Lonely Planet Andalucia

ANDALUCÍA

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Andalucía: The Journey Begins Here

Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

How To: Visit a Winery

The Outdoors

Action Areas

The Guide

Sevilla & Huelva

Sevilla

Beyond Sevilla

Carmona

Beyond Carmona

Constantina & Cazalla

Beyond Constantina & Cazalla

Huelva

Beyond Huelva

Aracena

Beyond Aracena

Parque Nacional de Doñana

Beyond Parque Nacional de Doñana

Cádiz & Gibraltar

Cádiz

Beyond Cádiz

Jerez de la Frontera

Beyond Jerez de la Frontera

Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema

Beyond Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema

Tarifa

Beyond Tarifa

Málaga

Málaga

Beyond Málaga

Ronda

Beyond Ronda

Antequera

Beyond Antequera

Frigiliana

Beyond Frigiliana

Córdoba & Jaén

Córdoba City

Beyond Córdoba City

Sierras Subbéticas

Beyond Sierras Subbéticas

Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas

Beyond Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas

Jaén, Úbeda & Baeza

Beyond Jaén, Úbeda & Baeza

Granada & Almería

Granada

Beyond Granada

Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada

Beyond Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada

Almería

Beyond Almería

Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar

Beyond Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

How To: Hike Andalucía’s Trails

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of Andalucía in 15 Places

Meet the Andalucians

Ugly Questions: The Inquisition & Religious Extremism

Romani Kings & Queens: The Origins of Flamenco

Conservation: Three Protected Species

Federico García Lorca: Evoking Andalucía

This Book

ANDALUCÍA

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Axarquía | Antonio Ciero Reina/Shutterstock ©

Living in a small pueblo blanco (white town) in Axarquía, I’ve come to appreciate the morning and sunset views down the valley all the way to the Mediterranean, the mountains looming right behind my house. I explore them on foot whenever I have free time, and the scenic, winding mountain roads to other remote villages. As a gastronavigator, I have deep respect for the Andalucians’ fierce devotion to their local produce and I love impromptu road trips to the remoter reaches of Huelva, Almería, Córdoba and other provinces because I always make some exciting edible discovery: the world’s first organic caviar producer in a village in Granada, a tiny bar in Córdoba specialising in live and biodynamic wines, a small-scale olive-oil producer in Baeza experimenting with olive beer while tackling the challenges climate change poses to his olive harvest.

Anna Kaminski

@ackaminski

My favourite experience is trekking along the coast in Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Nijar, stopping at remote white-sand coves, then finishing the day with creative seasonal dishes at Asador la Chumbera.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Andalucía

Málaga for me is about contrasts – talking about life with fishermen over espetos, then enjoying a luxurious hammam experience. The beaches provide perfect conditions for swimming, the vibe looking down at the city from the rooftop bars is exquisite and the food has a uniquely local flavour.

Mark Julian Edwards

@markjulianedwards

Mark is a travel and culture journalist and co-author of Faces of Mallorca.

Alex Tihonovs/Shutterstock ©

An old-world mystique still clings to the Sierra de Aracena’s hilly countryside, where castle-topped towns are connected by networks of sylvan footpaths. But when the earth is scraped away at Minas de Riotinto’s open pits, it’s like the hues of the earth belong to some fairy-tale land, rather than this oft-overlooked corner of Andalucía.

Paul Stafford

@paulrstafford

Paul is a journalist and photographer.

Jose Arcos Aguilar/Shutterstock ©

Cazorla Natural Park is dramatic scenery, rugged wilderness, charming, sleepy towns and never-ending views. Burbling rivers for cooling down in summer and snow-covered mountain plains in winter – a year-round nature binge that provides new experiences on every visit.

Rachel Webb

@rachelspaniola

Rachel is an estate agent, travel journalist and long-term resident of northern Andalucía.

m-martinez/GETTY IMAGES ©

BEAUTIFUL BEACHES

Whether you’re looking for a deserted stretch of white sand, a family-friendly beach, lapped at by gentle waves and packed with sun loungers, a secluded pebbled cove to bare all, or a wind-battered stretch of coast for kitesurfing, Andalucía’s Costa de la Luz and Costa del Sol have a beach to suit your needs. While some are accessible via steep paths along precipitous cliffs, others have car parks, beachside restaurants and plentiful other facilities.

Playa San Pedro | h3c7orC/Shutterstock ©

Beach season

The official season is June to September, with lifeguards and beach equipment for rent on busier beaches. However, many are open year-round.

Ralf Liebhold/Shutterstock ©

Parking problems

Parking spots can be hard to find at the most popular beaches during peak season, and some beaches are shuttle access only, so plan accordingly.

Ralf Liebhold/Shutterstock ©

Water gear

Bring your own snorkelling mask and reef booties for visits to remote beaches bookended by cliffs, since there’s often good underwater visibility and no equipment rental.

Best beach experiences

Revel in the remote white-sand Playa San Pedro in Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar, reachable via a precarious clifftop path. 1

Crest turquoise waves on your boogie board or simply lie back and take in the glorious sweep of golden sand at Bolonia’s main beach. 2

Sun your buns, toast your feet on hot pebbles or snorkel in the clear waters at the clothing-optional Playa Cantarriján, near Nerja. 3

Take to the water in a kayak or on a paddleboard in La Herradura’s horseshoe-shaped bay on the Costa Tropical. 4

Munch on grilled catch-of-the-day at a chiringuito and visit the beautiful Sea Life aquarium in Benalmádena Costa. 5

FAB FLAMENCO

Plaintive, duende-inducing laments, fast-paced, urgent bulerías, the staccato rhythm of heels on a wooden stage, the jaleo of handclaps, the acapella martinetes and carceleras – no other music sums up the Andalucian experience better than flamenco, born of hardship in the Roma barrios of Jerez, Sevilla and Cádiz.

Andrea Pistolesi/GETTY IMAGES ©

Tablao or peña?

Choose between seeing flamenco at a tablao (polished, tourist-oriented flamenco show) or a more spontaneous live performance at a peña (club for flamenco aficionados).

Flamenco museums

Immerse yourself in the history of flamenco at the interactive Museo del Baile Flamenco in Sevilla and at the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco in Jerez.

Best Flamenco experiences

Lose yourself at Cádiz’s La Cava – a rustic taverna hosting thrice-weekly tablaos. 1

Ride the vibes with aficionados at the romantically run-down La Perla in Cádiz. 2

Sip sherry from the barrel and see a performance at El Guitarrón in Jerez. 3

Witness a superb performance at Sevilla’s Museo del Baile Flamenco, in the intimate basement space or the courtyard. 4

Attend a top-notch, semi-spontaneous experience at Jerez Centro Cultural Flamenco. 5

MOUNTAIN THRILLS

If mere hiking doesn’t give you enough of a rush, and scaling Andalucía’s highest peaks is insufficiently exciting, get up close and personal with the plunging cliffs, deep gorges bisected by rivers and snow-covered mountains by soaring above them, straining every muscle and sinew by clawing your way up craggy rock faces, and skiing the winter slopes.

Canyoning gear

If you’ve never canyoned before, never fear: canyoning operators provide drysuits, helmets, harnesses and other gear. A reasonable level of fitness is a must, though.

Nature Picture Library/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Skiing into spring

Europe’s southernmost ski resort in the Sierra Nevada is also one of the continent’s highest, and snow often lingers from November well into May.

photoff/Shutterstock ©

Seasonal adventure

Canyoning season is May to September, ideal for escaping the summer heat. Vie ferrate are best tackled from September to May; summers are too hot.

Best Mountain Adventure experiences

Take to the skies in a flight above Sierra de Grazalema with Zero Gravity. 1

Whizz down zip lines and scramble along mountain obstacle courses with Nevadensis in the Sierra Nevada. 2

Abseil down waterfalls and jump into river pools with Sierra Nevada’s Nevadensis or with Horizon in Sierra de Grazalema. 3

Get breathless at the height of 3300m as you fly down the Sierra Nevada’s lofty slopes in a spray of powder. 4

Bring your own climbing gear and tackle dozens of climbing routes near Caminito del Rey or brave El Torcal de Antequera. 5

MOORISH MASTERPIECES

Eight centuries of Moorish rule left an indelible imprint on Andalucía. It’s in the whitewashed houses and palaces clad in colourful tile work, church towers that were once minarets, the tangle of narrow lanes, the fountains that dot city streets, the hillsides terraced for irrigated agriculture, the Arabic-style bathhouses and, of course, in the grand architecture, such as Granada’s Alhambra and Córdoba’s Mezquita that’s testimony to the sophisticated bygone civilisation.

Medina Azahara | ALBA PEREZ ENRIQUEZ/Shutterstock ©

Alhambra tickets

The Alhambra’s incredible popularity means that you need to book your entry weeks in advance; don’t forget timed slot tickets to Palacios Nazaríes.

Takashi Images/Shutterstock ©

Virtual legacy

Before visiting Medina Azahara, tour the site virtually, with headsets that allow you to wander through the (currently off-limits) Salón de Abd ar-Rahman III.

Hans Geel/Shutterstock ©

Sunset views

It’s well worth visiting Almería’s Alcazaba just as the sun dips towards the horizon for particularly atmospheric views of Barrio Almedina and the port beyond.

Best Moorish experiences

Be awestruck by Granada’s Alhambra – the palace-fortress of Nasrid rulers of unparalleled beauty, with graceful Arabic calligraphy carved into palace walls. 1

Admire the intricately carved and adorned ceilings and walls of Sevilla’s Real Alcázar, and check out the underground pool and lush gardens. 2

Get lost amidst the striped arches of Córdoba’s Mezquita and gaze with wonder at the beautifully adorned mihrab inside this mosque/church mélange. 3

Gaze over the battlements of Almería’s Alcazaba at the city below, and wander amid the landscaped terraces and water features. 4

Explore the nooks and crannies of Medina Azahara, the 10th-century palace-city on a hillside near Córdoba, much of which is yet to be uncovered. 5

CONTEMPORARY ART

Andalucía’s largest cities are filled with art. The birthplace of Picasso, Málaga dazzles with museums and gritty street art; Sevilla regularly features superb local talent; Almería showcases cutting-edge photography; while Granada’s streets are daubed with murals by Andalucía’s answer to Banksy.

Soho, Málaga | Pabkov/Shutterstock © murals by D*Face and Obey

QR codes

In art museums, zoom in on QR codes with your smartphone for more detailed information on exhibits in English.

Explore further

Widen your artistic horizons at Málaga’s Centre Pompidou, Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, and Sevilla’s Museo de Bellas Artes.

Best Contemporary Art experiences

Get an overview of Picasso’s creative periods at Málaga’s superb Museo Picasso. 1

Go on a self-guided urban art hunt in Málaga’s Lagunillas district, as well as Soho. 2

Immerse yourself in exhibitions at Almería’s Centro Andaluz de la Fotografía. 3

Admire installations at Sevilla’s Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo. 4

Seek out El Niño’s most famous murals at Lorca’s childhood home in Fuente Vaqueros. 5

GO BELOW

There’s a rich, labyrinthine underworld in Andalucía: shimmering caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites, dark tunnels leading to enormous glittering crystals that you can climb inside, underground rivers flowing steadily in the dark, and spelunking adventures await the intrepid. Above ground, ancient caves showcase millennia-old paintings and other signs of early human habitation.

Advance bookings

Underground caves are accessible via guided tour; book well ahead for the Geoda de Pulpí. Minimum group numbers required for some spelunking adventures.

catalin eremia/Shutterstock ©

Spelunking tips

Dress in clothes you’re prepared never to wear again, as well as comfortable closed-toed shoes. Reasonable levels of fitness a boon; claustrophobia a bane.

UNAI HUIZI PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Watery adventures

Exploring the Sorbas’s Cueva del Agua involves rappelling down sheer walls, hanging in a harness above the abyss and wading through chest-deep cold water.

Best Cave experiences

Tour tunnels glistening with mineral deposits, and climb inside the sparkling cave of Geoda de Pulpí. 1

Look for Neolithic rock paintings inside the Cueva de los Murciélagos near Zuheros and gasp over the fantastic rock formations. 2

Admire the stalactite and stalagmite formations inside the Cuevas de Sorbas, and wriggle through to reach remoter galleries. 3

See extraordinary rock formations at the Cueva de Nerja, with a cathedral-like interior shaped by water five million years ago. 4

Be greeted by millennia-old figures and other anthropomorphic shapes at Cueva de los Letreros. 5

FROM GRAPE TO GLASS

Though Andalucía is the oldest wine-producing region in Spain, most of its wines are not as well known as those from Spain’s north. More’s the pity; the varied, rugged terrain is responsible for a huge variety of tipples, many by small producers. Whether you’re a sherry aficionado, a lover of dessert wines, someone who enjoys trying interesting blends from varietals grown at high altitude, or an oenophile with a passion for live wines, you’ll find them here.

Bodegas Alvear | Education Images/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wine tasting

Many wine and sherry bodegas offer tastings of multiple wines; some offer food pairings. Book ahead, particularly for non-Spanish-language visits.

Fernando Camino/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bodega tours

While it’s possible to arrange tours of the wine-making facilities at many bodegas, it’s easiest in the Sherry Triangle, Montilla-Moriles and vineyards around Ronda.

Geography Photos/Universal Images Group via Getty ImageS ©

Buying wine

You needn’t drift into insolvency in your quest for the perfect bottle: decades-old sherries, rare live rosés and robust Granada reds cater to all budgets.

Best Viticultural experiences

Investigate the sustainable Bodega Anchurón on the Altiplano near Guadix, powered by renewable energy and producing high-altitude, single-origin reds. 1

Pair extra-aged sherries at Bodegas Tradicíon in Jerez with a visit to its private 14th- to 19th-century Spanish art collection with paintings by Great Masters. 2

Tour the characterful 1792 Bodegas Hidalgo–La Gitana in Sanlúcar and taste its superlative manzanilla and VORS sherries on the vine-draped patio. 3

Marvel at Montilla’s Bodegas Alvear (one of Spain’s oldest), tour the premises and sample the treacle-sweet PX dessert wine, alongside other fortified vintages. 4

Sip Cartojal and aged dessert wines at the 19th-century Bodegas Málaga Virgen. 5

HAPPY TRAILS

Long-distance trails through craggy mountains throw down a gauntlet to experienced trekkers, while less demanding day hikes connect villages along centuries-old paths and clifftop trails lead you to remote beaches. Whether you’re looking to summit mainland Spain’s tallest peak or simply wander down to a secluded stretch of sand, Andalucía delivers.

Sierra de Aracena | joserpizarro/Shutterstock ©

Maps and apps

If embarking on a hike, equip yourself with a decent map of the area by Editorial Alpina. Gaia GPS is a hugely useful mapping app.

Hiking season

May, June, September and October are best, weather-wise. July and August are ideal for the high Sierra Nevada but unbearably hot elsewhere; fire risk abounds.

Best Hiking experiences

Scale Mulhacén – Spain’s highest peak – in the rugged Parque Nacional Sierra Nevada. 1

Find your own slice of beach paradise during clifftop jaunts in the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar. 2

Summit El Torreón for Morocco views in Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema. 3

Wander through valleys between timeless villages in the Sierra de Aracena. 4

Follow a river to its source and scramble to mountain passes in Parque Natural Cazorla. 5

LEATHER, MARBLE & WOOL

Moorish-style vases produced using age-old clay-working and glazing techniques, marble chiselled into elaborate sculpture, woollen ponchos woven on looms… Andalucía’s artisan tradition stretches back for centuries. Some villages are known for one craft, while others have workshops used by multiple generations of the same family. Purchasing from the artisans helps keep Andalucía’s artistic heritage alive.

Artisans at work

Many village artisans are happy to be observed while they work with their material of choice. Items are usually available for purchase in the workshop/shop.

Elena Fernandez 2929/Shutterstock ©

Esparto grass

The tradition of weaving footwear, containers and decorative items from esparto grass has remainsed virtually unchanged since Neolithic times and is currently enjoying a revival.

Jose y yo Estudio/Shutterstock ©

Moorish ceramics

Hispano-Moresque ware is Islamic-style pottery dating back to Andalucía’s Al-Andalus era, with blue and gold dominating, as well as white tin-glaze and metallic lusterware techniques.

Best Craft experiences

Marvel over unique Moorish-era Guadamecí leather art by José Carlos Villarejo García in Córdoba’s Casa-Museo del Guadamecí Omeya. 1

Grab a woven woollen scarf at Artesanía Textil in Grazalema, or pick up a durable blanket or two. 2

Shop for abstract marble sculpture or find some utilitarian kitchenware at Artesanía Muro in Macael. 3

Admire blue-glazed ceramics produced using surviving Moorish-era kilns at Úbeda’s Museo de Alfarería Paco Tito. 4

Decorate your home with a woven bull’s head or shop with your sustainably produced esparto hold-all from Ubedies Artesanía. 5

REMARKABLE ROMAN RELICS

Italy aside, few European countries can lay claim to such a vast wealth of remains of the Roman civilisation. Baetica to its conquerors, Andalucía was one of the most affluent parts of the Roman Empire, and the well-preserved Roman amphitheatres, baths, temples, mosaics, villas and towns are testimony to that. Many are found in spectacular locations, set against the backdrop of the ocean or mountains, which only adds to their millennia-old appeal.

Teatro Romano | Alvaro German Vilela/Shutterstock ©

Theatre performances

Summer performances at the reconstructed Baelo Claudia Roman amphitheatre are incredibly popular, so make sure you get your tickets well ahead of time.

Mystic Stock Photography/Shutterstock ©

Footwear

The remoter Roman sights are accessed via uneven paths, and some require extensive walking, so make sure you wear comfortable footwear.

Atapialopez28/Shutterstock ©

Shadeless sights

Consider the time of year when visiting; in July and August, remnants of Roman towns provide no shade and are mercilessly hot; bring ample drinking water and a hat.

Best Roman experiences

Marvel at Cádiz’s sensitively reconstructed Teatro Romano – the largest in Spain at the time, with room for 10,000 spectators. 1

Duck inland from the Costa de la Luz to the whitewashed Medina Sidonia to appreciate the town’s well-preserved Roman road and underground sewers. 2

Follow an ancient Roman stone path from Benaocaz to the remains of the Roman town of Ocuri, in the Sierra de Crazalema. 3

Wander through the forum, and past the aqueduct, temples, basilica and garum tanks of Baelo Claudia, the prosperous city by the sea in Bolonia. 4

Peruse the quirky mosaics in the villa remnants in Sevilla’s Roman settlement of Itálica, as well as its vast amphitheatre. 5

RENAISSANCE AND GOTHIC MONUMENTS