Showing posts with label Whirl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Whirl. Show all posts

Nya Mosaic Blanket - Infinity version (FREE crochet pattern)



My mosaic crochet journey began two years ago, when Nya Mosaic Blanket pattern was released. It has become very popular and pictures of hundreds of Nya’s popped up in my social media feeds. In various color combinations. Some creative makers went beyond pattern instructions, and adjusted the chart into a continuous version. I’ve had a plan to write instructions for “infinity” Nya for at least a year now. And finally here it is! Thank you very much for your inspiration and support.

This is a continuous version of Nya baby blanket created by Caroline Hohal (@caroline_crochets). She used one Whirl in shade Jumpin Jelly and a little more than 2 Whirlettes in shade 851 Liquorice.
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com


Anna Nita (@nitkomanka) adapted Nya blanket pattern to make a wrap – this is the same continuous version but with less repeats.
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

And Laura Jackson (@taemombo) took a challenge and decided to create a big blanket using 4 Whirls (2 in same color). It's called "From Sea to Sea". How amazing is it? Her blanket is approx. 115cm x 140cm (45.3” x 55”).
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Laura worked with all four cakes at the same time for one long gradient color change.
Are you inspired to try “infinity” version of Nya mosaic blanket yourself? Please, find instructions below. Enjoy!


And if you would like to have the pattern in one easy-to-print pdf file, you can find it on Ravelry HERE and Esty HERE for a small fee.
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: taemombo


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NYA Infinity Mosaic Blanket PATTERN 


Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

What you’ll need


Yarn in 2 contrasting colors. Whirl and Whirlette by Scheepjes will give the best result.

For baby blanket and wrap: 1 Whirl and 3 Whirlettes
For large blanket: 2 x 2 Whirls (4 in total)

Whirl and Whirlette yarn is available for purchase in your local Scheepjes shop, or via online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with interational shipping)
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (Canada and US), Knotty House* (Canada)

Crochet hook 3.5-3.75mm (E)* or size needed to obtain the best drape.
Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.


Gauge for Whirl: 20 sts and 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”).
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: taemombo

Abbreviations (US terms)


st(s) - stitch(es)
sp(s) - space(s)
ch - chain
yo - yarn over
sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook
mdc (mosaic double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop in front of chains of previous rows, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
[…] - [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated

Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Pattern Notes


  • Nya Infinity Mosaic blanket is worked in rows, back and forth. You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
  • Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So first sc of each row is made in first stitch of previous row.
  • All mdc are made in sts of same color from 2 rows below – always in front of work.
  • Change color on the last yarn over when there are still 2 loops on hook. Don’t cut the yarn but leave it on the side. Yarn is changed after every 2 rows by grabbing up new yarn on the side – you’ll get floats of yarn.
Nya Mosaic Blanket - infinity version. FREE crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    Reading the Chart


    • Chart is read from bottom to top. Each row in chart represents two rows of same color. Rows on the RS (1,2,3, etc.) are read from right to left, and rows on WS (1a, 2a, 3a, etc.) are read back across from left to right. The first square of each row shows which color is used for 2 rows (1-1a, 2-2a, 3-3a, etc.)
    • Each square of the chart shows 1 stitch or 1 skipped stitch. When squares of different colors appear in the row – they should be skipped. So instead of working them – make a number of ch (always 1 ch more than a number of skipped sts – to prevent your work from pulling) and skip needed sts. So for 1 skipped st you will ch2.
    • On next row on RS when you will crochet with different color – you will make mdc in these skipped sts from two rows below. Mdc are always made in front of your work, in front of chains of previous rows, so spaces are always skipped (see pics below).


    • Mdc are only worked on RS. On WS you will only make sc and chains, so can easily finish these rows (1a, 2a 3a, etc.) without following the chart. Please, note that sc are only made in sts of the previous row, and chains are always made over chains.
    Photo credit: taemombo

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    INSTRUCTIONS


    An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are NOT allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

    Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

    Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.



    Pattern repeat is multiple of 12 sts + 3 sts (ch4) to begin.

    For baby blanket: 13 repeats (ch160)
    For wrap: 6 repeats (ch76)
    For large blanket: 19 repeats (ch232)

    Row 1 - RS. With Yarn B. Ch76 (160 or 232), 1sc in second ch from the hook, 1sc in every ch to end, turn.


    Row 1a - WS. Ch1, 1sc in every st to end (change to Yarn A in final st, don’t cut Yarn B), turn.

    Row 2. With Yarn A. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 3sc] repeat to last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 2a. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] repeat until last sp, ch2, skip sp, 1sc in last st. Change to Yarn B in final st (by carrying it up along the side – here and throughout), turn.


    Pattern repeat

    Row 3. With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc] repeat until last st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 3a. Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc, ch2, skip sp, 1sc] repeat until last st, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 4. With Yarn A. Ch1, 2sc, [1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] repeat until last st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 4a. Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] repeat to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.


    Row 5. With Yarn B. Ch1, [3sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc] repeat until last 3 sts, 3sc to end, turn.

    Row 5a. Ch1, 4sc, [ch2, skip sp, 5sc] repeat to end making 4sc instead of last 5 sc (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 6. With Yarn A. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 3sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc] repeat until last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 6a. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] repeat until last sp, ch2, skip sp, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    Row 7. With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc] repeat until last st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 7a. Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc, ch2, skip sp, 1sc* repeat until last st, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 8. With Yarn A. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2 skip 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc] repeat until last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 8a. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] repeat until last sp, ch2, skip sp, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.


    Row 9. With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc, [1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 3sc, 1mdc, ch2 skip 1 st, 2sc] repeat until last sp, 1mdc, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 9a. Ch1, 4sc, [ch2, skip sp, 5sc] repeat to end, making 4sc instead of last 5 sc (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 10. With Yarn A. Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2 skip 1 st, 3sc] repeat to end, turn.

    Row 10a. Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] repeat to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    Row 11. With Yarn B. Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc] repeat until last st, 1sc to end, turn.

    Row 11a. Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc, ch2, skip sp, 1sc] repeat until last st, 1sc to end (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 12. With Yarn A. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc] repeat until last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc in last st, turn.

    Row 12a. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] to end making 1sc instead of last 3 sc (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    Row 13: With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 3sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc] until last st, 1sc to end, turn.

    Row 13a: Ch1, 4sc, [ch2, skip sp, 5sc] to end making 4 sc instead of last 5sc (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.


    Row 14: With Yarn A. Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 3sc] repeat to end, turn.

    Row 14a: Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    Row 15: With Yarn B. Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn.

    Row 15a: Ch1, 2sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc, ch2, skip sp, 1sc] repeat to last st, 1sc to end (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 16: With Yarn A. Ch1, 2sc, 1mdc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] to end making 1sc instead of last mdc, turn.

    Row 16a: Ch1, 3sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    Row 17: With Yarn B. Ch1, 3sc, 1mdc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, 2sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 3sc, 1mdc] to end omitting last mdc, turn.

    Row 17a: Ch1, 4sc, [ch2, skip sp, 5sc] to end making 4sc instead of last 5 sc (change to Yarn A in final st), turn.

    Row 18: With Yarn A. Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip 1 st, 2sc, 1mdc, ch2, skip 1 st, 3sc, ch2, skip 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc] until last 2 sts, ch2, skip 1 st, 1sc to end, turn.

    Row 18a: Ch1, 1sc, [ch2, skip sp, 3sc] to end making 1sc instead of last 3 sc (change to Yarn B in final st), turn.

    End of pattern repeat


    Repeat Rows 3-18a (Pattern Repeat) until your blanket reaches desired length.

    Then repeat rows 3-12a once more.

    Next Row: With Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc, [1mdc, 3sc] repeat till last sp, 1mdc, 1sc, turn.

    Final Row: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end. Fasten off, cut both yarns, weave in ends.



    Ta-daaah! Your Nya Infinity Mosaic Blanket is now finished!!

    Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

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    HULDRA: Build Your Own Sweater



    A year ago I suddenly felt very strong trying my hand in designing crochet garments. I was (and still am) under impression of beautiful round yoked knitting sweaters. I loved the look of intricate colourworks. And I thought it would be so great to create something similar in crochet. Nearly a year ago I got a plan to build up a small collection of seamless top-down crochet sweaters. And Esja sweater was my first design. I am so thankful for your support and trust, and I am blown away with how many Esja’s have popped up in my social media feed. And today I would like to introduce HULDRA!
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    Add HULDRA sweater to your Ravelry Queue

    HULDRA Sweater pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% discount through Monday, February 25th, 2019. The discount was already applied to price and no codes are needed. After this date the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

    Huldra is a top-down seamless sweater with easily adjusted length of the body and sleeves. It was designed as an oversized garment with 10-20cm/4-8” positive ease on the body and fitted sleeves.

    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    Sleeves and the body are finished with cuffs and hem which can be omitted if you would like to keep your sweater simple and with main accent on the textured yoke.
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    Round yoke is crocheted with textured stitches. You will only work with one color at a time, and the technique is not tricky at all. In fact, only usual crochet stitches are used in Huldra sweater. And a heavy photo-tutorial in the end of the pattern will help you to see placement of all stitches.

    Huldra Sweater comes in eight (8!) sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X) with finished bust circumference: 92.5 (101, 109.5, 115.5, 122, 136.8, 149.5, 162) cm/ 36.4 (39.8, 43, 45.5, 48, 54, 58.8, 63.8) in.
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    To choose the right size you should measure your actual bust, add 10-20cm/4-8” (depending on how roomy you want your sweater to be) and choose closest number from listed above.

    I made two samples for myself. One of them is with long sleeves and wide cuffs. I chose Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes in three colors: silver grey, dark grey and black (you can always stay with two colors to keep the patterning less busy). In the pictures below you can see this sweater on me. I normally wear S size, but this sweater is M, and I have lots of space in the lower body.

    Approx. yarn amounts for Our Tribe yarn are:

    ~ Yarn A: Motivate 983 x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
    ~ Yarn B: Trust 982 x 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls
    ~ Yarn C: Blackberry Black 881 x 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) balls

    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    And for my second sleeveless top (LOVE it so much) I picked Ombre Whirl 562 Petrol Please Me and combined it with Whirlette 865 Chewy. Isn’t this gradient lovely?!
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    This top is S size and I have just a little bit of positive ease. I only needed two cakes (one Whirl and one Whirlette) for mine, but for larger sizes you’ll obviously need more yarn.

    Our Tribe, Whirl and Whirlettes are available for purchase in your local Scheepjes stores, or via online retailers:

    Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
    Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
    Taemombo* (CA&US), Knotty House* (CA)
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    For a sleeveless "whirly" version of Huldra yarn estimates are:

    1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) cakes of same Whirl, and
    1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) cakes of same Whirlette.

    Please, note (!!!), that these are just estimates, and if your crochet style and gauge differ, you might need more yarn (for example, you might need 2 Whirlettes for size L).

    Whirlette was used as Yarn A. And for Yarns B and C I used different tails (outside and inside) of the same Whirl.
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    So the yoke was started with Whirlette, then contrasting Whirl was added as Yarn B, and then opposite tail of Whirl was used as Yarn C. If you need 2 cakes of Whirl, you’ll be using them both at the same time, changing between cakes on every round – for one long gradient. And then Whirlette will be used again for the hem.
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    HULDRA sweater pattern was tested in all sizes, and I am sending many thanks to lovely ladies who helped me with polishing instructions. Here are just several examples (check all Huldra projects HERE):
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    1. Loele Van Den Bergh combined dark Whirlette with Our Tribe yarn and made a playful sweater for her beautiful daughter in law
    2. Sandra Veneman chose tone-on-tone colors for her lovely Huldra
    3. Sarah Fabbri was "whirling"
    4. Esther Schippers decided for ¾ sleeves and longer body to turn her sweater into a tunic
    5. Elizabeth Kalka made a summer top with Whirlettes for herself.
    HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

    This blog post contains lots of pictures, and I am very excited about them. My friend Vitali Frozen helped me with photography. And I would like to use this opportunity to thank him. Vitali specializes in wedding and portrait photography, he is currently living in Poland and is travelling around Europe. If you are looking for a photographer, I can highly recommend him. He is professional with a perfect eye, very modest, friendly and easy-going. You can take a peek at his work HERE.

    And just a reminding, that HULDRA Sweater pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% discount through Monday, February 25th, 2019. The discount was already applied to price and no codes are needed. After this date the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

    I am super excited about Huldra, and I hope you like it, too! :)

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    Grinda MAL: Part 5 (English US)



    Welcome to final part of Grinda MAL. Thank you very much for joining me in this journey. So many Grinda shawls have poped up in my social media feeds and groups. I am happy you are having fun. And hope to see even more “Grindas” in the future. Today we are saying good bye to a charming small island and take the boat back to mainland. It’s time to go home…



    Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Translations:

    I am sending many thanks to amazing ladies who helped with translation of Grinda MAL!!

    English (UK)
    An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, shared, republished (online and off-line), redistributed, translated without permission or edited in any way – in part or in a whole. Please, always credit me as a designer. Thank you!

     


    PART 5 – Border 


    Dimensions: the height of the border is approx. 5cm/2”
    Approx. 290-295g of yarn used (extended pattern + border)

    Row 66. Ch4, 1pc in same st, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st, [ch3, skip 2 sts, 1pc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st] till 3 sts left before the corner, ch3, skip 3 sts, 1pc in corner, ch3, skip 3 sts, 1sc in next st, [ch3, skip 2 sts, 1pc in next st, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1sc in next st] till 3 dc left, ch3, skip 2 sts, (1pc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. {43 pc, 43 sc, 1dc, 1ch1-sp and 86 ch3-sps on each side, 1pc in the corner}

    Stitch count after extension: 51 pc, 51 sc, 1dc, 1ch1-sp and 102 ch3-sps on each side, 1pc in the corner.

    Row 67. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch3, 1sc in next pc, ch3, 1dc in next sc] till last sp before corner, ch3, V-st in pc in the corner, [ch3, 1dc in next sc, ch3, 1sc in next pc] till end, ch3, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. {46 dc, 43 sc, 1ch1-sp and 88 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner}

    Row 68. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next sc, ch3, 1sc in next dc, [ch3, 1dc in next sc, ch3, 1sc in next dc] till last ch3-sp before corner, ch3, (1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) in corner, skip next dc, [ch3, 1sc in next dc, ch3, 1dc in next sc] till last 2 dc, ch2, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. {46 dc, 42 sc, 2 ch1-sps and 87 ch3-sps, (1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) in the corner}

    Row 69. Ch4, 1picot, 1dc in same st, ch3, skip next sp+dc+sp, 1sc in next dc, [ch3, (1dc, picot, 1dc) in next dc, ch3, 1sc in next sc] till last ch3-sp before corner, ch3, 1dc in next dc, picot, ch1, (1dc, picot, 1dc) in next st, ch1, picot, 1dc in next st, [ch3, 1sc in next sc, ch3, (1dc, picot, 1dc) in next st] till 3 dc left, ch3, 1sc in next dc, ch3, (1dc, picot, 1dc) in last st. Fasten off. Block shawl to measurements.


    Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

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