles, inside
flexibility.

of soles. Exercising individual sections increases foot

You can do

home on a carpeted
morning before you go

these exercises at

Try them while getting dressed

in the

surface.

to

work

or start a busy day.

71

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

As a child I had flat

and wore shoes with steel arches. My first summer at a health
camp when I saw my wet, barefoot imprint I was shocked. It was
totally flat. I was advised to go barefoot and to practice picking up
pebbles with my toes. I did this and other foot exercises all summer
and in the fall my wet imprint showed a well defined curve which
Flat feet can also be strengthened by exercise.

feet

exists to this day.

Wash

feet frequently

and dust with powder or cornstarch. En-

cased in synthetic hosiery and often cramped tightly into shoes, feet

damp environment all day and need to be aired and

washed to prevent fungus. Good foot care and good dental care go
hand in hand, they both lead to happy smiles!

are in a dark,

HANDBAGS
To counter the clobbering I have received on my travels by women
wielding heavy handbags, two suggestions on the proper

way

to carry

purses so they do not slug others unintentionally.

handbag has a handle, place arm through handle from the

1 5). This keeps palm to the waist and elbow close
to the body, steadying the handbag, and making it more resistant to
purse snatching. When carrying a shoulder bag, do not let it swing
carelessly. It bumps others as you go by and any miscreant can easily
make off with it. Hold onto the strap of the shoulder bag with your
If the

outside in (sketch

hand, keeping

it

close to the body.

A handbag is a somewhat permanent addition to the waist, shoulder and hipline of your clothes, for that

is

where

it is

usually carried.

Handbag proportions are important because the correct shape and

size can complement your outfit, and a poor choice can wreck an
otherwise lovely line. Long, narrow bags make you look taller; a
squat, short, straight-across-cut, cuts your height.

When

purchasing

a handbag, check the overall look. Mirrors in handbag departments

Take the handbag to a full

Your instincts have
been honed and you will be able to tell if the shape and size are right
for your figure, the kinds of clothes you wear and your needs.
Classic shapes are best and last longest, and if you are investing
in good leather handbags this is a consideration not to be lightly
dismissed. I have a collection of simple leather clutches which I
stored when styles changed to larger shapes. Now that clutches are
are like those in hat sections, table height.

length mirror and take a look at the total effect.

72

Sketch 15

73

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

my

good
They add eclat to an ensemble, upgrading less than costly
suits and separates. The flat handled bag, the clutch, the envelope,
the soft pouch are all lines which are timeless. If you avoid handbag
gimmicks, what you have should last. Colors are fun, so do not select
only drab shades. A vivid accent or two is a very useful addition to a
handbag collection. A handbag is an accessory as well as a necessity
and should be used to add interest to an outfit.
Leathers of all kinds, simply sewn, are best for suits and coats.
Larger shapes with more detailing such as saddle stitching, brass or
silver fastenings and buckles, pockets and other details in cowhides,
suedes, canvas, tapestries and leather with canvas are fun for sports
and country wear.
back,

leathers are right in style. Fine leathers or fabrics are a

investment.

Small clutches or pretty poufs in fabrics, beading, embroidery,

jeweled, gold, silver, satin, velvet or kids are lovely for evening. For

sheer enjoyment and practicality

chains and silk cords?

What

how about

terrific

the

little

containers on

idea for dancing and nights on

the town!

Check

clasps, handles, chains,

bags to see

if

frames and zippers when buying

they will take the kind of wear you intend to give them.

GLOVES
At one time no woman was considered well dressed without a pair
freer, easier, more eclectic lifestyle now makes gloves
mandatory only to keep hands warm. Fine leathers; kids and pigskins
however still add elan to clothes. My son Jeff gave me a pair of
Isotoners last Christmas, and I liked them so much I bought two
additional pairs in colors to blend with other outfits. I find them
sensational for driving, and I particularly like them for traveling,
of gloves. Our

because they

fit

so easily over rings.

Fond and funny memories of gloves as conversation

by-gone days come to mind. When I first began to perform
was engaged

pieces in
in 1958,

major convention in San Francisco, and

which opened the meeting. I knew no one
and the party was huge. Since San Francisco is an elegant city and in
1958 one dressed more formally, I went to the party in a simple black
dress, feathered black toque (same as is being worn today), one white
kid glove, and one black kid glove. I no sooner entered the packed
ballroom than a striking looking man approached me smiling.
to appear at a

invited to a cocktail party

74

Coordination

"Do you always do that?"

"Do what?" I fenced.
With an amused,

he asked.

inviting look he continued,

"Don't you know

you're wearing two different gloves?"

"The only thing I know for sure, is that I have another pair at
home just like these," I replied easily.
He burst out laughing and said, "Marvelous, I've always wanted
to meet a woman who wouldn't let her right hand know what her
hand's doing!"

left

The next two days

Gloves

like hats

San Francisco were

in

add

distinction, a finished touch, giving

special soignee feeling. Lovely leathers with a

to carry tiny, gold

You

one a

new coat make you itch

wrapped packages from

especially in long, 16 button length turn

a splendid creation.

divine.

Carrier's.

White

kid,

an old turkey of a dress into

stand elegantly, fully expecting a Rolls to

draw up and whisk you to the ball! And pigskins with tweeds or
denim make a walk through the woods feel as though you are tramping the moors of Balmoral with Prince Charles.
Gloves are great! Wear them not only for warmth, but for dash!

FURS
Fur is fabulous for sure, and as long as you do not wear furs
from endangered species, they are a useful, flattering addition to
an accessory collection. Whether you choose a hat, collar, ascot,
vest, jacket, shawl or coat; furs add a look of luxury to the plainest outfit. A fur should be the best you can afford. A fine lambskin is preferable to cheap mink, and a good fur trim is better
than a full coat of a lifeless, dull, shedding bargain. Furs are a
luxury item only as long as they look luxurious.

When

they've

aged noticeably, turn them into linings or fur throws for apres
ski. Since wearing qualities differ, select a fur which leads the life

you

lead. Perishable chinchilla or sheared beaver is a poor choice

an on-the-move- woman. This lady needs a fur that is as
hardy as she. Whichever fur you choose, allow it to envelope you
with its sensual softness, but do not allow it to totally hide you
check its proportions with your shape and height.
Furs fall into two categories: the long haired furs which have sleek
outer hairs and thick, soft underfur; the short, flat furs such as

for

75

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

These have only one layer of fur.

Both types can be bleached. The long haired furs can be plucked
and sheared to plush, velvet like textures such as sheared beaver.
Neither fur is better than the other, they all have excellent qualities, and depending on how, where and when you choose to wear furs
you may prefer one kind to the other. Try on a variety of furs in both
types to get the feel of what you like best. The sheared furs may mat
when wet, the long hairs sometimes shed. It is important that you
be aware of these various qualities with furs and the source from
which you buy your furs should specialize in them, for only a specialist can tell you what to expect.
A specialist can also advise and help you with matting; but nothing
helps shedding. This happens when the skins have dried out. Buying
furs in a store or fur salon that has an established reputation, or has
been recommended by someone you know who is satisfied with
previous purchases and service, is safest. Comparison shop before
you buy and try several stores before you make a decision, because a
very good fur is expensive and maybe a one time purchase for you.
Look at the labels when you browse for furs, because any fur
product costing more than $5.00 must bear a label which lists: the
make of the fur, the country of origin and the processing. The true
name of the fur is indicated. For example if the fur is a mink-dyed
muskrat, it will appear as "dyed muskrat." The country of origin is
important in determining the value and quality because Russian
sable is more opulent and lustrous than a similar coat made from
Canadian sable. The processing which changes the natural texture
and color through shearing, tip dyeing, or dyeing informs you of how
the fur has been treated. Furs, even second-hand furs, must be labelled by law, but second-hand furs may not contain the country of
origin, since it may not be known.
Fine furs have a lustrous, shiny look and the fur is thick or lush
depending on whether it is long haired or flat fur. Cheap furs look
dull and as lifeless as hair that needs washing. Good quality furs are
matched expertly, with the color, depth and texture even. Fur should
be thick and heavy on hard-wear areas such as collars, cuffs, front
edges, sleeves and pockets. Make sure fur coats fit comfortably, if
they are too tight, the pelted seams may split; too large a coat makes
calfskin or curly-like Persian lamb.

you look mountainous.

Some furs do not span generation gaps kindly. Lynx, red fox,
raccoon or wolf coats look sensational on tall, slender, youngish
women, but less attractive on mature women. Nothing ages a woman

76

Coordination

more than dressing too young. And, conversely, a mink or persian

lamb coat in too severe a line may not have enough pizzazz for a
younger woman. Therefore if you do not want to fall flat on your
fashion face, respect the age you are at the moment and choose a fur
which adds glamour, warmth and comfort.

HOW TO CARE FOR

a)

Furs need

other clothes.

b)

FURS

room in closets. Do not bunch or crush them against

Hang on well padded, wide-shouldered hangers.

Do not hang in a brighly lit room or closet.

the fur's color through oxidation. If

light,

cover

it

Bright light can change

you must hang fur

in a bright

with a cloth cover.

Never cover fur with a plastic bag! Plastic prevents air circulation
and will dry out skins. If you wish to cover fur, use a dark colored
c)

cloth.

some wet or snowy weather. After all, doesn't the

becomes soaked through, it is best to take it
to a furrier to be treated. Should fur become slightly wet, do not place
it near heat. Shake it and hang to dry where air circulates freely. Do
not comb or brush wet fur. Like human hair, combing or brushing
fur while wet stretches it and causes splitting.
d) Furs can take

animal? But

if

the fur

Having furs professionally cleaned once a year prolongs their life

by removing grit, dirt and air pollution chemicals. Professional care
also keeps leather supple

and

restores luster.

Make

sure to

mend

all

rips or tears promptly.

perfume and furs seem to go hand in hand, but not

Be careful of heavy jewelry such as bracelets rubbing
against fur and causing wear. Jewelry or flowers pinned to furs cause
punctures which can lead to rips and tears. Perfume contains alcohol
which stiffens hair and dries leather. It should never be applied
g) Jewelry,

together!

directly to fur.

h) Store furs in professional vaults

midity controlled during

warm

which are temperature and huDo not treat them yourself

weather.

77

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

with chemicals or sprays with which you have no expertise. Furs are
a costly and valuable investment. Treating them kindly insures not

only the investment you've made, but your enjoyment of this most
luxurious and sensual accessory.

EYEGLASSES
Despite Dorothy Parker and her famous (or infamous) quote
.

"Men

don't

make

passes at girls

who wear

glasses," eyeglasses

have become superb fashion accessories, certainly more glamorous

than tired looking eyes straining to see.

No woman need be upset over myopia, astigmatism or far-sightedon frames, glasses can actually
enhance one's looks, and with all the incredible advances in contact
lenses, those who detest wearing glasses have more options than ever.
ness. Since the designer influence

Even surgery

to reshape corneas in near-sighted people

is

being

My son

Jonathan has had special contacts fitted which he

seldom removes. A new development, not yet available in the United
States, they were prescribed in Canada and he wears them while
sleeping, showering and swimming!
perfected!

Know
tics

the shape of your face, your features and their characteris-

when you

or prominent?

select eyeglasses. Is

your nose short, wide, long, small

close together? Are your

Are your eyes wide-apart or

features regular, irregular, delicate or strong?

Know

also your skin

tone and the colors you wear most and coordinate the color, as well

frame to your face.

For example: mature people and those with pale skins look better
in frames whose color is warm and rosy rather than grey, light,
brown or amber, which may make them seem washed out. Warm
as the shape of the

tones such as plum, rust, rich

brown

are better for those with sallow

or olive skins. If you have high, vivid coloring, then the cooler
shades; blues, greens

and greys are

best. Stark, black

frames are good

only on young, unlined faces with good color and skin.

The

bridge and temple determine the overall shape of eyeand the color and shape can do much to camouflage. Frames
with darker colors on the outside edge and no color at the bridge
make close-set eyes seem wider; a dark bridge makes wide set eyes
seem close, and a darker, heavier bridge shortens the look of a long,
prominent nose.
Follow natural browline with frames at the level or slightly above
glasses,

78

lens,

Sketch 16

Round

Rectangular

Heart Shape

Diamond

79

"/ Haven't a Thing

the brow.

Too

far

above or too

far

below lends an

eerie,

To Wear!"
strange look

to the face.

The following suggestions should be of help when you choose new

glasses:

(sketch 16)

ROUND

FACE. Angular lines break up the round look. Avoid

Granny, Ben Franklin, and other too-small frames which emphasize
roundness.

RECTANGULAR FACE.

Width

at the

brow

is

needed to counter-

balance a large jaw. Frames which widen out on top and narrow

towards the cheek are

SQUARE FACE.

flattering.

Curves and rounded shapes soften the severity of a

square face.

HEART-SHAPED FACE, NARROW CHIN

fill

Squarish type frames

out narrow chins and equalize width of brow.

DIAMOND-SHAPED, OR LONG FACE.

narrow face.
of a wider brow.

cut the length of a long,

creates the illusion

Larger, roundish style

frame that

is

wider on top

ETHNIC CLOTHES
The penny-pinching
in ethnic stores for less

will find natural fibers

money: cotton

shirts,

and

interesting jewelry

blouses and skirts from

Mexico; wool jackets, ponchos,

vests, shirts and skirts from Peru,

Ecuador and Columbia; silk saris, silk by the yard, cotton madras
and mirror trimmed cottons from India; cotton caftans, dashikis, and
bolts of hand printed cotton cloth from Africa; embroidered silk
robes, jackets, shawls, scarves and satin slippers from China and

Japan.

The more adventurous might wish

to try an

embroidered

silk

Oriental robe with a large obi sash or a Chinese jacket sold in karate

shops over pants with cloth or straw Coolie slippers for at

entertaining or a special party.

One

home

of the more popular current

looks is the Oriental type hair-do accented with bamboo, bone or

enamelled Japanese and Chinese hair sticks, which sell for upwards
of $10.00 each in fine stores. It is a lovely, exotic look and you can

80

Coordination
easily

make

all

and
Benihana

the hair sticks you want simply by enamelling

varnishing chopsticks

especially those used in the

Restaurants which are not round, but square, tapering gracefully,

closely simulating the shape of the expensive hair

ornaments sold

in

stores.

Shop ethnic stores

for tons of different kinds of jewelry:

emeralds; South African diamonds; Indian rubies

penny pinching? More

Colombian
did

we

say

Mexican silver and turquoise are

less expensive than authentic American Indian jewelry. Large,
rough-cut stones of amber and coral, ebony and ivory bracelets and
pendants found in African shops cost less than their polished counterparts in department and jewelry stores. Greek donkey beads,
which you can string yourself to make handsome necklaces, are less
costly than good costume jewelry. East Indian mosaics which lend a
delicate touch to tailored clothes are sound jewelry investments, as
are the fairly inexpensive jade, ivory and enamelled pieces found in
realistically;

Oriental shops.

Handbags from foreign countries are interesting and functional.

Greek string tote bags are fun. Just the other night, I bought
a tiny, beautifully printed red satin disco bag on a long string to give
as a gift. It was only $1.75 in an Oriental shop.
Little

Consider also the exotic perfumes found in these shops to coordinate ethnics scents with your outfits ...

wearing sheep

oil

do

not, however, advise

with Greek skirts or Turkish coats.

When you travel, shop the native stores and invest in: hand knits,
wools and laces from Ireland, Scotland, England, Belgium, Norway,
Sweden and Finland; leathers from Spain, Italy and Morand vests, amber jewelry from Russia;
cotton gauzes from Greece and sheepskin from Turkey; bolts of silk
and other exotic fabrics from India and the Orient. Every country
has its special treasures for your home and wardrobe. Ethnic treasures are fashion investments which give you years of wear and enjoyment. They are classic and timeless and are out of style only when
Iceland,

rocco; fox hats, fur coats

they wear out!

LAYERING
Layering

is

the easiest

way

to climate control wardrobes as well

add new dimensions to ensembles. You can be warmer or cooler

simply by the way you choose to layer clothes. And save money by

as

81

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

mixing synthetics and natural

fibers,

keeping the natural

fiber closest

most efficient warmth or coolness. Skiers and

others outdoors in cold weather wear a number of lightweight layers
rather than one or two heavy articles, because air trapped inside
layers adds to insulation.
There is a definite duality in fashion between older and younger,
heavier and slimmer. To look best, vary the clothes you wear to suit
your age and size. People of any age can layer clothes and accessories
to complement the look and suit the need, but the way you do it
differs. For example: leg warmers, over jeans look great on young
women; leg warmers under jeans feel great on the more mature
person. Boots in outrageous colors over pants look smashing on the
slimly youthful; the same boots, under pants add color and warmth
for those less slim and less young.
Layering can also dress down or dress up clothes. My creative
to the skin for the

friend

Anne (she of the red-decorated leg cast) toned down a dressy

gown for a late afternoon wedding reception by coordinating

evening
it

with a simple wool sweater and

Layering also camouflages.

in Portland,

Oregon

belt.

A woman

took

me

aside after a

show
was

to confide in a whisper that the outfit she

wearing was a spur-of-the-moment creation. When she dressed that

morning, she found the "few pounds" she had gained would not
permit the top of her shirtwaist dress to close properly.
"It puckered,

and

was due

to be picked

up

shortly, so

quickly

grabbed a sleeveless blouse and wore it underneath."

She was wearing the shirtwaist dress open to the waist, revealing
a jewel neckline blouse in soft pink which coordinated handsomely

with the deep

Vests in

mauve

all their

print of the dress.

vests in clear, bright colors

skirts,

light

dressing.

add interest through layering. Down

worn over jackets and pants, sweaters and
short ski jackets spice up cool weather

variations

cloth coats,

Reversible vests lined in re-cycled furs, wools, leathers,

suedes, look great with business or sports clothes. Dressy vests in

velvets, brocades, satins, felts, wools, plaids, stripes, solids, plain or

embroidered, beaded or sequined, create fabulous accents for afterfive.

on

worn as jackets; tunics, overblouses; scarves,

on tights; skirts over leotards and short
shorts; drawstring harem pants over a body suit; petticoats and
camisoles worn over and under clothes, accessorized with colorful
cummerbunds or stretch belts; belts on belts ... the opportunities
Shirts

shirts; shirts

shawls; stockings; shorts

82

Coordination

and accessorizing is unlimited!

Even jewelry can be layered for an unpredictable look. I met a
beautiful blonde young woman with one of those marvelously bony
faces we all yearn for at the Marco Beach Hotel in Florida. I had
noticed her in the audience because she was wearing two pairs of gold
hoop earrings in each ear. Jill had two piercings in each ear, just
above and to the side of each other and she told me that she layered
her earrings for special effects. This time she wore a small gold hoop
inside a larger circle; other times she mixed studs with hoops and
for fanciful layering

precious stones with gold.

Add

it with contempoand pearls; chains, beads,

necklaces with other necklaces and charms or pins; brace-

interest to outdated jewelry

by combining

rary pieces; layer chains and beads; beads

and

pearls;

lets in different

colors or metals. Let your imagination take over as

your jewelry collection into new looks!

a little girl and played "dress-up?"
that you have collected in your closet
and dresser drawers can save you a bundle on new clothes and give

you

twist, twirl

and

tally

Remember when you were

Playing that game now with all

you

outfits that are different, individual

and fun

to wear!

THE MULTI
A dress as an accessory?
skills

If all the accessorizing

you are developing are not enough

change, the

MULTI

surely

is.

When

for a

and coordinating

complete and

designed

it

total

years ago as a

gimmick

for the Mike Douglas, Phil Donahue, and Dinah Shore

had no idea that it would be so functional. J intended it
initially as a one-time TV visual that would create conversation. It
has become the mainstay of my show and the instructions for the
MULTI have sold and continue to sell in the thousands. Others must

shows,

be finding

it

as convenient as

THE MULTI

is

have.

the ultimate accessory dress because

it

becomes

many different outfits. The idea for THE MULTI actually began
many years previously when I designed my first show dress. A convertible sheath in sheer black wool, that dress had a drop-down hem
which made it full length for evening. The inside of the hem was lined
in lace so that when lowered, the hemline mark of the short length

so

was not visible. In those days, in addition to a heavy lecture schedule

I had a busy public relations business and I needed a dress that would

83

Sketch 17

84

Coordination

work

instantly, if

One

change.

had

go from day to dark without a chance to

it paid me back for the hours I

to

rainy, miserable night

spent developing

it.

to attend a formal, fund-raising ball with

was

and lighting designer, who waited

and resplendent in evening dress at the airport while my
plane from Chicago circled, unable to land because of bad weather.
When it finally taxied to the gate, it was too late for me to go home to
Isaiah Roossine, a dear friend

impatiently

change.

Cy was grim
"I

"It's

know, don't worry,"

black

tie,

Judith!"

soothed, "I have

my

black

tie

on under-

neath."

"What?"
"Just wait a
I

moment,"

quickly undid the

hem

said, scurrying to the ladies

to the

room, where

amazement of a lady standing

at the

sink.

When
"I'll

walked out

in a full length

gown, Cy gasped:

be damned, a drop-down, drop-dead dress!"

THE MULTI is a more sophisticated and functional idea than that

first

and you

dress

your nimble

as

will enjoy its versatility, for

fingers, the

MULTI

is

it is

SNAP! Quick

ready for action

from

daytime, datetime looks right on through to the dressiest evening

THE MULTI is for women who wish to own an easily varied

and fashionable alternative to packing a lot of clothes. All you need
are its few pieces for many days of traveling, yet you'll always be able
to appear in one different look after another.
affairs.

Here's

how

Buy any
line dress.

to

add ... or subtract

to create the

MULTI.

pattern which offers a simple, classic, uncluttered straight

The

MULTI

can be made with either round, turtleneck or

V-necklines; either sleeveless or with bracelet-length sleeves, (sketch

17)

Cut pattern

to tunic-length. If

should be wrist-length. If you

fingertip-length. It

is

you are

5'4"

and under, tunic

are over 5'4", tunic

should be cut to

important for you to add 3Vi" when cutting

make a 1 Vi " cuffed hem. If you prefer a wider cuffed hem,

cut 4" for a 2" cuff, etc. If there is no right side to the fabric, fold
tunic to

fabric

up and blind-stitch.

If there is a distinct difference in either the

weave, pattern or color of both sides of the fabric, fold

hem

under,

then up for cuff and blind-stitch, (sketch 18)

To make

the additional tiers for your

MULTI

measure the

dis-

85

Sketch 18

86

Sketch 18

87

Sketch 19

Sketch 19

89

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

tance between your fingertips or wrist to your ankle or heel, depending on

how low you

Divide by three
sure to add 3 Vi
tunic cuff.

To

are the easiest

"

prefer your hemline.

.

Cut the

making
match the

fabric into three equal tiers,

to each tier, so that

it

can be

hemmed

to

attach tiers for various lengths, sew on snaps. Snaps

way

in

which

to attach the tiers to each other.

Snaps

can be purchased on tape and sewn directly to the underside of the

hem, and the corresponding tape to the outside top of the next
attaching

tier.

Certain synthetic fabrics are not compatible with the

it may be necessary to sew each snap on

by hand. Tedious, yes, but do it while watching television and it
won't seem to take any time at all.
To insure that you will not confuse your different tiers, sew one
or two snaps on each hem with different bright colored threads. Do
this with the corresponding snaps on the attaching tiers, (sketch 1 8)
Sew the snaps approximately 2" apart. There is no problem in
sitting. You will find that the snaps do not come apart. Just be careful

tape sewn snaps. Therefore,

when sliding across the seat of a car.

The cuffs add a finished look to the MULTI and provide the means
by which the separate

tiers are attached. For very light-weight fabyou may need a heavier banded cuff to hold the attaching tiers.
Cut longer lengths on tunic and tiers, and fold cuffed hems to two

rics

or three or four thicknesses.

The second
It is

tier offers

you the choice of wearing a mid-calf length.

important to maintain this

tier for

the overall proportion of the

long-line dress, (sketch 18)

Two

tunic tops are preferable. Sleeved tunics afford a

more

tail-

ored look and are handsome with street-length skirts or slacks.

Sleeveless tunics are dressier with mid-calf

and

full-lengths, (sketch

19)

THE MUL TI VARIA TIONS

Add pants to the tunic, either in matching or contrasting fabrics.
Make them yourself or choose any compatible pair from your closet.
Add one, two, or three skirt tiers. Go from street to mid-calf to
full lengths,

as your needs vary. Create original looks for a variety

of skirts to be worn with your basic tunic top. Perhaps, a plaid in

a bias swirl ... or a bright, colorful chiffon in an exotic print.
a matching chiffon scarf at the waist or
accents.

90

on the head

Add

for evening

Part

Doing

It!

6
Scarves

How To

Tie

One On

Silky, feminine, soft, colorful, flattering, scarves

more than any

other accessory stimulate your creative expression, adding cachet,

character,

and proportion to

outfits otherwise

Wind them handsomely around

your neck, your head, your hips, your

the

way

to use scarves

Use scarves

is

anonymous.

every part of you!

wrists,

as varied as their shapes

mask an

for camouflage: to

Wear them on

even your legs ... for

and

colors.

unattractive neck or surgi-

skimpy hairline; to cover a shoulder sling; to

wrap around a knee brace while skiing. Scarves are protective as well,
to keep you warm on icy days and to make you look chic in stormy
cal scar; to soften a

weather.

A joyful and playful experience, mastering these easy ways to wear

scarves will stimulate your

even thought

own

imagination for ideas

we

haven't

of!

Many women

ask

around. Scarves

hidden safety pin

me how

they can keep their scarves from sliding

will slip unless

will

anchored. While a costume pin or

hold a scarf in place, a fabric loop, sewn into

is even better. The loop becomes an integral

and affords opportunities for creative variations
with scarves and other accents not possible with pins. Loops can be
made of matching or contrasting fabrics. Experiment with the fol-

the neckline of clothes,

part of the garment

93

Sketch 20

Pin

94

from

inside '

Sketch 21

Using the loop

95

Sketch 22

Petal Flounce

Flower Flounce

96

Scarves
lowing suggestions and you will find wearing scarves and other neckline accents a carefree experience!

THE LOOP

(sketch 20)

Fold 2 inch square of fabric into double thickness. (To match a

ready-to-wear garment, snip fabric from under
Stitch

hem or inside facing.)

one end; turn inside out. Sew or pin unstitched end to inside

facing of neckline. Bring stitched end

to outside

by pinning from

up and over

Since fabric

inside.

is

neckline. Secure

doubled, pin will

not show. Ideas for using loop appear throughout this chapter.

For contrast, loops can be made of grosgrain,

satin ribbon as well as soft leathers, suede or

velvet, taffeta or

If

you wish to add

tweeds and textures, make loops

versatility to prints, plaids, checks,

either of

felt.

matching cloth or contrasting

solids.

Place loops at any angle: at shoulder; apex of V-necklines; as-

Loops not only anchor scarves, they work

and little, fussy or tailored; organdy ruffles; eyelet
embroidery; glittery net; jewelry, and flowers, (sketch 21)
Sew two different colored bows together. Stitch a sheer plaid or-

symetrically or centered.
well with bows; big

ganza bow to a solid color

silk.

Make

a three-layered

bow

(print in

center between two sheer solids). Thread chains through loop.

many variations
your own designs.

a stickpin or other favored jewelry

Let your imagination create

When not needed,

unpin the loop, tuck

it

Use

are possible.

back inside neckline and

top can be used for other types of accessorizing.

Loops on

anchor lace, ruffles, embroidered edgings, fringe,

updating outfits with which you have become
bored. These ideas are to get you started on your own. They are a
take off point for imaginative use of trimming to change clothes still
functional but which you are tired of emotionally.
sleeves

fabric, scarves, boa,

Another way to hold scarves in place are your brassiere straps!

(And you thought they were only for holding up two things?) Brassiere straps are

super to prevent scarf slippage!

PETAL FLOUNCE

(sketch 22)

Pick up 24 or 30 inch square scarf in center.

Pull through brassiere strap at shoulder

and out over neckline.

97

7 Haven't
Tuck end under

a Thing To Wear!"

flounce.

Secure with jewelry or hidden safety pin.

FLOWER FLOUNCE

(sketch 22)

Follow same directions for the Petal Flounce.

Bring end of scarf out over flounce. Widen into
Place small pin in center for flower

BASIC SCARF FOLD

well.

effect.

(sketch 23)

Square scarves are more versatile than oblongs and are better buys
if your budget is limited. Every square can be made into an oblong
with the basic scarf fold, and the folded square has a fullness which
is

is

when

particularly attractive

many

draped.

The basic

fold

is

necessary for

of the scarf variations in this chapter and for head wraps.

It

easy to learn:

Lay square scarf

for

narrower

Fold ends into center, overlap. Double again

flat.

effect.

Scarf will lay neatly,

flat

on the neck.

VARIA TIONS WITH BASIC SCARF FOLD (sketch 23)

Wear knot centered, at the shoulder, or back
of neck. To make square knot: cross one end over the other and loop;

Tie into square knot.

cross opposite end over,

BRA-CROSS

and knot.

(sketch 24)

24 or 30 inch square, basic fold. Drape around neck; cross ends in

front; secure around bra straps. A lovely look for difficult to accessorize cowl, ring or stand-up collars, the bra-cross keeps you warm on
wintry days.

PUSSYCAT BOW

(sketch 25)

and feminine, Pussycat Bows are good contrast for tailored outfits. A 24 inch scarf becomes a smaller, tighter bow; a 30 inch
square a larger, softer bow. Make basic fold. Pull each end part way
through loop. Widen to create fullness. Silk crepes and twills make
Flattering

firmer bows, chiffons wispier ones.

CASUAL TIE
24 or 30 inch

(sketch 25)
scarf, basic fold. Pull

CASUAL FLOUNCE
24 or 30 inch

98

(sketch 25)

scarf, basic fold.

longer; pull longer

through loop.

Bring round neck,

end over shorter as

illustrated.

make one end

Scarves

TWISTED CHOKER

(sketch 26)

18 or 24 inch square, basic fold. Tie knot in center; tie ends in back,

tuck

in;

tucked

or twist scarf into thin rope,

tie

and wear ends

loose, or

in.

DOG COLLAR

(sketch 26)

24 or 30 inch square, basic

fold.

Cross ends, bring to front and

Drape around neck, ends in back.

into square knot. Widen ends so

tie

they stand out.

DOG COLLAR ASCOT

Same

(sketch 26)

you bring ends to front, flip one end over

the other and widen into ascot. These two dog collar ties look great
on T-shirts, sweat shirts and jogging suits. They add a little extra
touch which might catch the eye of that other early morning jogger!
as above, but after

FLOUNCE FOLD
The accordian

(sketch 27)

pleated flounce fold adds a soft, feminine touch to the

most severely tailored clothes. Hold 30 inch square taut in both

hands. Accordian pleat by folding scarf back and forth. Drape
around neck, pull through loop (or circle pin). Separate folds, creating a fluted

fall.

RING FLOUNCE

(sketch 27)

Pleat flounce as above. Pull through loop, then pull scarf

at shoulder creating a shorter flare

JABOT FLOUNCE

and a standup

up

(sketch 27)

Pleat flounce. Shorten one end, pulling short end over long.

and anchor with

slightly

collar effect.

Widen

stickpin.

SHOR T FLOUNCE

(sketch 27)

and fan out. Or wear

on your handbag or as a pony-tail flounce. Pony-tail flounces fill out
skimpy hair and when used in a color which blends with hair, make it
seem thicker. When worn on shoulder handbag it helps to prevent
straps from slipping off shoulder.
Note: When using flounce folds through the loop you may find that
Pleat 24 or 30 inch square. Tie around neck

loop

will

have to be either longer or shorter to accommodate thick-

ness of fabric. Simply adjust the pinning.

99

Sketch 23

100

Sketch 24

Bra Cross

101

Sketch 25

The Pussycat

Bow

The Casual Flounce

102

Ki

Sketch 26

Twisted Collar

Dog

Dog

Collar

Collar Ascot

103

Sketch 27

Jabot Flounce

Handbag Flounce
Ponytail Flounce

104

Sketch 28

Turn knotted
scarf inside out

The Knotted Ascot

105

Sketch 29

Front Knot

106

Scarves

KNOTTED ASCOT

(sketch 28)

Foldover, oblong ascots are a pain in the ascot because they slip and
require constant adjustment.
fills

in

The knotted

ascot stays in place and

center. Tie a tight knot. Flip square over so that knot

ends

it

widely cut necklines. Lift 24 or 30 inch square directly in

is

inside. Pull

tuck under collar and pin. Tuck triangular end

taut, tie in back,

of ascot into bra and secure. If scarf drapes to one side, knot

is

not

centered. Redo.

Wear knotted

ascot with: cardigan sweaters (open the

buttons), shirts, shirtwaist dresses

first

three

and V-necklines of any kind. The

lushest ascots are of silk, but interesting variations can be

made with

sheer wools, and other fabrics. Ascots of velvets, satins, laces and

sequined or jewel-studded fabrics are stunning evening accents, especially

when worn with

TRIANGULAR FOLD

velvet or satin blazers.

(sketch 29)

Fold 24 or 30 inch square into triangle. Tie ends into square knot.
Wear centered, at shoulder or in back.

THE VAQUERO
Make

(sketch 29)

triangular fold.

With point

ends around neck,

in front, bring

cross over, bring to front, tie in square knot.

OBLONG SCARVES
Long, rectangular scarves, while not as

versatile as the square

should

be included in any sophisticated scarf wardrobe. Their longer length

is

particuarly useful

more

OBLONG FOLD
Lay

when

tying scarves for V-necklines, which are

flattering, especially for the heavier person.

(sketch 30)

scarf out. Fold one side V$ up. Fold opposite side to overlap.

Fold once more.

If

you do not want too narrow a

scarf, eliminate last

fold.

OBLONG KNOT
Make oblong

(sketch 30)

Bring scarf around neck, with one end longer.

Loop an open knot with this longer end. Pull shorter end through

loop.

fold.

Even out

ends. (Fantastic camouflage for front-buttoned, too-

tight blouses.)

107

Sketch 30

Oblong Fold

108

Sketch 31

Blithe Spirit

Single scarf pulled through loop

109

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

CRISS-CROSS (sketch 30)

Make oblong fold. Bring around

neck. Criss-cross under bosom.

Secure to bra.

V-LOOP (sketch 30)

Make oblong fold. Pull
V-neckline.

scarf through loop

sewn

into

bottom of

A lady once wrote to tell me that after she had

perform, she went

home and sewed

seen

me

loops on her brassiere to wear

with V-neckline scarves!

V-BOWS

(sketch 30)

Make oblong

fold. Pull

BLITHE SPIRIT

through loop,

tie

into flowing bow.

(sketch 31)

Long, rectangular panels also make for a delightful, floating look. A

silky or sheer gossamer fall that follows you as you move lends
fluidity

and grace

to short or long evening dresses; or turns daytime

Handy for
when you must go from day to

dresses into after-five ensembles with the twist of a knot!

traveling or for those special times

dark with no time to go

home and

answer! Tie two long

or chiffon lengths into a square knot. Fling

silk

change; the Blithe Spirit

is

over shoulders. Secure to neckline with jewelry or a hidden pin.

Or

through loop and toss backwards.

a jeweled pin to loop. Fabrics that float, silk that swings, all add

take one very long length, pull

Add

the

it

drama and a deliciously fragile feeling.

The Blithe Spirit is excellent camouflage if you have gained weight
and the extra pounds show in back along the brassiere and panty line.
Tossed over the shoulder, these lengths conceal telltale bulges.
Choose silks and chiffons in solids or prints; or combine light and
dark tone chiffons. Double the lengths for a Salome effect. If you
cannot find long lengths in manufactured scarves, buy fabric; cut to
desired length and

hand

roll

the edges.

You

will save substantially

by making your own lengths out of yard goods.

CIRCLE SCARVES
The circular, cowl-type scarf known as a "smoke ring" was bought
by thousands of women several years ago, who stuck them into
dresser drawers because they found them difficult to wear. If you see
any

110

silk

smoke

rings at yard sales

and

flea

markets, grab them up.

Sketch 32

4.

Dropped bow

6.

1.

Smoke

ring epaulet

Through bra strap

around neck

2.

Through bra strap

on shoulder
3.

Side sweep

through loop

111

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

If

you've saved those you bought, haul them out and wear them. The

following illustrates

how

circle scarves

can be valuable additions to

an accessory wardrobe.

new

which
you have a skimpy or stretched-out
turtleneck, a smoke rings fills it out and makes it more interesting.
For a voluptuous feeling, add a velvet circle scarf to a crew-neck
sweater; combine it with a long skirt and you have an evening ensemCircle scarves create

you have become bored.

ble.

necklines, updating clothes with

If

tweedy dress itches

If a

comfort and

eclat.

Change

at the neck, a silk

colors you've tired

to be muted, sharpened or livened, with

textures.

circle scarf

at the throat,

while

it

of,

smoke

ring adds

colors which need

cowl scarf overlays

vary

tucked into a coat creates not only warmth

but eliminates the bulkiness of a square or oblong scarf

maintains a voluminous, contemporary look!

If you have no smoke rings and cannot find one, they are easy to
make. You won't even need a sewing machine if you can do a small

Buy silk, velvet, jersey, wool, or whatever fabric you like

Cut a piece approximately 14 by 30 inches. Double 14 inch
width into 7 inches, stitch. Cut ends of 30 inch length on bias and
sew together. You now have a circle scarf 7x15 inches which you
slip over your head. Since it is a bias cut, it stretches and can also
be used as a headband or hatband.
handstitch.

best.

CIRCLE SHOULDER FLOUNCE

The

(sketch 32)

brassiere strap holds these variations in place.

3t 1 Drape circle scarf around neck, pull through brassiere strap, up

and out over shoulder of top.
#2 Pull circle scarf through bra strap and out over shoulder. (Do
not drape around neck.)

CIRCLE SIDE-SWEEP

#3 Drop
CIRCLE

#4

(sketch 32)

over head, pull through loop.

BOW

(sketch 32)

Pull through loop for a

dropped bow

CIRCLE JABOT (sketch 32)

#5 Pull through loop. Bring short

112

effect.

end over longer,

pin.

CIRCLE EPAULET (sketch

#6

Attach

32)

circle or bar pin to

shoulder of garment. Pull scarf

through.

V-NECK CIRCLE

#7 Add

(sketch 32)

color and drape to V-necks with circle scarves.

around neckline, tucking end into

bra. Secure with pin; or

Drape

wear scarf

outside of V, accented with flower or jewelry as illustrated.

SCARF BLOUSES
When you

need a

silk

(sketches 33

&

34)

blouse in a hurry, scarf blouses

Worn

made of 30 inch

day or evening, silk scarf

blouses are also cooler and more comfortable under suit jackets on
hot days then sleeved shirts or blouses. Scarf blouses pack easily for
traveling. They save room in your suitcase and double as shawls,
cocoon capes, beach coverups, head and hip wraps. You can add
or 36 inch squares are the answer!

for

finishing touches to scarf blouses with jewelry, belts, or another small

scarf tied

around the throat. Try a scarf blouse under an old

worn open.
With the cost of silk

shirts soaring, silk scarf blouses are

shirt

economi-

cal.

In addition, colors and patterns in scarves and silk yard goods

are

more

vivid

Make your own

and varied than those found in blouses and shirts.

squares by buying one yard of silk fabric 36 inches

Use full 36 inches or cut square to 30 inches. Hand roll the

Without a jacket, the 36 inch scarf blouse is a handsome halter
and looks sensational atop evening skirts or satin pants. Even if you
are not small and firm-bosomed, the halters made of 36 inch squares
afford numerous folds which kindly camouflage mature breasts. Do
not wear the 30 inch scarf blouse without the jacket unless you have
a young looking bosom.
wide.

edges.

TRIANGLE TOP

(sketch 33)

Fold 30 or 36 inch square into

triangle.

Sew snaps

into top ends of

30 inch triangle. Drop over head. Close snaps at back of neck. Tie
other two ends around waist. Tie 36 inch triangle around neck. Fan
out or tuck ends in. Fold bottom of triangle over one or two times
to create a belt effect and tie in back.

DRAPED COWL

(sketch 34)

Tie two top ends of 36 inch square around neck. Fan ends out or tuck

113

Sketch 33

Snap

Triangle

114

Top

Sketch 34

Draped Cowl
Take two top corners
Tie

behind

neck

View

1.

View

2.

Turn bottom of
scarf up

and

over. Tie in
to

form

back

belt.

Pull cowl

over belt

115

Sketch 35

116

Sketch 36

Cocoon Cape

Put arms through

arm hole

117

Sketch 37

Tied

under arm

Shawls

118

Tied in back

Scarves
in.

Fold bottom up as belt or wear bloused over top of waistband.

Tie in back.

Experiment with fabrics other than

silk for interesting effects.

Combine two layers of silk chiffon in varying colors. Try paisleys,

challis, fine combed cottons, sequined or jewel-studded nets, lace,
gold and silver threaded silks. Bead or sequin the pattern in the lace
for super sparkle.

shimmer atop

Imagine how sequined lace and jewel-studded nets

slinky pants or under velvet blazers!

SCARF DICKEY

(sketch 35)

Use oblong scarf or

fabric 48 inches or longer. Criss-cross. Overlap

made of same fabric. Gather top in soft

and stitch so that dickey lays neatly on back of neck. Blend light

ends. Stitch to ribbon or belt

folds

and dark color chiffons for variations. Make reversibles, perhaps

satin on one side, velvet on the other. Make slinky evening dickeys
out of sequined, jeweled, lacy and brocaded fabrics. Seek out lush,

penny-pinching remnants in fabric shops.

Wear

the scarf dickey as

a halter or topped with a jacket.

THE COCOON CAPE

Fold 36 inch

silk

(sketch 36)

square in

half.

Tie square knots at each end. Fan

out evenly. Put arms through and you have a billowing topper for
tube and other strapless tops (some

made

of scarves.)

over a solid color, long sleeved sheath, the

brightly colored, silk print

SHAWLS

is

When worn

COCOON CAPE

in a

smashing!

(sketch 37)

Large sized shawls are great for creative accessorizing. Over a turtleneck, a shawl is more versatile, flattering and comfortable than a

poncho. Around the shoulders, or the hips

Traveling with a wool or challis shawl

because of the

many

different

ways

in

is

it

adds a new dimension.

handier than taking a coat,

which

it

can be worn

shawls are attractive alternatives to sweaters in spring and

and

fall.

SCARF HALTERS
Bare and beautifully convenient, scarf halters are best on those who
can afford to bare it. If you are slender and taut on top, try them.

They

are comfortable

and easy to make.

119

Sketch 38

Halter Ties

120

Sketch 39

Top:

'"

Tie

"

^ptfr-Sew together

on Scarf Bikini

121

7 Haven't a Thing To
BASIC HALTER TIE

(sketch 38)

Tie two oblong scarves or fabric at least 30 inches long together

with square knot. Place knot in center of bosom,

back. Use cotton because silk tends to

CROSS-MY-HEART-TIE

#2

Wear!'

tie

ends behind

slip.

(sketch 38)

Drape scarf around neck, cross over bosom,

SHOULDER HALTER (sketch 38)

#3 A three yard rectangular length is

back.

tie in

needed. Drape around neck,

bringing fabric to the back under arms. Criss-cross in back. Bring

and

fabric to front

tie

TWIST HAL TER

with square knot, tucking ends

in.

(sketch 3 8)

#4

Use two 36 inch squares. Make basic scarf folds. Drape one
folded square around bosom and tie in back. Roll other folded square
tightly;

loop through center of fabric tied around bosom. Tie in back

of neck. Place tied end under fabric between breasts so that line at

back of neck is smooth; or tie a knot

and tie again at back of neck.

SCARF BIKINI

of

in center

bosom

(sketch 39)

Fold two square 36 inch scarves or fabric into two

stitch pointed

for accent

triangles.

Double

ends of triangles securely. Tie around hip. Yard square

cotton remnants are ideal for these bikini wraps and less expensive

than manufactured bikinis. Remnants are even

yard goods cut from

SKIRT WRAPS

expensive than

(sketch 40)

bikini coverup; the skirt

or one piece of fabric, 36

terry, the skirt

less

bolts!

wrap

is

be used as a sand mat.

wrap

is

made with two 36

72 inches.

When

delightful beach wear,

Made

of

silk

inch scarves

crafted of cotton or

and when opened, can

or exotic fabrics, the skirt wrap

provides endless variety for late day and evening wear. For short,
short skirt wraps, fold fabric in half lengthwise.
1

Drape

36

72 inch fabric around waist. Center fabric with

longer length in right hand, shorter in

left.

(Reverse

if

you are

left-handed.)

(marked middle on
Grasp center of
end of
hand.
Make a small neat knot, smoothing out ends so

to
3

flat

122

fabric

sketch). Tie securely

fabric in left

as possible.

that knot lays as

Scarves

Fold remaining fabric in right hand in half, tuck behind knot.

Finished skirt wrap flows gracefully to ankle and your choice of

fabric sets the theme.

GRECIAN WRAP
Fabric required

(sketch 41)

36

is

72 inches, or you can sew two scarves

Hold material in front of you

if you are left-handed.)
Pull fabric under left arm and around back. Make sure it is taut.
Wrap fabric under bust and under left arm again. Tie tightly on right
together to obtain a 72 inch length.

with one corner

shoulder.

Wear

at right shoulder.

it

short for the beach, long for evening.

HALTER WRAP
Wrap
taut

(Reverse

(sketch 42)

scarf or fabric behind back, bring ends to front.

and

out.

Hold

fabric

Cross two ends twisting the fabric of each end tightly

into rope. Tie behind neck. This

with fabric that has a

wrap

is

especially lovely

"hand" such

soft, silky-type

when done

as cotton sheers,

Qiana or Trevira.

jersey,

SCARF SKIR TS
Two

(sketch 43)
36 inch scarves or fabric are needed, plus ribbon or tape for

drawstring. Print scarves and border printed fabric

comfortable and economical

skirts.

make

printed lengths which require only simple stitching to

or

full

length

skirt.

Fabric choice will determine

colorful,

sell

border

make

a short

Fabric stores also

how and where you

use the scarf skirt. Cottons, terrys, velours are for casual and sports
occasions. Silks, satins, laces

and other fancy

fabrics create dressy

skirts.

Sew

two 36 inch scarves or fabric together. Allow

more seam allowance. (If you are more than size 12, use
45 or 48 inch width.) Pink and press seams open. Make one inch hem
at top for drawstring casing. Stitch both top and bottom of casing
right sides of

Vi inch or

hem; thread ribbon or tape through casing for drawstring.

Accent with gypsy hip wrap or a scarf belt wrapped double around
waist. If you are larger than size 1 2 forego the waist wraps and wear
an overblouse loose or belted, with a narrow belt which matches the
blouse.

TRIANGLE TOGA

(sketch 44)

Take two 46 inch squares; seam sides

inches open at sides for armholes. Join

Vi inch

from edge, leaving 10

triangles at shoulders, turning

123

Sketch 40

124

Sketch 41

Wrap fabric
under bust
an d under

K" "~h
\

N^l C
>

arm. Pull

\
\

taut.

Wrap

again.

Hold one corner

at shoulder.

Grecian

Wrap

125

Sketch 42

The
Halter

126

Wrap

Sketch 43

Scarf Skirt

Stitch

wrong

sides together
V2"

Hem

seam.

bottom.

Pull ribbon

through casing.

127

Sketch 44

/.

Seam to
10" from

2.

top.

Join

Turn points
to inside

and

blind stitch

Join at shoulders

3.

Hem

all

Finish

Triangle Toga

128

around.

arm

holes.

Sketch 45

129

'I

triangle tops

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

under to form bateau neckline. Top or blind stitch

Hem all around. Slip over head and

neckline and armhole openings.

allow to

fall

gracefully.

Color and fabric make the Triangle Toga casual or excitingly

dressy.

made

An ideal design for bold,

bi-color dressing, the Triangle

Toga

coverup for bathing

suits,

in vivid cottons or terry is ideal as a

shorts and pants.

When made in lustrous silks or synthetics and worn

with a colorful headwrap and massive jewelry

it

makes a

striking

evening ensemble.

GYPSY WRAP

(sketch 45)

Fold a print scarf (36 or 48 inches) into triangle. Tie at hip. The
Gypsy wrap can also be worn toreador style over one shoulder, and

under the other. Try

it

with a stunning beach hat and a rose in your

hair!

HIP, WAIST SASHES AND STOLES (sketch 45)

Centered or side-swept, loosely hung or tied tightly, empire style, or
at the waist, sashes and stoles add contrast and character to pants,
skirts and dresses. Choose long lengths in exotic colors and cloth.
Heavier textures sit better. Fine, silky fabrics slip.

TWISTED BELT

(sketch 45)

Twist different color scarves into a rope

belt,

or plait chiffon and

other soft fabrics into a braided belt. Scarves should be long enough
so that ends fan out into soft folds.

Silky scarf accents in patterns, prints

and

solids create softness

and

drape. In muted, shaded, or bold toned colors, scarves add a distinctive

and individual touch to

combined with scarves

clothes.

Many

other accents can be

to fully express your coordinating talents.

Rummage
collectibles

trimming

through drawers, sewing baskets and attic trunks for

which when used with purpose, become design. Trek to

stores,

explore boutiques, bazaars, yard sales, antique

shops. Seek out the unique, the extra special accent that you will

wear with stunning

fancy trims.

Look

Collect fabrics, beading, embroideries and

remnants of costly designer fabrics which are

effect.

for

too small, or too expensive for dresses or suits but create sensational

130

Scarves
ties, dickeys, wrap skirts and sashes.
With your accessorizing antennae sensitized to the potential of
putting it all together you will create many unique, unusual images,

scarf blouses, bows,

expressing your talented touch!

131

7
Hats To Take
You Everywhere

Late for a show one day,

you please take

me

hurried into a taxi exclaiming,

"Would

to the Plaza as quickly as possible?*'

"Lady, with that hat, Pd take you anywhere!" the cabbie grinned.
he did, faster than any cab ride Pve known. When we arrived
at the Plaza Hotel, it was noon, and terribly crowded. The doorman
was busy, and the cabbie got out of the car, walked around, opened
the door and helped me out, show luggage and all.
A man waiting for a taxi said, "That's one for the books, when did
you ever see a New York cabbie do that before?"
My driver, smiling, tipped his hat as I paid him and winked at the

And

man

"With

that hat,

how

could

help it?"

In a recent interview, Yves St. Laurant

world of fashion

is

is

quoted as saying, "The

total illusion."

Wearing a hat creates an

illusion of

beauty and class that no other

accessory can match. Fashion creates beauty, not only in what

we

wear, but in our manners and attitude, and in the attitude which

The well-groomed, handsomely dressed, selfmoves with ease and efficiency in an everchanging
and increasingly demanding society.
While it is no longer an absolute that one must wear a hat as it
was years ago, and many woman elect to go hatless, the fact is that
others express to us.
confident person

an ordinary looking woman takes on charisma with the right kind

of hat! Men open doors for her, and other doors open as well, for

132

Take You Everywhere

Hats

to

when

a hat compliments a

it

woman's

face,

and completes her costume,

lends an indefinable magnetism that draws people.

The woman not

only looks elegant, distinctive, important, she looks special.

A hat that is truly a hat, worn with confidence and flair, not only
makes a woman look years younger, it makes her more interesting,
and creates in her a sensuous, feminine feeling. She becomes the kind
of woman who turns heads, and how they turn!
How many times has your head turned in an airport or on a city
street when a man wearing a dashing snapbrim strides by, when a
vibrant young woman, hair flying under a perky beret, runs to greet
friends, or when a chic, stylish lady in a slouch hat, trenchcoat and
attache' case steps smartly with business companions?
I have watched with amusement for 22 years scene after scene and
it is always the same
people with hats are looked at, which is what
scares many out of wearing a hat! They are concerned about being
conspicuous. And yet, many strive for attention and shock value
.

with open-to-the- waist-shirts, see-through blouses, slit-to-the-thigh

skirts and postage stamp bikinis. Why not hats? If you do not feel
conspicuous in a stunning ensemble, why should you be wary of
wearing a stunning hat? Hats do not create problems, more often

they compensate for them.

Some women have the confidence

the most outlandish outfits, yet

do not have the courage

wear
wear a

to

to

hat!

One

spring,

design, very

my

much

walk-in-show hat was a beautiful Frank Olive

was a wide-brimmed
warm color were
kind to my face. A very large woman came up after the performance
and gushed, "I just love your hat, / wish I had the nerve to wear it "
She was wearing a shocking pink shirtwaist dress belted at the
waist! All 250 pounds of her! / would not have had the nerve to wear
that! If only she had worn a subdued, beltless dress and accessorized
it with the hat I was wearing, she would have looked magnificent
shocking pink

like his

silk. Its softly

instead of mountainous.

than on her

current

line.

It

shaped contours and

The accent would have been on her

friendly

blown frame.
Hats do for women (and men) what they cannot do for themselves,
creating an aura of contour and color which softens lines, bringing
radiance to the face and a finished, confident touch to the total look.
Designers, fashion editors and photographers know how hats enhance ensembles and include headwear in fashion shows, press showings, photographic layouts and advertising to punctuate a costume's
face, rather

full

dramatic appeal.

133

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

Hats are especially complimentary to today's more natural,

loosely structured hairstyles. Short, shaggy cuts, little-head-pulled-

back looks, long, flowing hair and short, sculpted cuts look smashing
with hats. And the hats themselves are so comfortable and easy to
wear. Choosing a hat is not difficult; you've become aware of which
lines are best for you and the following guidelines for hats add to this
awareness.

HOW TO CHOOSE A HAT

In addition to checking the look both coming and going in a
table-top mirror

length mirror.
look.

Wear an

intended to

fit

and hand mirror; check the

overall look in a full-

A hat that fits your face may be all wrong for the total
outfit

you plan to wear with the

hat, or if the hat

is

almost everything you have, in your mind's eye have a

clear picture of the shapes

it

will

coordinate with. Hats should

enhance, not overwhelm.

Despite design changes, hats

Crown

heights

fall

and brim widths

essentially the shapes sketched

into the basic shapes illustrated.

will

vary from year to year, but

remain

classic,

Small brims and higher crowns look best on

petite

(sketch 46)

women, lengthen-

ing their silhouette.

and flat crowned hats look better on the young. They compliment long hairdoes and shorten an elongated face. Those with short
necks and round faces should avoid berets and flat crowns.

Berets

and profile hats flatter those

when wearing glasses. (I wear my

Softly contoured brims; upturned brims

who wear glasses.

Tilt hats slightly

hats tilted so that people

do not notice

my

teeth

tilt

too. I

have an

uncorrected bite and wearing hats to the side tricks the eye.)

Turbans have been timeless since the days of the old Arab Sheiks or
was it chic Arabs? If a turban does not fit you properly, stuff it with
tissue or hose so that it sits full and high. (Hosiery in your hat is great
insurance if you run into trouble. An extra pair may get a snag in
your bag, but they'll never run in your bun.) For those with good skin
and even features, turbans are terrific for travel and marvelous camouflage. Want to have a frizzy, fuzzy look for a night on the town?

134

Hats

to

Take You Everywhere

Set your hair in tight, tight pin curls,

and wear a turban

to the office.

an important meeting on the coast or overseas? Wash and

set your hair, put the turban on, travel elegantly and arrive with a
hairdo that is fresh and shining. If you have a widow's peak, the
turban is for you! A beautiful woman I know pencils in a widow's

Going

to

peak with eyebrow crayon whenever she wears a turban.

Rounded crowns in

Bowler, Derby, Toques

and Pillbox

on those with long, slender faces and swan

styles are best

like necks.

and Western Stetsons are most attracon those with youthful faces and figures, although the Stetson
worn with Western clothes and jeans looks great on more mature
Chin-straps, helmet-type hats

tive

women

with slender bodies.

Big, floppy shapes look beautiful

on most women no matter what

The hat should dominate. Do not fight it with other acKeep all else a mere whisper. Allow nothing to detract from

their age!
cents.

the lovely shape on your head.

Flowered hats, unless they are exceptional as to design, shape and

quality, seldom wear well, and become outdated quickly. However, a
hat with a singular flower detail on a shape whose mass and color
spell good design and craftsmanship is a good investment. You can
always remove the flower if the style has faded.
Balance and harmony of line and color are essential when you
choose a hat. The shape of your face, body and hairstyle determines
the kinds of hats you wear best. Small, short
large hats with floppy or

wide brims, and

women

flat

should avoid

crown. Yet small

women

can wear stunning, brimmed hats, providing the rest of their

ensembles are muted and do not break the longer lines they need.

The bigger the women,

the bigger the hat should be! Nothing looks

on a big, bountiful person than a little "pot" atop her head.
This rule however does not preclude big women from wearing small
cocktail and evening hats, provided they have feathers, boa or other
details which lend width and height, creating an illusion of fuller
sillier

proportions.

Color in hats is to be considered as carefully as shape. The colors

which blend best with winter wardrobes are: camel, grey, rust, burgundy,

medium

blue, winter white

and a

rich, true red.

135

Sketch 46

136

Sketch 46

137

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

The

and summer are: beige, bone,

and soft pastels.
Black, brown, or navy hats, because they do little for the skin, are
best in straws, shiny straws, silks, textured fabrics, woven ribbons,
velvets or furs. Texture, light play and volume enhance dark hats.
Unless the shape is a knockout, or your hair light and skin young,
a little dark hat does nothing for you.
colors most useful for spring

toast, white, off-white

Simple, unadorned hats are timeless and allow you to change the

look with imaginative accessorizing.

The wide-brimmed

hat is wonchange from time to time from

is manageable. When the style

derfully versatile, (sketch 47) Shapes

high crowns to

flat,

but even this

changed recently from a high-crown sailor to a flatter-crowned cartwheel, I tucked in and stitched the high crown of my soft straw to
create a low-crowned cartwheel at no extra cost. When the style
reverts, I will simply snip the stitches, pop the crown up and steam
it.

While the wide-brimmed hat is the easiest to accessorize, different

and interesting effects can be achieved with smaller shapes, by adding
scarves, stickpins, grosgrain or velvet ribbons, a flower, or jewelry

accent.

Beach hats in natural straws are delightful changelings for sumcity and travel wear with the flick of a scarf, belt or jewelry. For
the beach, nothing makes one look more glamorous than a widebrimmed beach hat, scarf and sunglasses. Slipcover a beach hat for a

mer

special effect,

(sketch 48)

Create additional and unique special effects by wearing hats back-

wards and sideways as well as forward! I do this frequently and no

one knows whether I am coming or going! The secret to successful
double-takes, to getting two and three looks for the price of one, lies
in the shape. Two-faced hats should have fairly uniform brims and
crowns with details that lend easily to reversing such as bands,
buckles or bows, although my favorite, which is sketched, has none
of these features. Hats sometimes look better backwards, as

this

does

on me. Can you tell back from front? (sketch 49)

I even had a hat I turned inside out! It was soft, white leather with
a flexible crown lined in black taffeta. When the leather crown became worn and shabby, I turned the hat inside out, removed the
label,

cleaned the glued area with dry cleaning

inner band and wore

tive slash of

138

it

fluid, restitched

the

with the brim turned up, revealing an attrac-

white leather. While there are few hats you can turn

Hats

to

Take You Everywhere

you might someday come across one that works!

you own no other hat, you should have one
.for the day after
the night before. Every woman, no matter what her age, needs a hat
to shadow her face at those times when she'd rather stay in bed.
Never let them wonder how you are
just who you are! Besides,
getting dressed and going out beats giving into fatigue, boredom and
inside out,
If

the I-don't-care-who-sees-me-anyway blues.

Some people

tell

shaggy dog

also have a shaggy hat, a lamb's

stories.

have a shaggy hat story.

wool toque

I've

owned

for 22 years

which still keeps me warm and comfortable on wet, snowy days.

Every time the hat gets wet, it gets curly. Isn't it ironic that the only
thing to curl up on my head would be a hat? On a trip to Fargo,
North Dakota last January to speak for the North Dakota Grain
Dealers,

and

was caught in a heavy snowstorm and my hat curled wetly

I went to the ladies room before my show and began to

tightly!

the hat out, when I noticed a woman looking at me strangely:

"Pardon me," she said, "are you really combing your hat?"

comb

"Certainly,"

Good

smiled, "doesn't everyone?"

looking rain and storm hats are so

much more

attractive

and

functional than babushkas or plastic wraps tied around the head.

and fracture egos! What

He thinks you can
plow up a whole field, what do you need him for! Buy a dashing,
smashing, rain or storm hat and plow into blustery, blowy, stormy
weather with a conquering spirit, knowing you are challenging nature
Babushkas and

plastic

man would open

wraps

flatten hairdos

a storm-tossed door for you?

head on, looking sensational!

HEAD WRAPS
Scarves are lovely in unfriendly weather, or worn on the head in
general, but not as

babushkas ... as headwraps, coordinated with

the total look to add shape, interest

and color to your face and

figure.

THE STORM WRAP

Whenever

it is

(sketch 49)
too breezy or stormy for a hat or hairdo, fold scarf

on head like a babushka, but instead of tying ends

under chin, cross them, bring to back and tie. Pick scarf up slightly
in back and drape over tie so that it forms a snood effect. Turn up
into triangle, place

collar,

put on a pair of dark glasses, belt a polo coat and hop into

a low-slung Jaguar. That's coordination!

139

Sketch 47

Organdy
Ruffle

140

Sketch 47

Add

Stick Pins

Use a

*&
s>

Favorite

Smoke Ring

Bow

Large

Bow

141

Sketch 48

Drape triangular^
scarf over crown.

Criss cross ends,

Tie in back.

Tuck ends under.

142

s*

Sketch 49

Storm Wrap

143

Sketch 50

Twisted Turban

2.
1.

3.

Cross in front.

Cross in back.

Tuck ends.

144

Cross again
to form knot.

Sketch 51

Tube Twist

,.#

3.

Center on
forehead.

5.

Tuck ends
under.

145

Sketch 52

Scarf Cloche

146

Sketch 53

Variations

on Small Scarf Head Wraps

and tuck

Tie

ends under

towards
front.

Basic "small-scarf

head wrap.

Add
scarf.

twisted tube folded

Center on forehead.

Tie in back.

Tuck

in ends.

Bring ends toward

front.

Add

long scarf tube-folded

and twisted

into rope.
Tie

bow

in

front.

147

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

TWISTED SCARF TURBAN

(sketch 50)

worn
and shape of the turban by

In dressy or casual fabric, the twisted scarf turban can be

after-five or

on the beach. Alter the

size

using either square or rectangular scarves or fabric in varying

turban will not be as

If the scarf is smaller, the

square, bring corners together to

them up

in

If

sizes.

you use a

a triangle. Place center fold

back twisting them into tightly rolled

front, tucking them into each other. Tuck

low on forehead, cross ends

ropes, bringing

make

full.

in

the end of the triangle in back over the crossed ropes. If you use

rectangular fabric or scarf, you will have a turban effect with an open

crown.

THE TUBE TWIST

Take two cotton

(sketch 51)

and silk blends are dressier, but will

anchored with a hat pin. Do basic scarf fold (see sketch
scarf chapter). Roll cylinder effect. Twist rolled scarfs. Place
squares. Silk

slip unless

23 in

low on forehead. Tie

SCARF CLOCHES
The two

in back.

Tuck ends

(sketches 52

in.

and 53)

show the effects achieved when using

Sketch number 52: Center a square scarf

versions sketched

smaller and larger scarves.

folded into a triangle low on forehead. Tie in back. Let

tails

hang

them in. Add an additional twisted scarf rope for accent

Sketch number 53: Do the same with a smaller square.

loose or tuck
if

desired.

Achieve different looks with the added tie-on by placing the

up front, to the side, off-center, or in back.

tied

ends

Hats or the delightfully fey headwraps add elegance, dignity and

Do not wear a hat out of a sense of social
obligation or duty, or a scarf to keep your hair in place. Make
headgear a statement, part of your overall, totally coordinated look,
even if it is only a man's visor cap with baggy pants. Also do not
prestige to your image.

make

the mistake of choosing a too-dressy daytime hat or an evening

hat that

is

not dressy enough. Satins, rhinestones and coq feathers

are for after

to spark

five.

MEN

is

a fashion experience, sure

and your outlook ... as well as the man in

LOVE HATS ... and with that hat lady, he'll take

your life.
you everywhere!

148

Exciting head dressing

your look

8
Clothes

For Special Times

In

Your

Life

was perhaps the youngest and one of very few women

company. Even though I
was responsible for a $7,000,000 advertising budget, my salary was
half that paid to my male predecessor. I had left the theater two years
before because I needed a steady income to support my two young
sons. I was dating a possessive, authoritative commercial artist. He
invited me one evening to attend an opening at New York's famed
In 1952

advertising managers of a major national

Copacabana night club. We were to join two other couples. The men
were art directors at major agencies. My friend cautioned me to wear
"something quiet and subdued," because, and I quote, "they are
important clients, and the women are older and less attractive than
you. If they feel uncomfortable because you're younger it won't go
well for
I

me."

acquiesced because even as a young

woman

I felt it

important

was with be comfortable. Although I longed to wear

my dressiest ensemble for what was a gala event, I chose instead a
simple wool suit, soft white blouse and pearls. My makeup was just
a touch of lipstick and eyeshadow. I was so understated I could just
as well have been home, and when we met our companions I wished
I were. I also cried in silent rage for an airbrush and paint pots to
spray my date back to his studio.
The "two older, less attractive" women were stunning! Older yes,
but better! They totally eclipsed and made dowdy a skinny-haired,
that the person

149

'I

pale-faced

young woman dressed

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

in a suit

than to a glamorous evening at the Copa.

more

suitable to the office

One woman had

mane

of white hair which swept back off her forehead in a series of sculp-

Her enormous blue eyes were ringed in purple eyeshadow which matched the dress plunging to her navel. Her false
eyelashes were so long and thick that when she leaned towards her
husband, they dusted the lint from his jacket. The other woman had
tured waves.

blue-black hair to her bare shoulders. She towered over her rotund

companion and wore a strapless red satin sheath which had been
sprayed on her voluptuous body. Her heaving breasts threatened to
split the bodice at any moment. As my date bent to pick his eyeballs
up from the floor, he whispered to me meekly, "I'm sorry!"
There are moments in everyone's life when wearing the wrong
clothes makes you feel incompetent, insecure and wrathful. Special
occasions require clothes of a particular nature, for the way you dress
reveals more about you than an autobiography. When it is a very
special time in your life, wear clothes that not only compliment you
best,

but are utterly perfect for the occasion. Referring to the con-

cepts that are the basis of this

.

COLOR

CLASSICS

book
.

your selection and prevent you

COMFORT

CONTOUR

COORDINATION will enhance

crying ... "I HAVEN'T A THING
.

TO WEAR!"

WEDDINGS
For the lady about to be married, whether it is the first time or the
is the most exciting in her life, and she should
dress from the skin out in the loveliest, most luxurious, most appropriate ensemble she can afford. Despite the tendency by many to
forego marriage, and the incredible increase in divorce, people of all
ages say "I DO" every day, and weddings, formal, informal or offtenth, the occasion

beat, are a delight!

Before you even contemplate buying a wedding dress or accessories,

it is

determine what kind of wedding you want, when and where. If

to be formal or semi-formal with attendents and a number of

go it alone. Consult the experts. Browse through bridal

magazines and bridal shops. The more research you do, the less likely

guests, don't

you are
I

think
If

150

to
is

make

any

costly mistakes. I'm a romantic about

woman

planning to marry, otherwise

you plan to be married

in

weddings as

why would

she?

a simple ceremony, perhaps in a

Clothes for Special Times in Your Life

judge's

office,

choose a

silk suit

or soft flowing short silk dress in

on season). Underneath
you can find. Keep accessories to a minimum; no brash jewelry. You want nothing to conflict
with that lovely band on your third finger, left hand. Good quality
pearls, antique cameos or gold chains may be worn. For a truly
elegant touch, wear a small, silky hat to blend with the suit or dress.
Shoes and handbag should be understated and softly feminine.
When attending such a ceremony, wear a simple suit and silk
blouse in a subdued shade. Do not wear the same color, or a color
similar in tone, to that chosen by the bride. If she is wearing a hat,
you should too, but keep it small and understated. A guest at a
wedding should never compete with the lady being married.
Gardens and other outdoor weddings are traditionally romantic.
Dress to complement the setting in a wedding dress spun fairy like
of chiffon, organdy, voile, batiste, peau de soie or gauze. If you are
white, pastels or a rich color (depending

wear satiny, sensual

lingerie, the prettiest

a young bride, wear ribbons or flowers in your hair, or a wide

brimmed hat trimmed with streamers and a flower accent. If you are
a more mature bride, the softly shaped, wide brim hat without
flowers or ribbons

Attendants

matching

at a

colors.

is

flattering

and appropriate.

garden wedding do not necessarily have to wear

While the design of the dress should be

can be varied, giving a foggy rainbow

similar, solid colors

hazy, Monet-like print can also be used. While white

with first-time brides,

shades.

many

are opting for pastels

is

soft

and

effect.

traditional

and other

soft

Women who have been married previously often select white.

Except for super formal weddings there is a much freer attitude about
color. White has so many tonal variations, one can have a white
wedding without using crisp, pristine, virgin white.

you are a guest at an outdoor wedding, avoid stiff, structured

Choose a soft, flowing dress or suit in light colors or prints.
The dress can be short or long. A summer type hat, small clutch bag
and sandals would complete this airy, lissome look. If you decide to
wear pants (poor choice) make sure they are loose and silky rather
If

clothes.

than tailored.

The formal wedding requires planning and lucky ladies selecting

church or temple ceremonies, followed by a catered dinner or buffet,
have many choices open to them, and many fine bridal shops and
consultants from

whom to seek advice.

Whatever season you choose;

wherever you plan the formal ceremony, your

cost. Establish a

first

consideration

budget immediately and try to stick with

it.

is

If costs

151

"I Haven't a

Thing To Wear!"

must be trimmed, cut down on the number of attendants. Rather

have two less bridesmaids than skimp on your wedding gown and

Cut out the hors d'ouevres before you cut back on your

accessories.

trousseau.
bride's

A trousseau bought wisely becomes the backbone of a new

wardrobe and may represent the only clothes she

will

be able

to afford that year! In selecting a trousseau, except for the lingerie,

do not allow your

fantasies to

sway you from the concepts. COMCLASSICS ... and

CONTOUR
COLOR
FORT
COORDINATION are more important
.

What you buy

your fashion image with your husband.
When invited to a formal wedding, reflect the privilege of your
invitation by wearing an elegant, dressy ensemble. No matter what
time of day a formal wedding is held, it is sure to be a dressy occasion
so wear your best. If you are invited to the reception, a long gown
is preferable. If you attend only the ceremony, a short, dressy suit
now

than ever.

will indelibly establish

or dress

The

is

appropriate.

best advice for a mother-of-the-bride

daughter to

is

to consult with her

warm, loving compromise between what she

wear and what the bride prefers. It is her wedding,

affect a

might want to
her day and if the mother-of-the-bride should choose an outfit her
daughter is unhappy with, there can be no joy for either. Low cut,
body-revealing clothes and bold colors should be avoided by the
mothers of the bride and groom. An elegant, regal look highlights
the prestige of a parent making a dignified, tasteful backdrop for
those getting married.

The clothes should

place, but should not be too stiff or

reflect the season,

time and

uncomfortable looking. All too

I have seen mothers-of-the-bride (and groom) look as if they

have been poured into heavy, brocaded corsets. Chose soft colors,
soft fabrics and float around like a blithe spirit. Your child is getting

often

married, enjoy every moment!

SPECIAL CELEBRATIONS
Award dinners, banquets, bar and bas mitzvahs, christenings,
communions, graduations, reunions, are all very special occasions at
which you want to look glamorous, elegant and feminine.
If you are to receive an award at a black-tie affair, wear a dressy,
dramatic long gown that signifies your stature. If it is not black-tie,
wear the prettiest, softest dinner dress or suit you have. When accepting or presenting awards wear a warm, rich color enhancing to your

152

Clothes for Special Times in Your Life

you will be making a speech, and dais lights can be glaring.

Harsh, dark colors give faces a drawn look. Formal or informal,
presenter or recipient, make sure your dress is not too tight and
face, for

moves

freely, so that

when you

rise

and step

to the

podium,

it

does

not ride up, wrinkle or bind. If you are presenting an award, wear
a subtle, understated garment so as not to detract from the person

being honored. If your outfit

is

too blatant or bold in color, the

audience will look at you rather than the recipient.

Banquets, charity
are
in

when you

your

balls,

opera openings and other black-tie affairs

Wear the most opulent outfits

pull out all the stops!

closet. If

your social calendar

is

heavily laced with functions

requiring formal dress, and your budget

simple,

uncluttered,

full-length

remember that
become dramatic

limited,

is

sheaths

can

changelings. Accessorize with feather boa, satin sashes, silk scarf

wraps, organdy or silk

little

satin jackets,

ruffles, eyelet

cocoon capes and

embroidery, beading, sequins,

all

kinds of jewelry. Haul out

your ingenuity to create a variety of smashing evening clothes.

Religious celebrations such as bar mitzvahs, bas mitzvahs, chris-

and communions require joyous colors to suit the happy

and dresses, pretty hats and lacy mantillas are
lovely and appropriate for church and temple services. If the religious ceremony is followed later in the day or evening by a formal
function, you may wish to change to more formal clothes to enjoy
the fun you are sure to have.
tenings

occasion. Silk suits

Graduations at all levels are a time to rejoice and to bolster the

with your loving presence looking simply splendid.
Whether the graduate is your child, the man you love, or a parent,
they are proud of you and the support you have given them. Your
graduate

pride in their accomplishment enhances their sense of achievement

and your attendance in the

makes the event memorable.

My

loveliest outfit

you can put together

son Jeff still speaks of his high school graduation in 1964.

He

commencement in 1968 because he graduated in January and was off to the West Coast before the ceremonies.
It seems that his high school graduation fills him with the most
nostalgia. The setting and our presence, dressed for the lovely June
day, and the graceful gardens that graced the campus undoubtedly
contribute to this memory.
did not attend his college

He
was

attended a Quaker school in Philadelphia and the ceremony

traditional with a procession of

young women wearing

sashed dresses and carrying red roses, young

men

in

white, red

navy blue

153

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

'I

blazers with the school crest, white trousers, silk ties

tions in their lapels. Bright sunshine highlighted

swelled and they

made

their

way

and red carnathem as music

past the stone-turreted school,

through the gardens and up onto the platform.

If my daughter's graduation from Yale is as formal and traditional
as
I
is

its

opening convocation, it will be another special moment, and

with her what she prefers I wear. When the graduate

will discuss

your daughter, the decision

is

more

delicate.

Daughters do not

enjoy being upstaged by mothers and prefer them in subtle, understated clothes.

When you

what you wear reflects the way you

how you relate to your peers.
Wear what makes you the most comfortable; what makes you feel
the most attractive, and what makes you happiest. Graduation is
indeed a celebration, enjoy every moment, it never comes again.
Reunions are a time when everyone eyes each other closely to see
how well they have handled the years and its changes. Therefore look
as young, vibrant and pretty as you can. Reunions are not necessarily
easy times. Memories tend to be bittersweet. Be relaxed, gay, charming and enjoy the now. Longing for the past may be romantic, but
feel

are the graduate,

about yourself, your school and

now is the best time of your life!

Wear easy going clothes in happy

colors that make you look

movement. Avoid tight, straight
lines that hug your body and emphasize the years. If you have
maintained the leanness of youth, show off your figure in form fitting

youthful, clothes with soft, graceful

designs.

When attending a reunion with your mate, either his reunion

or yours, you and he will be considered as one, and your combined

appearance speaks for both of you. Dress to complement each other.

INFANTICIPA TING
Except for getting married, no time is more special than the nine
months one awaits the birth of their first child. Nor does any time
seem as interminably long. Yet no period in a woman's life fades
faster, and it is as nature intended. If we remembered the discomforts, the bulge of our bodies better, we would probably be less eager
to try it again. I remember my pregnancies only with joy, and I
cherish three healthy, intelligent children

who

are loving, caring

adults.

While she may not think

154

so, the

pregnant

woman is more beautiful

Sketch 54

\7

155

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

when carrying her child than

at

any other time. There

is

a luminosity

about her that writers have recognized and artists have illustrated.
Yet many pregnant women are insecure about their looks and go

through frustrating decisions about what to wear, especially if it is

an important social function.
We have come a long way, and how wonderful it is to see pregnant
women hosting television programs and active in careers. Pregnant
women are no longer "ladies in waiting" but active participants, even
in sports!

Today's pregnant

woman

need clothes which focus on her

freedom, versatility and practicality; transitional fashions which will

be useful not only while pregnant, but later on.

while expecting. Do not buy maternity clothes
you can't possibly get away with it any longer, and even then,
you can sew up drawstring separates to see you through. The drawstring pants, skirts and tunics sketched are easy to make. Later on
wear them to take care of the baby or for sports clothes. When

Do the unexpected

until

accessorized with contemporary accents they can also be

worn

post-

maternity as part of every day wardrobes, (sketch 54)

Pattern companies have detailed directions for making drawstring
clothes

and

their patterns are easy to follow.

separates in cotton, challis,

pretty colors, prints
fully

and

silk,

paisleys.

Buy

Terry cloth and flannel are wonder-

comfortable and can be used after the baby

and beach wear.

When you

tire

fabric for these

synthetic blends, soft wools, in

is

born for jogging

of them, drawstring pants will

fit

your husband. Wear your husband's old shirts with the sleeves rolled
up over the drawstring pants or shorts. After your child has arrived,
wear the drawstring tops belted over skirts and pants.
Full length elastic waist skirts are super as maternity wear! Pull

them up over your breasts and wear as a midi! For example: in

summer, a long, light fabric skirt pulled up over your breasts
becomes a strapless sundress. In cold weather, a long, heavier fabric
skirt worn under a tunic with boots is a fashionable alternative. The
larger you become the shorter the skirt becomes, (sketch 55)
No matter where hemlines are at the time you become pregnant,
wear them longer. Longer hemline dresses are more flattering and
preferable to tight pants and short, flared maternity tops. If you
prefer pants and tops, choose soft fabrics and loose fitting tunics
which come to at least your fingertips and better yet, the knee. As
you come closer to due date, shorter blouses tend to flare out and
shorten at a most unattractive angle.
Artists smocks bought in art supply stores are another way to save

156

Sketch 55

!/'!-,:.',

157

Sketch 56

158

Sketch 56

159

"I Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

spending on more costly and limited maternity clothes. While pregnant, wear them with a flowing tie. Once your figure has returned
those smocks look striking worn with a sash or belt over pants, skirts,
bathing suits or around the house.

Ethnic clothes which are cut

full

and have a yoke are more func-

tional than maternity clothes, because they

have a fashion

life

long

months. Caftans and caftan type shirts from East Indian

shops; dashikis from Africa, and djellabas are not only comfortable

after nine

handsome post-maternity dressing. Headwraps worn with dashikis, caftans and other clothes look fantastic.
They bring the eye up from the body. Any accessory which focuses
on a mother-to-be's radiant face and eyes makes for a beautiful look.
Soft flowing cotton gauze gowns are ideal during summer pregnancies. They are lovely later on when worn with wide Obi sashes
while pregnant, they are

or belted with drapery rope.

Caftans, ethnic clothes and drawstring clothes spun from supple

and accessories,
wear that does not shout "maternity dress."
Lee Wydra, the talented artist whose sketches illustrate this book,
can, with the adroit use of color, texture

spool

silk

make

exciting evening

is

also a well

known

designer of onstage clothes for entertainers,

especially rock groups.

have asked Lee to include some of the

women who perform while pregnant.
to adapt these ideas for your own use.

dressy designs she creates for

Perhaps you would

like

(sketch 56)

There are certain maternity essentials pregnant women must have.

These are: sturdy, supportive shoes with low to medium heels. Too
low or too high a heel can cause backaches. You will want to do a
good deal of walking while pregnant, and whatever you spend on
good leather shoes is an important investment. Since your feet will
swell it may be necessary for you to buy another pair in a larger size
later on. Avoid man-made materials as they tend to make the feet
perspire.

Hosiery which does not bind or constrict your circulation

is

essen-

and support panty hose may be your answer during the early
months. As you grow, switch to support stockings and a well made
undergarment. If your back begins to ache, buy a well fitting and
comfortable maternity foundation. Better to have the support and
comfort of what you might think is an unattractive garment than to
have pain and discomfort distort your face and movements.
Do not skimp on well made, supportive brassieres. Your breasts
tial,

160

Clothes for Special Times in Your Life

and become

will swell

painful,

and a good

fitting brassiere will

not

shape your breasts more attractively

under clothes. When you are pregnant do not go bra-less even if you
can. Breasts need support particularly at this time. Choose a wider
only relieve discomfort,

it

will

if you are full bosomed, and select one or two bras

trimmed with lace to give you a sensuous, feminine feeling.
Buy two nursing brassieres as you come closer to delivery, so that
you can take them to the hospital. I hope you plan on nursing your
child, because, a good start is your second greatest gift. Breast feed-

shoulder strap
that are

ing

is

not only the healthiest

way

to raise a child,

the mother. Nursing returns your uterus to normal

fulfills

the natural function of the breasts.

Even

if

it is

healthy for

more quickly and

you can nurse

for

be beneficial to the baby and to you.

Hopefully you will continue to breast feed for a year or more.

only a short time,

will

it

Another necessity while pregnant is a liquid, lissome nightgown

and robe, the laciest you can afford. Feeling desireable soothes the
pregnant

woman and

slipping into bed scented

and silkened

fills

her

with a warm, wonderful feeling that gentles the child within.

When you

pack your suitcase for the hospital do not take a form

know how anxious you are to see your waistline again,
but your body will not return to normal that quickly. Choose something that is eased, loose and pretty, with a bodice that opens from
the front so that it will be easy for you to nurse. Along with your
toiletries, cosmetics, and other personal belongings, take an extravafitting dress. I

gent,

maribou trimmed

satin

bed jacket for the

sensual enjoyment of seeing a

flat

tummy

utter,

complete, sheer

again!

CLOTHES AND DIETS

How

do you dress during the countdown between the beginning

its ultimate end! What do you do in the meantime?
Strategy is needed to help keep you on the diet and fun to be with
at the same time.
Nothing lifts one's spirits more and musters emotional support
than new clothes. Therefore do not limit buying clothes while dieting.
of a diet and

Buy something smashing, something splendid,

and smaller in size. To be realistic, do not buy anything
which you may be stuck with if your discipline disappears. Instead
buy separates!
Instead, go all out!

expensive

The

best diets take time.

Your

weight, like the fog in Carl Sand-

161

'I

burg's

poem, "creeps up on

little

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

cat feet." Like fog, weight needs to

be burned off slowly, with a consistent eating program that

is

safe

and sensible. Handsome, easy to care for, economical separates will

work with you over the weeks and months it takes to get into shape.
Select transitional, loosely cut styles in casual and dressy fabrics
such as: A-line or lightly gathered skirts which can easily be altered
later on to fit a smaller waistline; jackets which can be worn open
while you are heavier and buttoned when you become slim.
skirts and pants that may be snug,
open under overblouses and jackets. No one knows the top
is unbuttoned and you can breathe with ease, anticipating the day
when it can be secured and you run your fingers around the waistband. Skirts and pants with elastic tops are figure- wise, expanding as
needed. Wear them belted when you become slender enough to tuck
shirts inside. Loose jackets can also be belted when you reach your

During the "takeoff," wear new

slightly

goal.

Dress up while dieting! Try on new makeup, new hairstyles! Feelyou sustain momentum towards a lovelier you!

ing attractive helps

Accessories are the answer during this transitory period.

ment

to the clothes

you have with new

jewelry, a rakish hat, a splendid handbag, sexy shoes,

some

belt.

Yes, a

belt,

Add excite-

silk scarves, shawls, vests,

the accessory which shouts

Later on, these wise purchases add spice to the

new

and a hand-

SLIMNESS!
clothes your

smaller size demands.

you plan to lose a great deal of weight, choose shoes knowing

become smaller with weight loss. Sandals are best
because straps can be adjusted for a slimmer foot, and the openness
If

that foot sizes

will better

accommodate your new

size.

Color too, enhances the slimdown period. Use

brighter colors

when

dieting rather than dark,

soft

tones of

somber shades.

Dusky, muted, pretty colors are kinder and psychologically soothing. Lighter shades also give you more honest readings of weight loss

and your changing shape than darker, slimming colors.

Every day is a special time in your life. A time when anything can
happen! Be ready for it! Enjoy its ever changing rhythms, its opportunities, by creating looks that keep pace with new experiences, with

new outlooks.

162

9
The Quality Touch

make

love on royal blue,

The feel, the touch,
the "hand," the way it sits on your skin. Fabric and color create a
mood influencing the way you feel about yourself. The variety of

Can you imagine what

silk velvet sheets?

fabrics

it

must

feel like to

That's what fabric

and colors

in clothes enables

is all

you

about.

to be

enjoying the eclecticism of today's varying

The equestrian
differently than if

Unfair though

whipcords performs differently

in nattily tailored

than the casual rider in chaps.

you were

it

may

be,

If

many different people,

lifestyles.

you disco

in

denim you swing

in satin.

when you walk

into a

room, the quality

of the clothes you wear indelibly establishes your status. Like

it

or

you are judged by what you wear and the impression you create
results in the way you are treated.
The woman waltzing into the opera in an emerald green silk velvet
cape cascading from her shoulders could probably hold up the box
office and the guard at the door would open it for her, tipping his
not,

On the other hand, even a Vanderbilt

persona non grata at River House.

hat as she leaves with the loot.

in jeans is

Quality in fabrics and tailoring establishes "a touch of class"

which instills confidence in you and the people with whom you
communicate. When I went apartment hunting in Miami to find a
hideaway so that I could finish this book, I happened to be wearing
a favorite outfit suitable for the

balmy December weather, a navy

163

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

blue wool Stanley Blacker blazer, white cotton pants, white silk shirt
and a silk scarf in tones of grey, orange and blue. I had seen a
complex I thought would be ideal. It was small, quiet, secluded, on
the water, and well maintained. While other buildings on the Island
had vacancy signs, this did not. I traipsed the Island from one end
to the other and could not find anything I liked. At 5:30 I was about
to give up,
I

when

decided to inquire at the building

my

wanted.

"For me," I laughed.

Then began a series of
children,

how many

The upshot was

He

how long"

"Do you

have animals,

etc. etc.

that he did indeed have an available apartment,

me

rented

selective,

he never

a lovely, furnished apartment, at a rent

had investigated that day. I am certain that had

and T-shirts, I would have gotten nowhere
man who takes pride in the meticulous manner in which he

lower than others

been dressed

with this

asked.

smiled.

interrogations

people,

steely eyes penetrating.

and because the complex was small and he was

advertised.

As

car, a

"Would you have a vacancy," I

"For whom?" he continued, his

man approached me.

"Could you please tell me who the manager might be?"
"I am," he replied, carefully looking me up and down.

emerged from

in jeans

manages the property entrusted to him.

You know how confident you are when your clothes are "right"
for the occasion; when they make you feel vital, beautiful, on top of
it

It is

all!

warm, comforting sensation and

pleasing smiles and glances that

are doing,

you do

it

better

is

reflected in the

come your way. No matter what you

when what you wear makes you

good

feel

about yourself.

And

yet, inflation

and escalating costs makes

expect that the average

with a

make

it

unrealistic to

woman can afford to always buy the best, but

knowledge, she can buy the very best she can afford and
look smashing on her! Balancing your needs with your

little
it

checkbook

is

going to require resourcefulness, discipline and the

determination to forego clothes that cry,

CHEAP! CHEAP!

Ready-to-wear manufacturers, as everyone else caught in the inflation spiral, have taken to shortcuts; subtle ways in which to save by
cutting back on quality in fabrics and tailoring. Sometimes almost
invisible,

sometimes blatant, these quality shortcuts have become

prevalent and unless you do your

own

sewing,

it

is difficult

to be

assured of top notch quality at a price you can afford. While you

164

may

The Quality Touch

be adept with the needle, treadling your
little

home and

career

may

leave

time for the Singer and you need clothes that are fashionable

and worth their cost.

That is why I wish to awaken your sensitivity to the sorcery of
fabric, and those little tailoring touches which help determine if you
are getting good value for your money.
First off, forget about fussiness and cluttery clothes that become
easily outdated. If you want the ruffled look, take the Priscillas off
your kitchen window and resew the

ruffles into collars

and

cuffs.

Simple, elegant lines in good quality fabrics and tailoring transcend

design changes and keep you looking in tune with current trends.

And,

for those with a true spirit of adventure,

shopping

in nontra-

ditional areas such as second

hand

stores, thrift shops, auctions,

garage sales and factory outlets

may

yield exciting buys at low cost.

No

matter where you shop, however,

tailoring,

fit,

and

know what

to look for in

fabrics!

TAILORING
Quality touches are:

GEXEROUS SEAMS AXD HEMS:

If seams and hems are tacky,

Choose something else. Skimpy
seams are a npoff. I turn garments inside out and check stitching,
especially in armholes. Armhole seams should be slashed to prevent

scant and fraying,

it's

a bad buy.

puckering and ripping.

MATCHED SEAMS:

Patterns, plaids and stripes should look like

Marines on Dress Parade! Every line perfect. If seams at shoulders,
back, sides and inseams do not match, it might as well rain on your

parade.

STITCHING:
it

collars

and

DARTS:
aim
are

If the article is top-stitched

or stitching

is

a finished

should be even, unbroken, especially on pockets,

detail,

If

is off!

cuffs,

lapels.

your bosom

Make

is

above or below the bodice dart, someone's

sure darts are in the right place for your figure and

sewn evenly and

neatly.

165

WearV

"I Haven't a Thing To

SHOULDERS:

Lips can pucker, but never shoulders (as can happen

cheap polyester construction). Natural or padded shoulders
should sit smoothly right on your bones. If they do not, alteration
is necessary and since re-fitting shoulders is complicated and expen-

in

sive, give ill-fitting

SLEEVES:

tops the cold shoulder.

armholes should be comfortable, not too

under arms. Dolman and raglan sleeves are special.

Set-in, fitted

tight or tense

fit from back as well as front and examine inside stitching.

elbow length sleeves see if inside hems have sufficient fabric so
that you can turn it up a bit if you wish. Full length sleeves are to
end at wrist. Too short or too long a full length sleeve ruins the line.

Check

On

HEMLINES: Skimpy hemlines leave little room for a change of pace

or a change of mind. Fabric also alters hemlines by creating an

Heavy, dark color hems look longer, therefore wear

optical illusion.

them

shorter. Fabrics that float, such as chiffons, organzas

light colored lightweights

Sam who made

look shorter.

Wear them

the pants too long (or too short) do you

certain that full-length pants cover your instep

and other

longer. Don't let

Make

in.

and beware of short

The back can be slightly longer. If a particular pant is

when you wear a higher heel, wearing the same color
hose and shoes as the pants is perfect camouflage. Wear shoes with
the type of heel you wear most frequently when you shop for pants.
pantlegs.

slightly shorter

If you intend to

along

wear dress pants with

ultra high heels, take the shoes

when shopping.

LININGS: The purpose

of a lining

is

to assure a

take stress off the outer garment so that

and jackets are a plus

synthetics do not hold
should
is

fit

it

smooth

lasts longer.

fit

and

Lined

to

skirts

factor, especially with synthetic fabrics, for

their

shape as well as natural

fibers.

Linings

with ease, particularly in sleeves and shoulders. If the skirt

half-lined,

check rear to see

if

half lining can be seen through

fabric.

ZIPPERS: Beware of cheap

the garment and

it is

zippers, they will

do you

out! If you like

otherwise a good buy, replace a poor zipper

more secure. I recently purchased white

They were on sale at a 50% discount.
I was suprised at the incongruity of the construction. The seams were
all smartly finished; the pockets roomy and well made with piping
at points of stress, but the zipper came apart as I was trying on the
with one that

cotton slacks

166

is

stronger and

made

in India.

The Quality Touch

pants.

The

saleslady curtly said, 'That's

why we've marked

these

down, none of the zippers are any good." I did not argue, the pants
were 100% cotton and cut in a classic, timeless design. I bought them
and replaced the zipper.

BUTTONHOLES:
check seaming.

Should be strong and evenly stitched.

Make

sure

it

is

If

bound,

even.

BUTTONS

on coats and suits made of heavier fabrics should have

round stems. Better quality clothes will have buttons made of bone,
wood or mother-of-pearl and often extra buttons will be sewn into
a seam or attached in a plastic packet. Remove any loose buttons
before the garment is wrapped. Less expensive clothes have plastic
buttons and changing buttons on a low cost garment upgrades its
look.

While a high school student

at

Burke Mountain Academy

in

Vermont, training to be a ski racer, my daughter saved money on

clothes by shopping at a fantastic thrift shop called, "The Whippletree." Her most amazing find was a beautiful burgundy wool coat
which she bought for 25^, that's right, twenty-five-cents!. The coat
was soiled but it had lovely classic lines; Princess style with set-in
sleeves and a Peter Pan collar. It was lined in burgundy satin and
the stitching, lining, seams and fabric all reflected the coat's past
glory. We sent it to the best cleaner in town and bought natural wood
buttons in a warm brown shade. When finished the coat had cost a
total of $10.25 It still looks as good as new and this past fall I clipped
a Lord and Taylor ad and sent it to my daughter at Yale. The coat in
the ad duplicated her find, line for line. It was on sale for $248.00!
!

you want the most

If

not

mean you have

for

your money, keep it simple. This does

buy "sensible," somber clothes that

to always

On the contrary if you select exciting, good

you can have a wonderfully put together look, beadd sensuality, shape, color and texture, making you

offer little excitement.

quality fabrics,

cause fabrics
feel lovely!

FABRICS
I

am

little

a pack rat, collecting, stashing for "someday" projects. The

weekend ski cabin I now live in permanently is an accordian,

167

'I

ever expanding to contain

Jonathan, a sculptor and

my

artist

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

"finds."

One

day,

my

middle son,

and a collector of wood, marble and

own needs, yelped as he waded through a pile of books,

magazines and manuscripts, "Mom, if I asked you for an elephant
"
tusk you'd say
'what size, four foot or eight?'
metal for his

Some collect glass,

others antiques.

My passions are books, bottles,

Over the years I have built an eclectic collecof which I will use "someday." Buying fabric is

paintings and fabrics.

tion of fabrics, all

Many of my purchases made years ago, especially

100% cottons and the silk embroideries are more
today than when I first bought them, many as remnants.

a wise investment.
the wools,

valuable

Even

silks,

you do not sew you can have your clothes custom-made. I

travels many young women who have set up shop in their
homes and have become skillful couturiers offering fine craftsmanship and sometimes original designs for very little more than
what you pay for ready-to-wear.
There's been no time these past few years to make my show dresses
and the last two were sewn by young women in small, out-of-the-way
communities in rural Pennsylvania. When you travel, browse for
if

find in

my

fabrics in off-the-beaten-track-shops, as well as the big, elegant

houses.

Head

for the sale

and remnant counters

first.

You

will find

unique patterns, blends and textures in foreign countries and

various sectors of the United States where

in

more and more, young

people are weaving, hand-painting and designing fabrics as an art

form.

The

feel, the "hand" of a fabric and the way it moves

what should determine your choice. No matter the

touch, the

on your body

is

design, the price, if it does not feel comfortable, pass. Caress fabric
between your fingers and hold it to your face. You can actually feel
cheap fabric.

While synthetics work best for

ral fibers.

The warmth of wool,

softness of silk

on

onstage, offstage

prefer natu-

my skin are sensations that are delightful.

natural fibers look

It

me

the comfort of cotton and the slinking

more luxurious and hold

Besides,

their shape better.

takes time to learn about fabrics; their construction, quality,

characteristics

and wearing

ability.

Let labels guide you as you learn,

and how to
wash the washables. Good quality fabric houses guard their reputations and a well known label is your best assurance. Read all labels
and follow instructions for care.
for labels spell out the fiber contents, the dry-cleanables

168

The Quality Touch

THE NATURAL FIBERS

COTTON:
Hardy,

Just as

versatile,

ously absorbent,

technology

it

it is

LOVE NEW YORK

...

the most comfortable of

LOVE COTTON!

all fabrics.

Marvel-

and with new

feels sensational against the skin

it

can be color-fast, pre-shrunk, wrinkle-resistant and

for 100% cotton and also enjoy the many

wash and wear. Look

cotton blends. Strong, pliable and lustrous, cotton

year round.

almost as

It is

many

not relegated to

summer and

is

fashionable

resort wear.

varieties of cottons as there are colors.

all

There are

Some

cottons

are so handsomely finished, they are used for evening wear. Familiarize yourself

with

that

all

is

available

and check

labels for care.

LINEN: Produced from flax (Belgium has the finest flax plants),
fine quality linens come from Ireland where it has been manu-

most

factured since the 8th century! Linen goes back even further, dating
is legendary and proof of its
amazing durability are the linen burial shrouds found on mummified
remains. Linen actually improves with age and is wonderfully washable, cool and absorbent. It does have drawbacks as well as being

to prehistoric times. Egyptian linen

very expensive.

The expense can be amortized however,

as linen outlasts

most

other fabrics and in table linens particularly, linen represents an

investment and heritage which can be passed on to succeeding generations. Its

tendency to wrinkle

is

another matter, and despite crease-

resistent treatment, linen wrinkles

present a problem

when

traveling.

the rumpled, wrinkled look with

am

uncomfortable

in the

table, crisply ironed

Linen

is

and

50%

have seen others carry off

aplomb and

unpressed look.

elegance,

prefer

my

personally

linen

on the

shining.

labeled as to content

contain at least

and requires ironing which can

While

and anything sold as "linen" must

pure linen with

all

other fibers listed in order

5%, they are listed as

"other fibers" or "miscellaneous fibers." Fabric technology is so
advanced, many fabrics can look like linen and not contain any linen.
of weight. If the other contents are less than

It

to

might have a linen finish, but is not linen, therefore check labels
make sure you are getting what you are paying for!

169

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

SILK: Those crafty little earthworms industriously spinning silken

threads have no idea of how ensnared I am by their spun magic! How
I adore silk! It is a passion with me, and represents my most extravaits many exquisite variations, silk has
many fantastic qualities that whatever you spend, it is worth it!
One splendid silk shirt or dress is worth dozens of synthetics. The

gent clothing expenditures. In

so

memorable, for

colors in silk are pure, vivid,

factors of 38 degrees

silk

takes dye better

who has often been out in wind chill

below zero, I know how well closely woven silk

than any other fabric.

As a

skier

I have been telling audiences for

keep my hands and feet warm while skiing. I tie
a silk square doubling it around the back of my neck and wear it
under my turtleneck cotton shirt. The back of the neck is the region
through which nerves transmit messages to the brain, and when my
neck is warm, my hands and feet stay warm. I have experimented
enough to know that it works for me ... try it for yourself.

generates heat against the body.

way

years of the

Silk

is

also cool in

on a hot day.

ics

summer. There are lightweight,

comfortably cool, so

silks that are

Silk

humidity, you will

and incredibly

is

loosely

woven

much better than wearing synthet-

absorbent and no matter the heat or the

Although

feel dry.

delicate, silk, like a

it

looks fragile, incandescent

woman,

is

STRONG

and wears

wonderfully.

The many

textures available in silk stem from the

way

the different

yarns are manufactured and the two different types of earthworms

who produce their sorcery. Wild silkworms spin a coarser thread and
the fabric is know as tussah. Wild silk has a hard, rough, nubby
texture, a different color

reeled silk,
as

many

which

and

is less

lustrous than cultivated, finely

shiny smooth. Since raw silk does not go through

refining processes as reeled silk,

particularly

good

conceivable part

cocoon which
silk

is

is

is

quality for suits.

In

it is

expensive. It has a
manufacturing every

less

silk

used, including the tangled fibers from outside the

made into spun silk. More like cotton than

has a fuzzy quality and

silk,

not as strong or shiny, but

is

spun

it is

less

expensive.

Pure silk on a label means there is no artificial weighting, which is

a manufacturing process that makes silk feel heavier, but lessens its
wearing abilities.
Silk garments should not fit too snugly, because if let out, stitches
will show. While I have a friend who regularly hand washes his silk
shirts,

and

wash

all

of

professionally dry cleaned,

170

my

silk scarves,

and

it

is

silk labels state,

best to have silk

"dry clean only."

The Quality Touch

I

was

in a dressing

room

recently

and overheard the woman

next cubicle. "I love this dress," she exclaimed, "but

four dollars to clean

me

my

silk shirts

now, and

this will

am

in the

paying

probably cost

ten."

The cost of caring for silk cannot be denied. I am more careful

when I wear silk and I grimace when I pay the cleaning bills, but
when I feel its silken warmth or coolness, its sensualness against my
skin, cost

and care

foolishly fade.

WOOL: How amazing wool is. Warm, water repellent and versatile,
wool comes in many varieties such as: alpaca, cashmere, mohair and
vicuna, which are sheared from various species of goats. Camel's
hair, another fine wool product, is from the hardy desert beast. Obtained through a process of bleaching, spinning and weaving, wool
is resilient and holds its shape beautifully. "Reprocessed wool" is
made

of used wools which have been cleaned and rewoven into

new

warm

than

cloth. It

is

less expensive,

somewhat

less resilient

and

less

virgin wool.

Wool

content and the precentages of wool in blends are clearly

many different weights and textures, check

Acquaint yourself with wool manufacturers by noting their
ads and reading the fashion pages.
Weights and textures in wool give them special qualities for spelabeled. Since there are
labels.

is more suitable for dresses than

heavy tweeds are better for jackets and coats. Sheer wool can
be worn year round, while the heavier weights would be too warm
for summer. Knitted wools drape beautifully, offering versatility and
comfort at a lower cost than woven wool. Knits too, come in different
weights and quality. Fold knitted wools over a well padded hanger
or in a drawer rather than hang them from the shoulder.
Worsteds and gabardines are stout, long wearing wools which
never "seat-out" and seldom wear out; that is whyjnost uniforms are
made of gabardines and worsteds. Their only drawback is their

cific

garments: sheer wool crepe

suits;

tendency to shine after extensive wear.

Tweeds, too, come

in

many

weights and even the loosely

woven

kind have a rock-ribbed strength that wears as well as the hardy

who weave them. A tweed stormcoat I purchased in

Dublin more than seven years ago is still the handiest and most
handsome bad weather coat in my wardrobe. I doubt that it will ever
Scots and Irish

wear

out,

and

its

classic line

has weathered hemline and design

changes.

171

"/ Haven't a Thing To

RA YON AND ACETATE:

Wear!"

Fabrics of special quality which are being

used extensively in fashion, rayons, rayon blends, and acetates were

considered the first "synthetics." They are not true synthetics because they are vegetable in origin, manufactured from cellulose fibers

which come from wood pulp and cotton. Thus they have many
advantages of the natural fibers such as breatheability, soft texture,

good "hand" as well as easy care and maintenance. Rayon breathes

better than acetate because it is derived only from a vegetable base.
Acetate which has been combined with acetic acid still breathes better
than purely chemical based, synthetic fabrics. Rayons and acetates
are

more comfortable

to

SYNTHETICS: Man's

wear than true

synthetics.

incredible contribution to fashion, testtube

fabrics simulate the best qualities of natural fibers at the lowest

possible cost
tages such as

and with an ease of maintenance which offers advanwash and wear, permanent press, soil, shrinkage and

fading resistance.
Synthetics have drawbacks in that they do not breathe, which
makes them uncomfortable. They also create static electricity and
pull.

Some

synthetics lose their shape, sagging eventually at knees,

elbows and
those

who

seats.

For

practicality's sake, synthetics are a

travel, to those

on a budget and

to those

who

boon

to

refuse to

plug in an iron.

The almost

limitless variety

of synthetics and synthetic-natural

many grades and qualities may confuse

many manufacturers who have individual

fiber blends, in their

especially with so

you,
pro-

and labels. Remembering the three major synthetics by their

generic names will make it easier for you to know what the fabric
cesses

is

intended to do:

ACRYLIC

NYLON

resembles wool

resembles

POLYESTER

silk

resembles cotton

Both the generic term and the manufacturer's trade name for the
on the label as well as instructions for its care. Synthetics are no longer confined to tacky type
outfits. Well known designers are creating costly, opulent clothes
particular fiber or blend will appear

from synthetic

fabrics.

This brief introduction into the complex

fabrics

172

is

field

of tailoring,

fit

and

intended only as a cursory glance, to give you an idea of

The Quality Touch

what goes into the making of the clothes you wear and what
for

when

While

to look

buying.

and design are important, fabric establishes the quality

room in a pure silk, wool or linen ensemble makes
a different statement than entering in polyester, but to save money,
you can combine the best of low cost fabric with natural fibers, and
line

touch. Entering a

still look elegant. For comfort, wear natural fibers close to the skin
and use synthetics as toppers. Blends are best for office and travel
clothes because they are less costly than the naturals and do not

require special care.

Being aware of fabric,

and

your clothes a subtle

image of which you will be proud.
Even an ordinary person becomes someone special in an ensemble
which makes them feel splendid!
touch of

fit

tailoring gives

class, creating a fashion

173

10
The Finishing Touch

was

in

Las Vegas appearing for the National Automobile Dealers

my show, I meandered through the vast conven-

Association. After
tion hall in

which hundreds of brightly

lit

and colorful booths offered

As I passed an
computers the young woman on duty beckoned to me.
"Hi," she smiled. "I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed
your show, and how helpful it has been to me. As you can see I am
imprisoned in the corporate uniform." She indicated the grey blazer
and skirt she was wearing. "Tomorrow I intend to spice it up and
change my makeup too."
products and services for the automotive industry.

exhibit of

We chatted animatedly and I was pleased to learn that her company had arranged schedules so that the women executives attending
the meeting would have time to catch my show.
This particular young woman looked as drab as a computer readout. While her suit was handsomely tailored; she wore the face she
woke up with, and her hair looked as if she hated it. What she needed
desperately was a. finishing touch, a hairdo and makeup which would
add the pizzazz that sparks a warm-colorful-got-it-all-together-look.
There

is

nothing wrong with wearing no makeup provided one has

exquisite skin, vivid coloring with well defined eyebrows

and thick

eyelashes which lend contrast and shape to the face. If one

with a

less

to be non-existent, then

174

is

pale

than perfect skin, and eyebrows and lashes so bland as

wearing no makeup

in public is like not

The Finishing Touch

wearing clothes. You look naked. There is a great deal of difference
between a natural look, artfully conceived through deft makeup
magic, and unknowing, uncaring paleness.

To
new

feminine, beautiful and fashionable, know what is

makeup and hairdo trends and translate them as you do
into your own personal language. Many women are so aware

feel utterly

in

clothes

of what the latest styles are in clothes, yet so chained by habit to

outdated faces and hairstyles, they downgrade the splendid new

have bought. I know a woman who still makes up and

like Bette Davis did in her early movies. If Bette Davis
no longer looks like Bette Davis did in 1938, why should anyone else?
Cosmetics and hairstyles change as often as clothes. When new
collections are shown, designers check the total look on the models
outfits they

wears her hair

introducing their line and carefully coordinate hairstyles,

makeup

colors and textures.

Today's hairstyles and makeup are

looking.

They

suit

our action

lives.

eclectic, realistic

There

is

and natural

no longer one "face"

to

There are many "faces" for the many faceted

lives we live, our moods and our clothes. If we do not wear one outfit,
why should we wear one "face?" My country face is well scrubbed

be worn at

with

little

all

times.

makeup

shadow and

brown brows, eyeis more carefully

is more vivid, with

other than moisturizer; barely

My in-town
shadow. My show

light lip gloss.

sculpted with color and

dramatic, defined highlights that

and play against the colors

become

face

face

diffused under stage lights

use, enabling audiences to see

my

expressions even at great distance.

Dress your face and hair as you do your body; to suit the color
and textures of your clothes, the time and place in which you wear
them, and the mood you wish to create. To put your best face
forward, begin with the skin.

THE SKIN
Dermatologists and beauty experts all agree that a consistent program of cleansing, toning and moisturizing is essential in an environment of chemicals, pollutants, central heat and air conditioning. To
be a fresh-faced, clear-skinned soap and water beauty is increasingly
difficult in

Step one

is

our complicated world.

to identify

your skin type:

175

"/ Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

Ideal skin: smooth, generally poreless and flawless.

Dry

skin: feels tight,

flaky,

is

somewhat ashy, but

poreless.

Oily skin: enlarged pores, prone to blemishes and eruptions.

Combination skin: the most

on forehead, nose and chin.

The type of
healthy, rosy,

appearance.

common

skin to strive for

and has

is

with a "T-zone" of oily areas

an ideal complexion which looks

amount of oil and a poreless

just the right

Your genes and hormonal makeup establish

have, but good nutrition and health habits improve

Even

it

the skin

you

immeasurably.

you have been lucky enough to have inherited beautiful skin,

junk foods, smoking, alcohol, drugs, excessive stress, and
emotional upsets will soon etch your face with lines and discolorations. We discuss a health program in the WINNING part of this
if

a diet of

book which
this

will help build a healthy

chapter

we

deal with the best

the outside, and

The

ideal skin

how
is

to use

complexion from the inside. In

to care for your skin from

ways

makeup

techniques.

in a state of equilibrium. It is neither too

dry nor

you have such a skin you have many

options. You can wear all different kinds of makeup, or you can be
totally natural. Anything goes. The rest have to be content with
too

oily. It

looks fantastic and

if

trying to achieve the look of an ideal skin.

The

rules are simple:

To have
To keep
foods, rest

To keep

beautiful skin; keep

skin bright

and

is

it

and clean!
"R's"
really good

bright, tight

as basic as the three

relaxation.

skin tight; lightly exercise facial muscles. (See exercise

chapter.)

To keep skin clean; cleanse, hydrate, tone and moisturize morning

and evening, and anytime after you have been outdoors. Cool or
tepid water nourishes the skin with moisture, so hydrate your face

frequently during the day.

CLEANSING
Ideal skin: Cleanse with pure soaps such as Ivory, Dove, Aveeno
Bar, Regular Palmolive and

176

lukewarm water. Rinse,

rinse, rinse

with

The Finishing Touch

tepid water (at least 30 splashes). If

soluable creams. If using an

washcloth and

Dry

finish

oil

you prefer cream, use the water

based cream, remove with moist

with a gentle toner or freshener.

Avoid soaps and use water soluable creams or cleaners

skin:

such as the imitation, super-fatted soaps: Lowila Cake, Basis and

Oilatum, or Dove which is milder, less fatty and will not cause
drying. Use no skin toners or fresheners.

Dry

water.

Beware too hot or too cold

skin requires gentle pampering.

Do

not

extremes in temperature or with rough treatment.

irritate

Dry

it

with

face gently.

Pat rather than rub.

do not handle excessive oil well. They tend

Aging skins develop a natural tolerance for
oil and youthful conditions generally improve with maturity. The
more you wash an oily skin the better! Facial saunas which steam
clean are excellent. Wash at least three times a day with Ivory,
Neutrogena for Oily Skin or with specially formulated soaps for oily

Young

Oily skin:

skins

to break out with acne.

problems. Degrease as

much

as possible. If excessively oily, soak a

cotton ball with water and add astringent.

toners, as they are called,

degrease.

Some

astringents or

have an alcohol base which helps to

Use sparingly to avoid over-drying.

Combination skin: Steam the oily "T-zone" (chin, nose and forewarm terry cloth. Wash with gentle soap and lukewarm
water. Rinse well with cool water. Close nose and chin pores with
ice-cube wrapped in cloth. Use a toner or freshener on oily "T-zone."
Use a water soluable cream or gentle cleanser on cheeks. Do not use
head) with

toners or fresheners where skin

If you are too tired after a long

fight

It is

it!

worth the

battle.

is

dry.

day or evening to cleanse your

face,

Skins stay youthful and beautiful with

Always cleanse and moisturize before you go to

often you cleanse, the better your skin will look.
Many actresses and those whose careers make them particularly

consistent care.

The more

sleep.

visible

maintain youthful skins for a long time, simply because they

cleanse

and moisturize more often than the average woman. In the

is gently massaged which helps
toned and tightened.

cleaning and moisturizing, the skin

keep

it

Cleanse, moisturize and apply

makeup with upward and outward

177

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

"down" lines. Think happy thoughts

and notice how your face lifts. Be gentle while

strokes. This helps prevent

while you do

this,

The

cleaning around the eyes.

skin there

is

thinner than elsewhere

and should never be rubbed.

CLEANSING MASKS
Masks are deep cleansing, pulling surface impurities from the skin,
it, and making you feel fresh and dewy. Make masks
part of a weekly, deep cleansing routine. Put them on in the tub

conditioning

where you can relax in tepid, perfumed water, regenerating your

face, and relaxing your mind and body. Take a portable radio into
the bathroom. Turn on the softest, sweetest music you can find. Sink
into water silkened with bath oil, while your face sheds its dead cells.
Many good commercial masks are sold and you can experiment with
an enormous variety. But

Dry

if you

wish to save money, make your own.

Use mayonnaise,

skin mask:

cleaner sold in drug stores),

Fuller's earth (a

powdered

egg yolk. Mix 4 teaspoons

clay

oil rich

mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon Fuller's earth. Make a paste. Cleanse

your face first as you normally do. If you have super dry skin, or your
skin is mature, brush a thin layer of pure egg yolk on before you
apply the mask. Apply mask and leave on face for 10 minutes. Rinse
gently with

lukewarm water. Rinse

finally with cool

water

(at least

30

splashes).

Oily skin mask:

Use honey,

Mix

plain yogurt, Fuller's earth, mint extract,

teaspoon honey, Vi cup yogurt, 1 tablespoon Fuller's earth, 2 drops mint extract and a pinch of bicarbonate
of soda. Blend well into smooth paste. Apply mask to clean face. The
yogurt softens the skin, the Fuller's earth and honey pull top layer

bicarbonate of soda.

impurities from

it.

Close your eyes, relax for 10 minutes. Rinse off

mask with lukewarm

water, then cool (at least 30 splashes).

Almond Meal scrub:

If you do not take time to make "masking" a

weekly routine, substitute Almond Meal scrubs. Do not use on dry
skins. You can either make a mask of almond meal and leave it on
for 10 minutes, or you can gently massage the almond meal into your

skin

and remove

it

with a

warm

terry cloth

and cool water

rinse.

There are a number of different types of Almond Meal scrubs, some

178

The Finishing Touch

made with honey. You

will find

them

in health

food stores and at

cosmetic counters.

MOISTURIZING
Moisturizing keeps skin
barrier

soft,

which prevents natural

supple and young by creating a

cellular water levels

In essence moisturizers act as sealers.

be

effective.

There

pores and actually

moisturizing

is

is

from diminshing.

A sealer need not be heavy to

increasing evidence that heavy creams clog

damage

often the

delicate tissues under the eyes, therefore

most misunderstood part of the cleansing,

toning, moisturizing routine.

work best on damp skin and the perfect time to apply

because they seal the added moisture
created by the shower. Using moisturizing cream in this fashion has
Moisturizers

them

is

after a bath or shower,

the added advantage of stretching a

only assures you of not putting too

little

dab a long way, which not

much on, but in the long run saves

you money.
Moisturizing by misting the face with mineral waters
technique popular with the "spa-set."
the face with mineral water

is

is

A status affectation,

another

spritzing

no more effective than splashing it with

terry. What you seek is the

water from the tap or using a dampened

wetness that feeds the skin, so water

Fresh water swimming

lates circulation

is

it

frequently.

fantastic for the face! All exercise stimu-

which feeds the

skin, but

swimming multiple

laps

with your face immersed in water offers the bonus of moisturizing

which keeps skin youthful.

Climate, geography and the type of skin you have determines how
much you need to moisturize and what type of cream or liquid is best.
It takes experimentation to find those that are most effective.
I change moisturizers according to where I am and what I am
doing. In winter, skiing in the East where

a rich, lanolin based cream, layering

it

it is

cold and damp,

heavily around

use

my mouth and

my cheeks where I am driest. Since my lips are the driest part of

my face due to years of winter exposure, I wear a natural ingredient,
colorless lip cream, under lipstick all year round. When ski out West
on

in

high altitudes,

use a special high altitude cream which contains

sunblock. During the

Florida

summer

or while on speaking engagements in

use a sheer, light, aloe- vera liquid with sunscreen. In cities

such as Phoenix, Tucson, Salt Lake, Boise, or wherever

it is

dry,

my

179

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

'I

moisturizer changes again.

my

rinse-off

shower

coat

find the best moisturizer to be water

and

Immediately after my
entire body and face with the aloe-vera

swimming 50

skin feels superb after

my

laps.

liquid.

If

you

live in salt

laden

air,

rinse

your face

in

lukewarm and then

morning and

cool water often during the day and moisturize lightly

evening.

When

liquid in

your handbag so that you can rinse and moisturize enroute.

traveling,

keep small packets or a

vial

of cream or

Pressurized airplane cabins are excessively drying to the skin.

on a cruise or vacationing

When

at the seashore, rinse frequently

and

moisturize.

Sunshine

is

splendid. It lights the day,

But

lifts

our

spirits

and

is

the

deadly to the skin! If you enjoy sports and

participate actively, if you are a sun-worshipper, make sure you wear
source of

life.

it is

more than
dangerous and can cause skin

a good sunblock cream at all times. Nothing ages the skin

sunshine.
cancer.

The

Do

ultra-violet rays are

not sunbathe between

1 1

are harshest. Save sunning for early

you want to maintain a youthful

Now
paying

skin.

that cosmetics are labeled

for.

Many

a.m. and 3 p.m. when the rays

morning and late afternoons if

you can

identify

what you are

expensive brands contain the same ingredients as

Most have a mineral oil base. The ingredient listed

makes up the majority of the formula, with all others in descending proportion. Therefore if you are paying a great deal of money for
a very special cream and you find that particular ingredient listed last
or close to last, you know that there is very little of it in the product.
I buy many of my cosmetics from a mail order house which
specializes in vitamins and naturally based products. But these too
contain almost the same ingredients you find in those sold in department stores. That is why I find reading labels fascinating. Those
touted as being "natural" contain the very same substances, because
almost all cosmetic ingredients are naturally derived from plants and
less costly items.

first

animal

oils.

your kitchen cabinet. One of my ski friends

on his face. Another swears by olive oil. A
woman I play tennis with uses mayonnaise. Whatever works best for
you and is least expensive is what you want. Examine, explore and
"Natural"

oils are in

uses only safflower

experiment.

It is

oil

fun, especially visiting cosmetic counters for consul-

and trying on new faces. If you do not live near these facilities
there are numerous individualized makeup services such as: Mary
tation

Kay Cosmetics, Avon, Merle Norman, Beauty Control, whose representatives will call

180

on you

at

home.

The Finishing Touch

Who is the fairest one of all? One who knows what

it!

When you

see a lovely, well-groomed

someone with & finished touch.

woman you

to

do and does

are looking at

When she awakes in the morning,

she

does not look any better than you. But she has learned the art of
coordination, grooming and makeup.

MAKING UP YOUR FACE

Makeup

begins with foundation because foundations even color

Some women

powder

after using a

moisturizer. Others prefer a balanced liquid foundation

and no pow-

and improve skin

texture.

prefer

have not used powder in many years. I prefer the natural, more
youthful sheen of a liquid foundation. Liquid foundations are water-

der.

based, or oil-based and can be used on

of coverage

is

easily controlled.

all

The amount
making cream and

skin types.

Liquid makeup

is

cake makeups as obsolete as rice powder and cake mascara.

Foundation looks most natural when it is kept as close to skin

You want to match the color of your face, not your
neck or wrist. However, there are times when foundation color can
create special effects and camouflage as well as enhance.
For example:

color as possible.

Colorless foundation smooths

fair,

porcelain type skins.

Pink-toned foundation brightens sallow skins.

Peach-toned foundation looks best on mature skins.

Beige-toned foundation compliments healthy, outdoor

The
ous"

is

often the choice of foundation color

No

it.

you choose

it

The following
face,

whether you look "madeup" or "marveland your own dexterity

one should be aware that you are wearing makeup.

difference between

in applying
If

faces.

carefully

is

and work

at applying

it

subtly,

no one

will!

a quick-easy-minutes-only routine for a fantastic

(sketches 57 and 58)

181

Sketch 57

I.

Foundation

Dot on foundation working with

fingers.

ward

Blend over face using up-

Do not scrub or pull

strokes.

skin. If

foundation does not have

enough

"slip"

mix

it

with mineral

water, or plain water and moisturizer

in

palm of your hand

the

before you apply

it.

Blend a second

coat to cover trouble spots.

2.

Concealer

To cover darkness under

to

camouflage

ing

warmth
making
gentle.

will
it

first in

eyes and

dot conceal-

cream under eye

your fingers

182

lines,

area.

Warm

hot water. The

melt the cream slightly,

easier

to

apply.

Avoid a too-white look.

Be

Sketch 58

3.

Rouge

Smile.

Dot cream rouge on highest

part of cheekbone. Blend towards

hairline.

Do

not blend close to eyes

or middle of face. If you use a dry

blush-on, follow the
nique,

using brush.

"setting"

same techyou are

If

your face with dusting of

powder, a touch of blush-on atop

K^

powder will brighten up your

cream rouge, (do this after step 4)
the

4.

Set

To

set

makeup, use

either

water or an ice-cube.

powder,

If you

choose

powder, use a light, translucent

shade and texture. Brush away
excess with a thick
I

makeup

brush.

prefer the sheen, the glowing look

which

is

achieved by a spritz of

mineral water,

a dash of plain

water, or by running an ice-cube

lightly

over

my

face.

183

"/ Haven't a Thing

To Wear!"

WITHOUT A DOUBT, THE EYES HA VE IT!

woman is endowed by nature with vivid eyes, thick, dark
and well-shaped brows, a woman without eye makeup is like a
hot fudge sundae without fudge. Something's missing! No amount of
makeup however, will do for the eyes what good health habits will.
Rest, a nutritious diet; and protecting the eyes at work, at play,
outdoors, all add up to eyes sparkling with vitality. Our moods; hapUnless a

lashes

piness, unhappiness, a positive attitude, or lack of confidence, are all

reflected in

our eyes. Eyes need daily doses of tender, loving care to

keep them healthy.

you are tired, or have a busy evening ahead, lie down with your
propped up. Place cotton balls soaked with witch hazel on your
closed lids. Unwind. When your eyes tire, "palm" them. Cup the
palms of your hands over your eyes. Shut out all light with the cupping. Think
black velvet. Sink deeper and deeper into the black
velvet. If you have been working steadily or driving, your eyes need
this momentary rest. You will be amazed at how refreshed they feel
after five minutes of "palming."
Wash your eyes each day, just as you brush your teeth. Use mild
boric acid solution, commercial eye wash or eye drops. It is especially
important if you use your eyes a great deal in your work; if you live in
air-polluted cities; if you have been confined in a smoke filled room;
if you have been at the beach. And wash your eyes before you put on
eye makeup.
Eye exercises keep eyes bright looking and youthful. They stimulate circulation to the eye and help maintain healthy eye muscles. Do
If

feet

the following anytime, anyplace:

1

Move

a pencil slowly

left,

the pencil with your eyes.

2.

Close eyes

tightly.

then right, then up, then down. Follow

Do

Open

not

move

head.

wide, wide, wider. Blink, blink, blink.

Most nearsighted people do not blink often enough.

3. Put arms straight out in front of you. Make two fists. Slowly
spread fists apart as you watch each fist move with each eye. Do not

move

head.

Move

fists

only as far as eye can follow. Return to center,

eyes following.
4. Sitting straight,

Look

reverse.

184

slowly begin to circle eyes, without moving head.

up, to the right;

down

to the

left.

Circle slowly five times, then

The Finishing Touch

5. The elephant swing relaxes the eyes and the mind. Drop head. Let
arms hang and shoulders droop. Feel like an elephant with a huge
head hanging. Relax. Swing body wide and easy. Shift weight from
foot to foot as you swing. Pick up momentum and give into the

swing.

Eye areas wrinkle first because the skin around the eye does not
manufacture its own oil. Use a light eye cream at all times. Sleep with
it on, and wear it outdoors. Apply it lightly under makeup. If you
intend to spend the day sailing, skiing, sunning, swimming or riding
on a motorcycle, put a generous layer on. Do not ever rub eyes or
rub cream into the skin around the eyes. Pat gently. Exercise stimulates circulation under eye areas and a light tapping with your fingers
is you apply eye cream is beneficial.

EYE MAKEUP
The

basic eye look should be flattering, chameleon-like,

all light

and

relatively quick to do.

As with

good

in

clothing, neutral palettes

provide more versatility. They avoid questioning whether to match

eye shadow to eyes or to clothes. Browns, greys, taupes and surpris-

mauves enhance all eye colors, are softer in daylight

and kind to mature eyes. They provide a muted setting which allows
natural eye color to shine forth. Save color and brighter eye shadows
for dim lights and festive occasions. They are to play with, not for
ingly neutral

harsh sunlight or

office lights.

Avoid

frosted shades.

harsh look, can cause allergic reactions and

make

They

give a

older eyes look

The idea is to highlight the eyes by softly defining them, rather

than riveting one's attention to "Aegean Blue." If you love eye color
older.

and what it does for you, tone it with a soft beige over the color.
Eye coloring is so varied you have a host of options: creams, sticks,
pencils, liquids, tubes, pressed powder. Some find pressed powder
shadow the easiest to apply. It blends well and is long lasting. I
cannot use pressed powder shadow or mascara when I wear my
contact lenses. Even the most minute particle flaking off" causes
irritation. I stick with cream eyeshadow in pencil type tubes and
wear false eyelashes when I wear contacts.

185

Sketch 59

To apply

eye makeup:

Required

tools:

eyelash

brow brush, eyebrow

curler,

pencil

or

powder, mascara, grey crayon and

Q-tips.

1.

Apply

light

tone neutral shadow

to clean, dry eyelid.

Apply darker tone neutral shain crease and slightly above.

Blend upward so that there is no
demarcation line. Add shadow to
outer corner of bottom lid.

2.

dow

3.

in

Curl lashes. Gently grasp lashes

curler.

seconds.

186

Squeeze

for

several

Sketch 60

4.

Powder

remove

Use a brush to
Apply mascara
upward to sepa-

lashes.

excess.

sweeping lashes

Repeat

rate them.

if

needed. Using

the tip of mascara wand, coat bot-

tom

lashes lightly.

cient

way

look

down

The most

of applying mascara
into a mirror

effiis

to

and brush

up. Several thin coats, followed by

separating and brushing the lashes

is

more

than one heavy

effective

coat.

5.

Eye

liners are

close

to

lash

Smudge with
smoky

soft,

lines.

meant

make

to

Make

look thicker.

lashes

with

eye

dots

crayon.

Q-tip to achieve a

Avoid hard

effect.

Line the inside rim of the

bottom

lid

with navy blue

liner. It

relieves redness in the eye,

makes

whites whiter and the eyes look

brighter.

Widen

close-set eyes

by

applying liner emphasis to outer

corners only.

6.

Brush eyebrows upward.

space

with

brow

color.

Fill in

Arch

should match natural curve of the

eye.

Tweeze wild

hairs.

Brows

should never be exaggerated either

in

shape or darkness.

Too

strong

an eyebrow accent detracts from

the eye. If you have heavy, straggly
brows tame them with a touch of
moustache wax.

187

'I

Skillfully applied, eye

and helps to camouflage

Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

makeup makes

the face

more

expressive,

than perfect features as effectively as

clothes camouflage the figure. Eye contouring creates the following
less

effects:

Deep set eyes: Use light (white or beige) shadow under brow. Apply
shadow sparingly on outer corner of lid. Line upper and lower lids
lightly with eyeliner. Mascara upper lashes only.
Close set eyes:

Do

Run

a line of light shadow from tear duct to middle

not use shadow close to nose. Apply

liner, mascara or
towards outer edge, away from inside corner of eye.
Apply mascara more heavily to outer corner of upper lash, lightly
to outer corner of lower lash. Eyes look further apart when makeup
begins away from nose.

of brow.

false eyelashes

Baggy eyes: Lighten deep crevices under bags with light toned
shadow or foundation. Brush a darker eye powder or use a darker
foundation on puffy bag. Line and mascara upper lids only; avoid all
harsh

lines.

Bulging eyes: Use darker shadow on entire upper

look. Line

and mascara upper

lids only.

Keep

lid to

deepen the

the look soft and

smoky.

Wide set

eyes: Apply shadow to entire upper lid. Line upper lid fully.
Mascara upper lashes and outer half of lower lashes. To create the
look of wide set eyes, apply shadow from center of upper lid outward,
line and mascara from center outward.

FALSE EYELASHES
By

became a devoted user years

Without false lashes
my eyes look bald. With them I feel more attractive. They are worth
the time I spent learning how to put them on.
It was doubly difficult for me since I wear contact lenses and I
could not figure out whether the lashes should go on first, and then
the lenses; or pop the lenses in and then try to glue the lashes. At
times the lashes wound up on my nose, more often I lost the lenses!
ago.

188

all

means, try

false eyelashes. I

My natural lashes are blond and baby-fine.

The Finishing Touch

Putting false eyelashes on takes practice.

my

find

easiest

it

when

and place the

lashes just under the fold that lies between my natural lashes and the
lid. Curve the lash to the shape of your eye before you begin. Make
sure it fits. If too long, cut from outer end. To make eyes look wider,
place lashes slightly away from inside corner. Demi-lashes that are
not quite as long are good for people with close set eyes. To curl false
eyelashes, wet them and let dry wrapped around a pencil.
close

eye, look into the mirror with the other eye

Squeeze a small amount of surgical adhesive on a pin. Draw a fine

along edge of lashes. Place on eyelid. Press lash

line of adhesive

gently in towards

lid.

When

false eyelashes together.

adhesive

sets,

press your

own

lashes

and

Mascara.

A more natural looking alternative to strip lashes is the individual

and short hairs. They are more time
and take more practice, but
your own. Use them as fill in or for emphasis

lash sold in clusters of long

consuming

to apply than strip lashes

they look exactly like

wherever you wish. They create the illusion of thickly lashed eyes.
Do not place them close to inner corner of eye, no matter what your
eye shape.

To

apply:

Begin at middle. Pick up lash with tweezer. Dip base into adhesive.
if you are
(Some makeup experts place artificial lash one third
of way down on natural lash. While it looks fine from a front view,
it looks false from all other angles.)

Affix artificial lash to base of lid or to base of natural lash

lengthening

If

you are

it.

satisfied

with the placement of the

first lash,

continue

you wish. Check each

into the mirror. Look down.

until all lashes are affixed achieving the look

lash after placement.

Look

at lashes

Look

from a

straight

profile view.

Make

sure lash

is

securely in

Apply individual lashes after curling your natural lashes and

before using mascara. The results are more natural than strip lashes
with the added bonus of meeting your personal needs.
place.

EYEBROWS
Eyebrows lend animation, expression and balance to the face.
Unless you want to raise eyebrows keep them as natural as possible.
Pluck brows only

if

they are wild, shaggy,

sit

too closely over the eyes

189

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

and cannot be tamed.

Do

not be a promiscuous plucker!

Make

sure

each hair really should come out.

To pluck: Brush brow and

continue to brush as you go along.

Cream

the area generously, and sterilize the plucked area afterwards with
alcohol.

Make

sure alcohol does not get near your eyes.

Run an

ice-cube over brows to prevent swelling.

LIPS
No

matter what the trend, the only people

without

dewy

lip

color are

women under

who

look attractive

twenty and men! For a youthful,

look, use soft-toned lipsticks in

muted or

frosted shades.

Lipsticks come in four basic colors: Reds, Browns, Pinks, Oranges.

Reds highlight the colors you wear and are the most important of
the four basic shades. Reds are best with strong colors, and to create
special effects. Reds look warm and vivid under night lighting and

liven colors that

stylistic

need bright complement. Bright reds also enhance

type clothes, such as a 30's look.

Browns neutralize and tone down the colors you wear. They look
Brown tones are more natural
looking and more appropriate during the day or for the office.

best with textures, tweeds, wools.

Pinks can be paradoxical.

like fuschia center attention

Some

softly

on your

lips

minimize the look. Others

and pull the eye away from

what you are wearing.

Oranges are

difficult to

wear because they look as unnatural as

Tang tastes. Coral is kinder to the face and easier to accessorize,

it is

The main consideration of lip

rest

since

a deft blend of orange and pink.

color

is

that

it

harmonize with the

of your makeup, (no burgundies or bright rflagenta with brick

blushon!) and that you achieve color compatibility with the clothing

Almost any color lipstick can be worn with black,

navy and white, but other colors and shades need an educated,
nearest your face.

talented blending.

Do

190

not throw old lipsticks

away

just because

you have

tired of

The Finishing Touch

them, or the color that looked so great at the cosmetic counter now
seems all wrong. Save used lip gloss pots to create your own colors!
Crush old lipstick into pot, add a bit of your new favorite color (slice
it from the top with a razor blade). Mix thoroughly with a lip brush.
You have created a new custom color and saved money on a new
lipstick! Dig favored, used up colors out of tube bases. Put into lip
gloss pots and mix up a new batch.

To make up your mouth:

Many makeup

Begin by outlining

lips.

darker than the

color and an

lip

all

artists like to use a pencil

over application of

lip liner. I

approach creates a hard, artificial look. A more believable

mouth is created by using two pencils: one slightly lighter than your
lipstick and one slightly darker. The lighter shade is used to define
the lips and keep lipstick from bleeding into the tiny crevices surrounding the mouth. Do this first. The darker pencil is for emphasis
find this

after main lip color is in place. Highlight top center "M" and center
bottom of lips with darker pencil. This creates a sculpting effect with

color.

After lining

lips,

apply lipstick directly from tube or with lipstick

To complete lip makeup, apply gloss to the center of bottom

Any other placement of gloss will wear away too quickly and

brush.
lip.

gives a greasy rather than moist appearance.

Use the ever

faithful

Q-tip to clean any smudges.

Whatever makeup you choose it must be compatible with your

body chemistry. Many are allergic to various cosmetics and the new
labeling law is helpful in determining what the actual ingredients
are.

Take time to experiment with makeup. Try many brands until you
which suits you best. You will be amply rewarded for the
time spent with a glowing, finished look that makes you self-confident, beautiful and secure!
find that

191

n
The Crowning Touch

Is it not ironic that I, the victim of confused and cranky chromosomes, which must have been kissing cousins to Telly Savalas, should

be writing a chapter on hairstyles and hair care?

The

ultimate irony

handsomely

miserable hair, the

soft
is

and

is

that

for 22 years. It

my

is

hair

show would be

silky as a child, I

a mystery. Experts

tell

so poor

is

it

has supported

the keystone of my show. Without

less

now know

is

funny.

What

horrid.

us the quality of our hair

thought was

How

me
my

it

is

came about
genetic.

My

parents, grandparents, uncles, aunts, cousins, all have thick, beautiis incredibly handsome. My daughter had
went out West to ski for two years. After months
of steady skiing in high altitudes and bright sunshine without protecting her hair or scalp, her hair is now like mine: limp, thin and

ful hair.

My

sons' hair

lovely hair until she

baby- fine.

My

my hair is the result of a hormonal imbalwas born. During my pregnancies my hair grew
thick, lustrous and long. Three months after my children were born,
it would begin to fall out in handfuls. Since it was inconvenient to
research indicates

ance with which

stay pregnant

the time,

all

have learned to cope, although I have

I read all I can about hair and hair
watch what I eat. I balance the stress in my
I

never accepted having ugly hair.

take vitamins.

care.

life. I

seek professional advice.

192

do

all

the right things.

Does

it

help?

The Crowning Touch.

Not a

whit! All

can hope for

is

that in

my

next incarnation

come

back as Farrah Fawcett's grandchild.

I remember years back making an appointment with a leading hair
stylist who I hoped might devise a cut I could handle. I was so
ashamed to have him see my hair as it actually was, I went to a local
shop first to have it washed and set! When the "great one" looked
at

my

"I'll

hair,

give

it

he shook his head,

lifted his scissors

limply and sighed,

a try!"

Another time on the Dinah Shore show, when one of the world's
most famous hairdressers was challenged to do a hairdo on me, he
laughed and put a wig on my head instead!
Because of my hair I am ultra-sensitive to the importance of hair
in creating the crowning touch to the finished look. A handsome
head of hair, beautifully styled makes one look sensational. And how
great it makes one feel Without lovely hair, one looks unfinished
and unattractive.
Pick parents with heavy, lustrous manes if you want to have a
'/

fantastic head of hair. (Mine didn't help me at all). It is the only way
you are going to get it, for the hair you are born with is the hair you
will have! You can never have more, no matter what some may
promise. Your body allows only the number of hairs your genetic
printout calls for, and no amount of brushing, oiling, shampooing,
conditioning and dressing is going to change that.
Without proper care, you could lose what you have even with a
good genetic heritage. Chemicals, air pollution, poor nutrition,

smoking, excessive
anything that

is

stress, over-bleaching,

over-permanenting, over-

harsh hurts hair.

The hair, like the rest of our body is fed by the bloodstream. If
important nutrients are missing, vitamins, trace minerals, oil, protein,

the hair will not flourish.

on to the nucleus of the

hair stops developing.
hair stops growing

Did you know

When

and

The

hair bulb passes these nutrients

hair. If the

nourishment

is

inadequate the

the bulb becomes diseased or toxic, the

falls out.

The Arrector Pili

muscle keeps hair erect and anchored to the scalp. Like all muscles
it contracts, which allows hair to move as it grows. When this muscle
tightens due to spasms caused by stress or poor nutrition, it locks
hair in place and the hair stops moving. This can often be painful.
If these muscles weaken, hair becomes limp and falls out.
Hair shafts contain a medulla and cortex. The medulla is an inner,
that our scalp has muscles?

193

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

center chamber.
tecting

it

is

It is

the nucleus of the hair. Surrounding

the cortex, which maintains moisture

and

oil.

and pro-

When we

change hair color chemically we bleach the cortex of its pigment. In

addition, each hair strand consists of a number of layers stacked one
on top of each other which protect the cortex. The outer layer is
called the cuticle. It is the number of these layers which determine
hair thickness, density and quality. The loss of layers leads to thin,

damaged

brittle,

hair.

Thick hair has as many as 20

The

layers.

My

hair probably has three.

layers consist of a hardened type of protein which

plastic-like. It

dry out becoming

When

hair

is

almost

can melt, soften, crack, be colored, reshaped and can

is

brittle.

colored, the dye collects in the third layer. Since the

shows through the layers above. The

which emerge from the scalp have various degrees of curving

layers are translucent, color

follicles

as they follow exit pathways.

layer of the hair as

it is

bent.

the sharper the curve of the

The curving causes

These

slits

follicle,

slits in

the outer

give the hair flexibility, and

the curlier the hair. Slits are

formed as the hair is bent in different directions when styled and

combed. Permanent waves slit the outer layers to form new, flexible
shapes. Once the hair shaft is slitted, it becomes vulnerable. Straight
hair is much stronger than curly hair because it has few slits. Evidence of this is the incredibly strong straight hair of the American
Indian and the Eskimo.
The sebaceous gland, which manufactures oil, connects to the follicle and is located close to where the hair exits from the scalp. It
lubricates the shaft reducing the friction caused by the emerging
process. The oil also protects the scalp from the elements. Unfortunately the sebaceous gland manufactures mostly saturated oil and
the body seeks to rid itself of it by dispensing it to various glands in
excessive amounts. When the sebaceous gland overproduces, one has
greasy, oily scalp, hair and skin. Diet, rather than shampoo controls
this

gland best.

The

must be kept

one

is

to have

healthy hair. If the scalp becomes tight, hardened, waxy,

it

loses its

scalp

clean, pliable

mobility and the muscles lose their tone.

and moist

The

if

follicle

openings close,
program of

the hair suffocates and falls out. Therefore a consistent

scalp massage
scalp

is

is

necessary to keep scalps pliable and pink.

a healthy scalp.

Whenever you think of

massage

194

it

it,

white, tight scalp

is

pink

a danger signal.

run your fingers through your scalp and

with a gentle, rotary movement. Begin at the back of the

The Crowning Touch

neck and work up and forward. It takes only a few moments and you
your scalp tingle. Make scalp massage a daily habit.
Keeping hair healthy is simple if you know the facts. If the nucleus

will feel

of the hair

is

harmed by poor

nutrition, excessive stress, disease,

chemicals and physical abuse the hair will atrophy and

grow

fall

out.

New

by side with the hairs they are replacing, but

they too can be deficient and loss will occur. Many times due to
illness, hormonal changes, stress, we lose large amounts of hair. Once
the problem is corrected new hairs will grow, but remember, new hair
hairs actually

side

from already existing follicles, and we have only the specific

number we were born with. If the follicle opening is closed or has been

exits

destroyed, that

is

the end of that particular hair.

TO KEEP HAIR HEALTHY

Eat a well balanced diet of nutritious, natural foods. Balance the

and pressures

your life through exercise, meditation and

and conditioned. Since many shampoo
advertisements refer to ph scale, it is wise that you know to what they
are referring. The ph scale between and 6.9 is acid. Seven is neutral.
Alkaline ph ranges from 7.1 to 14. Experts approximate that the
healthiest ph for hair would be 5.5. If you eat a lot of acid forming
foods such as meat and dairy products, hair and scalp will have an
acid ph. If you eat mainly vegetables, grains and fruits, hair and skin
stress

relaxation.

Keep

in

hair clean

are closer to neutral.

Massage scalp daily.

Protect hair from the elements by keeping

it

covered in hot sun and

wind.

Avoid the following physical abuses:

Combing

or brushing wet hair.

Excessive shampooing and rinsing.

the

slits

and cracks of outer

the layers of natural lubrication.

way

to the nucleus

Hot water

hair layers, loosening

forces

way

its

into

them and draining

Some of the water can even

find

its

and cause permanent damage, which leads to

thinning hair.

Washing and

rinsing hair under high pressure showers.

a shower massager on the hair.

Water force

It

Never use

shatters hair layers with

also stimulates sebaceous glands to

its

force.

produce more

oil,

195

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

making hair

greasier. If

you wash and

rinse hair in the shower, keep

water pressure gentle and temperature tepid.

Rough toweling

also

damages

hair layers.

You

strip the slitted

outer layers with rough towel drying. This causes remaining layers to
lift,

attracting positive electric charges

create static electricity

and flyaway

hair.

from the atmosphere which

Use a towel in one direction

only.

bleaching, frosting, straightening, perma anything that

hair structure and color affects the

Chemical processing
nent waves

alters

and loosening them. If you, like I, use

these chemicals, then you must also use preventative measures to conprotective layers, softening

dition the hair.

Hot

drying and styling.

air

Keeping

tight rollers in hair for long periods.

Tying hair back

Sleeping

on one

tightly or in

pony

tails.

side of the head.

Most harmful of all

and a dry atmosphere.

to hair

When

is

that

which ages the skin: sun, wind,

is removed from the scalp it

moisture

produce even more oil. At first this

it becomes excessive and the hair
becomes dry, causing a flaking, itchy scalp and lifeless looking hair.
The answer is to use a humidifier in winter and to cut back on air
conditioning in summer. Adding raw vegetable oil to your daily diet
triggers the sebaceous gland to

normalizes the hair, but then

is

also helpful.

BEAUTY PRODUCTS FOR THE HAIR

As with
its

the skin, you have to

know

the kind of hair

you have and

condition before you haphazardly use shampoos, rinses, condi-

tioners, hair colors, tints,

permanents,

etc.

The

effects of

many

hair

products can be surprising and harmful. For example: cream rinses

act as softeners. If your hair
rinse can

196

damage

it.

Some

is

already overly

soft,

using a cream

hair conditioners contain thickeners.

The Crowning Touch

slits in the hair layers and cause
become loosened. The layers will eventually fall off,
which is the opposite of what you want.
Harsh shampoos to control oil could overdry your scalp and hair,
aggravating the problem. If you have problem hair: soft hair, split
ends, the frizzies, or you "can't do a thing with it," have it tested by
a professional who can determine its density, thickness, and the
condition of the hair layers. Then you will have a prescription for

These thickening agents saturate the

the layers to

hair care that

is

individually tailored to your needs.

Read also, Philip Kingsley's excellent book on hair and hair care:
The Complete Hair Book (Grosset & Dunlap, 1979).
If you have the kind of hair my sons have, thick, curly, indestructible, browse hair cosmetic counters with abandon. Enjoy experimenting with whatever strikes your fancy!

HAIRSTYLES
Contour

is

just as important in hairstyles as

it is

in clothes. Hair-

doing for the face what clothes do for

Bangs, for example, help conceal a long, narrow or too-

styles balance the total look,

the figure.

wide forehead. Short bangs lengthen the

face.

Hair that looks non-structured, natural, loose, carefree makes you

appear younger than a tightly coiffed head. Little tricks with hair
camouflage, reproportion and fool the eye:

Avoid too

long, or too full styles

hair short, high

and

if

you are short and plump. Keep

soft.

For those who are slender and young,

loose, shoulder length styles

look sensational.

If

you are keel heavy, keep hair high and somewhat wide

at the

crown.

Those with swan-like necks look good in longer styles and fuller cuts;
those whose necks are short do better with short hair, brushed up
off neck.

If

you have crow's

corners to conceal

feet, fluff

hair at temples, waving

it

near the eye

lines.

197

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

Center parts are for those with almost perfect, oval faces. If one's
nose is Nefertiti-like, or one's face moon-shaped, steer left or right of
center parts.

Low

and hair brushed high soften square

side parts

faces

and help

reproportion those with avocado and round-shaped faces.

Extreme hair

styles

such as the small head look demand

finely

you have easily managed hair that responds well to styling, try whatever new look comes along. It keeps
you on top of the fashion scene and those you know can never take
you for granted!

chiseled, even features. If

HAIR PIECES
For those of us who cannot change

hairstyles as

wigs and other hair pieces are the answer. Wigs,

we would

falls,

wish,

chignons and

and add variety. Some like myself are

dependent on them for a dressed-up look. Others who have lost hair
due to illness and cancer therapy depend on them for full time wear.
The secret to a natural looking wig, is to choose one that is loose,
curls are fun, convenient

with hair falling slightly over forehead and about the face.

no hard, "wiggy"

line

Make sure

can be seen. Blend wig color with your skin

Why

wear a wig the same

much more fun and
intriguing to wear a different shade, as long as it harmonizes with
your skin tones. Try a daring shade, one that will change your
outlook and personality.
color. Note,

did not say, "hair color."

color as your hair?

You can

Synthetic fiber wigs are

terrific.

when shaken and brushed

less costly

of course, but

They

rather than

it is

little

care, look best

combed and

are oftentimes

require

than a cut, wash and set in a salon.

And you can try on a new color and style without having to change
your own hair! If you contemplate changing your hair color or style,
try on some wigs first before making this important decision. You
might even buy the wig closest to what you want and live with it for
a while to see if it really suits your mood and needs.
Wigs are wonderful for traveling, especially if you will be gone for
a period of time and your hair begins to change color at the roots.
If you are reluctant to have your hair treated enroute, a wig solves
the problem.

198

The Crowning Touch

Wearing wigs constantly is not good for your own hair, but wearthem occasionally is pure pleasure!
People have become so accustomed to me in my wigs, even my
closest friends forget it is not really my own hair. While skiing a
wooded trail one Sunday with my friend Sandy and my sons, a
low-hanging tree branch snagged my wig from my head. I threw
myself into the snow as a shrill scream sliced through the cold. Sandy,
rounding the bend behind me, seeing me in the snow, my hair in the
tree, fainted! The boys, embarrassed, skied on down the mountain
ing

pretending

we were

total strangers!

have written so far will make you feel and look special,
you money. It is time now to get to the nitty-gritty, to
determine what lurks in your closet so that you can easily coordinate
what you have with the ideas presented.
I

and

hope

all I

will save

199

11
Closets

Putting

One time

after a

along. "I'd like

All Together

It

man came

show, a

you to meet

forward tugging a woman

"she has two

my wife, Meg," he grinned,

closets filled with nothing to wear!"

Meg smiled sheepishly. "I can never throw anything out, yet
whenever something important comes up, like tonight, I never have
anything I want to wear!"
Meg is one of those millions of women with closets of collectibles
they are reluctant to cull. I understand fully. Whenever I give something away or sell it, I then need it. Since I enjoy recycling and
redoing clothes, it makes it doubly difficult to heed the wise inner
voice which nags, "Clean
It

it

out, Judy, clean

it

out!"

takes determination to discard that which clutters our closets

and stamina

to redo them, but before

know what

should

lies in their

you shop

depths ... so

for
let's

new

clothes you

clean

them out

now!

Look

at

it

as an adventure.

forgotten and you can

You

will find treasures you've long

make money on

discards and duds by selling

them or giving them away and taking a tax

feeling

about your

closet,

why

that your collection, both old

writeoff.

For a

clean,

new

not repaint or repaper the interior, so

and new, has a

bright, cheerful, orga-

nized place in which to shine?

The

lift

you get when your closet is freshened is fantastic. It

even in the way you look around the house, for you will

reflects itself

200

ClosetsPutting

It All Together

wear clothes you have forgotten about and to which you will add new
life and a new dimension. You know how good it feels when you've
cleaned up that mess in the garage? Cleaning out a closet is even
better. It is the ultimate high of housework.
The only way to reorganize a closet is all the way. Halfway measures won't work. Choose a time when nothing will interfere, when
you can be alone for a number of hours. Turn your favorite music
on and begin by taking everything out.
Prepare the room first for the clutter. If you have a portable
clothes rack, set it up. If not, arrange chairs, clear the bed and have
cartons handy in which to place clothes in their category together.
As you remove a garment, try it on. If it still fits your figure, your
personality and your lifestyle and is in tune with contemporary
fashion, it is a collectible. Keep it. If you find, however, that you
have not worn it for years, chances are you won't and unless it is a
special treasure you wish to keep as a memento (which should be
stored and wrapped in tissue paper) sell it, or give it away and get a
receipt for its value so you can write it off.
The compunction to keep fine quality clothes is strong and if you
are a good recycler that's fine, you will appreciate the recycling
suggestions offered later in this chapter. But if you cannot thread a
needle and the thought of altering anything makes you dash to
Dunkin' Donuts, keeping clothes with the intention of redoing them
is

unrealistic.

Major changes to duplicate new styles are expensive if done profesand chancey unless you are skilled. Therefore be realistic
about what you wish to keep when you restructure your closet,
recycle your clothes and reorganize.
How can anyone function with an unlit closet? A lighted closet is
essential and battery lights are fine if you do not wish to invest in
sionally

professional wiring.

Was this all in your closet?

What do I do now? Organize!
Coats first. Hang them by color, weight and texture. Use good
quality, padded hangers. Hang the coats you use most often the
Unbelievable clutter surrounds you.

you

ask.

you have an entry closet, put all your coats there,

with the exception of lightweight wraps that are an integral part of
an ensemble.

easiest to get to. If

Separate skirts from suit jackets. Categorize

jackets, pants, blouses, vests, jerkins, tunics.

all

Hang

separates: skirts,

pants by the

cuff,

201

Sketch 61

Sketch 62

202

ClosetsPutting

It All

Together

by the waistband. Folding skirts and pants over hanger bars

Arrange the separates according to color and
weight. Hang them so that you can easily see what goes with what.
One jacket can coordinate with many skirts; blouses and shirts can
be worn with a number of skirt, pant, jacket combinations. If you
hang jackets, vests and blouses on half bars above skirts and pants it
skirts

creates wrinkles.

will

If

make

selecting separates a cinch.

you are renting or are subject

to frequent transfer

you may

choose not to permanently or professionally refit your closet. Hanging rods are available in notions departments which double your

hanging space by creating two halfway levels. Other closet extenders

include hangers which have several clips for skirts and pants and
several shoulder bars for shirts

Hang

and

blouses.

dresses so they face separates section. Placing dresses

separates in close proximity enables

ing coordination.

Why

you to experiment with

not add a jacket or blazer to a dress; wear a

blouse which has a straight, finished

tie

and

interest-

hem open

as a third layer, or

the tails of a shirt at the waist? Vests, jerkins, sweaters, tunics,

scarves, belts all

add

interest to dresses extending

the unexpected. Try not to

crowd

clothes. Let

your wardrobe into

them hang

freely to

prevent wrinkling.
Place folded sweaters on the shelf above separates.

Make one stack

of pullovers, one stack of cardigans. If you have two-piece knitted

suits

make

sure you either hang

fold

them

as

them on a well padded hanger, or

you do sweaters. Keep two piece knits in separates
section, because they can be combined with other articles in your
wardrobe. Do not think of a two piece knit merely as a single outfit.
It is a separate! Wear the knitted skirt with a blouse and belt it; the
top with a tweed skirt and jacket, and both with a blazer.
Categorize clothes by color and weight rather than season since
many clothes today are transitional and can be worn year round.
Good visibility in your closet is important because seeing all your
clothes makes it easier for you to coordinate creatively. Arrange
articles so that you can see and identify them. I use clear plastic boxes
for shoes, scarves and jewelry, placing a label in the front of each box
which helps me identify the contents more easily. I have a vast
collection of scarves and I categorize them by color, keeping like
tones in one box. My non-valuable jewelry is categorized as to season
and kind: e.g. all, summer bracelets in one box; necklaces another;
pins another. Shoes are stacked according to season and color.
I do not keep garment bags in my ready-to-wear closet but in a

203

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

storage closet where

moment

clothes.

store out-of-season

label these

and out-of-use-at-the-

bags as well. Small, clutch type hand-

hanging bag with shelves which I purMy larger handbags are arranged
by color and texture on the shelf above the plastic shoe boxes.
bags are in a clear

chased

plastic,

in the notions

When my

friend

department.

Sandy

lived in

Greenwich Village she had only

one meager closet, but it had high ceilings. She had a carpenter install
an extra rung above the standard rod where she hung her out-ofseason clothes, reaching them with an old-fashioned hooked stick. At

an apartment which had a small, but deep closet.

an extra rod, behind the original.
Belts are best on belt rings or hung on hooks where you can see

one time
I

lived in

installed

is to keep everything up front, for seeing what we

have makes us use it more. So many of us tend to store things away
and then forget about them. Many closets are of the sliding door type
which prevents you from using the insides of the doors for hanging

them. The idea

Make

it mirrored on the
makes the room larger and more attractive, it
you a good sized reflection in which to check your creativity.

accessories.

use of a sliding door by having

outside. It not only

give

RECYCLERENO VA TERE- USE

Almost anything can be altered, updated, resurrected.
dresses and skirts can be shortened and the extra fabric
turned into a sash, scarf, or when trimmed with fringe, worn as a

Long

shawl.
Short, outdated dresses can be cut into overblouses or
skirts.

Ruth, an early morning walking enthusiast and a

worn under
retiree on a

fixed income, cleverly wears her daughter's cast-off short dresses as

blouses under sports skirts. Ruth also updated a pair of out-dated

by ripping the seams, refashioning them into a

stitching a new seam down the center.

culottes

skirt,

top-

Tuck too-short pants into boots. Wear them as knickers, or cut

them shorter and wear as gauchos. Add top-stitching or trimming
to let-down hems so that original hemlines do not show. Turn a
daytime dress into evening by hemming it with boa. Update old
blouses by stitching new buttons on with embroidery floss in a color
to match or contrast with the fabric. Replace buttons for a newer,
more contemporary appearance. Wear old shirts and blouses under
sweaters with only the collars and cuffs showing. Try an old lace-

204

Closets

Putting

trimmed
tive

slip

It All Together

under a

blouse which

silk

is

worn open

for a provoca-

evening look. Insert or remove shoulder pads according to cur-

rent styles.

Turn coats

into

box jackets. Refashion old

furs into vests,

jerkins, or as linings for outerwear.

If

you are a

skilled seamstress,

Narrow or widen

lapels,

pending on current

update

and

suit jackets

styles. If

the suit

are unskilled, have an expert

do

it.

is

coats.

hems

shorten or lengthen jackets and

de-

of excellent quality and you

Add

a pin, a flower, a scarf or

a belt and suddenly what you intended to discard has taken on

new

life!

I've

adopted a number of my son's cast off shirts, especially old

I love to lounge in. Longer than my own shirts, the

velours which

old velours are

dandy pajama tops on a cold

night.

The

dress shirts

are great for casual wear. Since the sleeves are too long,

hem them and wear them

cut and

remove
them and top stitch the neckline for a collarless look. I either cut
shirtails off and hem them straight or I wear them folded up with
tails tied around my waist. The shirts are good quality cotton, and
comfortable casual wear under sweaters, and with sports clothes.
The gold color chain I use as a necklace or belt in my show was
once the handle to a handbag. When the handbag wore out, I detached the chain. When the ruffled look was the rage years back, I
had kitchen curtains I yearned to get rid of, but my frugality prevented me tossing them out for no reason. Priscilla style organdy,
they were trimmed with yards and yards of lush ruffles. I made
collars and cuffs to create a ruffled look and use them to this day.
Hundreds of recycling possibilities lurk in your closets. With the
rolled. If the collars are frayed I

soaring cost of clothes, renovating

is

not only fun,

it is

money

smart!

you enjoy recycling old clothes and buying antique items Diana
Funaro's excellent book "The Yestermorrow Clothes Book"
(Chilton 1976) offers detailed drawings and instructions.
If

CARING FOR CLOTHES

Some people
drop, they
hurriedly,

lie,

care for clothes like

to be picked

all in

up days

my

daughter. Wherever they

(or weeks) later

and cleaned

a bunch.

Years of performing and the need to have clothes on-the-ready

have instilled discipline. I hang my clothes immediately and check

them

for soil

and needed repairs before

put them away.

205

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

think

When

my

system

is

easier.

My daughter thinks am
I

compulsive.

watch her anguish as she tries to press a wrinkled skirt

moments before an appointment, or wash ten loads an hour before
departure, I am grateful for the discipline I have developed.
I

much

program than
"Sunday." Save little repair jobs
such as ripped hems, loose buttons, split seams for your favorite talk
shows. Iron to music, its cadence lending rhythm to your strokes.
Wash, iron, repair and send to the cleaners as the need arises. Do
not wait for "Sunday or someday," which comes all too soon. Then
the mountain of clothes which need care becomes so depressing you
either spend the whole day cursing or you raid the refrigerator.
Check clothes for soil and spots and check handbags and shoes as
well, polishing and cleaning them before you put them away. Putting
good leathers into the closet soiled lessens their life.
Oil or polish shoes and handbags frequently to keep them looking
It is

them

to toss

easier to care for clothes with a consistent

all

into the closet for

lovely. Stuffing shoes

with tissue or using shoe trees helps maintain

their shape. If you are

caught in a downpour as I was with a favorite

pumps, stuff them with tissue or newspa-

pair of

Ferragamo

leather

per until they are dry and then use

I

find that Jubilee

Kitchen

mink

restore suppleness.

oil to

Wax cleans white or light colored leathers

beautifully.

lesson

have learned in 22 years of travelling and lecturing

is

to lay out clothes the night before. Wrinkles generally disappear

when

clothes are laid out.

bathroom before

I retire,

When on

the road,

hang them

in the

steaming them out by turning the hot water

and other napped fabrics.

an iron and you have no time to steam your
clothes in the bathroom, every hotel room has an object which works
as an iron
the light bulb in any lamp! Turn the light off, remove
shade, dust off the bulb. Turn light back on and as the bulb warms,
quickly run the area to be smoothed over the warming bulb. The
on. This
If you

especially effective for velvets

is

do not
.

travel with

hotter the bulb gets the faster

you must work.

It is

an excellent

emergency measure.
Pressing clothes is an art, and while I am not the best of ironers,
have learned a few hints which work.
A good steam iron that does not spit and a sturdy, well padded
board is essential. Treat yourself also to a sleeve board and a shoulder
I

mitt.

They make

garment inside
pressing cloth.

206

it

you to do a professional job. Turn

you iron on the right side, use a cotton

easier for

out, or if

Closets Putting

To

It All

Together

prevent press marks showing on the right side

seams

flat,

when

ironing

place an envelope or a double sheet of paper, under the

seam allowance,

as

you

iron. If the

garment

is

lined, iron inside first,

turn to right side and use a pressing cloth. If there are stubborn

wrinkles in the seat or in the sleeves, use a

damp

cotton press cloth.

Purchase pressing cloths, sleeve boards and shoulder mitts in the

notions department.
I travel with an iron and steamer (for my hats) and I use large bath
towels doubled, placing them either on the floor or on a table for
ironing needs.

Those on

tight

budgets should consider the cost of dry cleaning

when purchasing garments which have DRY CLEANING ONLY

tags sewn inside. While I do wash my silk scarves and on occasion
have washed

my

ing silk shirts

is

silk shirts in

cold water and Woolite

hand wash-

a chore and requires careful pressing. IT IS

MUCH

SAFER TO DRY CLEAN

applied deftly also

SILKS. Woolite diluted slightly and

does a good job on fabric handbags and shoes.

Light colored clothes, unless they are easy-to-care-for synthetics

can put a crimp

when they

in budgets.

Whites and pale colors look lovely only

are bright and clean, and natural fibers will require fre-

quent dry cleaning. Therefore

if

you love the natural

fabrics, plan to

spend more money on maintenance.

Linings too must be considered.
coat

is

The

status of a

diminished by a soiled or ripped

have aged

in

good quality

lining.

handsome

suit or

Replace linings that

clothes.

Since moving to the cabin

I use bulk dry cleaning machines for

and other garments which do not require professional pressing. It is less expensive than paying for dry cleaning by
the piece. After a while however, dry cleaning woolen sweaters robs
them of their texture. Washing is best for woolens, for wool is a
natural fiber which responds well to water. Wash good woolens in

sweaters, slacks

cold water with Woolite, adding a teaspoon of baby

so that the wool retains

its

softness.

oil to

the rinse

Block away from heat and allow

to dry naturally.

you have synthetic clothes which have "pilled," I pass on a hint

me by Penny, a young executive who is successful in a
male-dominated industry while maintaining an attractive and soothing femininity. Penny uses cheap, about-to-be-discarded razors
whisking them lightly over clothes which have pilled. I tried it on
an Orion sweater and the pills disappeared!
If

given to

207

'I

Your

closets are

now

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

freshened and organized. All the chaff has

been discarded and you have a good idea of what you

goes with what.

You have

own and what

also promised yourself to be consistent

about clothes care and maintenance. All this industrious

serves to be rewarded

thing

new

to

add

and what better

treat

luster to that lovely uncluttered closet!

Let's explore the lively art of getting the

208

effort de-

than shopping for some-

most

for

your money!

13
Getting The

For Your

Most

Money

Getting the most for your money, and buying the best for your
needs

is

game of

rather than luck! Shopping

skill

pastime for some and a dreaded chore for others.

fully requires training. It

is

a national

To shop

success-

means developing an educated eye and the

and endurance of a long distance runner.

Shopping for clothes is a costly, time-consuming undertaking and
should begin with a structured plan. It is amazing to me how women
who appear completely practical, efficient and moneywise will become impulsively emotional when they shop for clothes for themdiscipline

selves. I

know women who never make a mistake when choosing

who shop for food loaded with lists and

things for their family,

cents-off coupons, spending hours in supermarkets to save pennies,

only to blow

it

all at

or twice and then

Bloomingdale's on fashions they will wear once

tire of.

Buying does stimulate our emotions and to strike a happy balance

between mind and desire takes discipline, determination, and apian.
Shopping impulsively is risky. One incident comes to mind.
Years ago I fell mindlessly in love with an orange sherbert, nubby
wool suit. It was perfect in every possible way, except one
// was
wrong for me. But, blinded by the beauty of the fabric and
mesmerized by the markdown (it had been so drastically reduced the
tag hypnotized my eyeballs and levitated my charge plate to the
clerk), I bought it anyway. I rationalized all the way home, refusing
.

all

209

'7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

to acknowledge the persistent drone in my head which nagged, "Orange sherbert nubby wool? You'll look like a melted cone!"
My son Jeff, home from school, took one long look at me in the
suit and boomed, "Boy, Mom, you're getting fat!"
1 went to the phone immediately and dialed my next door neigh-

bor, a

pompous woman with an

judged giving her the

irritating, pretentious attitude.

recompense for her frequent jibes. She

loved it (as I knew she would) and I enjoyed the way she looked in it
as she waddled to the elevator.
suit in

on our emotions with clever merchandising, enticing

and "packaging". And how persuasive "packaging" can be!
There is little you have ever bought in any category that has not been
carefully researched and "packaged" to stimulate your senses, to
play on your emotions so that you could not help but buy it!
Even the tossed about tables and stacks of racks in non-glamorous
Stores play

displays

discount stores are part of "packaging." Their chaotic clutter leads

you to believe that you are getting a bargain and so you barrel
through them, impulsively buying much you do not really need.
How vulnerable we are and how well merchandising executives
know our weaknesses. Their profit depends on your impulse purchases. All the oh-so-clever stimuli are intended to make you buy
without thinking because an impulse purchase is pure plus for a
store. Not that all on-the-spur-of-the-moment buys are bad. Seeing
something on sale that you really need and buying it is being sales
smart. But becoming diverted by budget breakers when you've
planned to buy something else is nothing more than giving into your
emotions and adding double digits to your deficit budget.
The pressures on a woman when she shops are enormous for not
only must she deal with the seduction of her emotions by merchants,
she has to cope with her self-image, her status, her means, her reflection in the mirror,

and too often,

sales clerks

who

enjoy putting

her down!

any wonder that many women detest shopping claiming: "It

headache," or "They never have anything I can wear," or
"The clerks call their friends and by the time I get there, nothing
good is left," or, "I get confused, I just can't decide what I want!"
Frustration, insecurity, fear and fury often overtake a woman
Is

it

gives

when

me a

she shops for clothes, because the decision she

her appearance and the

money

she spends

is

makes

Twenty-two years of being on the road has given me the

210

affects

so important to her.
privilege

Getting The

Most For Your Money

of browsing and shopping in stores

all

over the country, as well as

the extraordinary opportunity of observing thousands of

all

women

of

and incomes. This, plus millions of

which have offered contemplation and

ages, backgrounds, interests

miles of boring plane trips

my

countless copies of the latest magazines, have helped sharpen

fashion focus and

my

shopping

skills.

Successful, money-saving shopping requires a

game

plan.

PLAN AHEAD
Now that you have reorganized your closets, know what contours
and colors

suit

you best and have determined what you need

coordinate with what you have, hone your fashion

skills

to

with con-

you buy, scan the ads in fashion magazines

Magazine ads more accurately forecast
trends, as do the articles which also offer valuable "how-to" information. Newspaper ads give you the specifics of where to find what you
tinuing exposure. Before

and

in

the newspapers.

want.

Attending fashion shows also enhances expertise because clothes

on a runway look

Movement adds
and

totally different

outfits in fashion

dinated to

Even

make

than when hanging on a rack.

a dimension to clothes you cannot see on a hanger,

shows are professionally put together, coor-

the most of their color, shape, texture and purpose.

you feel the fashions in the show do not relate to your needs,
show of ideas as well as design and you can adopt many of the
accessorizing concepts and color combinations.
Alert your senses to incoming and outgoing lines and how they can
be modified so that what you buy will not become easily outdated.
Balance what you have with what you want and need, and plan a
it is

if

budget.

A realistic, flexible budget is important as is a written

list

of

what you intend to buy. Before you set out with checkbook and
credit cards, spend a day or two just browsing.

BROWSE BEFORE YOU BUY

and browsing helps you
and what you will be spending. Unless you
have a super keen memory, take a small notebook along and jot down
where the best buys are.
Stores carry similar items at varying prices

establish

what

is

in style

211

"I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

Browsing sharpens sensitivity and helps evaluate merchandise.

There is nothing wrong with saying, "I'm just looking." Most salesclerks leave you alone when you tell them this. Browse even the super
select shops and design departments where clothes are generally not
displayed. When you tell clerks that you are considering a purchase
and wish to think about it, they are generally helpful, especially if
you ask for their card. If you should come across an arrogant person
who tries to do a number on you, establish unswerving eye contact

and firmly express what you wish to see. When you have finished,
simply say, "Thank you, I will be back when I have made a decision."

You may be pressured to buy, especially in smaller shops. Rememmake no decision on major, expensive purchases without

ber

sleeping on

In 1969

it first.

wanted a white fur

coat. I

needed a new coat and

decided that a casual white lambskin would work best with

my

which I would not go. It was October and

San Francisco for the National Association of Realtors. I was staying at the St. Francis and since my show
was the following day and I had the afternoon free, I headed for
Ghiardelli Square to meander through the shops. On a mannequin in
a small fur salon was just the type of coat I wanted. I tried it on
and it was perfect, but it was $200.00 more than I had planned to
spend. When the clerk put the pressure on saying it was "one-of-aclothes. I set a price over
I

was engaged

kind,

to appear in

hard-to-get,

could-not-be-reordered, looked-so-beautiful,

I-

countered with what has saved me all

these years. "I never make a decision about anything that costs this
much unless I sleep on it. Thank you, I'll be back."
He was annoyed but I left, fully intending to be back because I
would-never-find-another,"

loved the coat and wanted

extra $200.00,

which

in

it.

just

had to think about spending the

1969 was a good deal of money.

The next afternoon, following my show I headed for the American

office on Union Square to cash a check so that I might buy

Express

I had decided it was worth the extra two hundred. Adjacent

American Express was an interesting boutique which had vivid
sales signs all over its windows. It was going out of business. In the
WHITE FUR COAT ... the
window was a white fur coat ...
very same design, the very same type of fur I had seen the day before.
I just stood and stared. So much for "one-of-a-kind!" I went in and

the coat.
to

MY

on. It

as perfectly as the other had. Cautiously

tried

it

price

and when the clerk told me,

212

fit

gasped.

It

was $200.00

asked the
less

than

Getting The

Most For Your Money

the coat in Ghiardelli Square.

my

limit. I

bought

it

It

was exactly the

immediately and

Browsing enables you to

try

I still

price

had

enjoy wearing

set as
it.

on a new image, clothes you would

may be exactly what you

not ordinarily think of buying, but which

need for a change of pace. One needs to step into new lines, new
new looks, occasionally, and browsing is the easiest way to
experiment. Psychologically you know you are not planning to buy,
designs,

so you feel

much

of a chance than

freer, more confident and you give yourself more

when you actually put cash on the line.

KNOW YOUR STORE

makes you confident and knowing the store you shop
you from uncertainty and timidity. Many stores cater to a
particular kind of customer and have established identities relating
to quality, price and the variety of merchandise they offer. Walking
into a large, unfamiliar store is upsetting and confusing because not
only are you unaware of the kind of clothes they sell, but you have
no idea of where the various departments are. Many department
stores have become a series of small boutiques and specialty shops,
each featuring specific styles at varying prices. Thus, browsing
becomes more important so that you familiarize yourself with these
new departments and the choices available to you.
Familiarity

in frees

At one

women

major cities had a variety of interesting shops

Today, outlying complexes offer suburban and rural

time, only

to explore.

unlimited options.

in malls

Not only

are there

many

specialty shops

along with one or two anchor stores, but super stylish

complexes which feature unique, ingenious selections have opened.

Water Tower Place in Chicago; The Mayfair in Coconut Grove; New

Market in Philadelphia; the Omni and Bal Harbour Shops in Miami;

Market Place Square in Boston; Place Ville Marie in Montreal;

Rodeo Drive in Beverly

Hills;

Peachtree Plaza in Atlanta; Ghiardelli

San Francisco and similar shopping areas

country offer the browsing shopper a vivid showcase
Square

in

all

over the

in

which to

Do

not waste

experiment.

Rate the stores you shop

in

by what they

time in stores that are unsuitable.

through bargain basements. Others detest

surroundings and pampering.

Still

offer you.

Some woman adore burrowing

it

and require splendid

others are not happy unless they

213

"I Haven't

know

they have gotten

it

a Thing To Wear!"

"wholesale" or drastically reduced.

Some

women become so dedicated to one store they neglect to explore new

arenas in which to shop, missing many opportunities for adventurous
clothes hunting. Specialty shops

and boutiques tend

to limit their

wares to specific tastes and sizes, but that does not mean there won't
be something special for you.
I

once thought the avant garde boutiques in Greenwich Village too

One day while visiting Sandy, I went by a shop I had

exotic for me.

passed many times on other visits. I enjoyed their windows, amused

by the unusual designs which made me wish I were years younger.
In the window this time was a simple wool pant suit in muted tones
of lavender. I went inside and began to browse, and to my surprise
found a number of items I could wear. I bought the lavender shirt
and pants and have the shirt in my wardrobe to this day.

Factory outlets offer savings on clothing and accessories, but one

must be observant and knowing, because outlets deal in "seconds,"
merchandise which has a flaw and cannot be sold through regular
channels at the established price. But you can find marvelous buys
in them. I bought three velour shirts at 65% discount simply because
there was a mistake in the weaving on the cuff. I cut off the cuffs,
restitched the sleeves and wear them bracelet length or rolled.

Antique and second hand shops; Army-Navy

yard

sales; flea

markets, are treasure troves

stores;

garage and

challenging market-

places filled with collectibles at attractive prices. These haunts have

for years and are now being
shopped by the young because of the collector's type items
which can be found. Crystal prisms from old chandeliers make
sparkling earrings and pendants. Look for antique mesh or beaded
handbags for evening. If the handbag is badly worn, buy it anyway.
The frames, made usually of silver, bone or tortoise, are of great
value. Make new pouches for antique frames out of velvet, brocade,
silk or any scrap of exotic fabric.
Old tuxedo jackets which may be bought for as little as two dollars
make sensational boleros when the tails are cut off and the bottom
resewn. Even if you cannot do this type of tailoring, a tailor can, and
the cost is far less than what a new, silk bolero would be. Feather
boa, antique fans, hair combs, stick pins, all make interesting accessories. Old draperies with beautiful silk fringes, or any silk velvet you
find, can be made into long or short evening capes. There is no velvet

been

known by money-wise women

actively

214

Getting The

Most For Your Money

around today which compares to the lushness of the old silk velvets.
Don't worry if it looks old. There is a beautiful patina on older
velvets, silks, and leathers that make a true fashion statement when
worn. Some things really look better as they get older and develop
just look at Paul Newman, Charles Bronson,
fading and wrinkles
.

James Coburn and Sean Connery!

Old petticoats and ruffled slips in

combed

fine,

cottons trimmed

with lace, coordinated with batiste camisoles, ballet slippers and

slender satin ribbons in a

Degas-look for a

summer

young woman's

hair create a fragile,

evening. If the slips have turned yellow,

dye them and wear them with an undershirt. Add a stretch belt or
a colorful cummerbund and you have an outfit!
While the two previous ideas are for the young, no matter what
age you are, you can modify any look for the stage of life you now
enjoy. Those who have saved items from the 20's; 30's; 40's and 50's

now

find that

classics.

Now

young people seek them

is

them, wear them or

No

sell

it,

Use

them!

matter what your age,

cannot afford

out, avidly collecting these

the time to bring collectibles out of the closet!

shop the

if

you are looking for

resale stores.

Some

wardrobes four times a year and regularly

sell

quality, but

wealthy people change

their clothes to second-

hand shops.
Just after the war,

married a handsome, elegant

man who was

descended from Russian royalty. His mother, Anna, the youngest

daughter was the only survivor of a distinguished noble line.
Anatasia-like, and against her will, she was spirited from Southern
Russia to safety in Turkey by a young man who worked as a gardener

on the family

estate

and who adored her from afar

for years.

He

married her and though they had four children she

refused to acknowledge his presence, seldom speaking to him directly. She never truly accepted her life as a commoner and raised

saved her

life,

her two sons to be the noblemen they would have been in Russia.

Both men reflected their mother's aristocratic teachings with superb,

manners and demeanor, as well as a penchant for only the
best in life which neither could afford.
My husband, Michael, was the elder son. He was the assistant
manager of an exclusive hotel in New York City and had to maintain
an extensive and handsome wardrobe. It was he who introduced me
to second-hand shopping. His silk and wool hand-tailored suits;
gallant

herringbone overcoats; fur trimmed stormcoats; pima cotton

shirts;

215

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

silk

ties,

beaver

felt

Homburgs and Derby's were from

Finchley's, Countess Mara's, Sak's

and other

Sulka's,

but he
bought them all in tucked-away shops scattered through the city,
spending only a fraction of their true value.
Once our children came, Michael could not face up to the responsibility of a family and in 1949 when our sons were less than two and
three years old, he walked out and I have never heard from him
since. I had to return to work instantly. Maintaining a fulltime job
fine stores

and two pre-school children in that era was not easy. To save money,
I shopped second-hand for my clothes and the children's for years
... for one person's discard is another's treasure!

MAIL ORDER SHOPPING

is a tradition in the United States from the
Roebuck when its hefty catalogs were as much a
America as the family Bible, to today's elegant, beauti-

Mail order shopping

early days of Sears

part of rural

produced pieces which feature sable coats, million dollar con-

fully

dominiums and

helicopters.

With a gallon of

gasoline soaring to

where it too may soon be featured in the Neiman-Marcus catalog,

buying through the mails will become increasingly popular.
People busy with burgeoning careers and family demands who do
not have time to shop enjoy sinking into an easy chair to peruse
handsome, enticing catalogs, but mail order shopping can be risky.
Often the articles advertised are overpriced and disappointing. I have
found that merchandise ordered from well known store catalogs is of
better quality than that ordered from those firms which are merely
mail order houses.

Most major department

stores

today issue

catalogs in addition to the annual Christmas book,

well

known

sales

and these offer

labels at substantial savings. Generally mail order items

more than what you pay in stores and you also pay delivery
charges. But, if you compute your time as money, plus the cost of
transportation for in-store shopping, you save shopping at home.
cost

Beware of mail order firms which advertise outlandish bargains.

sure the company you are dealing with is reputable, and if you
do not like what you receive return it for a refund.

Make

SHOP IN COMFOR T
Do

not plan a buying trip

enough time out

216

to

if you are
shop unhurriedly. If it

in a harassed state.
is

Plan

the kind of day in which

Getting The

Most For Your Money

the baby-sitter has run off with the paperboy, or the boss really

means, "Just an hour for lunch, please," put it off.

Plan enough time not only to shop, but to coordinate color and
accessories. You might also have to arrange for alterations. With
time to shop, explore other sections in the store to seek out unusual,
cost-saving finds. You might chance upon a fantastic, slinky evening
dress in the lingerie department!
soles

and

slitted slips

Why

not lacetrimmed satin cami-

worn with boa or open

silk shirts

doubling as

jackets?

Or take a plunge in the swimwear department and surface with

swim suit and skirt coordinates which double as evening wear under
a tropic moon. Leotards and satiny halter-shorts sets are great sea-

much less than bathing suits.

Good savings are found in children's and teen's sections. If you are
tiny why not shop there for classic separates such as shirts, sweaters,
dressing and cost so

skirts

and

Many

blazers.

prefer to

buy pants,

especially jeans, in boys'

and men's

departments. Men's pants have more pockets and alterations are free.

and hats in boys' and men's departments are

odd items in departments other than
where you would ordinarily find them. You may save money and find
interesting ways to wear new ideas.
Shirts, sweaters, vests

excellent buys. Explore for

Wear comfortable

shoes while shopping, even

if

they do not flatter

you. Carry an extra pair for trying on clothes which require a higher
heel, or for a later social

If you intend to match a color

make
match with you. And

engagement.

or pattern, take the item you wish to

sure you carry a roomy, zippered pocketbook.

No

tiny clutches or

super elegant purses which can easily be stolen while shopping.

You

need a secure, work-a-day, zippered handbag that you keep with you,
tucked to your side or on your shoulder, in sight at all times. It is

how skillful pickpockets are! I had my purse pilfered at a

major store and discovered it only when a woman exclaimed, "Your
handbag is open." It surely was, and my wallet was gone! I could not
believe it had happened. There was no bumping, no sensation, nothing! Since then I always shop with a zippered bag and keep it tucked
incredible

close.

Dress for shopping as

if

mirrors and glaring lights do

your psyche depended on it! Unkind

to help your self-esteem. How can

little

anyone have a confident, positive attitude about themselves when

they stand, sans makeup, hair disheveled, undone, before a three-way

217

"I Haven't
mirror? Especially
styles give

you a

when a gorgeous vendeuse

dressed in the latest

pitying smile.

Look

as attractive as

bolsters

your self-image,

ous and helpful.

a Thing To Wear!"

you can when shopping

it

for

results in salesclerks being

not only

it

more

courte-

Why salespeople play the "put-the-customer-down-

game" puzzles me. They should enjoy helping customers. While

some customers can be selfishly demanding and arrogant, and clerks
are put upon and harassed, there is no excuse for the supercilious
power plays some of them pull.
Living and working in the country tends to keep me in jeans and
sweaters.

Sometimes

have "just-run-into-town-for-something" and

noted an unexpected sale in the local store.

treated

how

when

am

differently

dressed deshabille'e and

feel! I

avoid mirrors. If

How

when
I

I am
my best, and

differently

look

spot anyone

know,

head the other way!

CONCENTRATE ON YOUR PURPOSE

AND SHOP WITH CONFIDENCE
Try not
for

to be diverted by having lunch with a friend, or stopping

an unexpected Cuisinart demonstration. Keep your mind on your

Head directly for those departments you have browsed

which you know contain what you want. Finish shopping for what
is on your written list first, before you allow for delightful diversions
such as Trigere fashion shows or tea in the Trellis Room.
Unless you have a longstanding relationship with the person
waiting on you, do not ask for their opinion concerning what you
want to buy. It makes you vulnerable and you have no idea of what
their day has been. They could be very helpful and honest and then
agenda.

again, they
cally,

may want

to get rid of

own

your gut feelings.

you know is best
budget!

is

fast as possible. Realisti-

to get a sale over with as

on to the next person. You have by now

on what's best for you. Depend on
Have confidence in your decisions and buy what
for your figure, your face, your needs and your

quickly as possible and go

established your

218

you as

recognize that a salesperson's job

expertise

"

Getting The

Most For Your Money

LEARNING SALES LINGO HELPS

the difference between "Reduced for Clearance, " "Special Purchase, " "Job Lots" and "Draw Lines" helps you determine

Knowing

whether you are

really saving

"Reduced for Clearance"

merchandise

money.

is

way

the best

at the lowest possible price.

to

buy good quality

When

browsing or shop-

always pays to investigate a "reduced for clearance" section.

merchandise the buyer wishes to clear away, to make room
for new lines. You will find odd sizes and colors, whatever is left over
ping

it

This

is

from regular stock. Unless it is marked "as is, " it will be perfectly
good merchandise provided you can find your size and the style you
like. If you wait, "reduced for clearance" items keep nosediving.
At the beginning of a sale, merchandise may be marked down
20-25%. As the sale progresses and the goods do not move, the
markdowns escalate and discounts can soar to 75% and more! Waiting for larger discounts is risky. You might not get the item at all.

The way

to play this waiting

game

is

to scan the sales items. If there

seems to be a good supply in a number of sizes, styles and colors,

wait, they will be reduced even more. If, however, there is very little
stock left and what you want is truly special, grab it while you can.

Be leery of items that bear the signs

"drastically reduced.
Reduced from what? Check to make sure that it is indeed a sales
item, and not a "special purchase, " which are goods bought at close.

outs specifically to draw you into a store.

lines" are what the name signifies; special items put on sale
you into the store. To cash in on "draw lines" you have to
be there early and be part of a milling mob. While "special purchases"
and "draw lines" can be good value, they are not generally first class
merchandise which has been reduced to make way for new goods.

"Draw

to bring

Many "draw

lines"

and

"special purchases" are not the regular line

is. " Somemore than he intended. Other times a

of merchandise, but neither are they "seconds" or "as

times a manufacturer has cut

major account has cancelled an order leaving the manufacturer with

on hand. These are the items which become "special purchases" and "draw lines. " If they are seconds or irregulars it must be
extra goods

stated as such.

219

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

"Job lots" are most often found in bargain basements and discount
"Job lots" and those goods bought for "draw lines" and

stores.

"special purchases" are similar.

amount of stock which has been

Always check items you buy when it is a "job

"Job lots" represent a substantial

bought

at a close-out.

lot" sale, because the merchandise can be either perfect or irregular.

"Regularly Priced"

may mean merchandise marked

nally that the sales figure represents the actual value

Be wary

also of "Selling at Cost. "

No

so high origi-

and not the

can stay in
he constantly sells at cost. "Going out of Business" and
"Fire Sales'* may be genuine sales, or sales of shoddy merchandise
to draw you in. For these types of sales knowing the store and its
reputation is important. "Made to Sell For" is another sales gimmick. The way to stay ahead of this ploy is to know your labels,

discount.

business

fabrics

"/

retailer

if

and

quality.

Can Get

It

For You Wholesale. " Unless you have a personal

known manufacturer, wholesale buying is actubuying of generally average merchandise at the normal

contact with a well

ally retail

retail price.

When you buy

wholesale there are no return privileges,

often you cannot try the merchandise on,

to

what the manufacturer wants

to

and the

selection

is

limited

sell.

IRREGULARS:

Save substantially and regularly by buying irreguwhich do not make a fashion statement. If you need
cycling or gardening what does it matter if they have a

lars in clothes

trousers for

misweave? Hoisery, underwear, lingerie, pajamas, nightgowns, shirts

and other such items wear just as well in irregulars. Irregulars sales
are frequently advertised. Shop them to save. Wear irregular panty
hose under slacks and save good quality hosiery for dresses and suits.
Sometimes the irregularity is so barely visible that only you know it
is

there.

Some years ago I came across an Oleg Cassini dress in the specialty
shop at the Greenbrier Hotel in White Sulphur Springs. I do many
shows

Greenbrier and

shopping resort stores because they

The low price tag intrigued me.
The sales clerk then pointed out an irregularity in the geometric
print, whose vividness had caught my eye. There was a misprint on
at

like

feature styles not available locally.

the underside of the sleeve.

It

Are not misprints valuable

220

was barely

visible. I

to collectors?

bought the Cassini.

Getting The

Most For Your Money

BUY OUT OF SEASON:

image and make you
realistic.

You may

Inexpensive, cheap clothes destroy your

feel insecure,

gage, or a single parent. Perhaps

You might

unimportant. Yet one need be

be young parents paying off a high interest mort-

you are just

starting out

on a career.

be a military wife, the wife of a policeman, fireman,

man, or teacher. You could be a retiree. You

might be able to afford only one or two good choices a year, if that!
steelworker, automotive

The way to solve this dilemma is

Buy shoes in January and June
chandising

Wait

for

is

to

BUY OUT OF SEASON!

at clearance sales.

Today's mer-

more frequently.
shoes and handbags. Buy

so competitive that shoe sales are held

them and save on good

leathers in

swimsuits in August, winter coats in January, and

all

other clothing

at closeout sales.

Try not
Christmas

to

buy clothes

for yourself before Christmas,

gift certificates to

and give

those you love. After the holidays they

can almost double their value by shopping during after-Christmas

people who regularly return Christmas gifts and take
which they use after the holidays. Shopping in-sale and
out-of-season enables you to buy better clothes and get the most for
your money.
sales. I

know

credit slips

221

u
On

The Move

Light Hearted

And

Seems

Lightweight

been on the move

I've

to travel until

my

poor families had

thirties.
little

all

my

Growing up

opportunity to

life,

although

did not begin

in the depression, children of

test their

wings.

The yen

to

was a dream I spun as I leafed through

endless copies of the National Geographic in our neighborhood liwas strong, but

travel

it

brary.
Reality for me was not glamorous Bon Voyage parties on the
Normandie with caviar, champagne and chocolates. A nickle bought
me a ride on the Staten Island Ferry and New York's harbor became
my North Atlantic and penny candy my stateroom treat. The Ninth
Avenue elevated was my 20th Century Limited as I went "downtown" each Saturday to meet my mother, who was off work at noon.
I was only six years old, but a seasoned veteran of New York City's
trains

and

The

ferries.

long,

low whistles of northbound freighters as they snaked

along the Hudson, the sharp no-nonsense hoots of oceangoing liners

stacked along West Street's piers called to me. At fourteen I polished
planes at Floyd Bennett Field for flying lessons and fantasized being
Amelia Earhart. At fifteen I signed on as cook's helper on a freighter
bound for the Orient, but my ever watchful mother found out my
plans just before we cast off (thank goodness) and prevented fantasy
becoming tragedy because war was declared just two weeks later. At
sixteen

222

tried to join the

WAAF's,

those courageous

women who

On

the

Move

Light Hearted and Lightweight

Europe, but one had to be twenty-one, and by that

in New York's incomparable theatre and the
anyplace ten miles west of Broadway,
thought
I
Canteen,
Stage Door
ferried planes to

time

was so immersed

wasteland.
It

was not

TO WEAR!"

I began to perform in "I HAVEN'T A THING

1958 that the world of travel opened to me. Since

until
in

I have flown in all kinds of weather to every major city in the

United States and to towns so rural, the only way in is by two-seater
Cessna and then an auto. And the six Hershey Bar flights I have
known! Mountain waves and the plane dropping 2,000 feet, fogged

then

Pennsylvania and turning back to Pittsburgh after three

approaches could not find a runway hidden by ceiling zero,
Dodge City, Kansas and the pilot taking evasive action as a tornado
suddenly swirled off the port engine; despite all this, I am ready to
in Oil City,

tree top

take off at anytime!

My

West was in 1960. I had completed 150 shows since

and had given birth to my daughter in October, 1959. That was the year of the chemise and audiences were never
sure if I was or I wasn't. I had always dreamed of camping my way
west with the boys, but I had never been able to take a summer off.
With a new baby it seemed that if we did not do it then, we never
first trip

the previous September

I set off June 19th with my dear friend Wanda Getter, Jeff
and Jonathan who were 11 and 13 years old, and a bright, seven
month old cherub who by the time the trip was over recognized every
ice cream and gasoline sign from Pennsylvania to California.
Wanda's husband and mine, both of whom hated camping and
disliked auto travel even more, made bets we would be back in a
week. We were on the road thirteen weeks and covered more than
13,000 miles, at first camping in a tent, and then in a trailer which
we bought enroute. It was such an incredible experience, we set forth
again in 1962, this time through the northern tier of the United
States headed to the Seattle World's Fair. We would have gone on to
Alaska except that I had to return early for a fall lecture season.
Being on the move is when one must muster all the organizational
talents one has, recognizing that comfort and convenience are essential, and most importantly, learning to travel as light as possible. Our
1960 trip almost ended five days out, because I took too much,

would.

including a typewriter

intended to use each evening after the tent

was pitched

to record the day's adventures. I faced

bleak, rainy

morning

in

up to reality one
Kentucky, packed the typewriter and many

223

/ Haven V a Thing To Wear

we began to
work to pare my travel needs. I am always
take too much and I keep trying to lighten the load.

other non-essentials and shipped them home. After that

enjoy the journey.

unhappy

if I

I still

No matter where you

home

or

travel,

even

if it is

only a day trip into town,

for a short holiday stay, the cardinal rule

is

to be comforta-

and to look attractive. I'll never understand why some people

disembark in cities noted for their culture, their sophisticated ambience, looking as though they've just fallen out of bed, in outfits more
ble

suited to spring cleaning than to strolling Fisherman's

Wharf

or the

Via Veneto.

And

up people at airports! I will not dwell on

would seem to me that when one greets a
loved one or a guest, she would want to look her best; attractive in a
pleasant, casual way, complimenting the warm, friendly smile on her
face. I doubt that Jonathan and I shall ever forget the way Jeff
greeted us when we arrived at the Honolulu Airport for my appearances in Hawaii for the American Bankers Association meeting. Jeff
had left for Hawaii in September to work on a book, and had been
there six weeks when our plane landed in mid-October. He wore
white bathing shorts, thongs, a deeply bronzed tan, and six lush,
fragrant lei around his neck. His hair, golden from the sun, gleamed
against the magenta, purple, white, yellow, and red of the orchids,
plumeria, and carnations which made up the heavy, beautifully
strung garlands. Not a costume for New York or San Francisco, but
absolutely perfect for Hawaii and as he loped to us and draped the
leis about our shoulders every head turned. His was a Hawaiian
greeting true to tradition and one which had disappeared along with
the Matson liners.
the people picking

the sights I've seen, but

it

You can
fort

be casual, chic and comfortable at the same time! Comneed not be equated with looking rumpled and shabby, patched

jeans splitting, and plaid shirts flopping over waistbands. Knits,

crease-resistant cotton or silk blends, soft, sheer wools, eased, softly-

wash and wear, make for handensembles assuring you of elegance no matter how long
the journey. A turban, silky head wrap, beret or cloche keeps hair
in place (or hidden) and affords an extra touch which adds distincflowing dresses, skirts, and suits in

some

tion

travel

and

prestige.

A good travel wardrobe should include both natural and synthetic

materials. Natural fibers breathe

224

and drape

better, especially

when

On

the

Light Hearted and Lightweight

Move

weather gets hotter. But to be practical about the care and appearance of clothes while traveling, look for garments with a small
percentage of synthetic fibers which will discourage wrinkles and

make maintenance

easier.

Trousers are

terrific,

but not as good as

because if pants are cut properly, they hug your

figure and begin to bind when you sit in them for a long period of
time. Bias cuts, eased A-lines in skirts and dresses are more comfortskirts for traveling,

able. Separates, shirtwaist dresses, two-piece knit suits are

when on

the move.

Add

super

a belt, scarf or jewelry for a variety of looks.

How I would love to leave on a trip as my friend Joan once did.

Dashing into my office late one Friday afternoon, with a wicked glint
in her eye, she said, "Do you mind if I leave early, I'm flying to
Puerto Rico at six!"

"Wow!"

exclaimed,

"when did you decide

"Five minutes ago," she laughed, "when

this?"

Norman phoned and

asked me."

"You won't have

time to get

home and pack

in

Friday traffic,"

cried.

"Don't be

silly,"

she sang out gaily, waving the toothbrush she

took from her desk drawer, "I'm leaving from here,

need when

That's going in

way

style!

For those who can afford

to travel, but for the rest of us

and how

to

I'll

buy what

get there!"

pack

it,

Consider climate

the following

first

who

is

it,

it is

the ideal

agonize over what to wear

intended.

when planning what

to take.

The mean

your best guide. Ask your

travel agent for this information. Other factors create variable
weather conditions in places of identical latitudes so be aware of:
altitude, humidity, and the closeness to oceans, and large bodies of
water whose breezes and currents affect local conditions.
The second consideration are the customs and ambience of the city
or country you are visiting. Its mood is set by traditions and history
temperature of where you plan to

visit is

which mold its character and those of its people. Cities such as New
York, San Francisco, Dallas, Chicago, Washington, D.C., Boston,
Atlanta, London, Tokyo, Copenhagen, Paris, Rome, Brussels, Stockholm, Amsterdam, Vienna, Mexico City, Rio, Buenos Aires, Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver have a formality and air of sophistication
which call for on-the-town clothes rather than casual sports clothes.
Los Angeles, Miami, Kansas City, Phoenix, Portland, Seattle, Houston, Winnipeg, New Orleans are more casual. Colors in cities and

225

/ Haven V a Thing To Wear

countries vary. While brightly colored silks

may be

sensational in the

Far East, India and Los Angeles, a more subdued color is better in
London and Madrid. Latin countries have a long tradition of conservatism and strict social decorum, and black
ion color, but black in San Diego

is

an important fash-

is

out of sync.

Do

not

make

the

mistake that because you are on vacation, you can wear vacation type

and slacks in a metropolis. I've often

wondered how the men and women tourists I've seen in major cities
wearing shorts would feel if tourists dressed as they visited their
home town. Few people would go downtown in their own cities in
shorts or shirts hanging out over sloppy pants, why then do they
stroll streets in major cities in such poor taste?
Good manners are important everywhere and at all times, and it
is rude to dress with disrespect for a country, its customs and its
people. Dress in every city as if it were your own, in clothes which
make you feel attractive, comfortable and confident.
The third and major consideration are the clothes you plan to take.
Are they comfortable? Are they convenient? Will they travel easily?
It is best not to go out and buy special clothes for a trip, unless you
are planning to go on safari or attempt an assault on Mt. Everest.
It is more fun to save all you can for shopping on your journey,
buying little treasures in the places you visit. At one time, clothes
bought abroad were less expensive than what one would find in
comparable fabrics and quality in the States, but no longer. Your best
sports clothes such as shorts

buys are

United States, but there are special items indigenous

which are good fashion investments if you can
mentioned some of these items in the section dealing

in the

to various countries
afford

it.

We

with ethnic clothes.

In connection with ethnic clothes, a semblance of an ethnic look
as accent

on the clothes you wear

is fine,

but do not dress totally in

the obviously ethnic dress of the country you

seem pretentious. The

local people

resent your attempt to simulate

know you

what

to

because you may

American and may

visit,

are

them are not costumes, but

every-day garb.

Your

need for any journey.

undoubtedly so. If your
lifestyle is rural and completely casual you might have to add a few
items, but begin first with what is in your closet and dresser drawers.
Do not change your basic style for a trip. You are what you are,
you know what you feel most comfortable in, and a journey which
If

you

closet probably contains all

live in

can be arduous

226

you

or near a major city, this

is

really
is

not a time to create a totally different you. Select

On

the

Move

Light Hearted and Lightweight

your favorites, those clothes which have always done the best for
figure, face and varying moods. Employ the concepts

your

COMFORT

CONTOUR

dination to expand and

COLOR

CLASSICS

coor-

better use of a travel wardrobe.

make

and use the scarf and coordination ideas

Remember
suggested, and most of all, work with color!
Choose one or two neutral shades as your basic wardrobe and
splash other colors and shapes with accessories. My favorite travel
colors are black and white. I find this combination suitable in any
city, any country, any time. Working with one or two neutral shades
enables you to limit accessories in shoes and handbags which weigh
to include

the most.

and white

If black

is

not your

style, try taupe, beige,

other earth tones. Whatever basic color you choose,

camel and

it is

far easier

one or two shades than to take a number of

might require their own accessories.
colors
which
unrelated
to coordinate with

Consider climate when choosing colors and fabrics. Lighter colors,

and lightweight fabrics are for warm, sunny

and wools, both lightweight and sturdy, are
for northern climates. No matter where you travel, even if it is to
Miami in August or India in September, take a sweater or shawl for
evening. Air conditioning, ocean breezes and desert winds make
sweaters and shawls advisable.
bright sunny shades

places.

To
rules

Deeper

rich tones

dress for daytime in cities

you would adhere to

in

over the world follow the same

any American metropolis. Wear

all

smartly tailored, crease-resistant suits in lightweight wools, cotton or

silk blends,

two piece

skirts, jackets

silk

or wool knits, layered separates of blouses,

or vests, simply cut, classic dresses. Coordinate with

the appropriate accessories

too straight and tight.

enable you to climb

and accents.

You need

Do

not choose clothes cut

fashions that walk with comfort and

stairs. Select skirts

with eased bias cuts, A-lines,

inverted kick pleats and other type pleats. Clothes that

move

freely

with your body and give you a sense of freedom are more attractive

than tight

fits

which tend

to ride

up and crease through the waist and

hip.
If

you

are traveling in early spring, late

fall

or winter to

north temperate zone include two dresses of sheer wool.

cities in

the

One might

be cut low at the neck and be sleeveless or with short sleeves, and
have a cover-up jacket. The other could be long-sleeved. If these
dresses are uncluttered, understated,

and are of a darkish

color, they

227

/ Haven V a Thing To Wear

can be worn for sightseeing or business by day and with just a slight

change of accessories become ideal changelings for after five.

Always pack a simply beautiful, simply cut silk dress that flows
liquidly, sheathing your body in luxury and softness. Choose a rich,
medium shade that flatters your skin and you have a perfect dress
for late afternoon engagements or dinner at someone's home, as well
as a short evening dress for theatre and night clubbing. If your plans
include a number of evenings on the town, take a long evening skirt
with which you can wear daytime

silk shirts, scarves,

sequined tube

tops and other separates.

you are planning a 21-day "if this is Tuesday, it must be Belgium

you may have to pack for a range of climates. Lightweight wool
worsted is a nomad's best friend, and desert dwellers have worn
lightweight wool burnooses for centuries to shield them from hot sun
and to keep them warm when desert temperatures plunge at night.
If

trip"

Wool does not wrinkle, it holds its shape, affords warmth in chilling
damp and is cooler than synthetics when the sun blazes. Lightweight
wool, and sleeveless cotton or cotton blend dresses with

work

or a sweater

well in

warm, sunny

places. Unless

little

jackets

you are going

to Russia, Eastern Europe, or Scandinavia in winter or skiing in the

Alps, leave furs at home. Cloth coats are

are

handy and the

classic

more

versatile, as are lined

summer, unlined all-weather coats

trench coat in black, cut with great flair and

trenchcoats in cold climate. If

it is

can be used after-dark.

style,

Pack

lightly

and

travel light-heartedly.

How carefree it is to travel

under the seat and forget about

waiting in baggage claim. Better yet, when you arrive your luggage
is with you
not off to Nome as you disembark in New Orleans.
And
you save money on tips when you carry one small case.
Should you be traveling standby to save additional money, and
you do not make the flight, you need not haul heavy suitcases back
and forth. Traveling lightly gives you mobility, you can change your
mind about where you want to go and how, instantly!
with one compact case! Slide

it

The "duffle" wardrobe for a two week

packed into a case 9" X 14" X 22" which
(sketch 63):

two pair pants

two skirts: one

228

dressy,

one tailored

trip
fits

anywhere can be
under

airline seats

Light Hearted and Lightweight

On

the

one
two
one
two
one

dressy blouse

Move

shirts

cardigan sweater
T-shirts

dress

three silk scarves in varying sizes

one lightweight Qiana type robe to sleep in or lounge poolside

one bathing suit (Danskin type can double for dancin') and rubber
thongs (double as slippers)

two or three sets of underwear and hosiery

one pair sandal style dressy shoes
one small clutch bag, preferably one that folds

flat

travel umbrella, cosmetics

Let loose with

all

your coordinating

skills to

assemble a one case

wardrobe. Your educated eye, and your talent for combinations will
create compatible outfits. Blend
that are a cinch to care for.

and contrast

Wear an

Choose fabrics
on board
a wool blazer, skirt,

colors.

outfit of separates

which coordinate with what is in the case such as

and perhaps a vest or another light, pull-over sweater.
Fling a lightweight raincoat over your arm in a glossy, colorful fabric
or a traditional neutral. Take a couple of good books and a small
camera which you can stow in the raincoat pocket. Shoulder a
sturdy, roomy, zippered bag. Wear comfortable walking shoes, and
you are off, lightweight, lighthearted, ready to have the greatest time
of your life.
If you are one who cannot feel secure on a journey unless you
travel with a lot of clothes, the following wardrobe offers a number
of options and is suitable anywhere. The weights are approximate,
and the articles proposed, along with your suitcases (you will need
two), still weigh less than 44 pounds.
shirt, belt

1
1

lightweight wool suit

silk

3 lbs.

or silk blend suit

\Vi

2 dresses

lbs.

3 lbs.

cashmere slipover type sweater

lightweight wool cardigan sweater

Vi lb.

blouses

lbs.

lbs.

2 shirts (one of which doubles as bathing suit topper)

1

extra skirt (long or short, but dressy)

3 pair shoes:

one pair walking shoes with medium,

lb.

lb.

heel,

229

Sketch 63

230

Sketch 63

Duffle Wardrobe

231

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!'

VA

one pair dressy shoes, one pair sports shoes

bathing suit (two if you swim a lot)
4 pair underpanties and bras

lbs.

slips,

2 camisoles

2 lightweight foundation briefs

if

lb.

lb.

Vi lbs.

you wear them, or you

might prefer control top panty hose

/4

lb.

nightgown

!/2

lb.

lightweight robe

lb.

(which can double for beach)

6 pair hosiery: 3 pair daytime shades and weights, 3 evening

sheers
1

all

(if legs tire easily

take support hose)

2 hats: one rain or storm hat; one

all

or turban. If you will be in sunny,

climates, include
lb.

4 scarves of varying

wool or

lbs.

purpose beret, cloche

warm

a beach hat

lb.

/4

weather or lightweight wool coat

challis

Vi lb.

sizes

shawl

lb.

2 belts

Vi lb.

pair casual pants

lb.

pair well tailored trousers that coordinate with suits

lb.

tote, large enough to contain

you carry aboard. A medium size, zippered
shoulderbag for sightseeing which blends with your walking shoes and brightens the neutral shades of your wardrobe. In summer, this bag could be of straw or bright
fabric; in fall and winter it could be russet or burgundy
leather. A dressy clutch that packs flat and is of leather,

handbags: a sturdy, zippered

all

that

silk

or other fabric, for evening.

lbs.

umbrella

Vi lb.

cosmetics and toiletries

lbs.

be
The above weighs approximately 34 pounds. Since you would
of the pair of
wearing one of the outfits, possibly your suit, and one
toiletries,
and
cosmetic
with
bag
tote
and
coat
shoes, carrying your
pounds.
than
25
less
packing
be
you would

Vacationing

at a resort or taking a cruise enables

you to enjoy

all

Since you
the dressy and resort wear you may own or wish to buy.
much as
as
pack
hotels,
of
out
and
will not be hefting suitcases in

you want. Extended cruises

232

offer the

opportunity to wear

all

the

On

the

Light Hearted and Lightweight

Move

glamorous collectibles you've stashed and have little chance to use.

While there is no baggage allowance on ships, there is a space problem (with the exception of first class on the QE2). Depending on who
you share your cabin with, you may have to travel light or sleep with
some of your clothes!

To
rates

and

climatize clothes for variable

and

fickle weather, use sepa-

layering. Layering not only gives

you the warmth or

adds and subtracts for dressy or casual

needs. Coordinate travel wardrobes to make the fullest use of

coolness you want,

it

separates.

The bag you

comfortable

and

carry

flight:

toiletries to

on board should contain

all

you need for a

a pair of soft slippers, or slipper socks, cosmetics

freshen

up

(especially moisturizers to counteract the

drying effect of pressurized cabins), any medications or vitamins you

take, a light sweater, jewelry (never

pack

it),

camera, binoculars, a

good book plus a small, insulated case containing fresh fruit, almonds or pecans and small plastic packets of raisins or sunflower
seeds.

Airline food even at best has always been "toy food" and with

have cut back on the quality and quantity of

Some "no frills" flights do not have free
meal service. You can obtain better quality food if you request a
special meal at the time you book your reservation. I find no-salt
inflation,

airlines

the food they serve.

They are fresher, less plastic and always contain

you are a die-hard for salt, the trays contain salt
and pepper packets anyway. Kosher, dietetic, vegetarian and
meals the

best.

fresh fruit. If

other special meals are generally better quality as well.

duration, connecting flights

all

you

get

is

On

short

an abysmal "snack,"

and cheese for nourishment. Protect

your health and energies while you travel because becoming ill on
a journey is nothing but a hassle.

therefore carry fruit, nuts

The

regulations concerning luggage weights on most overseas

Up to 70
pounds in one bag is allowed with each passenger permitted to ship
two bags for a total of 140 pounds to their destination and return.
In addition, one carry-on bag which is not included in the 140
pound allowance is permitted. This allowance is to the first overseas
stopover only. For example: you may fly from New York to Lonflights

departing from the United States are as follows:

don, connect there for a flight to Paris, connect in Paris for a flight

233

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

to

Greece and arrive

in

Athens with 140 pounds of luggage

at

no

extra charge. If you were to stop overnight in London, your lug-

gage allowance on the balance of the trip reverts to 44 pounds

economy

class,

66 pounds

first class

for all pieces including

your

carry-on bag.
If you will be visiting various cities, take no more than 44 pounds
economy, 66 pounds first class. Airline personnel in foreign countries weigh luggage assiduously. If you plan to spend two weeks
skiing in St. Anton or sunning in Rhodes, you could, if you are
hardy, cart 140 pounds to your destination. It is better to take as
little as possible and use the generous 140 pound allowance to
bring back all sorts of lovely, hand made articles, clothing and art

objects.
Skis, golf clubs

and other sporting equipment take up the allow-

ance of one 70 pound bag. Regulations allow for only one pair of

one pair of poles and one pair of boots. Avid skiers know one
and they cannily purchase double ski bags
(Rossignol makes one of the roomiest) to enclose additional equipment. I take one pair alpine skis and one pair cross-country skis
plus two sets of poles, and cross-country boots stuffed with knee
length socks in a double ski bag. I wrap either a ski jacket, ski
underwear or windshirts around the bindings to protect them and to
skis,

pair does not suffice

save additional

room

in

my

suitcase.

My

alpine boots, stuffed with

socks and mittens, are packed into a special boot bag. Ski bags
are not checked to determine

if

there are

more than one

pair in

them, and you can cram the bag with many necessities without
having to pay for overweight. It is not the weight airlines are concerned about, because today's larger planes can carry enormous
amounts; it is the space. Since a ski bag takes just so much space,
stuffed or unstufFed,

it

will pass.

When

take golf clubs

pockets of the bag with shoes, socks, golf gloves,

balls,

I fill

hand

the

towel,

etc.

Place identification tags inside your suitcase as well as on lug-

gage

tags. If

your suitcase

ribbon or put a decal on

is
it,

not easily identifiable,

tie

a colorful

so that you can easily pick

it

from others coming down the carousel. Remove old routing

show how many

out

tags.

Some people

love to save these to

been, but

confuses confused baggage handlers even more, so

take

them

Few

234

it

places they've

off.

people read the notice of baggage

liability limitations

which

On
is

the

Move

Light Hearted and Lightweight

printed on the back of every airline ticket.

limitations

on the

carry yearly travel insurance.

when bought per

costly

Nor do

they read the

loss of life or injury. If they did, they

trip.

The type you buy

Yearly insurance

is

at airports

would
is

too

more comprehen-

sive and less expensive. It is also wise to purchase additional baggage insurance. Baggage on overseas flights is weighed for insurance purposes, because baggage is insured by the pound, not by the
piece. For most international flights, which includes any domestic

portions of the international journey, the allowance

is

approxi-

mately $9.07 per pound, which means that if your 44 pound of

checked luggage is lost, you will receive approximately, $399.08.

Unchecked baggage (your on-board possessions) is insured up to

$400.00 per passenger. If you carry aboard a Nikon camera and
lenses and something happens to them you've blown the insurance
allowance.

On

the limitation

have lower

domestic

wholly between U.S. points)

flights (travel

$750.00 per passenger on most carriers, but some

is

limits, so

it is

important to check.

Baggage insurance costs little in comparison to the trauma one has

when luggage and possessions are lost. Making a claim for lost
luggage is annoying and time consuming, therefore keep all receipts
on what you buy so that you will have them in case it is necessary
to make any insurance claims.
Losing my luggage would be disastrous for me, because my entire show is packed in one 26 inch suitcase, and while I could carry it
off, not having the clothes and accessories to highlight the program
would be disappointing to an audience. I believe the reason I have not
ever arrived for a

road

is

because

show without my

check

it

suitcase in all

through to the

my

years

final destination,

on

the

only if it

is

making a change, / do not change airlines.

Since most of my flights require a number of changes, I check my
bags point-to-point and pick them up at each stop and personally
transfer them to the next carrier. It is a hassle, but worth it. Every

a non-stop

flight, or if

person taking a trip should invest in a folding, wheeled, luggagecarrier. It takes

when

very

little

room,

racing through airports to

is light,

make

a trip abroad do not go without one.

covers what you spend

on a

easy-to-handle and superb

close connections. If

The money you

you plan

save on tips

carrier.

235

"I Haven't a Thing To

Wear!"

CONVENTIONS, MEETINGS, SEMINARS

The

fashion needs of

seminars vary as

much

women

season. Ninety percent of

meet

women from

attending conventions, meetings and

as the places in

my

18 to 80

which they are held and the

appearances are at such events and

who

fall

The woman attending with her husband whose

a)

into three categories:

participation,

while primarily social, has a business purpose in the personal contact

and exchange of experiences which strengthen business

relation-

ships.

b)

The woman who goes to conventions and meetings as a participant

attending business sessions, and whose social contacts are purposefully business oriented.

c)

The woman,

young
company.

generally a

exhibit area for her

executive,

The woman attending a convention

clothes that suit the

many

on duty

may

booth and

as pure pleasure should

social functions

programmed

ings; cocktail parties, visits to hospitality suites,

banquet. Also there

in the

pack

into meet-

and the annual

be a luncheon with a speaker such as

and possibly a tour which will take her away from the hotel
most of the day. Often these tours are combined with time for
shopping. If the convention is in a resort area she will want sports
clothes, bathing suits and pants outfits. Many times meetings in
major cities are followed by three or four day side trips to resorts and
resort cities. A flexible wardrobe which affords variability will enable
myself,

for

her to create outfits for both.

The

classic

standby s of cleverly coor-

dinated separates offer the best choice. Since her function at the

meeting
colors.

is

social,

Even

if

she can wear more relaxed lines and brighter

she attends business meetings to hear particular

speakers, she can put together a handsome, understated outfit from

her classic coordinates.

The woman who attends a meeting as pure business would

wear more businesslike clothes for daytime events, and softly
feminine, dressy clothes for the social functions.

To maintain

her

prestige, she should avoid evening clothes that are too bold, too

236

On

the

Light Hearted and Lightweight

Move

The chapter which

brash or too decollete.

how

image

to create a positive fashion

follows offers ideas on

for business. Since conven-

tions are a time for important business contacts the fashion state-

ment you make

at a

meeting should be pleasing, and

instill confi-

dence.

The young woman on duty

in her

company's booth or

exhibit,

should deftly balance subtlety with a dash of color and verve. She
salesperson,

people visiting the exhibit,

greeting

company's products and

describing

is

her

She needs to reflect enthusiasm,

an aura of reliability and dignity.
Trade exhibits are very competitive with hundreds of companies
offering wares and services. You want prospective clients to remember your company and you. Wear a unique touch, an accent
that is unforgettable and in good taste. Perhaps a flower in your
services.

brightness, cheerfulness, as well as

lapel,

or a single, smashing colorful accent such as a silk kerchief in

the pocket of your blazer; or a

warm,

rich color that highlights

your eyes in a handsome, well tailored dress. Unless your company

has a convention uniform or a particular dress code, plan to wear
something different each day so that you keep your enthusiasm
revved up. Manning a booth for

many hours

over a period of three

or four days can be boring and tiring. Clothes which

alive,

attractive

shoes in low to

and happy

medium

the booth to change

heels are essential.

off.

make you

feel

Comfortable, good quality

will help.

Keep an

After exhibit hours,

if

extra pair in

you participate

in

the social activities or are required to be in the hospitality suite,

you

Do

will

want

dressy, feminine clothes

not antagonize the wives of the

which are not too daring.

men your company

by wearing a dress cut to the bottom

deals with

line.

PACKING
If

could but accept

all

the offers

receive to help people pack,

would earn enough money to circumnavigate the globe via Concorde. Unpacking my case before an audience was a happy acciI never planned it. As a performer, I knew that one should be
prepared for an audience, but on one of my very first engagements,
my car broke down and I arrived late. I had to unpack on stage

dent.

before a very large audience of top

management

executives and

237

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

'I

their wives,

show ever

and the reaction was so

When

since.

inch case, they keep asking

behind to see
a

if I

great,

audiences see
if it

actually repack

all

have kept

that

it

has a secret bottom.

that

all

part of the

take out of one 26

Many

stay

have removed.

Knowing how to pack might be a genetic trait. My Dad packed

Model A Ford and took off on a three month cross-country camp-

My

ing trip in 1928.

son Jeff packs a car so that

it

holds as

much

Our little ski cabin, which was intended for weekend use,
has become an accordian as more and more books, paintings and
as a truck.

manuscripts inundate

The

secret to

it.

packing

around. All the

little

is

not to leave any space for clothes to

valleys

must be

filled in.

move

Softsided suitcases

should be packed so tightly the sides bulge. The other secret

is

to

compartmentalize. Put different items into plastic bags and containers so

you have what you want

instantly.

Also carry a steamer or

travel iron (with adapters for overseas) to freshen clothes.

Begin by assembling the following

aids:

tissue paper,

or dry

cleaner's plastic bags; plastic envelopes in a variety of sizes with

and without

zippers; plastic containers for cosmetics.

separate cosmetic bag which has

its

own

prefer a

containers and which

which I
place individual items so that I can easily take out whatever I need
without having to burrow through a jumble of emery boards, lipsticks, eyebrow pencils, etc. Include three or four flat plastic hangers (depending on how many suit jackets and dresses you take) and
collect Crown Royal liquor bags. They are super for shoes and
compartmentalize further with small plastic envelopes

in

jewelry!

Categorize the clothes you are taking. Separate hard, bulky items

such as shoes, handbags,

Put each category

in its

belts,

own

umbrella,

plastic case.

etc.

from the

softer articles.

Add a bit of fragrant sachet

little piece of cardboard on which you've put a drop or two of

your favorite perfume (like the cards advertising perfume enclosed

or a

with department store monthly

bills).

Stuff shoes with the pantyhose

its own sock or

Crown Royal bag. Place all heavy items in back of the suitcase so that
when the bag is picked up the heavy articles are at the bottom. If
taking belts, wind the open belt around diameter of case. Make a flat,

or stockings you wear with them. Put each shoe in

filling in valleys with odd items. Decide which clothes

you intend to wear most often and which are for special occasions.
Pack the special occasion clothes first, with the heaviest articles on
the bottom (e.g. suit jackets, sweaters, trousers).

even layer by

238

On

the

Move

Light Hearted and Lightweight

Place suit jackets and dresses on flat, plastic hangers. When you
unpack, simply hang your clothes. Many small foreign and American hotels never have enough hangers.

On

the

flat

surface you have created, place buttoned jacket, collar

towards back of case, front facing you. Place layer of tissue paper or
plastic dry cleaner's bag across jacket. Cross sleeves, turn up part

which extends over case, over the tissue or plastic.

If skirts must be folded to fit in case, fold at waist rather than hem.
If skirt creases, the fold marks will be covered by the jacket or blouse
you wear with it. Put tissue or plastic on the skirt and make fold
over

it.

If the skirt is very full or

lengthwise; fold

marks

will

has a center seam, fold in half

blend with center seams or will be camou-

flaged by the fullness of the fabric.

Place dresses on

flat, plastic hanger in case, front facing you.

and shoulders. Cross sleeves, put tissue or plastic
over dress and fold at waist to fit in case. Close all zippers and
buttons on clothes. Vary the way in which you place jackets and
dresses: jacket #1, collar to back of case; jacket #2, collar to front.
Dress #1, hem on top; dress #2, hem on bottom, etc. This makes

Smooth out

for

flat,

collar

even layers.

Make

as few folds as possible, covering the

empty spaces with small items such as

up bathing suits, rolled up plastic envelopes containing
lingerie, tissues, costume jewelry. If you have a very special suit or
dress, stuff sleeves and bodice with tissue. Keep lightest items on top.
widest area you can. Stuff

all

film, rolled

your dresses are heavier than the plastic envelopes containing

and scarves, pack the envelopes on top. If the dresses
are sheer and lightweight, pack so that only your nightgown and robe
top them. Your nightclothes and robe should be the first items available when you open your suitcase.
If

blouses, lingerie

you use a hanging

bottom with handbags and shoes.

and any extra widths to center.
Double up dresses, skirts and jackets on hangers. If you have more
than the hangers can hold, place clothes flat without putting them
on hangers. I have a handy accessory with its own hanger for my
case. It is a series of plastic pockets in which I place lingerie, scarves,
and other soft items. When I arrive at my destination, I hang it and
have everything I need at the ready, without unpacking!
If

When you hang

Some

case,

fill

clothes, fold sleeves

people like to

a filmy chiffon which

and if using a duffle this

and soft sheer dresses. I have
Another traveler I know packs

roll their clothes

works well with sweaters,

knits, jeans

always

roll.

239

"/ Haven't a Thing To

in layers.

She stands her suitcase on

its

platform, unzips the top and

places everything in layers, while the suitcase

case

is flat,

she can see

all

is

standing.

When

the

the items by color and texture. Clothes

have to be folded narrowly to pack

Pack cosmetics and

Wear!"

this

way.

toiletries into individual containers

into separate plastic bags so that

if

anything

spills

it

and then

does not ruin

your clothes. Seal bottles such as nailpolish, polish remover, mouthwash, etc. with tape. When you remove the tape to use the contents
stick

it

bottle

around the bottom, so that

it is

more than two-thirds because

always handy.

liquids

expand

Do not

fill

in altitude

any
and

will trickle out.

If you take medications or vitamins, take enough to last your entire

with a week's extra supply should there be unforeseen
Carry a supply on board in your tote in case your luggage is

journey,
delays.
lost

or delayed.

There are so many

I could not
have been using French luggage
made in Covina, California since I first went on the road. It is
expensive, but it has given me remarkable wear. I recently sent the
case I purchased in 1960 back to the factory and they reconditioned
it for about $100.00. It has strong, sturdy sides and frame with zip-

possibly cover

pered top.

it

all in

different types of luggage available,

one chapter.

Top and bottom

are flexible allowing for expansion.

It is

heavier than most soft-sided lightweights, but for extensive travel

and overseas journeys, you need a sturdy bag. Soft-sided nylons are
immensely attractive and easy to carry, but they afford little protection.

Always

and the combination locks

you do not forget your private code. I
fantasize paring the show to such degree that I could travel around
the world with naught but a knapsack, but until then I pack a light,
nylon day-pack with my luggage for unexpected jaunts and spur-ofthe-moment shopping.
Knapsacks have so many uses. Check your luggage at the hotel
and take off for a weekend jaunt into the country. For shopping they
can't be beat. Cram them with all your collectibles for the trip home.
Even the day packs are spacious.' The adventurous traveler is wise
to pack a lightweight, nylon knapsack with his or her luggage; it folds
flat into the suitcase and takes no room.
The less you take, the less you worry about what to wear! When
you have very little, necessity charges your coordinating talents and
travel with a locked suitcase,

are convenient, provided

240

On

the

Move

Light Hearted and Lightweight

you make up your mind quickly. Thus, you can concentrate on the
new experiences, rather than on
what to wear. So, set forth with as little as possible. You will then
have the space and the reason to buy whatever strikes your fancy

joys of the journey, the sights, the

enroute!

241

15
The Power

Of

Positive

Fashion Image

I was in the VIP cottage at Fort Polk that had once been used by
General Patton when Mary Ellen picked me up for a radio interview
on KLLA in Leesville, Louisiana. I was to speak later that day for

Wives Club and had agreed to do the radio

When Mary Ellen stepped from her
Mercedes her positive appearance immediately told me that here was
a smart lady, a woman of varied interests. She maintained a career,
the Fort Polk Officers'

interview before the luncheon.

as well as being a military wife.

eyes alight with enthusiasm,

Her

Mary

step quick

and confident, her

Ellen on that nippy January

morning was a perfect example of the power of a positive image. She

was handsomely put together in a navy wool jacket, muted plaid skirt
of burgundy and navy wool, burgundy blouse, burgundy leather
handbag and shoes. Her personality was as brightly engaging as her
outfit and I knew I would enjoy our time together.
I have been privileged to meet women like Mary Ellen all over the
United States, in Canada, England and Ireland. I wish I could name
them all. Women you've never heard of, whose names do not appear
in Liz Smith's column or Rona Barret's newscasts, but women with
such style, such verve, they make celebrities pale by comparison. I
am in awe how women (and you are one of them) with humor, love
and incredible fortitude take all the curve balls life throws and smash
them into the stands for home runs. The military wife in particular
deserves mention. She has been stereotyped, maligned and misunder-

242

The Power of a
stood and
that

it

came

Positive Fashion

was not
to

know

until

Image

began an extensive tour of military bases

these able, dedicated

women

as they really are:

good humored, concerned not only

about their family but the world around them, and fascinatingly, the
most attractive audiences for whom I have appeared. I find more
beautiful women amongst military wives than any other group, and
I have spoken to well over 3,000 audiences in 22 years. Their beauty
is not the hard-edged rivalry and shafting sleekness of Beverly Hills,
Palm Beach, Southampton, Park Avenue and Grosse Pointe, but
softer, kinder, more truly womanly, despite the insular, competitive
society in which they live.
And their resilience! Can you imagine uprooting your family, your
home, and moving gracefully, 15 times in 20 years? And their selfcontrol! During the Vietnam war, when I was an anti-war activist,
the military wife not only had to deal with the anguish of her husband killed, maimed, missing-in-action, or a prisoner of war, she had
accomplished, creative,

to
all

cope with the

flexible,

villification

and the

insensitivity to her position

by

those opposed to the war.

Military wives essentially are like

women

everywhere:

human

be-

by the pressures of living in an uncertain world. They

live constantly with the knowledge they are affected first in a national
emergency. Every screaming headline that you and I ignore is to
them a danger signal. And this tension makes them extraordinarily
appreciative of the times they spend with their families. They bring
ings besieged

lives, and they work hard to look

have never seen a frumpy military wife! I've seem them
overweight, underweight, older, irregularly featured and irregularly
shaped, but they are well groomed and wear clothes with flair and

a sense of gaiety to their daily

attractive. I

elan.

There are three types of career women, one of whom is not generrecognized as being a true career woman although her job demands more effort, expertise and dedication than most careers. The

ally

woman who devotes full time to a home, husband and family is a

woman whose replacement would cost over $40,000 a year.

career

Unfortunately career homemakers seldom recognize their value.

infinite number of women who prefer being full time
homemakers and have no desire for an outside job. For them the
fashion image is more relaxed. They can wear more casual clothes
and spend less money on daytime wear. When on the town shopping
or lunching, they wear freer, more eclectic fashions, bolder colors
and more varied designs. Yet the homemaker should recognize the

There are an

243

'I

power of her fashion image just

as

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

much

as the

woman

in the

com-

mercial marketplace.

The second type of

woman

falls into two categories: the

and does not plan to marry and raise
a family, and the single woman working only to mark time before
marriage. For both, their wardrobes need a dual personality; a sleek
efficient look for day, and a soft, feminine image for an active social

single person

life

who

career

loves her job

after five.

third type of career woman has the most complex situation.

She juggles a career, marriage and family, and must function in all
three areas with vitality and attractiveness. She needs a fashion
image that bolsters her throughout a busy life.

The

all three, the power of a positive fashion image makes the job
and more enjoyable. People, even the closest members of your
own family, have a totally different attitude when you look attractive,

For

easier

well

groomed and

people react to us

in charge!

emphasis on facade, but

we must

it is

a fact

are

less

who

do you

all

painfully aware of

than our

best. I

how

deplore this

we must recognize and with which

cope. People react to power!

ate of those

How

We

when we look

They

respect,

and are consider-

look important, act confident and are in charge!

establish a positive fashion image?

What we have

discussed in the book so far concerning: the importance of comfort

knowing your body; how to choose color, fabrics,

and travel; ideas for coordination and
using accessories; how to shop; how to cull your closet and establish
a system of maintenance ... all these are tools which strengthen the
power of your image.
and

classics;

clothes for special occasions

The statement you make through the language of clothing not only
what you look like on the outside, but indicates the way you
think inside. Some women dress from the outside in, using clothes
reveals

to create a person

who

does not really

exist.

Insecure

women

tend

and you can recognize them by the uncomfortable way

they behave in their clothes, by the furtive glances they cast whenever
they pass a mirror; by the way they avoid your eyes when you speak

to

do

this,

to them.

Others, content and knowing, dress from the inside out, in clothes
which express their inner feelings. Because these feelings change and
grow, these women change with ease. They are comfortable adapting

or not adapting to

244

new

trends, ready to listen, to learn, to experi-

The Power of a

Positive Fashion

ment. They create their

work

for them.

These

Image

own style ignoring designs they know do not

women meet your eyes warmly, they grasp

your hand with vigor, they smile with true

sincerity, they

cannot be

intimidated.

positive fashion

image bolsters confidence, and confidence

cre-

ates a liberated outlook. Liberation lies not in magazines, fashion or

one makes on the job.

works for you from the

feminist, or in self-help books, or in the strides

Liberation

is

in

your head, and the way

inside to the outside

shows

in the

it

way you

dress, talk, walk,

and

function.
I disagree with much of what John Molloy says in his "Dress for
Success" book. The needs of women in business are too variable for
his rigid philosophy of putting people in equal clothing so that they
are on an equal footing and one does not overshadow the other. Who

is

he kidding? Business

competitive and

is

filled

with competitive,

who cannot be confined to man-tailored,

three-piece corporate straightjackets. Any woman with moxie knows
innovative, creative people

what

is

appropriate in an

to wear,

woman
more

how can

office. If

she has to be told exactly what

she be a leader, a creative innovator?

When

seeking a job enters a corporate personnel office in clothes

suited to a Laverne

and Shirley episode, she won't

get

much

further than filling out forms anyway.

Women

in business dress as differently as

women

at

home. The

fashion atmosphere in advertising, publishing, television, movie and

showrooms, and other

which deal with the arts is freer, less structured, more eclectic
and light years apart from the "dress for success" concept. People
in these offices express themselves in a clothing language which
makes full use of individualism combined with good taste.
Those in the fashion industry have an image apart from most
others. Models, fashion magazine editors and writers, department,
theatrical offices, art galleries, interior design

offices

specialty store
signer's

and boutique personnel, manufacturer's and de-

showroom people would no sooner be caught

in a "dress for

success" stereotype than they would in last year's hemline.

What

they wear publicizes today's look and forecasts tomorrow's trends.

Women

in professional careers, corporations, banking, finance,

real estate

and other male dominated businesses are most vulnerable

Mr. Molloy's philosophy. Their clothes should reflect the dignity

and responsibility of their positions, but that does not mean they
to

have to be drab and lack individuality. There

is

no reason why a

245

'I

woman

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

cannot look feminine, pretty and businesslike. Any man

title should not be intimidated or distracted by an attractive

worth his

woman who
problem, not

performs in a dignified manner. If he

is,

that's his

hers.

Being dressed for business means looking well put together, chic,
No matter what your position, secretary,

confident and comfortable.

file

clerk or executive, dress with a touch of class. Subtlety

quality are the key

bad

taste are as

The

words for business

clothes. Boldness, blatancy

and
and

out of place in the business world as elsewhere.

better the quality of the business clothes

and accessories you

And a good

choose, the better they will look throughout the day.

business wardrobe should not bankrupt you. Earlier

we wrote of how

to skillfully blend less expensive clothes with better quality garments;

how

to create illusions with colors

and

fabrics. That's the

way

to

build and stretch an attractive business collection. Choose natural

fibers

blended with a touch of synthetics for easy care. Accessorized

with good quality handbags and leather shoes, business dressing can
be livened with the touch of a silken scarf, a dash of color, the unique

way you wear a simple gold pin. Pay close attention to being well
Some people notice shoes and handbags before they notice
anything else. One major personnel director told me he observes
shod.

men's socks and the watches they wear. A woman president confided
she makes a decision about a new employee based on their shoes and
heels, as well as the

The watch

watch.

was fascinating to me, because I had heard it

from too many people to mark it down as mere coincidence. The
jewelry you wear to a job interview is carefully scrutinized. Business
jewelry should be the best you can afford and held to a minimum.
Wear none at all, rather than something cheap. Junk jewelry destroys
an otherwise elegant, sophisticated look.
People react to you in so many different ways when you are being
interviewed for a job. Grooming and body language are as important
as the clothes you wear. The way you sit, use your hands, place your
feet, make eye contact, communicate verbally and listen, all reveal
your confidence or lack of it. Sometimes just a simple little touch
makes all the difference in the world.
I'll

business

never forget

my first interview for an advertising position. I had

not been trained for anything other than theatre and

my

when

in the fall

husband walked out and left me with two sons less than
two and three years old, I had to find work immediately and acting
of 1949

246

The Power of a

Positive Fashion

Image

had only twenty-five cents the morning

I had few office skills, I decided I would
seek something creative and found a promising ad under "advertis-

jobs were scarce.

I left

I literally

for that interview. Since

ing assistant."

planned to be there

early.

computed how I would stretch my twenty-five cents:

ten cents for carfare to and from my apartment on the lower East
Side of Manhattan; ten cents for a Nedicks lunch and five cents in
reserve, in case I had to make a phone call.
I dropped my sons at the Virginia Day nursery and crossed the
street to catch the uptown bus. An old woman stood at the corner,
a shawl around her shoulders, despite the warm September sunshine.
"A rose," she cried, extending a beautifully coiled tearose. "Only
I

carefully

a nickel for a rose!" People hurrying for the bus passed by.
I

stopped and smiled.

ing her one of

my

"Good morning,

I'll

take one,"

said hand-

precious nickels. (I'd just have to eliminate the

phone call.)
Her wizened face broadened into a grin as she pinned the delicate
bud to the lapel of my black suit. I turned towards the bus, just as
necessity for a

it

pulled away.

There was a long wait for the next bus and I arrived late. The
New York Merchandise Company was dreary. The
back room in which a number of young women were seated was
even bleaker. A shirt-sleeved man with slick dark hair handed me
a slip of paper with number "eleven" on it. I sat down and waited.
Finally a voice crackled over an ancient intercom, "Number
entrance to the

Eleven!"

was ushered through a vast room with wall-to wall display tables,
like a department store, then up a spiral staircase to a narrow
balcony overlooking the cluttered downstairs. The balcony was dark
and dingy. A lightbulb in a hanging green glass fixture shadowed the
I

much

face behind a rolltop desk in the corner.

rough,

A long,

fluorescent tube

lit

wooden worktable.

The man behind the desk was handsome, in a steely, grey haired,
grim way. His desk was so crowded with papers and objects the top
was no longer visible.
I handed him my filled out application form. He barely glanced
at it, his eyes were on the rose. He forced a tight-lipped smile and
motioned me to sit down.
"Where'd you get the flower?" he asked abruptly.

"From

a street vendor,"

"Do you know

I replied.

anything about advertising?"

247

'I

"No,"
"I can

him

said, looking

"What makes you

directly in the eye.

think you can do this job then?" he probed.

do anything

wardly, "and

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

set

my mind

on,"

answered straightfor-

need a job, now!"

He looked at me
flicked the switch

for a long moment, glanced at the application and

on the intercom, graveling into it, "Stanley, let the

others go, I've just filled the position."

"But,"

"Know

began, "don't you want to test me?"

I need to know," he said. "This job requires

someone with an eye for details. Any woman who would take the
time to buy a flower and wear it to a job interview would take the
time to do a job well. Let's get started."
Years later, long after I had left his employ, I met Sam Bloom at
a convention in Chicago. He told me he had never forgotten the

everything

yellow rose.

had bought that rose innocently, to make myself

feel better

how much of an edge

it gave me over the competition. The first impression we make is the
strongest. We can do much to alter first impressions later on, but we

during a difficult time.

did not realize then

can never erase them. Therefore choose what you wear with great
deliberation and be meticulous with your grooming. Know your

market and dress for it.

Do not wear tight fitting or body hugging clothes to a job interview
or in the

office.

ride up, crease

all

Not only

are they out of place and in poor taste, they

and look weary

after

you have been

sitting in

them

day long.

Wear

which move with easy grace, flowing about your

and enable you to
look individual. Shirts, blouses, sweaters, skirts, jackets, vests and
other third layers exercise your coordination talents. If you prefer
dresses, choose shirtwaists, two-piece knit suits, sweater dresses and
clothes

figure in a flattering line. Separates offer variety

the changelings: classic, uncluttered lines which can be easily acces-

sorized and accented. If in doubt about an accent, don't use

very doubt in your

mind

is

it.

The

signal enough. Better less than more.

Whatever clothes you choose, grooming is the ultimate accent. It

must be meticulous. Hairdo, makeup, nails, perfume, the fit and
appearance of your clothes and accessories reflect the power of your
positive approach to the way you see yourself, and your job.
As I was finishing this page, I received a letter from Tricia, a young
executive who attended my show in New Orleans last week. Her

248

The Power of a
letter

Positive Fashion

was heartwarming and

moment:

Image

quote a passage which seems timely

at this

"It

was not

idle talk

when I told you I wished I had seen your

presentation before the convention, because for the most part, clothing

myself has always been a bit of a trial. Somewhere in the inner recesses
of my mind, there has always been a rebellion against trying to squeeze
my body into someone elses concepts of how it should be shaped and
adorned! Not to mention the money I would much rather spend on any
number of other things. I know that my attitudes have changed radically since watching your presentation. This gals suitcase will forever
be different as a result of the two hours spent listening to you!"

Thank you,

Tricia.

All that you have been working with in this

circle.

Create a fashion image you are proud

When you are on top

And when you feel healthy,

ble with!

better job!

of

it all,

book now comes full

and most comforta-

of,

you

will look

it!

strong and vigorous you will do a

Taking care of the inner body

is

you want to

essential if

look attractive and have the energy to enjoy

life

to the fullest.

To

build and maintain good health requires work, just as creating a

image requires attention to details.

which follows outlines a practical program of

positive fashion

The
tion

section

and exercise that

will

show remarkable

even

results,

nutriif

you

adhere to only a part of it. I've entitled it WINNING

and that
is your reward, WINNING a healthier body, a happier outlook, and
a more beautiful, positive, enthusiastic, energetic and youthful YOU.
.

I fully

expect you will be a

WINNER!

249

Part

Winning!

16
An

Life Is

The

greatest high of all

the joy of

LIFE
long run

is
.

is

Olympics

WINNING!

SUCCESS, and what

the ultimate
.

WIN,

better

OLYMPICS, and

requires as

much

Nothing beats the surge,

game than LIFE!

to participate,

and

in the

dedication and discipline as

preparing for any championship!

How can anyone expect to engage in such an important event

without training? Athletes train for years for competition. Is not
LIVING the greatest competition of all?
Years ago when people lived a more simple, resourceful

life,

when

they worked physically, ate unprocessed foods, spent their evenings

was

quietly, retiring early to sleep peacefully until daybreak, there

need for physical training programs.

Today life is more complex, more stressful, with days and nights
filled with activities, with demands upon one's energies which can
quickly drain physical and mental reservoirs.
little

To

stay healthy

and

vital in

today's strobelighted, punkrockblast-

ing, wheelspinning, tirepeeling, interestsoaring, spaceshuttle

world

what an exciting time to be alive with the 21st

Century just five Olympic games away!
If you want to make it, as I do, then you are wise to begin training
takes work! Yet,

now, for the physically

fit

person

lives longer!

The physically

fit

cope

with stress more healthfully, their bodies can better handle

threatening traumas.

They

are

much

life

keener, their reactions quicker

253

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

and better coordinated. Active, physically healthy people are more

youthful, maintaining a spirit of adventure and an appreciation of
self-worth well into advanced years.
YOU CAN BECOME PHYSICALLY FIT! No matter what your
age, no matter what condition you are in now, you can improve.
YOU CAN BE A WINNER, and even if you do not make it to the
year 2000 Olympics, you will feel better every day of your life!
All it takes is a simple, daily routine which becomes easier each
day you do it, just like jumping hurdles: only the first one is tough.
Your daily training program will balance exercise, nutrition, rest and
mental attitude. It becomes more enjoyable the longer you stay with
it, because it makes you feel so good!
As you become fit, your muscles become stronger. Your heart
pumps more blood with each beat and begins to work more slowly,
more efficiently. Your circulation improves and increases. Your
lungs take in more air with each breath, nourishing your bloodstream, bringing a natural shine to your skin, a spark to your brain

and a glorious feeling of well being! You become more supple, more
graceful and your every step exudes vitality. You have the energy to
love, to finish the unfinished, to backpack up Mt. Whitney. You have
the confidence to create!

Your

awaken! The more healthful you

sensualities

feel,

the

stronger your sexual appetite, and good, strong, loving sex makes

you

sparkle,

makes you happy,

attracts others to

you because you are

YOU ARE A WINNER!

THAT'S WHAT GOOD HEALTH IS ALL ABOUT. It is not an

FUN

to be with

provided you work

IT IS POSSIBLE.
you have to lose is lassitude!

unobtainable goal.

Begin now,

You

GRAM

all

begin

this

rest

It

becomes a way of

life

it.

and the strengthening of one's

emotional and mental attitudes by making

routine.

at

WINNERS TRAINING PRO-

four-pronged

of exercise, nutrition,

it

a part of your everyday

after a while, almost involuntary,

like breathing.

Exercise forms part one of this training program because unless

your body responds to your needs, all else becomes difficult. Understand, however, that this is an all-encompassing program; one part
is

no more or less important than the other. Exercise, nutrition, rest,

and the development of a positive outlook are all a circle,

relaxation

strengthening each other because of their

indivisibility.

Exercising consistently forms the foundation from which good

254

Life

an Olympics

is

health

and physical

fitness

grow and

daily exercise need not disturb

your busy days. It becomes PART of that day, as natural, as easy

and as relaxed as awakening. The exercises suggested and illustrated
are divided into segments designed to coordinate with your daily
routine. Do not think, "I DO NOT HAVE THE TIME." The time

IS THERE, you are being trained to recognize it and USE IT.

It is not necessary for you to do all of the exercises outlined in this
chapter. Choose those which most easily fit in with your schedule,
and stick with them. If occasionally you find more time, add another
segment or vary the segments. The more you do, the better shape you
will

be

in.

Exercises

fall

Isometrics

into four categories:

Exercises which move muscles without moving

For example: pressing hands together to enlarge

Exercises which move muscles and

Isotonics

joints.

breasts.

joints.

For example:

calisthenics.

Exercises which make quick demands

Anaerobics

are cut short. For example: running, cycling,

for

oxygen but

swimming a

short

swimming one or two laps quickly, running for a bus. These

exercises demand a large amount of oxygen quickly without building
a steady training effect. They are used by competitive atheletes to
build up speed, and should not be part of anyone s average physical
fitness regime. The word "anaerobics*' means without oxygen.
distance,

The

exercises which work the inside muscles, the ones we

Aerobics strengthen heart and lungs building a healthy
cardiovascular system and endurance. They are exercises we should

Aerobics

cannot

see.

practice every day,

if

we want

to stay healthy

and youthful. 'Aerob*

means with oxygen, and are: rapid walking, jogging, running,

swimming laps, all at a brisk pace for a specified length of
time. The best books on aerobic type exercises are: Aerobics by Dr.
Kenneth H. Cooper and Aerobics for Women by his wife, Mildred
ics'

cycling,

Cooper.
Aerobics are the most important of all the exercises and should be
program or practiced at least five times a week. It is
not difficult to fit aerobics into your daily life. All it takes is a brisk
part of a daily

walk of

at least

two miles

at 15

minutes per mile to begin a steady

255

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

program that will strengthen your cardiovascular system

and build endurance. This means just one half hour out of your day,
and you can walk in the early morning, at lunchtime, or after dinner.
Walking briskly is the healthiest form of exercise. It places little
strain on joints and muscles and can be safely indulged in at any age.
Some prefer running and jogging, but before you begin a program of
this type, make sure to check with your physician first.
training

Bicycling, cross-country skiing, handball, racketball, tennis, golf

all aerobic type exercises which keep heart
and lungs healthy and add youth to your step. Even if you choose
not to do any of the isometrics and isotonics outlined in this chapter,
for your life's sake, begin a consistent program of aerobic type exercises now!
To prove how easy it is for you to get in shape, our exercise
program begins at the very beginning, in bed, where you were born!
When Mark Twain said, "Everytime I think of exercising, I lie
down until the thought goes away," he did not realize there is no
better place to begin a new day than with simple, stretching movements in bed, before you get up. It is the most comfortable place of
all, and the results are immediately recognizable. For people with
arthritis, back and joint problems or athletic injuries, it is imperative
to begin here. The following exercises should be done on a firm
mattress; the firmer the sleeping surface the healthier it is for your

(no cart), dancing, are

spine.

Waking up quickly and jumping out of bed

aroused body. Chinese philosophy
sleep to

tells

awakening should be broken only

gentle manner. Chinese

women

is

a shock to a newly

us the long journey from

most loving and

were taught to caress

in the

for centuries

their husbands awake. If you share your bed, caress each other awake
and do the following exercises together. If you sleep alone, be content
to awaken by yourself. Stretch, stretch sensuously and massage your

own

body.

1
Breathe deeply. Run hands over your body toward your heart.
Massage gently. Work around the back of your neck with a kneading
motion, up into the scalp using your fingers in a circular movement.
Work around the entire head and feel your scalp tingle and your
brain come alive! (Marvelous for the hair.) Massage your hands,
rubbing them over each other. Work up your arms, deep into the

shoulder areas. Lift one leg with knee bent. Beginning with ankle,

massage up to the thigh, working completely around

with other

256

leg.

Do

this slowly, allow

body

to

awaken

leg.

Repeat

gently.

Life

is

an Olympics

2
Place fingertips together on diaphragm. Breathe deeply, pushing
diaphragm out as you inhale; in as you exhale. Feel fingertips move
apart as you inhale. When you exhale, they will come together.
Count as you exhale and see how many counts you can work up to
before fingertips come together. Think only of the breathing, filling
lungs deeply each time. Do five, slow deep breathing movements.
life's

breath soaring into a

new morning.

Raise arms overhead. Stretch,

stretch, stretch, first

one arm, then

rhythm of your

Listen to the

the other. Stretch feet to foot of bed. Try to touch end. Stretch toes,

Clench

curl them, alternate.

fists,

release. Stretch, release a

number

of times. Think of something lovely, like winning a lottery or waking

up 20 pounds thinner! (sketch 64)

Note: If your legs should ever

Then

cramp while

sleeping or while stretch-

and curl. Stretching and curling,

eliminating sugar from your diet and drinking two glasses of
skimmed milk a day should do away with leg cramps.
ing, curl toes.

Pull stomach

stretch gently

in,

hard.

Hold

to count of five. Relax.

Repeat

five

times.

Clasp arms overhead. Bring one knee

to chest bringing

over and clasping hands over knee. Repeat with other

in

when arms

Repeat

five

arms up,

leg.

Breathe

you bring knee to chest.

you become stronger, bring

are overhead, breathe out as

times alternating

legs.

When

both knees to chest at same time and lower slowly, (sketch 64)

Stretch arms

out, shoulder level. Raise head, look at toes, turn

head (still raised) slowly to

Repeat five times.

Close

left

then right.

Lower head

to bed.

open wide. Roll eyes in complete circle, right to left,

up and down. Close eyes again, look at a distant object

eyes,

to right,

in the

left,

room. Look

at

something

close.

Repeat a number of times.

Close your eyes, take two deep breaths. Think blue, think green,
think serene.

Open your eyes

THIS WILL BE

slowly.

SMILE

Think of what a GREAT

GET UP!

DAY

... and then,

While these exercises may not be as

satisfying as Chinese caresses,

they stimulate circulation and tone stomach, back, neck, facial and

257

Sketch 64

258

Sketch 65

Loofa

mitt scrub

0)
rotate shoulders
ttl.

/
#2.

259

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

who insists, "I have no time to
must get up before my husband and the
children," then let a morning shower awaken and stimulate you!
Showers are terrific for massage and other exercises! Use a loofah
mitt or a rough terry cloth briskly. Begin with arms; run mitt or cloth
from fingertips to shoulder, massaging in a circular motion. Work
under, over and up the arms, around neck, across top of chest (never
massage the breasts roughly), down the sides, under bosom, around
waist, stomach, hips, buttocks and down legs. Come up, massaging
eye muscles. If you are a diehard

exercise in bed," or "I

vigorously, yet gently.

Rotate shoulders forward,

tions.

around back, and up.

Do

Reverse direction, rotating shoulders, backwards,

Do

forwards.

ten rota-

down and

(Keeps shoulders young and prevents

ten.

fat

from

building up at back of neck.) (sketch 65)

2 Place

palm of

down and

right

hand on back of head (elbow

bent).

back, placing hand, palm out in center of back.

Reach

Do

five

Repeat with other hand. Fantastic if you have ever had a

shoulder injury. (Helps to keep upper arms youthful.) (sketch 65)
times.

Bend over from

warm

waist. Place

hands on knees. Allow the relaxing

water to caress your lower back. Pull stomach in hard, round-

and dropping chin to chest. Your knees will straighten.

moment. Relax stomach, raising head, arching it backwards. As back arches, knees will bend. Repeat this tightening and
relaxing of stomach and back at least five times, making sure to drop
chin to chest and arching head as back arches. (This is the all
important pelvic tilt which keeps backs strong and vaginas youthful.)
ing back

Hold

for a

(sketch 66)

With

head

the shower aimed at the back of your neck (gently), turn

to right

and

chin on right shoulder. Feel the

moment, turn slowly and repeat

rest

muscles. Hold for a

stretch of neck
to

left,

(sketch

67)

5
Place right hand on right side of face. Drop head to left shoulder.
Try to raise head, while at the same time right hand resists. Be gentle,
do not force, just resist. Repeat with left hand, dropping head to right

shoulder,

260

(sketch 67)

Sketch 66

tuck

Pelvic Tilt

#3.

261

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

6
With water still cascading gently on back of your neck, rotate
head allowing it to drop fully onto chest and fall backwards as you
come around. Feel like a ragdoll. Relax. Feel the water fall on your
face and the back of neck. Reverse the rotation, (sketch 67)

Gradually cool the water, accustoming yourself to the cooler temit to spray the base of your spine first. This
seems to set a body thermostat that makes taking a cool shower
perature by allowing

You might

easier.

then wish to try what

Frenchwomen have been

doing for years to help keep their bosoms youthful. Run cool, cool
water on your breasts to tone and tighten. (This should never be done

by anyone with a heart condition.)

If you are taking a shower with one you love, the possibilities for
hand massage are infinite. Enjoy it even more knowing that not only
is it a terrifically sensual experience, it is also healthy!
Pulsating shower heads are excellent for stimulation and circulation, but heavy, pulsating jets can be harmful if used indiscrimi-

by those who have disc or joint problems. Be careful and

nately, or

do not overdo.

What you have done with these shower exercises is to awaken your
column to a new day. The central nervous system is encased

spinal

and the peripheral nerves emanate from

in the spinal cord,

Maintaining a healthy lumbar and cervical spine

health

and physical

fitness,

and helps soothe

is

there.

essential to

injuries, arthritis,

good
and

other problems which beset the spine.

I was 19 when I first injured my back, foolishly attempting an
advanced exercise before I had warmed up sufficiently. At that time
I was physical director of Dr. Robert Anderson's health camp near
Peekskill, New York. Even though I had a daily routine in which I
conducted four lengthy hikes, taught three calisthenics and two
swimming classes, I sustained a sacroiliac injury when I attempted

difficult

movement before my body was

and physically
In 1967

fit,

ready. Because

was young

healed quickly, though painfully.

back injury and this time I was past

would not be able to continue to ski, run, play
tennis or golf. The orthopedic specialist recommended a back operation. I refused and he put me into traction for ten days. When I was
released from the hospital, I began a daily program of back exercises
and since my apartment was only a block from the YWCA I swam
each day during lunch hour. When I was on tour, I would find a local
forty.

262

was

suffered another

told

Sketch 67

"\fc

*<p
4--push

push

#5.

#4.

#6.

263

/ Haven V a Thing To Wear

and swim before or after my shows.

worked up to swimming one half mile

moved

five

days a week and

Pocono Mounwhere swimming is not that convenient.

Today, I can bend over from the waist with no difficulty and touch
my hands flat to the floor. In 1973, I joined the teaching staff at
Camelback Ski Area, just Vi mile from my home and taught skiing
on the weekends I was not on tour. In 1978 I won my first Silver
continued this for three years, until

to the

tains

NASTAR

medal

in a ski race at

took up cross-country skiing.

Steamboat Springs.
walk at least four to

Two

years ago

day
hour of advanced calisthenics three times a week. I also
play golf, tennis and cycle whenever I get the chance.
I had four grandparents who died of heart disease and high blood
pressure while in their early fifties. Genetically I am not a good risk,
I

and do a

but
I

six miles a

full

continually

work

to better

begin each morning that

my odds.
am home

in a

warm

tub, using a

have had
no hint of back trouble since my '67 injury and I feel stronger than
when I was a young woman. My tub routine has worked so well for
me, I hope that you will make time for it. Get up a half hour earlier,
it is worth it!
Buy an eyeshade. Pour bath oil or perfume into a warm, warm tub.
(I use camomile blossoms tied in cheesecloth.) Cleanse and moisturize your face. Leave the cream on. Soak two cotton balls with witch
hazel, or use two cucumber slices. Place over eyes, cover with eyeshade. Invest in a portable whirlpool machine which sits on the rim
of the tub. It is well worth the money. I bought such a model from
Sears for less than $100.00 nine years ago and I have used it constantly. Turn the whirlpool on, aiming jet at your lower back.
whirlpool machine for twenty minutes while

Sink into swirling water, so that back

stomach muscles

tightly, forcing small

is flat,

exercise. I

knees bent. Contract

of back to tub. Hold, release,

Do 100 contractions the first day, eventually working up to

While you do these contractions, move the whirlpool arm so
that the jet reaches various parts of your body. Keep your mind free
of thought, concentrate only on the contractions. If you have no
whirlpool, just do the exercise, it's great! Note: A delightful bonus
to this particular exercise is that you are also strengthening sphincter
and vaginal muscles. Your love partner will find you tighter. Doing
these same contractions during the love act brings stimulating and
repeat.

500.

sensual excitement to both partners.

264

Life

is

an Olympics

Aim

faucets

jet at ankles,

on and

let

or

if

you do not have a whirlpool machine, turn

a stream of swift running water massage ankles as

you exercise them. Bend

feet

forward and back. Stretch

them. Rotate ankles right and

left.

Do

toes, curl

these ankle exercises any-

where. If you have been shopping or touring and your feet hurt,

sit

down somewhere and do them. Ankles not only turn men's heads,
they hold you up, and when your feet hurt, it shows in your face,
(sketch 68)

Sink hands into tumbling water. Try to grasp and hold the whirl-

ing liquid. Extend fingers,

right, left. Exercises

make

make

fist,

extend, stretch. Rotate wrists,

the hands lovelier, stronger, and younger

looking. Note: If fingers are arthritic, gently massage joints under

Doing

water.

from
4

and keep

this daily will help to alleviate pain

fingers

stiffening further, (sketch 68)

up (eyeshade

Sit

Make

sure pressure

release.

still

is

on

eyes).

Aim

whirlpool jet at your knees.

not too strong. Contract thigh muscles. Hold,

Put hands on thighs and

feel

the muscles working. Strong

thigh muscles are important for knee strength.

Do

ten contractions

working up to twenty.
5

Bend elbows. Clasp

sist.

Hold

fingers tightly.

Try

to pull

hands apart. Rearms and

for five counts, relax, repeat ten times. (Tightens

bust.)

Extend arms forward. Turn palms

to outside. Tense.

counts, relax, repeat ten times. (Keeps upper

arms

Hold

five

firm.) (sketch 68)

All of these exercises can be done without a whirlpool, but the

whirlpool

is

a definite plus and should be considered.

apply a facial

mask while you do

Once a week,

this tub routine. Note: If unfortu-

you are bedridden due to illness or injury, all of the foregoing

done while confined to bed. They will help maintain
muscle strength. Check with your doctor before you begin.
nately

exercises can be

If exercising in bed, in the

try the kitchen.

number of

shower, in the tub

THE BROOMSTICK

will

is

not for you, then

keep you

fit.

No

specific

repetitions appears in this

segment because these exercises

should be done rhythmically without bothering to count. Do what
feels good!

265

Sketch 68

Ankle massage

266

&

exercise

Sketch 69

267

/ Haven 7 a Thing To Wear

Place broomstick across upper back. Twist slowly from side to

side.

Pick up a nice, easy rhythm, (sketch 69)

Same

from the

Bend sideways, alternating sides. Slowly stretch

Keep hips loose to prevent pulling waist or back

position.
waist.

muscles, (sketch 69)

3

Reach broomstick high over head.

Lower

it

behind neck and

shoulders (as far as you can go). This helps straighten posture and
prevents ugly fat deposits

known

as "dowager's

hump."

It

also tight-

ens and tones back of upper arms, (sketch 69)

4
Hold broomstick out at shoulder level. Turn right foot to side.
Keep left foot straight ahead. Bend knee and slowly lunge over right
knee in fencing position. Do not bounce. The idea is to stretch inner

thigh.

Get as low as you can comfortably. This

quickly.

What you want is a long,

with other

leg.

is

not to be done

long stretch for inner thigh. Repeat

(sketch 71)

Hold broom

vertically, sweeper end up. Pretend it is a sturdy

back and forth attaining rhythm and height. Stay
loose. Do not strain. Begin kicks slowly and do not go too high. Your
leg should be a dead weight which swings freely in a pendulum
5

cane.

Swing

leg

motion. Alternate
6

Same

legs,

(sketch 70)

position. Raise right leg to side. Slowly, stretch.

begin slow side kicks, gradually raising height of kick.

Then

Do not strain

or you could pull a muscle. Alternate legs, (sketch 70)

7

Hold broomstick out

stick.

Alternate

tone hips,

legs,

legs.

at

shoulder

level.

Raise knee, try to kick

Begin slowly and work up to a

lively

tune to

abdomen, (sketch 70)

8
Hold broomstick out at shoulder level. Bend knees slightly.
Keeping back straight, push pelvis forward, lower and raise body
gently. Do not go too low. Feel the stretch and pull in your thighs.
This partial, stretching knee bend is far better for you than deep knee
bends. Women with varicose veins should never do any deep knee
bends, nor should other women, (sketch 71)

Raise broomstick overhead.

Slowly bend forward from waist,

knees bent. Reach broomstick towards

268

floor.

Do

not bounce.

Do

not

Sketch 70

kick

269

Sketch 71

head
I

&

back

straight

#4.

fencing lunge

270

Life

is

an Olympics

attempt to touch floor

if

you have not exercised

in years.

Be

patient.

Slowly raise from knees until legs are straight. You are stretching the
back muscles and the legs. Breathe out as you bend towards the floor.
Inhale as you
up,

lift

knees

come

up, raising broomstick high over head. Stretch

your ribcage. As your suppleness increases, straighten your

you bend towards floor. Eventually you will be able

slightly as

to touch floor with straight knees.

Always do

this exercise slowly

stretching from the waist, (sketch 72)

Hold broomstick horizontally, chest

high. Extend arms straight

them back. Extend again; bring back a number of times.
This tones and firms upper arms, (sketch 72)

10

out. Bring

11

Same

ceiling.

out.

position. Turn broomstick so that alternate ends face

Twist and turn broomstick rapidly, holding arms straight

DO NOT BEND ELBOWS.

This exercise keeps arms and

breasts youthful, (sketch 72)

12
Put broomstick down. You are finished with it. Finish off with
jumping jacks. With hands at sides, feet together, jump feet apart,
raising arms and clapping hands over head at the same time. Work
up to twenty jumping jacks. You will feel vital for the rest of the day!

(sketch 73)

If

you have no broom, get a board/ A slant board!

If

we

lived in

a weightless world, perhaps nothing would sag, and at sixty our body

we are earthlings and

combat downward drag.
If you have no slant board, an ironing board placed on the edge of
a chair, its forward end on the floor, will work. You can also lie down
in the slant position for a few moments each day by elevating your
feet on a chair with pillows propped under your back. The slant
would look
subject to

as lovely as

its

it

did at twenty. Since

gravity, slant boards help to

position sends blood to the head, stimulating facial tissues, nerves

and muscles.

Arms overhead. Raise arms and clasp knee

legs.

When you

feel

knees to chest. Breathe in

you bring knees to

to chest. Alternate

strong enough, do this exercise raising both

when arms

are overhead, breathe out as

chest, (sketch 74)

271

Sketch 72

272

Sketch 73

273

Sketch 74

->->

274

Life

is

an Olympics

Arms overhead.

Slowly raise body and try to touch toes with

Exhale as you sit up. Inhale as you slowly return to
starting position. As your strength increases, fold arms across chest
2

fingertips.

and

raise body, touching

head

place arms behind head and

situps.

sit

Breathe in when body

When you are truly strong,

Work up eventually to twenty-five

to knees.

up.
is

lowered. Breathe out as you

come

up. (sketch 74)

Hold onto

slant

board

grips.

Raise both legs slightly. Cross right

leg over left in side scissor kick, spreading legs as far as possible with

each crossover. Keep knees straight. Alternate; begin with ten working up to twenty-five crossovers. This strengthens abdominal muscles

and trims inner

A

Hold

grips.

thigh, (sketch 75)

Raise each leg slowly as high as you can.

to twenty with each leg, breathing in

leg

is

Work up

prone, breathing out as

raised. Alternate, (sketch 75)

Hold

when

grips.

(more slowly

Raise both legs high (slowly).

still).

Lower legs to board

The slower you do

Feel stomach muscles tighten!

this, the stronger the pull on the stomach muscles. Breathe deeply
and evenly, inhaling and exhaling as above, (sketch 76)

Raise head. Hold. Turn slowly from

side to side.

Lower head

to

board and repeat, (sketch 76)

you feel you cannot take time to do either the broomstick or

board exercises, know that beneficial exercises can be done any
time of day and in almost any situation. For example, if you are
If

slant

waiting for a bus, in line at a supermarket, or in your car waiting for

the light to change take a few
ener: pull

stomach muscles

moments

in hard.

for a terrific

stomach

tight-

Hold, hold, hold. Relax.

Cleaning house? Stretch, bend, reach while doing chores.

Hanging clothes?

Set the clothes line higher than normal, so that you

have to stand almost on tiptoe to reach it. This stretches arms and
helps to keep them toned and youthful.

Ironing?

Smooth out your

rear too! Place feet twelve inches apart.

Bring one leg out to side, then back a

bit.

Keep hips

straight,

do not

275

Sketch 75

cross over

#3.

#4.

276

Sketch 76

#6.

277

Sketch 77

Cross eyes!

Blow bubbles!

Touch nose!

Touch chin!

Inflate cheeks

Grimace!

278

Life

is

an Olympics
Hold for a count of six. Repeat
up while ironing and you will not feel so

turn them. Tense buttock muscles.

with other

leg.

Keep

this

tired.

Dressing? Reach, reach, for that zipper. Raise arms overhead when
pulling on a sweater or blouse. Twist and turn in front of the mirror
to

make

sure of the

a stool or chair,

lift

fit

of clothes.

your

leg,

When

putting on hosiery,

sit

on

reach out with straight arms, suck in

your stomach, round your back and pull your hose on.

Do not bend,

reach out.

Brushing your hair? Bend forward keeping back flat with feet flat on
floor. Brush hair overhead with long, sweeping strokes. Stretch lower
back. Then, bend to the side and brush.

Sitting at

a desk? Clasp palms, interlace

fingers.

Turn hands

out-

ward, palms facing away. Keep elbows straight. Raise arms overhead, stretch, stretch. Keeping arms overhead with elbows straight,
bend and stretch to each side. Lift ribcage.
Unlock hands, bend to side, touching fingers to floor. Repeat, alternating sides. Stretch fingers as you reach to floor.
Stretch legs out horizontally under your desk. Wiggle toes, rotate
ankles. Do this frequently whenever you have been sitting for a
length of time. Particularly helpful when you have been confined to
a narrow,

cramped

seat

on a long plane

flight.

Tired after typing for hours, driving long distances, or pouring over
books while studying? Lift shoulders, rotate them forward. Rotate

backwards. Turn head from side to side. Roll head around clockwise,
then counterclockwise. Place hands behind head, bend forward, then
side to side.

Do

all

of these slowly and feel tensions ebb away.

Watching television? Don't just sit there spreading, do leg lifts. Raise
each leg a number of times. Raise both legs together. With legs
raised,

swing them wide apart, then cross over in a scissor kick. These

are excellent for circulation, stomach

movements

that elderly people can

do

and thigh muscles, and are

easily.

Brushing your teeth? Keep your face youthful with exercises which
keep facial muscles taut and springy. Become a clown! Inflate cheeks.

Blow

out.

Blow

bubbles. Grimace. Whistle.

Go

eee-awww, eeeh-

279

Sketch 78

ni'A.

280

Life

an Olympics

is

awww. Open your mouth

wide, wider. Close

it!

Try to touch

tip

of

nose with tongue. Try to touch chin. Close your eyes, open them
wide, wider!

Look

at

your nose,

your

roll

eyes! (sketch 77)

do no others, make these three

They are particularly effective
if you plan to go out for the evening. They relax you so that you can
take a short nap and awaken refreshed, ready to be a vibrant com-

Achy and tired after a busy day?

If you

exercises part of your daily routine.

panion.

Clasp hands behind back.

Stand straight, stomach

in.

Slowly,

Keep head

without bending forward, raise hands as high as you can.

Drop head, bend forward slowly from

hands high behind back. Drop head as close

back, while raising hands.

waist, keeping clasped

to knees as possible. Hold, then slowly

you

raise

come

up, inhaling deeply as

head and lower arms. Release hands and

down

of the blood flowing back

to

your

This exercise has multitudinous benefits.

the neck which tighten
tightens upper

arms and

when you

feel

the sensation

wrists.
It

relaxes the muscles of

are tired or upset.

It

tones and

breasts. It stimulates circulation to the face,

and, most importantly of

all, it

helps correct poor posture, (sketch

78)

Lie down. Bend knees. Raise one

Rotate leg from knee. Circle

least

twenty

circles in

left,

leg at a time with

then right. Alternate

each direction with

leg.

Do

this in

knee bent.
legs.

Do

at

bed before

and helps prevent varicose veins. This

an important exercise for anyone who does a lot of standing or
sitting. It is especially important for pregnant women, (sketch 78)
retiring. It relieves leg strain

is

Slump

ragdoll.

in a chair or on edge of bed. Don't sit, slump, like a

Relax completely. Let your mouth drop open. If you are

relaxed,

it

will.

Allow eyes

to close. Roll

head around,

easily, slowly.

The weight of your head will carry it around. Roll, roll.

become dizzy, reverse direction. Reverse anyway after ten

If

you

rolls in

one direction. Soon you will yawn. This proves it is working. Lie
back and take a short nap or go to sleep for the night, (sketch 78)

YOU CAN BE A WINNER

Take time
to stay

to stay

ALIVE!

fit.

Dying

Exercise

is

is

IN

easy,

THE OLYMPICS OF
anyone can do

it.

It

LIFE!

takes work

fun and you do not have to limit yourself

281

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

an aerobic dance class. Exercise in the swimming

walk in waist high water does wonders. Flexibility
keeps one youthful and to maintain suppleness, stretch, bend, move
every day of your life!
to set patterns. Join

pool; taking a

282

11
To Keep
You Young
Foods

"Oh

to be young," sang out the lady with a lovely cloud of white

hair as

loped by.

Aspen
Feeling young is

Florida. In

the pulse of

No

day

is

life.

What an
I

up!

would be

To

be called "young. " But that

feeling like a sunburst!

New

ideas,

is

old.

Every streak vibrates with

new thoughts tumble over each

other.

long enough!

The body is incredible! Even if you meet it only half-way with good
nutrition, exercise, rest,

with

vitality.

and a

When you

positive mental attitude,

it

responds

are without pain, at ease with yourself,

mind becomes serene and

You become confident, positive, pow-

content that you are doing your best, your

responds alertly to your needs.

erful.

All the annoyances, setbacks, disappointments and stress that

everyone experiences become manageable.

Why would anyone permit themself to feel draggy, depressed, sick,

when

feeling good is so great? The zoom you get with good health
worth all the effort it takes!
And, despite your genes, despite your habits, you can build good
health right now, at this very moment, with this easy-to-follow guide

is

for nourishing foods

which

will help

you create a healthy

lifestyle.

Live foods keep you young! Fruits, vegetables, grains, legumes and

when combined with proteins:

and other beans, fish, fowl, meat, eggs, milk, and cheese,
nourish your body and mind with vital nutrients that make you feel
seeds in as natural a state as possible,
nuts, soy

283

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

You

terrific!

are eager to get

adventure that

on with the

joy, the excitement, the

is life!

This chapter reflects thirty-eight years of a spirited commitment to

movement. It is a condensation of reading and studying

the health

countless books, articles

doing.
rific

It

mirrors

feel

when

my

and medical papers, of questioning and

enthusiasm, bred from experience, of

follow the laws of nature.

how

ter-

have observed at close

hand how the health of others has improved when they adopt a
healthier lifestyle. The key to good health, at any age, is prevention.
Practicing a consistent program of preventative health care will
enliven your life, for when you feel fantastic, all seems possible!
Simply put, we are a complex biochemical factory. Our vital organs, glands, brain and nervous system are encased and protected by
bones, muscles, sinew and skin. All are fed by the bloodstream which
nourishes the cells with oxygen, proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins

and minerals. The bloodstream

eat, the

water

we drink and

these nutrients.
skin.

We

in turn is

nourished by the food

we breathe.

the air

we

We absorb and utilize

excrete wastes through the kidneys, colon and

The healthy body functions

When

resiliency with a beautiful, on-

body and
harmony. We feel alive, super-charged, sensational!
However, when you flood the system with the cumulative effects
of poisons: junk foods, alcohol, caffeine, nicotine, drugs, chemical
preservatives and additives, excess sugar and salt, environmental
going rhythm.

mind work

all is in

balance, the cadence correct,

in

chemicals, mental and emotional stress, fatigue

to change.

They no longer

they require. Their signals go askew.

our very

life

becomes

off-balance,

the cells begin

harmonic balance of nutrients

receive the

The biochemical chain

and we begin

that

is

to experience break-

downs in the way we feel, the way we function. Disease takes root.
The changes which are subtle and mostly unrecognized while we are
young, become more pervasive and evident as we mature. Sadly,
disease due to the factors described are occurring more and more
frequently in the young. An inordinate number of babies are being
born with genetic damage, and an inordinate number of children are
victims of crippling, chronic diseases.

While

we cannot radically change cell death and the

we can slow it down. Sound nutrition keeps cells alive

at this time,

aging process,

and vital. Exercise stimulates circulation, nourishes the bloodstream,

and keeps the body supple, flexible and youthful. Rest regenerates
and recharges life. And, a positive mental attitude brings serenity,
and the confidence to make it all possible!

284

Foods

Keep You Young

to

When

became

first

considered, "strange,"

interested in natural foods in 1942,

.

"on-the-fringe."

More

stream of a vast, growing movement.

Now I am

in the

was

main-

physicians today recog-

you are indeed what you eat, and that many annoying
symptoms and illnesses are nutritionally based.
How lucky I was to experience healthful eating and living at the
age of nineteen! I had been a sickly child and no wonder. I never ate
a raw vegetable or tasted a tomato or strawberry until I went to live
with my Aunt Helen at the age of ten. When I rejoined my mother
a year after my grandmother's death, I was eleven years old. Since
Mother was at work, I was unsupervised and unknowing. I ate cake,
candy, ice-cream and loads of chocolate. My lunch was most often
Pepsi-Cola and canned peas. My dinner, overcooked meat and soggy
potatoes. I had measles five times and a constant cold, no matter
what the season. Many times during the year I was plagued with
"pink eyes," awakening each morning, my eyes glued shut with
mucus. My hair was thin, brittle; my nails spotted with white marks
nize that

and

cracks.
credit

my

off-the-wall interest in sports with building a fairly

strong body, despite

my

diet.

No one in my

mother's family enjoyed

or participated in any type of physical activity and she tried to

I had been born with a heart murmur. My
were athletically active, but I saw them only
twice during the years I grew up. The genes were strong, however.

discourage
father

and

me

because

his brothers

was on the school track team;

joined a

progressed to pre-Olympic training.

money

the

swim team

bought

my

at eleven

first

earned in a dress factory at fourteen

fellow plane polisher and budding

My bicycling companion,

and

bicycle with

pilot,

mother who
had given up on doctors and drugs after years of no results, sent him
to a health camp, where through diet, sunshine and exercise, his skin
cleared completely. Mordy returned incredibly handsome, hearty
and filled with determination to change his coke and pizza pals into
celery chomping converts.

Mordy Rhodes, had had eczema

I,

like the rest

mozzarella as

it

of the gang,

as a child,

resisted,

and

his wise

enjoying every gooey taste of

dripped, laden with tomato sauce, hot pepper and

from a crispy, curling crust. Mordy kept after me and finally, after
one particularly miserable bout of "pink eyes," I promised to contact
oil

Even though I am not Jennifer O'Neal, the sumchanged my life. I went off to work as physical director
Dr. Robert Anderson just as Mordy went off to war. Dr. Ander-

his health doctor.

mer of
for

'42

285

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

son was one of the early nutritionists and a naturopath

Camp

who operated

Hygiology, a vegetarian resort which used to nestle on the

banks of the Hudson

at

Verplanck,

the Indian Point nuclear

New

power plant

is

York, just south of where

today.

Dr. Anderson had been stricken with tuberculosis in his early

and had cured himself through natural means. In his sevenstill clear a field of underbrush better than his young
helpers. I worked for the Andersons for three glorious summers and
returned with my two young sons years later for another season.

thirties
ties,

he could

my family made fun of me when I became a vegetarian,

amazed and delighted with the results. I lost more than
twenty pounds. My constant cold disappeared and I no longer
sounded like Lily Tomlin at the switchboard. My hair grew shiny
Although

they were

and reached

its

my

ultimate length, an inch below

My

ear.

nails

stopped splitting and the white spots (a sign of zinc deficiency)

disappeared.

I felt

sensational!

Every day was a song, and over much

first summer, I entered the

American Academy of Dramatic Arts and began a whole new life!
The lessons I learned there have stayed with me and have helped

too quickly. After Hygiology closed that

keep

me

healthy despite a poor genetic heritage, despite a difficult

childhood, despite the stress of raising three children without the

emotional and financial support of a husband, despite a demanding

work schedule and

despite

my

often finds an outlet in sweets

impulsive, emotional nature which

and overeating.

While I did not remain a vegetarian, I eat little meat, preferring

and fowl. The bulk of my diet is just that
bulk
mostly
raw or slightly cooked vegetables, fresh fruits, fresh fruit and vegetable juices, whole grains, seeds, sprouts and nuts. I also take vitamin
and mineral supplements and liver protein pills.
fish

A DIET TO KEEP YOU YOUNG AND VITAL

The

ideal diet,

enthusiastic

is

one which

will

keep you young,

vital,

energetic and

a natural diet containing: complex carbohydrates,

and minerals. It is comparatively low-fat, free of

and additives. To be realistic, it is not easy to give up that
which we have traditionally eaten, those foods we have come to love,
and those luscious dishes which add such zest to our lives. Most
people change their diet only when they are overweight or illness
becomes so pervasive that there is no alternative.
proteins, vitamins

sugar, salt

286

Foods

to

Keep You Young

an alternative now! By easing into eating natural, healthyou will find it less difficult to give up those favorites that
form such a special part of your life. You can learn to select foods
carefully, achieving a compromise you can live with that incorporates healthful, natural foods. Then, occasional forays into foods that
are less than perfect, but perfectly delicious will do little harm.
Most important of all is to recognize and admit how harmful
refined sugar is and how it pervades almost all the foods we eat.

There

is

ful foods,

Refined sugar

not a food!

is

It is

from sugar beets and sugar cane.

It

a chemical

compound

extracted

resembles cocaine and heroin and

like drugs, produces psychodependence and addiction. It has no vitamins, minerals, fiber,
protein, fat, enzymes, trace elements or any semblance of what con-

can be just as harmful. Refined sugar,

logical

stitutes food.

Refined sugar upsets the vitamin-mineral balance of the

of calcium, Vitamin C, and the essential

body, robbing

it

Refined sugar

is

vitamins.

absorbed into the bloodstream quickly causing the

pancreas to release insulin

at

an inordinately high rate resulting

surges of blood sugar levels which then

fall

in

rapidly, setting off a chain

symptoms which if unchecked and uncontrolled

and can become life-threatening. Refined sugar
causes obesity and lays a fertile foundation for diabetes, hypoglycemia, heart and kidney disease, arthritis, tooth decay, blindness
and a host of other illnesses.
of uncomfortable
are frightening

Nutritionists,

some physicians and

researchers

now

recognize

blood sugar disturbances as the cause of emotional, mental and

behavior problems in children and adults. These facts are well docu-

mented
son;

in

books such

Mind and Sugar, " E.M. AbrahamEmanuel Cheraskin; "Nutrition and

"Body,

as:

"Psycho-Dietetics, " Dr.

Your Mind, " and "The Psycho-Chemical Response, " both by

George Watson; "Sugar Blues, " by William Dufty; "The OrthoMolecular Approach to Learning Disabilities, " by Dr. Alan Cott.
Dr. Benjamin Feingold has also documented his extensive work with
children in a
in

number of

New York

monitors both

you read

Dr. Cott, a psychiatrist

who

practices

and pediatric patients' diets, eliminating

and preservatives as does Dr. Feingold.

his adult

sugar, food additives

If

texts.

City and specializes in treating children, carefully

labels

contain sugar. There

you
is

will find that

almost

all

packaged foods

sugar in ketchup, steak sauce, tomato and

spaghetti sauces, soups, breads, frozen

and canned vegetables, baked

beans, processed luncheon meats, hot dogs and

some cheese

foods.

287

"I Haven't a Thing To

It

is

almost impossible to buy anything packaged, frozen, canned or

processed that does not contain sugar or

I

Wear!"

salt.

could never understand adding sugar to soup, bread, vegetables

and other such foods.

difference

is

Why

going to eat sugar, enjoy

hidden sugars when the taste

eat all the

really not that

marked?

its

would much

rather,

if I

am

very special sweetness in a luscious

up chocolate chip cookies, then

is what I mean by compromise, selection and balance. There are breakthroughs as more and
more food manufacturers become nutritionally aware, and as more
and more people demand more wholesome, natural foods. There are
tomato sauces without sugar, and Libby and Dole are packing
canned fruit in their own juices without sugar. I recently read labels
on 12 different brands of bread before I found one which does not
contain sugar, corn syrup or honey. It is a thin-sliced rye bread baked
by Arnold which has been certified as "legal" by two various diet
dessert. If

you cannot or

will not give

forego the hidden sugars in foods. That

groups.

The body needs glucose for the cells for sugar is the fuel it runs
away from simple sugars such as cake, candy, ice-cream
and other sweets. They enter the bloodstream too quickly, disrupting
delicate body chemistry. They also leech vitamin C, the B-complex
on. But stay

vitamins and calcium from the system. Nature provides complex

carbohydrates in the form of fresh fruits and vegetables for

fuel.

Complex carbohydrates go through a slower, more involved process

of digestion. They enter the bloodstream gradually without overstimulating the pancreas. Complex carbohydrates do not cause
surges in blood sugar levels which create unnatural cravings for

sweets and set off physical and mental aberrations and

symptoms

which can be frightening.

By making complex carbohydrates (fruits, vegetables and grains)
the basis of your diet, and adding the necessary proteins
nuts, soy
beans, fish, fowl, meat, eggs, cheese and milk
you have a nutritional program which builds health and prevents disease.
And you can ease into it so gradually that your family will not
notice the difference. You will, however, notice a marked difference
in the health of your family and your own energies and outlook.
Children and adults on a sugar restricted diet are so much more

amenable,

stable, productive. Children, particularly,

do not evidence

"growing pains," so often associated with adolescence, but more likely a result of the enormous amounts of sugar they
eat, facts which have been attested to by the research of Doctors Cott
and Feingold.
the tantrums, the

288

Foods

to

Keep You Young

The more you eat of the natural foods, the more delicious they
become. As you begin to enjoy what feeling terrific is truly like, you
will become disdainful of all those foods which slow you down and
drain you of energy.

The following basic diet is the ideal. How closely you stick with
depends on your own motivation and discipline. Do not be discouraged if you do not adopt it fully and wholeheartedly. Just adding
it

various natural foods to your daily regime will be beneficial, and you
will eventually begin to eliminate foods which are non-nutritive. Use
your creativity and imagination to enhance these suggestions, but
remember, the closer you stick to the natural, uncooked, unadulterated food, the healthier it is. It takes time for tastebuds, and
psyche to adapt to natural foods, therefore ease into it gradually.
Add healthful foods daily and begin to eliminate the sugars, salt,
white flour and fantastic concoctions you were raised with and love.

THE BASIC NATURAL DIET

Whole grain

Add 2%, skimmed

cereals.

For additional nutrients and crunchy

germ,

teaspoon bran,

taste,

milk or lowfat yogurt.

add:

tablespoon wheat

tablespoon sunflower seeds and

teaspoon

brewer's yeast.

Two

one fresh
3

citrus fruits per day, or

fruit.

Two other

one serving fresh citrus juice and

(Arthritics should avoid citrus fruit

and

juices.)

you choose melons, eat them alone or

Melons digest more quickly than other

fresh fruits. If

15 minutes before a meal.

foods and should not be eaten along with foods or after a meal.

Two

servings

raw or

slightly

Three servings raw or

cooked yellow vegetables.

slightly

cooked green and green

leafy

vegetables.

One

six

ounce glass of fresh squeezed vegetable juice, combincabbage, beet, cucumber, sweet green

ing: carrots, celery, parsley,

pepper.

289

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

1

One or two servings sprouts:

mung

alfalfa, lentils,

or soy bean

sprouts.

One serving potato, corn, brown or beans.

9 Three servings
meat, cheese,
8

rice

eggs, soy beans,

protein: fish, fowl,

nuts.

Use low

fat

farmer and cottage cheeses rather than hard

cheeses. Limit eggs to three or four per week.

Use only the

leanest

meats, and skin the chickens before cooking. Bake and broil, do not
fry. If dieting,

keep protein to four ounces at lunch,

six

ounces

at

dinner.

10

Two servings whole grain bread with unsalted butter or marga-

rine.

Try onion or

rather than

garlic

powder and pepper sprinkled on spreads

salt.

you have no weight problem, or wish to provide nutritious

raisins, figs, nuts, and
other dried fruits, chopped up, mixed with peanut butter and rolled
in coconut. Homemade pop corn, toasted soy beans, whole grain
cookies, cakes such as carrot cake and fresh fruit pies made with
honey are healthful alternatives. You can even make delicious, sugarIf

snacks and "fun food" for your family, serve

free ice

cream!

Combine

cup unsweetened frozen strawberries

3 tablespoons frozen

orange juice

2 cups yogurt

Blend and freeze

When

partially frozen,

whip with beater

until

smooth and return

cups with wooden sticks and freeze

can also vary the flavor with unsweetened,

to freezer, or place in small paper

for ice

cream pops. You

canned peaches, pears and pineapple packed

in their

own juices, and

substitute unsweetened, frozen pineapple juice for the orange juice.

If

Another bonus healthful cooking brings is a grease-free kitchen.

you bake and broil, you will not have spatter and the grease

cleanup associated with frying.

When you cook

child

vegetables use two settings: High and Off As a

hated vegetables because they were soggy, limp, colorless and

tasteless.

290

My grandmother boiled everything, and mother was taught

Foods

to

Keep You Young

by her. At Hygiology
cooked vegetables could
I

how

learned

delicious

never forget

taste. I will

raw and

how

slightly

spinach, which

dreaded, became a delicious dish and a salad green

love.

Use a

your pot when you cook vegetables. Put in

an inch or two of water, just enough to make steam. Turn the burner
to High; when steam escapes, turn it Off and depending on the
vegetable, remove it immediately or shortly thereafter. Broccoli,
cauliflower, carrots and beets take a few moments longer than leafy
steamer

stainless steel

in

greens. Vegetables are then crunchy,

When

orange.

and beautifully green, yellow or

spiced with either tarragon, basil, fresh

dill,

chives,

onion powder and a bit of butter or margarine, they

taste great! Experiment with herbs and spices instead of salt.
Salt does nothing for the body except help it retain fluids, and
fennel, garlic or

tastebuds accustomed to over-salting cannot recognize

unsalted foods can be. Shaking salt

all

over food

is

how

delicious

not only harmful

but unnecessary. All prepared and processed foods are salted, but
people reach for
dish.

Any

salt

shakers nevertheless, before they even taste their

foods you buy in the market or eat in a restaurant contain

more than enough

salt to suit

cut back on the salt you eat,

your taste. Why add to it? When you

you will allow the natural flavors to

come through.
Hypertension specialists

cite the diet

of Blacks as slaves as one of

the reasons Black people are so genetically prone to high blood

pressure. In Africa, their natural diet consisted mainly of grains,

vegetables and fruits.

vent spoilage.
just as

Today

As

slaves they ate foods highly salted to pre-

their descendents are paying for the slave diet

your descendants

will reflect

your dietary habits.

The moment you eliminate salt, sugar and white flour you begin
a healthful regime. They are non-nutritive, weight and disease producing and do nothing.

Your

reaction

taste unsalted

is

except taste great, and that's the problem.

understandable. "Eliminate salt? Did you ever

soup?"

have and it can taste delicious ... if you season imaginatively

with pepper and spices such as fennel, thyme, oregano, basil, chives
I

and onion.
at least

If

If

you must have a

salty taste, switch to sea salt

you read

labels consistently

you

will

be aghast at the amount

of sugar, salt and additives you eat every day.

late

which

has some minerals.

only so

much and when you add

to the

The body can

additives, the cumulative effects of all the other sweets

foods you and your family

may

assimi-

and
and junk

hidden sugars,

salt

be eating over a period of time,

it

291

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

The way you

feel

and

the size of your medical and dental bills are good indications of

how

is

no wonder that breakdowns

nutrition

under

and

in health occur.

lifestyle is affecting

thirty-five hopefully

you

you and your family.

will not

If you are
have experienced any ill

if you lack energy, are subject to frequent colds, acute

and flareups of annoying illnesses, then you know your
body is not functioning healthfully. If you are over thirty-five, it is
essential that you begin a program of well-balanced nutritious eating
if you wish to enjoy your later years in good health.
When you cook nutritious foods from scratch, not only will you
save a good deal of money, you will build a firm foundation of health
and longevity for yourself and your family. There are many fine
natural foods cookbooks available. Treat yourself to good health by
reading them and putting them to use.

effect.

But

infections

SPROUTS
Sprouts not only add a distinctive touch to salads, sandwiches,

soups and other dishes, they are important sources of vitamin C,

B-vitamins and minerals, as well as containing some protein. Eating

them every day assures you of quickly assimilated

sprouts should be part of everyone's diet.

now

Many

nutrients,

and

supermarkets and

grown sprouts ready for eating.

them to your diet immediately, but to save money and have a fresher supply, grow your own.
It is easy and fun to do.
Buy only unsprayed seeds which you will find most easily in health
food stores. Alfalfa, lentils, mung beans and soy beans sprout within
a few days. Place a handul of seeds or beans in the bottom of a jar.
Cover with a sieve top sprouting lid or with cheesecloth. Wash
thoroughly; cover with water and let stand overnight. Rinse seeds the
next day in several washings. Turn jar on side so that seeds drain,
and place in oven or a dark cabinet. Continue to rinse growing
sprouts twice daily. They should be ready to eat in three or four days.
Some people toast sprouts lightly to make them crisp.
I remember with amusement how annoyed my daughter was when,
as a little girl, I would garnish her peanut butter sandwiches with
sprouts. Since it was too messy to separate the sprouts from the
health food stores

Buy them

feature fully

so that you can start adding

peanut butter, she had to eat them. Speaking of peanut butter, you've
never tasted real peanut butter until you have tried

292

it

unadulterated,

Foods

to

Keep You Young

absolutely natural, with

Unfortunately

shop

in a health

no added

is difficult

it

salt, fillers

to find such

or hydrogenization.

peanut butter unless you

food store, for few supermarkets carry the natural,

only. If you have a growing

made from peanuts

unsalted butter

family consider buying a peanut butter machine.

By making your

own peanut butter, you will save money in the long run, have a fresh
supply with no additives whenever needed, and a fun experience for
the entire family.

VEGETABLE JUICES
Drinking

six to eight

ounces of freshly squeezed raw vegetable

way to obtain potent vitamins and

For very young children who cannot thoroughly chew raw
vegetables, and for older people who also may have difficulty chewing and digesting raw foods, fresh vegetable juice is a healthful and
tasty alternative. Many nutritionists recommend raw vegetable juices
to alleviate a number of medical problems, and their findings and
recommendations have been published. You will find good books on
how to combine raw vegetable juices and their therapeutic values in

juice daily

is

a quick and easy

minerals.

health food stores.

When

at home, I drink a daily juice which contains: celery, parscucumber, cabbage, sweet pepper, beet and carrots. On the road
I seek out a natural foods store, many of which have juice bars. My
three children were raised on fresh vegetable juice and I took my
ley,

machine on our camping

trips.

Can you imagine the expressions on

when I would ask to plug in my
when my daughter was a baby. I had

the faces of gas station attendants

juicer? It

was a three p.m.

the vegetables,

all

ritual

scrubbed and ready in a plastic bag and quickly

them through the machine. What fun mechanics made of me, but
when I would give them a taste, they were surprised at how delicious
it was. They were also impressed with the way the baby, then only
eight months old, would bounce up and down reaching for the
fed

orange colored

juice.

A vegetable juice machine is a wise investment in good health for

a family or the single person.

an older parent.

It

provides

It is

vital,

an especially thoughtful

gift for

quickly assimilated vitamins and

minerals for those too busy to eat large salads and for those

who

cannot chew or digest raw foods. While juices should never replace
eating raw, fresh vegetables, they are an excellent addition to the diet

293

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

and the perfect alternative for those who resist vegetables.

I have found the Acme stainless steel machine very reliable. It
is a heavy duty machine and I have used it for more than twenty
years. It survived two camping trips. Today the Acme sells for about
$200.00. Many other types of machines are available including more
lightweight, plastic models.

YOGURT
Instead of eating high calorie, sugared fruit yogurts,

own

make your

using fresh, unsweetened strawberries, blueberries, apple

slices,

peaches, pears and cherries in season. Off season use canned, sugarfree, juice

your

packed pears, peaches, pineapple and

fruit

yogurts for nutritious sugar

fruit cocktail.

Freeze

free, sherbert-like treats.

Making your own yogurt from scratch

is

easy and saves you

money. While some use a 200 degree oven overnight, I find a yogurt
machine far more reliable. They cost only about ten dollars and are
well worth the money. I make my yogurt with skim milk powder and
a tablespoon of starter from a container of packaged plain yogurt.
You will find the texture of homemade yogurt lighter, since you will
not add gelatin, and the taste, less tart. If you wish a richer, creamier
yogurt, use whole milk, or better yet, raw milk. However, there will
be more calories in that yogurt and more butterfat. Yogurt
addition to the diet;

it

is

more

easily digested than

is

a fine

milk and

in-

troduces friendly and beneficial intestinal flora into the digestive

tract.

VITAMIN AND MINERAL SUPPLEMENTS

There

is

much

controversy amongst doctors, nutritionists and

health practitioners concerning the necessity for vitamin and mineral

food supplements.

shall not

attempt in this book to explore this

controversy. If you eat a well balanced, nutritious diet, get the proper

amount of exercise and rest, adopt a positive mental attitude, your

body should be able to absorb and assimilate the vitamins and minerals from the natural foods you eat. However, few people are on an
ideal diet, or are eating enough for their needs. Many others have
absorption and assimilation problems. I have witnessed first hand the
remarkable change in people when they added vitamin and mineral

294

Foods

to

Keep You Young

supplements to their
Certainly those

diet. But,

they also changed their eating habits.

who smoke and

drink alcohol require vitamin and

mineral supplementation for the vitamin

and B-complex nutrients

leeched from the body by smoking and drinking. Those

polluted cities also need supplementation.

who

live in

But supplementation

not make a person healthy. It must be incorporated along

program of sensible eating, sufficient exercise and rest.
I take vitamin and mineral supplements daily, prescribed for me by
a physician versed in nutritional counseling. There are a number of
good books concerning vitamins and minerals and I have listed some
at the end of this chapter, but do not attempt to diagnose yourself
and your needs. Instead, consult a physician versed in holistic healing
and nutritional counseling. For the names of practitioners in your

alone

will

with a

area contact:

International

10409

Academy

of Preventative Medicine

Town and Country Way

Suite 200

Houston, Texas 77024

WORD OF CA UTION
TO VEGETARIANS ABOUT PROTEIN

It is

meat,
too

certainly possible to lead a long

little

life

without eating

or fowl. However,

the necessary

amino

acids. If

eating animal protein,

available.

you are a vegetarian or plan

make

Some good books

" by

S.

are: "Protein for Vegetarians,

Moore and M.

to give

sure to read the literature which

Null; "Recipes for a Small Planet,

Diet,

and healthy

many vegetarians I have known have

knowledge about how to combine foods so that they obtain

fish

up
is

" by Gary

" by Ellen Ewald; "A Vegetarian

Byers. Also Rodale Press,

Emmaus,

Pennsylvania has an extensive catalog of health books, which they

will be pleased to send you.

NUTRITION AND THE STUDENT

Sound, healthy nutrition

is

important throughout your

life,

and

the earlier you begin a habit of eating well balanced, natural foods,
the longer you will stay youthful and healthy. While you may think
that because

you are young you can

get

away with junk

foods, fad

295

"I Haven't a Thing

diets
all

To Wear!"

and on-again-off-again food binges, bad eating habits catch up

too quickly.

There are crucial moments in your lifetime when good nutrition

paramount. As a student, your body and mind need all the vitamins and minerals they can absorb to compensate for the mental and
is

when you are preand you need a diet

vitamins C, and B-complex to nour-

physical energies you expend studying, especially

paring for examinations. Taking tests

high in

RNA (ribonucleic acid),

is

stressful

and make you more alert. Complex carbohydrates

and vegetables) will elevate your blood sugar normally, preventing mental and physical fatigue. Protein (meat, fish, fowl, eggs,
cheese, nuts) will keep the blood sugar high, and your mind will
function in high gear assuring you of better grades.
The poorly nourished cannot concentrate and have problems
learning because it is difficult for them to keep their minds focused.
ish brain cells
(fruits

Children are often criticized for "not trying."

ished children "genetically disadvantaged"
deficiencies exist in their family
ble.

backgrounds,

in

if

poorly nour-

generations of diet

this is certainly possi-

an early age would show

their academic performance but in

Good, on-going nutrition begun

remarkable results not only

Some call

and

at

and behavior.
As a student, if you rely on coffee, danish, candy bars, and cigarettes to see you through nights of studying and preparing for difficult exams, you set yourself up for unstable blood sugar and fatigue
which will result in decreased mental abilities and loss of memory.
their personalities

Your grades cannot help but

suffer.

Instead of the coffee-danish-

donuts-candy bar-routine, switch to peanut butter or sardine sandwiches on whole grain breads (good sources of nucleic acid and
B-vitamins as well as protein); celery, sweet pepper, carrot

sticks,

chunks of raw cabbage and cheeses, (vitamins C, A and protein);

apples and nuts, or dried fruits and nuts (complex carbohydrates and
protein.)

Before the

test,

drink a

tall

glass of orange juice with protein

powder or take liver protein capsules. Stay off cigarettes which narrow blood vessels (lessening blood flow to the brain, and oxygen to
the brain cells). Avoid all caffeine (coffee, tea, cola drinks, chocolate),
which stimulate the pancreas to release insulin. Do not eat simple
sugars such as candy, cookies and cake which will give you quick
energy and raise blood sugar, but only temporarily. The higher and
faster blood sugar leaps, the lower it crashes, and the crash might just
coincide with your

296

tests.

Foods

to

Keep You Young

The same is true for anyone facing critical decisions, or involved

work which requires a great deal of mental energy. Much has been
made of the fact that a number of writers, especially poets, have
in

committed suicide. Others die of alcoholism. Writing drains much

mental and nerve energy and writers are notorious for drinking large
amounts of coffee, alcohol and smoking excessively. Many others
munch constantly, mostly on sweets. Coffee, alcohol, chocolate and
sugar cause sharp, unstable rises and falls in blood sugar levels which
set off many neurotic symptoms. Smoking narrows blood vessels
cutting circulation to the brain. And coffee, alcohol, sweets and
nicotine are vitamin B and vitamin C antagonists which leech the
system of these necessary, nerve strengthening nutrients.

Low blood

sugar has been linked to severe depression. In Russia and in some

cities in

illness

the United States, orthomolecular psychiatrists treat mental

with diet and vitamins. Could

incidence of suicide in serious writers

it

not be then that the high

may be due

to these physical

causes rather than to the aesthetic and artistic reasons which have

been usually associated with their breakdowns?

NUTRITION AND SPOR TS

Competitive athletes

know

the value of well balanced, nutritious

For runners, swimmers, skiers, ball players, or any other

athlete, good diet can make the difference between winning or losing.
If you have a young child who hopes to make the football team,
become a gymnast or participate competitively in any sport, pay
close attention to what he or she eats. Athletes need a proper combination of complex carbohydrates and proteins, but many young men
load up on too much protein to build muscle.
Recently I read of a young man who went into concentrated
training for college football. He was eighteen, the star halfback of his
high school football team, but he lacked the size needed for college
and eventually the pro circuit. He began daily workouts with
weights, eating enormous amounts of meat plus protein supplements.
By the time he entered college, he had put on fifty pounds, plus a
good deal of muscle. He made the college team, continuing to eat
large amounts of protein. When he graduated college he was offered
eating.

At twenty-two years of age, he developed cancer. The

our local papers was a plea for funds to aid in his

a pro contract.
last story in

treatments.

297

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

The high metabolic rate which the body puts forth to utilize the
we eat shortens the life span of some cells and causes aging.
Excess protein causes the body engine to "idle" faster than normal
and since cancer is a disease of abnormal cell growth and activity,
could this young man's overloading on protein have triggered the
protein

onset of his cancer?

Excess protein
because

it

is

also a dangerous source of energy for athletes

increases the need for fluids,

which an

athlete sweats away.

Dr. Nathan Smith, professor of sports medicine at the University of

Washington

in Seattle, discourages athletes

from eating too much

protein because the nitrogen by-products, a result of protein metabolization, require water so that they can be excreted in the

urine by the kidneys. If

an

form of

athlete sweats heavily, he or she

can

become dehydrated, and according to Dr. Smith many of the deaths

which occur on the football practice field happen because athletes,
trying to build themselves up on protein, lose water, which prevents
them from dissipating body heat. This causes collapse and death
from heat stroke.
Excess in any form leads to overload. Overloads lead to imbalance,
and nutritional imbalance results in severe health problems.

NUTRITION AND PREGNANCY

Good health habits, nutrition, exercise, rest and a happy frame of
mind help assure a healthy mother and a healthy baby. Every spark
of life is so precious, it behooves a mother-to-be to give her unborn
child the best chance she can! Having and raising a child is the
ultimate experience for any woman! It is such an especially beautiful
time in a woman's life and it can be so pleasant when there is no
discomfort, or pain. I remember my pregnancies with fondness because I felt so great during all of them. I was 36 when I gave birth
to my daughter and worked full time almost to the day she was born.
I

even took

my

typewriter to the hospital!

Even if you are dilettantish about your diet ordinarily, during the
nine months of your pregnancy, forego those foods and bad habits
which can make such a difference in the way you feel and the health
of your child-to-be. Recent studies cite alcohol, caffeine, nicotine,
marijuana and other drugs as causing damage to the fetus. A healthy
child is not so much a matter of "God's will," as it is the mother's
dedication to the life she carries. There is much less chance for

298

Foods

Keep You Young

to

genetic defects

if

the mother avoids cigarettes, alcohol, pot and other

if not completely on coffee, tea,

and chocolates, which all contain caffeine.
Should a woman become ill or uncomfortable during pregnancy
and her physician prescribes medication, she should question him

drugs and cuts back substantially

cola drinks

closely about possible side effects, especially as they concern the

unborn child. Sad lessons have been learned because of thalidomide

and D.E.S. Avoid all over-the-counter, non-prescriptive drugs for
headaches, colds, nausea and other minor problems, because they too
could be harmful.

NUTRITION AND MENOPA USE

Many subtle, biochemical changes take place in the body of a
woman in midlife, which make her especially prone to metabolic
problems. Since nutrition affects body chemistry,

it is

essential that

woman

approaching menopause be on a well balanced diet.

Hormonal changes affect the nervous system and the glands, with the
the

and

adrenals, pancreas, thyroid

pituitary particularly vulnerable.

High-protein diets and refined sugars are calcium antagonists, drawing calcium from the bones.

Calcium absorption decreases with age

because of hormonal changes can
cause osteoporosis, a disease in which bones become brittle. Many
post-menopausal women suffer from this ailment, and a diet high in
protein and sugar increases the tendency to osteoporosis and aggraand the additional calcium

lost

vates existing conditions.

Sugar

is

also a vitamin

B and

vitamin

C antagonist, vitamins which

Thus the mature woman who eats a

lot of sugared foods can become excessively nervous and emotional.
Menopausal women can be free of annoying symptoms associated
with the changes occurring in their bodies and enjoy extraordinary
good health with no need for estrogen treatments which increase the
are required for healthy nerves.

risk of breast cancer.

A well balanced diet of fresh fruits, vegetables,

grains, nuts, poultry

and

ing with vitality!

is,

the

more

keeps the body youthful and function-

active

easily she will coast

a great time in a
lessened.

fish

The more

She

is

woman's

life!

freer than ever!

her most. Sexually, she

is

and involved the mature woman

through

this

changeable period.

Most family

responsibilities

It's

have

She can pursue that which interests

No longer dependent on birth

stronger!

control, nor fearing pregnancy, she can allow her passions to flow

299

"I Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

fully.

She

is

her most beautiful, a fully ripened, interesting

at

Like fully ripened

fruit

woman.

or wine, at her peak!

NUTRITION AND TRAVEL

To

travel in high gear, enjoying every

experience

all

moment, super-charged to
good

that interesting travel brings, requires energy,

health and the vitality to bounce back quickly

when inclement

weather, mixed-up reservations, missed connections and other disapIf you travel for business, meeting new challenges
your timetable requires that you be vigorous, alert and
positive. The foods you eat, therefore, while on the road are extremely important. Nothing destroys a journey as quickly as stomach ailments and other acute illnesses.

pointments occur.

as well as

The following hints will help you stay healthy and hearty.
Avoid fast food places because they specialize in quick cooking,
which means deep fat frying, producing high-calorie, high-fat, highprofit foods which are low in nourishment. Save your money instead
for better restaurants which offer a wide choice of salads, fish,
chicken, meats, fruits and vegetables.

BREAKFAST
you money and also gives you a
on the day because you eliminate high-fat restaurant
breakfasts. A nourishing breakfast is such a simple meal to put
together. It is easily packed in a small carrier, sack or even your
attache' case. Granola, nuts, an apple or banana offer vitamins, minerals and protein. Buy a glass of milk (free on planes) or a container
of yogurt. Add granola and fruit for a delicious meal. I much prefer
this type of morning meal to horrible airline breakfasts which are
Bagging

it

for breakfast saves

healthier start

high in calories,

fats,

sugar and taste as plastic as the trays on which

they come.
Breakfast at Brennan's

is

a different matter. All then

is

permissi-

Other than that, there are many healthier alternatives to the

bacon and eggs routine. Unsweetened cereals, high in fiber, with
some bran content mixed with fresh fruit, and low fat milk or yogurt
have less cholesterol and more energy producing properties than
grease laden egg dishes. If breakfast is not breakfast to you without
eggs and something, switch to poached or boiled eggs with Canadian
ble.

bacon or ham. You've cut down on the

300

fat calories,

but

still

satisfied

Foods
your

to

Keep You Young

Whole grain breads and

desire.

muffins have

than white bread and certainly more

more

protein value

vitamins.

About the "Fortified" and "Enriched" breads, Dr. E.V. McCollum of John Hopkins University said: "In the manufacture of white
flour, a score or more of essential nutrients present in significant
amounts in the wheat kernel are removed. To give such flour supplied with three vitamins and iron so good a name as 'enriched' is
misleading."

And why

eat only the breakfast

menu? The other

has some great foods for breakfast!

What about

side of the card

broiled fish

tomatoes, or a large fresh fruit salad and cottage cheese?

and

Make

breakfast on the road as interesting an adventure as your journey!

The most memorable breakfast on our two camping trips was the
we were coming out of the Black Hills in South
Dakota and stumbled on a back road diner, set next to a tumbling
stream. The sign over the door stopped us. It read, "Fresh Trout."
Although we had intended to eat fruit, nuts and cereal at a gorge
further down the road, we went inside and feasted on trout and
pancakes made with fresh blueberries. The taste of that breakfast and
the ambience remains a vivid memory that we often talk about.
misty morning

LUNCH
Many money-wise

travelers eat their

prices are lower. Eating lightly at night

main meal
is

at

lunch

far healthier

when

and while

traveling you can often buy dinner in local markets or in cafeterias,

where they have wholesome and varied selections. If lunch is to be
your main meal, avoid the greasy kid stuff: hot dogs, hamburgers,

french

fries, fried fish,

or cold cuts, and hard cheeses.

fattening, high in cholesterol

and have

than green salads, broiled chicken,

fish,

less

They

are

all

vitamins and minerals

lean roast beef, shrimp, fresh

Avoid also anything made with mayonnaise or other dressings:

tuna, egg, ham, chicken, shrimp and potato salads and cole slaw.
Much better to order a chefs salad or a cutup salad in which you
can see all the ingredients, with dressing on the side. That way you
fruit.

will

know

if

the lettuce

is

limp.

no problem, enjoy sandwiches. Sliced turkey, chicken,

(not chicken loaf) and roast beef on whole grain breads are better
choices than ham and cheese sandwiches, grilled hamburgers and
meat loaves. The latter often contain fillers and other ingredients you
If

weight

is

know nothing

about.

301

"I Haven't a Thing

To Wear!"

Shrimp, crabmeat, oyster and clam cocktails with hot sauce are
low-calorie ideas for a light lunch or dinner, along with a green salad

and

fresh fruit.

Raw

can be chancey because

shellfish

many

shellfish

beds have become polluted with chemicals and other wastes.

Fresh

fruit is the best

choice for dessert. Cut-up

contain sugar, and the fruit in salads

may

fruit salads often

not be fresh.

DINNER
Many journeys and cities are remembered for the food enjoyed and
the restaurants visited. If

you have saved money during the day by

you can afford to spend more at night.

eating from the local markets,

If

you are dieting or have a

sensitive stomach, avoid anything fried,

covered with sauces or hidden in casseroles. Restaurant cooking

neither low calorie, low

salt,

is

nor low sugared. While you can make

low calorie sauces, casseroles and desserts

at

home, you can be

assured that Monsieur Chef will put his best foot forward with the
richest,

Low

most luscious combinations.

calorie, healthful foods in fine restaurants are especially tasty

because they are good quality. Salads are green and crisp, tomatoes
pungent, cooked vegetables top grade, and served crunchy, delicately
flavored. Broiled fish (no butter sauce), chicken, shrimp, turkey, lean
roast beef

and London

broil are excellent choices. Fresh fruit

and

cheese will round out a healthy, nourishing and delicious meal.

Ethnic foods are also good choices: Chinese and Japanese dishes,
shish kebabs with chicken, seafood,
tropical fruit salads.

You can keep

and

vegetables,

Greek

salads,

super healthy on any journey!

should be aware of how some

them with food and alcohol to help
close deals. Heavy, wine-laden lunches make you sluggish, slow your
mental processes and lower your defenses! Whenever you have an

Highly charged, top

level executives

salespeople skillfully manipulate

important decision to make, eat

lightly!

NUTRITION AND SCHOOLS, HOSPITALS

AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS

Where sound, healthy nutrition is needed most, it is at its worst!
The food served in school lunch rooms is unpardonable, and the only

302

Foods

way
it.

Keep You Young

to

to beat

Good

it

is

to

pack your children's lunch and insist they eat

home, hopefully, will encourage your chil-

eating habits at

dren, even though they eat junk foods, to adopt

measures eventually. There

is

more

healthful

a glimmer of hope with school lunches.

Enlightened administrators in some states have removed soda and

candy machines and are changing menus. You can help this movement by taking an active role in your local schools and making the
lunch room project a major priority!
The situation in hospitals and other institutions is depressing. I
firmly believe hospital food is intended to keep you a patient. Insisting on a special menu, as I did the two times I was hospitalized, helps

you overcome somewhat, but it is still bad. As for those institutionalized on a long term basis, bring them fresh fruit, granola, whole grain
breads and cookies, honey, nuts, pure peanut butter, when you visit.

NUTRITION AND DIET

Every diet works! The only secret ingredient in any diet is you. If
your discipline is unshaking, you will reap results the moment you
cut back on calories and step up your activity. Some diets are soundly
based in well balanced eating and bring long-range results, enabling
you to reasonably change your eating habits into a lifelong regime.
Others are extremely dangerous because they promise you quick
results, and do little to change the eating habits which cause you to
diet constantly. I tell you two grim tales only to alert you to what
can happen to a healthy person, sophisticated in nutrition, who goes
on unbalanced diets, even when they are supervised by medical
practitioners.
in my
my body

As with many women, weight became more of a problem

late forties,

because of maturing metabolism and changes in

My good

friend, Sandy Sprung, and I had

book which featured a well-balanced
diet. It detailed Sandy's final triumph in working her way down from
over 250 pounds to a svelte 139! At five feet, nine and a half inches
tall, Sandy is now truly trim, and she has maintained this weight
for seven years! The book was published by Tandem Press in 1973
and is entitled, Candy, Chocolate, Ice Cream TV How To Lick
'Em!" During the writing Sandy would be frustrated because

of which

was unaware.

written a funny, effective, diet

303

7 Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

I

could lose weight so easily after a particularly delicious binge or

tour.

my undoing. My
my physical activity great. I would

This ability to lose weight rapidly was ultimately

diet

was

my

rationalize

cheating
tions

our

we

and

essentially nutritious

cheating by declaring, "I burn

did was not important, but

it

off."

it

I felt

that the

was! All the youthful addic-

think are so harmless begin to accumulate and

when we

hit

our bodies rebel with a vengeance!

late forties,

In November 1972, after a heavy lecture schedule and a busy

summer of reconstructing the cabin from a weekend retreat to an all

year residence,

pounds!
I

How

was

learned about fasting during

on a regular
days.

basis for

many

good

rest. I

naturopath with

was

lost

longest fast being seventeen

and I had always

would fast under
from a busy tour and would

weight on a

fast

decided this time

results. I

supervision, because

appreciate the

my
my

years,

knew how quickly one

fasted with

I had gained twenty

up on you!
years at Hygiology and fasted

horrified to realize that

insidiously weight can creep

older, tired

checked into a fasting spa

many

in Florida

run by a

years of fasting experience. But he was not

It was not a happy fast. I had

had never experienced on other fasts,
and I told the director of these. He said, just to hang in there. On
the 1 1th day, reactions were severe and he broke my fast on diluted
fruit juice. At five the next morning, I awakened, my hands and feet
numb, my eyes blurry. My heart began to race rapidly and suddenly
I had crushing chest pains. The director phoned his medical advisor
who immediately called for an ambulance. I was rushed to West
Palm Beach Hospital where a cardiologist was waiting.
My luck was with me, because the cardiologist was also a board
certified endocrinologist and realized what had happened. I had gone
into starvation diabetes and was close to a diabetic coma. I had never
had any indication of diabetes, but I had a hidden tendency to
hypoglycemia and this was what the fast triggered.
I was admitted to the hospital for five days with a blood sugar well
over 290, and a uric acid level that was "off the charts" as the doctor
grimly put it. He was furious that I had not been monitored more
carefully on the fast and that my earlier symptoms had been ignored.
As soon as I began to eat balanced meals, all the symptoms disappeared and even my glucose tolerance test returned to normal.
Many current books tout fasting as the answer to quick weight

prepared for what happened to me.

many annoying symptoms

304

Foods

to

Keep You Young

Fasting elevates uric acid levels which can be harmful to the

loss.

kidneys. Fasting also releases toxins into the bloodstream quickly,

which your body might not be able to expel as rapidly as needed.

Fasting can be beneficial and cleansing, but not in all cases. It can
seriously affect your health if you have hidden problems such as
hypoglycemia.

Do

not attempt to fast without expert advice

and a

thorough medical checkup which should include a glucose tolerance

test.

Fasting for weight loss

is

not successful in the long run, because the

weight one loses on a fast

is

just as quickly regained.

frequently for weight control leads to a yo-yo

in

blood sugar disturbances and elevated uric acid

Fad

diets are

Fasting

syndrome which

results

levels.

dangerous because they upset body chemistry and

unsuccessful because they are not long range. High-protein diets are
particularly hazardous, especially for

women

approaching midlife.

was being considered for a proposed syndicated

television show. I needed to be thinner than I was and I did not have
much time. I knew I could never attempt to fast again, and while the
"On-OfF" diet of which Sandy and I wrote is effective, like all good,
In July 1977,

well-balanced diets

weight was up.

it

takes time.

Nor could

understand

why my

was jogging daily, eating sensibly, but I had gained.

I decided to consult a well known, high-protein diet specialist.
I gave a complete and detailed history to the doctor and his staff.
I included the fact I was hypoglycemic and required a balanced
proportion of carbohydrates, protein and fat. The prescription had
been worked out for me by Dr. Ralph Shaw of Philadelphia, perhaps
I

the nation's leading expert in blood sugar disturbances.

high-protein priest said the reason for my weight gain was

was eating too high a proportion of carbohydrate grams. I
queried him closely about this, showing him Dr. Shaw's prescription
and the diet which had been worked out. He assured me his highprotein program was particularly suitable for anyone with a hypoglycemic problem, that I would experience no reactions and would
lose weight safely. Who was I to argue with the great and famous

The

that

man?

To make a very long and painful story as succinct as possible, it

took just seven days on the high-protein diet before I became frighteningly

ill.

landed in the hospital with surging bouts of high blood

pressure and chest pains.

On my

first

visit

had never had high blood pressure before.

my pressure was

to the high-protein specialist

305

'I

Haven't a Thing To Wear!"

30/70, and this after driving two hours, parking

my car and walking

to his office in 100 degree heat!

Just one

week

later

my pressure was

170/1

for nine days before they could stabilize

phoned the famous man

the hospital,
for

10! I

was

in the hospital

him what occurred, he never called

never checked on me and I was his well paying patient
to

tell

whom he should have been professionally responsible.

later

my family

me! Even though

found out

he was not associated with any hospitals and avoided them.

I was put on a balanced diet with a normal proporcomplex carbohydrates and fats and at the end of
nine day stay, my blood pressure had returned to normal and I

In the hospital
tion of proteins,

my

passed a cardiac stress

test.

That was the summer eleven women my age died as a result of

liquid high-protein diets, and while I had not been on a liquid highprotein regime, my symptoms were similar.
Dr. Ralph A. Nelson, associate professor of nutrition at the University

of South Dakota, in cautioning people regarding high-protein

diets states:

"Excess protein causes a higher concentration of urea in

Urea contains the by-products of protein metabolism and

intended to be excreted by the kidneys, and anyone with malfunc-

the blood.
is

tioning kidneys or liver could accumulate so

actually go into a
Is this

coma

much

urea they could

or even die."

what happened to me, and to the

women who

died while

on

high-protein diets? Protein intake also affects the body's calcium

and calcium

an important factor in the function of the

is our most important muscle, a
loss of calcium can be life threatening. Calcium loss is very substantial among protein eaters, especially women. Dr. Helen Linkswiler,
professor of nutritional sciences at the University of Wisconsin, is
concerned about women and high-protein diets. "Something seems
to be happening in the kidney that promotes calcium loss," she stated
in a recent article. "I am most concerned about dieters eating lots of
meat. I think low-calcium and high-protein diets are devastating."
A woman's body chemistry is extremely fragile as she approaches
balance,

is

muscles of the body. Since the heart

menopause and any

diet

which

a younger person. All the

is

unbalanced

women who

affects her

more than

died in 1977 on the liquid

high-protein diet were over forty!

Diet and nutrition are indivisible. Never sacrifice sound nutrition

for any diet. There are many well balanced diets you can choose
from. Dr. Neil Solomon proposes a sensible, well balanced regime in
his book.

306

The various

diet groups:

Weight Watchers, TOPS, Diet

Foods

to

Keep You Young

Workshop, all are low-calorie, nutritionally sound, long-range plans

which help you change your eating habits permanently. The faster
you lose weight, the faster it comes back on. The trick is not how
much weight you lose, but how long you keep it off, and that means
eating well planned, low-calorie, low-fat, nutritious foods for the rest

of your

life!

Suggested reading:

The Complete Book of Vitamins For Health

Rodale Books, Emmaus, Pa.

The Complete Book of Minerals For Health

Rodale Books, Emmaus, Pa.
Harcourt Brace

Let's Eat Right, Adelle Davis

Let' s

Adelle Davis New American Library

Have Healthy Children
Cookbook for Hyperactive Children
Dr. Benjamin Feingold, Random House

Feingold

Emanuel Cheraskin
Your Mind, George Watson
The Psychochemical Response, George Watson
Psychodietetics, Dr.

Stein

& Day
Bantam

Nutrition and

Harper & Row

Pocketbooks

Supernutrition, Richard Passwater

Signet
Brenna
Times Natural Foods Cookbook, Jean Hewitt
Quadrangle Press
York Times Natural Foods Dieting Book, Yvonne Tarr
Quadrangle Press

Nutrigenetics, Dr. R.O.

New York
New

Diet for a Small Planet, Frances

Recipes for a Small Planet, Ellen

Moore Lappe'
Buchman Ewald

Drink Your Troubles Away, John Lust

The Ortho-Molecular Approach to Learning
Cott

Ballantine
Ballantine
(self

published)

Dr. Alan
Academic Therapy

Disabilities,

The Food Depression Connection, June Roth

Contemporary Books
Nutrition and Mental Function, George Serban
Plenum Books
Nutritional Disorders of American Women, Myron Winick
Wiley
Malnutrition

&

Intellectual

Development,

&

Sons

J.B. Lloyd-Still

PSG, 1976

307

18
Relax

And

Regenerate

is an art which frees a cluttered mind, making it recepand responsive to new discoveries. My ripest thoughts seem to

Relaxation
tive

come

at the

moment I am about

to drift off to sleep,

loosened from a busy day, begins a

unknown.

silent,

when my mind,

passive exploration of the

How I wish I could corral those thoughts more efficiently!

have not fully fallen asleep and have the will, I rise to jot them
down. Invariably they are my most provocative and productive
If I

ideas.

Few

of us have the leisure or the desire to spend. our days on

in contemplation. How then do we control frenetic
How do we effect a compromise between what we must do,

mountaintops
activity?

what we enjoy doing, and the needs of our mind and body to relax,
rest and regenerate?
Sleep of course is the most soothing solution.
"What the will and reason are powerless to remove, sleep melts
like snow in water," stated British writer, Walter John de la Mare,
noted for his poems of childhood.

As

children

we

slept peacefully.

The

Long hours of

restful

slumber

and sleep soundly lessens

as we mature. Our minds become taut and stretched like violin
strings, and the advice of Arthur Wellesley, the first Duke of Wellington, is painfully apt: "When one begins to turn in bed, it is time
generated our growth.

to turn out!"

308

ability to relax

Relax and Regenerate

The

body

reaction of the

sleep soundly.

The

tired,

and relaxation is paradoxical.

by with little rest, relax easily and

to rest

who can

Healthy, active people

get

rundown, debilitated person who needs

rest

most finds sleep as elusive as the snail darter.

Relaxing your mind and insuring that you get enough sleep enables you to meet the challenges that each day brings with a healthy,
positive attitude. Physical exercise helps relax the mind and induce
sleep. Take a walk after dinner, or turn on the radio or record player
and dance around the room. Do the exercises suggested at the end
of the chapter on physical fitness. Body movement relaxes muscles
and clears the kaleidescopic clutter of the mind. While writing this

book,

lengthened

my

two additional miles

daily four miles of walking to six, adding the

in the evening.

Taking

advantage of

full

retreat to Florida to finish the text, I spent half

my

my

lunch hour

to 60 laps. Whenever I became bogged down with an

was difficult to transfer to paper, I closed my eyes for a few
moments, breathed deeply and let my brain loosen. When I first
began to write, I would tire after an hour. Now I can write close to
seven hours a day, taking frequent mind breaks, walking at dawn and
dusk and swimming at noon.
Taking the time to fit early morning and evening walks into your
day enables you to be more efficient, and helps you to relax and sleep
peacefully. If you are close to a "Y" or health club, swim during your
lunch hour. Many business people are doing this and find their
energy levels heightened. If you do not care for swimming, take a
walk during lunch to ease tensions. The tautness which begins in the
back of your neck and spreads throughout your body eventually

swimming 50
idea that

takes a terrible toll of your nervous system. Spinal problems, muscle

strains, pinging nerves,

and chronic disease can

all

begin with ten-

sion.

Exercise and meditation protect your

mind and body. Unnatural

relaxing agents such as: non-prescriptive anti-depressents, sleeping

remedies, pain killers, prescription sleeping

pills,

Quaaludes, mari-

juana, and other drugs are not only harmful to the individual taking

them, but to their descendants.

I

disagree with

my young friends that marijuana is harmless, and

me correct. I feel that marijuana should

recent studies have proven

be legalized so as to eliminate the criminal element and give legal

sources better control and regulation over
ing marijuana

is

as deadly as

smoking

its

distribution, but

cigarettes.

As

these

smokyoung

309

Wear!"

"I Haven't a Thing To

grow older they will realize how

and their potential

users

faculties, their health

mental and physical

their
life

span have been harmed

by their use of pot.

Wiping the matrix of the mind clean through meditation unleashes
Without fail, better thoughts
it so that it can find its own way.
emerge. My son taught me to meditate after I was released from the

my reactions to the high-protein diet.

Two days before I was discharged, a fire in my mother's home next

hospital following

door

killed eight

of her breeding poodles, wiped out sentimental

possessions as well as publishing stock

we

stored in our basement.

He

from the West Coast. Concerned with the pressures I

faced, he took me aside my first day home and instructed me in

had flown

in

meditation.

The meditative breathing he taught me has enabled me to relax

more easily and to recognize when tensions begin to build. At first it
was very difficult to wipe my mind clean. My son cautioned me that
the powerful ego of the mind would interfere with intruding
thoughts. I was to allow these visions to tumble over each other while
I concentrated on the breathing and the movement of my diaphragm.
I

my

sat with

hands

in

my

my

lap,

head relaxed,

diaphragm. Soon
shallower.

felt

brow seemed
Since then
fifteen to

lost

My

fingers loosened.
liquid.

could actually

my

scalp

to widen

feel

air as

eyes closed.

it

tension flow out of

my

My

body.

neck, spine, arms, legs and muscles turned

let

go. There

and

my

was a

tingling in

ears lengthened.

try to meditate daily. Invariably

my

almost

My

head.
fell

asleep.

sleep afterwards for

twenty minutes, awakening refreshed and regenerated.

You can

meditate anywhere!

to Las Vegas,

when our plane

Once on a
hit

terrible flight

from Reno

a mountain wave and dropped

thousand feet, while others screamed,

began to count breaths.
several

To

my

came up from my
count. The breathing became slower and

counted the slow intake and outgo of

closed

my

eyes

and

you good back

headboard of your bed. Some people
cross their feet Indian style. I prefer to keep mine spread with the
knees bent. Place your hands in your lap, palms up, fingers loose.
Close your eyes. Allow your head to sag naturally. Begin to breathe
in (your stomach will move out). Breathe out (your stomach moves
in). Concentrate only on these movements and the breathing. Count
the breaths. Do not be concerned if you lose count; you will. Allow
meditate: Sit relaxed in a chair that gives

support, or

310

sit

up

against the

Relax and Regenerate

itself out. Think only of
Soon you will feel the sensations I
described earlier and your breathing will become easy and rhythmic.
The pictures in your mind may or may not disappear, it takes time to

whatever moves through your mind to play

the breathing and the counting.

get results.
ally, after

or

You may

fall

asleep.

Give in to whatever comes. Eventuwill come out of the meditation

about twenty minutes you

wake up from

the sleep.

Your

pulse will be slower

and you

will feel

rested, at ease.

My

mother meditates by reading passages from her Bible, repeatand over. It relaxes her mind and body.

ing the prayers by rote, over

who

For centuries those

prayed concentratedly

in religious rituals

practiced meditation as they chanted. Often the chanting

bined with rhythmic body movements.

participation in prayer does

and

is

much to

The

free the

was comand

religious experience

mind from personal care

a form of meditation.

Controlled daydreams are another

pleasant

it is

to

sit

at

way

to relax the mind.

How

a desk and turn one's thought to a far-off beach

or ski slope, rather than to the

work

piled thereon.

Do not

feel guilty

about taking a few moments out of the day to muse about something

Remember that "a mind all logic, is like a knife all blade, it
hand of he who uses it." I think often of these words by the
Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore whenever I become uptight about
schedules and what needs to be done. Meditative daydreams
realistically employed are therapeutic, provided you realize they are a
method to escape tensions. Daydreaming constantly without doing, is
beautiful.

cuts the

illness which requires professional assistance.

Massage in all its varied forms, and loving, fulfilling sex are perhaps the most enjoyable means of inducing relaxation and restful
sleep. Whichever methods you choose: exercise, meditation, prayers,
daydreams, massage, sex; make time every day to relax, rest and

an

regenerate.

Good

health habits encompassing the

mind nourishment

we have

full

spectrum of body and

make you a more

and happy person. You can do whatever you
want to do, when you have the physical and mental strength, the
ability, the will to unleash the power of your creative potential!
that

just explored

positive, productive,

311

19
Unleasing The Power

Of

Creative Potential

more than ability unleashes the power of creative potenyou believe unequivocably that you can do it, you will!
I was in Acapulco one January and had swum out with my friend
to the raft which bobs in the bay about 100 yards off the Hilton Hotel
beach. It was a beautiful day, and the swim was delightful. Just as
we approached the raft, my friend, pretending to be a predatory fish,
grabbed at my toe. I yelped, and as I opened my mouth, the cap on
Attitude,

tial.

If

my front tooth came loose. Horrified, I watched it sink to the bottom.

When my friend surfaced and saw me sans tooth he was compassionately gallant, remarking

him

how

cute and school girlish

moment.

looked.

We

had been
invited to a cocktail party that evening at the home of Merle Oberon
and I very much wanted to meet this remarkable woman. I was not
about to go without a front tooth! I began to dive, but I had no
goggles and could see nothing. The water was over forty feet deep
and I could only get about halfway down before having to surface
did not believe

for a

was miserable.

for air.

We headed back
funny.

to shore,

As we came

beach boys

my

friend laughing.

He

thought

it

very

out of the water, Harry yelled to the Mexican

in front of the hotel,

"Ten

dollars

American

if

you

find

He made me open my mouth to show them!

dozen bronzed men dashed into the surf. Harry and

the lady's tooth!"

More than a
swam out with them and showed them

might

312

be.

about where we thought it

Within minutes a grinning brown face appeared and in his

Unleashing the Power of Creative Potential

hand was

my

cap!

could not believe

only once, and there

it!

He wore no

goggles, dove

was! Holding the cap aloft and laughing

it

On

uproariously he headed for shore.

the beach the diver ceremoni-

ously handed the cap over to me, amidst the laughter and astonish-

ment of the crowds which had gethered. Turning

"You see, Judy, anything is possible with ten

I, who am so positive about most things was

to me,

Harry

said,

dollars American!'

truly astounded.

To

such a small item, in such a big bay, in continually shifting water

and sand, and to find it so quickly was amazing!
The young men who swam out into the bay did not question the
find

possibilities.

They had confidence

reason for not trying.

am

in their abilities

and could see no

sure they would have kept on trying until

they eventually achieved success.

you believe you can do something, you will develop the ability
do it, even if you cannot do it at the very beginning! This confidence, this belief, is the first step to creativity. Motive, means and
opportunity help strengthen creative accomplishment, and audacity
If

to

puts

it

over the top!

For some, developing confidence is a torturous, slow growth.

Those with reserved, cautious natures build confidence by searching
their inner selves and continually testing their reactions and abilities.
They fear making mistakes.
Others, with a carefree

more

easily

spirit of adventure, achieve confidence

through the "oops" method of trial and error. Pve learn-

ed a good deal from

my

Whenever she makes a mistake,

thought I had a spirit
of adventure, but it pales beside hers. The "oops" attitude keeps you
young, because nothing ever becomes so serious that you won't give
it a whirl. This is what opens the door to creativity.
When you laugh at yourself, your inhibitions, your faults, and

she laughs and says,

daughter.

"Oops," and

your feeble attempts, anything

is

tries again. I

possible.

This

is

the secret to un-

leashing the power of creative potential!

Everyone has an inherent capacity for

creativity,

and

creativity

emerges more from abstract ideas and intuition than reason. Reason

can be tyrannical,

"ANYTHING
creative urges!

telling

IS

you

"you can 7 do

POSSIBLE!" Do

Dare

to

that.

" Intuition cries,

not allow reason to chain your

do! Experiment! Each experiment becomes an

experience and each experience generates and strengthens your

creative expression giving

May you

you the courage and impetus

to continue!

enjoy unleashing the power of your creative potential

the days of your

all

life!

313

"DON'T BE A PENNILESS

FASHION VICTIM.
BE CREATIVE.'//
In more than 3000 lectures and hundreds of radio and TV appearances,
Judith Keith has shown millions of
women how to dress smashingly on a
shoestring. Now you can learn to look
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world... and swing from trend to trend
without wasting a fortune on fads.

START WITH THE 5 FASHION BASICS...

like it? Contour: If it doesn't flatter the shape
doesn't cost a cent to create with color. Classics:
versatile, elegant (not expensive) classics. Coordination: Don't

Comfort:
you're in,

Choose

be afraid

Is

it's

it

you?

Will

out! Color:

to dress

he

It

up your own

individuality.

...AND LET IMAGINATION TAKE

MONEY RUNS OUT.

OVER WHEN

Using easy instructions and illustrations, Judith Keith tells you how to turn
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INTERIOR ILLUSTRATIONS BY LEE VVYDRA

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