Lonely Planet Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared for Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara

Where to Stay in South Bali

How to Navigate Bali’s Traffic

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

The Guide

Canggu & Southwest Beaches

Canggu

Beyond Canggu

Seminyak

Beyond Seminyak

Kuta

Beyond Kuta

South Bali & the Islands

Sanur

Beyond Sanur

Uluwatu

Beyond Uluwatu

Nusa Lembongan

Beyond Nusa Lembongan

Ubud Region

Ubud

Beyond Ubud (North)

Beyond Ubud (South)

East Bali

Klungkung

Beyond Klungkung

Padang Bai

Beyond Padang Bai

Amlapura

Beyond Amlapura

Central Mountains

Munduk

Beyond Munduk

North Bali

Lovina

Beyond Lovina

Permuteran

Beyond Permuteran

West Bali

Tabanan

Beyond Tabanan

Lombok

Kuta

Beyond Kuta

Senggigi

Mataram

Senaru

Beyond Senaru

Southwestern Peninsula & the Secret Gilis

Gili Islands

Gili Trawangan

Gili Meno

Gili Air

Nusa Tenggara

Flores

Beyond Flores

West Timor

Beyond West Timor

Sumba

Nusa Tenggara Islands

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

How to Hire a Car & Driver

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

How to Travel Sefely by Boat

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Bali’s Temple Architecture

Women Travellers

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara in 15 Places

Meet the Balinese

An Island of Demons: The Dark Side of Bali

Ikat Textiles

Nusa Tenggara’s Minority Cultures

Bali’s Subak System

This Book

BALI, LOMBOK & NUSA TENGGARA

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Snorkelling, Gili Trawangan | Dudarev Mikhail/shutterstock ©

In 1993, I visited Bali and Lombok for the first time. When I went through immigration at Bali’s then tiny airport, the officer glanced at my passport and said in the sweetest voice possible: ‘Have a wonderful birthday on Bali.’ Who wouldn’t fall in love? Since then, I’ve lived in Bali at various times in my life, and I’ve travelled across all of Nusa Tenggara, where the diversity of places, people and, yes, beaches is astonishing.

In Bali, much is made of the extreme rate of change. But this vibrancy and dynamism is part of its allure. Yes, many of these places have changed greatly, but their essence still evokes love.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes

@ryanverberkmoes

Ryan has travelled the world for his writing, which comprises over 150 guidebooks.

My favourite experience is sunset on the beach at Pemuteran as the kids play pick-up football in the sand, and residents and visitors mingle and stroll the shore together.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara.

Anges van der Logt/shutterstock ©

Sumba is beguiling. There’s surfing, laid-back Waingapu and Tambolaka, ikat textiles in Nusa Tenggara, jungle hikes to pristine waterfalls, and villages with their welcoming residents. You may witness an animal sacrifice, watch a traditional roof getting repaired, or chew the fat (and some betel nut) with the village priest.

Anna Kaminski

@anna.cohen.kaminski

Anna is a writer who covers travel, culture and cuisine.

fenkieandreas/shutterstock ©

Lombok’s Southwestern Peninsula is home to the ‘Secret Gilis’, a relatively undiscovered chain of tiny islands that is sleepy in the best way possible. Glide from one tiny jewel of an island to the next while peering through glassy waters to an impressive labyrinth of coral, where fish easily outnumber people.

Sarah Lempa

@travelempa

Sarah writes about travel, psychology and a list of things in between.

Iryna Horbachova/shutterstock ©

The sacred rainforest at Danau Tamblingan is a part of Bali that has remained unchanged for centuries. There are nettle and ficus trees that have stood watch over this intricate ecosystem for more than 600 years. The forest is protected and it’s reassuring to know that however much Bali changes, this will remain.

Narina Exelby

@narina.exelby

Narina is a writer based between South Africa and Indonesia.

BEACHY DELIGHTS

Indonesia’s 17,000+ islands are blessed with countless beaches. Many of the very best can be found on Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara. The huge swathe of Kuta Beach was the original lure for tourists to Bali. Since then, generations of travellers have discovered the endless diversity of beaches throughout the region. Pick your allure: buzzing parties or secluded isolation; mellow waves or pounding surf; gleaming white sand or elegant black. There’s one for every whim.

Dreamy Sunsets

Any beach with a view west will likely enjoy one of Indonesia’s famous technicolour sunsets; residents and visitors alike gather for the show.

Dima Photographer/shutterstock ©

Drink Up

At all but the most remote beaches, you’ll likely find at least one drinks vendor nearby with an icy Bintang. Simple cafes are also common.

Oen Michael/shutterstock ©

Not Hanging Out

Whether you’re on Bali, the Gilis, Sumbawa or anyplace else, nude and topless sunbathing are offensive to residents. And remember to cover up away from the sand.

Gili Meno | lemaret pierrick/shutterstock ©

BEST BEACHY EXPERIENCES

Feel the energy of 1 Kuta Beach – the original magnet for visitors – that runs to Seminyak and beyond.

Descend 130 steps to isolated 2 Thomas Beach, the secluded pocket of white sand on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula.

Follow the ring of powdery sand around the coast of 3 Gili Air and try to decide on your favourite spot.

Shade your eyes at 4 Pantai Mawun, a gleaming crescent of white sand flanked by rolling hills that’s only 20 minutes from Lombok’s Kuta.

Luxuriate on the dreamy sweeps of pastel sand that are the pink beaches of 5 Pulau Padar, the small island that’s part of Komodo National Park.

MAGNIFICENT NATURE

From bewildering cliffs and cerulean seas to astounding peaks and dizzying terraces of jade, the natural beauty of Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara knows no bounds. Witness gorgeous vistas, feel the cool mist of jungle waterfalls, amble through famed rice fields or leap out of your comfort zone and climb an active volcano.

Rice fields, Sidemen | javarman/shutterstock ©

Climb Every Volcano

Active volcanoes can be found on most major islands. Imposing icons such as Bali’s Gunung Agung and Lombok’s Gunung Rinjani are legendary and challenging climbs.

Discover Waterfalls

Waterfalls lace the mountains, their thundering white streaks plunging to green rainforests. In Bali, local communities have recently permitted access to previously hidden wonders.

BEST NATURE EXPERIENCES

Find new words for green when strolling the rice fields of 1 Sidemen, the serene escape of east Bali.

At the base of Danau Tamblingan, trek through the ancient, sacred 2 rainforest.

Gaze upon Lombok’s picture-perfect 3 Selong Belanak bay, framed by rolling hills.

Witness the impossibly beautiful 4 Gunung Kelimutu volcano in Flores – with three different-coloured lakes.

Hike through jungle to 5 Air Terjun Wai Marang in Sumba, with a pristine swimming hole.

FLORA & FAUNA

Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara boast an array of creatures, from primeval dragons to one of the world’s rarest birds. Off the coasts, the waters teem with myriad species, from small fish to leaping dolphins. Nesting on beaches, sea turtles bridge these worlds. And take time to smell the flowers, which grow everywhere in profusion.

Rich Waters

A rich variety of coral, seaweed, fish and other marine life thrive off the islands, and all of Indonesia is a manta-ray sanctuary.

sergemi/shutterstock ©

Travelling Turtles

One hawksbill turtle that visited Bali was tracked the following year. He travelled to Java, Kalimantan, Australia (Perth and much of Queensland!), and then back to Bali.

Georgette Douwma/getty images ©

Mind Your Banana

Troupes of chattering, frolicking (and, yes, thieving) monkeys are found everywhere, from Bali temples to remote bends in the road deep in Nusa Tenggara.

BEST FLORA & FAUNA EXPERIENCES

Spot the rare Bali starling – an iconic white bird with black accents and a distinctive bright-blue mask – in 1 West Bali National Park.

In the central mountains, wander the vast 2 Bali Botanic Garden, which celebrates the islands’ 2400 floral species.

Traverse the trails leading to Lombok’s 3 Gunung Rinjani, and you’ll spot the dozens of species that enliven the rainforest.

Stay alert for dolphins frolicking in the wake of your boat on a tour of 4 Lovina.

Don’t get bit by the world’s largest lizard, and the star of 5 Komodo National Park.

SACRED CULTURE

Bali’s creative heritage is everywhere, and it is deeply tied to the culture and Hindu faith. Temples, or pura, are the epicentre of spiritual activity, featuring dance and musical performances that are the result of an ever-evolving culture with a centuries-long legacy. Precise choreography and discipline are hallmarks of the beautiful, captivating and ethereal Balinese dance. Balinese music is played by an ensemble called a gamelan, who create unforgettable melodies on various bamboo and bronze instruments.

Thousands of Temples

With over 10,000 temples (or possibly double that – they’re hard to count), Bali has a variety that makes them difficult to categorise. (Pictured: Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.)

platongkoh/getty images ©

Bali’s Daily Processions

The peal of the gamelan will halt traffic for a temple procession, that disappears as suddenly as it appeared, leaving only a trail of hibiscus petals in its wake.

Stephane Victor/Lonely Planet ©

Mesmerising Music & Dance

Balinese dance features mystical music, dancers with hypnotic grace and chants that tell stories rich with the essence of Hindu beliefs and lore.

Balinese legong dancer | Katiekk/Shutterstock ©

BEST CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

See nightly Balinese 1 dance performances in a variety of styles in over half a dozen venues in Ubud.

Head to the ancient village of 2 Boti on West Timor for ikat-weaving, traditional dance and royal rituals.

Learn the story of Nyepi at the 3 Saka Museumin Jimbaran, with displays of extraordinary Ogoh Ogoh – huge, cartoonish figurines crafted for Nyepi.

Catch the worm at Lombok’s 4 Bau Nyale Festival, held each year during the harvest of the prized nyale (sea worm).

Witness the 5 Pasola, the horse-riding fighting festival in West Sumba that’s one of Asia’s most extravagant harvest festivals.

GREAT ESCAPES

From the serene corners of Bali, then east through Lombok and to Nusa Tenggara, sublime refuge awaits in quiet, often artful guesthouses and small resorts, replete with the gracious and convivial welcome for which the region is lauded. The untrodden beach, thundering waterfall, and grand, green vistas are here.

Nest, Gili Meno | Danislh/shutterstock ©

Bali’s Quiet Corners

Away from the frenzy of the south, you’ll find plenty of blissful escapes on Bali. Consider Sidemen, Amed, Munduk and Medewi Beach, among many others.

Discovering Isolation

Relatively isolated and delightfully funky resorts can be found in the quiet corners of Bali, and at the sparse beaches and jungle-clad volcanoes further east.

BEST ESCAPIST EXPERIENCES

Head into the hills of 1 Tanglad in Nusa Penida to watch traditional weavers at work.

Do nothing at the beach of 2 Pantai Umeanyar near Seririt – a quiet stretch of coast in north Bali.

Leave life behind at 3 Sekaroh, the remote Lombok beach town famed for its pink sand.

Snorkel to the world-famous underwater sculpture of 4 Nest at Gili Meno.

Explore the traditional Ngada village of 5 Bena, perched on the side of a forested volcano.

BALI’S GLORIOUS RESORTS

Whether you need a total fix for the soul or desire a pampering stay, you can indulge at a luxurious Bali resort. Unplug at palatial retreats perched above dazzling white sands or in idyllic river valleys. The design and architecture win international acclaim, the service is lavish and the opulent spas divine.

Finding Bali’s Best

Some of the world’s top resort hotels can be found around Ubud and in the south, from Canggu and Kerobokan to the Bukit Peninsula’s south coast.

Jon Chica/shutterstock ©

Yes, Sire

Set on a white crescent of sand that could almost be the fourth Gili, Sire is a luxurious enclave on Lombok that’s home to palatial resorts.

Vinchel Budihardjo/getty images ©

Lost in Sumba

Already far off the beaten path, Sumba is home to two noted and luxurious resorts: surfer-friendly NIHI Sumba and the Sanubari.

BEST RESORT EXPERIENCES

Sit on the beach at 1 Como Uma Canggu, an ultra-luxurious resort with a superb spa.

Discover Bali’s artistic side at 2 Tugu Bali, a series of traditional buildings redolent with gracious charm and artful collections.

Take in the phenomenal views at 3 Anantara Uluwatu, a lavish resort built on a cliff edge, in sight of legendary surf breaks.

Lose yourself in green at 4 Mandapa, a renowned resort with a striking design set in Ubud’s Sungai Valley.

Experience Ubud’s traditional welcome at 5 Ibah, a vintage retreat that sits at the nexus of rivers, temples and hiking trails.

UNDERWATER WONDERS

Encircled by magnificent reefs, Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara have oodles of places to slip on fins and a mask and enter beautiful underwater worlds. There is a huge variety of coral and colourful fish and mammals of all sizes in the pristine waters that lap these islands. Scuba diving and snorkelling are huge draws: for some, slipping beneath the waves is part of a larger trip; for others, it’s the whole point.

Scuba Diving

Good dive operators are found throughout the region. Try out the sport on a discovery dive, enjoy a day cruise (or longer), or get certified.

Dudarev Mikhail/shutterstock ©

Snorkelling

There is no shortage of places on Bali’s coast to don a mask and fins and explore the delights underwater, such as Tulamben, with its sunken freighter.

Denis Moskvinov/shutterstock ©

Freediving

Ready for something deeper? Plunge to depths of 30m and beyond on a single breath. Bali’s Amed is a centre for freediving.

Coral reef off Pulau Komodo | Ethan Daniels/shutterstock ©

BEST UNDERWATER EXPERIENCES

Revel in Bali’s best diving at 1 Pulau Menjangan, which is lauded for its amazingly varied diving and snorkelling.

Explore the 2 Coral Triangle at Nusa Lembongan, right at the centre of a marine region revered for its remarkable biodiversity.

Choose from oodles of dive locations in the 3 Gilis. There’s underwater statues off Meno, shipwrecks everywhere and coral walls.

Don’t just come for the dragons, 4 Komodo National Park is also famed for numerous dive sites and live-aboard holidays.

Invest the time to reach the remote 5 Alor Archipelago, where there’s serious dive culture, a healthy reef and large pelagics.

BALI’S FOOD & DRINK

Bali excels at sublime eating and drinking. Seminyak boasts an array of restaurants and bars; Kerobokan is the go-to for stylish and superb eateries; Denpasar cafes serve exceptional local fare in relaxed surrounds; Canggu sees interesting cafes and hip restaurants opening weekly; while Ubud is a profusion of creative eateries, many healthy, all delicious.

Brilliant Local Fare

Superb warungs (food stalls) serving exceptional Balinese and Indonesian cuisine are found across the island. Many are family-run affairs; peak opening hours are midday.

Tang Yan Song/shutterstock ©

Bali Booze

Bali’s craft breweries include Black Sand and South+East. The burgeoning wine scene boasts Hattan and Sababay wineries. And don’t miss arak – the ceremonial spirit.

RANDY IMANUEL/shutterstock ©

Sizzling Street Food

At night markets like those in Sanur, Sayan and Gianyar, you can graze on exceptional street food. Find staples like sate (satay) and pisang goreng (fried banana).

BEST EATING & DRINKING EXPERIENCES

Get intimate at Canggu’s 1 Skool Kitchen, with a high-concept menu centred on ancient wood-fired cooking traditions.

Dine well at 2 Ijen, an earth-conscious restaurant using local seafood and produce in creative dishes.

Have the Indonesian-archipelago-inspired tasting menu at 3 Rumari, the sophisticated restaurant at the Raffles Bali resort.

Ride the trendsetting wave at 4 Locavore NXT, the influential Ubud restaurant located in its own farm fantasyland. Book months ahead.

Enjoy the eating and drinking delights at 5 Room4Dessert, the top-end bistro run by chef Will Goldfarb in Ubud.

ENDLESS PARTIES

It starts with beach cafes and clubs. Maybe mellow daytime cocktails at one and wild antics at the other. It segues to sunset drinks and continues through high-energy restaurants amid post-sunset glow and pulsing house beats. Later, world-class clubs draw you in, with international DJs spinning sets to packed dance floors.

Potato Head | raditya/shutterstock ©

Bali’s Crescent of Delights

Starting at Canggu’s beaches, Bali’s party action follows the sand round via Kerobokan, Seminyak, Legian and Kuta, before heading to the Bukit Peninsula and Uluwatu.

Sandy Brews

If there’s a beach and tourists, you’ll find genial vendors dispensing Bintangs while you recline on loungers, cheap plastic chairs or right on the sand.

BEST PARTYING EXPERIENCES

Pick the all-day Canggu party at 1 Finns Beach Club, where days and nights of pure hedonism await.

Feel famous at high-concept beach clubs such as 2 Potato Head, with stylish bites and hip tunes.

Gird yourself for nights out in 3 Kuta, the centre for anything-goes boozy nights.

Watch the last surfers of the day at sunset from 4 Single Fin and other beach joints near Uluwatu’s Pantai Suluban.

Survive the frenetic scene at 5 Sama Sama on party island Gili Trawangan.

SURFING THE CURL

In Bali, Lombok and Nusa Tenggara, you have dozens of great breaks on almost every island. You can spend a lifetime here riding the waves – and some do. Surfers buzz around the islands on motorbikes with board racks, looking for the next great wave and soaking up the pervasive surf vibe that permeates the beaches.

Bali’s Surf Seasons

From September to December, go east; during the other months, go west. And most of the time, you can also go south.

Wonderful Nature/shutterstock ©

Surf Schools & Gear

Board rental, repair and sales are found at popular breaks. Lessons for everyone, from enthusiastic kids through tentative adults, are easily arranged at the beaches.

Dmitrii Rud/shutterstock ©

Black-Sand Breaks

Escape the crowds at the beaches along Bali’s east and west coasts. Try Pantai Keramas along the former and Balian and Medewi along the latter.

BEST SURFING EXPERIENCES

Marvel at 1 Kuta Beach, the vast sweep of sand where surfers of all skills enjoy nonstop waves.

Find some of Southeast Asia’s most legendary surfing at 2 Uluwatu. It’s the climax of the breaks along the Bukit Peninsula.

Spend days riding the waves at 3 Pantai Jungutbatu off Nusa Lembongan. Breaks are offshore, past the reefs. Watch the action from beachside cafes.

Trek out to semi-remote 4 Desert Point on Lombok. It’s a tough break, even for the experienced.

Win your stripes at 5 Pantai Lakey in Sumbawa, where international championship surfers come year-round.

SHOPPING MECCA

Some consider Bali a great shopping destination; for others, it’s their destiny. The island draws creative designers from across Indonesia and the world, and inspires local talent. Major brands of today and the famous names of tomorrow are found in boutiques and shops. Across the region, markets are unmissable experiences.

Klungkung market | Christina Desitriviantie/shutterstock ©

Bargain Hunts

In markets, stalls and shops without fixed prices in Indonesia, bargaining is part of the purchasing process. Just don’t stress about saving one last rupiah.

Local Markets

Residents bargain for flowers, baskets, fruit and ornaments used in temple offerings at spirited, sprawling markets (pasars). Other stalls sell clothing, curios and daily essentials.

BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCES

Browse the shops of 1 Seminyak, especially the famous ones along Jl Kayu Aya.

Get your textiles fix with renowned ikat expert 2 Pak Haji Noer in Sumba’s Kupang.

Bring an extra bag to 3 Ubud and nearby villages for local handicrafts, art and fashion.

Get lost in 4 Klungkung market, a warren of buildings and one of east Bali’s best markets.

Explore Lombok’s retail hub 5 Mataram. Besides malls, you’ll find Pasar Cakranegara market and handicraft-filled Mataram Mall.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

North Bali

ADVENTURE AND NATURE ALONG THE COAST

Far from the hubbub of Bali’s south, the island’s north encompasses history, culture, a national park, reef-protected beaches and sensational diving and snorkelling. Singaraja is the island’s second city and has an array of museums, and nearby Lovina is a dolphin-watching hub. Hillside hikes lead to dozens of pounding waterfalls.

West Bali

BEACHES, NATURE AND TEMPLES

Seaside Pura Tanah Lot marks the end – for now – of Bali’s wild development in the southwest. To the west are untrodden charcoal-sand beaches interspersed with the low-key surfing villages of Balian Beach and Medewi. The region’s main hub, Tabanan, is close to Bali’s rice-growing traditions and the incredible temple of Pura Taman Ayun.

Canggu & Southwest Beaches

BEACHES AND A BLISSFUL HOLIDAY VIBE

Bali’s magnificent sweep of sand stretches in an arc across the southwest coast. These beaches lure the majority of Bali’s visitors, from the original tourist town of Kuta through Legian, Seminyak, Kerobokan and buzzing Canggu, all pulsing with cafes, clubs, restaurants, shops, surf and round-the-clock fun.

South Bali & the Islands

IDYLLIC BEACHES AND A RELAXED ISLAND VIBE

Family-friendly Sanur is the gateway to the blissful islands of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. Both offer an escape from Bali’s clamour and boast incredible beaches and superb diving. Denpasar is Bali’s commercial centre, while the Bukit Peninsula holds cloistered Nusa Dua and the popular beaches and surf spots of Uluwatu.

Central Mountains

VOLCANOES, FORESTS AND BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAIN VIEWS

Misty hikes to waterfalls and trees groaning with low-hanging fruit are highlights of Bali’s central mountains, which include the unmissable Munduk village. Higher up the slopes, the evocative Pura Luhur Batukau attracts worshippers, and the sacred crater lakes of Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan shimmer amid their volcanic calderas to the awe of sunrise hikers.

Ubud Region

CULTURE, BEAUTY AND PLEASURE

Bali’s remarkable culture is celebrated in Ubud, where art, dance and religion bloom. Ever-popular, the village of Ubud is a tantalising mix of chill cafes, vegan fare, yoga studios, creative shops, family-run guesthouses and memorable walks through lush rice fields. Nearby, ancient temples, artisans’ studios, village markets and white-water adventures beckon.

Lombok

BALI’S LESSER-TRAVELLED NEIGHBOUR

Lombok has much to love. Surfers adore the southern coast and Kuta for its uncrowded breaks, while others laze away on the dozens of wide-open beaches. High above the waves, Gunung Rinjani – the iconic active volcano – is a draw for hikers. The island’s Sasak culture infuses the main city of Mataram, a cultural melting pot.

East Bali

SACRED TEMPLES, VERDANT HIKES, HISTORICAL ADVENTURE

Bali’s east offers one delight after another. The ancient royal cities of Klungkung and Amlapura speak to the island’s rich history. Bali’s tallest volcano, sacred Gunung Agung, is the site of its holiest temple, Pura Besakih, while the compelling coast includes sights in and around Padang Bai, Amed, Tulamben and beyond.

Gili Islands

CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATERS AND LAID-BACK LIVING

Just off Lombok are three islands with three personalities: Gili Trawangan is the largest, busiest and most popular with partiers. Gili Meno is the smallest, quietest and a haven for visitors seeking solitude. Gili Air melds the two in one family-friendly, enjoyable island. Offshore, fantastic snorkelling and diving await.

Nusa Tenggara

TIMELESS CULTURE, EPIC NATURE AND BIG WAVES

Nusa Tenggara is the great adventure east of Lombok. See dragons at Komodo National Park, laze at pink-sand beaches and enjoy buzzy Labuan Bajo, the tourist centre of fascinating Flores. Other major islands include Sumbawa with its surf breaks; Timor-Leste with its ancient villages; and Sumba with its artisans and indigenous culture.

ITINERARIES

Bali to Nusa Tenggara

Allow: 6 weeks    Distance: 1600km

Mix the offbeat with the sublime. Start in Indonesia’s heart of tourism, Bali, before hitting the Gilis and Lombok. Then, it’s the islands of Nusa Tenggara province: many travellers will know parts of Flores, but Sumbawa, Sumba, West Timor etc. are little-visited and reward every single day spent exploring.

1 BALI 1 WEEK

Start in Bali for culture and nightlife: watch the surf and hang out in the waterfront guesthouses and cafes of Uluwatu. Head north for the ‘other’ Bali – the culture, temples and rich history of Ubud. Check out the lush beauty and historic sites in east Bali on your way to Padang Bai (pictured) and the fast boat to the Gilis.

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2 GILIS & LOMBOK 1 WEEK

Bounce around the paradise beaches and aquamarine water of the Gilis. Join the parties on Gili Trawangan and soak off the night before on chill Gili Air (pictured). Take the ferry to Lombok and enjoy the mellow vibes in Kuta. Explore the wild beaches of south Lombok and consider a trek up Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest volcano. Catch the ferry at Labuhan Lombok.

Bucha Natallia/shutterstock ©

3 SUMBAWA 1 WEEK

Admire the beautiful coastline and surf breaks that dot conservative Sumbawa, an island of volcanic ridges, dry expanses and sheltered bays. Pantai Lakey is a great beach town and a surfers’ mecca, with cool guesthouses and cafes overlooking awesome surf: Lakey Peak and Lakey Pipe are hallowed names here. Catch a ferry from Sape to Flores.

trubavin/shutterstock ©

4 FLORES 1 WEEK

Flores is a rugged volcanic island with thriving ancient cultures and dramatic terrain. Labuan Bajo is the fast-growing hub in west Flores for exploring the dragons (pictured) and pink-sand beaches of Komodo National Park. Visit Bajawa to explore the Ngada villages of Bena and Luba on the slopes of Gunung Inerie. At the old trading port of Ende, catch the ferry to Sumba.

Sergey Uryadnikov/shutterstock ©

5 SUMBA 1 WEEK

Step outside your comfort zone in isolated and timeless Sumba, with its ancient villages, ancestral spirits and animist rituals. Tour the traditional villages of Waikabubak (pictured) and Waibakul, where the peaked thatched roofs and ancient traditions will have you wide-eyed. Catch the waves on white-sand Pantai Marosi, one of Sumba’s many superb beaches that is slowly attracting attention. Fly to West Timor.

Fadil Aziz/getty images ©

6 WEST TIMOR 1 WEEK

Ease into the off-the-grid feel of West Timor at Kupang. Visit entrancing ancient villages like None, where heads were still hunted up two generations ago. At Boti, see how residents follow their nine-day week and in Tamkesi (pictured), climb a sacred mountain for a view over a centuries-old village. Then jump over to Rote for powdery white-sand beaches and epic surf.

Kristina Ismulyani/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Beaches of Lombok & Bali

Allow: 2 weeks    Distance: 400km

You’ll visit five islands and countless beaches on a trip that takes in the most interesting sandy shores and underwater places across Bali, the Gilis and Lombok. It’s a mix of the famous, infamous and barely known, with something for every taste, from sublime snorkelling and long days lazing to perfect wave-riding.

1 CANGGU 2 DAYS

The series of long beaches collectively known as Canggu is the heart of Bali’s hippest scene. Boho cafes mix with simple beach bars and pulsing, high-profile clubs. Alternate relaxation with high-energy parties and surf.

Detour: Foray to cliffside Bingin on the Bukit Peninsula, where the vibe is even more alternative. Pocket-sized beaches of powdery sand here reward exploration.

Peter Galleghan/shutterstock ©

2 MENGWI 2 DAYS

This is the home of the surfing hotspot of Pantai Medewi and its much-vaunted long left-hand wave – rides of up to 500m are common. The immediate beach is a stretch of huge, smooth grey rocks interspersed among round black pebbles. Just west is the long swath of wide and sandy Pantai Yeh Sumbul, with a smattering of cool beachy guesthouses – and no crowds.

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3 PEMUTERAN 3 DAYS

Bali’s best diving and snorkelling is found at Pemuteran (pictured) on the northwest coast. A short boat ride brings you to the underwater wonders of Pulau Menjangan, part of West Bali National Park. Surrounding this deserted island are over a dozen superb dive sites that include sunken boats, reef walls and beautiful coral. Above the water, the island has barely trodden beaches.

Dudarev Mikhail/shutterstock ©

4 AMED 2 DAYS

Get all the beach time you need at the succession of scalloped bays lined with beaches in the region known as Amed. Little seaside villages such as Jemeluk (pictured) and Lipah have boutique guesthouses where yoga seems to always be on offer. Just north is the diving and snorkelling centre of Tulamben, with a shipwreck you can reach right from the shore.

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5 GILI ISLANDS 3 DAYS

These three little dots of white sand off Lombok could easily occupy your entire trip. Get to grips with island life on chill Gili Air. Next up is Trawangan, where there’s much more action (and parties). The perfect day here can include diving, napping, swimming, lazing and drinking – all before noon. Last is Gili Meno, where there’s little to do except ponder the peace.

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6 KUTA 2 DAYS

The south coast near Lombok’s Kuta has stunning beaches and surfing to reward the intrepid. Beaches just don’t get much better than this: the water is warm, striped turquoise, and curls into barrels; the sand is silky and snow white, framed by massive headlands and sheer cliffs. Typical is Selong Belanak (pictured), which has the kind of beach you fly to Indonesia for.

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ITINERARIES

Bali’s Extraordinary Culture

Allow: 3 weeks    Distance: 390km

The Balinese have a deep cultural heritage and belief systems that are an integral part of life across the island. Religion plays a role in so much of what makes the island appealing to visitors, the temples, art, music, offerings, architecture, processions and more. Get ready to dive right in.

1 UBUD 1 WEEK

Explore the temples in Ubud and attend Balinese dance performances (pictured). Then venture to nearby sites such as those in Pejeng, where treasures include one of Bali’s oldest artefacts. Just south are the mysteries at Goa Gajah. To the north, Tegallalang has ancient sites like the wondrous Gunung Kawi and the rushing waters of Pura Tirta Empul.

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2 SIDEMEN 4 DAYS

The green cradle of Sidemen is an ideal base for visiting some of east Bali’s holiest places. To the north is Bali’s mother volcano, Gunung Agung. On the slopes is the island’s most sacred place, the Pura Besakih (pictured) complex. Get your head above the clouds at Pura Pasar Agung. South, don’t miss Klungkung’s royal compound of Puri Agung Semarapura.

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3 TIRTA GANGGA 3 DAYS

On your way to Tirta Gangga, pause to contemplate the mysteries of Pura Goa Lawah (pictured), the site of a taman (ornamental garden) – built for the enjoyment of the last king of the Karangasem regency – with brilliant rice-terrace vistas. Then head to the heavens of Pura Lempuyang, the series of mountain-top temples – marvel at the views on a magical uphill trek.

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4 SERIRIT 2 DAYS

Looping around Bali’s east coast, stop at Yeh Sanih for interesting temples that include Pura Maduwe Karang and its unusual carvings. In the city of Singaraja, don’t miss important museums like Gedong Kirtya Library. Spend the night at a beachside spot near Seririt. Further west, the troika of temples anchored by Pura Pulaki (pictured) is an important stop-off.

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5 TABANAN 1 DAY

Continue around the coast, exploring the wilds and black beaches of west Bali. Pura Gede Perancak is close to mangrove forests, while Pura Rambut Siwi is an important sea temple. Stay around Tabanan and hit the oceanfront Pura Tanah Lot (pictured) early in the day, to avoid the sunset crowds. Save time for the sublime Pura Taman Ayun too.

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6 SEMINYAK 4 DAYS

One of south Bali’s top destinations, Seminyak, with its shops and nightlife, may not seem spiritual, but it is. Pura Petitenget (pictured) is located on a beautiful stretch of beach and is the scene of frequent ceremonies – look for offerings in the sand. Make a day trip south to the popular – and vital – temple of Pura Luhur Ulu Watu with its views across the Indian Ocean.

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ITINERARIES

Best of Bali

Allow: 1 week    Distance: 230km

Short on time? This trip covers Bali’s best in a week. You’ll split your time between the incredibly popular south, with its nightlife, dining, shopping and beaches; and the hillside charms of Ubud, with its culture, cafes and natural beauty. The bases of Kerobokan and Ubud are well-placed for day trips.