Tea with Bea: Recipes from Bea's of Bloomsbury
By Bea Vo
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Tea with Bea - Bea Vo
introduction
I should have known that I was meant to be a pastry chef when I looked back at my childhood and realized that the highlights had been baking for our academic club’s bake sale, researching and baking special cheesecake muffins for my Jewish friend during Passover, and testing different colours of wet and dry caramel to see what works best with crème caramel. Also, I had an uncanny ability to get flour on the ceiling despite my diminutive size. At university, I spent more time in the kitchen than at the library and came to the conclusion that I needed to see if perhaps I should be on a different career track. I took a pastry course in the summer, loved every wonderful second of it, and decided that I needed to work in the real world of pastry to see if it was for me. I found an apprenticeship at Renee’s Patisserie under Renee Senne, who took me under her wing. From there I moved into restaurants, learning at Nobu and Asia de Cuba in London.
Pastry is a craft which involves repetition and knowledge of techniques with your hands, and knowledge of how the ingredients will react in all sorts of environments. Eventually all that knowledge accumulates into the making of a pastry chef, who can not only create balanced desserts and is trained in the foundational techniques of the craft, but best of all, knows how to be a problem solver and fix things.
When I was first asked by the lovely Céline Hughes and Alison Starling at Ryland Peters & Small to write a cookbook, I was quite sceptical. After all, all of the greats have already covered almost every single possible recipe and technique there is to think of that we currently use in our own kitchens. But then it occurred to me that cookbooks aren’t just textbooks – they are a reflection of a particular chef’s point of view, much in the way that while we may have almost all types of stories told in novel form, we still look to seek new cadences and structure and ideas in an author’s new work.
As a result, this book is meant to serve two purposes: one, to provide a more thorough understanding of basic pastry techniques, and two, to allow you to replicate our famous afternoon tea style for yourself. I hope the perspective of Bea’s of Bloomsbury and the cadences in this book bring you success in your own kitchen.
Bea Vo
Cooking notes:
All spoon measurements are level, unless otherwise specified.
All eggs are medium (for the UK) or large (for the US), unless otherwise specified. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very young, the very old, those with compromised immune systems, or to pregnant women.
When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water and rinse before using.
Baking sheets are frequently required to be lined with parchment paper throughout the book. It is recommended that silicone-based parchment paper be used.
Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperature. Recipes in this book were tested using a fan-assisted oven. If using a regular oven, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adjusting temperatures. However, as a general rule, temperatures should be increased by about 15–20˚C or about 35˚F if using a regular oven.
tips to a successful pastry run
The cookbook is extremely streamlined in its steps, which means you shouldn’t miss one if you want a successful result.
Heat isn’t the only thing to consider in the kitchen – cold plays an important role, too, particularly for a pastry chef. There is something in the belief that good pastry chefs must have cold hands to prevent things from melting when they shouldn’t. And when a recipe asks you to chill something, there is a good reason for it and it’s just as important as baking something in the oven!
Pastry requires patience. A lot of recipes need as little as 10 minutes to make, but you must also factor in prepping, chilling, baking and cooling times. One way to approach this book is to devote time to making lots of different things (which could take a whole day). Another approach is to fit the pastry making into your daily routine, so you’re not tied to the cake pans. For example, while your pastry cream or your doughs are chilling, start making a quick pasta dinner or stir-fry. Pop things in the oven while you’re clearing the table and you can have warm financiers or cookies ready for after dinner.
Baking is a craft: the more you do it, the better you get, so don’t ever feel discouraged if your first try comes out funny. Cookbooks are like textbooks – they serve as guides but can’t replace years of practice. You will learn techniques inherently and create your own tricks for success.
Electric stand mixers are a big investment but they’re the best investments you’ll make. I still have my home KitchenAid mixer and it’s currently 13 years old and counting. Spread out over 13 years, that amounts to negligible sums. And the amount of time you’ll save? Days and days...
Blowtorches are cool. That is all.
Many say it’s really dangerous to alter recipes because they can come out badly, like a bad chemistry experiment. With regards to ratios of baking powder, sugar, salt, butter, eggs and liquid measures, they are on the ball. However, with things like adding spices and different chocolates, and playing with citrus zests, you can really be creative. The recipes in this book are foundational, so play around a bit until you find something that really works for you.
Don’t overfill a piping bag – unless you like mixture all over your shirt in a nice straight line.
Having a proper oven thermometer is super-important. It’s always best to make sure your oven isn’t off by 25–30 degrees, which could drastically change the outcome of a recipe.
Best of all, remember that you are surrounded by sugar, butter and probably chocolate and fruit. Nibble some sugar when things look hairy.
making perfect tea
Tea is the essential part of afternoon tea and considering it’s the most consumed beverage in the world (except for water), special attention must be paid to this wonderful brew. After all, imagine working hours and hours on special treats and desserts for a tea party only to serve it with dust found on a factory floor.
Always look for good, loose-leaf teas. Teas are made up of long leaves that are dried and processed. When whole, the essential oils are locked inside the tea and kept from oxidizing and tasting bitter.
Teas should be stored in an airtight, dark, cool container. Don’t buy teas that come in boxes with open windows – the teas are already oxidized by the time you get them.
The trick with teas is to extract all of the lovely aromatics without extracting too many tannins, which cause bitterness. Match the temperatures and brewing times to your specific teas. Delicate teas like white or green teas require a lower temperature and longer brewing times; black teas will need a high temperature and slightly shorter brewing times.
Water quality is important – filtered water is always best.
Tea leaves need room to expand and move around. This makes most tea bags impractical because tea leaves don’t have the space to expand and infuse the water properly. I recommend T-sacs, which are large, fillable bags because they’re roomy and therefore suit teapots and mugs.
While loose-leaf teas can be expensive, the high quality of a tea means that the leaves can be infused over and over again. In fact, for many high-quality teas, the second, third and even later infusions are considered to be better than the first, which in some cultures is considered ‘washing’ the tea.
Teas will undergo many changes, even in the cup, over a period of time. While you’re chatting with friends and eating yummy treats,