Building Small

Greenhouses
Many home gardeners find a small greenhouse a
relaxi:tg hobby as well as very useful. It can be
used to root cuttings andsminate seeds for the
outdoor garden, special flowers or ornamental5 can
be raised, and vegetables can be grown out of
season. A carefully chosen and attractive green-
house can provide many hours of enjoyment. How-
ever, before building one, be sure to consider:
e location
e type of construction
e heating and ventilating
e maintenance
LOCATION
A sunny location is best. Locate the house as far
from trees as practical. A southern or southeastern
exposure is best for maximum light during the
winter.
The greenhouse should be convenient to water,
fuel for heating, and electricity. The area should
be well drained.
TYPES OF GREENHOUSES
Almost everyone can find a greenhouse style to
suit his needs. There is a bewildering variety of
sizes, shapes, and styles. Greenhouses range from
window-box size to 20 or 30 feet wide and 100 or
inore feet long. The size you choose depends on
the area available, how much greenhouse garden-
ing you wish to do, and the cost.
Gothic arch, rigid frame, air supported, shed roof,
and conventional pitched roof are just a few of
the available shapes. A greenhouse that fits both
existing landscape and personal preference dic-
tates the choice. Greenhouses are made with
glass, fiberglass, polyethylene, or vinyl cov-
erings. Wood, steel, and aluminum are used for
framing.
Glass
Glass houses are very attractive, permanent, and
expensive. These houses should be built by a
greenhouse manufacturer or purchased in a ready-
to-assemble package because they are difficult
to construct. Any gardening magazine advertises
companies selling these houses.
Fiberglass
Houses covered with fiberglass are durable, at-
tractive, and moderately priced. They are com-
mercially available or can be designed and built
by the home handyman. Only transpurent or trans-
lucent fiberglass weighing 4 to 5 ounces per
square foot should be used. Most manufacturers
sell a fiberglass made for greenhouses and it
should be guaranteed for 10 to 20 years. Except
for shading, lower grades and colored panels
should be avoided.
Film Plastic
Film-plastic-covered greenhouses are inexpensive
and temporary. They are less attractive and require
more maintenance than other styles. Clear poly-
ethylene, 4 or 6 mils (0.004 to 0.006 inch) thick,
is most commonly used because it is inexpensive
and readily available. Unfortunately polyethylene
only lasts from 3 to 8 months because it is rapidly
broken down by ultraviolet radiation from the sun.
Polyethylene treated with an ultraviolet (UV) in-
hibitor is slightly more expensive but will last 3
to 6 months longer than the regular polyethylene.
This film should be used if the greenhouse is to
be covered in the summer or fall.
Longer lasting film plastics are available, but
they have other disadvantages besides being more
expensive. If more permanence is desired, the
house can be covered with fiberglass. Polyethyl-
ene film costs 2 to 3 cents per square foot, fiber-
glass, 40 to 60 cents per square foot.
1
GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION HEATING
Types of Heaters
Th e greenhouse must be heated for winter use.
Mony types of heating systems are available.
Use seasoned, construction-grade lumber when
building the greenhouses described here. Redwood
or Douglas-fir is best.
Paint the framework with a white exterior paint to
improve appearance and reflect more light.
Posts and wood that touch the ground should be
treated with copper naphthenate preservative. Do
not use creosote and pentachorophenol preserva-
tives because they releasevapors harmful to plants.
Polyethylene film should be installed on calm
days. Film plastic first tears at the places where
it touches the greenhouse frame or where it is
folded. Wide,unfolded sheets of plastic are avail-
able anr! should be used. A batten strip at least
as wide as the rafter will help extend film life.
Double headed nails are often used to fasten the
plastic since they are easier to remove.
Two layers of plastic can be installed to reduce
heat loss as much as 40 percent and eliminate
condensation on the p!astic. An inside layer of
plastic 2 to 4 mils thick is spaced 1 to 4 inches
from the outside layer to create a dead airspace.
Closer or wider spacing does not create an effec-
tive dead airspace.
Although two layers are difficult to install, they
are well worth the trouble. Typically, both layers
can be installed on the outside of the framework
with a 2x2 spacer placed between the lrlyers
where they are fastened to the rafters. One sheet
is held by the 2x2 nailed just to hold it in place.
The second sheet can then be held with the batten
strip and nails driven through the 2 x2 and an inch
or more into the rafter.
In small greenhouses, the inner layer of plastic
can be fastened to the inside framework with
staples driven over a string. Simply pulling the
string removes the staples.
Home Heating Systems. If a home heaters ca-
pacity is adequate, it can be extended to a small
nearby greenhouse. However, the heat demand is
dffforent than that of the home so a separate ther-
mostat and control system are required. A heating
contractor normallywill be needed for installation.
Space-Heaters. Either electric, gas, or oil space-
heaters nre often used to heat small greenhouses.
Heated air is circulated by a fan in the heater.
Some space-heaters have no fan and so are rather
uneven and ineffective. Depending on the size of
unit, space-heaters should not be more than 10 to
30 feet apart to produce uniform heating.
Oil or gas heaters must be vented to the outside
since the products of combustion are toxic to
plants. Electric he t a ers are easier to install and
are convenient but cost more to operate than gas
heaters.
Space-Heaters With Ducts. Recently a heating
system has been devised to distribute heat more
uniformly through the greenhouse. A space-heater
with a fan built for moving air in ducts is attached
to a clear polyethylene tube (diameter, 12 to 24)
hung overhead. The tube has 2- to 3-inch holes
punched along it every 2 or 3 feet. Warmed air is
biown into the tube and out the small holes to pro-
vide uniform heating. When no heat is needed, the
furnace can be shut off and the fan left on to ven-
ti late the greenhouse. The fan-heater unit is lo-
cated near the end of the greenhouse so outside
airwill be drawn througha door oropening into the
fan and tube to be blown throughout the greenhouse.
Usually this equipment is not needed for small
greenhouses because space-heaters alone are
satisfactory and less expensive. Normally, green-
houses are at least 15 to 20 feet wide and 50 to
100 feet long before this equipment is used.
2
TABLE OF HEAT REQUIREMENTS FOR GREENHOUSES
I
(13.t.u. s of Heat Required per Hour per Square Foot of Exposed Surface)
1
55
60
65
1
70
35
18
24
30
36
42
Lowest Exoected Outside Tern oe
30 25 20
ra tu re
10 0
24 30 36 48 60
30 36 42 54 66
36 42 48 60 72
42 48 54 66 78
48 54 60 72 a4
Forced-Air Furnaces. Home forced-air furnaces
wind,quality or tightness of construction, nearness
and ducts are also used to heat larger houses. to heated buildings, height of sidewalls, etc. For
Clear polyethylene tubes, such as used with the
most construction, each square foot of surface
space-heaters and ducts, can be attached to the
loses 1.2 B.t.u.s of heat per hour for each degree
furnace and hung overhead for distributing the
heat. Again, these furnaces must be vented.
of temperature difference. The table of heat re-
quirements helps in calculating the heat load.
Amount of Heat
The amount of heat required for a greenhouse de-
pends on the size, minimum outside temperature,
minimum temperature required inside, amount of
1
An example of how the heat requirement is calcu-
lated is given in figure 1. In this case a lo- by
12-foot greenhouse needs to be heated 40 degrees
above the outside minimum temperature.
Minimum desired
inside temperature 65 F.
Minimum outside
n
temperature 2!5- F. temperature 2!5- F.
t t
6' 6'
I I
-I.- -I.-
= 144 sq ft = 144 sq ft
= 132 sq ft = 132 sq ft
Ends Ends 2(10x6)+ (2%x10) q 142 sqft 2(10x6)+ (2%x10) q 142 sqft
Total surface area Total surface area = 418 sq ft = 418 sq ft
From the table - 48 B.t.u.ihr/sq it heat is required or
48x 418 = 20,000 B.t.u/hr is the total heat required.
FIGURE 1. How to calculate heat requirement.
3
Gas or oil heaters are frequently rated according
to the total heat input. Some heat escapes through
in:; vent so the usable heat is only about 70 per-
cent of this total. If a gas heater were used in ,the
greenhouse shown in the example, it should have
a heat input rating of about
20,000
p = 28,600 B.t.u./hr
0.70
If two layers of plastic are used, the heat loss is
about 70 percentof the loss through a single layer
of plastic. If the house in the example is built
with a double layer of plastic, the heat require-
ment would then be 20,000 x0.70 = 14,000 B.t.u./
hr. Of course, if a gas heater were used with the
double plastic, its heat input would be
14,000
0.70
= 20,000 B.t.u./hr
Maintenance and Safety
Choose heaters having o safety switch or safety
pi lot. Be sure gas heaters are vented.
Clean dust from the burners and ducts before
starting heating in the fall.
Check the flame to be sure it is burning with a
clear blue color. A yellow flame indicates in-
complete combustion and theflame setting should
be corrected.
Be sure the thermostot is protected from rain and
is operating.
For greater heater efficiency keep the greenhouse
doors closed and patch all holes.
VENTILATION AND COOLING
Greenhouses must have air movement for cooling.
In winter, air movement is needed to reduce ex-
cess humidity, condensation, and dripping of
moisture from the roof. Either greenhouse vents
or fons can be used.
Vents. A continuous vent at the top or ridge of
the greenhouse, combined with vents on the sides,
gives the most effective naturol ventilation. For
smal I greenhouses, a 1- to 2-foot wide vent i s
adequate. In larger greenhouses, a ridge vent
I,, the width of the house should be used. For
example, if a house is 24 feet wide, at least a
3-foot-wide (,x 24) ridge vent should be used.
Side vents are often not used in houses less than
15 feet long, since an open door or o few holes
at each end allows enough air to enter on hot
days. For very small houses, like those on plans
5941 and 5946, smaller ridge vents, open doors,
or end vents provide enough ventilation.
Ridge vents should be opened slightly in cold
weather to allow some moisture-laden air to
escape. With noventilation, humidity in the green-
house becomes too high and condensation, drip,
and dicey?e become severe problems.
Circulating Fans. Sometimes small fans are used
to circulate air within the greenhouse to try to
eliminote stagnant air pockets. Thesefans should
only be used to correct a poorly designed heating
and ventilating system. In small greenhouses end
in greenhouses with good heating and ventilation
systems, they are not of much use.
Cooling Fans. More positive air control is needed
if the greenhouse is used in the summer. Fans
will ventilate even on a calm, hot, summer day.
Also, fans are easier to control automatically than
vents. However, fans are more expensive and not
normally used except in large houses. The fan
exhausts the air from the house, and during warm
weather it should change the air once every
minute.
Cooling Pads. In large houses, a wetted aspen-
fiber pad can be placed at one end and fans at the
other to provide additional cooling. As the air is
drawn through the wet pad it is cooled by evapo-
ration-as much as 30 degrees on hot days. If
additional cooling is needed in small greenhouses,
a package evaporative cooler is more satisfactory.
The cooler can be mounted to blow cool air into
the house at one end and the door opened on the
opposite end to exhaust the air. Coolers should
change the air once per minute. The volume of
of the house shown in the heating example is 855
cubic feet -the amount of air a cooler for this
house would need to deliver per minute.
4
Shading. Shades, of course, besides reducing
light, reduce the heat load in greenhouses. Shad-
ing compounds that are sprayed or painted on the
greenhouse and aluminum, fibergiass, plastic, or
wooden screens and panels are avai lable. Partial
shading does not normally reduce summer light
enough to reduce growth, but it is a good way to
reduce the heat load.
Humidification. During hot days the humidity in
a greenhouse can become so low that plants are
severely dehydrated and even ruined. Moreover,
some tropical foticge plants and orchids grow
best in high humidities. The least expensive way
to increase humidity is to freque+!i water the
gravel under benches and in lhrclkways. Water
nozzles that periodically s #ray a fine mist are
also very effective humidifers. The nozzles can
be automatedwith a tirnmrr3ck and electric valve.
A time cycle of 1 minute on and 5 to 10 minutes
off is common. Commercial greenhouse humidifier
units can also be used.
Automation
Watering, heating, cooling, fertilizing and humid-
ifying can all be done au~maticaIly. Only the
budget limits how many chores are automated.
Some people prefer to control all of these opera-
tions themselves, considering this part of the en-
joyment of the greenhouse. However, some iobs
are better handled by automatic controls. Heaters
should be controlled by a thermostat. Vents or
fans can also be thermostatically controlled, but
this is not as necessary. Other automotion is
nice to have but the heating and ventilation sys-
tem should be automated first.
I 2 I 7 - 0 RIDGE7 STEEL CORNER STRAP 7
UNDERSIDE OF R
-- ------
EL CORNER STRAq
BATTEN STRI
m FOLD PLASTIC OVER AND
STEN TO INNER SIDE o
RNER STUDS AN0 RAFT
BATTEN STRIPS
ARCH FRAME
Ix.BBASE FRAME -
2~; STUDS
NOTCHED 3/4
BASE FRAME
iiSCREW HOOKS / i
ENQ VIEW
CUT AWAY
?r 2 RAFTER
CONDUIT STRAPS ON BASE
AND RIDGE. FASTEN WITH
5/g SHEET METAL SCREWS
It..
BASE FRAME --
/
TOP VIEW
CUTAWAY TO SHOW CONSTRUCTION
PERSPECTIVE VIEW
FRAMING ONLY
n,,F TO POSSIBLE VARIATIONS --- .- _-----
IN ANGLES WHEN THE CONDUIT IS
BENT FOR ARCH FRAMES. CHECK
THE HEIGHTS SHOWN USING AN
ARCH FRAME as A TEMPLATE.
ALL WOOD SHOULD BE TREATED
WITH PRESERVATIVE AFTER CUTTING
AND BEFORE ASSEMBLY.
METAL PARTS AND FASTENINGS
TO BE GALVANIZED OR OTHERWISE
RESISTANT TO CORROSION.
METAL PARTS TO BE FASTENED
WITH SCREWS.
WOOD PARTS MAY BE FASTENED
WITH SCREWS OR WITH NAILS.
CLINCHED WHERE POSSIBLE.
PLASTIC MAY BE FASTENED THRU
THE BATTEN STRIPS WITH NAILS.
SCREWS OR STAPLES.
MATERIAL LIST
_ -ITEM _____ QUANTITY
BASE FRAME--- _ -4 PtS
COLLARS-------I
RIDGE- _---- - -I n
RAFTERS ___ - - -4 :
STUDS (CENTER)- _ -2
(OTHER)-- - -4
CO;ER BATTENS _ - -4

u
ARCH FRAMES- - _ -3
CONDUIT STRAPS - _ -15
CORNER STRAPS- _ -ID
PLASTIC (ENDS) - -- 2 u
. ICOVERSI- - - 2 II
SIDE AND TOP COVER SUPPORTS
ARE 2x 4 INCH WELDED WIRE
MESH, HOOKED TOGETHER IN PAIRS
AND HINGED LOOSELY TO THE
RIDGE WITH STRONG CORD.
.--.- -_
COVER SUPPORTS- - - 2 q
---2 II
RATTEN STRlPS - _ - _- -- --62-0
-_.. _.. _ ____ _
SCREW ,,OOKS- _. _ - 8 _ _ ,_ - - - - - -_ .- -
FASTENINGS- - _ _ - - SEE NOTES - - -*- ; --
SOIL HEATING CABLE-- I - -36OW.--120-0
l-
+I
&
II 4 MIL CLEAR PLASTIC FILM
-- j
8 GA W.W. MESH
I WIRE: STOP -
2 1. 6 BASE FRAME
HAROWARE CLOTH
HEATING CABLES
SIDE VIEW
END VIEW
CUT AWAY
ALL WOOD SHOULD BE TREATED
WITH PRESERVATIVE AFTER SECTION
CUTTING AND BEFORE ASSEMBLY.
NOTE: SEPARATION OF HEATING CABLES
IS VARIABLE TO AMOUNT OF HEAT
NEEDED PER SO. FT. ACCORDING
TO GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION. REFER
T9 LEAFLET NO. 445 USDA.
METAL PARTS AND FASTENINGS
TO BE GALVANIZED OR OTHERWISE
RESISTANT TO CORROSION.
WOOD PARTS MAY BE FASTENED
WITH SCREWS OR WITH NAILS.
PLASTIC MAY BE FASTENED BY
CLOTHES PINS OR BY PLASTIC
-----j r:.,. STOP
/
II / Ii-- 2~ 8 BASE FRAME
8 GA. WELDED WIRE MESH
CABLES
TOP VIEW
CUT AWAY
z El
2 PCS.
I PC.
3 PCS.
2 PCS.
I PC.
2 PCS.
4 IN.
I PC.
PERSPECTIVE VIEQ
-
NOT TO SCALE
MATERIAL LIST
2% a- 5 LONG FOR SIDES
2~ 8- 3 - 6 LONG FOR ENDS
li I WIRE STOP- 5-2LONG FOR SIDES
NO.6 GAUGE 6x6 WELDED WIRE, 5 LONG
4- 6 WIDE FOR TOP OF WOOD FRAME TO
SUPPORT PLASTIC FILM.
PLASTlC WEBBING 2 WIDE - 5 LONG
PLASTIC FILM, 4 MIL. CLEAR 3WlOE
7 LONG.
360-WATT SOIL HEATING CABLE. THERMO-
STATICALLY CONTROLLED TO SHUT OFF
AT 70F.
WHITE PLASTIC FILM, 4 MIL, 5x6 FOR
COVERING FRAME DURING WINTER.
CHEESECLOTH, 3~ 7
SAND - 2ABOVE. 2 BELOW HEATING CABLE
L/2 HARDWARE CLOTH, 5~ 3 l/2
DESIGNED IN COOPERATION WITH :
CROPS RESEARCH DIVISION
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC
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COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
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SEE DETAIL A
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COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
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3SIMHlSN31 1113 133HS HI S
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slvltl31wIyy JO 1118
WVtlSVl~ 9Nllln3 133HS QOOMAld
aOOMAld 3-3 3dAl 1X3 ,,*/I
9 GAL
TIES,
VANIZED
TWISTED
-7 NO
,I WIRE ONE COLLAR
TIE, OVER
(THIN-WALL
FRAMING ELEVATIONS
FRAMING PLAN
5 MIL TYPE W-POLYESTER FILM
CEMENTED TO OUTSIDE OF PANEL
ROOF PANELS SLIOE
DOWN FOR REMOVAL
OR VENTILATION
AT RIDGE
IN-WALL CONDUIT IO
FLATTEN 6 EACH EN
% CARRIAGE BOLT WITH WASHER
5ht2 LAG SCREW
$
a,
3
2x4 POSTS
IX4 SASH STr ,1X3 AT CORNERS)
x!!
a+
Y
L
2X12x16-9 t/z
/eh Vak46 WI. NONCORROSIVE
METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH
I NO 6 NONCORROSIVE
WOOD SCRErYS
3 MIL FILM
CEMENTED
TO INSIDE OF
PANEL
DOUBLE-GLAZED
WALL PANEL WITH
LOOSE-PIN HINGES
TWO 3 NO. ID SCREWS
SECTION A-A
NOT TO SCALE
..-4:-o J
ROOF SASH PANEL
CROSS SECTION
_ RIDGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT
USE LONGER BOLT AND TWO F

TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE TI

FROM 1x4 COVER WITH AN
WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL
4-2 C C.3.
RooF PANEL (RAFTER NOT
2X4x16-9 l/z
PLATE
CAP
SHOWN)
6 GUTTER
SPIKE
1~4x16
vdk I l/e
AT EAC.. . v-1
kl2 F.B.
Y Drl2-r
IX4 STOP
3/1&l~/2il2 F.6. WITH ah DIA.
CARRIAGE BOLT 8 %kz LAG
SCREW TO EACH RAFTER
2X3 RAFTER END RAFTER
/ END WALL RIDGE DETAIL
PANEL
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC5
I , lr
EAVE CONNECTIONS
IX1 PANEL SUPPORTS WITH
14 BEVEL FOR GUTTER
4
RAFTER DETAILS
NOTE:
CONSULT LOCAL HEALTH AND
PLASTIC GREENHOUSE
JSDA 76
1 6251 1 SHEET I OF 2
BUILDING CODE AUTHORITIEG
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
F
SIDE
Vdi l/z METAL STRAP.
FLUSH WITH WOOD.
GABLE SASH
I
TWO REQD
o/ ~-GRADE
LINE
DOOR DETAIL C
DOWN AT EACH END
1x1 STRIP TO RETAIN
END WALL PANEL ONLY
WALL SASH PANEL
1x1 STRIP, FULL
EIGHT REOD
NOTES:
THE ROOF PANELS ARE
HELD IN CLOSED OR
PARTLY OPEN POSITIONS
BY 6d DOUBLE-HEADED
NAILS IN HOLES DRILLED
THROUGH LOWER END OF
bIM;\R CAP INTO PANEL
INSTALL RESILIENT
WEATHER STRIPPING TO
CLOSE THE SPACE
BETWEEN THE PLATES
AND ROOF PANELS.
ALL WOOD PARTS TO
BE TREATED, AFTER
CUTTING, WlTli A
COPPER-NAPTHENATE
PRESERVATIVE.
ALL METAL PARTS
* SHOULD BE OF NON-
CORROSIVE METAL OR
,,E;t!P GALVANIZED
2~4~13~3~
FILLER, WITH
r 4 I 3- IO TIE lfetlA METAL STRAP, FLUSH
WITH WOOD, EACH SIDE
2x2. BEVELED
~--214rlOO~
--22r2
-
la3 SASH STOP FOR
SIDE WALL PANEL
2x4113-3
DOOR STOP
DOOR PANEL
TWO REP0
APPLY FILM TO INSIDE FIRST OUTER FILM
SHALL EXTEND OVER TOP RAIL AN0 LAP
THE TOP EDGE OF THE INNER FILM
END WALL SASH PANEL
FOUR REQD. TWO
RIGHT 8 TWO LEFT
i 1
2x12 rl2-0 NOTCHEI
1 I
31h!t35 FOR DOOR
I I
BEVEL TOP EDGE FO
LJ
DRAINAGE
I
END WALL FRAMING
BGALYANIIED T-HINGE WITH BRASS PIN PIN
SHOULD GE REMOVABLE. INSET SO LEAVES ARE
FLUSH WITH THE SURFACE OF WOO0 MEMBERS FOR
EASE IN APPLYING OR REPLACING THE PLASTIC FILM
~le'iIVz'i8" GALV STEEL
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMIC
DOOR DETAIL Et SILL DETAIL A
6- 5 4 , * 0 12 9 6, 1 0
PLASTIC GREENHOUSE
USDA * 76 1 6251 1 SHEET 2 OF
7 NO 9 GALVANIZED
/- WIRE TIES, TWISTED
DOUBLE-GLAZED
WALL PANEL WITH
WITH WASHER %,
??I
2x4 POSTS
s-y
g-i
lx4 SASH STC ,1x3 AT CORNERS1
%w
d+
I
2xl2rl69 I/z
ROOF PANELS SLIDE
=+
DOWN FOR REMOVAL
-A
OR VENTILATION
AT RIDGE
\
LONG. FLATTEN 6EACH END
-i
A
t- --
(THIN-WALL
FRAMING PLAN
5 MIL TYPE W-POLYESTER FILM
CEMENTED TO OUTSIDE OF PANEL
mk 2 FRAME
\
I
/sk %k46vi NONCORROSIVE 3 MIL FILM
METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH CEMENTED
I NO. 6 NONCORROSIVE TO INSIDE OF
WOOD SCREJYS PANEL
TWO 3 NO. IO SCREWS
USE LONGER BOLT AND TW
TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE
4-2 I. 2.
---+ - - --
* - .-I I
ROOF SASH PANEL
IO 6 0 1 2
SECTION A-A
NOT TO SCALE
lx4rl69~/z RIDGE
CAP
~hk~v$kW F.B. WITH a/s DIA.
CARRIAGE BOLT 8 vmk 2 LAG
SCREW TO EACH RAFTER
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
I I /I I
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS ..-...---.-..- ..- -.--- ---- . ..-..- ---..- . ..__
_..^
MALL HlIJtit DETAIL
,e, I
NI,EDSTIIL*DEP*II,Y~~*~~~~~,~~~~=~,~~.,~~~
,,RlOGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT
FROM 1x4. COVER WITH AN
8 WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL
ROOF PANEL (RAFTER NOT SHOWN)
h
2 F.E
POST
EAVE CONNECTIONS
RAFTER DETAILS
NOTE:
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
5-3
LEG
4_ay
4
/ I van 2 VI2
-I--- A-
RAFTER
FRAME CUTTING LAYOUT (CUT FROM (8) 2x4~10)
f
=0
-0
P
i
&-i-J
I-
/
A A A A
A A A A
A
b-
;j \
A A A
_
A A A A
T I 7 1-
1,
B
k-b
L
/
\, B __.,
B 1
y .,
0
,-< ,/ +--yy
, /4 EXT TYPE C-C PLYWOOD
__-. -__--.- --
PLYWOOD SHEET CUTTING DIAGRAM
I2 6 0 I
I6 Vs
BILL OF MATERIALS
4
CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PANELS (FR PI l
5 OZ COATING:
ROOF PANELS (61 2ilO CUT IN HALF
SIDE PANELS (5) 2kl2: 2 SHEETS EACH SIDE
5 TH SHEET CUT LENGTHWISE
END PANELS (91 zke OF WHICH 5 ARE LOCATED
AT END WITH NO DOOR
RIDGE ROLL (I I 12 LENGTH
LUMBER
(8) 2r4rlO TO MAKE FRAMES
(2) 2x4~10 SILL AT ENDS (PT COPPER NAPHTHENATE)
(21 2x4~12 SILL AT SIDES (PT COPPER NAPHTHENATE)
(21 2~4x16 END FRAMING
BENCH SUPPORTS NOT INCLUDED
(8) 5/.r4xl2 FOR PURLINS 8 DOOR
(2) 4~4x16 PT POST FOR FOOTINGS
(21 1x12112 6 (21 lxl2rlO REDWOOD BOARDS
I I) 4rBr 14 EXTERIOR TYPE CC PLYWOOD SHEET FOR
PLYWOOD GUSSETS SEE CUTTING DIAGRAM
c CHECK WITH FIBERGLASS SUPPLIER FOR NECESSARY
RELATED HARDWARE .S COVERING INSTRUCTIONS
NAILS. HINGES B LATCH
SIDE GUSSETS
I6 REPD
HEAD GUSSETS
8 REQD
BLOWER A-i END WALL
FOR INFLATION OF
PLASTIC LAYERS.
SEE SECT. A-A DOUBLE LAYER 6 MILL PLASTIC
FLATED, IN
ASS PANELS.
OF PLASTIC WILL
TIMES. ONCE
4 YEARS.)
i i i r
I I 4 I
ALTERNATE CROSS SECTION
HOLE IN PLYWOOD SAME
SIZE AS BLOWER OPG
CIRCULAR SHEET METAL
PLATE TO ADJUST
OPENING INTO BLOWER. ---4
PLYWOOD SHEET SECURED TO /-,/
FRAME FOR MOUNTING OF BLOWER
AIR PASSAGE ADAPTER
(PLASTIC POT WITH HOLE
IN BOTTOM IS SUITABLE)
I! w
PLASTIC TUBING TAPED TO
BLOWER HOUSING B ADAPTER
BLOWER SECURED TO
PLYWOOD TO DRAW
IN OUTSIDE AIR
ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL
HEATING:
TO MAINTAIN A TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE OF 60
BETWEEN INSIDE a OUTSIDE
30,000 BTUlHR SINGLE COVERING
20,000 BTU/HR DOUBLE COVERING
CONNECTION TO HOME HEATING SYSTEM IS MOST
DESIRABLE. IF NOT POSSIBLE, USE GAS OR OIL
HEATER VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE. ELECTRIC
HEATERS ARE EASY TO INSTALL, CLEAN, BUT
EXPENSIVE TO OPERATE WHEN USING OIL OR
GAS, BE SURE TO PROVIDE A FRESH AIR SUPPLY
DIRECTLY TO THE HEATER TO SUPPLY OXYGEN
FOR COMBUSTION.
VENTILATING:
REOUIRE A TWO SPEED FAN RATED AT 1000 CFM.
AN AUTOMATIC AIR INLET OF 2 SO. FT. IS
REOUIRED. THE FAN CAN BE M9UNTED IN ONE
GABLE EN0 AND AIR INLET IN THE OTHER. BOTH
SHOULD BE CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT
FOR MORE INFORMATION S(E USDA BULLETIN
NUMBER 357 BUIILDING HOBBY GREENHOUSES.
SECTION A-A
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
II vn/ei 4- 0 ve
_ CORRUGATED FIBERGLASS PANELS
CORRUGATED CORRUGATED
BENCH B EENCtl SUPPORTS BENCH B EENCtl SUPPORTS
,./NOT SHOWN IN THIS VIEW ,./NOT SHOWN IN THIS VIEW
2x4 SILL P.T 2x4 SILL P.T
NOTE -I
%x4x6 CLEATS CENTERED
IN 4-0 BAYS a NAILED TO 1.l
UNDERSIDE OF EAVE PURLINS
FOR THE PURPOSE OF SECURING
TOP EDGE OF SIDE FIBERGLASS
PANELS.
\
ALTERNATE: ALTERNATE:
FLAT FIBERGLASS FLAT FIBERGLASS
PANELS AT ENDS PANELS AT ENDS
5hr4 PURLINS (3) EACH SIDE
CORRUGATED
/
/ FIBERGLASS
PANELS
_ BENe:H SUPPORTS
SEE DETAIL A
3 GRAVEL FILL
xl2 REDWOOD BOARD
GRADE
I I 4x4x4-0 POST AT
I I
--loI
CORNERS AND CENTERS
PRESSURE-TREATED WITH
L COPPER NAPMTHENATE
CROSS SECTION
;I;
ISOMETRIC VIEW
NAILS
SIDE
BRICK 0
BLOCKS UNDER
SUPPORTS
w-
DETAIL A
EAVE
.(l2) 4d NAILS
EACH SIDE
FRAMING MEASUREMENTS
=0
_I
0
=w
_!
N
=m
-ii
-
DOOR ONE END
lr----------
Y
-------~-- -----
1
Ir
I
,I
I/
II
I
,
II
II II 1
,
,I I
1~
I II
II /I
ji
,I
L
8 I
I
--__
---. il 1 I
PLAN
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
HOME GREENHOUSE
N.l 74
1 6161 1 SHEET I OF 2, BASED ON: UNIV. OF ILL. CIR. 860
8 RUTGERS PLAN NO. 156
L
7 NO 9 GALVANIZED
/- WIRE TIES, TWISTED
DOUBLE-GLAZED
WALL PANEL WITH
WITH WASHER %,
??I
2x4 POSTS
s-y
g-i
lx4 SASH STC ,1x3 AT CORNERS1
%w
d+
I
1 ;
l2- 0
---...__-------- ---- ~-- --.-.. .~~ -
I I
ROOF PANELS SLIDE
=+
DOWN FOR REMOVAL
-A
OR VENTILATION
AT RIDGE
\
LONG. FLATTEN 6EACH END
I I I 1
Ld LJ - -.
CROSS SECTION
-i
A
t- --
(THIN-WALL
FRAMING PLAN
5 MIL TYPE W-POLYESTER FILM
CEMENTED TO OUTSIDE OF PANEL
mk 2 FRAME
\
I
/sk %k46vi NONCORROSIVE 3 MIL FILM
METAL BRACES. FASTEN WITH CEMENTED
I NO. 6 NONCORROSIVE TO INSIDE OF
WOOD SCREWS PANEL
TWO 3 NO. IO SCREWS
USE LONGER BOLT AND TW
TO ANCHOR ENDS OF WIRE
4-2 L 2.
---+ - - --
* - .-I I
ROOF SASH PANEL
IO 6 0 1 2
SECTION A-A
NOT TO SCALE
lx4rl69~/z RIDGE
CAP
~hkv$kW F.B. WITH a/s DIA.
CARRIAGE BOLT 8 vmk 2 LAG
SCREW TO EACH RAFTER
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN
I I /I I
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS ..-...---.-..- ..- -.--- ---- . ..-..- ---..- . ..__
_..^
MALL HlIJtit DETAIL
,e, I
NI,EDSTIIL*DEP*II,Y~~*~~~~~,~~~~=~,~~.,~~~
/RIDGE CAP MEMBERS ARE CUT
FROM 1x4. COVER WITH AN
8 WIDE STRIP OF SHEET METAL
ROOF PANEL (RAFTER NOT SHOWN)
h
2 F.B
POST
EAVE CONNECTIONS
RAFTER DETAILS
NOTE:
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.