Beehive Rome Travel Guide
Beehive Rome Travel Guide
Beehive Rome Travel Guide
We created The Beehive Recommends hoping our advice and personal recommendations will make your visit to Rome that much more enjoyable. Restaurants, gelaterie, coffee bars and wine bars are divided by location of specic popular sites. Weve included addresses, but ask at reception if you need help with directions on how to get to any place listed below. You will also nd Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs), and practical information. Holistic Rome! is for those of you interested in specically vegetarian/vegan food and/or organic natural products and therapies. This guide is by no means comprehensive, so please let us know if you have any other questions or if there are any errors or changes we may not be aware of. Please know that your comfort, enjoyment and opinion truly does matter to us. If you have any suggestions, comments or questions and if we are not around, please e-mail Linda at [email protected] or Steve at [email protected] The Beehive has grown and changed a lot since its initial humble beginnings and we owe our success to the many wonderful guests who have come through our doors. We have had the good fortune of having many of you as return guests, and truly enjoy and appreciate the rapport and relationships we have cultivated over the years with so many of you and hope to with those of you we have yet to meet! We truly hope you enjoy your stay in the magical and maddening city that is Rome! Linda & Steve
TERMINI
The Beehive Cafe - at The Beehive
Open for breakfast 7:30-10:30 every day, Saturday & Sunday brunch 11-1:00pm, Wed, Sat & Sun evening vegan buffet aperitivo 7:00-9:30pm, drinks and snacks every day, special evening events. Outdoor seating available. Cash only. 0644704553 We follow a vegetarian, sometimes vegan and mostly organic menu and try to be as creative as possible with the limited space and restrictions that we have. We decided to offer a breakfast that offer a healthier alternative to the local coffee bar. Our Saturday & Sunday brunches are a mix of sweet and savoury and every Wed, Sat and Sun evening we offer a vegan buffet aperitivo which at !8 for a plate of food and drink is a delicious and economical alternative if you are burnt out on pizza and pasta. All of our coffee and teas are fair trade. Please visit Gianluca, Aimee and Francesco in the cafe downstairs.
Trimani - Via Cernaia, 37B (wine bar) and via Goito, 20 (wine shop)
Open lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday. Credit cards accepted. 06.4469630 Outstanding and extensive selection of local and regional wines. One of the oldest and nest wine shops in Rome. Their wine bar next door has ne food choices including canaps, swordsh with oranges and camembert stuffed with black trufes.
Bar Fondi - corner of via Milazzo & via Magenta (coffee bar)
Closed Sundays Simple, but delicious pastries (if you like cherries, try the cornetto with crema & visciola, a type of sour cherry) and cappuccino served with speed and efciency.
couscous, and other middle eastern goodies are served cafeteria style or to go in this generic looking cafeteria style place.
Mercato Esquilino - Via Principe Amedeo & Via Ricasoli (food market)
Closed afternoons and all day Sunday. After its many decades long former outdoor location at Piazza Vittorio it is now the largest covered market in Rome. Excellent for inexpensive, but great quality produce. Many stalls also have non-Italian food stuffs - spices, basmati rice, couscous, Indian, Mexican, American and Chinese. But watch your bag/wallet! If you go early, you can avoid the crush.
COLOSSEUM
Hostaria Isidoro - Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 59/61/63 (restaurant)
Open for lunch & dinner except Saturday lunch. Credit cards accepted. 06.7008266 www.hostariaisidoro.com Fernanda, the vivacious hostess, adds to the congenial and welcoming atmosphere. Ask for the house special - the assaggini (2 person minimum) and you will be brought plate after plate of small pasta portions until youre ready to burst or say Basta! (Enough!). Bring a big appetite. The assaggini has been a consistent favorite with Beehive guests.
Pasticio Via della Croce, 8 (pasta shop and secret lunch spot)
Open 10:00-19:00 (7pm). Open for lunch at 1:00pm sharp. Closed Sunday. A pasta shop and factory most of the day, at 1:00 it transforms into one of the best secret lunch nds in Rome. Get there at about 5 minutes before 1pm and grab a spot inthis tiny shop lled with elegantly suited locals. For !4 you get a plastic plate to ll with whatever the kitchen cooked up that day. That bargain price includes a cup of wine you pour from jugs of red and white on the front counter and water.
JEWISH GHETTO
Ba' Ghetto Milky - via del Portico d'Ottavia, 2A (restaurant)
Open for lunch & dinner. Closed Friday dinner & Saturday lunch. 06.68300077 Restaurants in this area are not cheap, but this kosher restaurant is a notch above the rest and offers some delicious Roman Jewish cuisine including the famous "carcio alla giudia" which are fried whole artichokes.
PANTHEON
LEau Vive Via Monterone, 85 (restaurant)
Closed Sunday and August. Open for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Credit cards accepted. 06.68802101 or 06.68801095 Its not Italian food, but thought it should be mentioned here because it is such an interesting experience. Restaurant run in a convent by an order of French nuns. The nuns do all the cooking, serving and singing! You will be sung to throughout the meal. On the pricey side, but all proceeds go to charity. An interesting way to spend an evening (and build up karma!) while eating an enjoyable meal.
Il Caff SantEustachio - Piazza SantEustachio, 82 and Tazza d Oro, via degli Orfani, 84 (bar)
Open daily. 06.68802048 www.santeustachioilcaffe.it Il Caffe Sant/Eustachio was established in the 1940s and both il Sant'Eustachio and Tazza d'Oro are both regarded as some of the best coffee in Rome.
Open Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00-20:00/8:00pm 06.68803155 Very good pastry shop, but just for take away. There is only one tiny table in the back.
TRASTEVERE
Suggestions for Trastevere provided by our friend, Tiffany Parks. Her blog which has a lot of inf or m a t ion a bout R om e a r t e x hibit s a nd r e v ie ws c a n be f ound a t ht t p: // thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/ Da Gildo Via della Scala, 31 (restaurant)
Closed Thursday. 06.5800733 A traditional and family-run osteria, here you can sample some of the classic staples of Roman cuisine, such as, bucatini allamatriciana, carbonara, carcio alla guidia or gnocchi alla romana at exceptional prices. A cozy atmosphere with funky artwork and a friendly, welcoming staff make it all the more alluring.
VATICAN / PRATI
Suggestions for the Vatican area provided by our friend, Gillian McGuire of Rome for Expats http://www.gillianslists.com/ Beehive tip: There is a decent and reasonably priced caf located in the Vatican Museums. VIA BORGO PIO (near St. Peters Basilica)
Dont miss a stroll down this picturesque street - stand at the Vatican end and look to the end of the street for two perfectly framed Roman umbrella pines. There are also a few good stops for a quick refreshment.
(the following suggestions are all conveniently located near the OTTAVIANO metro stop on Line A/Red line metro and close to St. Peters Square) FaBio - via Germanico, 43 (juice bar/sandwiches)
Open Monday-Friday 9:00-20:00/8pm. Open Saturday 9:00am-16:00/4pm Closed Sunday Our friend Tiffany Parks who made all the suggestions for the Trastevere neighborhood section has a sandwich here named after her! (Tiffany is a tour guide at the Vatican.) If youre looking for a healthy and delicious alternative to all the frozen food touristy restaurants near St. Peters, this is it. Lots of organic sandwiches, juices and smoothies. Lots of vegetarian and vegan options.
Gelateria dei Gracchi - Via dei Gracchi, 272 (Vatican) and viale Regina Margherita, 192 (Porta Pia)
Open daily. 06.3216668 (Gracchi), 06.85353508 (Regina Margherita) The owner used to build mandolins and now spends his days making some of the best gelato in Rome. They use only local ingredients and no articial avors or preservatives such as some of the best pistachio gelato made with Sicilian pistachios. Slow Food award winning gelato and you can taste why - light, creamy and delicious. This gelato is gluten free and they even offer gluten free cones by request.
Fatamorgana - Piazza degli Zingari (Monti), Via G. Bettolo, 7 (Prati/Vatican area), Via Lago di Lesina, 9/11 (Piazza Crati)
Open daily. 06.86391589 (Pz Crati location) Similar in style to the before-mentioned San Crispino gelateria, but Maria Agnese who owns and runs the shop is 10 times nicer. You wont nd attitude here, just genuine friendliness and someone who really cares about her product. Shell let you taste any avor and youll need her help deciphering the exotic titles: Cioccolato Kentucky an amazing chocolate gelato with a tobacco infusion. Dukkah cumin, sesame and coriander avor. There are several avors that focus on spices and herbs. Fruit avors include Mango & Lime, Apple & Cinnamon, and one made with pear, port and sambuca. Flavors are always changing. There are also the old favorites, chocolate, cream and pistachio. To top it off, all of their gelato is glutin free and made with all natural organic ingredients. A denite must do if you have the time and the inclination. At the Piazza Crati location, next door is Nemorense Park where you can take your gelato and wile away an hour enjoying a true taste of la dolce vita.
il Gelato di Claudio Torce - 2 locations: Piazza Monte dOro, 91/92 (near Via del Corso/Spanish Steps area) and Viale Aventino, 59 (Circo Massimo)
Open daily. Closed Mondays in winter. Claudio Torce is a true gelato artisan. Habanero pepper, gorgonzola, at least TEN different chocolate choices this is not your average gelato shop!
Open daily. Many interesting avor choices here. Refreshing lemon with basil, chocolate with Nero dAvola, pistachio nuts from Sicily, lavender and white peach. There are lots of milk free options as well and gluten free cones.
Grom - Via della Maddalena, 30A (Pantheon) and Piazza Navona, 1 and Via dei Giubbonari, 53 (Campo dei Fiori)
Open daily. www.grom.it Yes, this is a chain, there are three branches at the time of this update here in Rome alone. The avors change monthly and are all made from only natural, seasonal ingredients. In winter there are three different hot chocolates to try. Feeling indulgent? You can even add a scoop of gelato. They have gluten-free, vegan and soy options also.
Ciampini - Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 29 (off of main shopping street, via del Corso)
Closed Sundays. Credit cards accepted. Very good gelato in a very pretty piazza. The maron glace is what the crowds are usually here for. One of the real treats are the tiny chocolate dipped cones you can order from the freezer cases.
need a card to use any of the public phones, if you can nd them, they are increasingly rare to nd in the city. Internet - The Beehive and Clover & Acacia offer free Internet access for our guests both with a desktop (slow but free) and free wi- if you have your own laptop or smartphone. Please note while we are happy to offer this service free of charge, we cannot guarantee that there will not be computer or internet provider problems. Laundromats - There are several in The Beehive neighborhood, but the closest are a few minutes walk away at Via Milazzo, 20/b and Flashnet at Via Varese, 33. For Clover & Acacia, theres one at Via Principe Amedeo, 116. We do not mind hand-laundry of undergarments, but please do not use our facilities to do major laundry and we do not allow laundry lines in the rooms.
Via Nazionale (Piazza della Repubblica) - a noisy, smoggy street, and less pedestrian friendly but lots of
stores to choose from.
Via Condotti (Piazza di Spagna) - if you can afford anything on this street, we wonder why youre staying at
The Beehive! Great place to window shop and dream.
DEPARTMENT STORES
Zara - Via del Corso, 190 - this Spanish chain took over an Italian department store that was in this location
for years.
Upim - Via del Tritone, 172 (Trevi Fountain) - low to mid-range department store where you can buy
moderately priced clothing, toiletries, etc.
Oviesse - Piazza Vittorio Emanuele - low to mid-range store for inexpensive clothing. Especially handy if
the airline has lost your luggage.
MAS - Piazza Vittorio Emanuele - only if you are desperate or need a completely obscure item - they
seem to have everything, but not of the best quality - its almost like an archaeological site without the digging. Super cheap, crowded and always a mess, but an interesting place to wander around in and see some of the odd things they have for sale.
HOLISTIC ROME
ORGANIC MARKETS
In regards to holistic living, Rome has come a long way since we rst moved here in 1999. You can now nd yoga classes, vegetarian restaurants, and shops that sell all kinds of organic products. If you run into any other shops or restaurants that arent mentioned here - please let us know as we are always on the lookout. Canestro (3 locations)
via S. Francesco a Ripa, 106 (Trastevere) viale Gorizia, 51 (Trieste) via Luca della Robbia, 12 (Testaccio)
il Salice
via Reggio Emilia, 61/a (Trieste)
Biomens
viale delle Milizie, 7a "Prati/Vatican/Ottaviano metro stop)
Solo Natura
via Emanuele Filiberto, 128 (Piazza Vittorio/Manzoni metro)
Citta dell Altra Economia (this is a large fair trade complex that has an organic grocery store, fair trade
retail shop, bar and restaurant) Largo Dino Frisullo inside the former city slaughterhouses, also where the new MACRO is located (Testaccio)
ORGANIC FARM with farm shop, Saturday and Sunday lunches, animals and nature walk (car necessary to reach)
Agricoltura Nuova Cooperativa
via Valle di Perna, 315 (just south of EUR)
YOGA
Hatha style yoga:
Accademia Yoga, via XX Settembre, 58 (Porta Pia) www.accademiayoga.it
Iyengar yoga:
Studio Iygengar via Tagliamento, 45 (Trieste) www.studioiyengaryoga.com
Bikram yoga
Bikram Yoga Roma via Aurelia, 190 www.bikramyogaroma.it
Kundalini yoga:
Centro Naad (Monti/Esquilino) via Giovanni Lanza, 125 www.naad.it Budokanin via Properzio, 4 (Prati/Vatican) www.budokanin.com
MASSAGE
Jenifer Vinson at The Beehive by appointment, Swedish style)
via Marghera, 8 (Termini) !35 for 50 minutes for Beehive guests !45 for 50 minutes for non-Beehive guests
Balbi near the Jewish Ghetto) One of the four branches of the National Museum of Rome conveniently located right near Termini train station houses an amazing collection from 2nd BCE to 5th CE. Scupture, ancient coins as well as frescos from the walls of Empress Livias summer villa incredibly preserved.
MACRO (Contemporary Art Museum of Rome) Via Reggio Emilia, 54 (Piazza Fiume)
Closed Monday. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11:00-19:00/7:00pm, Saturday 11:00-22:00/10:00pm Ticket: !8.50 Romes contemporary art museum - not to be confused with the Modern Art Museum near Villa Borghese. Recent renovations included a huge expansion. If you go further up the street and around the neighborhood youll nd other smaller, independent contemporary art galleries. Also nearby is one of our favorite gelaterias in the city (see Gelato). About a 20-25 minute walk from The Beehive.
Villa Giulia National Etruscan Museum Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9 (Villa Borghese Park)
Closed Monday. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 8:30am-19:30/7:30pm, Ticket: !8 Splendid collection of artifacts from one of the most important pre-Roman civilizations the Etruscans.
CHURCHES
Rome has around 400 churches in the city center alone. Please note that with the exception of St. Peters many of these churches have closing times around lunch and reopen mid afternoon and on Sundays are only open in the afternoons. Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli - Piazza della Republicca (Termini)
Church that was incorporated into the ancient Baths of Diocletian by Michelangelo it also has a meridian line (see the astrological gures in the oor) commissioned by Pope Clement XI in 1702 that was used to check the time, predict Easter and check the accuracy of the new Gregorian calendar.
Beehive tip: Consider purchasing the Roma Pass. This integrated pass for !30 is valid for 3 days and includes: entry to two museums or archaeological sites, reduces prices after your initial 2 visits, use of public transit (bus & metro) for 3 days after rst validation, special line at the Colosseum and map, use of special travel health center. Please check the website for more detailed information and to purchase. www.romapass.it There is an English language option. The pass can also purchased at tourist information points throughout the city. Beehive tip: 110 Open Bus. Walking is truly the best way to see the city and we work with a couple of walking tour companies that can truly enhance your experience with their knowledge and expertise. However, if you just want a quick orientation of the city this hop on/hop off bus is a good option that takes you to all the sites, but does not provide a tour as such. Trambus 110 Open is a double decker bus with an open top and you can pick it up at Termini train station. Tickets are !20, reduced with the Roma Pass. Families of 4 people pay !50. The Colosseum
Open 7 days/week (closed 1 May, 25 December, 1 January) Hours: 8:30-16:30/4:30pm (last Sunday of October to 15 Feb) 8:30-17:00/5:00pm (16 Feb to 15 March) 8:30-19:15/7:15pm (Last Sunday of March to 31 August) 8:30-19:00/7:00pm (1 Sept - 30 Sept) 8:30-18:30 (1 Oct - last Sunday of Oct) Ticket: !12 Tickets can be bought on-line at www.ticketclic.it. Tickets can also be bought at the ticket ofces of the Palatine Hill located in Via San Gregorio, 30 and Piazza Santa Maria Nova, 53 (200m from the Colosseum). Ticket allows entrance into the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum as well. THE Roman monument. Made from travertine marble, the same stone as the Trevi Fountain. Magnicent even with all the stains of pollution. See if you notice the one small section that was cleaned in time for the Giubileo 2000 and youll get a glimpse of its former splendor. As of this edit, the Tods shoe company has contributed to a multi-million euro restoration which is projected to be completed in 2014. Keeping our ngers crossed.
Roman Forum
Open 7 days/week (closed 1 May, 25 December, 1 January) Ticket: (see above for Colosseum) Romes former public area - food courts and brothels eventually made way for business centers, law courts and temples galore. A walking tour (or an excellent guidebook) of the Forum truly gives you the insight into the past and to piece together what each of these ancient ruins were.
Imperial Forum
Also includes Trajans Market located at via IV Novembre, 94 Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00am-19:00/7:00pm The most impressive site here is Trajans Column which spirals up to 98 ft. (30 m) and has detailed scenes of Emperor Trajans victories. The column has been here since AD 113 / 113 CE.
Palatine Hill
Open 7 days/week (closed 1 May, 25 December, 1 January) Ticket: see the Colosseum) Area that was once the residence of emperors and aristocrats. Lots of green, cool breezes and a sh pond this hill is a nice change of pace from the often too dusty, too crowded and hot Roman Forum. Contains the ruins of the Palace of Septimius Severus as well as the recently restored home of the Vestal Virgins. Great views of it can also be seen from the Circus Maximus.
Baths of Caracalla
Open daily, 9:00-18:30/6:30pm, Mondays 9:00-14:00/2:00pm Ticket: !6 The Appian Way ticket is valid for 7days at 3 sites (Baths of Caracalla, Villa of the Quintilii, Mausoleum of Caecilia Metella) Largest and best preserved ruins of one of the three large public bathhouses of ancient Rome. Not on The Beehive map as it is a bit south near the Circus Maximus. Avoid the entrance fee and just admire their grandeur from the outside. In the summer, classical music and opera productions are staged here. www.operaroma.it (there is an English language option)
Circus Maximus
Depending on the time of year, now just a dusty or green open eld so you really must use your imagination to visualize the splendor that it was, but recent archaeological restorations are nearing stage one of completion. From the southern end you can see the Moletta Tower and other newly excavated fragments. Spectacular views of the buildings on the Palatine Hill can be seen from here.
A few of Romes public parks: Villa Celimontana & Villa Borghese & Villa Torlonia
If you want to escape Romes scooters and chaos and check into some greenery and solitude, have a picnic or simply soak up some sun in peace, try one of these convenient and beautiful public city parks. The Villa Celimontana is located on the south side of the Colosseum. Walk up Via Claudia and then just past the church Santa Maria in Domnica is the entrance to the park on the right. The Villa Borghese is north of the Spanish Steps. All three have childrens areas and plenty of green. The Villa Torlonia has a restaurant called La Limonaia which is a great place in the summer to eat outdoors. Its open Tuesday-Saturday 10:00-24:00/midnight, Sunday, 10:00-19:00/7:00pm and Monday 17:00/23:00/11:00pm. Reservations required for dinner. 06.4404021.
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Tomb of the Capucin Monks - at Santa Maria della Concezione, Via Veneto 27 (Piazza Barberini)
Closed Thursday and few hours in the early afternoon. Admission fee is a small donation. Short metro ride away from The Beehive on the red line (Line A) just off the Barberini metro stop. A crypt with the bones of over 4,000 monks artistically displayed in various scenes. If youre looking for bones, this is the place.
Crypt of the Capucin Monks - at Santa Maria della Concezione, Via Veneto 27 (Piazza Barberini)
Closed Thursday. Open 9:00-noon, 15:00/3:00pm-18:00/6:00pm Entrance by donation, suggested donation is !2 - no photography allowed, they are VERY strict about this. Short metro ride away from The Beehive on the red line (Line A) just off the Barberini metro stop. A crypt with the bones of over 4,000 monks artistically displayed in various scenes. If youre looking for bones, this is the place.
Dario Argento Horror Museum/Profondo Rosso - Via dei Gracchi, 260 (Prati/Vatican area)
Closed Sunday and during lunch hours. !3 for museum entrance, shop entrance is free. For a bit of horror camp in Rome, visit the museum & shop of Italian horror lm director Dario Argento. The museum is in the basement. Its teeny tiny and not worth a special trip, but if you are a horror fan and in the area, might be worth the pilgramage.
National Pasta Museum (Museo Nazionale delle Paste Alimentari) Piazza Scanderbeg, 117 (near Trevi Fountain)
Open daily, 9:30-17:30/5:30pm. Ticket: !10 included in the ticket price is audioguide All you ever wanted to know about pasta and then some. From the pre-Roman era to present time.
FIlm "La Dolce Vita" - Cinema Azzurro - Via degli Scipioni, 82 (Prati)
Every Sunday, 17:00/5:00pm. Ticket: !6 If you want to see the iconic Fellini lm in the city it was made, come on a Sunday to the small screening room of this theatre. In Italian witih English subtitles. There are many other unusual museums throughout the city: from a wax museum to a museum on nativity scenes. On the more traditional side there is a naval museum, a folklore museum, a museum on Roman civilization, etc. For more information on these museums and more, ask at reception.
DAY TRIPS
What are some good day trips from Rome?
In the summer we recommend taking a day to get out of the heat of Rome and going to the beach. The closest beaches are in Ostia, but because of how polluted these particular waters are we cannot in good conscious recommend them. If you dont mind taking a toxic dip, ask at reception and well tell you how to get there.
Santa Marinella is an easy beach day. In about an hour by train you can escape the city and trafc. Trains
leave from Termini several times an hour and tickets are !4.60 one way (prices subject to change). Unfortunately, the Italian coastline is heavily commercialized and full of private beach clubs (stabilimento) so youll have to pay an entrance fee and a bit more if you want a lounge chair and/or an umbrella. Most of these places offer other services such as toilets, restaurants and snack bars. For more simple, clean beaches, the closest destinations would be Sabaudia and San Felice Circeo - both about 1.5 hours south of Rome by car and 2-2.5 hours by public transport. No trains, youll have to take the blue Cotral pullman buses, which can be picked up from the Laurentina metro stop off the Line B (blue line) metro. Private beach clubs exist here too, but there are also many long stretches of free sand. If you want to get a little further away, take a train from Termini train station to a beach town called Sperlonga (youll have to take a train in the direction of Naples, get off at Fondi-Sperlonga after a little over an hour and then take a blue Cotral bus to Sperlonga). This town was built on a cliff top with whitewashed buildings and narrow winding streets. Down below the town is some of the cleanest sand and water near Rome. Many of the beaches are private so you may have to pay to use an umbrella & chair, but there are some stretches that are free & open to the general public. If you dont get a chance to go to Pompeii near Naples (which is also an excellent day trip , but you must leave early in the morning and its a full day) you can also check out the very well- preserved ruins at O stia Antica, which is about a 30 minute train ride away. Take the Blue Line (Line B) metro to Piramide and then take the local Lido di Ostia train. The one metro ticket pays for both trains. Context Travel (see Tours section in FAQ) offers an excellent tour of this archaeological site. The towns of Florence and Orvieto also make excellent day trips from Rome. Florence is only about 1.5 hours away on the Eurostar train. There is too much to say about this Renaissance city than can be covered here. However, because of the great inux of tourists and difcult to nd accommodations especially in the summer months, some people do decide to make it a day trip. Linda & Steve recently moved to Orvieto, a medieval town located on a high hill overlooking the Umbrian countryside. Orvieto is famous for its Duomo (cathedral) and also for its excellent white wine. Taking the train is easy enough from Termini station, which will get you to Orvieto in 1 hour (tickets are !7.50 or !15.50 depending on the train). A funicular directly across from the Orvieto train station brings you up into the town. Outside of the funicular station there is a bus, which can take you up into the main square. The funicular does stop running at 20:30/8:30pm. Enjoy the views, strolling the streets and an excellent meal at any of their very ne restaurants As Linda puts it, If its a medieval hill town, its cool. We have a our own list of personal recommendations of things to do and places to eat that we are happy to forward to you, just send an e-mail directly to Linda at [email protected]
Im a bit tired of sight-seeing and just want to relax. Can you suggest something else to do?
How about doing as the Romans do and indulging in some of the Italian il dolce far niente the sweetness of doing nothing. Slow down. Hang out at a caf and people-watch and catch up on conversation. In the evening (especially in the summer), go to any one of the roof-top terrace bars located at the higher end hotels and drink in the golden light and see the birds-eye view of Rome. You pay a bit more for the drink, but just think of all the money youre saving by staying at The Beehive! Some good choices are: Hotel St. George on Via Giulia. Hotel Raphael near Piazza Navona, Hotel Minerva near the Pantheon, Hotel Eden near Via Veneto, Hassler Hotel at the top of the Spanish Steps or Radisson SAS Hotel near Piazza Vittorio (and the Clover & Acacia guestrooms). If youre feeling particularly daring, rent a scooter and experience Rome as the locals. Try to rent on a Sunday when the trafc is lighter and you might actually be able to enjoy yourself rather than feeling like youve just made a death wish. There is a scooter rental point on the corner of Via Varese and Via Milazzo near The Beehive. Or you can get the most out of your experience by doing a scooter (or bicycle) tour with Scooteroma Tours at www.scooteroma.com Beehive guests receive a discount. **For more suggestions, check out The Romans Rome section below or check out Day Trips from Rome.
Testaccio the former blue-collar neighborhood of Rome, once the location of the city slaughterhouses,
located south of the Circus Maximus near the Tiber River. Now becoming an area of funky boutiques, health food stores, but always lled with great local restaurants, bakeries and a large, covered market. Visit the excellent Volpetti food shop on Via Marmorata, 47 (Closed Sunday) for the best selection in the city of cheeses, salami and other portable goodies - they will allow you to sample almost any item. They have a website and deliver worldwide so they can let you know how to take home those yummy edibles and pack them accordingly. An unusual site in this neighborhood is Monte Testaccio a mountain that was built from the remains of the clay pots, which used to deliver goods to the ancient Roman ports. Several restaurants and nightclubs are built into the hill, which is now covered in foliage and you can view the ruins from inside some of these locales. Another unusual attraction is the historic Protestant Cemetery behind Romes very own pyramid - an unlikely way to spend the afternoon, but in the summer months it offers an incredible respite because of the huge shade trees. You can sit on a cool marble bench, visit with the local cats from the cat sanctuary and pay your respects to Keats. At the partially renovated former city slaughterhoues, check out the new branch of the MACRO art museum as well as the newly opened complex Citta dell Altra Economia dedicated solely to fair trade products including a retail shop, bar, grocery store and restaurant. Restaurants to try in the area: Flavio al Velavevodetto, via di Monte Testaccio, 97 (open daily), 06.5744194 (you can see cutaways of Monte Testaccio described above inside the restaurant) Tutti Frutti, via Luca della Robbia, 3A, (closed Sunday, open for dinner only, 06.5757902) Felice, via Mastro Giorgio, 29 (Closed Sunday dinner), 06.5746800 N Arte N Parte, via Luca della Robbia, 15. (Closed Monday, 06.5750279) Osteria degli Amici, via Nicola Zabaglia, 25 (Closed Tuesday, 06.5781466 Pizzeria Remo (BEST Roman pizza), Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44, (Closed Sunday, 06.5746270)
San Lorenzo the main university area of Rome, home of La Sapienza University, located north-east of
Termini train station. Laid back and liberal student atmosphere during the day with (in our opinion) loads of restaurants and a lively nightlife. A must visit for you chocolate lovers - SAID (Antica Fabrica del Cioccolato, closed Sunday) - Romes oldest chocolate confectioners. At the front is their retails shop and in back is their restaurant and bar where you can either have lunch & dinner or just sit back with a hot chocolate in the afternoon. Be sure to visit during chocolate themed holidays such as around Valentines, Easter and Christmas for some gorgeously packaged confections. Restaurants to try in the area: Tram Tram, via dei Reti, 44 (closed Mondays, 06.490416) Punto Macrobiotico
Monti one of Romes oldest neighborhoods squeezed into a tight area just north of the Roman Forum and
west off of the main drag Via Cavour. Lots of cobblestone and narrow streets watch out for the scooters! Many unusual boutiques with one of a kind handmade clothing & jewelry, an excellent artisan chocolate shop, a tea shop with an interesting array of loose leaf teas and some interesting caf/art galleries, restaurants and pizzerias. Restaurants to try in the area: Taverna Romana on via Madonna dei Monti, 79 (Closed Sunday, 06.4745325) La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, via Madonna dei Monti, 9, (Closed Tuesday) 06.679.86.43 La Bottega del Caffe at Piazza Madonna dei Monti, 5 (good place for a pre-dinner drink or light lunch) Al Vino al Vino - via dei Serpent, (wine bar) some great wine and nibbles options - you can order enough here to make a meal if you don't want a big sit down dinner. The caponata is sweet, savory & delicious. The Franciacorta Rose is a favorite if you like pink & bubbly. Cavour 313 Via Cavour, 313 (wine bar) Open daily. Closed 3 weeks in August. Credit cards accepted. 06.6785496 Mother India - via dei Serpenti, 148 (Indian food) Open for lunch & dinner daily. Credit cards accepted. 06 4740777
Trieste/Salario- Were very biased about this neighborhood as we lived here for 6 years. Its denitely the
kind of neighborhood that after a few days, youll feel at home. For those of you who want a taste of Roman life, head to the covered fruit and vegetable market at Piazza Alessandria for inexpensive, fresh produce. On Via Alessandria theres an artisan pasta maker, a butcher, and on Reggio Emilia, a little organic food shop that also sells body care products. Theres a great wine shop/ enoteca, at Piazza Regina Margherita and in the same piazza. This is one of the greener neighborhoods of Rome starting with the Villa Torlonia, a gorgeous park with a restaurant/pizzeria, La Limonaia for relaxed dining al fresco. The Villa Torlonia is a great place for a stroll, a jog or a picnic. You can watch elderly Italian men playing bocce ball outside the local community center. In the park is the recently restored and gorgeous 18th century Casino Nobile (Mussolinis home in Rome when he was in power) while on the other side of the spectrum is Technotown which offers workshops in new media for 8-17 year olds. Other public parks within walking distance is the dog lovers Villa Paganini, the uncultivated, wild-ish Villa Ada and the polished Villa Borghese. Architecture? You can walk to Piazza Mincio and see some of the coolest buildings in Rome designed by Gino Copped and beautiful and timeless mosaics at the church of Sant Agata fuori le mura (Saint Agnes outside the walls). The restored and adorable Casina delle Civette in the Villa Torlonia houses a stain glass museum. Art? The newly expanded MACRO (Museum of Contemporary Art) located on Via Reggio Emilio hosts various revolving exhibits while nearby have sprouted up countless small contemporary local art galleries. Is it easily accessible? To reach this neighborhood, you could walk from The Beehive in about 20 minutes (we used to walk daily to and from), or you can catch a bus at Termini station, the #38 from Platform O and get there in about 10 minutes. This neighborhood has something to offer for everyone. Restaurants to try in the area: Da Emilio - via Alessandria, 189, 06.8558977 La Maremma - via Alessandria, 119, 06.8554002 Tribeca - via Messina, 29, 06.44250923 Gelateria dei Gracchi - viale Regina Margherita, 212
AND BEYOND
Just 30 minutes to 1.5 hours north of the city are several areas close to Rome that have their own interesting histories and hidden treasures in beautiful natural settings gently green rolling hills, lakes, medieval castles, ancient ruins and necropolises. A car is required to reach these places. Ask Linda for more information.
Do you have any recommendations for childrens clothing or toy shops? In my opinion, the best toy shop in Rome is Citta del Sole which has several locations including one near the
Pantheon. There are quite a few Italian artisanal objects that make great gifts for children depending on the age that are not necessarily toys such as paper products, leather bracelets, etc. For childrens clothing, I prefer the French brands such as Petit Bateau and Due Pareil au Meme as well as Spanish department store Zara. Italian childrens clothing are either extremely pricey (see the lush Pinco Pallino on via del Babuino, 115 near the Spanish Steps or Bonpoint at Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 25 near via del Corso). If you want a reasonably priced Italian brand, you might consider Benetton or Sisley located conveniently together at Termini train station.
THE BASICS
How do I use the public pay phone?
If you can actually nd a public phone, you'll need to buy a Telecom Italia phone card (scheda/carta telefonica), break off the perforated corner and insert into phone. When dialing a toll free number, you may or may not need a phone card to activate the phone. International phone cards give you more minutes if use the Telecom Italia phone card and dial the local access number. This card is different then the ones we have for sale at The Beehive, which is an international phone card. However, to use the international phone card at a public pay phone you would still require a Telecom phone card to activate the phone.
TRANSPORTATION
Where can I catch the bus? !How much are the tickets? How do I get from Point A to Point B?
Best bet is to go to Termini train station a major stopping off point for many city bus lines. The cost for a bus ticket is !1.50 and is valid for 100 minutes and can be bought at tobacconists (tabaccheria) or newsstands (edicola). ! Dont forget to validate the ticket once you board the bus. Bus service is based on the honor system, and ticket inspections are random. Rather than worry about a possible !50 ne, its just best to buy the ticket. Keep a few on you at a time or purchase a daily pass for !6, 3 day for !16.50 or 7 day pass for !24.00 If youre trying to get back to The Beehive by bus after 10:30pm/22:30 at night, locate bus signs with an owl on the top. These are the night buses. However, their running times are infrequent so depending where youre at it may be easier to take a taxi or walk. Take any bus with a nal destination of Termini and from there its a 5 minute walk to The Beehive. One of the few city websites that actually works - the public transit site is extremely useful. Go to http:// www.atac.roma.it and at Percorso input in the Da (From) section, Cinquecento. This is from the hub at Termini train station, which is close to The Beehive. Under A put in the address of your destination leaving out Piazza or Via, just the main name. It then tells you what buses or metros and the names of the stops to get to where you are going.
Where is the nearest Metro stop from The Beehive? From the offsite guestrooms, Clover or Acacia?
Both metro lines (Line A/Red & Line B/Blue) stop at Termini train station. Metro lines start running at 5:30am and stop at 11:30pm (23:30). Line A/Red is currently undergoing construction work and now closes at 9:00pm/ 21:00 until further notice. Taking the red Line A from Termini train station is currently a huge mess and trains run late. If possible, our personal opinion is to avoid Line A metro from Termini until the construction work is done and to take a bus instead. For the Acacia apartment its the same information as The Beehive. !For Clover and Milleori, the closest metro stop is Line A/Red at Piazza Vittorio.
How long does it take to get to Venice, Florence, etc.? How much does it cost?
We recommend taking the fast trains when at all possible. Times below reect Eurostar times. Eurostar trains are best booked in advance. Taking a slower train (IC or Regional train) can sometimes double or even triple your travel time, but cost considerably less. Venice: Milan: Florence: Pisa: Siena: Naples: Pompeii: 3 hours 50 minutes 3.5 hours 1.5 hours 3 hours (switching trains in Florence) 3 hours (switching trains in Chiusi) 1 hour 10 minutes 2.5 (switching trains in Naples)
Italys national rail service is called Ferrovie dello Stato FS for short. Fast trains, the Eurostar (ES), AltaVelocita (AV) or Frecciarossa (ES/AV) is by reservation only. To make the reservation you need to go into Termini station to the Eurostar ofce at the end of the long line of ticket counters and pay the supplement or book on-line. If you are traveling the same day, you can just go directly to the ticket counters. Cost of tickets varies and changes so your best bet is to check at Termini train station for the most current ticket prices or check out the FS website at http://www.fsitaliane.it/ There is a new train service called Italotreno (accent on the I), and offers limited high speed service between Rome Tiburtina and Ostiense train stations, Bologna, Milano and Naples. www.italotreno.it
Taking the train is the cheapest way if you are traveling alone or with little luggage. Buy your ticket at Termini train station at the newspaper stands for !14. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the airport by train. These trains start at 5:52am and leave every thirty minutes :22 and :52 minutes after the hour. Dont forget to validate your ticket before boarding in the green and white time boxes located on the platforms. They do check tickets and you will be ned if it hasnt been validated. Eurrail passes are valid on these trains. The trains for the airport depart from platform 25/26, but please check this as it does change. The walk to the platform is a good 10 minute walk away from the main gallery so plan accordingly. In addition, please note that for departures to the US or Israel, you will need to take a shuttle (Shuttle Express) once you arrive to the airport from the train to Terminal 5. Otherwise, by taxi is usually the best bet if you are leaving very early in the morning. We use a taxi service that charges Beehive guests at rate of !45 for 1-3 people, !50 for 4-5 people, !60 for 6 people (an additional !5 between 9:30pm/21:30 and 6:30am). Split between you and others in your party, this can be an economical and much more comfortable way of getting to the airport rather than dealing with the train. Advance booking is strongly encouraged as sometimes they are unable to accommodate last minute bookings. Another options is a shuttle service. You can book directly on-line at http://www.rome-airport-shuttle.com/"
In every taxi there should be a price list in several languages. Please note that taxi drivers at the train station are notorious for overcharging, but keep an eye out in any taxi you get into.
Through Eternity is another reputable company that offers a variety of more general tours and they have
slightly larger groups. Beehive guests receive a 10% discount when using promo code Beehive when reserving at www.througheternity.com If you want to experience Rome by scooter (or bicycle), consider the Scooter Mavens Scooteroma tours. Beehive guests receive a discount when using promo code Beehive when reserving. www.scooteroma.com
Eating Italy is a tour company run by Kenny Dunn, a Philadelphia native and now Rome transplant. The tour
takes place in the Testaccio neighborhood visiting various food shops and markets and tastings are included 9 in total. Beehive guests receive a 15% discount when using the promo code Honey. www.eatingitalyfoodtours.com If you are more wine inclined, our friends at VinoRoma www.vinoroma really know their stuff being sommeliers and food experts. Beehive guests receive a 12% discount on their Rome Food Tour http:// www.vinoroma.com/?p=211. Send an e-mail and mention that you are a Beehive guest to receive the discount. For a bit of a different tour, consider a Sketching Rome Tour with local artist Kelly Medford. Some of Kellys work can be found on the walls of our Sweets common areas. She is a talented artist, very sweet with a wonderfully low key and engaging personality. You dont have to be an artist to take this tour - thats the point! You can nd more information about her and her tours at www.kellymedford.com Beehive guests receive a 20% discount for her tour using promo code Beehive. Private cooking classes tend to be on the expensive side. However, we have had former guests recommend Cooking Lessons in Rome with chef Andrea Consoli for reasonably priced lessons. Reservations can be made on-line at www.cookingclassesinrome.com
Beehive tip: In high season (March-October), it is recommended to book walking tours and museum reservations well in advance.
For a bus tour, try the ATAC city Open bus 110. This city owned bus is a huge, red, open, double-decker, airconditioned bus that passes by about 80 of the more famous spots in the city. You can hop off and hop on at certain destinations. Tickets can be purchased in front of the train station on platform E in the main bus terminal. Its not a detailed tour as they wont give you any interesting information, but if youre tired and not up yet to walking around for 2-3 hours on a walking tour this might be the way to go (although walking is THE best way to really see the city). There is now a similar bus that goes to all of the major churches and basilicas and another that goes down the ancient Roman road, the Appia Antica called Archeobus.
LEISURE TIME
I would like to go for a swim, a run, take a yoga class - where can I go?
Swimming pools are hard to come by that are conveniently located to the center of Rome. There are several large hotels outside of the center that make their pools available, but cost quite a bit of money to use and if you can do without during your time in Rome, your money could be better used doing other things. However, in summer only, there is a swimming pool located across the street from the Palatine Hill entrance near the Colosseum. Theres an entrance fee and fees for a lounge chair and umbrella, but a nice place to cool off in the summer that is centrally located in a beautiful setting. As of summer 2011 it was still running, but not sure if it will be available in future. Going for a run in Rome is not that pleasant with the uneven sidewalks, cobblestone streets and tendency of drivers of scooters and cars to not really be on the look out for runners (or pedestrians for that matter). The only fairly close places to go for a run near The Beehive is the Villa Torlonia and the Villa Borghese parks which are not incredibly convenient if you just want to step out the door. We no longer offer yoga at The Beehive, but please see the Holistic Rome section in this guide for studios that offer drop-in courses.
BEEHIVE FAQ
Can I store my bags at The Beehive?
You are welcome to leave your bags for the day on the day of check-out, but ask that you pick them up by 10:00pm/22:00. For longer storage, please make an inquiry to Linda at [email protected] We are happy to accommodate your request if we can.
kitchen, we ask that you consider reserving at our offsite guestrooms, Clover or Acacia which have a fully stocked kitchen for guests' use.
How did you two end up moving to Rome and opening The Beehive? How did you come up with the name The Beehive?
Were more than happy to give you the abbreviated version, but for a more detailed account - we have in the last year done various interviews and you can read or hear more about our story at http://www.itats.org/abeehive-in-rome/ or http://www.realityabroad.com/2012/11/01/1492/ As for the name, we thought of many very, very awful and laughable names before coming up with The Beehive (youll have to pay us a lot of euro or pour us a lot of wine before we tell you what those other names were!) Linda thought of it while lying in bed one night dreaming about this big adventure we were about to embark on. We wanted a name that would evoke the impression of a place that was stylish and cute, but also cozy and comfortable, clean and sunny. We hope you agree that it works!
THANKS!!
We would like to thank our manager Yuli, our Clover & Acacia colleague Paolo Cassasa and our Beehive staff: Francesca, Gianluca, Leah, Luciano, Michela, the Zeitgusto husband and wife team of Aimee & Francesco Accolla and Jenifer Vinson, massage therapist extraordinaire. A very special thanks to Gillian McGuire and Tiffany Parks for special contributions to this guide. And last, but certainly not least - we would like to thank YOU, our treasured Beehive guest, for giving us the motivation to keep doing what we are doing. Revised November 2012