Lonely Planet Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Top Experiences

Need to Know

What’s New

Month by Month

Itineraries

Activities

Shabbat

Crossing Borders

Family Travel

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Jerusalem

Sights

Church Tour: Church of the Holy Sepulchre

City Walk: Via Dolorosa

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Jerusalem

Abu Ghosh

Latrun

Neot Kedumim

Soreq Cave

Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park

Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo)

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Tel Aviv

Gush Dan

Herzliya

Holon

Netanya

Ramla

Haifa & the North Coast

Haifa

Daliyat Al Karmel

Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah

Ein Hod & Ayn Hawd

Atlit

Zichron Ya’akov

Mey Kedem

Caesarea

Akko (Acre)

Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta’ot

Nahariya

North of Nahariya

Lower Galilee & Sea of Galilee

Nazareth

Kafr Kana

Tzipori

Mt Tabor Area

Jezreel & Beit She’an Valleys

Tiberias

Sea of Galilee

Northwestern Shore

Eastern Shore

Southwestern Shore

Religious Sites

Upper Galilee & Golan

Upper Galilee

Tsfat

Mt Meron Area

Rosh Pina

Hula Valley

Galilee Panhandle

Golan Heights

Katzrin

Southern Golan

Central Golan

Northern Golan

West Bank

Bethlehem

Ramallah

Taybeh

Jericho

Hebron

Nablus

Jenin

The Dead Sea

Ein Gedi

Northwestern Coast

Masada

Ein Bokek

Sodom

Neot HaKikar

The Negev

Be’er Sheva

Negev Highlands

Mitzpe Ramon

The Arava

Eilat

Petra

The Ancient City

Wadi Musa

Siq Al Barid (Little Petra)

UNDERSTAND

History

People of Israel & the Palestinian Territories

The Gaza Strip

Regional Food

Daily Life

Government & Politics

Religion

Arts

Environment

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Safe Travel

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Etiquette

Food

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Money

Post

Public Holidays

Smoking

Taxes & Refunds

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Work

Transport

Getting There & Away

Air

Land

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitching

Sherut

Local Transport

Tours

Train

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Israel and the Palestinian Territories can be a difficult place, but when the call to prayer rings out in the streets of Jerusalem, the smell of spices hovers above the old city of Nablus or the sun sets over the hills of the Galilee, it can be a magical one too. It is as fascinating as it is frustrating, as tantalising as it is torn. But look close enough – with the right kind of eyes – and you get a glimpse of what unites all who live between the Jordan River and the Mediterranean: an unshakeable bond to the land.

Old City, Jerusalem | ROSTISLAV AGEEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

By Orlando Crowcroft, Writer

For more about our writers.

Israel & the Palestinian Territories’ Top Experiences

1SPIRITUAL WONDERS

Curious visitors, spiritual seekers and devoted pilgrims all flock to Israel and the Palestinian Territories. The region has sites sacred to myriad faiths – and the combination of inspiring architecture and electric atmosphere form an indelible impression. Jerusalem is a spiritual lightning rod. Millions of Christian pilgrims descend on Jericho, Bethlehem and Nazareth. Meanwhile Haifa is home to resplendent Baha’i gardens and monuments.

Dome of the Rock | HIKRCN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Be awed in Jerusalem’s Old City

The resplendent beauty of the plaza at Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif contrasts painfully with its bitterly contested status. To Muslims, it’s The Noble Sanctuary, where Muhammad rose to heaven. For Jews, it’s Temple Mount, where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son.

Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif above the Western Wall | MARK MILLAN/500PX ©

Touch the Western Wall

Judaism’s holiest prayer site exerts a magnetic pull. Join the throng to lay your hands on 2000-year-old stone; you can watch the faithful slide prayerful notes between the cracks and listen to the murmur of Orthodox Jews in prayer.

JOURNEYKEI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See Christianity’s beginnings

Christian pilgrims flock to Bethlehem’s thrumming Old City, and this lantern-lit sanctuary is powerfully atmospheric for visitors of all faiths. Devotees crouch beneath the ‘Door of Humility’ and descend into the grotto – believed to be where Jesus was born.

JAVIER CRESPO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2EXTRAORDINARY BEACHES

Playful beach culture unfolds along Israel’s Mediterranean Coast, from surfing to sunset drinks – with games of matkot (paddleboard) in between! Even more intriguing beach experiences can be found fringing the great salt sea inland... The Dead Sea’s bromine-rich waters have created an open-air spa experience, with golden beaches and healing waters. Prepare to sizzle in peak summer; the best beach weather is from April to June and September through October.

Defy gravity in the Dead Sea

Uplifted by ultra-salty water, countless visitors come to experience delightful buoyancy in the Dead Sea (pictured). After bobbing in this healing lake, stroll russet cliffs and salt-crusted beaches, and bed down in a spa hotel.

MSTUDIOG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Snorkel coral reefs

Clamp on a snorkel or wriggle into a wetsuit: you’re plunging into the crystalline Red Sea (pictured), where rays glide and angelfish dart through forests of coral. Eilat suits absolute beginners, and there are plenty of outfits to take a PADI diving course.

DUDAREV MIKHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Surf and swim the Mediterranean

Beit Yanai is caressed by waves and buffered by stiff breezes, propelling kite surfers (pictured) to dizzy pirouettes. Forty kilometres north of Tel Aviv, this long beach has great facilities, attracting ramblers, surfers and swimmers to its golden sand.

MATAN BOCHNER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

3MOUTH-WATERING PASTRIES

Gastronomes will groan with pleasure as they munch Israeli breakfasts, peruse food markets and find their favourite falafel and hummus. Sweet temptations are infinitely varied, from rose-scented jellies to syrup-drenched cheesecake to muhallebi, a fragrant rice pudding. Find memorable pastries at centuries-old bakeries, stalls piled with halva (nougat) and Jewish cafes turning out glistening sufganiyah (doughnuts).

Taste crunchy kunafeh

This rich cheesecake (pictured) is topped with finely shredded filo pastry, plus a sprinkling of nuts for added crunch. Dowsed with daring lashings of syrup, it’s an unforgettable sugar rush. Nablus is famous for it.

GULCIN RAGIBOGLU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Gorge on European goodies

Waves of migrants brought recipes with them to Israel: French tartlets, Austrian vanilla slices and Eastern European babka. Try them all: Haifa has some of the best spots.

Babka with apricots | MIRJAM KAVCIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Banquet on baklava and halva

Why choose between halva and baklava when you could nibble a selection in cafes in and around Jerusalem? Order coffee to freshen your palate between sugar-loaded bites.

Date-laden sweets | ALEXANDRA LANDE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4GEOLOGICAL MARVELS

Cultural wonders and spiritual sites need little introduction. But the staggering beauty of this Middle Eastern region is also borne out in nature: fearsome desert temperatures, the rumble of tectonic plates and the action of the sparkling Mediterranean have conspired to sculpt eye-popping landscapes. Hike, drive or cycle to experience their majesty up close: from bone-white caves on the north coast to eerie salt formations in the desert.

See colossal desert canyons

Some 200 million years of erosion by the slow-receding sea created the monumental, dusky-pink Makhtesh Ramon (pictured) in the Negev desert.

ALEXANDER INGERMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Experience a desert oasis

Ein Gedi (pictured) is fed by springs and visited by ibex. Embark on trails up to the plateau for panoramic views.

YAIR ARONSHTAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Descend into sea caves

The sea winks through pale limestone frames at the scenic underground Rosh HaNikra Grottoes (pictured) by the border with Lebanon.

VVVITA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5EPIC HIKING

From waterfalls to arid red canyons, the region’s multiplicity of terrain is truly rewarding for hikers. The trail network is excellent: a web of hundreds of walks, including well-maintained long-distance treks. Many thread together sites of historic and spiritual significance, adding context that only amplifies the landscapes’ grandeur. Some walks would take weeks to complete; but it’s easy to carve mammoth trails into manageable day trips that suit all abilities.

Hiking in the Negev | SUBBOTSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tackle the Israel National Trail

Zigzagging 1100km north to south from Kibbutz Dan to Eilat, the Israel National Trail carves through yawning canyons, remote farmland and flower-speckled meadows. If you don’t have several weeks to spare, day-hike a short section: whether craters, canyons or verdant Mt Tabor.

Explore the Eilat Mountains

Walking trails thread the peaks above Eilat. Take the Red Canyon trail for a two-hour ramble through an undulating sandstone canyon. Or for a challenging trek, tackle Mt Shlomo (pictured).

AVI ROZEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Encounter history on the Jesus Trail

This 65km trail (pictured) stretches from Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee. The trek traverses olive groves, farmland and towering cliffs.

PHOTOGRAPHER LILI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

6MAJESTIC ROMAN RUINS

The ebb and flow of history has left behind a jigsaw of crumbling forts, historic mosques and millennia-old temples. But this region is especially rich in well-preserved Roman ruins: you’ll see them dotted around Jerusalem, with remarkable remnants in Avdat and Mamshit. The Roman ruins draw gasps for their settings as much as their scale, whether they’re perched on desert bluffs or overlooking the Mediterranean.

Roam storied Beit She’an

Beit She’an has seen more than 6000 years of history. But its most impressive ruins date from the 1st century AD, when the city thrived under Roman rule. Stroll colonnaded streets, see public baths, spot original mosaics, and tour the 7000-seat theatre.

Imagine gladiatorial battles

Caesarea (pictured) has a richness of Roman ruins, including the unforgettable Aqueduct Beach, with an ancient channel stretching across golden sands. A massive amphitheatre dating to the times of Herod the Great is a highlight.

TUTTI FRUTTI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Contemplate desert ruins

From a hair-raising desert mesa, imagine the last stand taken by 1000 Jews who swore never to submit to Roman rule – dying by suicide instead. Across the sweeping valley of Masada, the remains of Roman camps and the siege wall are still visible.

Top Experiences

7IRRESISTIBLE MARKETS

Markets in Israel and the Palestinian Territories are all-sensory buffets. Incense smoke wafts through the alleyways of souqs in Akko and Nazareth. Glistening olives and wedges of sheep’s cheese pile high in Nablus. Meanwhile bazaars in Jerusalem (pictured) and Tel Aviv glitter with burnished bric-a-brac and high-end antiques. Souvenir-hunters will happily lighten their wallets, though you needn’t spend a shekel to enjoy the buzz of local life.

BALATE DORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rummage flea markets

At Tel Aviv’s Jaffa Flea Market, rifle through racks of vintage clothing, haggle over ceramics, then idle at pop-up bars when the heat gets too much.

Mosaic handbags | INGEHOGENBIJL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sample Jerusalem’s smorgasbord

Mahane Yehuda’s cafes pour espresso and artisanal cocktails, while restaurants turn out tapas, Georgian pastries and Middle Eastern fare.

Spices for sale | JOSE HERNANDEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Feel enchanted in Akko’s souqs

Akko’s Ottoman-era ‘White Market’ occupies a warren of incense-smoked alleyways, each lined with purveyors of spices, leathers and takeaway food.

Top Experiences

8WINE TASTING

The region has been producing wine since biblical times, though modern Israeli viticulture was founded in the 19th century. The breezier Golan Heights and Mediterranean Coast are especially suited for wine production, though clever irrigation has allowed wine to be cultivated in the Judean Hills and Negev. Thirsty? Wineries fling open their doors for tastings, many in quaint tasting rooms or shady outdoor picnic areas overlooking rolling hills.

Tour highland wineries

Top-notch merlot and cabernet sauvignon flow in the once-arid Negev Highlands. Sample barrel-aged reds at Sde Boker Winery, before swirling rosé in Carmey Avdat Winery.

Vineyards near Latrun | JOHN THEODOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Explore Israel’s Napa Valley

The Dalton Plateau is plush with wineries. Take 40-minute tours at Dalton Winery’s cosy wooden tasting room, or sample wines with goat cheese at Adir.

Drink to wine history

Romantic Zichron Ya’akov is where Israel’s modern wine scene began. Toast the oenophile renaissance with bright rieslings and dry reds at Carmel Winery.

Wooden barrels in a wine cellar | POTRASOV AN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Israel and the Palestinian Territories: new Israeli shekel (NIS or ILS); Jordan and the West Bank: Jordanian dinar (JD or JOD)

Language

Israel: Hebrew and Arabic (official), English; Palestinian Territories, Jordan: Arabic (official), English

Visas

Israel and Jordan (at the Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein crossing) grant on-arrival visas to most nationalities.

Money

ATMs are widely available, except at border crossings with Jordan and Egypt. Credit cards almost universally accepted.

Mobile Phones

All but the remotest areas have excellent mobile and data coverage. Local prepaid SIM cards available.

Time

Two hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

When to Go

High Season (Jul & Aug)

A Warm in Jerusalem, muggy in Tel Aviv, infernal in Tiberias, Jericho, the Dead Sea and Eilat.

A Hotel prices spike and rooms are scarce.

A Jewish holidays of Passover, Rosh HaShanah and Sukkot are also high season.

Shoulder (Sep–Nov & Mar–Jun)

A Sometimes rainy but more often warm and sunny.

A Spring wildflowers make March and April ideal for hiking.

Low Season (Dec–Feb)

A Chilly or downright cold in the north, especially at higher elevations.

A Pilgrims flock to Bethlehem for Christmas.

A Popular time to head to the warmth of Eilat and the Dead Sea.

Useful Websites

Israel Nature & Parks Authority (www.parks.org.il) Nature reserves and archaeological sites.

Israel Ministry of Tourism (www.goisrael.com) Background, events and a virtual tour.

This Week in Palestine (www.thisweekinpalestine.com) Articles and cultural events.

ILH-Israel Hostels (www.hostels-israel.com) Independent hostels.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/israel) Destination information, hotel reviews and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than 350NIS

A Dorm bed: 100NIS

A Meals of falafel or hummus, and supermarket picnics: 100NIS (per day)

A Travel by bus or sherut (shared taxi): 50NIS

A Swim at free public beaches

Midrange: 350–600NIS

A Double room at midrange hotel (per person): 150–220NIS

A Meals at midrange restaurants: 100–150NIS

A Private taxi travel: 100–150NIS

Top end: More than 600NIS

A Luxury double room or B&B (per person): from 300NIS

A Meals at the finest restaurants: 300NIS

A Travel by midsize rental car or with guide: 400NIS

Opening Hours (Israel)

Banks 8.30am to 12.30pm, occasionally 4pm to 6.30pm Monday to Thursday. Many branches open on Sunday, some also open Friday morning.

Bars and clubs noon to midnight.

Post offices 8am to 12.30pm, occasionally 3.30pm to 6pm Sunday to Thursday, 8am to noon Friday. Earlier closing times during holidays and in July and August.

Restaurants 8am to 10pm, closed Shabbat. During Ramadan, almost all restaurants in Muslim areas, except in hotels, are closed during daylight hours.

Shopping malls 10am to 9.30pm Sunday to Thursday, until 2pm or 3pm on Friday.

Shops 9am to 6pm Sunday to Thursday, until 2pm or 3pm on Friday.

Arriving in Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Ben Gurion Airport (Tel Aviv) Taxi to Jerusalem/Tel Aviv (110/300NIS), shared sherut to Jerusalem (64NIS) or train to Tel Aviv (13.50NIS).

Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein Crossing (Jordan) Taxi to Beit She’an (40NIS, but you’ll need to haggle hard).

Allenby/King Hussein Bridge (Jordan) Shared sherut to Jerusalem (35NIS, 30 minutes).

Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba Crossing (Jordan) Taxi to Eilat (35NIS, 20 minutes).

Checkpoint 300 (Jerusalem-Bethlehem) Bus from near Damascus Gate, then taxi into Bethlehem (20NIS).

Qalandia Checkpoint (Jerusalem-Ramallah) Bus from near Jerusalem’s Damascus Gate.

Getting Around

Israel has extensive public transport networks; for routes and schedules, head to www.bus.co.il. Buses and trains do not run on the Sabbath and Jewish holidays. The West Bank is served by frequent buses and shared taxis.

Bus Bus service is extensive.

Car A great way to tour the countryside, but parking can be a hassle in major cities.

Sherut (Servees) Service taxis leave when full and are generally quicker than buses on major routes.

Train Intercity and commuter lines run along the coast, to Ben Gurion Airport and up to Jerusalem.

For much more on getting around.

What’s New

When Israel closed its skies to tourists in March 2020, it spent almost a year without international visitors. Some sites busied themselves preparing for the safe return of tourists, others zhuzhed up existing attractions, and new trends continue to emerge...

New Hikes

The newly inaugurated Emmaus Trail (https://saxum.org/emmaus-trail) extends 30km from Abu Ghosh to Emmaus Nicopolis, where Jesus is believed to have been recognised by his disciples after his miraculous resurrection. This olive tree-lined route is lined with Roman tombs. It has been made easily accessible to hikers, with good signage and a shorter 18km route ideal for day hikers.

Revamped Jerusalem Museums

During the pandemic, the planned three-year renovation of the Tower of David Museum, in Jerusalem’s Old City, was condensed into a shorter time frame. At the time of writing, slated improvements included a new entrance, improved accessibility to people with disabilities and a refresh to the permanent exhibition in the tower. There were also plans for self-guided tours, geared towards visitors less comfortable with moving in crowds post-pandemic. Meanwhile the Terra Sancta Museum ( icon-phonegif %058 550-2736; www.terrasanctamuseum.org ; Via Dolorosa; 15NIS) has two new sections being constructed, including never-before-displayed archaeological findings.

Post-Pandemic Prayer

How does a region awash in teeming religious sites prepare for the post-pandemic era of travel, with visitors who are newly nervous in crowds? Local authorities have brainstormed plans for educational signage across religious sites, distanced group prayer sessions at outdoor locations, and even prayer capsules at the Western Wall.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES

Anita Isalska, Lonely Planet writer

For travellers, visiting Israel and the Palestinian Territories is always accompanied by watchfulness and fervent hope for peace. Following a period of unrest and violence, as well as the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, this remains truer than ever.

In 2021, the region was rocked by the worst violence in decades. Escalating tensions over forced evictions led to mounting protests in Jerusalem, followed by rocket attacks that claimed hundreds of lives.

In many respects, the mood has remained dark. Israel’s swift COVID-19 vaccination rollout allowed community events to resume, but the resumption of large-scale gatherings was marred by tragedy in April 2021, when 45 people died in a crush at a pilgrimage event at the tomb of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai.

Though shadows linger over the region, life has marched on for local people and tourism has snapped back comparatively quickly. Recent tragedies have left locals looking to the future with frustration and uncertainty, but always with determination and hope.

Festival Revival

Israel’s successful vaccination programme allow the country to plan early for a revival of its simmering festival scene. At the time of writing, desert music festival InDnegev was poised for a return, along with the Red Sea Jazz Festival and Genesis Festival.

Better Biking

The region’s race towards ever-improving cycling routes continues, with new trails added every year. Join the cycling community for seven-day Israel Ride (https://israelride.org).

Tel Aviv Tech

Pandemic lockdowns interrupted the culture of shared working spaces in Tel Aviv, but the start-up scene is as strong as ever and the trend for shared office space was slowly resuming at the time of writing.

New-Wave Apps

As you’d expect from a start-up capital, people in Israel and the Palestinian Territories are app-crazy, using their smartphones to track everything from transport to restaurant reservations. Gett is handy for booking taxis, Waze helps drivers navigate, Cellopark helps them find a parking spot, and Morfix is a helpful translator between Hebrew and English.

Vegan Food

Once a rarity in Israel, vegan restaurants are popping up all over the country, many marked by ‘Vegan-friendly’ or ‘HappyCow’ (www.happycow.net) stickers.

Craft Beer Renaissance

Discerning hop-heads have a new destination... Craft beer spots have been popping up all over Israel in recent years, particularly in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Start with homemade ales and weiss beer at Libira in Haifa – another city with a lip-smacking brew scene.

LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

For inspiration, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/israel-and-the-palestinian-territories/articles.

Ecotourism Israel (www.ecotourism.org.il) Sustainable sites and guidance on exploring with a light footprint.

Efrat Lichtenstadt (www.instagram.com/lichtenstadt) Sweet-toothed food blogger and Instagrammer based in Jerusalem.

Jerusalem Post (www.jpost.com) Up-to-the-minute source of current events and op-eds.

Secret Tel Aviv (www.secrettelaviv.com) Restaurant listings, tourism tips and sights off the beaten track in Tel Aviv.

FAST FACTS

Lowest point −430.5m (Dead Sea)

Number of Eurovision wins 4

Population 8.79m

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Purim, March

Midburn, May

Israel Festival, May/June

Gay Pride Parade, June

Lights in Jerusalem, June/July

Red Sea Jazz Festival, August

January

The coolest, wettest month of the year. Chilly in Jerusalem and the north; sometimes sunny along the coast; usually sunny at the Dead Sea and in Eilat. Occasional snow in Jerusalem and Tsfat. Low-season room prices.

2 Tu Bishvat

Tu Bishvat, otherwise known as the Jewish New Year for Trees, is celebrated worldwide, but here it has a special sense of renewal. People come to Israel’s national parks from all over to plant trees and eat nuts and dried fruits. It makes a great excuse for hiking in the forests around Jerusalem. For tree-planting activities with the Keren Kayemet Fund, see www.kkl-jnf.org.

February

February marks the beginning of spring in Israel and the Palestinian Territories. Almond trees blossom with beautiful white flowers, and red poppies appear in the hills around Jerusalem. This month can still be cold and rainy, with the odd, unexpected desert wind.

2 Tel Aviv Marathon

A huge annual event held on a Friday morning in late February, the Tel Aviv Marathon takes over the city for a day. Tens of thousands of runners take part in this race along the seafront, main streets in town and HaYarkon Park. Many roads are closed for the event, so getting around town by foot or bicycle is advised.

1 Lailat Al Miraj

This holiday remembers the Prophet Muhammad’s ‘Night Journey’ from Mecca to Jerusalem and from there to heaven. One of Islam’s holiest days, thousands flock to the Dome of Rock in Jerusalem and the spot where Muhammad is believed to have left his footprint inside the Al Aqsa compound. Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif is closed to visitors.

March

Thanks to the winter rains, hillsides and valleys are green, wildflowers are in bloom and the hiking is great. Jerusalem can be cold and wet, but the weather on the coast is often perfect.

1 Purim

Purim is like no other Jewish festival. The emphasis is not on food but instead on fancy dress and alcohol. All over the country, people dress up in outlandish costumes and head out onto the streets. Particularly popular with children, the biggest Purim parade is held in Holon, south of Tel Aviv. For adults, the best Purim street parties are held in Tel Aviv, usually around Kikar HaMedina or Florentin, where DJs blast the tunes to the crowds.

April

Hillsides and valleys are alive with spring wildflowers – this is the best month for hiking. Accommodation prices spike during Passover and, near Christian sites, around Easter; coastal weather is still perfect.

1 Passover

Passover (Pesach in Hebrew) is a week-long celebration of the Israelites’ exodus from slavery in Egypt. Almost all shops and services are closed on the first and seventh days. Bread and other wheat products are forbidden and hidden behind plastic sheeting in supermarkets, though you’ll find the odd Tel Aviv cafe still selling sandwiches. If you’re in Israel, try to get invited to a Passover seder (ritual feast), where the Exodus story is read, songs are sung and much wine is drunk. Lots of Israelis go on holiday, so room prices skyrocket.

1 Good Friday

Commemorates Jesus’s crucifixion in Jerusalem. This is an extremely busy but exciting time to be in Jerusalem. Just after midday, thousands of pilgrims pack the narrow streets for the Procession of the Way of the Cross on Via Dolorosa, and at night, you can watch the candlelit Funeral Procession at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Falls on the Friday before Easter Sunday.

1 Easter

Marks the resurrection of Jesus on the third day after the crucifixion and the end of Lent (40 days of penance and fasting). Easter is celebrated in the major churches in Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Nazareth. In Jerusalem, the most notable events are the parade of Armenian marching bands with bagpipes and drums on Easter Saturday and sunrise services at the Garden Tomb.

z Zorba Festival

Zorba (www.desertashram.co.il/en) is an annual five-day festival of music and spirituality in the Desert Ashram camp in the southern Negev desert. During the day, it offers a range of workshops from yoga, painting and meditation, plus activities for children, and as the sun sets, it turns into a huge dance party under the stars.

RELIGIOUS CALENDARS

Jewish holidays follow the lunisolar Hebrew calendar and fall somewhere within a four-week window relative to the Gregorian (Western) calendar. Some holidays are celebrated for two days in the diaspora but just one day in Israel.

The Islamic calendar is lunar, so each year festivals arrive 11 or 12 days earlier than the Gregorian dates. Final dates are determined according to the sighting of the moon.

Jewish and Muslim holidays begin at sundown and last until sundown of the following calendar day.

Eastern Orthodox churches use a combination of the Julian calendar and, for Easter, the Paschal cycle.

May

Sunny but not too hot, with nice long days. School is in session in Israel, Europe and North America, so few families are travelling. The last rains often fall in early May.

1 Ramadan

Holy month of dawn-to-dusk fasting by Muslims. Celebratory break-fast meals are held after dark. Many shops and restaurants in East Jerusalem (including the Old City), the West Bank and Arab towns in Israel close during daylight hours, but sunset ushers in a lively atmosphere as Muslims head out to eat. In Arab areas, houses are decorated with lights, and there may be increased traffic as people travel to meet family in other towns.

z Israel Independence Day

Commemorating the declaration of the state of Israel in 1948, this is one of the major public holidays. Shops, restaurants and buses operate as normal. The day before Independence Day is Remembrance Day, when services are held around the country to honour fallen soldiers. The mood drastically changes at sunset as street parties and fireworks take place in all major city centres, such as Rabin Sq in Tel Aviv.

z DocAviv

Once a small fringe festival but now a major event for the city, DocAviv is the most comprehensive documentary film festival in the Middle East. Films covering a diverse range of topics are screened in English, Hebrew and Arabic at Tel Aviv’s Cinematheque complex.

z Midburn

Midburn (www.midburn.org/en), Israel’s answer to Burning Man, sees thousands of people descend on the Negev to celebrate art, music and radical self-expression. Like the original festival in the US, a temporary city is erected for six days in the desert near Sde Boker, where anything weird and wonderful is possible.

z Israel Festival

Three weeks of music, theatre and dance performances, some of them free, in and around Jerusalem in late May and early June. A great time to be in the Old City, where it feels like there is a different band or performance of some sort around every narrow corner.

1 Eid Al Fitr

The end of Ramadan is marked by one to three days of celebrations with family and friends. Most shops and services will be closed in Arab areas, as Muslims tend to go on holiday at this time.

June

Long days and sunny, warm weather. The coast is not as hot and humid as in July and August. It rarely rains in June, and you can expect high-season room prices in some places.

1 Shavu’ot

Shavu’ot is the last big Jewish festival before the summer kicks in. Travellers will notice a sharp rise in locals visiting the beaches and main tourist sites in Israel. Dairy products (including all kinds of cheesecake) are eaten, and there is a farmers market in Tel Aviv’s Rabin Sq. As it’s a religious festival that celebrates the Revelation at Mt Sinai, expect Shabbat-like closures of shops and public transport. Accommodation is scarce, and room prices are high.

z Gay Pride Parade

In the second week of June, Tel Aviv is bedecked with rainbow flags for Israel’s biggest and most colourful gay and lesbian extravaganza. Whether you are LGBT or not, Tel Aviv is an incredible place for pride, with bars packed, the beach thumping and visitors from all over the world.

3 White Night

Head to Tel Aviv for an all-night street party with free live music. Held each year on the last Thursday night of June, the White Night (Laila Lavan in Hebrew) sees the main streets, squares and beaches of Tel Aviv become impromptu stages for local bands, DJs, classical pianists and the occasional big act.

z Lights in Jerusalem

An extraordinary event in late June and early July, the totally free Lights in Jerusalem festival sees the ancient city lit up with colourful video projections and 3D light installations. Visitors can explore the Old City walls as they’ve never seen them before.

July

Sweltering along the coast but dry (albeit still hot) in Jerusalem. The warm sea also means it’s jellyfish season. Sizzling at the Sea of Galilee, the Dead Sea and Eilat. Accommodation is pricey, especially in northern B&Bs.

z Jerusalem Film Festival

First held in 1984, the mid-July Jerusalem Film Festival features films and documentaries from all over the world every July. Alongside screenings are seminars, meet-and-greets and a lively awards ceremony. Book tickets well in advance.

3 Opera in the Park

Nearly 100,000 people descend on Tel Aviv’s Park HaYarkon at the height of the summer heat for a free performance by the Israeli Opera. Get there early to save a spot on the grassy hill, where thousands of locals picnic and drink wine while enjoying the performance.

August

The hottest month of the year. Sweltering along the coast, slightly cooler in Jerusalem, infernal at the Sea of Galilee, the Dead Sea and Eilat. Accommodation is expensive, especially in northern B&Bs.

1 Eid Al Adha

During the Festival of the Sacrifice, Muslims commemorate the willingness of Ibrahim (Abraham) to sacrifice his son Ishmael. Marks the end of the hajj (annual pilgrimage to Mecca). Expect traffic jams if heading in or out of the West Bank, as many Palestinians are on holiday.

z Tsfat Klezmer Festival

Eastern European Jewish soul music high in the Galilee, when the town of Tsfat becomes a stage for musicians from across the country. Concerts begin at 9pm and go on well past midnight; camping is available for the three-night festival.

z Red Sea Jazz Festival

Eilat sizzles with four nights of the coolest jazz during the last week of August. The festival features artists such as Al McKay’s Earth Wind & Fire Experience, Brian Blade & The Fellowship Band and dozens more.

z Jerusalem Wine Festival

The Israel Museum opens its art garden up for four days each year for the Jerusalem Wine Festival. The event usually coincides with the Jewish calendar date of Tu B’Av (Israel’s Valentine’s Day). Tickets include unlimited samples from Israel’s leading wineries and live music performances.

September

It’s back to school for local children, so fewer families are travelling, though accommodation prices skyrocket at Rosh HaShanah and during Sukkot. Flights are often full around Rosh HaShanah and Yom Kippur.

1 Rosh HaShanah

Rosh HaShanah, Jewish New Year, is a huge family event. Almost all shops and restaurants close from the first evening, so travellers need to prepare or get an invite to a family meal. Many locals go on holiday or visit folks out of town. There are no big street parties, but in some recent years, nightclubs such as Block in Tel Aviv have held special DJ nights.

October

The start of autumn, though most days are dry and sunny. Accommodation prices skyrocket if the Sukkot holiday season falls in this month. Can can be chilly in the north and in Jerusalem.

1 Yom Kippur

The Day of Atonement is the most solemn day in the Jewish calendar. Traditionally a time for reflection and 25-hour fasting, synagogues are open all day for prayers, culminating in the blowing of the shofar (ram’s horn). In Tel Aviv, it’s a day where children cycle on the empty roads and tourists can experience a rare moment of silence without any cars. Yom Kippur has a huge effect on travellers: in Jewish areas, all businesses close (even the AM:PM stores), and transportation completely ceases. Make travel arrangements before or after, as Israel’s airports and land borders close as well.

1 Sukkot

If you’re in Israel during the week-long Feast of the Tabernacles, you’ll see lots of foliage-roofed huts or tents temporarily erected on street corners, where you can stop by and even have a picnic. These tents represent the Israelites’ 40 years of wandering in the desert. It’s also the major autumn harvest festival, so the first and seventh days are public holidays with shop closures. The last day, Simhat Torah, marks the end of the Jews’ annual cycle of reading the Torah and sees dancing in synagogues, particularly in Jerusalem. As Israelis are off work, many special exhibitions and musical festivals are held during Sukkot.

z Tamar Festival

One of Israel’s biggest music festivals, Tamar is a gathering of some of the region’s best-known acts each year during the Sukkot holiday week. Live concerts happen atop Masada late at night until sunrise with views over the red-rock desert and Dead Sea. Festival goers can camp or stay at one of the hotels along Ein Bokek beach.

z InDNegev Festival

InDNegev (nicknamed Indie Negev, www.indnegev.co.il) is a large annual music festival held in mid-October. Spread over three days in Mitzpe Gvulot, 30km west of Be’er Sheva in the Negev, more than 100 live gigs from Israel’s best underground acts are on the roster. As the name suggests, there’s plenty of indie rock bands but also hip hop, psychedelic, electronica and more.

2 Sovev TLV

The city of Tel Aviv goes bicycle-crazy for a few days leading up to Sovev TLV. The event culminates in a 42km bike ride that starts at dawn on a Friday morning in mid-October. Many inner-city roads and highways are closed for the main event, which welcomes cyclists and offers courses for children and skaters.

November

Sometimes rainy and chilly but frequently sunny, especially on the coast and at the Dead Sea and in Eilat. Jerusalem and highland areas can be cold and days are shorter. Low-season prices.

1 Yitzhak Rabin Memorial Day

A large peace rally at Tel Aviv’s Rabin Sq every November commemorates the assassination of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin on 4 November 1995 by a far-right Israeli angered by the leader’s efforts to secure peace with the Palestinians. The event has speeches in Hebrew, and music is performed. The tone is defiant but sad, as for many peace seems like a distant dream.

3 Jerusalem International Oud Festival

This music festival is dedicated to the oud, a Middle Eastern guitar-like instrument. The Jerusalem International Oud Festival (www.confederationhouse.org) is held over 10 days at the Confederation House Centre for Ethnic Music and Poetry and other venues in the city.

December

Sometimes rainy and chilly but not infrequently sunny and even warm. Low-season accommodation prices except in Christian areas around Christmas, when rooms can be exceptionally hard to come by. Days are short.

1 Hanukkah

The Jewish Festival of Light is a beautiful time to visit. For eight nights, Jews celebrate by lighting candles using a nine-branched candelabra. In most city centres, there are candle-lighting services and bakeries are stocked full of doughnuts of all varieties. Shops and businesses are open throughout Hanukkah.

z Holiday of the Holy Days

Haifa’s Wadi Nisnas neighbourhood celebrates Hanukkah, Christmas and the season’s Muslim holidays with art, children’s plays and music over the last three weekends in December. Besides the concerts, usually held at Beit Hagefen Cultural Center, travellers can browse a unique Arab-style Christmas market.

1 Christmas

One of the most important pilgrimages for Christians is the journey to Bethlehem at Christmas. The main attraction is the Church of Nativity and the giant Christmas tree in Manger Sq. Elsewhere in Israel and the Palestinian Territories, it’s a regular working day (unless on Shabbat), so all shops are open and transport is running. Pilgrims can also attend services at churches in Jerusalem and Nazareth. In recent years, some Israeli shops have put up Christmas decorations, cafes sometimes serve mulled wine and there’s also a large Christmas tree at Jaffa’s Clock Tower. Orthodox Christians celebrate in early January.

Itineraries

Best of Israel

2 WEEKS

A whirlwind introduction to Israel’s most important historical, religious and natural sights.

Spend your first four days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days wandering the alleys of the Old City, exploring the Western Wall and the adjacent Temple Mount/Al Haram Ash Sharif, and following the Via Dolorosa to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Break out your swimsuit and hiking shoes for a full-day excursion down to the Dead Sea and up the storied stronghold of Masada. Next, head to the Mediterranean coast for three days around Tel Aviv, dividing your time between strolling, cycling, lounging on the beach, fine dining and watching the world go by. Next, head up the coast for a peek at Roman-era Caesarea before pushing on to Haifa. Check out the views from atop Mt Carmel and the Baha’i Gardens before a day trip to the walled city of Akko and the grottoes of Rosh HaNikra. After a day in Nazareth, concluded with a tongue-tingling ‘fusion’ dinner, head to Tiberias for a day exploring the storied shores of the Sea of Galilee. On the drive back to Jerusalem, stop at the Roman ruins in Beit She’an.

Itineraries

Israeli Odyssey

4 WEEKS

Explore the best Israel has to offer from the Lebanese border to the Red Sea.

After four or five days in and around Jerusalem, including a couple of days exploring the Old City and a half-day visit to the Israel Museum, take a trip down to the wondrous caves at Beit Guvrin–Maresha National Park, stopping at a winery on the way. Next, stir it up in Tel Aviv for a few days, strolling along the beachfront promenade to historic Jaffa, biking along the Yarkon River and working on your Mediterranean tan. On your way north to Haifa, stop at the Roman ruins of Caesarea and the quaint old town of Zichron Ya’akov, famed for its vintage winery. After touring Haifa’s sublime Baha’i Gardens, visit Mt Carmel and the Druze village of Daliyat Al Karmel. The next day, continue north to Akko, with its enchanting mixture of Crusader ruins and Ottoman relics. Next, go as far north as politics permit, to the subterranean grottoes of Rosh HaNikra, before heading inland for a couple of days in Nazareth, exploring Christian sites and dining on traditional Arab delicacies and East-West fusion dishes. Based in Tiberias for a couple of days, relax around the Sea of Galilee, combining ancient synagogues and Christian sites with quiet beaches and, perhaps, white-water rafting on the Jordan River. Loop east to the Golan Heights, visiting the hilltop ruins of Gamla, the Golan Archaeological Museum in Katzrin and towering Nimrod Fortress. Circle west via the lush vegetation of Banias Nature Reserve to the wetlands of the Hula Valley, beloved by migrating birds; the quaint, cobbled streets of Rosh Pina; and Tsfat, suffused with the spirituality of the Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism). Finally, head south through the Jordan Valley, strolling the colonnaded Roman thoroughfares of Beit She’an. After a starlit night on the shores of the Dead Sea, rise early to catch the sunrise from high atop Masada. Continue south into the Negev Desert for a day or two around Mitzpe Ramon, including a hike into Makhtesh Ramon. The last stop, for a spot of sea, sun and snorkelling, is Eilat.

Itineraries

Culinary Trail

10 DAYS

From simple hummus to Arab- and French-inspired gourmet meals, this tour of gastronomic hot spots takes in the Holy Land’s most delicious dishes.

Start in Jerusalem, where contenders for the ‘best hummus’ title can be found in the Old City, and the foodie scene around the Mahane Yehuda produce market is worth exploring. For the country’s best gooey-hot, cheesy-sweet kunafeh pastry, head north to the West Bank city of Nablus and then sample extra-virgin olive oil in Jenin. Make a beeline for Nazareth, where the buzzword is fusion. Continue your culinary pilgrimage on the shores of the Sea of Galilee with a lunch of St Peter’s fish and then head to the Golan Heights for perfectly aged steak – paired, of course, with Golan red wines. Looping west, stop in Jish for Galilee-style Arab cuisine or drop by the all-vegetarian settlement of Amirim. Finally, head to the Mediterranean coast, sampling seafood and hummus in Akko, creative Arab cuisine in Haifa, and modern Israeli cuisine in Tel Aviv, where glam restaurants run by celebrity chefs vie for attention with traditional eateries serving hummus, falafel and the local fast-food favourite, sabich.

Spices, Mahane Yehuda Market, Jerusalem | DELTAOFF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Welcome to the West Bank

1 WEEK

This route takes you to the major Palestinian cities and sights.

Start off at the Yasser Arafat Museum in Ramallah before jumping on a sherut up to Taybeh to check out the West Bank’s oldest brewery for an hour or two. Spend your first evening either bar-hopping in Ramallah or hanging out with the locals in the cafes close to Manara Sq. The next day jump on a bus to Nablus for a day of shopping in its enchanting market, scrubbing up at an ancient hammam and visiting the Samaritans atop Mt Gerizim. Up early the next day, grab a service to Jenin and check out the Freedom Theatre and then either head back to Ramallah or spend a day staying with farmers near the northern village of Burqi’in. Take a service to Jericho for a full day of sightseeing (perhaps two, if you want to see everything). End your trip with a couple of nights Bethlehem, with its winding lanes and ancient churches, and a day trip to the troubled city of Hebron, profoundly sacred to both Jews and Muslims.

Tomb of Yasser Arafat, Ramallah | ANDREW V MARCUS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Activities

Israel’s diverse topography in relation to its small size makes the country an excellent place for activities, from desert cycling to mountain hiking to water sports. Israelis are generally very outdoorsy, so infrastructure and facilities are top notch.

Top Short Hikes

Ein Gedi Nature Reserve Thanks to year-round springs, two canyons overlooking the arid Dead Sea are lush with vegetation. A great place to spot ibex.

Banias Nature Reserve Gushing springs, waterfalls and tree-shaded streams - plus a Roman palace complex.

Majrase Nature Reserve Tramp through water and dense reeds in the Sea of Galilee’s north-eastern corner.

Wadi Qelt Hike through a spring-fed canyon to St George’s Monastery, built into the cliff face in the 5th century.

Yehudiya Nature Reserve A variety of day hikes, from two park entrances, take you through dramatic wadis on the Golan.

Montfort Castle An impressive Crusader castle overlooking the Western Galilee and the Mediterranean.

Archaeological Digs

For details on archaeological digs that welcome paying volunteers, check out these websites:

Biblical Archaeology Society (http://digs.bib-arch.org/digs)

Hebrew University of Jerusalem (http://archaeology.huji.ac.il/excavations/excavations.asp)

Israeli Foreign Ministry (www.mfa.gov.il) Search for ‘archaeological excavations’.

Birdwatching

The Mediterranean coast, the Galilee’s Hula Valley and the Eilat area are some of the world’s foremost venues for birding. Gatherings of twitchers (birdwatchers) include the Hula Valley Bird Festival and the Eilat Bird Festival (www.birds.org.il).

Cycling

Mountain biking has become hugely popular in Israel. Many cycling trails go through forests managed by the Jewish National Fund (www.kkl.org.il); for details, click ‘Cycling Routes’ on its website. Shvil Net (www.shvilnet.co.il) publishes Hebrew-language cycling guides that include detailed topographical maps.

Races are regularly held in locales such as the Dead Sea; many are sponsored by the Israel Cycling Federation (www.israelcycling.org.il). There is also a variety of annual long-distance rides. Israel Spokes (www.israelspokes.com) is a cycling organisation that runs group rides. Popular Hebrew-only cycling forums, great for finding local clubs, group rides and equipment, include Shvoong (www.shvoong.co.il), Groopy (http://groopy.co.il) and Harim (www.harim.co.il).

Companies and cycling groups that organise rides and tours around Israel:

Cyclenix (www.cyclenix.com)

EcoBike Cycling Vacations (www.ecobikes.co.il)

Genesis Cycling (www.genesiscycling.com)

Israel Cycling Tours (www.israelcycling.com)

Israel Pedals (www.israelpedals.co.il)

SK Bike Tours (www.skbike.co.il)

Mountain biking, Timna Park | NIKA LERMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hiking

With its unbelievably diverse terrain – ranging from the alpine slopes of Mt Hermon to the parched wadis of the Negev – and almost 10,000km of marked trails, Israel offers some truly superb hiking. The country gets little or no rain for at least half the year so Israelis can plan outings without having to worry about getting rained on. Whenever you hit the trails, don’t forget to bring a hat and plenty of water, and plan your day so you can make it back before dark.

At many national parks and nature reserves (www.parks.org.il), basic walking maps with English text are handed out when you pay your admission fee. In other areas, the best maps to have – in part because they indicate the precise boundaries of minefields and live-fire zones used for army training – are the 1:50,000-scale topographical maps produced by the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI), sold at bookshops, SPNI field schools and some nature reserves.

The website www.tiuli.com has details in English on the hiking options around the country (the Hebrew website is much more extensive). The SPNI’s Mokedteva (www.mokedteva.co.il) has up-to-date information in Hebrew on weather, hiking routes, trail difficulty, trail closures and special events.

In the Palestinian Territories, for security reasons it’s generally not a good idea to wander around the countryside unaccompanied. Consult local organisations such as Walk Palestine (www.walkpalestine.com) to find a guide and for up-to-date information on areas considered safe; Jericho and environs are usually a good bet.

Popular long-distance trails (from north to south):

Israel National Trail (Shvil Yisra’el; www.israelnationaltrail.com) Rambles for 940km through Israel’s least-populated and most-scenic areas, from Kibbutz Dan in the north to Taba on the Red Sea.

Sea-to-Sea Hike (Masa MiYam l’Yam; www.touristisrael.com/yam-lyam-hike) A 70km route from the Mediterranean (Achziv Beach) to the Sea of Galilee (near Ginnosar) via Mt Meron and Amud Stream. Takes three to five days.

Jesus Trail (www.jesustrail.com) A 65km route from Nazareth’s Church of the Annunciation to Capernaum. Passes through Christian, Jewish, Muslim, Bedouin and Druze communities.

Gospel Trail (www.goisrael.com) The Israeli Ministry of Tourism’s 63km-long version of the Jesus Trail runs from Nazareth’s Mt Precipice to Capernaum, avoiding built-up areas.

Sea of Galilee Circuit (Shvil Sovev Kineret, Kinneret Trail) Circumnavigates the Sea of Galilee. Of the planned 60km, 45km have so far been marked with white-purple-white trail blazes.

Nativity Trail Stretches 160km from Nazareth to Bethlehem, mostly through the beautiful landscapes of the northern West Bank. Must be done with a guide – for details, contact Hijazi Travel (http://hijazih.wordpress.com), Walk Palestine (www.walkpalestine.com) or Green Olive Tours (www.toursinenglish.com).

Abraham Path (Masar Ibrahim Al Khalil; www.masaribrahim.ps, www.abrahampath.org) It may be many years before this planned trans–Middle Eastern walking trail is fully operational, but one section that’s already open goes from Nabus via Jericho to Hebron.

Jerusalem Trail A 42km circuit connecting the Israel National Trail with Jerusalem, meandering through the Jerusalem Hills and around the Old City.

Hiking in the Negev | LEOSPEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Scuba Diving

The Red Sea has some of the world’s most spectacular and species-rich coral reefs. Good-value scuba courses and dive packages are available in Eilat, but the underwater life is a lot more dazzling across the Egyptian border in Sinai – however, the US, the UK and Australia recommend avoiding all travel to Sinai, except by air to Sharm El Sheikh. The waters of the Mediterranean aren’t nearly as colourful, but at places like Caesarea you can explore Atlantis-like ancient ruins.

Windsurfing

The country offers world-class sailing conditions. Popular venues include the Mediterranean coast, the Red Sea and even the Sea of Galilee.

Plan Your Trip

Shabbat

For Jews both religious and nonreligious, Shabbat, the day of rest, is a time for family. Across the country, Israeli Jews will sit down together on Friday evening for the lighting of candles, the blessing of wine and a festive dinner. For tourists, the Shabbat can range from mild inconvenience (not being able to find anywhere to eat) to potential disaster (finding yourself unable to get public transport back to your accommodation). But it is also a memorable part of any visit.

The Laws of Shabbat

On the Sabbath, observant Jews refrain from performing 39 ‘creative activities’, including lighting or extinguishing fires, using electricity, travelling by motorised vehicle, writing, cooking, baking, sewing, harvesting, doing business, handling money, and transporting objects between private and public spaces.

Airports & Public Transport

Israel’s airports operate as usual on Shabbat. However, most inter- and intra-city buses and trains – including transport to/from the airports – cease operation from Friday afternoon until sometime on Saturday afternoon (bus services often begin several hours before sundown). Some local buses operate in mixed Jewish-Arab cities such as Haifa.

Border Crossings & West Bank Checkpoints

Checkpoints between Israel and the West Bank and border crossings with Jordan and Egypt remain open on Shabbat, but can be busy because of heavy traffic (particularly at Jalameh in the West Bank). The Allenby Crossing with Jordan closes early on Friday and Saturday afternoons so arrive early to avoid getting stuck on either side of the border.

Shabbat Observance

Shabbat begins 18 minutes before sundown on Friday (36 minutes in Jerusalem) and ends an hour after sundown on Saturday night (technically, until three stars can be seen in the heavens, according to Jewish law). During this time, the streets of many Israeli cities – including mostly secular Tel Aviv – have noticeably less traffic, but few Israeli Jews, except for the Orthodox, follow Sabbath prohibitions.

Because Israel is both religiously and culturally diverse, the impact of Shabbat varies from place to place. In Tel Aviv, Friday is one of the biggest nights for dining out, cultural events and bar-hopping. Majority-Arab cities and areas such as Nazareth, Akko and Jaffa are unaffected (although Friday is the Muslim day of rest so it can be quieter than usual), as is Arab East Jerusalem.

The best places to observe a traditional Shabbat are in Tsfat and Jerusalem, where it is ushered in by a long blast on a horn that reverberates throughout the city. It is a fascinating time to be in the Old City, where Haredi men and boys, with their black suits and ringlets, rush to the Western Wall in time for sunset prayers.

Because the impact of Shabbat isn’t universal across the country, we’ve ranked how strictly Shabbat is observed in each region, with 5 being the most observant and 1 being the least.

Jerusalem

Shabbat is when the division between kosher and nonkosher (observant vs non-observant) restaurants in Jerusalem really comes to the fore: the former will close their doors mid-afternoon on Friday and in some cases will not open until Sunday. This includes most eateries in West Jerusalem, including on Jaffa St, although there are some exceptions. In some hotels, the front desk will shut down (to avoid the restrictions on working and handling money) and staff may ask you to settle your bill before sunset on Friday.

There are no buses on Shabbat, although sheruts still run. Taxis are relatively plentiful but official fares are 25% higher than on weekdays, and drivers are even less likely than usual to use the meter. It is advisable to catch a cab in the east of the city to get a reasonable price. The Nesher service between Jerusalem and Ben Gurion Airport runs on Shabbat, as do the sheruts to Tel Aviv, but they leave from Jaffa St, to the west of the Jerusalem Hostel.

Be warned that driving through Orthodox neighbourhoods on Shabbat is not only ill-advised but can be dangerous: many of the streets are barricaded and youths have been known to throw stones at cars.

Score 5/5

Tel Aviv

Although the city is proudly secular, visitors to Tel Aviv will still feel the impact of Shabbat. The streets are noticeably quieter, and some bus lines are replaced with sheruts. Getting to the airport usually involves taking a taxi (250NIS), worth bearing in mind if you book a flight on a Saturday.

Most bars and restaurants remain open and Jaffa is almost entirely unaffected.

Score 2/5

North Coast

In Haifa and Akko, it is possible to not even notice Shabbat, with Haifa’s nightlife pounding on regardless and Akko’s large Muslim population meaning there is little interruption to services. On the other hand, Zichron Ya’akov will feel strongly observant, and the Holocaust memorials at Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta’ot are closed.

Score 2/5

WHAT’S OPEN ON SHABBAT

For practical information on how to handle Shabbat in Jerusalem and around the country, see here and here.

Lower Galilee

Everything in Nazareth is open, but Tiberias mostly shuts down except for a handful of restaurants. All the tourist sites around the Sea of Galilee (Christian sites, national parks, nature reserves, paid-for and free beaches) are open, though beaches can be crowded. Heading to Nazareth for dinner on Friday night is a good option, but traffic jams can be a nightmare.

Score 3/5

Upper Galilee & Golan

Tsfat is completely closed on Shabbat, as are the wineries of the Dalton Plateau. Rosh Pina is mostly open and so are the nature reserves of the Hula Valley and along the Lebanese border. Most restaurants are also open. On the Golan, Katzrin is shut except for two restaurants, but the many nature reserves and almost all tourist sites are open, as are the Druze villages.

Score 3/5

Dead Sea

Virtually everything is open, including nature reserves, restaurants, shops and beaches.

Score 1/5

The Negev

Virtually everything in Eilat is open (Israelis hardly come to beach-party central to rest), and visitors are unlikely to notice Shabbat on the Red Sea coast. In Be’er Sheva, while most tourist sites are open, the city itself, including shops, public transport and some restaurants, is closed. Mitzpe Ramon has a fair bit to do on Friday night and Saturday. Nature reserves are open.

Score 2/5

Plan Your Trip

Crossing Borders

Israel may be at peace with two of its four Arab neighbours (Egypt and Jordan), but its border crossings are still heavily militarised and can be intimidating and challenging places to enter and exit the country. Most visitors receive a visa on arrival when entering Israel by land from Jordan and Egypt, but regulations going the other way (particularly entering Jordan from Israel) change frequently. It’s always best to check with your hotel or hostel before turning up at the border. It is not possible or advisable to cross by air, land or sea into Lebanon or Syria.

Peaceful Borders

The borders between Israel and the two countries with which it has signed peace treaties, Egypt and Jordan, are open to both tourists and locals. Note that most Western governments advise against all travel to northern Sinai because of attacks against tourists by radical Islamists.

Blue, Purple & Green Lines

The UN-certified international border between Israel and Lebanon is known as the Blue Line; the Israeli-Syrian ceasefire line of 1974 is known as the Purple Line; and the pre-1967 border between Israel and the West Bank is known as the Green Line.

Border History

Britain and France determined the future borders of Palestine, Syria, Lebanon, Transjordan (Jordan) and Iraq in the secret Sykes-Picot Agreement of 1916.

Planning Your Crossing

Visas, Security & Entry Stamps

For