Shoulder Length: Basic Bodice

Shoulder Length
Extension Family Development

and Resource Management Specialists
Pattern
Alteration
Pattern
Alteration
E-380
08-06
efore attempting these alterations, review Exten-
sion publications E-372, Principles of Pattern Altera-
tion, and E-373, Personal Measurement Chart, for ba-
sic instructions. Refer to E-381, Shoulder Slope, to determine
if the pattern should be adjusted for shoulder slope rather
than shoulder length. To determine how much you need
to alter, refer to line 8 on the Personal Measurement Chart.
Make this alteration on front and back pattern pieces.
Basic Bodice
Wide or broad shoulders will cause the armhole seam-
line at the shoulder to pull inward. They will also cause the
cap of set-in sleeves to pull and ride up. Sleeves will appear
too short and not hang properly (Fig.1).
Narrow shoulders will cause the armhole seamline to
extend over the top of the shoulder. Sleeves will appear too
long and will not hang properly (Fig. 2).
B
Figure 1.
Figure 2.
2 .................................................................................................................................................................................
Follow these steps to make your alterations:
1. Measure in 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the armhole seam-
line along the shoulder seamline. Mark this point and
draw a diagonal line from there to the notch at the
armhole seamline.
2. Slash the line to, but not through, the armhole seamline.
Clip the armhole seam allowance at the notch to the
seamline (Fig. 3).
To lengthen:
Place tissue paper under the pattern and spread the
armhole section by the amount you need. The clipped seam
allowance will lap (Fig. 4).
To shorten:
Move the armhole section inward, lapping the amount
you need. The clipped seam allowance will spread (Fig. 5).
To complete either alteration:
1. Tape the pattern in place.
2. Redraw the shoulder cutting and seamlines by con-
necting the points where the cutting lines cross and
the seamlines cross (Fig. 6).
Kimono Style Garments
Wide or broad shoulders will cause the sleeve to bind.
To accommodate the width you need, the sleeve might ride
inward. This causes extra vertical folds of fabric at the shoul-
der. The curve of the shoulder seam is too short for the shape
of the body. Consequently, the sleeve might appear too short
and hang poorly (Fig. 7).
Narrow shoulders will cause bagginess in the upper
sleeve. The curve of the shoulder seam is too long for the
shape of the body, so the sleeve might appear too long and
hang poorly (Fig. 8). Follow these steps:
1. Draw a diagonal line from the mark at the shoulder
seamline that indicates the end of the shoulder to the
highest part of the underarm seamline. If the end of
the shoulder is not marked on the pattern, fnd this
point by measuring from the base of the neck along
the shoulder seamline. Pin the dart closed.
2. Slash this line beginning at the shoulder cutting line
to, but not through, the underarm seamline. Clip the
underarm seam allowance at that point (Fig. 9).
To lengthen:
Place tissue paper under the pattern and spread the sleeve
section by the amount you need. The clipped seam allowance
will lap (Fig.10).
Figure 3.
2
(
5
.1
c
m
)
Bodice
front
Figure 4.
Spread
Bodice
front
Figure 5.
Lap
Bodice
front
Figure 6.
Cut away
Bodice
front
Bodice
front
Figure 7.
Figure 8.
Figure 9.
Figure 10.
Spread
Bodice
back
Bodice
back
................................................................................................................................................................................ 3
To shorten:
Move the sleeve section in, lapping the amount you need.
The clipped seam allowance will spread (Fig.11).
1. Tape the pattern in place.
2. Redraw the shoulder cutting and seamlines to form
smooth lines to the original shape. Use a middle point
between the break in the shoulder cutting and seam-
lines as a guide to redraw the lines. You might need
to make a slight adjustment in sewing the seamline
(Fig.12).
Raglan Style Garments
Fitting problems with broad or narrow shoulders will
look similar to kimono style garments. Follow these steps:
1. On the sleeve pattern, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) from
the base of the neck at the seamline along the shoul-
der seam. You measure in 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the
end of the shoulder if the shoulder point is marked on
the pattern (Fig. 13a). For patterns with a top shoulder
dart, mark a point midway along the length of the
dart. Draw a horizontal line across the pattern at this
point (Fig. 13b).
2. Match notches to align the sleeve and bodice seam-
lines. Mark the point on the bodice seamline where
the horizontal line on the sleeve crosses.
3. From this point, draw a vertical line on the bodice
that is parallel to the lengthwise grainline and is the
length of the armhole. Connect this vertical line to the
underarm seamline with a horizontal line, clipping
the underarm seam allowance at that point (Fig.14).
To lengthen:
1. Cut the sleeve apart along the horizontal line.
2. Place tissue paper under the sleeve and spread the
pattern by the amount you need. Keep the cut edges
parallel (Fig.15).
Figure 12.
Bodice
back
Figure 11.
Bodice
back
Lap
Bodice
back
Bodice
back
Cut away
Cut away
Figure 13b.
Figure 13a.
3 (7.6 cm) from neck
2 (5.1 cm) from shoulder
Sleeve
Sleeve
Figure 14.
Figure 15.
Sleeve
Sleeve
Spread
Spread
3
2
4 .................................................................................................................................................................................
Becky Saunders wrote the original manuscript for this publication.
3. Place tissue paper under the bodice. Move the arm-
hole section out at the seamline by the amount you
need. The clipped underarm seam allowance will lap
(Fig. 16).
To shorten:
1. Fold the sleeve along the horizontal line, forming a
tuck to decrease the amount you need (Fig.17).
2. On the bodice, move the underarm section in, lapping
the amount you need at the seamline. The clipped
underarm seam allowance will spread (Fig.18).
Redraw the cutting and seamlines on the sleeve and bod-
ice sections (Fig. 19).
Figure 17.
Sleeve Sleeve
Lap
Lap
Figure 18.
Lap
Bodice
back
Figure 16.
Bodice
back
Spread
Figure 19.
Bodice
back
Bodice
back
Sleeve
Sleeve
Sleeve
Sleeve
Cut away
Cut away Cut away Cut away
Cut away
Cut away Cut away
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and
June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Zerle L. Carpenter, Director, Texas Cooperative Extension, The
Texas A&M University System.
Educational programs of the Texas AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex,
disability, religion, age, or national origin.
Produced by AgriLife Communications and Marketing, The Texas A&M University System
Extension publications can be found on the Web at: http://AgriLifeBookstore.org.
Visit Texas AgriLife Extension Service at http://AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu.

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