Lonely Planet Wales

Wales

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Wales

Wales’ Top Experiences

Need to Know

Accommodation

Month by Month

Itineraries

The Great Outdoors

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

CARDIFF

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Vale of Glamorgan

Penarth

Barry (Y Barri)

BRECON BEACONS & SOUTHEAST WALES

Brecon Beacons National Park

Abergavenny

Black Mountains

Hay-on-Wye

Talgarth

Crickhowell

Llangorse Lake

Talybont-on-Usk

Llanfrynach

Brecon

Western Brecon Beacons & Black Mountain

Monmouthshire & Southeast Wales

Chepstow

Lower Wye Valley

Monmouth

Caerleon

South Wales Valleys

Merthyr Tydfil

Blaenavon

Caerphilly

SWANSEA, GOWER & CARMARTHEN-SHIRE

Swansea

The Mumbles

Gower Peninsula

Parkmill & Around

Oxwich Bay

Port Eynon

Rhossili

Llangennith

Reynoldston

Llanmadoc

Carmarthenshire

Kidwelly

Carmarthen

Laugharne

Llanarthne

Llandeilo

Llandovery

Pumsaint

Newcastle Emlyn & Around

ST DAVIDS & PEMBROKESHIRE

North Pembrokeshire

St Davids

Solva

Porthgain

Fishguard

Cwm Gwaun

Newport

Preseli Hills

St Dogmaels

South Pembrokeshire

Saundersfoot

Tenby

Manorbier

Stackpole

Angle

Pembroke

Narberth

Haverfordwest

Skomer, Skokholm & Grassholm Islands

Little & Broad Haven

Newgale

Marloes Sands

MID-WALES

Ceredigion

Cardigan

Aberporth & Around

New Quay

Aberaeron

Tregaron

Aberystwyth

Around Aberystwyth

Powys

Machynlleth

Corris

Rhayader

Elan Valley

Llanwrtyd Wells

Builth Wells

Llandrindod Wells

Presteigne

Knighton

Newtown

Montgomery

Berriew

Welshpool

SNOWDONIA & THE LLŷN

North Wales Borderlands

Ruthin

Llangollen

Snowdonia National Park

Bala

Dolgellau

Cader Idris

Tywyn

Barmouth

Harlech

Blaenau Ffestiniog

Penmachno

Betws-y-Coed

Capel Curig

Ogwen Valley

Llanberis

Snowdon

Beddgelert

Porthmadog

Llŷn Peninsula

Criccieth

Pwllheli

Abersoch

Aberdaron

Bardsey Island

Nant Gwrtheyrn

ANGLESEY & THE NORTH COAST

The North Coast

Caernarfon

Bangor

Conwy

Llandudno

Isle of Anglesey

Menai Bridge

Southwest Anglesey

Beaumaris

Moelfre

Church Bay

Holyhead

Rhosneigr

UNDERSTAND

History

Culture

The Welsh Table

The Natural Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Climate

Electricity

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Taxi

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

The economic and social impacts of COVID-19 (coronavirus) will continue to be felt long after the virus has been contained. Many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide will have experienced restrictions leading to loss of customers, income and employees; some will unfortunately have closed their doors permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Why I Love Wales

Wales stole my heart for good four years ago when I moved to a lonely valley north of the Brecon Beacons, where the moors meet the mountains and the meadows glisten green. The screech of red kites are my wake-up call, a hundred bleating sheep lull me to sleep and the skies are some of the country’s starriest. Wales is so darned beautiful that you can forgive it the relentless rain. For such a small country, it has an almost obscene amount of wilderness, not to mention ravishing beaches, a one-of-a-kind culture and epoch-defining history.

Tryfan, Ogwen Valley | JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Kerry Walker, Writer

twitterpng twitter @kerryawalker instagram undiscoveredwal

For more see, Our Writers

Wales’ Top Experiences

1MOUNTAINS OF MYTH

Soon after crossing the English–Welsh border, the Brecon Beacons (pictured above) raise their mighty fins in welcome. Further north in Snowdonia National Park things get wilder and more mountainous still, with gnarly peaks to climb. Choose a clear day for a ramble and enjoy views that will set your spirits soaring higher than the country’s red kites. Or for more of a challenge, join fell runners to sprint to the Snowdon summit.

JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Snowdon

You won’t hike alone, but don’t let that deter you from clambering up Snowdon, Wales’ loftiest peak at 1085m. On cloud-free days you’ll be flabbergasted by out-of-this-world views, which reach over ridge and shimmering lake to Ireland’s shores.

MICHAEL ROBERTS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Pen-y-Fan

Lifting above the Brecon Beacons like a mighty sail, this bald, dramatic, 886m-high mountain sends out a siren call to peak baggers. Puff to the top or, even better, hook onto the horseshoe walk to tick off four summits.

MATT GIBSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cader Idris

Crowning the horizon in the south of Snowdonia, this incredible hulk of a mountain takes its name from Idris (a legendary giant). The views from the rocky summit are top-of-the-beanstalk stuff, with glacial lake Llyn Cau glimmering far below.

SOSN-A/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2COASTAL PATHS

Over stile and through kissing gate, past ivy-draped wood and waterfall, through fishing village and seaside town – the coastal footpath rimming western Wales is spirit-liftingly beautiful. Taking in the entire swoop of the country’s coastline, the 870-mile Wales Coast Path rambles from hidden bays to countless miles of dune-backed sands. In spring and summer, everything bursts into flower and wildlife peaks.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

This 186-mile coastal path is an absolute beauty, revealing the coast’s most off-the-radar nooks and crannies, from secluded coves to seal-basked rocks, surf-lashed beaches and stone circles.

MICHAEL ROBERTS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Anglesey Coast Path

Little is more satisfying than hiking around an entire island. This 140-mile circular walk (pictured) takes in brooding sea views, lighthouses, medieval castles, puffins, beaches and more.

JAMES WHITLOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Llŷn Coastal Path

Where Wales slings its northwestern hook into the wild Irish Sea, the Llŷn Peninsula makes for profound walking. This 110-mile trail (pictured) opens up surreally lovely coastscapes.

ALANMORRIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3CASTLE COUNTRY

No country on Earth has more castles than Wales. From romantic, crumbling, ivy-strangled ruins astride lonely hilltops to World Heritage medieval fortresses, you are never far from the next castell. Wherever you are heading, these fortifications lift the gaze and their turbulent histories fire the imagination.

Caerphilly

High, mighty, moated and medieval, this whopping great castle looks freshly minted for a fairy tale with its riot of turrets and towers.

JAX10289/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Caernarfon

Part of Edward I’s ‘iron ring’ of castles – now forming a Unesco World Heritage Site – this formidable medieval fortress is possibly the fairest of them all.

PAYPAL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Carreg Cennen

‘Wow’ is the word that leaps to the lips when you first clock this dramatically positioned fortress, guarding a lonely stretch of Brecon Beacons National Park.

RICHARD WHITCOMBE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4FOOD AT THE SOURCE

One of the true joys of Wales is tasting sensational local produce at the source. Snowdonia’s pungent cheddars, sublimely fresh Pembrokeshire seafood and Brecon’s venison is just tip-of-the-iceberg stuff. Nowadays you’ll find everything from craft breweries and small-scale gin and whisky distilleries to coffee roasteries in former coal-mining towns and wine in vineyards oblivious to a bit of rain in this food- and drink-mad land.

HANS GEEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Coaltown Coffee

Paying tribute to South Wales’ coal mining past, this small-batch, sustainability-focused roastery and cafe has given Ammanford seriously good coffee and an air of newfound cool.

Lobster and Môr

Picnic on the beach in Little Haven? Stop by this Pembrokeshire deli-cafe for a brioche stuffed with boat-fresh lobster, crab sandwiches, seaweed-infused ales and local cheeses.

Black Mountains Smokery

In the foothills of the Black Mountains, this place gently smokes salmon, chicken, duck, quail, trout and haddock over Welsh oak. For more insight, join a smokery tour.

Top Experiences

5INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE

To tap into Wales’ soul, dig deep into its enthralling industrial heritage. Many former coal and slate mines and ironworks, once the backbone of the country’s industry, have been born again as insightful attractions and pulse-racing activities. These skip from underground tours in mining shafts to heritage parks, museums, and even subterranean trampolines.

Blaenavon

Get a taster of what coal-mining life was really like with guides who once worked the black seam at Big Pit (pictured) and explore the well-preserved ironworks of this Unesco World Heritage Site.

INTREEGUE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

National Slate Museum

At the foot of Snowdon, the austere cliffs of Llanberis’ former slate quarry set the scene for this engrossing museum (pictured), zooming in on slate mining in Victorian times.

CROWN COPYRIGHT (2021) VISIT WALES ©

Blaenau Ffestiniog

Blaenau once put a roof over Britain’s head with its booming 19th-century slate industry. Now you can visit a slate mine and bounce on giant trampolines in cathedral-sized caverns.

Zip World Slate Caverns | GAIL JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6EPIC ROAD TRIPS

Where will that lonely single-track lane take you? Wales is braided with narrow back lanes that thrust you straight into the heart of the most phenomenal mountain, moorland or coastal scenery. Get behind the wheel for a gear-crunching, sheep-dodging, stop-the-car-and-grab-the-camera road trip to remember.

Coastal Way

One of three national driving routes, the 180-mile Coastal Way loops around Cardigan Bay to sublime beaches, wildlife-rich islands, prehistoric hill forts and wave-hammered headlands.

Gospel Pass

Crunch gears as you drive through the off-the-radar Vale of Ewyas in the Black Mountains (pictured), over brutally wild, windswept moorland to the 549m Gospel Pass, Wales’ highest road.

ABRIENDOMUNDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Abergwesyn Pass

Twenty miles seems like nothing on paper, but you’ll want to go slowly on this drive from Llanwrtyd Wells to Tregaron, which thrusts you into some of the starkest moors and mountains in the Cambrian Mountains.

River Irfon, Abergwesyn Pass | FATMANPHOTOUK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

7BEACH-HOPPING

Cornwall gets the hype when it comes to Britain’s best beaches, but – trust us – Wales is every bit as ravishing, albeit with just a trickle of the visitors. We’re talking childhood fantasy stuff: from deliciously hidden, cliff-rimmed coves and surf-battered bays in Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion, to Snowdonia’s wild, broad beaches of butterscotch sand and the Gower’s rolling dunes and soul-stirring views.

Porthor

Remote and gorgeous, this arc of pale sand on the north coast (pictured) of the Llŷn Peninsula has sands that ‘whistle’ underfoot. Keep a close lookout for seals, dolphins and porpoises offshore.

NEALE CLARK/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES ©

Rhossili

So precious it is guarded by a dragon, this three-mile curve of golden sand on the Gower is ravishing. Tiptoe across dunes to the shipwrecked remains of the Helvetica.

JOHNNY GREIG/GETTY IMAGES ©

Barafundle Bay

Like all of the most enchanting beaches, Pembrokeshire’s Barafundle (pictured) can only be reached on foot. Head over the clifftop and down steps to this crescent of cliff-backed, straw-coloured sand.

FULCANELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

8RURAL PUBS

Cornerstones of the community, Wales’ pubs charm with history creaking from timber beams, real ales, hearty grub and stories aplenty. From the boozers that inspired poet Dylan Thomas’ pen in Swansea; to old coaching inns in the Brecons, where thirsty drovers once hung out; and Snowdonia’s stone-walled taverns, which round out a bracing hike perfectly – there’s a pint with your name on it.

4 SEASON BACKPACKING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Skirrid Mountain Inn

With its sagging beams and inglenook fireplace, this medieval dream of a 900-year-old tavern in the Black Mountains claims to be Wales’ oldest and most haunted boozer.

Sloop Inn

A salty seadog of a Pembrokeshire tavern full of timber beams, nautical knick-knacks and coastal character. Going strong since 1743, it’s a cracking spot for a pint and fish supper.

Pen-y-Gwryd

The stuff of mountain legend as the 1953 Everest training base, this pretty Georgian coaching inn at Snowdon’s foot is a cracking choice for Welsh ales, hearty food and banter.

Top Experiences

9NATURAL WONDERS

Vast, lonely moors; great rivers and forests; peaks and valleys; and lakes, beaches and islands are all wrapped up in this one tiny country. In amongst them are natural wonders that enchant: from gorges, waterfalls, lagoons and rock stacks to moss-draped woodlands of sprite-like fantasy.

Ystradfellte

Wander through ivy-draped, fern-brushed forest that looks like a figment of Tolkien’s imagination to four waterfalls, including the wispy Sgwd-yr-Eira (Waterfall of the Snow), which you can walk behind.

RICHARD WHITCOMBE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Blue Lagoon

Wild swimmers and cliff divers are in their element at this surreally turquoise blue lagoon in a sheer-sided flooded quarry in Abereiddi, just north of St Davids.

HELEN HOTSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fairy Glen

Sprites are said to inhabit the Fairy Glen, deep in Snowdonia’s rugged heart. The River Conwy tumbles in rapids and falls through this narrow, sheer, thickly wooded dingle on the fringes of Betws-y-Coed.

PANDA296/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

10 ROMANCING THE STONES

Wales lives and breathes history. Exploring the hills and coast, Iron Age hill forts cresting summits are two a penny. Head off on a hike across a lonely moor and you’ll find stone circles, standing stones and dolmens that bear silent witness to the mysteries of the past. Upping the romance are abbey ruins that have captivated poets and painters for centuries.

Tintern Abbey

Rising romantically above the River Wye, the evocative ruins of this former Cistercian abbey (pictured), exposed to the sky, inspired poet Wordsworth’s pen and artist Turner’s paintbrush.

CHARLES BOWMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pentre Ifan

Tucked away in the silent Pembrokeshire hinterland, this is Wales’ largest megalithic tomb (pictured), made of the same bluestone that was used for the menhirs of Stonehenge.

STUARTH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Preseli Hills

Pembrokeshire’s brooding Preseli Hills hide Wales’ greatest stash of hill forts, standing stones, cairns and burial chambers. Hike the Golden Road track to get well and truly stoned…

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Pound, also called ‘pound sterling’ (£)

Language

English, Welsh

Visas

Not required for most citizens of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA.

Money

ATMs are widely available. Major credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard are accepted in most but not all hotels and restaurants.

Mobile Phones

The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which is compatible with most of the world except the Americas. However many new phones have a multiband function that will allow them to work anywhere; check before leaving home.

Time

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)

When to Go

High Season (Jul & Aug)

A Weather is at its warmest; lots of festivals and events.

A Accommodation prices increase in coastal areas and national parks, but not in cities.

A The absolute peak is the August school holidays.

Shoulder (Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct)

A The season doesn’t kick off until Easter, which can be in March or April.

A Prices rise to peak levels on bank holidays.

A April to June are the driest months; October is one of the wettest.

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

A Prices rise to peak levels over Christmas and New Year.

A Snow can close roads, particularly in the mountains.

A January and February are the coldest months.

Useful Websites

Visit Wales (www.visitwales.com) Official resource for tourist information.

BBC Wales (www.bbc.co.uk/wales) The national broadcaster’s portal on Wales.

WalesOnline (www.walesonline.co.uk) News and views concerning Welsh life.

Traveline Cymru (www.traveline.cymru) Essential public transport information.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/wales) Destination information, hotel bookings and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than £50

A Dorm bed: £14–23

A Cheap meal in a cafe or pub: £3–10

A Bus ticket (less than 100 miles): up to £18

Midrange: £50–120

A Double room in a hotel/B&B: £65–130

A Main course in a midrange restaurant: £10–20

A Castle admission: £4–11

A Car rental: per day from £30

Top end: More than £120

A Luxury hotel or boutique B&B room: from £130

A Three-course meal in a top restaurant: £20–50

A Theatre ticket: £10–50

Opening Hours

Opening hours tend to be fairly standard throughout the year, except at venues with an outdoor component (castles, gardens, beach cafes etc), which close earlier in winter.

Banks 9.30am–5pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am–1pm Saturday

Post offices 9am–5pm Monday to Friday, 9am-12.30pm Saturday

Cafes 9am–5pm Monday to Saturday, 11am–4pm Sunday

Restaurants noon–2pm and 6–10pm; often closed Sunday evening and Monday

Pubs 11am–11pm

Shops 9am–6pm Monday to Saturday, 11am–4pm Sunday

Arriving in Wales

London Heathrow Airport Has National Express coaches to Newport (from £26, three hours), Cardiff (from £14, 3½ hours) and Swansea (from £21, 5½ hours). For train connections, catch the Heathrow Express to Paddington Station.

Cardiff Airport The T9 Cardiff Airport Express bus (£5, 44 minutes, every 20 minutes) heads between the airport and Cardiff Bay via the city centre, although this was currently suspended due to Covid-19. The 304 Cardiff-Llantwit Major service (£2.65, one hour, hourly) stops at the airport too.

Holyhead Ferry Terminal Trains head to Rhosneigr (£4.40, 10 minutes), Bangor (£9.50, 30 minutes) and Conwy (£15, one to 1¼ hours).

Fishguard Harbour Trains head to Swansea (£17.30, two hours) and Cardiff (£28.20, 2½ hours).

Getting Around

Car Driving will get you to remote corners of Wales not connected to public transport. Cars can be hired from the main cities and the airports.

Bus The most useful form of public transport, with routes connecting most towns and villages. Many services don’t run on Sunday. National Express coaches only stop in major destinations.

Train The network isn’t extensive, but it’s handy for those towns connected to it. Trains are comfortable and reliable, but more expensive than the buses.

For much more on Getting Around

Accommodation