UNIT IV: Garment Designing through Flat pattern techniques

Designing through flat pattern techniques: dart manipulation through pivot and slash spread methods to
make single dart series, double dart series, parallel darts. Adaptation of basic blocks for upper and lower
garments for designing of various garments and developments of paper patterns. Style variations of dart
manipulation – pleats, tucks, gathers, dart clusters, radiating darts, terminating darts. Introduction to
pattern making softwares used in the industry.

Q.1. .................. a wedge - shape cut-out in a pattern used as a means of controlling the fit of the garment
a) Ease b) Garment balance c) Tracing d) Dart

ANS: d) Dart

Q. 2. The direction in which the yarn is passing in the fabric.

a) Fibre b) Grain c) Length wise d) Cross wise

ANS: b) Grain

Q3. Yarns parallel to selvedge and at right angler to the cross grain of woven fabric is called .......................
a) Cross Grain b) Balance live c) Bias (45’) d) Length Grain

ANS: d) Length Grain

Q4. Finding and adjusting the difference between joining pattern parts to improve the hang and fit of the garment is
called ...............
a) Garment balance b) Bicep line c) Pattern balance d) Grain

ANS: c) Pattern Balance

Q5.. ................... is the process of matching two components to establish, grain line, scan length and pattern is introduced
a) Garment balance b) Pattern balance c) Fabric balance d) Grain

ANS: a) Garment Balance

Q6. A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the weave of the cloth is called ...................
a) Selvedge b) Bias c) Bowing d) Muslin

ANS: b) Bias

Q7. ................... is a line drawn on each pattern piece to indicate low the pattern should the aligned with the length grain of
the fabric
a) True bias b) Thick line c) Pattern grain line d) Arrows

ANS: c) Pattern Grain Line

Q8. ................... at the top or the bottom indicates that the pattern must be placed in one direction only
a) Vertical b) Cross - wise c) Grain line with arrows d) Horizontal

ANS: c) Grain Line with arrows

Q9. What is DART?

“Darts are folds and are sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a
garment.”

Darts are wedge shapes in a pattern that are used to control fullness and to shape a garment to your
body. On a bodice, for example, darts serve to shape the fabric around the curves of the bust. Bust
darts are most commonly placed at the side of the bodice, and also at the waist. But, the possibilities
are endless. You can move them to any location on the pattern. Various common terms related to
DARTS are as follows:

Dart A wedged shaped cut out in a pattern piece used to create shape and control the fit of a garment.
Dart Leg Two lines that come together at a predetermined point on a pattern.
Dart Intake The amount of fabric excess that sits between dart legs.
Pattern Manipulation is when you either slash and spread/close or pivot a pattern piece to alter it
from it’s original shape. Often times, a well fitting simple sloper is used when applying either of these
techniques.
Pivot Point is a designated point on a pattern, often the bust point, where the pattern is pivoted from.
This allows the pattern piece to change shape, but does not alter the fit.
Bust Point The pivot point (see above) on a front bodice block where the bust is noted and the pattern
is manipulated from.

Additional notes on darts:

  Always fold vertical darts towards the center front or center back of the garment. In
other words, the folded value of the dart’s fabric excess points towards the center front
or center back.
 Always fold horizontal darts so that the folded dart value is below the line of the dart
seam, or towards the hem of the garment.

 When planning dart for adding interesting design details, make sure that the dart
value is not going to cause bulk in areas of the garment by intersecting with other bulky
seams or at difficult angles.

Different types of darts are as follows:

Q10. What are DART MANIPULATION?

Basically, dart manipulation means to move darts around the pattern block or sloper where ever you
want them. This is done for both fit or design preference.
Dart manipulation in flat pattern making allows you to move a dart from its original location to a new
location. Moving a dart position is done by designating a pivot point and shifting the dart excess
(space between dart legs) to a new location. This can be useful in order to get a better or more
attractive fit as well as allowing you to create an entirely new style adding heaps variety to your
handmade wardrobe!

Usually, darts are a feature on woven garments to make them fit the three dimensional form (the
body)…but, they can also be used on knit patterns that are drafted with the intention to be sewn with a
very stable knit fabric.

How to manipulate Darts

Creating a new style typically starts by moving or converting standard bust and waist dart
location. The process is surprisingly easy to do, Darts can be moved from the standard side
seam position to the neckline, shoulder line or armhole.

Another example of dart manipulation is the princess seam. The princess seam is a sleeker

version of a fitted bodice, with the 2 parallel lines offering both fit and styling variations.
Variations on this seam can be created, too, shaping from the armhole instead of the
shoulder.
IMPORTANT  When a dart is relocated from a designated pivot point, the fit is not changed
in the relocation process. However, it’s always the best practice to check fit every time you
alter a simple sloper by sewing a fit muslin.

The dart excess can be used to create a wide variety of other design features such as,
tucks, gathers, pleats, and even cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always
present somewhere in the pattern. The dart or its equivalent will always radiate from the
pivot point.

Dart manipulation is the art of taking the existing darts in a sewing pattern, and manipulating them
around the pattern to achieve something else. It’s a common technique used in pattern making

The manipulation of darts is most fun and creative around the women’s bust area.

We often go for a tailored look, with well fitted garments, or sometimes rather fun and playful styles
with cool style-lines or added fullness created by dart manipulation.

What Is Added Fullness?

Added fullness is the result of manipulating darts to allow more fabric in an area of the sewing
pattern, which results in more fullness.

A simple way to visualise it would be to think of a trapeze dress, which flares out with additional
fullness.

This is done using dart manipulation.

Types Of Dart Manipulation?

When it comes to manipulating darts there are two methods that are used:
1. Slash and spread method
2. Pivotal method
What Is The Slash and Spread Method In Pattern Making?

The slash and spread method in pattern making is exactly as it sounds.

Your pattern is cut (slashed) to the dart point, and then spread open the required
amount to add fullness, or moved closer together to remove the fullness.

What Is Pivot Method?

The pivot method of dart manipulation is when we move the pattern at the dart
point, and trace around the pattern to remove or add fullness, instead of cutting into
the pattern itself.
Slash And Spread Vs Pivot Method

Typically, any one new to pattern drafting and experimenting with dart manipulation
would start by using the slash and spread method in pattern making.
It is an easier – though longer – process that works well and allows less room for
error, as you are working directly with the existing pattern pieces.

Pivoting a pattern is a more advanced pattern drafting technique as there is more room
for error.

Which Dart Manipulation Technique Should one use?

If you’re new to dart manipulation, try the slash and spread first.

Types Of Darts In Sewing

There are only two types of darts in sewing:

1. Single darts
2. Double ended darts – also know as fisheye darts
Single Darts

Single darts are the ones which have one point, and two dart legs, forming a triangle
of sorts.

These are found all over the bodice blocks, on the sleeve, trousers and skirts too.
There isn’t anywhere that you cannot put a dart, depending on what the final effect is
that you are aiming for.

Double Darts or Fish Eye Darts

Double darts are also known as fisheye darts.

They have two end points, two wider points, and then legs that connect all points
together. When seen un-sewn, they look like a fisheye.

The fish-eye dart is the dart you find on the front and back sections of a fitted dress
pattern, running from the bust, down towards the hip, to suppress the fabric for a
closer fitting dress.

What Are The Different Dart Styles?

There are 10 styles of dart on the basic front bodice. These are fixed locations that we
would transfer a dart from and to:

1. Standard waist dart

2. French dart
3. Armhole dart
4. Mid shoulder dart
 5. Centre front bust dart
6. Centre front neck dart
7. Straight side seam dart
8. Shoulder tip dart
9. Mid neck dart
10. Centre front waist dart
Standard Waist Dart Position

The standard waist dart is a vertical dart from the waistline up to the bust point.

It is one of the key darts used for manipulating fabric around the bodice.

The standard waist dart can be divided into two or three darts and sewn as darts,
external pleats or tucks, for some style variations – we’ll cover that in a later tutorial!
French Dart Position

The French dart is a diagonal dart from the side seam up to the bust point.

It is created by transferring the excess in the waist dart into a dart at the lower side
seam – usually 2-3 inches up from the waistline.

The French dart is often found on silk tops for a more ‘finished’ look.

Armhole Dart Position

The armhole dart is a diagonal dart from the mid armhole down towards the bust
point.

This is quite a popular dart, used to shape tops and blouses around the bust that then
fall straight down or into a flared hem.

Mid-Shoulder Dart Position

The mid-shoulder runs from the middle of your shoulder, down to the bust point.

You’ll often find this dart is drafted in when drafting a female bodice block.
Outside of drafting blocks, this dart is often incorporating into a princess style dress!

Centre Front Bust Dart Position

The centre front bust dart is a horizontal dart from the centre front towards the bust
point.

If the pattern is cut on the fold, this dart becomes a fish-eye dart, running horizontally.

This dart is often manipulated to create a little gathering on the centre front rather than
an actual dart.

It can also be used to create a bib or yoke effect on tops and dresses.

Centre Front Neck Dart Position

The centre front neck dart is a diagonal dart from the centre front down to the bust
point.

It is often used as part of a style-line to suppress the fabric in an interesting way.

Straight Side Seam Dart Position

A straight side seam is a horizontal dart from the side seam towards the bust point –
the least used dart by me when I’m working on dart manipulation!

I also see it very rarely in current fashion, so might be one to steer clear of!

Shoulder Tip Dart Position

The shoulder tip dart is a more dramatic diagonal dart from the shoulder tip, running
in and down, to the bust point.

Using a dart int his position is tricky, because you do end up with a very thin section
of the bodice pattern next to the shoulder.

that said, if you were planning a bodice with the sleeve factored in – a kimono top or
batwing top! – then the shoulder tip dart will work very well!

Mid-Neck Dart Position

A mid-neck dart – from the middle of the neck down to the bust point – is often used
to open up the neckline and add fullness in the form of gathers around the neckline.

It can also be used to create front yokes and bibs on blouses or shirts.

Centre Front Waist Dart Position

The centre front waist dart is manipulated from the centre waist to run diagonally from
the waistline at centre front, up to the bust point.
You can see from the various overview images above that in the examples, the dart is
drawn as a straight line on the bodice outline.

As an actual dart however, the dart legs can be drawn straight or curved, depending on
how much contouring is needed – we’ll cover contoured darts later on in this series.
What is Dart in Clothing?

Darts are a dressmaker’s punctuation marks. It is an essential part of garment construction.

Darts are folds and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially
for a woman’s bust. Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit the body and thus provide comfort
to the wearer. They provide fullness to natural body curves. Darts are very rarely used for
decorative purposes like providing a design line. The fitting, marking, stitching and pressing
of darts should be done accurately. In this article I will discuss details on dart manipulation
techniques for flat patterns.

To create new designs for garments, it is specially used for ladies garments. It save fabric
wastage and also use to remove excess fabric. Darts are needed to turn two-dimensional
shapes into three-dimensional shapes and to fit clothes closely to the body.
 Fig:
Darts in flat patterns (Image courtesy: inthemoodforcouture.com)

Application of Dart Manipulation – Introduction to design

patterns
The technique is applied when the dart of working patterns (bodice, skirt, sleeve, or any
working pattern) are relocated in the process of creating design patterns. To create a design
pattern, the design is analyzed first to identify the location of the dart or equivalent before
manipulating the pattern.

The following design projects illustrate the beginning of pattern manipulation, and each
process should be completed in the order given because each will help to prepare the pattern
maker or designer for more advanced work. Both artistic and technical skills are required to
successfully create design patterns.

Different Darts Locations:

Darts can be located in a number of different places on a bodice to alter its style.
Fig-2: Different dart locations

Completing the Dart:

The dart can be finished one of two ways:

1. Trim dart excess to within 1/2 inch of the seam line before stitching the dart.

2. Fold the dart excess under and stitch on the seam line.
Dart Manipulation Techniques:

Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern
drafting. Fashion designer must identify the location of the dart before manipulating the pattern
and how manipulate the dart. Dart manipulation mainly starts with a basic sloper, which they then
convert into their stylish designs. Darts become princess seams, gathers, tucks or cowls. New styles
lines are added or moved, necklines are reshaped.

There are three dart manipulation techniques in flat patterns. These are suitable for manipulate dart
to any location. The slash and spread or pivot method mostly use to transfer darts to the bust, neck,
armhole or anywhere you want!

1. Pin and pivotal dart transfer technique.

2. Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique
3. Dart equivalent technique

1. Pin and Pivotal dart rotation technique:

Pattern designers use pivoting methods to make fashion changes. They move darts or add
fullness by anchoring the basic pattern with a pin and moving the pattern in, out, and around.
The pattern swings back and forth like the pendulum on a grandfather clock. Use this pivoting
motion to change the pattern width.
Fig-3: Pin and pivotal dart transfer technique

In this method does not require the working be slashed in order to change its original shape into
design pattern. It is a transfer method and with experience, it is preferred.

2. Slash-spread dart rotation and overlap technique:

Pattern graders use the slide motion to change pattern sizes. They slide patterns up, down, and to the
side to gradually increase or decrease from one size to the next. Use this sliding motion to add or
subtract length.
 F
ig-4: Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique

Pivot and slide techniques combine these two motions to fit a pattern simply, yet accurately. You make
all of the changes on a worksheet (pattern paper or tissue paper), keeping the original pattern intact—
no more cutting and taping! By changing the pattern equally on both sides of the grain, the seam and
the design lines are kept in proportion to the original pattern. Best of all, each change is easy.

3. Dart equivalents technique:

Pleats or gathers in the fabric can be used as for the same purpose as a normal stitched dart. These are
called dart equivalents. Darts can also be worked into style lines. The dart excess can be used to create
a wide variety of other design features such as, style lines, multiple, tucks, gathers, pleats, flare and
even cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always present somewhere in the pattern. The dart
or its equivalent will always radiate from the pivot point.

Fig-5: Dart equivalents technique

Different Types of Darts:
The different types of darts are discussed below:

1. Straight dart
2. Curved outward dart
3. Curved inward dart
4. Neckline dart
5. Double pointed dart
6. Dart in interfacing

1. Straight dart: 
It is a straight line of stitching from the point to the seam line (Fig-6). This can be noticed in the
underarm of the front bodice, back skirt, shoulder, elbow and back neckline.

Fig-6: Straight dart

2. Curved outward dart:

The stitch line curves outward along the path from the point to the seam line (Fig-7). This gives a
snugger fit to the garment. This is sometimes used on a bodice front to make a mid-body fit snug.

Fig
-7: Curved outward dart

3. Curved inward dart:

The stitch line curves inward from the point to the seam line. This facilitates a better fit along the body
curve (Fig-8). It is frequently used in pant and skirt fronts.
 F
ig-8: Curved inward dart

4. Neckline dart:
This is usually a solid line marking on the back neckline indicating a straight dart of 1/8″ (Fig-9).

Fig-9: Neckline dart

5. Double pointed dart:

This dart is unique as it tapers in a straight line from the middle to both the ends (Fig-10) and is
clipped at the widest part. It is usually made from the waistline (widest point). It finds application in
princess and A-line dresses, over blouses and jackets.

Fig-10: Double pointed dart

6. Dart in interfacing:
In this case, a slash is made on the fold line. Then the cut ends are lapped along the line of stitching
and zigzagged to keep in place (Fig-11).

Fig-11: Dart in interfacing

Basic Dart Manipulation Process:

The diagram above shows different dart locations. You can practice these dart manipulations as an
exercise using either full size or half-scale blocks. By moving these darts around the bust point, you
will begin to understand the method.

Fig-12: Women’s shirt with dart

Follow the step-by-step basic dart manipulation exercise below:

The basic bodice has two darts. Start by consolidating the two darts into one side seam dart.

1. Trace off the front bodice; here the bodice block is made from card, making tracing easier and more
accurate.
Fig-13: Basic dart step-1

2. Cut up the front waist dart and the side seam dart.

Fig-14: Basic dart step-2

3. Close the waist dart, and the side seam dart opens. (Remember not to cut right through; keep a
small amount of paper attached to act as a hinge.)
Fig-15: Basic dart step-3

To continue this exercise, trace off the front bodice block onto paper. Draw in the lines to the bust
point as shown on the diagram. To manipulate the darts, simply slash to the apex each time and then
close and open the darts in different locations.

Asymmetric Darts Manipulation:

Asymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of
the working Pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all
designs that differ  from side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to
complete the design for test fit.

 A full front pattern is required.

 Right-side-up instructions are necessary.
 The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart. If
so, the dart should be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole) before
the pattern is plotted.

Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4
inch at neck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).

Types of Asymmetric Darts:

Basic asymmetric darts are applied on design pattern. To get different style on pattern, Asymmetric
darts are changes in various ways. Mainly two types of dart variations are common. These are in below

1. Asymmetric radiating darts

Fig-16: Asymmetric Radiating Darts

2. Asymmetric curved darts

Fig-17: Asymmetric Curved Darts

The step-by-step basic Asymmetric dart manipulation exercise in below:

Fig-18: Asymmetric darts

1. To create asymmetric darts, trace off the bodice block fronts, joining the right and left sides at the
CF(center front). The full bodice is traced off because the right and left sides are to be different.

Fig-19: Asymmetric darts step-1

2. Cut up both waist and side darts to the apexes. Close the bust dart until its edges meet. The waist
darts will open.
Fig-20: Asymmetric darts step-2

3. Draw in the new dart lines.

Fig-21: Asymmetric darts step-3

4. First cut along the long line that passes from left to right.
Fig-22: Asymmetric darts step-4

5. Close the right-hand waist dart, and the long dart opens.

Fig-23: Asymmetric darts step-5

6. Cut up the shorter dart and close the left-hand waist dart. The short dart opens.
Fig-24: Asymmetric darts step-6

7. The pattern development is complete. Trace in new darts and back away from the apex by 4cm
(11⁄2in). This is now your pattern plan. Trace this off onto a clean sheet of pattern tracing paper. Now
you can add your seam allowance, notches and grain lines.

Fig-25: Asymmetric darts step-7

Changing Darts into Gathers:

Fig-26: Changing Asymmetric dart into Gather dart

Measure the right-hand dart from A to B. Including the dart, the measurement will be longer from A
to C; gather the excess fullness between the notches to match the shorter side as shown.

Fig-27: Gather dart

This style has gathering located under the bust instead of the dart. First, repeat the first six steps from
‘Asymmetric darts’, above.

Intersecting Darts:
Intersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts and dart equivalents. The darts cross center front and
intersect with each other. To complete the design, use basic back pattern.

Types of Intersecting Darts:

Two common intersecting dart designs are practice in dress pattern. But variations are also available
when the generated patterns are correct if they result in exact representations of the designs.
1. Intersecting dart to waist

Fig-28: Intersecting Dart to Waist

2. Intersecting dart with gathers

Fig-29: Intersecting Dart with Gathers

References:

1. Pattern Fitting with Confidence by Nancy Zieman

2. Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Fifth Edition by Helen Joseph-Armstrong
3. Pattern Cutting and Making UP-The Professional Approach by Martin Shoben and Janet
Ward
4. Apparel Manufacturing Technology by T. Karthik, P. Ganesan, D. Gopalakrishnan
5. http://blog.elewa.co.uk/dart-manipulation-part-1/
6. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern
7. http://en.inthemoodforcouture.com/263/