Cara Magazine August 2012
Cara Magazine August 2012
Cara Magazine August 2012
, St Jamess Gate,
Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800
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STRAP
18 | august 2012
Wildlife photographer David Jenkins talks to Suzie Coen about his
globetrotting adventures.
I WAS HOOKED ON AFRICA From
the moment I landed in Uganda to see the
mountain gorillas of the Bwindi Impenetrable
Forest. The continent continues to impress
me with its never ending supply of stunning
scenery, incredible wildlife and friendly people.
TRACKINGA TIGER IS THE ULTIMATE
THRILL Ive spent a lot of time in the jungles
of India and you can be sitting in a jeep relaxing
when suddenly the whole terrain comes to life
the deer, the monkeys and the peacocks all
suddenly start giving alarm calls and you know
that the king of the jungle is on the move. There
is nothing like it.
BEST PLACE TO SEE ORANGUTANS IS
At Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting National
Park in Borneo. I usually hire a boat with local
crew and sleep on the river. I wake up to the
ghostly call of the howler monkeys at frst light
and often see as many as eight orangutans in
the trees around my boat.
ARGENTINAIS MYLASTEST TRAVEL
HOTSPOT I was there recently to capture
pictures of the Orcas [killer whales] as they hunt
along the coast of Patagonias Valds Peninsula.
The whales deliberately beach themselves at high
tide on the shore and wait to pounce on clueless
sea lion pups playing at the waters edge. The frst
day of the hunting season usually provides the
most spectacular action images.
Dublin-born David Jenkins travels the world capturing extraordinary wildlife images in
beautiful and remote locations. He has tracked and snapped everything from polar bears to
killer whales, tigers to brown bears, mountain gorillas to chimpanzees, snow monkeys to
orangutans and leopards to cheetahs and great white sharks. Tis month sees Jenkins pack his
bags for his latest trip to Cape Town, where hes planning to shoot the great white shark.
3wildlifeadventures
1
BEAR-WATCHING IN ESTONIA
A two-part nature break runs
September and October, kicking
of in Helsinki, and moving onto
Tallinn in Estonia, then by boat east
along the coast to Alutaguse Park
near the Russian border, where you
sleep in a bear hide close to the
feeding ground of a large population
of brown bears. From 595 pps;
magneticnorthtravel.com
2
WHALE-WATCHING IN
WEST CORK September to
November is peak season
for whale spotting take a four-
hour boat trip to see porpoises,
dolphin, minke and fn whales of
the coast of Cork with local marine
expert Colin Barnes. Daily sailings
from Feen Pier, Castlehaven
Harbour, adults, 50; children, 30;
whalewatchwithcolinbarnes.com
3
FEATHERED FRIENDS IN
SOUTHERN SPAIN Malaga is
the jump-of point for a week of
bird-spotting in salt marshes, estuaries
and paddy felds. Expect to spot
migrating raptors as they glide the
thermals before heading south over
the Straits of Gibraltar to Morocco.
September 1-8, 1,240pps including
seven nights with full board, and all
meals. juliansykeswildlife.com
On my Travels
NEWS PEOPLE
THEMOSTUSEFUL THINGI CARRY
IS Aroll of duct tape essential
for emergency repairs and helping to
waterproof my equipment. My iPhone
comes in handy when passing time in
airports or waiting for animals to do
something interesting. My newfavourite
app is the Bushnell Backtrack GPS you
just turn it on, set your starting point
and then no matter howlost you get in
the jungle or anywhere else it directs
you back to your starting point.
I LOVE THE VIEW As I fy in by
foat plane to Geographic Harbour
on the Katmai coast of Alaska.
Surrounded by lush mountain
meadows and home to bubbling
streams where up to 40 brown
bears gather to chase salmon, the
bay boasts the most picturesque
landscape in the world.
EVERY YEAR WITHOUT FAIL
I RETURN TO The polar bear
denning (maternity) area in Canada.
The journey usually takes two days
(in good weather) and involves four
fights, a train ride, a jeep ride and
a drive in a half-track vehicle on the
snow and ice. We base ourselves at
an old naval cabin in the centre of
the region. Theres no running water
and if one person snores, everybody
knows about it but the rewards are
fantastic. By day we get to see and
photograph baby polar bears and at
night the sky is lit up by the glorious
Northern Lights.
I DONT DONORMAL HOLIDAYS
BUT I enjoy visiting Ireland two or
three times a year to see family and
friends. And I am planning to spend
a few weeks in Italy this September.
It will be the frst trip in a long time
where Ill probably leave the serious
camera gear behind. Im looking
forward to it!
Why travel far
for world class care?
To fnd out more about the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics or the services
we offer, talk to your GP, visit www.orthopaedics.ie or Tel: 01 293 7575
UPMC Beacon Hospital
Because you deserve better
At the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics, our team of Orthopaedic Surgeons,
Rheumatologists and Physiotherapists work together to provide you with rapid access to
one of the most comprehensive orthopaedic programmes in Ireland. All brought to you by
the trusted experts of UPMC Beacon Hospital, a hospital of the University of Pittsburgh
Medical Centre renowned for excellence, innovation and research in orthopaedics.
The UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics provides rapid access to a full range of
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20 | AUGUST 2012
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
English fashion model,
Daisy Lowe, spends
much of her career
travelling to and
fromexotic
locations for
editorial and
commercial
photo shoots.
She shares
her essential
tips and tricks
to looking good no
matter how long-haul your trip.
HAVE YOU BEEN TO IRELAND
BEFORE? Yes! Ive been to Dublin a few
times and always have the greatest time.
YOUR FESTIVAL FASHION TIPS? Face
wipes are a must! Don t wear
too much eye make-up till the
sun goes down and always take
a hoodie.
YOUR FAVOURITE
MODELLING ASSIGNMENT
TO DATE? Shooting with
Steven Klein.
YOUR MOST
TREASURED ITEM
OF CLOTHING?
My Acne combat
boots.
YOUR ESSENTIAL
BEAUTY PRODUCTS
FOR TRAVELLING? Sisley
lip balm and I always need
my hydration shampoo and
conditioner by Pureology.
BEAUTY TIPS FOR LONG
JOURNEYS? Therapists Secret
Facial Oil by The Sanctuary it
keeps your skin hydrated for the
whole ight! Its amazing ... a must for
travelling.
BEACH ESSENTIALS? Kiehls SPF
Factor 50+, SkinCeuticals UV Defense
SPF 50 for my face, and a Mason
Pearson hairbrush.
DESERT ISLAND PRODUCT? Sisley lip
balm I go through pots of the stu.
FAVOURITE DESTINATION?
Rio, Brazil.
YOUR FAVOURITE TREND?
Pastel colours.
Daisy was in Ireland to launch the Chic
Summer Festival at Kildare Village in
July. For more information, log onto
kildarevillage.com.
NEWS BEAUTY
4
Chanel Coco
Mademoiselle
Velvet Body Oil,
48, is a decadently
delightful product.
Softly scented
and pleasantly
pampering, its a
great way to layer
fragrance while
adding a light, satin
sheen to skin.
5
The Nourishing
Satin Oil, 49, from
Darphin contains
a roll call of the most
nutritious oils around.
Sesame seed, saower,
sweet almond, Inca Inchi
oils which are
blended with
red ginger and
ylang ylang
essential oils
to produce this
potent product.
It acts as a real
skin saviour
by increasing
suppleness and
smoothing any
roughness.
6
Bobbi
Brown
Beach
Body Oil, 42,
is a lovely
summer oil. Scented
with the brands popular
Beach fragrance, this
contains vitamins E and
C alongside avocado and
jojoba oils. Lightweight
and lovely, the summery
scent lingers long after
application.
7
Roger & Gallets
latest Fleur
dOsmanthus
Beauty Oil, 26.75,
is a zesty citrus-
scented oil that
adds a gorgeous,
natural-looking
glow.
BeautyONTHE GO
WHATSTHEBUZZ? Yves Saint Laurent have delightedtheir many fans withthe recent
release of Le Teint Touch Eclat, 38. Asoft gel withilluminating pigments
that addavividradiance tothe skin, this is acult product of the future.
1
The Yves Saint
Laurent Saharienne
Perfumed Dry
Body Oil, 41, is
enriched with
plant and mineral
oils to nourish
the skin as well
as imparting a
sophisticated
scent. A
must for sultry,
summer evenings.
2
One of the most
famous dry
oils is Huile
Prodigieuse by
NUXE, 31.35
according
to style icon,
Ins de la
Fressange,
most
Frenchwomen
own an item from this cult
brand with 32 registered
patents. This multi-
tasking, silicone free oil
is 20 years old this year
and is composed of six
precious plant oils that
help repair and refine
skin while keeping it
looking, and smelling,
divine.
3
The Superbly
Restorative Argan
Dry Oil, 31, from
one of NYCs oldest and
most famous beauty
brands, Kiehls, is chock-
full of antioxidants
and essential fatty
acids, which help to
improve the texture
of skin. This oil also
works wonders in
hair and helps to
tame the frizz that
can sometimes
result from too
much sun, sand
and sea.
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For a summery sheen that stops short of an oil slick, try dry
body oils. Ellie Balfe has the latest.
NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE VISItoR cENtRE
Irelands Most Unique Visitor Destination
MUSEUM OF
STYLE
ICONS
WWW.NEWBRIDGESILVERWARE.COM
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/NEWBRIDGESILVERWARE
Experience the glitz of Hollywood for FREE at the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre,
Irelands most unique visitor attraction. Home to the legendary Museum of Style Icons, showcasing
memorabilia from icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor,
Michael Jackson and many more. With great shopping, sumptuous food and the museums
outstanding permanent collection, this is a memorable experience for all visitors.
oPEN 7 DAYS, FREE ENtRY. PARKING FAcILItIES oNSItE.
Directions: Take the M7 from Dublin. Leave M7 at Junction 12 signed
CURRAGH / NEWBRIDGE and follow the signs into town. Turn right at shopping centre.
The Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre is 600 metres on the right.
220x290 Visitor_Newbridge_ad.indd 1 16/05/2012 16:02:16
22 | AUGUST 2012
The Devil I
Know by Claire
Kilroy (Faber,
12.99) out
August 16.
During the
boom, critics
kept demanding
that Irish
novelists write
about the
Celtic Tiger. Now the demand is
for economic crisis books. Claire
Kilroy, known for her elegant and
slightly strange literary thrillers,
has taken up the challenge. Set
against the backdrop of the
brewing debt crisis, the narrator,
Tristram, a returned migr, goes
back to his home town of Howth
in north Dublin to find it in the
throes of an overblown property
development, masterminded by a
grotesque builder he has known
since childhood and a shadowy
businessman he has never met.
Tigers in Red
Weather by Liza
Klaussmann
(Picador, 12.99)
out August 2. An
East Coast novel,
full of wealthy,
glamorous
characters in
white tennis
clothes, sipping Martinis. It spans
25 years, from 1945 to 1969, and
two generations of two families
who congregate at summertime
in Tiger House, the old family
estate on the upmarket island of
Marthas Vineyard. Told from
five different perspectives, the
action centres on a murder that
takes place one summer in the
late 1950s. This debut novel
from Klaussmann, a New York
Times journalist (and descendant
of Herman Melville, writer of
Moby Dick), was the subject of a
bidding war and is Picadors big
release for 2012.
Shelf LIFE
NEWS BOOKS
Short Walks
fromBogot:
Journeys in the
newColombia
by Tom Feiling
(Allen Lane,
20) out August
30. For decades
Colombia was
synonymous with
crime, narcotics
and FARC guerrillas. But now the
tourist board assures visitors that
Colombia es pasin, and that the
only risk is that youll want to stay.
How successful has the clean-up
been? Documentary-maker
and journalist Tom Feiling,
an expert on Colombia
(and the cocaine trade),
journeyed throughout
the country, down
roads that until recently
were too dangerous to
travel, talking to former
guerrilla fghters and their
ex-captives, women whose
sons were disappeared by
paramilitaries and nomadic
tribes, to paint a fresh picture of the
new Colombia.
Pulphead: Notes
from the Other
Side of America
by John Jeremiah
Sullivan (Vintage,
9.99) out August
2. Vintage is
bringing out
the European
edition of last
years hit in the
States. John Jeremiah Sullivan, a
Southerner with Irish roots, takes a
road trip across the States to the
Ozark mountains for a Christian
rock festival; to Florida to meet the
straggling refugees of MTVs Real
World; to Indiana to investigate the
formative years of Michael Jackson
and Axl Rose, and to the Gulf
Coast in the wake of Hurricane
Katrina and back again as its
residents confront the BP oil spill.
Whos reading what?
Irish novelist John Banville on
a return to poetry.
WHAT ARE YOUREADING? I recently
nished Richard Fords novel Canada,
which is superb heartrending, but
superb Ford at the very top of his
form. Also Im rereading Michael
Longleys poetry collection, A
Hundred Doors, a book of
marvels. WHERE ARE YOU
READINGIT? Usually at
lunchtime in my so-called
oce, an apartment in
the centre of Dublin that
is so quiet I sometimes
forget Im in the city. What
can compare to the pleasure
of reading? And what can
compare to a book, rather than
an electronic plastic tablet?
FAVOURITE PLACE FOR A
HOLIDAY? Abroad, Italy; at home,
West Cork. Hardly original. I envy
people who go to Patagonia, or
mountain climbing in the Hindu Kush.
But like the English poet Philip Larkin,
Id love to go to China provided I
could come home the same day.
BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A
FLIGHT? The letters of Isaiah Berlin;
there are two volumes, Flourishing
and Enlightening. He was one of
the great letter writers of our time,
by turns witty, gossipy, profound.
And/or Journey to the Abyss: The
Diaries of Count Harry Kessler, who
knew everyone and did everything,
almost. Heavy tomes, but wonderfully
comforting.
Ancient Light by John Banville is
published in Viking hardback, 16.99.
Vengeance by John Banville, writing as
Benjamin Black, is published in trade
paperback by Mantle, 12.99.
BOOK
FESTIVAL
Go to Edinburgh, August
11-27, for the worlds biggest books
festival, not just for the featured
writers Yiyun Li, Alasdair Gray, Roddy
Doyle, Howard Jacobson and about
100others but for workshops,
masterclasses and the festivals
very own independent
bookselling operation.
Home truths and modern-day horror: Bridget Hourican
previews the newreleases.
Contact our friendly Sales Team on: +353 1 856 0000 Email: [email protected] or visit: www.theccd.ie
In May we hit another signifcant milestone at The
CCD! We hosted our 500th event since opening in
September 2010.
In less than two years we have also won 15 Industry
awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001 accreditation,
and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%.
Find out for yourself why The CCD is the perfect
venue for your next event.
Over
Events so far...
24 | august 2012
Y
ou really cant beat
Ireland for scenery and
atmosphere. You can
attend any big race
meeting in the world, or any major
equestrian event for that matter, but
what you will experience here in
Ireland is truly special, says Tamso
Doyle, communications manager
with Irish racings governing body,
Horse Racing Ireland.
Ireland can boast at playing
host to some of the best racing
festivals in the world and overseas
visitors arrive in their droves for
the Punchestown National Hunt
Festival each April and the Irish
Derby in June.
Of course the summer is always
a busy time for us and apart from
Galway we have several other big
meetings, including the Killarney
Festival, from August 29 to
September 1 (killarneyraces.ie). Tis
is quickly growing in popularity,
Doyle says. It is also, without doubt,
one of the most scenic racetracks
in Ireland, set, as it is, on the edge
of the breath-taking Killarney Lakes.
Another picturesque track is
Bellewstown, which hosts its
festival on August 22 and 23
(bellewstownraces.ie), on the Hill
of Crockafotha in Co Meath,
overlooking the Mourne Mountains.
Leopardstown Racecourse
(leopardstown.com) on the outskirts of
Dublin has become one of the most
popular tracks for evening meetings
during the summer. Te addition of
the Big Top marquee is invaluable
as it can cater for live entertainment
in all weathers, says Doyle.
For those who wish to see some
scenic Irish countryside, a 40-minute
train ride from Dublin takes you to
Te Curragh racecourse (curragh.ie),
where you can experience the cream
HorseySet
Above, Dirk
Demeersman of
Belgium in action
in the FEI Nations
Cup at last years
Dublin Horse
Show.
of Irish fat racing between March
and October. Te Curragh hosts
fve Classic races each year, but an
equally popular race day
is August 12 for the Group 1
Keenland Phoenix Stakes.
Just like horse racing, show
jumping has always gripped the Irish
public, which has witnessed some
historic moments down through the
147 years of the Dublin Horse Show
(dublinhorseshow.ie). From the modest
days in the 1800s when prize money
averaged 550, to the glory days of
Eddie Macken in the 1970s, and right
up to the present day, this fve-day
spectacular each August is Irelands
premier equestrian event. Prize
money now boasts close to 1 million.
And the attendance continues to
grow each year, says JP Montgomery,
marketing executive at the RDS.
Tis can only be encouraging.
Tis year, the show moves its dates
back by one week to August 15-19,
to avoid a clash with the Olympic
Games, but Montgomery believes
this will not afect entries.
Te Nations Cup on the Friday
is always a big draw and, as usual, we
will have eight teams competing as
it is the fnal leg of the FEI [Nations
Cup] Series. Perhaps we will be
lucky enough to have some Olympic
champions here too.
But the show is not just about
horses, says Montgomery, there is
so much more to it. Ladies Day,
on the Tursday, is hugely popular;
we have entertainment daily for
all the family.
With the equestrian events at
the Olympic Games only a stones
throw away at Londons Greenwich
Park, the close proximity of Ireland
is bound to be too tempting for
some to resist.
1
TheGalwayRaces
summeRFesTival July
30to august 5 Spoil yourself
completely and indulge in The
Galway Races, left, at The Twelve
package. For a modest 2,012, stay
in the ultra-luxurious Suite XII, and
enjoy helicopter transport to the
racecourse; thetwelvehotel.ie
2
hampTonclassichoRse
show, us august 26 to
september 2 Set in idyllic Long
Island, this is New Yorks iconic end-
of-summer event, with high glamour
on and of the course. Watch many
of the worlds top show jumpers
compete for $250,000 in the
Grand Prix; hamptonclassic.com
3
BuRGhley hoRse
TRials, uK august 30
to september 2 This is
the ultimate test for horse and
rider. After all the action on
cross-country day, shopaholics
can indulge in the 200-plus trade
stands then relax on the lawn with a
glass of Pimms; burghley-horse.co.uk
From fat racing to show jumping, Siobhn English shares Augusts equestrian form.
3ofthebest...
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s ho p o nl i ne a t www. b l a r ne y . c o m
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
26 | august 2012
O
lympic tickets are a lot
like lottery tickets there
are winners and losers.
Te lucky strike gold and end up
with trackside seats at the Blue
Riband Mens 100m fnal and other
moments of high sporting drama.
Te rest are left empty-handed.
Or with back-row seats at the
Synchronised Swimming.
Of course, thats totally unfair
to Synchronised Swimming. Some
Olympic events may not conform
to everyones idea of true athletic
endeavour, but one thing is for sure
the atmosphere at every venue of
the 26 sports is guaranteed to be
fantastic. And the glitzy, futuristic
Aquatics Centre is worth a visit all
on its own.
With millions of tourists
descending on London, travel and
estimating travel times will also
be a lottery. Te Olympic Park,
home to the Olympic Stadium,
Velodrome, BMX Track, Riverbank
Arena and other key venues, is
in East London and serviced by
Stratford and Stratford International
stations. Plan your route carefully
and book wherever possible.
London 2012 (london2012.com),
which is committed to providing
full access to the disabled, has a
handy Spectator Journey Planner on
the website.
As part of their package, ticket
holders receive a Games Travelcard,
which is valid for the day of the
event, that allows free travel in
Londons zones 1-9. Te golden rule
is to leave plenty of time.
Security will also be very time-
consuming. One small, soft-sided
bag is allowed per person and
this must ft under your seat. You
cannot take in liquids over 100ml,
including water, although you can
bring an empty bottle that can be
flled up at water points.
For those without tickets,
however, there is no need to feel
left out. Tere are thrilling sports
for which no ticket is required. Be
honest. Would you prefer tickets
to the Mens 10m Air Rife or a
roadside position at the marathon,
that iconic feat of endurance that
started in Greece? Just like the
Olympics themselves. And then
theres the triathlon, its modern
relative, the ultimate test of
swimming, cycling and running.
Both races start and fnish on the
Mall with Buckingham Palace a
spectacular backdrop.
Similarly, you could fnd a good
vantage point on the route of the
men and womens cycling road
races. Every year the French line
the route of the Tour de France and
go mad watching the cyclists in
Day-Glo shirts pass in a colourful
blur. Te buzz should be amazing.
For something more sedate, though,
how about the 20km and 50km
Race Walks? Or the sailing at
Weymouth? All you need is a pair
of binoculars. And a warm coat, no
doubt. Tis is summer, after all.
If its the Olympic atmosphere
you are craving, then you can join
10,000 other ticketless spectators
at the Olympic Park to watch the
action on a giant screen the height
of three double-decker buses.
Like the other Big Screen sites
Trafalgar Square and Victoria Park
LondonInsider
Look out for Irish
marathon runner
Mark Kenneally
on August 5.
its frst-come frst-served, so get
there early. Its destined to be like
Wimbledons Henman Hill only
much, much bigger. Seb Coe, the
London Organising Committee
for the Olympic Games chairman,
said: Whether its Pistorius Park
or Dai Greene Fields our plans
for Park Live will create a green
and colourful place for fans to
cheer their heroes and soak up the
Olympic Park atmosphere.
At London 2012, in fact, not
having ticket may be, well, just
the ticket.
1
Cycle The mens and womens road
races start and fnish on the Mall.
They take in the Natural History
Museum, Richmond Park, the beautiful
town centre of Kingston upon Thames
and lots more. You need a ticket
for the loop at Box Hill, Surrey, but
otherwise choose a good spot and
make a day of it. Men: July 28, 10am;
women: July 29, 12pm.
2
Triathlon Its gruelling and its
exciting a 1,500m swim, a 40km
cycle and a 10km run. British
Triathlon recommends Wellington
Arch at Hyde Park Corner, the South
side of Serpentine Bridge, Buckingham
Palace, the Hercules Monument (the
eastern edge of the park) and the
Lido. Men: August 7, 11.30am; women:
August 4, 9am.
3
Marathon The womens
marathon and the mens
marathon both start and fnish
on the Mall and, snaking along the
embankment of the Thames and
through the Square Mile, take in a
whole host of Londons most famous
landmarks and attractions. Check out
the course on london2012.com. Men:
August 12, 11am; women: August 5, 11am.
At the 2012 Olympic Games some of the best
things are completely free, Ben Webb reports.
3ofthebest...
Aer Lingus are proud sponsors of the
Irish Olympic Team.
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ENJOY THE BEST VIEWS OF DUBLIN
FROM THE ROOF OF THE ICONIC CROKE
PARK STADIUM ON THE EXCITING
NEW ETIHAD SKYLINE TOUR.
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28 | august 2012
A
ugust brings passion and heat
to Santiago de Compostela,
the Galician city best known
as the destination for fervent
pilgrims who walk the famous
Camino de Santiago. However,
the city is not just heavenly for
blistered wayfarers; the less nimble-
footed devotee will also discover a
destination thats worth a trek. Here
are fve reasons to make that journey.
OntheRadar
SEE
Te Museum of Galician People,
housed in the old convent of Santo
Domingo de Bonaval, is a smart
route to a good grasp of the history
and culture of the region. Tere are
a number of rooms housed within,
each containing fascinating exhibits.
(Calle San Domingos de Bonaval s/n,
+34 981583 620; museodopobo.es)
EAT
Te local specialty, pulpo a la gallega
octopus served with paprika, salt
and pepper, and a drizzle of olive
oil is readily available. For those
seeking the upper end of the scale,
Casa Marcelo serves pumped-up,
sophisticated versions of local
classics. (Rua Hortas 1, +34 981 558
580; casamarcelo.net)
PRAY
Te fnal destination on the route
for peregrinos is the tomb of Saint
James, inside the citys main
cathedral (Catedral de Santiago
de Compostela). A baroque faade
encloses its hallowed Romanesque
interior and a visit can take up more
than a few hours, or not, depending
on your interest in such things.
VISIT
A daytrip south to the coastal town of
Baiona is a worthwhile excursion. Its
historical claim to perpetuity is that
it was here Christopher Columbus
Pinta frst landed, bringing news of
the New World back to the Old. For
beachcombers, Praia de Amrica is
a beautiful stretch of sandy beach a
little further north.
DRIVE
Five hours away, by car, the snow-
capped Picos de Europa mountain
range is breath-taking. If that drive
seems like a long haul, the scenic
coastal route drive (PO552) from
Baiona to the charming town of
Tui on the Portuguese border is a
worthy alternative. While in Tui,
a short hop across the border to
Valena provides more great views
and good value shopping.
Santiago de Compostela is not just a destination for weary pilgrims, the city has a lot
to ofer all its visitors, as Eoin Higgins discovers.
news destinations
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IntervIew
30 | august 2012
IntervIew
Acting may have given Maria Doyle Kennedy a higher profle but, with
a new album out this month, music remains her big passion. However,
as she tells Tony Clayton-Lea, her four children always come frst.
Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
F
ollow your bliss, the wise,
philosophical saying
goes, and the bliss will
follow you back. No,
were not talking about
Twitter blackmail but
rather a form of interactive karma,
hard work and a sense of ambition.
Whatever it is, however, that makes
a person a success on his or her own
terms is something that shouldnt be
shrugged of as mere happenstance.
Talk to 47-year-old mother of four,
Maria Doyle Kennedy, about this
shell set you straight.
Unlike some Irish performers
who are either this or that, Doyle
Kennedy is this and that. Straddling
a few generations, there are some
people who may remember her
from her hippy chick days as the
tambourine-rattling, fringe-ficking
singer in Hothouse Flowers and Te
Black Velvet Band. Or perhaps you
know her from her debut movie role
as a struggling Dublin soul singer in
Te Commitments?
Its more likely, however, that
most people will be aware of her
skills as an actress rather than as a
singer. From a rake of movie roles
(including A Further Gesture, Miss
Julie, Te General, Spin Te Bottle,
Albert Nobbs, and the forthcoming
Neil Jordan movie, Byzantium) to a
long list of television work (including
Queer As Folk, No Tears, Tursday
the 12th, Father Ted, Te Tudors,
Dexter, Downton Abbey, Titanic),
Doyle Kennedy has slowly but surely
infltrated her way into households
across Ireland, the UK and the US.
Her rise to an understated kind
of fame (her favourite level Id
fnd OTT fame unpleasant and
uncomfortable, she has said in
the past. Some people know me,
some dont.) began when she left
Trinity College Dublin more than
25 years ago. Ten, she recalls, she
was starting to defne what I liked.
You also learn proper things about
friendship and the kinds of people
you want to be around and to form
bonds with. I must have been in a
particularly good year because there
are a lot of people who are still close
to each other, and we see each other
every now and again.
When I went to college I dont
think anyone else from my secondary
school went there, so I was pretty
much on my own. I would have
thought of myself as quite open-
minded and liberal, but I found I
had a natural bigotry, or perhaps a
knee-jerk response, to people with
very posh accents! It was an inverse
snobbery that you tend not to think
of as a bias but, of course, it is its
own form of prejudice. And that was
good to see and recognise within me
and to be aware that you shouldnt
judge things like that.
Te notion of actively wanting
Themany
MarIa
facesof
30 | august 2012
IntervIew
august 2012 | 31
31 | august 2012
IntervIew
32 | august 2012
IntervIew
to be involved in music started at
TCD. It was there that she drifted
into being a singer with Hothouse
Flowers, but it wasnt until later that
she started writing her own material.
Im a late bloomer, she admits. I
spent most of my 20s learning how to
be a mother, so that was my primary
focus. When I learned a little bit
about that, it felt easier to give some
time to other pursuits.
She left Hothouse Flowers because
she felt she couldnt properly juggle
the lifestyle of a touring/performing
musician and a committed parent. A
subsequent music outing, Te Black
Velvet Band (which she co-founded
with her husband, Kieran), proved
more benefcial to both creative and
domestic duties, but in the early
1990s, Doyle Kennedy made her
movie debut in the aforementioned
Te Commitments, the Alan Parker-
directed adaptation of Roddy
Doyles book.
It was exactly like it seemed,
she remembers of her frst flm
experience. It was great fun and I
made lifelong friends out of it. I dont
think Id ever want to go back to it,
however, but I have nothing but good
thoughts about it.
Acting was never on the career
agenda, yet slowly but surely she
drifted into it. About two years
after Te Commitments, a lot of the
same flm crew were making In the
Name of the Father, so I went down
just to say hello to them and have
a bit of lunch with some of them,
and I ended up staying for hours.
I realised I had enjoyed the acting
vibe, the being on set process, but
I hadnt really thought about it in
the intervening time. Being in the
middle of something such as flm-
making was a truly collaborative
process the actors motivations,
their actions and something I
found incredibly interesting. Tat
kind of human contact is very
stimulating and that was when
I began to engage seriously with
acting.
And so, following a series of
acting classes, the apprenticeship
began, with Doyle Kennedys passion
for music sublimated by awareness
that there was another form of
creative expression she could engage
with and get paid for. I didnt have
any training and so I learnt on the
job, defnitely. Te acting classes were
just to see if I could do other things
with my life. I found that I liked it,
though.
Te work started as a trickle of bit
parts and character studies, gradually
increasing to a steady stream of
roles in both flm and television that
continues to this day. I had the great
fortune to work with great people,
she readily remarks, and with that
you watch them, learn from them.
Curiously, she has said no to a lot
of flm and television work ofered
to her. Why? Well, the priorities
are kids frst, then music and then
acting. Id only consider acting if I
had downtime from the music, and
of course things have to ft in around
the children. It doesnt suit me to be
away from them very much and it
doesnt suit them either. I suppose
there are a few things Ive been asked
to do that I would have liked, but
then there is the work youre ofered
that I didnt think was any good.
Te hard graft instinct comes
from her parents, she says. Tey
worked very hard because they had
to, and so do Kieran and I, because
we have four kids. With all the work
she does between music and movies
(as well as tending to her brood, one
of whom has Downs syndrome), the
difculty of being a parent as well as
an earner revolves around blending
time-management skills and business
acumen with being a mother hen and
parental therapist.
Its difcult to try and get it to
stick together anyone who is a
parent and who works knows that, so
its not peculiar to what I, personally,
experience. Once you have a child
you just start feeling guilty and
that never stops! Sometimes you
feel youre just sticking everything
Maria Doyle
Kennedy in her
role as Queen
Katherine of
Aragon, from
The Tudors.
The biggest thing for me when Im on stage is that I
dont think about the ego or insecurity at all. In fact,
being on stage is probably the safest place I can get to.
Its great, very liberating.
For show & shuttle bus from city centre.
Now booking for 2012 & 2013
One of Dublins
Top 10
Get the free App
IntervIew
34 | august 2012
IntervIew
CItY I really like New York. Everybody
says its not the same as it was in the 1980s
but I still think its like a shot in the arm
when you go there. Budapest is beautiful
and really interesting in a crumbling, faded
grandeur kind of a way. Theres a lot of Art
Deco there, too, which I really love. And
Dublin, too, I really like, it goes without
saying
DUBLIn CItY AttrACtIOnS Oh,
its the people, isnt it? But thats possibly
because of the fact that Im from the city.
I think the arts scene notably in theatre
and visual arts has always been very
stimulating. People have so much energy in
that area, and theres still a will to engage
and surprise.
FAvOUrIte vISUAL Art eXHIBItIOn
The photography exhibition, Dublin and
Other Portraits, by Evelyn Hofer at the
Gallery of Photography (Meeting House
Square, Temple Bar, Dublin), is amazing.
(galleryofphotography.ie. Until August 31.)
BOOKS Im a bit obsessed with City of
Bohane by Kevin Barry its such an amazing
book. It creates its own world, its so visual,
very descriptive and so you really just get
into it. Another book Ive liked recently is
The Strangers Child by Alan Hollinghurst.
Its about a family in England and it goes
through the cycle of the family from start to
fnish. Really superb.
MUSIC Im still addicted to Midlakes
album, The Trials of Van Occupanther. I also
love the Fleet Foxes album, Helplessness
Blues, and Im currently listening to a Dublin
band called Nanu Nanu, which features a
really good singer called Laura Sheeran.
Everyone should check them out, I reckon.
(nanunanu.bandcamp.com)
MARIA DOYLE KENNEDYS FAVOURITE
Girl with a bicycle, Dublin, 1966 by
Evelyn Hofer at the Gallery of Photography
together with Sellotape, and that
youre getting nothing right. But, you
know, I think my kids are amazing,
unafraid and open-minded.
Doyle Kennedy is an open-
minded person herself. While she
tends to shy away from answering
any questions she feels infringe on
her privacy, she is honest enough
to admit to being a person and a
performer of extremes.
Performers seem to have massive
contrary characteristics, she says.
Tey can show of, yet also be
deeply insecure. Complete extremes,
so, and yes, each of those pertain
to myself, defnitely. Isnt it mad
that people are made up of such
contradictions? Te biggest thing
for me, however, when Im on stage
is that I dont think about the ego
or insecurity at all. In fact, being on
stage is probably the safest place I can
get to. Its great, very liberating. No
worries Im just there in the zone.
Te acting is all well and good,
you sense, but music is where
Doyle Kennedys heart and soul lie.
I wouldnt spend a day without
singing, even just to myself,
she reveals, and Im always
percolating a bit of a song in my
head. Her forthcoming album,
Sing, is yet another example of
where percolation, passion and
instinct coalesce in a collection
of quite gorgeous songs (across
which she collaborates with the
likes of John Prine, Paul Brady and
Damien Rice).
When youre making an album
you become so consumed by it its
a bit of a mountain you have to
climb and youre continuously asking
yourself is this right, is that right, are
you happy with it, and so on.
Yet when its done and youre proud
of it, you have to go and tell people
about it.
Shell be doing that by touring
Ireland throughout the summer,
thinking of being on stage, in
the zone, and living in the here
and now.
You have to live, dont you?
she says. Te fundamental things
that are necessary and constant are
little more than food and shelter.
Tinking about those keeps you in
the moment.
Sing, by Maria Doyle Kennedy, will be
released on Mermaid Records on August 31.
She is touring Ireland in August and will
perform at Dublins Vicar Street venue
on September 29. Maria Doyle Kennedy
can be seen in Neil Jordans new flm,
Byzantium, which will be released early in
2013. For further information on tour dates
and related news, visit mariadk.com
M
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36 | august 2012
people people
36 | august 2012
AUGUST 2012 | 37
I
r
i
s
h
LONDON
This band of young Irish people left home to
pursue careers as diverse as acting and fashion
design, television producing and cooking.
Amanda Cochrane meets six ambitious young
creatives making it big in London.
Photographs by Verity Welstead.
The new
T
he face of London is changing fast
as a new wave of Irish twenty- and
thirty-somethings leave Ireland for
Britain in the hope of better job
prospects and a change of scene.
More than a thousand a week, in
fact, are crossing the Irish Sea, according to
the Irish Central Statistics Ofce, with most of
them heading for the capital.
For the most part, this new wave of the
Irish diaspora isnt hanging out in Kilburn
or Cricklewood hoping to wield a hoddy,
but aiming for more afuent areas such as
Clapham in southwest London stroll into
a local restaurant or bar and you will hear
the gentle hum of the Irish accent or to
trendy Shoreditch, Hackney and Dalston. In
East London a hub of successful young Irish
creatives are making a lot of noise. Teres
the fashion photographer Boo George, Frieda
Gormley, a former fashion buyer for Topshop
who co-founded interiors and fashion brand
House of Hackney, and artist/photographer
Niall OBrian. And thats just a few of them
Irishman Paul Daly, the artist-turned-
designer behind a raft of cool London bars and
music events like Zigfrid von Underbelly in
Hoxton, Roadtrip in Old Street and the recently
An asymmetric pink coat, glitter
fringing and cut-out lace were
just some of the hot looks by the
creative genius of Northern Irish
designer J.W (or Jonathan William)
Anderson, launched in London this
June. Jonathan, 27, launched his
rst womenswear collection four
seasons ago and is rapidly becoming
an established name in menswear
too. His signature androgynous look
plays with proportion and form to
give everyday clothes an avant-
garde twist.
Jonathan grew up in a sporting
family in Magherafelt, Derry his
father was the Leinster teams rugby
coach and his brother plays for
Munster but he was introduced
to the ner points of fabric by his
grandfather, who was the head of a
textile company, and his grandmother,
whose skewed sense of humour and
dress sense Jonathan has inherited.
He left Northern Ireland and went
to drama school in Washington for
a couple of years, but quickly lost
interest. It wasnt ticking enough
boxes for me, he admits. In 2004
he moved to London and applied to
the London College of Fashion and
at the same time worked as a visual
merchandiser for Prada. For an
industry like fashion, ultimately you
have to live in the city, Jonathan says,
but to evolve and get bigger you need
to travel. Once you go to dierent
places you see dierent cultural
references.
This September, Anderson
launches his rst high street
collaboration with Topshop. It gives
me the opportunity to reach a much
wider audience with my designs,
he says. It has always been very
important to me that my collections
are made accessible to anyone
interested in fashion and design.
J.W Anderson clothing is available in
Belfast in Please Dont Tell and in London
through Liberty, Browns and Harrods, and
online at net-a-porter.com.
JONATHANANDERSON
FASHION DESIGNER
38 | AUGUST 2012
PEOPLE
opened Rattlesnake in Islington,
started his career by designing R-R
nightclub in Dublin. He moved
to London in the 1980s to study at
Goldsmiths School of Art and soon
made the capital his permanent home.
A London veteran, he has seen it all
before and fully understands why the
next generation is coming to the UK.
London is unbelievably cosmopolitan
and dynamic, he says. It never stands
still. Tere is something happening all
the time.
We may have moved on from the
low-skilled exodus to the UK of past
generations, but the transition of
moving to a new city can still be quite
daunting, as some young Irish have
found. However, these days there is a
solid support network for those who
need it, especially at the London Irish
Centre, often an essential stop-of for
many young Irish migrants who have
recently moved or are considering a
move to London.
One of the most difcult aspects of
moving to a new place is establishing
a social network, says Jef Moore,
director of welfare at the centre. Tis
can be particularly difcult in London.
Geography means that you may have a
close school friend on the other side of
the city but only see them once a year.
Research carried out by the centre
reveals that many of the new arrivals
are employed in managerial and
professional occupations, but have
also found great diversity. Some
are doing well in the City and others
are living in trendy Shoreditch and
working in felds like media and design,
says Jef.
So is Irelands loss, Londons gain?
Or will the migrants who take the trip
across the Irish Sea eventually fnd
their way home with newfound skills
and confdence? Paul Daly certainly
thinks so. Now theres an opportunity
for people like me and Id love to do
something in Dublin.
Meanwhile Jef Moore thinks the
idea of a brain drain, in relation to
Irish migration, doesnt take in the
larger picture. Irish migrants are
coming to London to develop skills
and seek opportunity, but many are
looking for creative and innovative
ways to make lasting economic and
social ties between the two countries.
Former scientist Niamh Shields, who lives in
Balham, South London, but has lived all over
the city, started her food blog (eatlikeagirl.
com) in 2007 for fun. She could easily have
turned her hand to music writing she is
equally passionate about both but food won
out. I had been posting some pictures and
recipes on Flickr for a while and got some
great feedback, which made me think I should
start my own food blog, says Waterford-
born Niamh, 37, who once had a market stall
in Covent Garden selling her legendary slow
roasted shoulder of pork and traditional
Waterford blaas.
Success came quickly. One gloomy
summers day the Guardian recommended
one of her blogs warming soup recipes and
things started to rollercoaster. A year later
the Times listed Niamh as one of the worlds
top 10 food bloggers and in 2011 the Observer
Food Monthly awarded her best food blogger.
Comfort and Spice, her book of home-cooked
recipes, was published by Quadrille last
September and, in May, Lyons Press bought the
US rights.
With a gig in a new cookery school near Old
Street where she runs evening classes her
bacon masterclass is a sell-out every time
and plans for brunch and supper clubs in the
Liberty Lounge on Petticoat Lane, plus a new
book in the ong, theres no stopping this
dynamic cook.
And she may even turn her hand to music
writing. I love going to live gigs and London has
so much to oer from the Royal Festival Hall to
the gypsy music festival at the Ritzy Cinema in
Brixton, says Niamh, who likes to wind down
after a cookery class with cocktails and a quick
bite at the Zetter Townhouse in Clerkenwell.
Im a creature of habit and I always have the
same thing: a gimlet, a scotch egg, followed
by Merguez sausages and white bean mash.
Delicious.
For more details of Niamhs cookery courses,
visit centralstreet.org.
NIAMHSHIELDS, FOODBLOGGER
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40 | AUGUST 2012
PEOPLE
PAUL REID, ACTOR
Gregarious actor Paul Reid, 30, who has appeared
on stage in Dublin in Alice in Funderland and Les
Liaisons Dangereuses and on screen in Raw and
Love is the Drug, will appear at The Donmar
Warehouse this summer with Brian Friels
Philadelphia, Here I Come. Its a dream come
true for the Dublin-born performer, who
studied art before turning to acting. Its
so highly respected, Paul says seriously.
Whenever I visited London I would walk by the
Donmar and think to myself, Someday, someday,
so now I have to set myself a new goal.
Paul has been commuting between Dublin and
London for the last couple of years. Every time I came
over to London to try it out I would be oered a part
back in Dublin, it was ridiculous, says Paul with a broad
grin. I was in the airport on the way to London when I
got a call about Alice in Funderland, but Imreally glad I
did it. I fell in love with Dublin all over again.
However, the call of London was too strong and
he returned in June to seek his fame and fortune.
My Grandma said to me never look back, which
is amazing because the same lines are in the play.
Ive no ties, no wife or kids keeping me at home so I
may as well go for it.
Living centrally in Waterloo, Paul likes to relax by
people watching along the Southbank or sipping a
coee in Soho. It probably sounds a bit cheesy, but
I love watching London passing by. The diversity is
so entertaining, With his determined outlook, Pauls
future career looks promising. Whenever I get a gig,
Im always looking for the next one. My agent tells me
to chill out and enjoy the job, but Im always straight
onto the next thing. Work breeds work.
Philadelphia, Here I Come, by Brian Friel, 26 July to 22
September, Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham Street, Seven
Dials, London, +44 207 845 5822; donmarwarehouse.com
PEOPLE
40 | AUGUST 2012
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ZoeRocha, TelevisionPRoduceR
Television producer Zoe Rocha, 29, eldest daughter of fashion
designer John Rocha, moved to london seven years ago to
pursue a career in flm and television. With a degree in english
literature and Film studies and some work experience in props
for RTe, she fred of 250 cvs and moved to the Big smoke
convinced she would fnd a job. i arrogantly thought ill move
to london, theyll give me a job and they did! says Zoe with
a laugh.
she landed a job with hanWay Films, where she worked
with oscar-winning flm producer Jeremy Thomas. Today she is
head of production for stephen Frys sprout Tv and works on a
variety of projects, including a new comedy series for sky with
chris odowd and a series called Planet Games, which is being
shot during the olympics.
Zoe has plans to set up her own production company. she
is also co-writing a comedy series set in ireland with a friend,
duncan Preston, and is developing a flm on fashion. The idea is
that we will look at the industrial side. its quite difcult to handle
because most people are intimidated by the fashion world.
in her spare time, Zoe, who lives in clerkenwell with
partner Matt, a graphic designer and musician, loves to eat
out in restaurants such as ciao Bella on lambs conduit
street. We found it by accident. Whenever you go there
its completely packed, but just by word of mouth. it has no
website or promotion and they love their locals. she also
loves hanging out by the pool of shoreditch house. its
incredibly cool, she says, but every time i walk in there i
think i should be wearing shades.
people
42 | august 2012
For full terms & conditions see website. Rate quoted based on two adults sharing, single supplement discount of 10/10. Child up to age 12 years stay in
adults room for 10/10. Subject to promotional availability until 30th April 2013. Book the 79/109/119 rates, through the contact details above,
using promotional code CARA12. For Croydon Park Hotel book on the phone via +44 (0) 208 680 9200 or email [email protected]
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44 | august 2012
AUGUST 2012 | 45
Fashion stylist Celestine Cooney, 32,
never planned to move to London. She
met the fashion guru Nicola Formichetti
while visiting for the weekend and
landed a job. I was over seeing some
friends and he oered me a job and Ive
been here ever since.
Celestine worked with Formichetti
for two years before deciding to branch
out on her own. I dropped my portfolio
into Dazed & Confused, but I wasn t
aware of the scene or how things worked
here, she admits. Today she is one of
the citys most sought-after fashion
stylists working for high-end magazines
such as Vogue and hipster designers like
her friend Simone Rocha.
She is also one of the founding
editors of cult fashion magazine Twin.
A combination of art and fashion, the
bi-annual title features photography
by some of the worlds leading
photographers including Irishman Boo
George, who also shoots for British
Vogue. The idea was to build a brand,
Celestine says. Its about a certain kind
of girl, who is very down to earth. Its
meant to be something really beautiful
and timeless, something you keep.
When shes not travelling between
London and New York, Celestine likes
to hook up with friends in her East
London local, The Royal Oak, or cook
a huge roast at home. I love living in
Hackney, she says. Its a really vibrant
area with great restaurants such as a
Little Bit of What You Fancy and lots of
cool galleries. And Ive got an incredible
group of friends nearby. Theyre brilliant.
They are like your family when you are
away from home.
Twin is on sale in Liberty in the UK as well as
Opening Ceremony in New York and Colette
in Paris. For stockists, visit twinfactory.co.uk.
CELESTINE COONEY
FASHION STYLIST
46 | AUGUST 2012
PEOPLE
DANNYOREILLY, SINGER
Danny OReilly of The Coronas left
Dublin for London in March to give
his career a kick-start. It was down to
ambition, says Danny, who set up the
band while studying Commerce in UCD.
In Dublin I was in my comfort zone but I
wanted to do more and felt that if I came
to a newcity there was more chance of
making things happen.
Since moving to the city, Danny,
whose mother is the acclaimed singer
Mary Black, has been successfully
writing with dierent people. The
change has denitely been reected
in my writing, he muses. In Ireland
I was a medium-sized sh while here
Im bottom of the ladder. But that just
makes me work harder.
Danny lives in Islington with his
girlfriend, the television presenter
Laura Whitmore. The fact that Laura
was already living here made a big
dierence, he admits, but it feels right
to be living here. And Danny is hoping
that the band, who have just completed
a European tour and recently released
their albumClose to You, will join him
soon. Imtrying to get themto follow
me, he says with a grin, but right now
Implanting the idea rather than asking
them.
When Danny and Laura are not busy
working they like to socialise in their
local gastro pub, The Lord Stanley, grab
a bite to eat in Le Petit Auberge in the
Angel or have a drink in Drink Shop Do,
a teashop by day that transforms at
night into a restaurant and nightclub.
There is so much going on in London,
Danny says. Ive barely been to the
same place twice.
The Coronas will play Bestival in September,
the O2 Dublin in November, and are planning
a major tour of the UK in November;
thecoronas.net
46 | AUGUST 2012
PEOPLE
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
DUBLINS FINEST STEAKHOUSE
Join us on
KILKENNY
48 | AUGUST 2012
It may be 700 years since Dame Alice Kyteler was accused of witchcraft but
her native city certainly casts a spell on visitors especially during the Arts
Festival in August. Pl Conghaile is charmed by both city and county.
Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
Bewitched by
KILKENNY
P
H
O
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O
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R
A
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H
B
Y
A
N
T
H
O
N
Y
W
O
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D
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KILKENNY
50 | AUGUST 2012
W
hat is
Kilkennys
secret?
Tourism is
in trouble.
Economies
are collapsing like card houses.
Te countys hurling team has won
only fve of the last six All-Irelands.
But still Kilkenny sizzles. Standing
on Rose Inn Street, watching
visitors stroll past its old-school
shopfronts, mosey down medieval
laneways, sip drinks beside the
River Nore and fan around its
stoic Anglo-Norman castle, Im
wondering what kind of sorcery is
afoot. Maybe Dame Alice Kyteler
has something to do with it.
Kyteler was a wealthy innkeeper
accused of witchcraft in 1324.
Several of her husbands died in
mysterious circumstances, and all
sorts of claims were made about
covens of witches and cavorting
with demons. She escaped the city,
vanishing to avoid being burned at
the stake although the present-day
owner of Kytelers Inn believes she
still watches over the place.
Is she still in the building?
Absolutely, says Nicky Flynn. She
is very defnitely on the premises.
When things happen, we always
say Its Alice!
Maybe thats the answer. Maybe
the love-lorn Lady Kyteler, as WB
Yeats described her, is still casting
spells. Maybe shes the reason
Kilkenny is packed with punters
on weekends, described by Lonely
Planet as unmissable.
Whatever about witchcraft,
another reason Kilkenny excites
visitors is the fact that it still
looks and feels like a medieval
city. A medieval city with
tight-knit streets, a stunning
castle and cathedral, but also a
knack for braiding a cool 21st-
century cosmopolitanism into
its historic core. One minute,
for example, you could be on
Patrick Street, picking through
rails of vintage clothes on the
fashionably-distressed foorboards
at Shutterbug. Te next, you step
into Rothe House, to fnd a little
boy quizzing a costumed guide as
she leads a tour group around the
Previous pages, like
a prop from Game
of Thrones, Kilkenny
Castle sits at the
centre of the town.
This page, top, the
seat of the Butler
family for 600 years,
the Castle is packed
with history. Above,
vintage clothes at
Shutterbug, and, right,
Kytelers Inn, once
home to Dame Alice.
17th-century merchants house.
Did ye have swimming suits
back then? the boy asks.
Oh, the wonders of the future!
the guide replies.
Te restored Rothe House is not
only home to 2,500 artefacts, but a
walled garden maintained like the
urban original. Teres more time
LOUIS FITZGERALD HOSPITALITY
Temple Bar,
Ph: +353 1 670 8777
www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com
OConnell Bridge
Ph: +353 1 804 9100
www.arlington.ie
Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel 2010
190 bedrooms
21 meetings rooms
Amazing Wedding packages available
Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300
Email: [email protected]
www.louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
JOELS
RESTAURANT
Naas Rd, Dublin 22
Tel: 01 4592968
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins livliest dining venues, with an
extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
AN POITIN
STIL
Rathcoole, Co. Dublin
Tel: 01 4589244
Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky
museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Irelands Most Famous Pubs.
GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 8728658
KEHOES
9 South Anne, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6778312
THE STAGS HEAD
1 Dame Court, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6793687
THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6713922
THE BAGGOT INN
Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6618758
THE QUAYS
Quay Street, Galway
Tel: 091 568347
City Centre Heritage Pubs
Dublin & Galway
www.louisfitzgerald.com
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can
still enjoy some of the original features, high
dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now
complimented with plush leather seats and
dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Situated off Dublins premier shopping street,
Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not
the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it
is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a
museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a
fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the
heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated
in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to
change from gas lighting to electricity. A
favourite haunt for those in the literary world
including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.
Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
Dublin pub.
The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
Temple Bar is one of Dublins liveliest pubs with
a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish
Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a
magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic
and with a restaurant on the first floor.
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and
unique Pour your own Pint experience.
Located in the hub of Dublins business centre,
we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food.
First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check
out the Baggot inn FREE APP.
The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city
and established in the 1600s, it has kept the
charm which gained it an international
reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions.
Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the
'craic' are the order of the day.
THE LOUIS FITZGERALD
HOTEL
Open everyday
11 - 2 am
R. dos Remolares n8/10
1200-371 Lisboa
www.irishpub.com.pt
T: 213421899
Live Music
Sports on
Big Screen
DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.
DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.
DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
98 | AUGUST 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.
GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.
GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.
GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
AUGUST 2012 | 99
News AerLingus
AER LINGUS REGIONALS IRELANDWEST AIRPORT
KNOCK-BIRMINGHAMSERVICE TAKES OFF!
The West of Irelands business and tourismreceived a
welcome boost as Aer Lingus Regionals rst ight from
Ireland West Airport Knock to Birminghamtook to the skies.
Aer Lingus Regional, operated by Aer Arann, will
y once daily from Ireland West Airport Knock to
Birmingham, oering both business and leisure travellers
direct, convenient and cost eective access to Great
Britains second largest city.
Aer Lingus Regional passenger numbers have grown
by over 30% from January to the end of June 2012.
For more information on fares and schedules visit
aerlingus.com.
AER LINGUS INTRODUCES NEWFLEXIBLE
PAYMENT OPTIONS ONAERLINGUS.COM
Giving customers greater exibility when
making travel arrangements.
Price Lock allows customers book
a ight, at the best available price,
and hold for a period of 24 hours,
for a fee of just 5 per passenger,
per one-way ight. The customer
then has 24 hours to complete
the reservation and
conrm their
booking. The 5
fee is deducted
from the nal price.
If the booking is not
conrmed before the expiry
deadline, the booking is cancelled and the
fee forfeited.
Deposit customers now have the
option to pay a 50 per cent deposit when booking
ights to Orlando, Florida on aerlingus.com and pay
the balance at a later time, up to 120 days before
the date of travel.
AER LINGUS LAUNCHES BUMPER WINTER SCHEDULE
Aer Lingus will y to six new destinations this winter with increased
frequencies on a number of ights.
Brand new routes: Dublin to Verona, and Stockholm, and Cork
to Brussels are set to continue right throughout the winter, owing
to their continued popularity. Other exciting destinations on oer
include Copenhagen, Bordeaux and Venice.
Frequencies will be increased on a further eight popular routes
such as Berlin, Vienna and Amsterdam. There will also be extra
ights to Lanzarote and Tenerife which will be music to the ears of
those seeking out a winter sunshine holiday in the Canary Islands.
For more information visit aerlingus.com.
A view of Copenhagen
100 | AUGUST 2012
News
Aer Lingus Scoops frst Place for TopNosh
Aer Lingus was recently voted best airline for its Sky Deli
menu. The airline ranked rst out of 22 European airlines in a
survey carried out by website, inightfeed.com.
Aer Lingus was praised for the variety of healthy
options such as fresh salads and for the selection of cold
and hot meals available, in particular the pasta dishes and
Irish breakfast.
Aer Lingus, Catering Director, Aidan Power said, In
Ireland we have some of the best produce in the world
and the Aer Lingus catering team takes great pride and
enjoyment in using these ingredients in creating excellent
meals. We are delighted to be recognised as providing
healthy and tasty meal choices for our customers.
AerLingus
POSTERS OF IRISH OLYMPIANS ON DISPLAY
A team of over 60 Irish athletes, in 14 sports, travelled to London
at the end of July to represent Ireland at the London 2012 Olympic
games. As proud sponsors of the Irish Olympic Team, Aer Lingus has
a selection of posters of Irish Olympians, on display in several areas
around Dublin and London Heathrow airports. The posters depict
six of the Irish Olympians in action, in their respective disciplines,
wishing the team good luck from all the staff at Aer Lingus. Large
banners of the athletes can be viewed at Aer Lingus check-in T2, with
further posters in the Aer Lingus Gold Circle lounges at Dublin and
Heathrow, along with more images in the boarding areas. Be sure to
look out for them next time you are passing through.
from
a
ll
a
t
A
er Lingus
raCe walKer olive loughnane photographed by trevor hart for CARA magazine, July 2012
G
o
o
d
l
u
c
k
,
O
l
i
v
e
!
from
a
ll
a
t
A
er Lingus
boxer Katie taylor photographed by Jason ClarKe
G
o
o
d
l
u
c
k
,
K
a
t
i
e
! from
all at
Aer Lingus
marathon runner marK Kenneally photographed by trevor hart for CARA magazine, July 2012
G
ood
lu
ck
, M
a
rk
!
from
all at
Aer Lingus
boxer darren oneill photographed by trevor hart for CARA magazine, July 2012
G
ood
lu
ck
,D
a
rren
!
from all at Aer Lingus
Chef de mission sonia osullivan photographed by trevor hart for CARA magazine, July 2012
G
ood
luck, Sonia!
from all at
Aer Lingus
swimmer grinne murphy photographed by trevor hart for CARA magazine, July 2012
Good luck, Grinne!
aer lingus is to move its new york ight operations from
terminal 4 at John f. Kennedy international airport into
Jetblues acclaimed terminal 5, at JfK, in early 2013.
aer lingus ights from dublin and shannon will y into and
out of terminal 5 at JfK.
aer lingus customers connecting to one of Jetblues many
destinations across the us will benet from same terminal
connections, one-stop ticketing and baggage check-in for
travel on both airlines, from the us to europe.
aer lingus customers will enjoy the many unique and
exciting retail oerings, including a duty free store, and
more than two dozen highly regarded dining establishments,
featuring food and drink options that will appeal to a wide
variety of international palates.
with the move to terminal 5, the minimum connection
time from european arrivals to us departures will be
reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers travelling to ireland
will enjoy connections as fast as 40 minutes.
until its relocation in the rst quarter of 2013, aer lingus
will continue to operate from terminal 4, a short ride away on
JfKs free and frequent airtrain service.
for more information on aer lingus and Jetblue
schedules visit aerlingus.com and see map page 114.
Jetblue towelCome aer lingus intoits
terminal, t5, at newyorKs Kennedyairport