Lonely Planet Bolivia

Bolivia

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Bolivia

Bolivia’s Top 12

Need to Know

First Time Bolivia

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Bolivia Outdoors

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

La Paz & Around

La Paz

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around La Paz

Valle de la Luna

Muela del Diablo

Mecapaca

Valle de las Ánimas

Cañón de Palca

Cerro Chacaltaya

Tiwanaku

La Paz Markets

Lake Titicaca

Copacabana

Copacabana to Yampupata

Isla del Sol

Isla de la Luna

Huatajata

Islas de Wiñaymarka

Isla Kalahuta

Isla Pariti

Isla Suriqui

The Cordilleras & Yungas

Cordillera Real

Huayna Potosí

Condoriri Massif

Ancohuma

Illimani

Chachacomani

The Yungas

Coroico & Yolosa

El Choro Trek

Takesi Trek

Yunga Cruz Trek

Chulumani

Around Chulumani

Guanay

El Camino del Oro

Sorata

Aucapata & Iskanwaya

Cordillera Apolobamba

Charazani

Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional Apolobamba

Cordillera Quimsa Cruz

Southern Altiplano

Oruro & the North

Oruro

Around Oruro

Curahuara de Carangas

Parque Nacional Sajama

Uyuni & the Southwest Circuit

Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni

Los Lípez

Tupiza & Around

Tupiza

Around Tupiza

Central Highlands

Cochabamba

Around Cochabamba

Parque Nacional Tunari

Eastern Cochabamba Valley

Tarata & Huayculli

Incallajta

Totora

Mizque

Parque Nacional Torotoro

Sucre

Around Sucre

Tarabuco

Cordillera de los Frailes

Potosí

South Central Bolivia & The Chaco

South Central Bolivia

Tarija

El Valle de la Concepción

Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama

Padcaya & Chaguaya

The Chaco

Villamontes

Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania

Santa Cruz

Around Santa Cruz

Buena Vista

Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró

Samaipata

Vallegrande

La Higuera

Gran Chiquitania

Jesuit Mission Circuit

Amazon Basin

Chapare Region

Villa Tunari

Parque Nacional Carrasco

Puerto Villarroel

Western Bolivian Amazon

Rurrenabaque

Parque Nacional Madidi

San Borja

Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni

San Ignacio de Moxos

Eastern Bolivian Amazon

Trinidad

Northern Bolivian Amazon

Santa Ana de Yacuma

Barba Azul Reserve

Guayaramerín

Riberalta

Riberalta to Cobija

Cobija

Understand

Bolivia Today

History

Life in Bolivia

Indigenous Culture

Music in Bolivia

The Natural World

Survival Guide

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Consulates & Embassies

Discount Cards

Electricity

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Shopping

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Work

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land & River

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Local Transportation

Tours

Train

Health

Before You Go

Insurance

In Bolivia

Healthcare

Infectious Diseases

Traveler’s Diarrhea

Environmental Hazards

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Bolivia

Superlative in its natural beauty, rugged, vexing, complex and slightly nerve-racking, Bolivia is one of South America’s most diverse and intriguing nations.

Adventure

Bolivia is not for the faint of heart: rattling down the World’s Most Dangerous Road into sultry Yungas; soaring breathless above verdant La Paz valleys in a paraglider; jumping on a horse for a Wild West adventure near Tupiza; pulling a catfish that outweighs you out of an Amazon river (and maybe cooking it for dinner!). Whether your tools are crampons and an ice axe for scaling 6000m Andean peaks, or a helmet and bravado for jumping into the abyss on a glider, Bolivia’s rocks, rivers and ravines will challenge – nay, provoke – you into pushing your own personal limits.

Culture

Bolivians love a parade, and hardly a month passes without a procession of brightly costumed celebrants honoring an important historical date or deity. You’ll hear them from blocks away before the brass bands and whirligigging dancers approach and envelop you (you may even get to join in). Learn about the history and culture of the country’s indigenous peoples at excellent museums, and through the continued presence of traditions and customs in everyday life. Bolivia has South America’s largest percentage of indigenous people – get to know them better by participating in community-based tourism and hiring local guides.

Nature

Bolivia is so biodioverse that unique species are being discovered to this day. Tiptoe into caves of tube-lipped nectar bats, their tongues probing the darkness. Tread lightly on the terrain of the poisonous annellated coral snake, deadly in look and effect. Listen for the cackling call and response of a dozen different macaw species (among 1000 bird species) including the world’s rarest, the bluebeard, which can only be found here. Multihued butterflies and moths flit at your feet in the jungle; lithe alpacas and vicuñas stand out in the stark altiplano. Deep in the forest live jaguars, pumas and bears.

Food & Drink

Ever had a llama tenderloin? Here’s your chance, maybe with a glass of Tarija wine. Bolivia’s food is as diverse as its peoples and you’ll find new delicacies to sample in every town. Markets are a good place to start, though the steaming pots of unfamiliar concoctions might test your nerve. Freshly blended fruit juices will no doubt become a daily habit, and Yungas coffee can be found in a number of new cafes that are popping up around Bolivia. La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz have thriving restaurant scenes where you can sample contemporary takes on traditional local dishes.

Traditional dance performance on Isla del Sol | JESS KRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Bolivia

By Isabel Albiston, Writer

My first impressions of La Paz are imprinted on my mind: steep narrow streets, piercing blue skies, colorful textiles, popcorn vendors in pigeon-filled squares. What I took to be a parade (people in traditional Andean dress with drums) turned out to be a political protest. I was hooked! In Bolivia, traditional life is interspersed with 21st-century modernity like a mixed-up pack of photographs. It’s a country of sublime landscapes, where true adventures are possible in a way that often eludes travelers. The swaths of wildlife-filled forests and the immensity of the mountains always draw me back.

For more, see Our Writers

Bolivia’s Top 12

Salar de Uyuni

Who knew feeling this cold could feel so good? While a three- to four-day jeep tour through the world’s largest salt flat will leave your bones chattering, it could quite possibly be the defining experience of your Bolivian adventure. The vastness, austerity and crystalline perfection of the salt flat will inspire you. An early-morning exploration of rock gardens, geyser fields and piping-hot springs along with the camaraderie of three days on the road with your fellow ‘Salterians’ will create a lasting memory.

SERGIO PESSOLANO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Parque Nacional Madidi

Perhaps the most biodiverse area on the planet, Parque Nacional Madidi encompasses a spellbinding range of habitats, from Andean mountains to steamy lowland rainforests, home to an astonishing array of wildlife. Take it all in on guided rainforest walks and boat trips on the river before bedding down for the night at one of several community-run ecolodges. Here the cinematic beauty of the surroundings is enhanced by a soundtrack of birdsong at dawn, the buzzing of insects, the call of the howler monkey and the croaking of frogs.

JESS KRAFT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Trekking in the Cordillera Real

Walk in the path of the Incas along the many trekking routes that weave their way from the Andes into the Amazon Basin, through the remarkable skyward-bound wilderness of the Cordillera Real. These four- to 14-day treks are no small undertaking, but it will be worth every step, every drop of sweat and every blister. Along the way, you’ll have the chance to dine with locals, cool off beside cascading waterfalls and connect with Pachamama (Mother Earth) deep within her potent green realm.

EVGENY SUBBOTSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca

Plopped onto sprawling Lake Titicaca like the cherry on an ice-cream sundae, Isla del Sol is considered the birthplace of Andean civilization. You can easily spend four days here, tracking down forgotten Inca roads to small archaeological sites, remote coves and intact indigenous communities. At the end of the day, take in the sunset with a cerveza (beer) from your ridgetop lodge. The lake itself has a magnetism, power and energy unique to this world – no wonder many claim the ancient civilization of Atlantis was found here.

VADIM NEFEDOFF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

La Paz Markets

The whirling engine that feeds and fuels a nation, the markets of La Paz are so crazy, so disjointed, so colorful and mad and stinky and remarkable that you’ll end up spending at least a few afternoons wandering from stall to stall. There are sections for food, sections for sorcery, sections where you can buy back your stolen camera, sections for pipes and Styrofoam – in every shape and form imaginable – and sections packed with fruits, flowers and rotting fish that will push you to olfactory overload.

ANDREANORD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sucre

Glistening in the Andean sun, the white city of Sucre is the birthplace of the nation and a must-see for any visitor to Bolivia. Occupying a lush valley, surrounded by mountains, it’s an eclectic mix of the old and the new. Here you can while away your days perusing historic buildings and museums, and spend your nights enjoying the city’s famous nightlife. Visitors to Sucre invariably fall in love with the place.

Universidad San Francisco Xavier, home to the Museos Universitarios | ALEJANDRO ZEBALLOS/500PX ©

Top Experiences

Samaipata

Cosmopolitan Samaipata manages to retain the air of a relaxing mountain village, despite becoming an increasingly unmissable stop on the Bolivian tourist trail. But it’s not just the rolling valley views, pleasant climate, great-value accommodations and top-class restaurants that bring in the visitors. Samaipata’s proximity to the mystical El Fuerte ruins and a series of worthy day trips to nearby areas of outstanding natural beauty mean that many visitors find themselves staying for a lot longer than they planned.

ELISA LOCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tupiza

Cut from the pages of a Wild West novel, the canyon country around Tupiza is an awesome place for heading off into the sunset (in a saddle, atop a mountain bike, on foot or in a 4WD). From town you can ramble out into the polychromatic desert wonderlands and canyons, visiting hard-cut mining villages and the town where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their end. The pleasant weather and lyrical feel of the town make it a welcome retreat after a bit of hardship in the highlands.

JESS KRAFT/500PX ©

Top Experiences

Wine Tasting near Tarija

Take a deep breath of the thin mountain air and prepare to get dizzy sampling wine from the world’s highest vineyards, in Tarija. Produced in a Mediterranean climate at altitudes of up to 2400m, these wines are sold throughout Bolivia and have received international plaudits for their fresh, aromatic taste. Whether you prefer tinto, rosado or blanco (red, rosé or white), you are likely to be pleasantly surprised by the quality on offer and may find yourself taking a bottle or two home for your friends.

AFP/STRINGER ©

Top Experiences

Tiwanaku

Bolivia’s hallmark archaeological site sets your imagination on fire. Despite lacking the power and prestige of other ruins in Latin America – those who have visited Machu Picchu or Tikal will be hard pressed not to strike comparisons – for history buffs this pre-Inca site has a lot to offer. A massive celebration is held on the solstices, and the on-site museum provides a thought-provoking glimpse into life in this religious and astronomical center. An easy day trip from La Paz, Tiwanaku is a good place to start your Andean odyssey.

DANIEL NISTTAHUZ/500PX ©

Top Experiences

Potosí

Said to be the highest city in the world, Potosí once sat upon a land laden with silver that funded the Spanish empire for centuries. Though the silver mines lie barren, the remnants of the wealthy past can still be seen through the cracked brickwork of the ornate colonial-era buildings and wonderfully preserved churches. Potosí’s most famous museum, the Casa Nacional de la Moneda, was once Bolivia’s national mint and offers a fascinating insight into the rise and fall of a city that once described itself as ‘the envy of kings.’

NORADOA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Jesuit Mission Circuit

Though traveling around the mission circuit is a challenge in itself, the fantastically ornate reconstructions of Jesuit churches that are the centerpieces of the villages along the route make it well worth the effort. Lovingly restored by professional artisans and historians to offer a glimpse of their former glory, the churches of the mission circuit are testimony to the efforts of the missionaries who, against all odds, managed to establish communities in remote Chiquitania before being expelled from the Spanish colonies in 1767.

San José de Chiquitos | NORADOA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide.

Currency

Boliviano (B$)

Languages

Spanish, Quechua and Aymará

Visas

US citizens need a visa to visit Bolivia. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and most European countries do not need a visa.

Money

Cash is king, dollars are better than euros; watch for counterfeits. ATMs and credit cards accepted in cities and many towns.

Time

One hour ahead of US Eastern Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus four hours)

Cell Phones

Cellular SIM cards are cheap, include credit and are available from larger carrier outlets as well as small private phone shops.

Make sure your phone has triband network capabilities.

When to Go

High Season (May–Oct)

A Mostly sunny days throughout Bolivia but cooler in the altiplano.

A Reliable weather means easier transit, and better climbing, trekking and mountain biking.

A Higher prices for tours and accommodations.

Shoulder (Oct–Nov)

A Spring draws in and temperatures begin to rise, though the weather is mostly dry.

A A great time to visit the Salar de Uyuni.

A Crowds begin to disperse; a good time for budget hunters.

Low Season (Nov–Apr)

A Summer is rainy season; it can be miserable in the lowlands.

A Overland transportation becomes difficult where the roads are unpaved.

A Climbing is dangerous, and trekking and biking tedious.

Useful Websites

Bolivia.com (www.bolivia.com, in Spanish) News and cultural information.

Bolivian Express (www.bolivianexpress.org) English magazine focusing on cultural coverage.

Bolivia Online (www.bolivia-online.net) Solid portal in English, Spanish and German.

Bolivia en Tus Manos (Bolivia in Your Hands, www.boliviaentusmanos.com, in Spanish) News, culture and tourism site.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/bolivia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: less than B$200

A Dorm/budget beds: B$40–70

A Bread for breakfast, set lunch, dinner supplies bought in local market: B$50

A Museum admission, limited tours: B$125

A 2nd-class transit: B$70–100

Midrange: B$200–650

A Midrange hotel: B$160–400

A Hotel breakfast, lunch and dinner in a restaurant: B$200

A Extra cash for beers, guided trips, excursions: B$300

A 1st-class transit: B$150–200

Top end: more than B$650

A Top-end hotel: B$400

A Breakfast buffet, lunch and dinner at high-end restaurant: B$250

A Plenty of extra cash for guided trips: B$300–400

A 1st-class transit and air transfers: B$300–500

Opening Hours

Banks Standard hours 9am–4pm or 6pm Monday to Friday, and 10am–noon or 5pm Saturday.

Shops Weekdays 10am–7pm but sometimes close for lunch noon–2pm. Open 10am–noon or 5pm Saturdays.

Restaurants Hours vary, but are generally open for breakfast (8am–10am), lunch (noon–3pm) and dinner (6pm–10pm or 11pm) daily.

Arriving in Bolivia

El Alto International Airport, La Paz A taxi costs B$70 (US$10) to the city center. Minibuses charge B$3.80 (US$0.50) during the day. Note that the airport is at a high altitude (4050m).

Viru-Viru International, Santa Cruz A taxi costs B$70 (US$10) to the city center. Alternatively take the minibus, which charges B$6 (US$1) to the city center.

Jorge Wilstermann International Airport, Cochabamba Micro B (B$2) shuttles between the airport and the main plaza. Taxis to or from the center cost B$25 to B$30.

Getting Around

Air Air travel is the quickest and most reliable way to reach out-of-the-way places, and it’s reasonably inexpensive.

Bus The most popular form of transport; it can be uncomfortable and at times nerve-racking, but it’s cheap and relatively safe.

Tours Popular and hassle-free way to get to remote locations like the Salar de Uyuni.

Train Around the same price as the bus, but much slower. It does, however, offer heating and air-conditioning.

For much more, see Getting Around

First Time Bolivia

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Check the up-to-date visa requirements for your country

A Get any vaccinations you might need

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date

A Check the airline baggage restrictions

A Arrange for appropriate travel insurance

A Check your debit and credit card will work abroad

What to Pack

A Proof of vaccination for yellow fever

A Copy of your passport

A Plug adapter

A Binoculars for wildlife watching

A Headlamp

A Sleeping bag for the altiplano

A Sunscreen and a hat

A First-aid kit and bug spray

A Ear plugs

A Small padlock

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Allow yourself plenty of time to acclimatize to the altitude. Go up slowly and take it easy when you reach new heights.

A Even a little Spanish will be a huge help in Bolivia. If you can, take some classes before you travel.

A Prepare yourself for sometimes challenging but always rewarding travel experiences. Your trip will go more smoothly if you are patient and flexible.

A Allow time in your schedule for unexpected delays. Keep an eye on the news and ask locals about potential bloqueos (road closures caused by protesters) that might affect your travel plans.

A Stay away from political protests. They might pique your interest, but clashes could happen at any time.

A Be respectful of local people and don’t take photographs without asking permission, no matter how tempting it is to take a snap of someone in traditional dress.

What to Wear

Bolivia is a tough travel destination with a climate that can swing from extremely cold to extremely hot to extremely wet in just a few hours or kilometers. It’s best to be practical when deciding on clothes, and wear whatever will make you most comfortable and keep you warm/cool/dry as necessary. Clothes should be hard-wearing and able to withstand getting on and off dusty vehicles and the odd rough surface. If you are going to the altiplano, wear thermals and warm clothes. You’ll need a rain jacket (year-round) as well as sunglasses. Bring sturdy shoes.

Sleeping

Bolivian accommodations are among South America’s cheapest, though price and value are hardly uniform. In the altiplano, having heat and hot water often makes the difference in price, while in lowland areas, air-con and fans are common delimiters.

Yellow-Fever Vaccination Certificates

Border agents may or may not request a yellow-fever vaccination certificate, but there are occasional checkpoints heading into the lowlands, where you will need to produce a certificate. Some neighboring countries, including Brazil, require anyone entering from Bolivia to have proof of a yellow-fever vaccination. If necessary, a jab can often be administered at the border but it is preferable to take care of this at home.

Bargaining

Gentle haggling is usually fine at markets, and some negotiation is common if arranging a service such as renting a taxi for a day. Use your judgement and decide if the price seems fair; attempts to bargain hard may become uncomfortable. Bear in mind that many Bolivians have very little money, and arguing over a dollar or two probably isn’t worth it.

Tipping

Restaurants Service is not usually included in the bill; leave 10% to 15%.

Tours Guides are grateful for tips (10% to 20% is the norm); remember that their wage is often much lower than the tour price.

Taxis Tipping is not expected, though it’s common to round up.

At the Mercado Negro in La Paz | DE AGOSTINI/G. SIOEN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Etiquette

Greetings A handshake is the most usual form of greeting. When meeting, people will usually say buenos días (good morning), buenas tardes (good afternoon) or buenas noches (good evening).

Forms of Address It is common to use señor/señora and the usted form of address (using usted and the corresponding verb forms rather than tú for the word ‘you’) with people you don’t know well. On the altiplano, some locals will use amigo/amiga, which is intended to show friendliness.

Photographs Ask permission to take photographs of people, especially in rural areas.

Politics It’s fine to express well-informed opinions, and Bolivians are generally happy to talk about their political views. Naturally, you should be tactful and avoid being overtly critical of the country.

Eating When passing a table of diners who are seated in a restaurant, it’s common to say buen provecho (enjoy your meal).

Eating

Long dismissed as the poor relation of South American cuisine, Bolivia is emerging as a foodie destination, with a string of highly-rated restaurants attracting acclaim. Variety adds to the appeal: Bolivia’s culinary scene is as diverse as its peoples and landscapes. Many traditional recipes used today have been passed down over generations, and fresh market produce, free-range livestock and local grains have long been in fashion here.

If You Like…

Adventure Sports

This Andean nation has kick-ass mountain biking, lost summits that have only seen a handful of ascents, ‘easy’ 6000m climbs for beginners, plus adrenaline-charged activities.

Climbing Step into this mountaineer’s dreamland with steep, glaciated peaks that see little traffic.

Mountain biking With elevation drops of 4000m, Bolivia offers some of the best mountain-bike descents in the world.

Paragliding Paragliding in Cordillera Real and Central Highlands (La Paz and Cochabamba) is as good as it gets.

Boating Take a flat-water Amazon cruise, troll Titicaca in a totora (reed) boat or power your way through white-water rock gardens.

History

History buffs will be spoiled for choice, with archaeological sites, well-preserved colonial cities, mystical cathedrals and missions to explore.

Sucre Bolivia’s white city is home to some of the nation’s best museums.

Potosí This colonial city fueled Bolivia’s economy for hundreds of years.

La Paz A wealth of museums are located in the country’s capital.

Tiwanaku Bolivia’s best-known pre-Inca ceremonial site has large ritual platforms, monoliths and a mysterious arch.

El Fuerte Hilltop ruins that hold the secrets of a number of peoples and cultures.

Jesuit Mission Circuit There’s a mystical air to the missions of the Chiquitania region outside Santa Cruz.

Wildlife Watching

Bolivia is a hands-down favorite for nature lovers and bird-watchers.

Parque Nacional Madidi The Amazon comes to you in Bolivia’s most well-known national park.

Parque Nacional Tunari Easily accessed wilderness area just outside Cochabamba.

Parque Nacional Amboró This national park is home to rare species, such as the spectacled bear, and is a bird-watcher’s paradise.

Parque Nacional Sajama The bleak landscape of Sajama is home to rheas, vicuñas and even some Andean wildcats.

Parque Nacional Carrasco Explore the cloud forest of this isolated park that’s full of mammals, reptiles and birds.

Valle de los Condores Spot condors gliding over and around high-altitude cliffs.

Trekking

For long-distance hauls and shorter day trips along ancient Inca paving, down cloud-encased valleys and through vast swaths of untamed wilderness, you can’t beat Bolivia’s treks.

El Choro Traversing Parque Nacional Cotopata, the Choro trek is the most popular trip around.

Takesi Unique cultural experiences await in the remote rural villages along this easily accessible option.

Yunga Cruz The most demanding of the Inca treks, this trip takes you over the shoulder of Illimani down into the warm climes of the Yungas.

Cordillera de los Frailes Immerse yourself in Jalq’a culture on this fun village-to-village trek outside Sucre.

Illimani | MTCURADO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Artisan Crafts

Take a little piece of Bolivia home with you: intricate textiles, witch’s talismans, high-quality silver, baskets, scarves, shawls and more.

Musical instruments For charangos (ukulele-like instruments) and those famous panpipes, head to La Paz’s Calle Sagárnaga.

Silver One of the country’s prime exports takes artistic form in the crafts shops of Potosí.

Ceramics Towns such as Huayculli specialize in unique ceramics, often with an Andean twist.

Weaving Head out to off-the-beaten-path villages like Candelaria and see some of the finest woven rugs around.

Woolen goods Scour the altiplano for scarves and sweaters made from alpaca, llama and even vicuña wool.

Charangos | BRENT WINEBRENNER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Art

Bolivia’s rich cultural heritage is evident in its diverse artworks.

Museo de Arte Indígena Displays art by indigenous groups in the Sucre area.

Museo Nacional del Arte This museum in La Paz focuses on religious themes.

Museos Universitarios Three separate halls housing colonial relics, anthropological artifacts and modern art.

Museo Casa Arte Taller Cardozo Velasquez The unique sculptures of this talented artist are displayed in his Oruro home.

La Capilla Sixtina del Altiplano The painted interior of this remote church has earned it the moniker: the ‘Sistine Chapel of the Andes.’

Salar Galería de Arte Bolivia’s top contemporary artists showcase their work here.

Mamani Mamani Gallery The colorful work of Roberto Mamani Mamani is displayed and sold in this gallery.

Santuario Mariano de la Torre Intricately carved wooden pillars, and a moving memorial.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria, February

Carnaval, February

Pujllay, March

La Festividad de Nuestro Señor Jesús del Gran Poder, May

Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos, July

January

Although part of summer, this is the rainiest month of the year, making getting around tough. Climbing is basically out of the question, but you could rough it on hikes and other outdoor activities.

z Día de los Reyes Magos

‘Kings’ Day’ (Epiphany) is celebrated on January 6 as the day the three wise kings visited baby Jesus after his birth. The largest celebrations are in Reyes (in the Beni region), Sucre, Tarija, and rural villages in the departments of Oruro, Cochabamba and Potosí.

z Alasitas

Taking place in La Paz and Copacabana on January 24 and for two weeks after, this giant fair celebrates Ekeko, the Aymará god of abundance, with stalls and street vendors selling miniatures of items people are longing for – tiny houses, cars, banknotes etc.

February

This wet and warm month sees important celebrations for Pachamama (Mother Earth), especially in traditional communities, with ceremonies and rituals taking place in her honor.

z Fiesta de La Virgen de Candelaria

This week-long festival is held during the first week of February in Aiquile (Cochabamba), Samaipata (Santa Cruz), Angostura (Tarija) and Cha’llapampa (Oruro). The biggest celebration kicks off on February 2 in Copacabana.

z Carnaval

Celebrations are held nationwide the week before Lent. Oruro is known for having the most colorful Carnaval fiesta; Santa Cruz, Sucre and Tarija follow suit. Carnaval dates change each year, depending on when Lent falls, so check your calendar.

March

The rain starts to taper off, making it slightly easier to get around. You could consider heading out for a trek or on a mountain bike. River rafting is getting good.

z Semana Santa

One of the most impressive of the Holy Week activities is the Good Friday fiesta in Copacabana, when hundreds of pilgrims arrive on foot. It’s a fun time across the country.

z Pujllay

Celebrated in Tarabuco on the second Sunday in March, indigenous people gather to mark the 1816 victory of local armies over Spanish troops with ritual dancing, song, music and chicha (fermented corn) drinking.

May

Winter is here! The weather is nice in the lowlands, but transit can still be a mess. The rains are nearly gone, and outdoor activity begins.

z Fiesta de la Cruz

The Festival of the Cross (May 3) brings revelry to Vallegrande (Santa Cruz), Cochabamba and Copacabana. Tinku ritual combats take place in rural communities around Potosí.

z Gran Poder

Held in late May or early June, La Festividad de Nuestro Señor Jesús del Gran Poder in La Paz involves candle processions, elaborate costumes and dancing.

June

It’s getting a little too cold for comfort in the altiplano, but the rains are basically gone. Transport in the lowlands should be getting easier and temperatures are cooling off.

z Willkakuti

On June 21, the Aymará celebrate the winter solstice – the return of the new sun – and their New Year. The biggest ceremony takes place overnight in Tiwanaku.

z San Juan

This Christian holiday is held nationwide (June 24), with bonfires, fireworks and traditional burning of wood. The largest celebrations take place around Santa Cruz, with firewalkers in the village of Porongo.

July

High season is in full swing. It’s dry and cold in the altiplano, cooler and drier in the lowlands, and just nice in the areas in between.

z Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos

Running from July 22 to the end of the month, this kick-ass festival is the biggest in Beni. Expect outrageous costumes, plenty of drinking and some hard partying.

z Fiesta del Señor Santiago

In Parque National Torotoro, villages celebrate the Fiesta del Señor Santiago with sheep sacrifices, dynamite explosions, colorful costumes and plenty of chicha.

August

It’s the height of the tourist season and starting to warm up a little in the altiplano, making it a good time to visit the Salar de Uyuni. Important religious and indigenous festivals also take place.

z Independence Day

This lively public holiday (August 6) sees lots of gunfire in the air and parades galore. It’s celebrated everywhere, but is especially boisterous in Copacabana.

z Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña

Folkloric musicians and dancers from around the country gather in Quillacollo near Cochabamba to perform in front of cheering, intoxicated crowds.

September

Some tourists head home, making this cool, dry time perfect to pick up deals. Conditions for adventure sports continue to be excellent, though expect a slight increase in rain.

z Fiesta de San Roque

One of Tarija’s biggest celebrations, San Roque marks the end of the plague and leprosy in the area. It kicks off on August 16, but most of the celebrations begin on the first Sunday of September, lasting eight days.

October

At the end of winter (and the high season), rainfall spikes in the lowlands, while it’s still relatively tolerable in the altiplano. Deals can be had, but it’s getting tougher to climb, trek and generally be outdoors. It’ll stay rainy until April.

3 Feria del Charango

For over 30 years, charanguistas (people who play the charango) from around the globe have come by the thousands to the little burg of Aiquile, four hours from Cochabamba, to get their 10-string groove on.

December

One of the hottest months of the year in the lowlands, with humid days and warm nights. The rain continues in the altiplano and tours may not be possible.

z New Year’s Eve

Street vendors sell underwear before January 1. Red will help your love life, with yellow for money and pink for health. When the gongs chime at midnight, 12 grapes are swallowed for good luck. Fake money is counted to signal wealth in the new year.

Itineraries

Best of Bolivia

2 WEEKS

This bare-bones itinerary will take you to the best of Bolivia – from colorful markets to stark salt plains to a city in the sky – at a head-rattling pace.

Start with a day of acclimatization in La Paz, visiting the markets. History buffs can take a side trip to Tiwanaku. From La Paz, head to Lake Titicaca. Allow up to three days on the lake to take in the sites of Copacabana and Isla del Sol and continue acclimatization. From there, circle down the altiplano (via La Paz) to the Salar de Uyuni for a bone-chatteringly cold three-day jeep tour. Extend your trip to the former territory of Butch Cassidy in the pleasant cowboy town of Tupiza.

Swing up to Potosí, a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m, where you can visit the mint and mines. After a day or two, head to the white city of Sucre to hang out with students in grand plazas. Return to La Paz via Cochabamba, taking in the views along the way. On your last day in La Paz, consider a day of museum-hopping or take a mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico.

At the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe | RAFAL CICHAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Altiplano Highlights

1 WEEK

With one week to play with, this itinerary allows time to get a taste of life in an Andean city and take in the awe-inspiring scenery of the Salar de Uyuni.

Fly into La Paz and spend two days exploring the city’s museums and galleries while you acclimatize. Soak in the atmosphere of the Andean markets, dine at La Paz’s excellent restaurants, and dip into the city’s coffee and bar scene. Zip up in the teleférico to see the unusual architecture of the neighborhood of El Alto, then visit a peña (folk-music venue) in La Paz’s Casco Viejo neighborhood. If you have time, consider a day trip to see the ruins at Tiwanaku, where you’ll find carved monoliths, archways and arcades, and two museums. From La Paz, take a flight to Uyuni to pick up a three-day jeep tour to the salar (salt desert). Get your camera and your plastic dinosaur ready for photos that play with perspective on the endless white crusty surface of the salt flats, and for snaps of spectacular sunsets. Brave the cold to gaze at the stars in the dark night sky.

Continue via the colored lakes of Los Lípez, with stops to spot flighty flamingos and geysers, and to take a dip in some thermal springs, before looping back through the otherworldly landscape of the Desierto de Dalí to Uyuni. If you can cope with the altitude, consider adding a volcano climb to your itinerary; custom tours can include a hike up Volcán Licancabur (5960m) or Volcán Tunupa (5432m). Spend a night in Uyuni to rest after the tour, before catching a bus to Potosí. Take a day or two to wander the streets and check out the city’s museums and mines. If you have time, take the bus back to La Paz, breaking the journey in Oruro. This gritty mining city has some quirky museums and there are opportunities for day trips to neighboring villages. Alternatively, catch a flight from Potosí to La Paz.

Itineraries

The Whole Country

5 WEEKS

Set aside five weeks to acclimatize to the high altitude, take in one of Bolivia’s signature treks, climb a peak, do a mountain-bike trip or simply dive into Bolivian culture.

From La Paz you can choose from a variety of day trips, including a visit to Tiwanaku or hiking in nearby Chacaltaya or Valle de la Luna. The adventurous can take on the Takesi or Choro treks, or ride a bike (or bus) down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico in the Yungas. Next head north to Rurrenabaque and the famous Parque Nacional Madidi – depending on your time and budget you can get here by land, air or boat. Take the time to explore this wild, little-trodden utopia. From ‘Rurre,’ take a bus to Trinidad, where you can kick back for a few days, eating river fish and seeing a museum or two, before heading by plane or bus to Santa Cruz. From here you’ll kick off a multiday road trip through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, curling back around via Santa Cruz to the unique ruins near the hippie village of Samaipata and the spectacular Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. Head up to Cochabamba for good market buys. From there you’ll start gaining some altitude as you pass through the culturally charged towns of Sucre and Potosí. After you’ve had your fill of these colonial masterpieces, cruise down to wine country near Tarija for a few days of warm weather, wine and chilled-to-perfection zen. You can then loop across to Tupiza for a day or two of mountain biking, while you arrange your four-day Salar de Uyuni trip, going the back way to avoid the crowds. On the way back toward La Paz, adventurous spirits may wish to stop near Curahuara de Carangas, before heading on to the high-plains wonderland of Parque Nacional Sajama, where hot springs and wildlife watching await.

If you still have time, continue through La Paz to Copacabana for a day or two of beachfront fun on Lake Titicaca. Cruise over on the ferry, stopping at Isla de la Luna for an afternoon on your way to Isla del Sol. It’d be easy to spend five days here, trekking to lost valleys, ruins and small indigenous villages.

Parque Nacional Sajama | JOHANNLOURENS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

Exploring the Amazon

4 WEEKS

More than half of Bolivia’s territory lies in the Amazon, and yet this is one of the least visited parts of the country. Waterway adventures here are good (and wet) in the rainy season, but if you plan on any type of road travel you should stick with the dry months.

Start in Santa Cruz, a sophisticated and cosmopolitan city with a dreamy (sometimes steamy) climate and tropical atmosphere. Dip into the urban culture for a while and party with the rich kids in the discotecas, or take a day trip to nearby gardens or waterfalls. From here fly or catch the overnight bus to Trinidad, a growing town with a pretty plaza. Stay in town for a bit, whirl around on a motorcycle for a local fish meal, take a visit to a museum or two and have a much-needed siesta or three – it gets hot.

A three-hour bus ride will take you to the Jesuit mission village of San Ignacio de Moxos – if possible, plan your trip around the town’s colorful, not-to-be-missed festival in July. From here, wildlife watchers should make a detour via El Porvenir into Reserva de la Biosféra Estación Biológica del Beni, where the trained eye can spot up to 500 unique species of birds, including a cornucopia of herons and egrets, along with prayerful cormorants, with wings spread in apparent supplication. There are around 100 different mammals in the reserve, which is also home to the Chimane tribe.

It’s a long slog from here via San Borja to Rurrenabaque, hammock country, from where you can set out for a couple of days on a jungle or pampas tour. One option is to get your jungle fill at the San Miguel del Bala ecoresort, just upriver from Rurrenabaque. Whatever you do, don’t miss a trip to Parque Nacional Madidi. Bolivia’s best-known national park offers a week’s- or a lifetime’s-worth of adventures in over 1.8 million hectares. The park’s remarkable biodiversity is best enjoyed at a slow pace and you should leave enough time to stay in the highly regarded, community-run Chalalán Ecolodge.

Itineraries

The Cordilleras & Yungas

2 WEEKS

Trapped between the heights of the Andes and the Amazon, this fascinating area is a trekking, climbing, hiking and biking wonderland.

Getting here is half the fun. Trekkers can start from outside La Paz, traveling by foot via the Takesi or Choro treks into the heart of the Yungas. You can also get into the Southern Yungas on a butt-busting daylong mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road. Be sure to spend a few days at the end of your descent in the pleasant Yungas villages of Coroico or Chulumani, both of which offer plenty of day hikes, swimming options and a chilled-out traveler vibe. From there, it’s back to the capital and on to climbing and trekking in the Cordillera Real, stopping in the cool-air, soft-spirited Andean town of Sorata. Adventurers could take on any number of treks from Sorata. There are also good mountain-bike adventures or you can head up to the glaciated peaks of the Cordillera. If you have the time, extend your journey to the seldom-visited Cordillera Apolobamba for visits with lost tribes, wildcat miners and loads of deep wilderness trekking.

Itineraries

Southeast Bolivia

3 WEEKS

This trip will get you away from the main tourist track and into Bolivia’s warm southern comforts. Along the way, there are a few hiking options, interesting cultural centers and energetic cityscapes.

Start with a few days of partying in Santa Cruz, Bolivia’s second city. It’s great fun just wandering around the streets as you soak up camba (lowland) culture. Next make your way out of the city for a week-long dusty adventure through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, a series of beautiful missions where baroque music and faith meld with the chilled-out culture of the Guaraní. Cruise back through Santa Cruz on your way to the pre-Inca ruins at Samaipata and wildlife watching at Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. From the park (backtracking via Samaipata and Santa Cruz), make your way down to the relaxed wine-country town of Tarija. After a few days in town, you can customize the tail end of your adventure, with hikes along the Inca Trail in the Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama or in any of the numerous national parks and reserves unique to the Chaco region.

Plan Your Trip

Bolivia Outdoors

Bolivia is like a theme park for grown-up adventurers. It offers multiday treks, relatively easy day hikes, mountain biking that’ll leave your teeth chattering, climbs to lost Andean peaks, rivers for rafting and rugged 4WD journeys over stones that once paved the Inca empire.

Bolivia’s Best…

Trekking

El Choro Two- or three-day classic through the Cordillera Real.

Takesi Bolivia’s Inca Trail passes small villages on a two-day journey.

Yunga Cruz Five- or six-day thigh buster in the Yungas.

Valle de los Condores Two- to four-day treks near Tarija.

Biking

World’s Most Dangerous Road Classic mountain-biking adventure.

Zongo Valley Experts only at this downhill mecca.

Sorata Less traveled, with more single track.

La Paz Get steep near Chacaltaya and the Zona Sur.

Climbing

Huayna Potosí Good for beginners, but certainly no cakewalk.

Volcán Sajama A popular climb, but altitude and ice pose challenges.

Cordillera Apolobamba Far from civilization, this is where adventure begins.

When to Go

Dry season (May through October) makes for safer climbs, drier bike trails and easier hikes. Plan to get wet (and muddy) the rest of the year.

Hiking & Trekking

Hiking and trekking are arguably the most rewarding Andean activities. Add a porter, llama train and experienced guide, and you have all the makings for a grand adventure. Some of the most popular hikes and treks begin near La Paz, traverse the Cordillera Real along ancient Inca routes and end in the Yungas, including the well-known El Choro, Takesi and Yunga Cruz treks.

Sorata is a hiker’s dream come true, offering a variety of options from don’t-leave-home-without-a-machete-type hikes to more pleasant walks on Inca trails surrounding the Illampu Massif. The Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional (Anmin) Apolobamba, which includes the four- to five-day Lagunillas to Agua Blanca trek, is becoming more popular, but is best visited with a local guide.

Near Tarija, two- to four-day treks through the Valle de los Condores offer spectacular bird-watching as well as walking.

National parks are also paradise for hikers, with hiking opportunities in Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró and Parque Nacional Sajama. A few hikes outside Charazani are worth checking out.

For a shorter jaunt, hire a guide and cruise the cultural and historic sites and hot springs around Cordillera de los Frailes outside Sucre or visit Refugio los Volcánes near Samaipata.

Many treks can be done by experienced outdoors travelers without a guide (you should know how to use a map, compass and GPS, how to build a fire – even in the rain – and how to open a bottle of wine with a pocket knife). Nevertheless, hiring a guide provides an added level of security. No matter what, check out the security situation before heading out.

Termas de Polques hot springs | DELPIXEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mountaineering & Climbing

Staying Safe

Dangers include getting lost, avalanches, crevasses, snow blindness, dehydration, altitude sickness and occasional muggings on the way up. Be careful in hiring your guide, buy mountaineering insurance, drink lots of water, protect your skin, dress properly and wear sunglasses. Altitude sickness is a very real thing – watch for signs of fatigue, dizziness and nausea. Proper acclimatization and hydration will help. If you think you are getting sick, head down.

Socorro Andino Bolivia provides rescue assistance if you need help.

Hiring a Guide

Many travel agencies in La Paz and larger cities organize climbing and trekking trips in the Cordillera Real and other areas. Not all, however, are everything they claim to be. Some guides have gotten lost, several have died, and others have practiced less-than-professional tactics, such as stringing 10 or more climbers on the same rope. Always do your research and go with professionally accredited guides such as those registered with the Asociación de Guias de Montaña (www.agmtb.org), an internationally certified association of registered mountain guides. They’re more expensive, but it’s worth the cost.

In choosing an agency, ask to see the equipment you will be using and meet the guide. If harnesses are worn, double boots are broken down or the ropes are frayed, demand they be replaced. Talk with the guide and make sure you feel comfortable with him or her. When you hit the mountain, the guide should teach you how to travel on a rope (two people and a guide per rope, no more) and self-arrest with your ice axe.

Agencies can provide almost everything you will need – from just organizing transportation to a full service with guide, cook, mules, porters, an itinerary and so forth – but you should bring warm clothes (avoid cotton and stick to wool or synthetics), a headlamp and extra batteries, plenty of water and snacks. The guides will generally prepare three meals a day.

Professional trekking guides generally charge US$60 to US$80 per day (plus food).

Mountaineering in the Andes | JERRY DODRILL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Maps

Historically, maps of Bolivian climbing areas have been poor in quality and difficult to obtain. Even now, elevations of peaks are murky, with reported altitudes varying as much as 600m – it seems the rumor that Ancohuma is taller than Argentina’s Aconcagua won’t die.

Maps are available from Los Amigos del Libro in La Paz and Santa Cruz, and from some bookstores. In La Paz try the trekking agents and tourist shops along Sagárnaga.

The Travel Map of Bolivia, one of the best country maps, and New Map of the Cordillera Real, which shows mountains, roads and precolonial routes, are published by O’Brien Cartographics. They are out of print, but still available at various tourist hangouts, including the postcard kiosks within La Paz’s Central Post Office.

Government 1:50,000 topographical and specialty sheets are available from the Instituto Geográfico Militar (IGM), which has offices in most major cities, including a branch in La Paz.

Walter Guzmán Córdova has produced 1:50,000 colorful contour maps of El Choro–Takesi–Yunga Cruz, Mururata–Illimani, Huayna Potosí–Condoriri and Sajama, but those other than El Choro–Takesi–Yunga Cruz map are in short supply. The Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club) produces the excellent and accurate 1:50,000 maps Alpenvereinskarte Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu), which includes the Sorata area, and Alpenvereinskarte Cordillera Real Süd (Illimani), which centers on Illimani.

RESPONSIBLE TREKKING

To help preserve the ecology and beauty of Bolivia, consider the following tips when trekking.

Carry out your rubbish OK, so many tracks in Bolivia are already littered, but this doesn’t mean that you should add to the problem.

Never bury your rubbish Digging disturbs soil and ground cover, and causes erosion; foreign matter affects local wildlife and may take years to rot.

Keep water sources clean Contamination of water sources by human feces can lead to the transmission of all sorts of nasties. Where there is a toilet, use it; where there is none, best practice is to carry waste out. If you decide to bury it, dig a deep hole away from water sources. Additionally, don’t use detergents or toothpaste in or near watercourses.

Stick to existing trails Avoid cutting corners – it contributes to erosion.

Don’t depend on open fires for cooking Cook on a lightweight kerosene, alcohol or Shellite (white-gas) stove and avoid those powered by disposable butane-gas canisters. Continuous cutting of wood by local communities and trekkers can cause deforestation, plus wildfire risks.

Do not feed the wildlife It can lead to animals becoming dependent on handouts, unbalanced populations and disease.

Always seek permission to camp Ask in the village where you can camp overnight.

Guidebooks

The best mountaineering guide is Bolivia: A Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain; the late author worked as a climbing guide in La Paz and also served as secretary of the Club Andino Boliviano. The Andes of Bolivia by Alain Mesili is available in English.